I love my s type. Unfortunately their is very little information available on replacement of components and things to look for. Great video giving solid info. Please make more
Really good summary video. I have an ‘04 V8 automatic and have dealt with many of these same maintenance issues. I was able to repair the burnt traces on my climate control module with a few basic soldered jumper wires. When I removed the pcb board from the dash unit it was visually obvious where the damaged traces were.
I wish I was so lucky! My ACCM board measured bad but I couldn't find any burnt traces so I had to get a replacement. I'm guessing one of the components on my board burnt out. Glad you found the video helpful!
Excellent and very informative video! Thank you so much for making this video. I have a 2000 S Type 4.0, and have that clunking worn out bushing sound, but I heat it in the front, not so much the rear. Do you know if there are bushings in the front? Please make a video on installing the bushings. Than you again.
03 onwards. Water from the scuttle is managed by dumping it into the V6. The plugs and coils get destroyed, misfires destroy the cats. Fix it by fitting a shield over the brace/under the scuttle at the back of the engine to divert the water feature. Thin aluminium is fine and easy enough to pop holes in and form so it doesn't rattle. It was a bad choice to decide the water would evaporate under the coils,it gets in at the back. Eventually the rocker cover also gets destroyed and the channels under the coils look like the inside of an alloy hot water tank. The drain point is at the centre wiper, it's not a seal, neither is the rubber along the windscreen lower edge. Good luck out there, I have the early 4.0 which has different issues.
I have a 2002 S 4.0 bought new in airconditioned garage with 13k miles. I have just begun with repairs starting with the rear suspension bushing. Thank you, Capt Dan
Great video. Fantastic advice. I have had several of these problems including the fuel pump and the misfire. When I retrofitted sat nav, I wired inline fuses to protect the (remote) climate control module from a failed climate control valve.
That’s the self-leveling gears for the headlights. You can get aftermarket metal gears and replace it yourself ⚙️ . Jaguar don’t have the gears available, and will only sell you the whole headlight.
Appreciate the video. Spot on btw. I bought one, replaced the transmission filter, replaced majority of the suspension (bushings), and O2 sensors. Specialty shops will charge $$$. It’s the OEM parts that cost so much, plus some of the knockoffs don’t mix well. Once again great video.
Firstly I thank this man since these are reliabe cars really and only a few problems arise - And problem is that Original Jag parts are mostly expensive complete assemblies. 'Bushes for example, not available individually. But my reason for writing is the climate control heater valve and the leak caused by water (not short circuit) caused by water ingress when the rubber seal failes. A short circuit would be better since it would just blow the fues. This current leak happens ONLY if someone has replaced the heater valve with one of many cheap once on E Bay. The reason is that the original has the solenoides completely encapsulated inside moulded plastic which makes it impossible for water to reach them and draw more current (higher load) on the circuit board. So you need to buy Bosch or Motocraft. The rest are no good. Pure water is really a complete insulator. But water in cars are full of aditives and impuriies. The current draw of each solenoid (it has two, one for left and one for right heatin) i maximum 1 amp - typically less. The current goes up whe water reaches the terminals but not enough to blow the fuse - and this overloads the printed circuit lines you see on the circuit board and you will notice that the line on the circuit board burns out at its weakest point. That is why some say they can repair it by connecting the break in the line with a jumper soldered wire. And this is why the S ype has the reputation of unreliable climae control. The core of the problem is a cheap replacement part. so if you are lucky and the Jag still has the original valve, there is now a reconditioning kit for it, to replace the washer and new plungers since like I said the original electrical solenoids are sealed and never need replacing. There is one thing I need to add which explains why when this fails - heat goes to full ON and it is unbearabe. Solenoids ON - ie 12 volts reaches the solenoids = closed position - no heat. So when a tiny line on the circuit board burns out - the 12 volts do not reach the solenoind and so you get full heat. Good idea for the UK and cold countries - since these would be OFF position most of the time, to heat the car. But not for hot countries - they would be ON most of the time.
Great video. I had some body work carried out last week, after watching you video I think that I should have brought those 'Magic beans' from the old lady outside the bodywork shop.
Thanks for making this seriously aware video about the top 10 problems of this beautiful beast/S-Type. After your crystal clear explanation, everything is boiling down to one question: Should Jaguar lovers (not mechanics) buy this S-Type?
Great video. Did you ever make the rear suspension bushings video? I’m having g that issue and a video would be helpful. Also have a failed power steering high pressure line if you have a video on that.
I had similar problem with my ac/heating system but the source of the problem was 2 evaporator temperature sensors. I changed them and my problem has gone. Misfire codes can come out due to clogged injectors too. I never had water leaking problems but once after i went through the carwash i got a code for the knock sensor. It was the upper one because water can reach the sensor due to bad design. Jaguar has recognized the problem and they made a technical bullet in with a sealing patch. The patch has a part number. Got mine fixed and everything was fine. I had the 6 spd ZF automatic transmission and it was very fast and problem free. Although i had changed my fluid and i sourced the oem kit for the fluid change. I constantly spent onto my car but in exchange it has always started and has never stopped on the road. There was always somekind of problems but they were mostly electrical problems. I got to know this car very well. The aftermarket parts are not fitting and this is pretty much true in almost every cases. I meet with this problem 2 times ( front wheel hub bearing assembly and the break booster).The electric park break is a cool thing i loved it and never had problems with it.
You're the man. I have a 2000 s type and I stalled out on a highway ramp. Finally got it started again and my mechanic said it was the alternator. Still having the problem after a new alternator. It has a rough idle. Sometimes when I hit the gas it it cuts out. And it stalls every once in a while. I have an engine light on. Also my traction fault is on and recently the airbag light goes on Sometimes. Smh. Any idea where to start?
rough idle might mean bad spark plugs/coils,, with the airbag light ive heard a cable on the steering wheel mounted one can get bad over time (read it in a forum as ive recently gotten a airbag light too)
2000 MODEL Rough idle - CHANGE 'PCV VALVE ' rubber tube , located at top rear of motor. DIY #$50 . workshop > $350. Re traction fault. I have same problem. I just ignore it.
THX! rly I have owned the car for half a year, I am absolutely in love with its spirit - in your video I noticed a couple of sores that apparently are in my car. Thank you!
A great video - clear and precise. I have a 2003 S-Type R w 195.5 K miles.- many of the problems you mention are the same on the S/C car. I have some of the common problems - 1. No control of the climate control system - mine runs hot all the time. I've been told my heater core is is blocked and condenser too -they said the upper and lower fittings did not match etc. but shop did not look at the CCV - so a video on this would be great if it doesn't already exist (I'm new to your channel). 2. I just developed a very loud squealing serpentine belt upon start-up and it stays until the part (or car) gets warmed up. There was a TSB on this problem which involved replacing several pulleys - and on my car perhaps the S/C belt and pulley. A video on this would be helpful.
Great Video. I have previously owned 2 3.0 SE's and now own an R. Have experienced most of these issues at one time or another along the way. Another problem ALL of my S-Types suffered from is annoying front suspension knocking caused by worn front anti-roll bar (sway) bushes. Due to the way Jaguar designed the car, its a pain to replace them but you don't need to remove the subframe as per the Jaguar process. Need to tackle from inside the engine bay, remove the expansion tank, all hoses at the front (disconnect and move out of the way using bungie cords as appropriate), the heater valve, Intercooler pump (R only) etc and be creative with socket extensions and UJ's. You will of course still need to get under the car to remove the U clamps, bushes and re-install etc. I replaced with Powerflex on my R so I never have to do the job again as well as the drop links to complete the job as the extra cost is low and the R is a keeper.
@@vine6005 It varies. My R only had 44k odd on it, that was around a year ago. Cannot remember on my 2 SE's but they were +60k. So its age as the rubber dries and breaks up, not just mileage.
Thanks for the video! I hope you see my question... I have a jaguar stype 4.0 From the year 2001 I have a vibration in the steering wheel between 100-120 kmh, sometimes it is more noticeable, other times less... change brake discs, brake pads... tires, but the vibration persists, any advice? thanks from Barcelona Spain!
Thank you for sharing these videos and information. I would like some insight and help with regards to my 2005 jaguar S type. The car set around not being used for at least four months, I put a new battery in last night. I drove it around for about 45 minutes. I parked the car and then the alarm and horn started going off on its own. Any suggested help is welcome without having to pull the fuse out. Lol.
You need to recalibrate both ignition keys with the car safety system this is what happens when you change the battery and the you lock the door after...it is a simple procedure,go look on internet or manual book
So I had automatic transmission and it died, I changed it to manual I put manual gearbox in 3.0 and now it’s asking to change gears on 3000-3500rpm and if you don’t change gear it doesn’t goes for more rpm, and what it could be what should I change do u have any clue bro? thx.
My wife drove our s-type hot, oil doesn't smell burnt. I replaced thermostat, im not sure if I'm not burping it right or what, I have no heat into the cab I decided it was water pump not moving the coolant being it's cheap and a easy swap I did it, nothing changed. I see the valve you showed and wanted to know if that could be my problem, temp gauge was at middle and held put you could tell it was over heating so coolant is not getting to sensor. Thx for your time
Weldone for your good job here, i really appreciate this, please on the transmission part, can you do a video of how to replace those transmission leakages, the throbearing, and transmission mount.
Excellent summary. I have a 2004 Jaguar S-Type 6 cyl . I have had a Performance Restriction for months now. It runs great but it bucks when I try to accelerate quickly. I also have water in the passenger floor mat after heavy rain. Could the PCM be damaged like you mentioned?
I to had an '03 S-Type 3.0 with the Auto Trans. Got over 200k miles out of it before catastrophic failure claimed it. But it still ran like a champ and I got 27 mpg Highway @ 80+ miles per hour. Would probably still be driving it if it had the Millenial anti-theft device, LOL! Ford did an outstanding job making that car better than Jaguar ever did and when I wasn't driving that car to work I was driving a Crown Vic at work. The performance differences between it and a crown vic with the P71 police package were almost identical, except the Jag got much better MPG on the highway. I drive a Honda Accord now and absolutely love it, I was able to find a 7th gen. with the Millennial anti-theft device, and haven't looked back, LOL!
I had problems with the electronic handbrake every winter...it didn't like the cold.!! Made the sounder constantly go beep beep beep..it was the module that sits on top of the rear axle failing..got one from an XJ6 and so far it's been ok since.. £90
TY brother, I have a question. Now I have a problem with cold start. I change the fuel pump battery and the problem is the same. What can be? when hot it starts me the first time
My 2003 S-Type 4.2l has been the best car I ever owned. Bought it used in 2010 do all of my own maintenance and so far has been great. Replaced the rear control arm bushings and heater valve and a few coils but that's to be expected with 165,000 mile car. I'll run it until she dies and now that I'm retired and don't drive it much it should last even longer than expected. Have you ever experienced a failed Beck/Arnley PVC valve that's only a few months old? My car puffs occasional blue smoke on start up but not all the time, or when idling, or on the highway, or all the time. It's so intermittent that I think it's the PCV I bought this past August. Thoughts?
I need some help/recommendations. With the ignition cylinder not working right (cat system fault error nothing works, speedometer, milage, suspension(only the rpm) works). I have to flip the key or get it in just right to work or mess with the hazard/rest clear/trip buttons to work.
hello there, I like your video. I have a 2002 s type sport, that has been sitting in my garage for past 6 years with discounted battery. when I went to start it, I shows a message ' engine fail-safe ' it turns over, but won't fire up. any idea what it could be ? cheers.
FYI - drooping headlights is an issue on both HID and standard headlights. The adjusters are not robust or strong enough to withstand the downward force exerted on the lights when you hit the front edge of a pothole, causing them to break. They are very poorly designed.
I have an issue with a secondary air pump valve. It’s giving me the code P2442, I was wondering if there is anything you could give me advice on. I ordered the part and want to replace it myself, but I cannot even find the piece under the hood, and there are no videos or information about it. Thank you
I have a s type 4.2 2003 101K miles. When i go up from the lowest gear on any side of the J gate shifter between the lowest gear and second the car makes a slight thud and triggers a gearbox fault then the car goes into limp mode. I pull over wait a minute restart the car and its fine. It doesn't do it all the time but sometimes 4 or 5 times a day. It doesn't do it in any other gear. I live pretty rural and no one here even wants to try and fix it. Online jag guy said it could be the coil for if it back fires there is a signal sent to the gearbox for the fault to protect the engine ...but other say its the tranny...Any Ideas? Thanks
Had it ever any fluid changes for the gearbox? Usually they never change the fluid for them as they were marketed as needing basically no service, which is a lie lmao
and by your description it would not be a misfire but a gearbox fault. A usualy misfire would make your car burn more gas when stationary give you less performance etc
That's a silly question ! Anything could jump out and destroy your wallet anytime. You can do your own maintenance if your a competent DIY'er , If you are tight with money, STAY AWAY., especially early 2000 model onwards. (S-Types) . Note: ALL RUBBERS perish over time even on Rolls Royce, Prestige prices then come into play to repair.
Hi, the oil light in my dashboard keeps illuminating, i changed the oil and the light is still illuminating intermittently. What shall i do? I drive a 2007 S Type car 3.0
Hello, can you help me? I have a 2000 S-Type V6 3.0 that has a problem, it cuts off the engine when you step on the accelerator.You can drive all day with it but you just can't press the gas when you do that it cuts the engine. You have to accelerate gradually, smoothly. What could it be? The scanner showed a problem with the accelerator pedal sensor and also the throttle body, we have already replaced both and the problem persists...please help me.
I drive a 2000 Rover 75 KV6 with 53000 miles on the odometer and was considering buying a Type S with it. But now that I hear these 10 issues, I think I'm limiting myself to just one car with these kind of maintenance issues. But you never know.
Alarm bell: not the standard sound from open-door or back-up sensor. Softly repeats 5 times, then pause, then 5 dings, then pause, finally goes away after repeating 3 times.
Don't understand your problem, For starters 'throttle body sensor' is not a 'sensor', it's sole purpose is to 'fly by wire' the accelerator pedal. Can be sent for re calibration as to buying a new one, you will have to mortgage your house
Interessante e ben spiegato complimenti. Da parte mia segnalo un doppio problema su Jaguar s-type executive 2.7d automatico a macchina ferma con motore spento si inserisce il climatizzatore e si deve intervenire con accensione motore per eliminare il problema poi anche dopo spegnimento del motore si sente un gorgoglio come acqua in ebollizione
Hi I have a jaguar stype 2004 and the other day I got a park brake fault code which cause my car to go into limp mode I tried looking it up and it said if my battery is bad that means it's not giving enough voltage to the electric park brake so I had my battery checked and AutoZone said it was bad so I had a new one put in then I drove from sam's club and it came back on then later I got a check engine light which said tps or throttle body sensor code I checked with my scan tool so now I got two issues 😭😭😭
I wish to say to Jag on a Budget, that I have pictures of the Bosch and Motocrat sealed solenoids and what those cheap once on ebay look like. I can send you copies if you wish o add them to this video. And yes, the AC system is not just complex - it uses a system which is no conventioal - if the cooling give problems - give it to someone that knows how the cooling works ( a part time technician that has Jag experience) since it is not conventional at all.
I have a 2007 3.0. Aircon gassed and runs cold only when Revs are above about 1500rpm… turns into a furnace at traffic lights…. Electrical? Valve? Clutch on compressor? … please help I’m melting in traffic.
Your car is an early 1999-2003 car, so I am surprised that you did not mention front suspension nor window regulators, both of which are problematic and were replaced on the later 2004-07 cars, which are more reliable than the BMW E60 5-series with which they competed. Failure-prone factory 4-litre cam chain tensioners and the pathetic Ford transmission on the early automatic v6 should also be mentioned.
I’d love to see a video on replacing the rear control arm bushings. Good video, Thanks
Thank you so much! The world needs people like you !
I love my s type. Unfortunately their is very little information available on replacement of components and things to look for. Great video giving solid info. Please make more
Need any parts I'm breaking one
Really good summary video. I have an ‘04 V8 automatic and have dealt with many of these same maintenance issues. I was able to repair the burnt traces on my climate control module with a few basic soldered jumper wires. When I removed the pcb board from the dash unit it was visually obvious where the damaged traces were.
I wish I was so lucky! My ACCM board measured bad but I couldn't find any burnt traces so I had to get a replacement. I'm guessing one of the components on my board burnt out. Glad you found the video helpful!
Excellent and very informative video! Thank you so much for making this video. I have a 2000 S Type 4.0, and have that clunking worn out bushing sound, but I heat it in the front, not so much the rear. Do you know if there are bushings in the front? Please make a video on installing the bushings. Than you again.
Dude, FANTASTIC information. Seriously, these tips are life savers.
03 onwards.
Water from the scuttle is managed by dumping it into the V6.
The plugs and coils get destroyed, misfires destroy the cats.
Fix it by fitting a shield over the brace/under the scuttle at the back of the engine to divert the water feature.
Thin aluminium is fine and easy enough to pop holes in and form so it doesn't rattle.
It was a bad choice to decide the water would evaporate under the coils,it gets in at the back.
Eventually the rocker cover also gets destroyed and the channels under the coils look like the inside of an alloy hot water tank.
The drain point is at the centre wiper, it's not a seal, neither is the rubber along the windscreen lower edge.
Good luck out there, I have the early 4.0 which has different issues.
I have a 2002 S 4.0 bought new in airconditioned garage with 13k miles. I have just begun with repairs starting with the rear suspension bushing. Thank you, Capt Dan
Great video. Fantastic advice. I have had several of these problems including the fuel pump and the misfire.
When I retrofitted sat nav, I wired inline fuses to protect the (remote) climate control module from a failed climate control valve.
A very competent mechanic in easy understanding way!
Spot on, would also add drooping headlights and headliner adhesive failing
That’s the self-leveling gears for the headlights. You can get aftermarket metal gears and replace it yourself ⚙️ .
Jaguar don’t have the gears available, and will only sell you the whole headlight.
I never liked that model, but i had it once and I fell in love. Waiting for more vids.
Thank you!!! Great advice on caring for the S-Type.
Appreciate the video. Spot on btw. I bought one, replaced the transmission filter, replaced majority of the suspension (bushings), and O2 sensors. Specialty shops will charge $$$. It’s the OEM parts that cost so much, plus some of the knockoffs don’t mix well. Once again great video.
I'm so glad that we can find such a nice and beneficial content related to Jaguar S-Type
Thank you and keep going 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
This is a great video and Thank you. I am considering buying a 2004 S-Type tomorrow. This is helpful to quiet my fears of being a Jaguar owner...
Firstly I thank this man since these are reliabe cars really and only a few problems arise - And problem is that Original Jag parts are mostly expensive complete assemblies. 'Bushes for example, not available individually. But my reason for writing is the climate control heater valve and the leak caused by water (not short circuit) caused by water ingress when the rubber seal failes. A short circuit would be better since it would just blow the fues. This current leak happens ONLY if someone has replaced the heater valve with one of many cheap once on E Bay. The reason is that the original has the solenoides completely encapsulated inside moulded plastic which makes it impossible for water to reach them and draw more current (higher load) on the circuit board. So you need to buy Bosch or Motocraft. The rest are no good. Pure water is really a complete insulator. But water in cars are full of aditives and impuriies. The current draw of each solenoid (it has two, one for left and one for right heatin) i maximum 1 amp - typically less. The current goes up whe water reaches the terminals but not enough to blow the fuse - and this overloads the printed circuit lines you see on the circuit board and you will notice that the line on the circuit board burns out at its weakest point. That is why some say they can repair it by connecting the break in the line with a jumper soldered wire. And this is why the S ype has the reputation of unreliable climae control. The core of the problem is a cheap replacement part. so if you are lucky and the Jag still has the original valve, there is now a reconditioning kit for it, to replace the washer and new plungers since like I said the original electrical solenoids are sealed and never need replacing. There is one thing I need to add which explains why when this fails - heat goes to full ON and it is unbearabe. Solenoids ON - ie 12 volts reaches the solenoids = closed position - no heat. So when a tiny line on the circuit board burns out - the 12 volts do not reach the solenoind and so you get full heat. Good idea for the UK and cold countries - since these would be OFF position most of the time, to heat the car. But not for hot countries - they would be ON most of the time.
Great video. I had some body work carried out last week, after watching you video I think that I should have brought those 'Magic beans' from the old lady outside the bodywork shop.
I would like to know more about how to repair the headlight issue with a 50 cent screw. Thanks!
Absolutely love to see that video. You’re the best. Really helped me
Thanks for making this seriously aware video about the top 10 problems of this beautiful beast/S-Type. After your crystal clear explanation, everything is boiling down to one question: Should Jaguar lovers (not mechanics) buy this S-Type?
A video like the one you just did, but for a 1999 S Type v8 4.0 would be super helpful! Thanks bro. 🇬🇧
Great video. Did you ever make the rear suspension bushings video? I’m having g that issue and a video would be helpful. Also have a failed power steering high pressure line if you have a video on that.
I had similar problem with my ac/heating system but the source of the problem was 2 evaporator temperature sensors. I changed them and my problem has gone. Misfire codes can come out due to clogged injectors too. I never had water leaking problems but once after i went through the carwash i got a code for the knock sensor. It was the upper one because water can reach the sensor due to bad design. Jaguar has recognized the problem and they made a technical bullet in with a sealing patch. The patch has a part number. Got mine fixed and everything was fine. I had the 6 spd ZF automatic transmission and it was very fast and problem free. Although i had changed my fluid and i sourced the oem kit for the fluid change. I constantly spent onto my car but in exchange it has always started and has never stopped on the road. There was always somekind of problems but they were mostly electrical problems. I got to know this car very well. The aftermarket parts are not fitting and this is pretty much true in almost every cases. I meet with this problem 2 times ( front wheel hub bearing assembly and the break booster).The electric park break is a cool thing i loved it and never had problems with it.
You're the man. I have a 2000 s type and I stalled out on a highway ramp. Finally got it started again and my mechanic said it was the alternator. Still having the problem after a new alternator. It has a rough idle. Sometimes when I hit the gas it it cuts out. And it stalls every once in a while. I have an engine light on. Also my traction fault is on and recently the airbag light goes on Sometimes. Smh. Any idea where to start?
rough idle might mean bad spark plugs/coils,, with the airbag light ive heard a cable on the steering wheel mounted one can get bad over time (read it in a forum as ive recently gotten a airbag light too)
Hey buddy change ur guel filter
2000 MODEL Rough idle - CHANGE 'PCV VALVE ' rubber tube , located at top rear of motor. DIY #$50 . workshop > $350. Re traction fault. I have same problem. I just ignore it.
I’d love to see a video on the bushing replacement..Thanks for your efforts.
THX! rly I have owned the car for half a year, I am absolutely in love with its spirit - in your video I noticed a couple of sores that apparently are in my car. Thank you!
I subscribed. Thank You You are a gentleman and a scholar. Your presentation was very helpful. Thank You again
A great video - clear and precise. I have a 2003 S-Type R w 195.5 K miles.- many of the problems you mention are the same on the S/C car.
I have some of the common problems -
1. No control of the climate control system - mine runs hot all the time. I've been told my heater core is is blocked and condenser too -they said the upper and lower fittings did not match etc. but shop did not look at the CCV - so a video on this would be great if it doesn't already exist (I'm new to your channel).
2. I just developed a very loud squealing serpentine belt upon start-up and it stays until the part (or car) gets warmed up. There was a TSB on this problem which involved replacing several pulleys - and on my car perhaps the S/C belt and pulley. A video on this would be helpful.
same problem here with the squeaky belt, but mine actually stops after just a minute of running. In the winter it obviously kept sqeaking a bit longer
hi do you have any videos on replacing the auxiliary diesel heater
Excellent video presentation, thanks for sharing
Great Video. I have previously owned 2 3.0 SE's and now own an R. Have experienced most of these issues at one time or another along the way. Another problem ALL of my S-Types suffered from is annoying front suspension knocking caused by worn front anti-roll bar (sway) bushes. Due to the way Jaguar designed the car, its a pain to replace them but you don't need to remove the subframe as per the Jaguar process. Need to tackle from inside the engine bay, remove the expansion tank, all hoses at the front (disconnect and move out of the way using bungie cords as appropriate), the heater valve, Intercooler pump (R only) etc and be creative with socket extensions and UJ's. You will of course still need to get under the car to remove the U clamps, bushes and re-install etc. I replaced with Powerflex on my R so I never have to do the job again as well as the drop links to complete the job as the extra cost is low and the R is a keeper.
What was the mileage?
@@vine6005 It varies. My R only had 44k odd on it, that was around a year ago. Cannot remember on my 2 SE's but they were +60k. So its age as the rubber dries and breaks up, not just mileage.
Excellent work, thanks very much indeed, lots of really, really good information here, great for a used inspection 👍👍
thanks. i am also looking for any video on front suspension
Hello
Thank you on your advice video do you have experience with 2.7 diesel engine?
Could you please do the rear suspension video repair?
Thanks for the video!
I hope you see my question... I have a jaguar stype 4.0 From the year 2001 I have a vibration in the steering wheel between 100-120 kmh, sometimes it is more noticeable, other times less... change brake discs, brake pads... tires, but the vibration persists, any advice? thanks from Barcelona Spain!
Thank you for sharing these videos and information. I would like some insight and help with regards to my 2005 jaguar S type. The car set around not being used for at least four months, I put a new battery in last night. I drove it around for about 45 minutes. I parked the car and then the alarm and horn started going off on its own. Any suggested help is welcome without having to pull the fuse out. Lol.
You need to recalibrate both ignition keys with the car safety system this is what happens when you change the battery and the you lock the door after...it is a simple procedure,go look on internet or manual book
So I had automatic transmission and it died, I changed it to manual I put manual gearbox in 3.0 and now it’s asking to change gears on 3000-3500rpm and if you don’t change gear it doesn’t goes for more rpm, and what it could be what should I change do u have any clue bro? thx.
How do you replace the crankshaft sensor and what’s the right sensor to get ?
There are not many of these cars around now - but please make more videos...
Coveted 👁
My wife drove our s-type hot, oil doesn't smell burnt. I replaced thermostat, im not sure if I'm not burping it right or what, I have no heat into the cab I decided it was water pump not moving the coolant being it's cheap and a easy swap I did it, nothing changed. I see the valve you showed and wanted to know if that could be my problem, temp gauge was at middle and held put you could tell it was over heating so coolant is not getting to sensor. Thx for your time
Weldone for your good job here, i really appreciate this, please on the transmission part, can you do a video of how to replace those transmission leakages, the throbearing, and transmission mount.
Excellent summary. I have a 2004 Jaguar S-Type 6 cyl . I have had a Performance Restriction for months now. It runs great but it bucks when I try to accelerate quickly. I also have water in the passenger floor mat after heavy rain. Could the PCM be damaged like you mentioned?
I to had an '03 S-Type 3.0 with the Auto Trans. Got over 200k miles out of it before catastrophic failure claimed it. But it still ran like a champ and I got 27 mpg Highway @ 80+ miles per hour. Would probably still be driving it if it had the Millenial anti-theft device, LOL! Ford did an outstanding job making that car better than Jaguar ever did and when I wasn't driving that car to work I was driving a Crown Vic at work. The performance differences between it and a crown vic with the P71 police package were almost identical, except the Jag got much better MPG on the highway. I drive a Honda Accord now and absolutely love it, I was able to find a 7th gen. with the Millennial anti-theft device, and haven't looked back, LOL!
I had problems with the electronic handbrake every winter...it didn't like the cold.!!
Made the sounder constantly go beep beep beep..it was the module that sits on top of the rear axle failing..got one from an XJ6 and so far it's been ok since.. £90
Can youmake that video os replacing the rear bushing control arm stabilizer and the three bushings, Please.
TY brother, I have a question. Now I have a problem with cold start. I change the fuel pump battery and the problem is the same. What can be? when hot it starts me the first time
My 2003 S-Type 4.2l has been the best car I ever owned. Bought it used in 2010 do all of my own maintenance and so far has been great. Replaced the rear control arm bushings and heater valve and a few coils but that's to be expected with 165,000 mile car. I'll run it until she dies and now that I'm retired and don't drive it much it should last even longer than expected.
Have you ever experienced a failed Beck/Arnley PVC valve that's only a few months old? My car puffs occasional blue smoke on start up but not all the time, or when idling, or on the highway, or all the time. It's so intermittent that I think it's the PCV I bought this past August. Thoughts?
Hi. Transmission is slipping on first gear, what is going to be?
I need some help/recommendations. With the ignition cylinder not working right (cat system fault error nothing works, speedometer, milage, suspension(only the rpm) works). I have to flip the key or get it in just right to work or mess with the hazard/rest clear/trip buttons to work.
Insight about the automatic zf 6 speed gearbox?
better than the zf 5 speed, if you buy a jaguar with one better ask if they had done any service on it, or check if it shifts rough when cold
Very good video, thanks.
hello there, I like your video. I have a 2002 s type sport, that has been sitting in my garage for past 6 years with discounted battery. when I went to start it, I shows a message ' engine fail-safe ' it turns over, but won't fire up. any idea what it could be ?
cheers.
When I start my car and shift into reverse, it slams really hard. Would that be a transmission mount? Any ideas?
FYI - drooping headlights is an issue on both HID and standard headlights. The adjusters are not robust or strong enough to withstand the downward force exerted on the lights when you hit the front edge of a pothole, causing them to break. They are very poorly designed.
Tha failsafe engine mode has turned on, on my 2002 jaguar stype any recommendations on what it could be
Make that video about the process for replacing the bushings
I have an issue with a secondary air pump valve. It’s giving me the code P2442, I was wondering if there is anything you could give me advice on. I ordered the part and want to replace it myself, but I cannot even find the piece under the hood, and there are no videos or information about it. Thank you
I have a 2008 S-type. What are the problems and solutions?
Im looking at getting the 2008 stype, how reliable is this one? Can it serve a long time?
I have a s type 4.2 2003 101K miles. When i go up from the lowest gear on any side of the J gate shifter between the lowest gear and second the car makes a slight thud and triggers a gearbox fault then the car goes into limp mode. I pull over wait a minute restart the car and its fine. It doesn't do it all the time but sometimes 4 or 5 times a day. It doesn't do it in any other gear. I live pretty rural and no one here even wants to try and fix it. Online jag guy said it could be the coil for if it back fires there is a signal sent to the gearbox for the fault to protect the engine ...but other say its the tranny...Any Ideas? Thanks
Had it ever any fluid changes for the gearbox? Usually they never change the fluid for them as they were marketed as needing basically no service, which is a lie lmao
and by your description it would not be a misfire but a gearbox fault. A usualy misfire would make your car burn more gas when stationary give you less performance etc
I didn't see any other videos on the top ten issues
Interesting! Do you have the same possible issues with the later S-Types (late 2004 onwards) inc the 2.7 V6 diesel version?
05 jaguar s type sport 4.2l auto transmission.
Is this a good model to buy..
Were parts hard to come by?
Thanks for your tips
I have 4.2 2003 s type need to replace my compressor but frame is in way of 2 bottom bolts, any way to remove these or solution thanks
what is the part number for the ccv from motorcraft
On average how much does maintenance cost per month on this car?
A simple oil change is $400
That's a silly question ! Anything could jump out and destroy your wallet anytime. You can do your own maintenance if your a competent DIY'er , If you are tight with money, STAY AWAY., especially early 2000 model onwards. (S-Types) . Note: ALL RUBBERS perish over time even on Rolls Royce, Prestige prices then come into play to repair.
Great video new to chanel just got.a.2007 s type only done 73.000 just one little job rear shocks are.leaking.rest solid mint interior
Hi, the oil light in my dashboard keeps illuminating, i changed the oil and the light is still illuminating intermittently. What shall i do?
I drive a 2007 S Type car 3.0
Great vid...
May ask you...
I read in google...
Jag s type there is non vvt and vvt...
1999-2002 non vvt...
2003-end is vvt...
Is that true?
Tank it was a nice information
What will cause it not to start and wont even notice the keys after dashboard light is on changed both battery and fuel pump
Wonderful cars...I had so few problems and many miles of magnificent travelling...just service the car regularly
A1C
Hello, can you help me? I have a 2000 S-Type V6 3.0 that has a problem, it cuts off the engine when you step on the accelerator.You can drive all day with it but you just can't press the gas when you do that it cuts the engine. You have to accelerate gradually, smoothly. What could it be? The scanner showed a problem with the accelerator pedal sensor and also the throttle body, we have already replaced both and the problem persists...please help me.
Throttle body probably?
Fine video man! Where are you located anyway, I wanna go and play!!! I have an S-Type 2002. Thanks, great video. I am in North Hollywood, California.
i wish i had found your channel before i sold my jag
I drive a 2000 Rover 75 KV6 with 53000 miles on the odometer and was considering buying a Type S with it. But now that I hear these 10 issues, I think I'm limiting myself to just one car with these kind of maintenance issues. But you never know.
The stype is much more reliable than the rover. The only issue ive had thus far is the climate and that happened at 110000 miles
Auto handbrakes not coming off can also be a bad battery, and there are videos here on youtube showing you how to reset it and get it off.
My 2003 s type was not started for 4 months. Now it doesn't start. It turns over but no engine start. I have fuel in the tank. What can I do?
Hey were are u located
Fantastic video
I have a request. How to change the AC and clutch, and the water pump. And possibly the power steering pump on an 01 S type. Ugh.
Alarm bell: not the standard sound from open-door or back-up sensor. Softly repeats 5 times, then pause, then 5 dings, then pause, finally goes away after repeating 3 times.
amazing vid!!! thanks
So I'm going buy a new one throttle body sensor but I need help on fixing this park brake fault
Don't understand your problem, For starters 'throttle body sensor' is not a 'sensor', it's sole purpose is to 'fly by wire' the accelerator pedal. Can be sent for re calibration as to buying a new one, you will have to mortgage your house
Interessante e ben spiegato complimenti. Da parte mia segnalo un doppio problema su Jaguar s-type executive 2.7d automatico a macchina ferma con motore spento si inserisce il climatizzatore e si deve intervenire con accensione motore per eliminare il problema poi anche dopo spegnimento del motore si sente un gorgoglio come acqua in ebollizione
How about leaking plastic valve covers!
Hi I have a jaguar stype 2004 and the other day I got a park brake fault code which cause my car to go into limp mode I tried looking it up and it said if my battery is bad that means it's not giving enough voltage to the electric park brake so I had my battery checked and AutoZone said it was bad so I had a new one put in then I drove from sam's club and it came back on then later I got a check engine light which said tps or throttle body sensor code I checked with my scan tool so now I got two issues 😭😭😭
I wish to say to Jag on a Budget, that I have pictures of the Bosch and Motocrat sealed solenoids and what those cheap once on ebay look like. I can send you copies if you wish o add them to this video. And yes, the AC system is not just complex - it uses a system which is no conventioal - if the cooling give problems - give it to someone that knows how the cooling works ( a part time technician that has Jag experience) since it is not conventional at all.
Thank you.👍🏻🇬🇧
Thank you so much
good vid. thanks
Jerking of unit what is the solution?
I have a 2007 3.0. Aircon gassed and runs cold only when Revs are above about 1500rpm… turns into a furnace at traffic lights…. Electrical? Valve? Clutch on compressor? … please help I’m melting in traffic.
class.
Good content hard to hear you
Your car is an early 1999-2003 car, so I am surprised that you did not mention front suspension nor window regulators, both of which are problematic and were replaced on the later 2004-07 cars, which are more reliable than the BMW E60 5-series with which they competed.
Failure-prone factory 4-litre cam chain tensioners and the pathetic Ford transmission on the early automatic v6 should also be mentioned.
Interesting video but your audio was very quiet