I wanted to ask you a thing that I can't find on any page, do you know (in the firmware of today) wich aspect ratio and framerate can record the S1 in normal proress (NOT RAW) with ninja v or blackmagic video assist? It's impossible to find and updated specification of that
@@skullerhead6150 I don't shoot with an S1 but I think you can record in pro Res from any camera in to the recorder, you just set the recorder to record in Pro Res and away you go...
@@EdProsser dunno because it can do it in ProresRaw/Braw, but I only find old specs papers that were before the V-Log update that says that can only shoot in 16:9 4k and I think that now it's different after all these updates, but I can't find anything online updated with external recorders and norma Proress (with S5 too)
@@skullerhead6150 normal pro Res is usually just a function of the recorder so is just records whatever signal is going into it from the camera. So you should check the "HMDI OUT specs / OVER HDMI" and that should tell you what you need to know
Another banger as always Ed! Some really lovely frames in here, especially the wider ones of your dad sitting smaller in the frame, love it. Not heard of the lighting brand either so will have to take a look too. Loved the BTS stuff on the little insta360 too, helps to see your process!
You are literally one of the best RUclipsrs I’ve seen in a long time! These lighting setups look like what I see on actual tv shows! I’m glad I found this channel!!!
Had to put my project on hold for a few minutes just to watch your video. It is so interesting to see you work on how to setup things. We tend to buy more gear but we don't experiment with it as we should. I always see gear review but very rarely I see someone who shows you a style you can use it for. That's the most important thing, to see something you want to achieve as well. Back to work but... can't wait for your next video!
I'm glad! This video started off as just another one of those gear reviews and then I scrapped it and went with this. I actually learnt some stuff from making this vid too and often it's more about simple principles of lighting than having the best gear! Obvs the more you bounce / diffuse (and the larger the area) the more output you need from your lights!
@@EdProsser This is really the best way you can weave a story into a review. That way people connect with you and also learn something new. The better the gear the more room to play you have but sometimes less is more. You really have many stories to tell and this style of video is the best of both worlds.
so nice, thank you. Loved the Fincher's light style you did manage to achieve, very impressive. A noob question here, what does it mean bi-color and why is it better (than one color ? or whatever is the proper name for that) Finaly, can you add accessories on this light to have a window shade effect or would this be a complete different light ?
Bi-colour just means that you can change the colour temp of the light from warm to cold - so it makes it a bit more flexible, you can use it to light daylight or push it warmer for something like a room lamp. Like most lights it comes with a standard Bowens mount so you can attach softboxes or spotlights where you can cut the beam or add gobos which will project effects like blinds
Great video! I use the Cl100x and really like it :) The usb-c power on the cl100x is a love it or hate it feature, but it is amazing how small and lightweight it is :D
Haha yeah, thankfully these were quick and dirty setups. I don't get much opportunity to get my ol'dad on camera so it's nice to get some footage of him. Bowens mount seems fine to me, the Colour softbox is pretty lightweight relative to the Aperture light dome though. Fan sound, didn't really notice anything too problematic.
Excellent results. Be interested to know what iso you were shooting. Image looks very clean. I think this is your best looking work here on the channel in terms of final image. Excellent. From the bts it looks pretty bright but as most people probably know from film bts its important to light for the sensor not your eye. For a fincher look i have found its handy to use nd luts that pull the image down one stop then a couple of stops to monitor so you effectively light two stops over but making sure nothing is clipping. That way there is a tonne of information jn the shadows. Also do you normally use b7c for practicals? Also would recommend an app for matching colour temps eg kelvin and j guess the dilemma is whether to stay with sidus and have integrated light control or go off brand and mix things up with different apps. Be interested to know when you choose a panel as opposed to a hard source and bounce. I am slightly obsessed with fresnel and bouncing my way about but so many sets love panels for the control. Be interested to know your lighting inventory some time and what you use and when. Ps if anyone doesn’t have a large 5 in 1 please get one. Thx for the excellent work as always.
I'm enjoying the bounce technique - it depends mostly on time, space and what I'm shooting. A lot of the time it can just be easier to shoot an interview with a softbox setup. I don't shoot a lot of narrative - but if I were doing some setup shots for a doc where I want to sculpt the light more I'd probably go with bounce. As for b7c's I'm going to get some but in this case I was just balancing with the existing practical light. In terms of ISO on the Komodo - for lower light scenes I'd usually shoot at a lower ISO and add more light - something around 400 - generally increasing the ISO will provide more DR in the highlights and lowering will give you more in the shadows to play around with.
@@EdProsser hey thanks for that. I have to admit to not understanding why with raw raising the iso gives more highlight latitude but apparently its a real thing. I would love to understand the physics of that and im sure it has something to do with the curve and debayering process but it is hard to get my noggin around though i have seen the resluts demonstrated pretty clearly. Meanwhile i would love to know how people are using the traffic lights or not on the red komodo or any red. Clipping being the operative word. What use is separating the rgb? Practically what are you meant to do in response?? When using practicals in shot how to avoid hot spots and what to meter. I know everyone is going EL zone mad but i would be interested to know what you are using for exposure on the face ie false color or waveforms or zebra when you know that you are going full fincher. As i said i make sure im always lifted but without clipping and drop everything in post and i have to say i am amazed at the results but doing that usually satisfies the traffic lights but the exposures are definitely placed above middle grey at 50 ire. Frankly it doesn’t make much difference either way given its all meta and raw but once different light sources hove into view then we all become a little more light level and metering aware. You strike me as the kind of person who would have had a lightmeter handy. Or even a color meter. Thats not meant as a pejorative. I wish i still had mine. Apps just arent the same. Meanwhile thanks for all.
I don't actually own a light meter (!) - I keep meaning to get one - and I must admit I don't always get super technical, I've started using false colour more often now to check where skin tones sit - and generally I'm trying to get more technical in lighting - probably because the jobs I do are becoming more demanding and I am getting a better understanding of lighting... but also because the stuff I shoot doesn't always lend itself to being able to light everything perfectly - as don't shoot a lot in studios. In terms of the RGB channels - they're not all equal so it's giving you an indicator to what's happening at the sensor level, also the red channel seems to suffer from more noise from what I gather. Generally I find the traffic lights are a great way to quickly check exposure - if there is clipping / hot spots of lights - generally you just need to reduce exposure so the light source doesn't clip and boost your artificial lighting level to compensate. re: ISO I guess it's just shifting the dynamic range away from shadows and towards highlights, but you'd need to expose for the higher ISO in camera on the day of the shoot.
hello Ed thanks for your videos! Would you recommend this light instead of the Amaran 200xs? I´m thinking about buying this one since it has some advantages but I´m concerned about the durability of it because it is a recent brand and there's not a lot of information on the internet. thank you!
Well my Amaran 200xs was accidentally knocked over on a shoot last week and it was pretty much destroyed (just about works still, but totally smashed up 🤣), I realise it's a budget product but it wasn't a big knock and disappointed that it couldn't withstand this.
Most cameras will allow you to change the wb setting on it, some may have presets like sun, cloud, light bulb, some will take a custom reading and others you can literally just dial in the Kelvin value and tint.
Which was your fav lighting setup?
I wanted to ask you a thing that I can't find on any page, do you know (in the firmware of today) wich aspect ratio and framerate can record the S1 in normal proress (NOT RAW) with ninja v or blackmagic video assist? It's impossible to find and updated specification of that
@@skullerhead6150 I don't shoot with an S1 but I think you can record in pro Res from any camera in to the recorder, you just set the recorder to record in Pro Res and away you go...
Sorry, I missed your question, whatever aspect ratios / frame rates it can output over HDMI you can record externally
@@EdProsser dunno because it can do it in ProresRaw/Braw, but I only find old specs papers that were before the V-Log update that says that can only shoot in 16:9 4k and I think that now it's different after all these updates, but I can't find anything online updated with external recorders and norma Proress (with S5 too)
@@skullerhead6150 normal pro Res is usually just a function of the recorder so is just records whatever signal is going into it from the camera. So you should check the "HMDI OUT specs / OVER HDMI" and that should tell you what you need to know
Big fan of your work! Thank you for this
No worries have a bunch of more recent lighting vids if you enjoyed this
Yes more of this
Okay!
You just convinced me of get this light!!
I hope you have fun with it!!
amazing work as always! Great Tutorial!
Thanks John
Loved the second setup! The color contrast was so nice. Great vid!
Thanks Tyler - Yeah I think 1 & 2 are my joint faves.
What a great find. Thanks for the heads up on this light, and the techniques you used to light with it. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!!
Another banger as always Ed! Some really lovely frames in here, especially the wider ones of your dad sitting smaller in the frame, love it. Not heard of the lighting brand either so will have to take a look too. Loved the BTS stuff on the little insta360 too, helps to see your process!
Thanks man! Yeah the insta360 has been so useful for capturing setup process and BTS will have a lil vid on it in the future.
You are literally one of the best RUclipsrs I’ve seen in a long time! These lighting setups look like what I see on actual tv shows! I’m glad I found this channel!!!
Aw thanks! If you enjoyed this you might like my recent music video breakdown - ruclips.net/video/C_Bx3UyqXsU/видео.htmlsi=dg3ZfXvQN4vGbrgW
Great video and thank you for sharing your camera WB settings
thanks - started off as a standard gear review but decided this would be more interesting then 5 mins of product shots 😂
Lovely shots as ever Ed.
Thanks for checking it out
Had to put my project on hold for a few minutes just to watch your video. It is so interesting to see you work on how to setup things. We tend to buy more gear but we don't experiment with it as we should. I always see gear review but very rarely I see someone who shows you a style you can use it for. That's the most important thing, to see something you want to achieve as well. Back to work but... can't wait for your next video!
I'm glad! This video started off as just another one of those gear reviews and then I scrapped it and went with this. I actually learnt some stuff from making this vid too and often it's more about simple principles of lighting than having the best gear! Obvs the more you bounce / diffuse (and the larger the area) the more output you need from your lights!
@@EdProsser This is really the best way you can weave a story into a review. That way people connect with you and also learn something new. The better the gear the more room to play you have but sometimes less is more. You really have many stories to tell and this style of video is the best of both worlds.
WOW! The shots of your dad are insane! 🤩
Thanks - I guess he's making his RUclips debut!
@@EdProsser cut a sequence with some oppenheimer-esque scoring 😆
@@foreignstudio lol I did not love that film! Love the music though, but I'm hearing it too much!!
@@EdProsser fair! :)
@@foreignstudio Daddenheimer
so nice, thank you.
Loved the Fincher's light style you did manage to achieve, very impressive.
A noob question here, what does it mean bi-color and why is it better (than one color ? or whatever is the proper name for that)
Finaly, can you add accessories on this light to have a window shade effect or would this be a complete different light ?
Bi-colour just means that you can change the colour temp of the light from warm to cold - so it makes it a bit more flexible, you can use it to light daylight or push it warmer for something like a room lamp.
Like most lights it comes with a standard Bowens mount so you can attach softboxes or spotlights where you can cut the beam or add gobos which will project effects like blinds
How did you get Anthony Hopkins and Charlotte Gainsborough in the same youtube video? Epic!
They all just happened to be holidaying in North Wales at the same time!
Awesome shots, setup 1 is my favorite - followed by #2. Great stuff all arought though!
Thanks Keith! Yeah rarely get chance to get my dad on cam these days so probs my fav too!
Very nice, man!
Thanks man!
Learned a lot from here!
Good to hear!
Great video! I use the Cl100x and really like it :) The usb-c power on the cl100x is a love it or hate it feature, but it is amazing how small and lightweight it is :D
They make great lights - wish I'd known about them sooner!
Man, you're awseome for doing all of this while on vacation. How secure is its bowens mount and how loud is the unit while in use?
Haha yeah, thankfully these were quick and dirty setups. I don't get much opportunity to get my ol'dad on camera so it's nice to get some footage of him.
Bowens mount seems fine to me, the Colour softbox is pretty lightweight relative to the Aperture light dome though. Fan sound, didn't really notice anything too problematic.
Excellent results. Be interested to know what iso you were shooting. Image looks very clean. I think this is your best looking work here on the channel in terms of final image. Excellent. From the bts it looks pretty bright but as most people probably know from film bts its important to light for the sensor not your eye. For a fincher look i have found its handy to use nd luts that pull the image down one stop then a couple of stops to monitor so you effectively light two stops over but making sure nothing is clipping. That way there is a tonne of information jn the shadows. Also do you normally use b7c for practicals? Also would recommend an app for matching colour temps eg kelvin and j guess the dilemma is whether to stay with sidus and have integrated light control or go off brand and mix things up with different apps. Be interested to know when you choose a panel as opposed to a hard source and bounce. I am slightly obsessed with fresnel and bouncing my way about but so many sets love panels for the control. Be interested to know your lighting inventory some time and what you use and when. Ps if anyone doesn’t have a large 5 in 1 please get one. Thx for the excellent work as always.
I'm enjoying the bounce technique - it depends mostly on time, space and what I'm shooting. A lot of the time it can just be easier to shoot an interview with a softbox setup. I don't shoot a lot of narrative - but if I were doing some setup shots for a doc where I want to sculpt the light more I'd probably go with bounce.
As for b7c's I'm going to get some but in this case I was just balancing with the existing practical light.
In terms of ISO on the Komodo - for lower light scenes I'd usually shoot at a lower ISO and add more light - something around 400 - generally increasing the ISO will provide more DR in the highlights and lowering will give you more in the shadows to play around with.
@@EdProsser hey thanks for that. I have to admit to not understanding why with raw raising the iso gives more highlight latitude but apparently its a real thing. I would love to understand the physics of that and im sure it has something to do with the curve and debayering process but it is hard to get my noggin around though i have seen the resluts demonstrated pretty clearly. Meanwhile i would love to know how people are using the traffic lights or not on the red komodo or any red. Clipping being the operative word. What use is separating the rgb? Practically what are you meant to do in response?? When using practicals in shot how to avoid hot spots and what to meter. I know everyone is going EL zone mad but i would be interested to know what you are using for exposure on the face ie false color or waveforms or zebra when you know that you are going full fincher. As i said i make sure im always lifted but without clipping and drop everything in post and i have to say i am amazed at the results but doing that usually satisfies the traffic lights but the exposures are definitely placed above middle grey at 50 ire. Frankly it doesn’t make much difference either way given its all meta and raw but once different light sources hove into view then we all become a little more light level and metering aware. You strike me as the kind of person who would have had a lightmeter handy. Or even a color meter. Thats not meant as a pejorative. I wish i still had mine. Apps just arent the same. Meanwhile thanks for all.
I don't actually own a light meter (!) - I keep meaning to get one - and I must admit I don't always get super technical, I've started using false colour more often now to check where skin tones sit - and generally I'm trying to get more technical in lighting - probably because the jobs I do are becoming more demanding and I am getting a better understanding of lighting... but also because the stuff I shoot doesn't always lend itself to being able to light everything perfectly - as don't shoot a lot in studios.
In terms of the RGB channels - they're not all equal so it's giving you an indicator to what's happening at the sensor level, also the red channel seems to suffer from more noise from what I gather.
Generally I find the traffic lights are a great way to quickly check exposure - if there is clipping / hot spots of lights - generally you just need to reduce exposure so the light source doesn't clip and boost your artificial lighting level to compensate.
re: ISO I guess it's just shifting the dynamic range away from shadows and towards highlights, but you'd need to expose for the higher ISO in camera on the day of the shoot.
Thank you so much for your video. Did you use DZO Vespids Prime maybe 50mm at 7:48 ..? I would be so grateful if you could let me know..
These were the ZY Optics Mitakon Speedmasters, I think this was the 55mm - on S35 sensor.
Thank you so much for letting me know!!!@@EdProsser
hello Ed thanks for your videos! Would you recommend this light instead of the Amaran 200xs? I´m thinking about buying this one since it has some advantages but I´m concerned about the durability of it because it is a recent brand and there's not a lot of information on the internet. thank you!
Well my Amaran 200xs was accidentally knocked over on a shoot last week and it was pretty much destroyed (just about works still, but totally smashed up 🤣), I realise it's a budget product but it wasn't a big knock and disappointed that it couldn't withstand this.
The build quality between the two seems very similar, I'd recommend the Colbor as it's better value.
how do you change the Kalvin on your camera?
Most cameras will allow you to change the wb setting on it, some may have presets like sun, cloud, light bulb, some will take a custom reading and others you can literally just dial in the Kelvin value and tint.
what framerate at 9:25?
I can't quite remember but I assume 50 / 60 fps
What cam? Thought you were Komodo
@@EdProsser
@@John-e4p1x yes all Komodo in this one
why only 50% with v mount'?
I imagine the batteries aren't powerful enough or drain too quickly.