@@MsMeme227 I think for those hoses you have to go to Jaguar, unfortunately..... You could call your local Napa, or parts shop, but they are specialty hoses so I think they are a dealer item :(
You can buy the black and white hose connector at autozone and just use genaric hose with a hose clamp the have them in the section with all the American car parts this jag was built in cooperation with ford and shares a lot of parts with the Lincoln ls and ford thunderbird they are all the same platform and the 3.9 that ford/Lincoln uses it’s the same as the 4.0 and 4.2 u can swap parts back and forth
I can't thank you enough for filming this and posting it! My neighbor's 2006 S-Type sprung a leak and it turned out to be the heater valve. A quick trip to the parts store and an hour worth of my time and it was back on the road and running better than ever. It also gave me an excuse to buy a few more tools that I "needed" to get the job done and to keep in my toolbox for future use. Thanks again!
Thanks soo much for the great comment. I do my best to inject some of my personality into my vids to try to make them a little entertaining:) thanks again :)
So good explanation 👏 I have jaguar stype 3.0 2008 recently I heard sounds behind the screen navigation after and every time I turn on or off even AC or heater could you please let me know
Hey there, most likely that could be you blend doors. Those are the dividers that move around when you change the temperature, or change from feet to vents to defrost etc.
@@shiyeliainkorea Glad I gave you a project idea!!!! That is great :) The one thing most people don't know is that bolts on most automotive cars get some serious engineering and are usually much higher quality than aftermarket replacements.
Thank for a very helpful video. My questions are: 1) How long did it take to complete the instillation? 2) how mush would it cost to have the job done by a repair shop?
Hey thanks for the comment. It really was not that hard. I would say if you took your time you could easily do it in 2hrs, I probably took closer to 3hrs, but I'm filming so its not a fair comparison. I could probably do one in about an hour. But I think 2hrs is reasonable for someone new. You don't loose much coolant either so that's nice. To take it to a repair shop is subjective, but at 2hrs (let say) and their shop rate could be anywhere between 75-175/hr I think you would probably be looking at 150 to 350 labour plus the part. It would also vary on how familiar the shop is with Jags. Keep in mind that sometimes when the heater valve burns out it creates a heavy current draw on the CCM module and causes it to fail. Here is a vid on how to get the CCM out ruclips.net/video/qIPWtyGz64o/видео.html and here is how to fix it ruclips.net/video/8nJBogEXkTY/видео.html
Hey Thanks for the comment. Let me tell you brother those things are worth any penny !!!! You can do exhaust and really easy for oil changes as the car is level. They are just great. I'm not an affiliate but here is their website www.quickjack.com/ Now I picked mine up at Costco, and you can usually find them for a good price at some parts store. They are worth every penny !!!!
Hi there, great video. What’s the tool you use to undo the quick connects? I have hose clamp pliers for the bottom connectors, but agree it would be easier to remove it with those hoses still attached. Thank you very much. Steve.
Hey thanks for the positive comment brother, I do appreciate that. The tool is a General Motors tool. Kent Moore makes tools for GM, and when I was a mechanic for GM I ordered my own. The part is J-38723 and it is made in the USA. I did find an equivalent on Amazon.com amzn.to/3uF8JKS made by OTC. I have no idea why it only got two stars unless the OTC one is made out of a different material. I use this thing on so many things as its small and the handle will give you leverage. I have OTC tool and for the most part they are good quality, but I can't compare it to the Kent Moore as I have never examined the OTC. Hope this helps you out and you are having a good weekend :)
@@sablett Hey Steve, I have found that many times a bad control valve takes out the Climate Control Module. I'm just finishing filming how to repair the climate control module and should have it up in a week or two. You probably can't wait that long so I'll give you the down low. Remove the climate control module, see my how to replace it vid. ruclips.net/video/qIPWtyGz64o/видео.html Then you can take it apart, be careful of the microphone. Once you slide the circuit board out and inspect it, you will most likely find two burnt points. You can solder in a jumper wire with a 1 amp fuse (I think I used 1 amp) then re-assemble. Most people don't think of the climate control module, but it goes quite often.
Here is the vid on how to rebuild the Climate Control Module if you are still interested :) ruclips.net/video/8nJBogEXkTY/видео.html Thanks and have a great Sunday :)
I'm not sure but it could be, an easy way to tell would be to feel the hoses coming out of the valve and see if they are hot. If the hose is cold then you know its stuck closed.
hi @GargaeKing what a beautiful engine. 😂 who would have thought jaguars looks beautiful outside and in. Everyone has inside them a piece of good news. The good news is you don’t know how great you can be! How much you can love! What you can accomplish! And what your potential is.- Anne Frank remember me 💝 have a good day.
Hey There, I'm a GM mechanic so that was a genuine Kent Moore tool, but OTC made one, that's what's in the link. The link works and then does not, I guess the product comes and goes so I leave the link up. Here is another tool I just found but I can't confirm quality amzn.to/3sa7eZ3 please let me know if you buy it. Thank you
@@YouThomasGti Hey There I checked amazon France and could not find it. You can try searching for Otc 519157 Gm Htr Line Disconnect or CTA Tools A373 GM Heater Line Disconnect Tool
It may seem obvious to many. However, I am unaware of the Jaguar procedure for correctly bleeding air from the cooling system. For that matter, I've never found a video explaining how to refill a Jaguar cooling system that is empty. I am about to flush my (2005 S-type V6) with distilled water and then replace the thermostat (due to age), reservoir tank (due to cracked nipple) and heater control valve (intermittent heat supply). My other Jag and Porsche each have their own procedure and equipment to do it properly. Every video treats refilling the system as though it's insignificant. I've spent hundreds on parts. This is the first vehicle I've owned with a bleed valve. I'm thinking of adding one to the Porsche.
You raise an excellent point and thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate comments like these as they help me make better videos. When I replaced the heater valve I actually didn’t loose much fluid so I just filled it up, replaced the cap, and I noticed that about the same went in that came out so I knew I was good. I then ran it and made sure I got heat comping out of the vents. The Jag does have a bleeder valve on the engine if I’m thinking correctly so when you shut it down wait for a min or two then crack the bleeder and see if there is air at the top. When I worked for GM we would fill the reservoir, put a pressure tester on it, and pump it up to a few pounds. Then go through the bleeders until there is fluid coming out. (Obviously keep adding as needed). Thanks again for raising a good point.
@@GarageKing Thank you, for the response! I've heard people recommend adding the fluid, turning the heat to max, run the car to open the thermostat, add more coolant, repeat, etc. The problem is...it's not air conditioning, it's heat! Your air conditioner won't scald you. Wouldn't it make sense to open the bleeder valve AS you refill it? Porsche recommends using a sealed tank with coolant to force out air pockets. It "sort of" works. I'm curious as to the factory recommended procedure. I discovered the hard way that over filling coolant ruins the "low coolant" sensor (switch). Thanks again, for the videos and effort. I am not a newbie by any means but I know when I'm not 100% knowledgeable.
@@toobad9946 Hey Jim, you definitely don't sound like a newbie, and it's great you are tackling some work, it is empowering, plus you can save some cash. You comment about opening the bleeder as you fill the coolant is valid, and I would recommend doing that when ever you can. When you pour the fluid into the overflow you are creating a slight pressure and an open bleeder valve can get rid of an air lock. As for the exact procedures on the Jag, I'm not sure, but I have done so many vehicles that I see similarities. A good example is the VW Vanagon (I have one) VW says that to fill antifreeze, the front of the vehicle should be elevated (engine is in the rear and radiator is in front). The best way to fill that vehicle is to crack the bleeder on the rad, fill the overflow tank, then use a pressure tester to "raise" the fluid in the front, and repeat. One thing I always did (and still do sometimes) is measure the amount that comes out. If you are putting close to the same amount in then you are off to the races. Sometimes on the Japanese vehicles I get as much as I can in there, but I'm always about 1/2 litre short. I overfill the expansion tank, and after a few cycles they purge and the expansion tank is right where it should be. I haven't heard that overfilling coolant will ruin the low coolant sensor. Usually those sensors are two types. A) sliding sensor, think of a cork on a rod, and B) two electrodes. They are submerged in a tank to the side, and when the coolant gets low either the cork slides down and triggers the light, or the electrodes are no longer submerged and the continuity in the circuit is broken when triggers the light. If you are unsure then measure what comes out. I did that on the Jag and was surprised at how little came out when I did that heater valve.
Your codes are all related to the servo actuators that move the doors in the dash to blend the air, if one is stuck/damaged/broken it can cause the temp to remain constant as the doors are stuck in the same position. If you took the computer out I would check all the connections as its unlikely all these different servo motors are failing at the same time. Its more likely that there is a bad connection somewhere. If you have a bi directional scanner you can trigger the actuators to move. If you were in the dash check all of your connections first, it could be something simple before you go digging.
I think for the hoses you may have to go right to Jag with the serial # of your car. Can't see that being an aftermarket part. If you are looking for the tool to take them apart, the link for the tool is in the description and you can get it off Amazon. Use to the tool so you don't break the plastic piece of the hose..........
Hey There, I'm not sure. They were ordered from the US years ago, like 10 years ago by the other owner. They are super low profile and give the car a different ride.
You do realize that those coolant hoses u popped off you literally did it the hardest way possible u are suppose to push the white tabs in and pull the black part of the plastic hose fitting there is no reason what so ever to remove the white hose locking clip like they put the push tabs there to make ur job easier not harder and now u have people out here struggling when these are supposesupposed to to be dummy proof
No you are not, that is the reason that I used the tool. If you are talking about the 8:50min mark I used the GM Kent Moore tool to release the hoses. That is the easiest way because the tool can be in any position. If you do it your way you have to squeeze those tabs which don't always play nice, you can't be in any position, and you can loose the O-Ring that will come free and often binds when you put it back together. Doing it with the tool allows for everything (clip and o-ring) to stay in place when when hose is removed. GM uses the same type of connections and how I did it is how the manufacturer states to do it. How you did it, is how someone without the proper tool figured a way to take it apart. Sorry but you are wrong here. I appreciate your other comment, but in terms of taking the hose apart, this is why the tool was made.
I hear you, but your tip is fine as long as someone resets the O-Ring. When you do it your way its easy to loose the o-ring and it can bind. The clip remaining in the hose is what keeps the o-ring in. You may have been lucky so far, but if you do it your way please check the o-ring is seated before you put it all back together.
Hi There, I didn't charge anything as it was my friends vehicle, he just supplied the part and I fixed it and made a video out of it. I think a normal shop would probably charge around 2 hours labour (whatever their rate it) plus the part.
Its actually not too bad to do if you take it out from the top. The one in the video was the first one that I did and at first I though OMG how am I going to get this out. Surprisingly it was not too bad :)
The must have tool for disconnecting the heater hoses, this is one of my go to tools for many jobs amzn.to/3uF8JKS
Where can I get the hoses that connect to it ? Or what are they called cant find and my hose broke
@@MsMeme227 I think for those hoses you have to go to Jaguar, unfortunately..... You could call your local Napa, or parts shop, but they are specialty hoses so I think they are a dealer item :(
@@MsMeme227 If you go to Jaguar, they will pull up a picture and you can pick them out of the picture.
You can buy the black and white hose connector at autozone and just use genaric hose with a hose clamp the have them in the section with all the American car parts this jag was built in cooperation with ford and shares a lot of parts with the Lincoln ls and ford thunderbird they are all the same platform and the 3.9 that ford/Lincoln uses it’s the same as the 4.0 and 4.2 u can swap parts back and forth
@@DrewDown-cq4zr Thank you for the reply, very informative and it will surely help others out. Thank you
I can't thank you enough for filming this and posting it! My neighbor's 2006 S-Type sprung a leak and it turned out to be the heater valve. A quick trip to the parts store and an hour worth of my time and it was back on the road and running better than ever. It also gave me an excuse to buy a few more tools that I "needed" to get the job done and to keep in my toolbox for future use. Thanks again!
Thank you for the great reply, and your neighbour owes you a big high five !! Hope you are enjoying your weekend
Slowly i am getting my plug on understanding more about cars, amazing video as always.
Thanks soo much :) You will be a mechanic in no time haha!!
Best informative video i've ever seen on RUclips everything explained & shown in full detail !! Thank you.
Thanks soo much!!! I put a lot of effort into my vids so I love when I get a comment like this. Thank You :)
THANK YOU for such a detailed explanation regarding how to disconnect the electrical connector. Saved me a bunch of time and earned you a subscriber!
Thanks so much for that, I do appreciate it :) I do my best and its great to see these type of comments. Thank you and have a great weekend :)
I must say your very educational and informational this by far was the best how to fix it video I watched thanks 🤝👍
Thanks very much for the great comment. I do appreciate that !!!!
Your videos are very informative and also a bit quirky in a good way. Keep up the good work!
Thanks soo much for the great comment. I do my best to inject some of my personality into my vids to try to make them a little entertaining:) thanks again :)
Great video! Very well detailed explanations and views of the work.
Thanks for the comment brother, it's great comments like this that keeps me going. Thank You and Happy Holidays to you :)
Thanks for this clear video, very good tutorial
Thank you!!!!
That is a slick ride! Once there is electric problems, the car is pretty much toast..Unless your GK!
You bet hahaha!!!!! Nothing GK can't handle :) Thanks brother!!!
You da MAN, G!
I bet you could fix a jet engine!
@@karlinladeramusic I would certainly try!!!!!
So good explanation 👏 I have jaguar stype 3.0 2008 recently I heard sounds behind the screen navigation after and every time I turn on or off even AC or heater could you please let me know
Hey there, most likely that could be you blend doors. Those are the dividers that move around when you change the temperature, or change from feet to vents to defrost etc.
Hey very detailed, was searching for a while and found this, thanks!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey very good video, helped me out.
Glad I could help out!!!
best tips, I enjoyed watching.
just got project idea, reducing corrosion on bolts.
Thanks!!!!
@@shiyeliainkorea Glad I gave you a project idea!!!! That is great :) The one thing most people don't know is that bolts on most automotive cars get some serious engineering and are usually much higher quality than aftermarket replacements.
Thank for a very helpful video. My questions are: 1) How long did it take to complete the instillation? 2) how mush would it cost to have the job done by a repair shop?
Hey thanks for the comment. It really was not that hard. I would say if you took your time you could easily do it in 2hrs, I probably took closer to 3hrs, but I'm filming so its not a fair comparison. I could probably do one in about an hour. But I think 2hrs is reasonable for someone new. You don't loose much coolant either so that's nice. To take it to a repair shop is subjective, but at 2hrs (let say) and their shop rate could be anywhere between 75-175/hr I think you would probably be looking at 150 to 350 labour plus the part. It would also vary on how familiar the shop is with Jags. Keep in mind that sometimes when the heater valve burns out it creates a heavy current draw on the CCM module and causes it to fail. Here is a vid on how to get the CCM out ruclips.net/video/qIPWtyGz64o/видео.html and here is how to fix it ruclips.net/video/8nJBogEXkTY/видео.html
Woow jagurar always been my favourite car. I remember my grandfather had one.
So every time I see one bring back great memories. Have a great day GK
Thanks soo much for coming by. These vids are not easy to make!!!! They take a lot of time to do so I appreciate you coming by. Many thanks!!!!
mate! what are those lifts! they are cool as anything !
Hey Thanks for the comment. Let me tell you brother those things are worth any penny !!!! You can do exhaust and really easy for oil changes as the car is level. They are just great. I'm not an affiliate but here is their website www.quickjack.com/ Now I picked mine up at Costco, and you can usually find them for a good price at some parts store. They are worth every penny !!!!
Hi there, great video. What’s the tool you use to undo the quick connects? I have hose clamp pliers for the bottom connectors, but agree it would be easier to remove it with those hoses still attached. Thank you very much.
Steve.
Hey thanks for the positive comment brother, I do appreciate that. The tool is a General Motors tool. Kent Moore makes tools for GM, and when I was a mechanic for GM I ordered my own. The part is J-38723 and it is made in the USA. I did find an equivalent on Amazon.com amzn.to/3uF8JKS made by OTC. I have no idea why it only got two stars unless the OTC one is made out of a different material. I use this thing on so many things as its small and the handle will give you leverage. I have OTC tool and for the most part they are good quality, but I can't compare it to the Kent Moore as I have never examined the OTC. Hope this helps you out and you are having a good weekend :)
@@GarageKing in my situation all the vents are red-hot, would you think that’s the DCCV or the Climate control module?
Thanks so much in advance. 👌👌
@@sablett Hey Steve, I have found that many times a bad control valve takes out the Climate Control Module. I'm just finishing filming how to repair the climate control module and should have it up in a week or two. You probably can't wait that long so I'll give you the down low. Remove the climate control module, see my how to replace it vid.
ruclips.net/video/qIPWtyGz64o/видео.html
Then you can take it apart, be careful of the microphone. Once you slide the circuit board out and inspect it, you will most likely find two burnt points. You can solder in a jumper wire with a 1 amp fuse (I think I used 1 amp) then re-assemble. Most people don't think of the climate control module, but it goes quite often.
Here is the vid on how to rebuild the Climate Control Module if you are still interested :) ruclips.net/video/8nJBogEXkTY/видео.html Thanks and have a great Sunday :)
Will this be the issue ,for a no heat situation,,?
I'm not sure but it could be, an easy way to tell would be to feel the hoses coming out of the valve and see if they are hot. If the hose is cold then you know its stuck closed.
hi @GargaeKing
what a beautiful engine. 😂 who would have thought jaguars looks beautiful outside and in.
Everyone has inside them a piece of good news. The good news is you don’t know how great you can be! How much you can love! What you can accomplish! And what your potential is.- Anne Frank
remember me 💝 have a good day.
Thanks soo much for the comment!!!! Much appreciated
Great video!!!
Thanks so much, really appreciate the comment !!
Hello, thank you for the video. What tool did you use to remove quick connects please ? The Amazon link is not working anymore 😢 thanks!
Hey There, I'm a GM mechanic so that was a genuine Kent Moore tool, but OTC made one, that's what's in the link. The link works and then does not, I guess the product comes and goes so I leave the link up. Here is another tool I just found but I can't confirm quality amzn.to/3sa7eZ3 please let me know if you buy it. Thank you
ALERT ALERT, I found one here amzn.to/3sa7eZ3 if you get is please let me know about the quality !! Thanks
I'm in France and the links don't work for me 😢 can you put the references please so that I can look for them in Amazon France ? Thanks again!
@@YouThomasGti Hey There I checked amazon France and could not find it. You can try searching for Otc 519157 Gm Htr Line Disconnect or CTA Tools A373 GM Heater Line Disconnect Tool
@@GarageKing Thank you very much !
It may seem obvious to many. However, I am unaware of the Jaguar procedure for correctly bleeding air from the cooling system. For that matter, I've never found a video explaining how to refill a Jaguar cooling system that is empty.
I am about to flush my (2005 S-type V6) with distilled water and then replace the thermostat (due to age), reservoir tank (due to cracked nipple) and heater control valve (intermittent heat supply).
My other Jag and Porsche each have their own procedure and equipment to do it properly. Every video treats refilling the system as though it's insignificant. I've spent hundreds on parts. This is the first vehicle I've owned with a bleed valve. I'm thinking of adding one to the Porsche.
You raise an excellent point and thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate comments like these as they help me make better videos. When I replaced the heater valve I actually didn’t loose much fluid so I just filled it up, replaced the cap, and I noticed that about the same went in that came out so I knew I was good. I then ran it and made sure I got heat comping out of the vents. The Jag does have a bleeder valve on the engine if I’m thinking correctly so when you shut it down wait for a min or two then crack the bleeder and see if there is air at the top. When I worked for GM we would fill the reservoir, put a pressure tester on it, and pump it up to a few pounds. Then go through the bleeders until there is fluid coming out. (Obviously keep adding as needed). Thanks again for raising a good point.
@@GarageKing
Thank you, for the response!
I've heard people recommend adding the fluid, turning the heat to max, run the car to open the thermostat, add more coolant, repeat, etc.
The problem is...it's not air conditioning, it's heat! Your air conditioner won't scald you. Wouldn't it make sense to open the bleeder valve AS you refill it?
Porsche recommends using a sealed tank with coolant to force out air pockets. It "sort of" works.
I'm curious as to the factory recommended procedure. I discovered the hard way that over filling coolant ruins the "low coolant" sensor (switch).
Thanks again, for the videos and effort. I am not a newbie by any means but I know when I'm not 100% knowledgeable.
@@toobad9946 Hey Jim, you definitely don't sound like a newbie, and it's great you are tackling some work, it is empowering, plus you can save some cash. You comment about opening the bleeder as you fill the coolant is valid, and I would recommend doing that when ever you can. When you pour the fluid into the overflow you are creating a slight pressure and an open bleeder valve can get rid of an air lock. As for the exact procedures on the Jag, I'm not sure, but I have done so many vehicles that I see similarities. A good example is the VW Vanagon (I have one) VW says that to fill antifreeze, the front of the vehicle should be elevated (engine is in the rear and radiator is in front). The best way to fill that vehicle is to crack the bleeder on the rad, fill the overflow tank, then use a pressure tester to "raise" the fluid in the front, and repeat.
One thing I always did (and still do sometimes) is measure the amount that comes out. If you are putting close to the same amount in then you are off to the races. Sometimes on the Japanese vehicles I get as much as I can in there, but I'm always about 1/2 litre short. I overfill the expansion tank, and after a few cycles they purge and the expansion tank is right where it should be.
I haven't heard that overfilling coolant will ruin the low coolant sensor. Usually those sensors are two types. A) sliding sensor, think of a cork on a rod, and B) two electrodes. They are submerged in a tank to the side, and when the coolant gets low either the cork slides down and triggers the light, or the electrodes are no longer submerged and the continuity in the circuit is broken when triggers the light.
If you are unsure then measure what comes out. I did that on the Jag and was surprised at how little came out when I did that heater valve.
Great job!
Thank you, and hope you have a good weekend :)
Can the heater valve be a cause to the vehicle overheating.
I guess it could be depending on which way it fails, if it prevents flow through the engine then yes.
Use MOTUL 109142 orange coolant. It’s the same as what Jaguar overcharge for…
Hey Thanks for this, I did not know. Motul is a good brand and I associated them with oil. Thanks for the tip !
What if vents temps are consistent 74 degrees from all vents but have codes B1262, B1263, B1242?
Your codes are all related to the servo actuators that move the doors in the dash to blend the air, if one is stuck/damaged/broken it can cause the temp to remain constant as the doors are stuck in the same position. If you took the computer out I would check all the connections as its unlikely all these different servo motors are failing at the same time. Its more likely that there is a bad connection somewhere. If you have a bi directional scanner you can trigger the actuators to move. If you were in the dash check all of your connections first, it could be something simple before you go digging.
Where can I get those hoses can't find any where for 2003 type s
I think for the hoses you may have to go right to Jag with the serial # of your car. Can't see that being an aftermarket part. If you are looking for the tool to take them apart, the link for the tool is in the description and you can get it off Amazon. Use to the tool so you don't break the plastic piece of the hose..........
What kind of wheels are those ?
Hey There, I'm not sure. They were ordered from the US years ago, like 10 years ago by the other owner. They are super low profile and give the car a different ride.
5:48 Does anyone know the exact size of that bolt?
I say at the 3:50min mark that its 8mm
You do realize that those coolant hoses u popped off you literally did it the hardest way possible u are suppose to push the white tabs in and pull the black part of the plastic hose fitting there is no reason what so ever to remove the white hose locking clip like they put the push tabs there to make ur job easier not harder and now u have people out here struggling when these are supposesupposed to to be dummy proof
Not tryna be an ass or anything by any means just tryna throw some helpful tips out there for ya
No you are not, that is the reason that I used the tool. If you are talking about the 8:50min mark I used the GM Kent Moore tool to release the hoses. That is the easiest way because the tool can be in any position. If you do it your way you have to squeeze those tabs which don't always play nice, you can't be in any position, and you can loose the O-Ring that will come free and often binds when you put it back together. Doing it with the tool allows for everything (clip and o-ring) to stay in place when when hose is removed. GM uses the same type of connections and how I did it is how the manufacturer states to do it. How you did it, is how someone without the proper tool figured a way to take it apart. Sorry but you are wrong here. I appreciate your other comment, but in terms of taking the hose apart, this is why the tool was made.
I hear you, but your tip is fine as long as someone resets the O-Ring. When you do it your way its easy to loose the o-ring and it can bind. The clip remaining in the hose is what keeps the o-ring in. You may have been lucky so far, but if you do it your way please check the o-ring is seated before you put it all back together.
how much do you charge for this service?
Hi There, I didn't charge anything as it was my friends vehicle, he just supplied the part and I fixed it and made a video out of it. I think a normal shop would probably charge around 2 hours labour (whatever their rate it) plus the part.
A nightmare to do.
Its actually not too bad to do if you take it out from the top. The one in the video was the first one that I did and at first I though OMG how am I going to get this out. Surprisingly it was not too bad :)