I was in my local used LEGO store recently and saw a 12v power system that had been modified by a previous owner to have an American style plug in. Crazy the lengths folks will go to in order to use that system! 😱 (We didn't plug it in to test it - it honestly looked pretty sketchy, haha)
Ha! I've modified the 9v train controllers to supply 12v (mostly for pneumatic compressors) but I really want a 12v train motor to test it out 😁. Tell them to send it to me, after working on Pinball machines and arcade monitors no amount of sketch will scare me 😂. Also thanks for allowing the use of your song in this, it's really easy to loop cleanly 😁. Some songs are a real pain!
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Of course! This video is great - love the humour and presentation! I'll admit that motor functions in LEGO aren't really the most interesting aspect of the hobby to me, but you present it well; it's really cool seeing the pros and cons of each train system here! I'll be sure to share this one around. 😊
Not to forget, the 9V controller can control ANYTHING you connect to it. I have seen those controlling motors on Great Ball Contraption Models and it worked extremely good because they could control the speed of the motors like they want and even let them run backwards when necessary.
Love the humour in this video. You got me every time. Informative and witty. I'm only just dipping my toes ahead of making any purchases but I'm thrilled to have found your channel.
Thanks for the comment! I try to sprinkle in a bit of humor to make videos more interesting. Sometimes a joke will land better than others but it's a good feeling when they do 😅. If you are a discord user or want to give it a try we have tons of folks in there that would love to help get you started!
I grew up with 9Volt. A buddy of mine had the older 12Volt system with the middle contact and all these fancy accessories. But it always had contact issues while we played with it as kids. So we played mine very very often, made crashed, handled it pretty rough. But it withstands and I still have it. Only one cable broke, and was available for cheap. Now I have a son, he is 7 years old, and he still can play with it.
12V engine has a huge power and incredible sound when it goes over the rails. It may get smudge on the center conductive pieces that needs to be wiped off (don't need to do this often). It is usually after storage and not being used for a while, you'd need to do this. Or maybe your hands were snotty? 😂
This was great! I do appreciate you going into the pros and cons of each system and not actually just saying 9v is the best byeeeee (though that was a hilarious bit). When I was really getting into making train MOCs, I had decide what system to invest in and I chose PU since it was still available and not super costly like 9v. Really have enjoyed your videos recently and this one was a great one with lots of information and humor. Looking forward to more from you!
Thanks so much! This video was a ton of work, and left me a bit burned out by the end of it 😅. I want to try to make an in-depth scripted video like this every month or so, I think that's the most I could commit to 😁
No it's not, because LEGO's own train models are atrocious. It's companies like BlueBrixx and COBI which show how brick trains are supposed to be built, especially if you zoom in at the 8 wide models only because they're vastly superior in terms of scale and detail level. LEGO produces children's toys while BlueBrixx' enormous offering of trains rivals the catalogs of companies like Märklin. Even LEGO's massive display model of the Hogwarts Express isn;t very good when compared with the absolute work of art that the COBI BR 52 is. Wich actually runs out of the box on larger radius tracks and can be converted to run on R56 curves without sacrificing the aesthetics.
@@classicallpvault Actually, while you are mostly right about that, do not forget LEGO 10194 Emerald Night. In my opinion thats realy a nice steam train - the best lego ever made. Of course it costs a fortune...
The only problem I have with powered up is that it drains the batteries very quickly. However, I like how it can be used in a wide variety of different locomotives. I mainly use 8-wide locomotives instead of the 6-wide Lego models because 8-wide allows me to better proportion my locomotives with minifigures.
I've definitely heard that complaint, I typically need enough battery just to make a video so they work well for me. There are DIY rechargeable solutions and the pricey Key Brick option. For anyone looking for long running sessions powered rails seems to be the way to go. Hopefully Fx Bricks can help with that 🙏
I recently found a temporary solution. See I work on a ferry and we just had to change all 200 lifevest lights because they expired. However they were never used and While playing with it I found out they contain just two simple varta professional AAA batteries.... So now I am riding through a shoebox with 400 free aaa batteries
I had a 12v system, and I remember that the 9v system was driving way smoother, the 12v drag contacts had its downsides for sure. But I also remember I had a powered switch and various lights I missed in the 9v system. I was soldering bycicle lamps to my 9v trains for cheap interior lights. (When I was 8 years old) Inmy opinion, they should have kept powered rails, and have optional custom wired or wireless controll, but keep the powersource the rail. It blew my mind when I first heared you needed batteries for all new lego trains, enormous downgrade, plus the track looks ugly, no metal look.
This is so darn cool, I loved learning so much about each system, which was interesting as Power Functions is all I've ever known! Your presentation is wonderful as well, video is so chill and interspersed with little fun moments, so much work must have been put into all the footage and editing
Thanks! I really wish I could pour this much time and effort into every video but it would have to be a full time thing at that point 😅. Luckily I had about a year and a half of previous videos I could pull clips from as well as the footage from other channels. Still it took about a month to produce / edit after I really got started, all while working on other videos to keep up with my schedule 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Gosh yeah it sure looks like it! Completely understandable that this is far too much effort to produce over and over again, but as a feat it is admirable :)
I really do love that intro! 9V. that's it and deal with it! :D Every system has its advantages and disadvantages: 12V: you'd never guess but the smell that comes of those engines is just awesome, brings me right back to my childhood! The disadvantage is the constant derailings. 9V: runs so much smoother than 12V! That's why I made that my "basis of design". PF: multiple trains on the same track with different speeds: yeah! But batteries and no signal in tunnels or in clear sunlight... PU: no separate receiver and BT has no connection problems. Still batteries though...
I hope to at least get a small loop for a 12v setup, pretty sure my modified speed regulator would power it fine. I'd love to test it someday. For PF issues in sunlight I almost used a clip of you at the beach with BANANENBUURMAN 😅
"you'd never guess but the smell that comes of those engines is just awesome" If it's what I think it is, that's the motor slowly burning out. Different type of product but same situation, I have a Dapol Britannia in N scale that came from the factory with a shorted motor. We only found that out because it reeked of ozone and kept getting stuck at the exact same point in its rotation. Ended up having to completely replace the motor. It's definitely a nostalgic smell, but it does indicate a bad, cheap or old motor.
Arjen, your parents must have been rich, 12V system was very expensive already when it was new. I usually got a fl 50,- item for my birthday, you couldn't even buy one train (track) switch for that money. Only on very special occasions did I get something in the >100,- range
Great video! And your battery joke was laugh-out-loud funny!!! But, seriously, there was a lot of information collated here, a good overview. Well done to you and your fellow Lego train fans and innovators! 😊
Great video showing the pros and cons of each system, for myself personally 9v was the best system and never got to reach it's full potential, sadly this can be said of many of the LEGO Train systems as they are generally only supported for around 10 years before being dumped for a new system such as Power Functions, that said TLG's mentaltity is they are developing systems for chlidren to use over a typical childhood, not a long lasting system that will be used by adults in the more traditional model railway format. I loved my period of LEGO train building and the things I was able to accomplish personally and as part of a club in the exhibition circuit, but the constant chopping and changing of systems and the overall lack of support by TLG towards longterm users such as myself prompted me to leave LEGO Trains and go back to traditional model railways. Das Steinkopf
I can certainly understand that. At least nowadays we have third parties stepping in with solutions for Adult fans of Lego trains. Lego releasing a passenger train and a cargo train every 3 years and changing the system every 10 just isn't enough to keep the hobby going
@@BatteryPoweredBricks what about the 4,5V system? did you get that in the Americas? We , in Europe had that as a cheaper alternative for kids in the 12V era. Only rich kids got the 12V stuff, it was already very expensive when it was new.
Thanks! This was a fun video to make, but WAY more work than I can put into EVERY video. It's definitely brought a lot of new folks in. It's always fun to add a bit of humor as well 😁
Good overview of the systems. There are also a few DIY solutions, like rewiring 9V motors to use Power Functions Controls with them, which IMO is the best (unfortunately not off the shelf) solution. I'm seriously looking forward to FXtracks 9V switches in autumn and eventually their motors. All of that said, I really need to look into the Powered UP Pybricks script you mentioned, that allows disabling the watchdog.
Idk what it is but your comments keep getting held for review 🤷♂️. At least it keeps me in the habit of checking. The power pickup bogies from FX Bricks look intriguing as well!
It is! I still remember when Martin announced their music would be released for free and could be used in creative projects like RUclips, I was so excited. They are in like 99% of my videos
Amazing video - thank you for going to such lengths to bring us an overview! I myself am a 9V fan, but just recently bought my first 12V set and systems - I have a lot to learn!!
I'm subscribed so I'll keep en eye out! I'll be documenting my journey just as well - there's just not enough content out there about them!@@BatteryPoweredBricks
3:27 so good to see someone is maintaining compatible track and engines. I had the metro liner set as a kid, and invested in SO much track - however sadly the engine/motor has seized :(
There are a number of 9 volt motors available on BL, a bit price but well worth keeping that metroliner of yours running. I try to keep 2-3 spare 9 volt motors at hand just in case. So far I have only had to replace one. BTW if you ever wish to get rid of the metriliner let me know 😀
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Yeah I know a thing or two about that :D However if you put a work in, the growth on YT is usually exponential, so don't loose strenght! :D
I dreamed of having the 9volt sets when I was a kid in the 90s. Last year I managed to get a lot from a guy who was selling his collection. It was more than I thought, and now I'm so excited to get building. This was great to see, and it gave me some ideas to look at.
I spent so much time as a kid looking at the catalogs with 9v trains in them. Eventually I did buy a 9v train set new, just a simple passenger train. Many years later I got heavy into eBay and started buying more and more. I also have a video showing all of the track layouts that were in the catalogs back in the day. I always wanted to see what they looked like in person and I hadn't seen any other channel take the time to do that. Also if the track contact wires are damaged (as most are) I have a tutorial for repairing them as well! Have fun!
I have noted one very useful thing with the 9v RC motors--you can dual-motor a 9v locomotive quite effectively via an extension wire from the track powered motor's top studs, run through the structure to the other motor. The RC motors perform just as well with that track power, and are a LOT cheaper. Potentially could use a couple wires, plus another stacked in to add lighting, but I haven't tested that.
Pretty sure I have my first 9v RC motor on its way from a Bricklink order. I feel like I've heard varying opinions on them but I'll try it for myself. As long as it performs ok the only downside is having less axles picking up power from the tracks, but as long as they are pretty clean it shouldn't be an issue
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Yeah, less axles for pickup is a thing, but I also figured one of the advantages is perhaps a bit more traction with the newer wheels (and with axles, you could even add third party wheels with beefier traction tires).
The LEGO train systems from the 80's / 90's is where it's at. I'm thinking the 80's 12v system was the pinnacle. I have a lot (huge amount) of the Power Functions system. As you point out the RC signal can be easily disrupted by sunlight, fluro light and obstacles. But to me it was this era when it felt like Lego didn't take model trains seriously. The tracks available were bare bones if you wanted to make a serious layout. I found the battery compartment were quite picky which batteries you used, especially in the way the 'positive' sat in the battery pack. Anyway I don't look at LEGO stuff on RUclips any more after I had legal threats from very nasty lawyers.
LOL, the intro was great! Great video and overview of the control systems. I like 9V, but I find my self going back to Power Function system. But I have realized that ultimately the future will be Powered Up, at least for me. I have not gotten into the 3rd party systems yet, and the only thing that will probably get me there will be a 9V system with a remote i.e. a DCCS style system. Glad the Trash bag was clean. LOL PS I love FX Bricks 9v Track, and Brick Tracks RC track.
Thanks! The real trick is knowing the best system for a given situation. Hopefully this video can help people make that determination. It took me quite a while to learn all the ins and outs 😅
I have an old 9v system that we have been using for the Christmas Tree since my kids were tiny. I haven’t used it for a few years now and when I did this year, the power connectors that connect to the track started melting the insulation. Luckily I had a power functions train motor and was able to swap out the motor in the old set. The power functions battery and IR receiver really bulk up the build. Looking forward to getting the powered up stuff next year. I saw a great tutorial on how to converted the powered up hub to a 9v rechargeable battery and make the whole case smaller.
The wires are easy to fix with only a few tools, no soldering or anything like that. I've seen tutorials for converting PU to use 9v batteries. I might look into it soon. The problem I see is that most rechargeable 9v batteries don't have a very high capacity and are often labeled as having far more than they actually provide
Finally watched this after being on vacation for a week - excellent video, very comprehensive overview of all of the systems! Thanks for featuring 12v footage from my channel! Hopefully you can get a small loop of 12v track and a motor soon... then the addiction will kick in, heh heh heh... I mean what, 12v isn't an addiction
a few years ago i got one of those old powered rail ones as a gift from my aunt and it is pretty cool it definitely stands out in comparison to the rest of the stuff with that big yellow control wheel.
I spent so much time as a kid drooling over them in the catalogs. I finally got one of the last 9v train sets when I got my first job. It wasn't until the last 2 years or so when I started buying more
@@BatteryPoweredBricks the one i got was set 4558 it was ancient when i got it so there were some missing parts for the trains themselves but other than that i had everything
This is the first video of yours I see, did you just start? you should have 100K subs, you are a talented video maker. I am not really interested in LEGO trains, but the quality of this video makes me want to see more. in other words: great job!
Thanks 😅. I revived the channel about a year and a half ago. This video is by far the most successful video I've made, but I certainly can't make one like it every week, this one took a while. I've also jumped around a bit from Mindstorms, Lego RC and GBC. That tends to hurt the channel overall and it's not uncommon to lose subscribers. I just make the videos I want to make and try to make them as entertaining / informative as possible 😃
I've always been a hardcore simp for Power Functions. No need to worry about shorting out the track or anything, meaning balloon loops are possible, and movable bridges don't require isolation or forcing connections. The third-party accessories for tracks are just so much broader than 9v as well. The one thing that saves PF from being bested by PU's Bluetooth is the cost of PF elements, which is kinda irrelevant because of BuWizz's power bricks having Bluetooth & being compatible with both systems. That, and PF hits me right in the nostalgia, because of my Horizon Express set
LEGO 9v switches are power-routing on the inside rail, that makes doing a balloon loop with them surprisingly easy if you're willing to get creative. You'd just need to electrically isolate the outside rail within the loop from the rest of the layout, connect the outside rail to power via a double-pole double-throw switch (power functions reversing switch works great), connect the turnout lever to the power reversing switch, and then just remember to stop the train in the loop and change the switch every time the train goes through. A lot of the problems the 9V guys seem to have have already been solved by the model railroading community.
Power functions is my favourite as well, because it's just so flexible. The ability to use adapters to connect both the PF motors and older 9V motors, use large technic motors hooked up to train controllers and just the very good flexibility of the system makes me like it a lot. Admittedly I haven't tested a lot of Powered Up electronics since I only have the Crocodile, but with some modding it would probably be a good alternative since you don't need a bulky IR receiver.
The 12v system was the best: hands down. I spenf all my childhood playing with those trains. Some of them are now 40 years old and they are still running.
It was certainly an amazing system. Since this video I've been stocking up on 12v parts for a simple layout, but I still need a motor and train 😅. I do have a decent bit of track and a couple power transformers
after I get the flood mess cleaned up, ill get back into the videos and trains , this gave me some insight into get my butt going again. also I like all the version of control so far, they all has +/- as you have said buddy.
oh man hate to hear that. Just after I moved to a new place I had issues with water but it was never more than an inch or so. Hope you get things sorted soon!
It was intentionally left out, I just wanted to cover the base systems using train motors. Steam locomotives can be motorized with Powered Up as well, you just have to use the PU app or PyBricks. It's something I'll get around to covering at some point, but I want more experience first
I've still got a huge bucket full of 12v centre rail Lego train stuff... I really liked the "piano" style controls for the accessories. Very tidy and simple to use. I had a gated crossing, 2 point motors, and a signal. I think thats all I had anyway. And a working C battery 4.5v battery train system from before that... 80's stuff. Also had a signal and a reverser for that too. Signal raised a little bar between the tracks that pushed in a button under the motor and cut off power, and the reverser flipped the forward/reverse switch built into the battery box. Dang, i feel old now.
My grandparents still have multiple sets of the 12v stuff in the attic. As well as more old lego sets. It's all 80's stuff my mom and aunt used to play with.
12V has most beautiful trains, and best controlls. 9V AC driven has nicest looking tracks.. Gray and silver ist just so nice. 9V power functions are very practical but the trains are absolutely terrible. Here, solved it ;-)
So, I’ve been getting into making custom Lego trains lately. Recently, I started setting up a model track. I have the blue cargo train with the Power Function system. I had no idea they stopped making them, as I bought the train an extremely long time ago. I feel old now lol
3:47 Atlas, the manufacturer of model O, HO, and N scale track, produce electrical components to make 2 Rail reverse loops easy to install. I bet it would be easy to adapt all kinds of model railroading tech to LEGO train systems. Atlas also publishes “How-To” books for beginners that go into detail about 2 rail wiring.
Cool! I'll have to check them out. I've seen some solutions here and there for Lego but until I can get dedicated power pickup bogies I'll just stick to using reversing loops on my Powered Up trains
The RC trains were the first ones I had contact with, once I got a job and was able to start getting into the hobby. The main advantage to them is that they don't require line-of-sight to operate, unlike the Power Functions ones that followed, nor do you need to fiddle with pairing or phones like the Powered Up ones. The secondary advantage is that these were the first to include a horn sound, which was quite loud and which operated from the remote itself regardless of whether a train was operating or not. As you can imagine, it could be used to scare the crap out of others :| However, you pay a pretty big price for it: - The Remotes essentially have only 3 channels, so if you have more than 3 trains, tough tamales (the RC aspect even works against you there, as you need a considerable distance if you want to use a separate remote for 3 other trains, otherwise the signal just gets sent to whatever chassis units are using the same channel); - There is no battery-box, the locomotive chassis is one large, integrated piece that has both the radio receiver and batteries, so if you, let's say, forget a bunch of batteries in it and they corrode and destroy the contacts, you're pretty much screwed as the whole thing is rendered useless; - Because of the integrated chassis, the only other locomotives you can build out of it are other large locomotives with 2 carriage-sets, so you can't use it to make smaller models.
I do have some of the RC series parts. The train base with battery box and receiver built in and the RC remote. IIRC both have battery corrosion that needs cleaned and I don't have any of the pieces to build the trains from that era. At this point I don't really see the need since other channels have covered them and shown how they work. In upcoming videos I'll be using a TON of PU trains at once and even combining them to pull heavy loads. With PyBricks I think PU is my system of choice for the majority of my trains, with some 9 volt thrown in for good measure
That 12v system looks really cool. I wish they would bring that back. Also, the current system needs rechargeable batteries and a way to charge it without taking the train apart. Seems weird that thy have not done that. They could partner with a battery company so they don't have to make thrown batteries. I will stick with my 9V system unless somehow that 12V system was revamped and re-released. I do think I need one of those crash T tracks though :).
Or if you having a steady model for example of music, sirens there has to be a constant power to the motor in order to play the song and then you have to be the buttons that can charge the dampers
Yay! Always wanted to know, why I haven’t seen much of RC systems, as I had one as a kid))) This was really cool! The train could go super-fast, falling off the rails not even on the last speed mode😅
There something called an "Atlas Selector" that basically works just like the signal on the lego 12v system (7860, If you want to look into it). If you pair it up with 5-6 9v GM transformers (9v transformers don't work, as they don't have screw terminals) can give you a feel for how the 12v system works and could, you know, get you into it.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks In the span of exactly 22 hours, I made it possible to wire it up with 9v transformers by removing the track connectors, then connecting the wires themselves to the Selector and using copper tape to connect the Selector to the track using @BrickRevolution's method right here ruclips.net/video/CH3wwNFm7eQ/видео.html.
The newest train control thing Generation isn't really cool because the battery gets empty fast. So i like the older generations much better, like the 9 volt Generation, you can use it with your own elecrity, but it's expensive now.
Always a trade off. The Powered Up system works fine for me, with rechargeable batteries but I tend not to run my trains for hours on end. Once I get a broken motor or FxBricks releases a power pickup I'll be able to combine 9v track with the PF or PU system
Power Functions is my favourite and it's what most of my custom trains use as I run my trains in the garden. Also I don't think you mentioned the PF rechargeable battery which is a life saver.
It's been pointed out I didn't mention the rechargeable PF battery, they are in very limited supply and very expensive as well. So I don't feel too bad about leaving it out of the video 😅
Actually, in my opinion the 9V-rail system is definitly the best solution for powering the trains. Whats missing is a decent motor system with a smal rechargeable battery and remote function. Using the 9v rail system with permanent 9V, but a smal rechargeble battery would allow smal segments without power in the rails, so you can construct any track design without shorting out.Also you could 3d print any special part you need without worying about having power there, if you combine rechargeble battery and 9V track. Also while permanently powered you might need extra cables to provide enough current, on the other side you could also connect signals, ligning and track switches to the rails. So the number of wires needed are much less than f.e. on the 12V system, if you do the controlls for motors remotely. In my opinion the best option for remote control would be zigbee. This might be suprising, as I know no one actually discussing it at all for train control (it is more common for house automatisation, esp. ligning like Phillips Hue), but it has some realy nice features. It supports a lot of devices (255), builds a mesh (between all permernent powered devices), is low energy, bi-directional communication (so you actually have feedback) and multiple functions per device. Depending of the implementation, after setup it is even independent of a central hub (which is essential for its original purpose, as you do not want to be unable to controll the light at home just because the gateway does a firmware update or lost internet connection). It is also quite cheap. While sadly I lack the skills for myself, I certanly hope someone might develope something in the future. While model trains often use controlls much smaler, the scale of lego trains actually alow a scale for the controlers which would make DIY soldering much more easy (there are ready to program zigbee modules with 2,54 or 2mm pin spacing and of course cheap h-bridges as modules, so you "only" need to program the module and solder some wires). While Zigbee has a bit of latency, it should be fine for lego trains.
In the interview with Michael Gale mentioned in the video he talked of the possibility of a hybrid track / battery powered system. If it is something FxBricks plans to tackle I wouldn't think it would be any time soon. Product development takes a very long time. I've seen many custom solutions involving electronics / micro-controllers over the years. It's always interesting to see
Mine (in the 1980's) had plastic tracks, with a (removable) double metal rail in between. The intersections (straight and split) had fixed metal parts. Amazing to see what is possible nowadays. Thx.
Growing up I had the two City RC trains, the passenger and freight. Both of them are currently in pieces tho. As of now I currently have on PF train, the blue freight hauler to be exact.
Question about the yellow and blue passenger train ("Powered Up" series). You use the right remote buttons to switch the front lights on and off, but our train doesn't have working lights. Is this an aftermarket accessory?
Yes it's Lego Part # 88005, they are currently out of stock online and in my local Lego store, but may have them in others. They are available on Bricklink under part # 22168c01. The newer green passenger train came with them by default
the accessories in 12v were clearly the best, and I say this as a 9v fan. I adore 9v, but... track availability is an issue (although 3rd party track is becoming easier to get). "It's 9v. Thanks for watching" 👍💗
I'm making more and more progress on making 9v just as good as 12v 😀. Remotely controlling switches was easy and I have several solutions I like, it's things like decoupling that I haven't nailed down yet 😅. There are some good solutions out there but I haven't put a lot of time into experimenting yet
Well the video does say it focuses on the "three most recent and widely used systems" which is still true. Even with all the 12v stuff I have now I am far from having a complete set of accessories. So really folks should just follow the link to check out Reker1000000 anyway
I agree with all the positive comments. Best video ever. Best 15 sec video. 😂 The level of 3rd party acceptance in the Lego train community makes me wonder how GBC would be impacted if 3rd party components were also widely used.
I wish #LEGO reintroduced power rails but change how power is circulated with providing numerous low current options such as third and fourth rails, catenaries, and old 4.5V/12V-style power rails modified to be powered in sections whenever a train bogie is present like #Alstom’s APS. Also, I wish #LEGO introduced multiple train propulsion options in addition to the standard rotary electric motor such as miniature pneumatic engines and electric linear motors.
putting batteries in trains was a huge fail by lego imo. i do hope that someone creates a digital system that's powered off the wall like 9V but, since it's digital, can handle several trains on one track etc, just like "normal" model train sets. seems like 12V was the best with the remotely controlled switches and since then it got worse. i love the 9V system and have a few trains of that time (including that grey metro liner one) but i'd love to replace the controllers and motors for digital controllers and motor modules with decoders and controllable outputs for lights etc. could also add roller modules that don't have a motor but take power from the tracks to control a crane or just the lights in a cart
Seems like FXBricks has that in mind. Their train motors have special features that would make them more friendly to adding a DCC system. That could be a ways off before they make them available. They are hoping for some time next year but these products have been in development for years
@@BatteryPoweredBricks yeah, ive already heard years ago that they wanna add motors and stuff but havent seen anything yet beside the tracks, so i have no idea if they even still work on it
They released a blog in June of this year that detailed plans for the electric components. They say the 9v connector is the single toughest component to make and has been retooled several times but is getting close. That has been holding back many of the other electrical items. I'm eagerly awaiting any updates but also not holding my breath it will be anytime soon
@BatteryPoweredBricks oooh, thats awesome. But what is the 9v connector? The pieces that connect to the rails? Or the 2x2 2/3rd brick that was used in the 90s for connecting things electrically?
They are doing both, the part that connects to the tracks has been final for ages now. If you want to see for yourself go to their website and click on blog at the top, It's the second one down. It's quite long and has some really exciting stuff they are working on
The RC system trains were my introduction to lego trains, still have my ICE and also the other one but it fell off a shelf years ago and i never restored it
I am very much a fan of power functions just for the controller alone. The powered up has a shitty controller, and 9V is not only harder to get parts for, but also harder to get custom parts for. The 9V putting so much hardware off the train is nice, but unofficial and easier to access tracks and being able to independently control trains on the same track is nice
I was wondering if youre where gonna mention the rc one i actually got the passenger train loved it still have all the pieces and track the tracks have seen better days tho
It's brief but I made sure to mention it. I have some of the components but not a complete set of them, luckily I had some friends who allowed use of their footage of the system
What a great video! I personally have a 12 volts layout but Im also used to 9 volts because my friend has some. In my opinion power funktions is the best.
There are certainly a lot of Lego train fans that prefer Power Functions. It's my least favorite system personally but everyone will have different needs / goals. I'd love to get into 12v trains at some point but the cost is far too high at the moment
I was very confused when you seemed to be referring to the 4.5V trains as “12V”. But then I realized that since the 12V system was never released in the US, I hadn’t realized it was different from the 4.5V system (which my sibling had when we were kids). So there’s one more system, which ran at basically the same time. (Looks like the last 4.5V trains were 1985 and the last 12V were 1986, and they both started in the late ‘60s.)
Actually the 4.5V and the 12V system were the same for normal tracks. The 12V system was an additional power track in the middle. Of course for switches and crossing the track was special, as you couldn't just add the power track afterwards. As a kid I had the blue 4,5 V tracks. I upgraded to 12V later. One problem of course was never enough crosses and swiches. So I learned about law of physics, esp. inertia: If you drive the train fast enough at a switch, it does not mater if it has power rails, the train still moves over it by inertia (or it derails of course...). Sadly shortly after beginning to upgrade, Lego changed to gray rails... Of course living in Germany where most real world tracks have catenary systems, I always whished for lego to implement that. Saidly they never did...
I love that ive got the RC- system. But in all honesty that dont matter to me. Had a blast playing with it and i still got it. how ever ive since gone smaller to 1/160
Good overview! I've got a largish layout which uses 9V track (hard to find straights, especially if you care about new dark bley versus old dark grey). So, I can run all 3 styles. I do have the freight RC train, but the engine is so heavy that it can't even pull a couple of cars over a turnout pair (wheels slip). I have full 9V dual-powered Metroliner and Santa Fe, plus one freight engine. I have the blue/yellow PF engine dual powered (I just flipped the center two wires of one motor connector), and it is my most powerful engine - with care I can pull 14 cars around my layout, which has hills. I've got 3 freight PoweredUp trains as well, and they are not bad for pulling. I do wish Lego would make a rechargeable PoweredUp Hub - replacing the batteries is a royal pain. I have 3 of the rechargeable Power Functions battery boxes, and one is in my blue/yellow dual-powered PF engine. I got them fairly early on from Shop @ Home, so they weren't tooooo expensive. The local Lego group does a local train show each year. Depending on who is organizing it, it can be full DCC track. Some of the members build larger, detailed cars, and their trains need a pair of "consist"ed engines to pull them. They also have some small round rare-earth magnets that they insert between the Lego ones for more grip. I don't have any DCC myself, other than one engine with decoder inserted that can be used at the show. As you can see from my not-so-good videos, I do not build anywhere as much as I should. Other things take up my time.
I've heard good things about the third party KeyBrick rechargeable battery for PU hubs. They are fairly expensive, but still cheaper then buying used PF rechargeable batteries and won't be 10+ years old
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Given how rarely I actually run trains, the expense isn't currently worth it. I basically charge up all 3 PU hub NiMHs when someone is coming to look at the layout. Next is a couple of weeks, I think. Oh, and I completely understand the pain of the time needed to make a video. That's why mine are not very good. If I can just glue together clips from my camera/phone, that's not too bad, but captions, etc......
Same here. I have over 100 rechargeable NiMH AAA's that I use. I just need them to last long enough to make a video 😁 For me making / editing videos is a big part of the hobby, maybe moreso than Lego itself. I just let RUclips autogenerate the captions and hope for the best 😅
I want to build a Lego train, nothing fancy in terms of rails, just want to to do a simple loop with the train just moving the same forward direction, what would be a good motor system for something like that? (and if there are better 3rds party ones I'm all for that too)
The third party stuff is cheap but I can't think of a single one I would recommenced. I would keep an eye out on eBay, Mercari or other online marketplaces and look for deals on a complete set. It's probably the about same price as trying to buy some track, a power system and train wheels / buffers separately. I see some good deals pop up fairly often. If you are a discord user you can join ours and if anyone comes across a good deal they can let you know. They are also really good about answering questions and giving advice
Power Functions System has a Official rechargable battery box of the same size of the AAA battery box, with the ability to build a 4way cross via the 1/4 track pieces. 3rd party "S Brick" gave Power Functions the abilities of Powered Up years beforehand, as well as expanding the ability to control multiple motors.
Yeah I should have mentioned the rechargeable PF battery, but all I would have had to say is "I don't have one and good luck finding your own at a decent price" 😅. I also wonder how much their capacity has diminished over the 10-15 years since they were manufactured. I do have a couple SBricks I could try with trains but for this video I wanted a broad overview of the official Lego systems. I'm pretty sure FX Bricks has a device that is similar as well.
I must say this is the best 15 second video I ever saw.
Ok, My wife. That was longer than 15 seconds.
The ad i got was 20 sec 💀
Well.. its actually the 4.5V system... ohh.. aa best. Not worse
And most informational
I was in my local used LEGO store recently and saw a 12v power system that had been modified by a previous owner to have an American style plug in. Crazy the lengths folks will go to in order to use that system! 😱
(We didn't plug it in to test it - it honestly looked pretty sketchy, haha)
Ha! I've modified the 9v train controllers to supply 12v (mostly for pneumatic compressors) but I really want a 12v train motor to test it out 😁. Tell them to send it to me, after working on Pinball machines and arcade monitors no amount of sketch will scare me 😂. Also thanks for allowing the use of your song in this, it's really easy to loop cleanly 😁. Some songs are a real pain!
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Of course! This video is great - love the humour and presentation! I'll admit that motor functions in LEGO aren't really the most interesting aspect of the hobby to me, but you present it well; it's really cool seeing the pros and cons of each train system here!
I'll be sure to share this one around. 😊
Thanks! I even snuck in a prequel meme... twice 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks This is getting out of hand - Now there are two of them!
We should not have made this bargain!
Trains are a pathway to many abilities that some consider to be unnatural
Is it possible to learn this power?
@@BatteryPoweredBricks not from a Jedi.
Not to forget, the 9V controller can control ANYTHING you connect to it. I have seen those controlling motors on Great Ball Contraption Models and it worked extremely good because they could control the speed of the motors like they want and even let them run backwards when necessary.
For sure! I have a playlist of videos on the 9v train speed regulator and mods 😅
Love the humour in this video. You got me every time. Informative and witty. I'm only just dipping my toes ahead of making any purchases but I'm thrilled to have found your channel.
Thanks for the comment! I try to sprinkle in a bit of humor to make videos more interesting. Sometimes a joke will land better than others but it's a good feeling when they do 😅. If you are a discord user or want to give it a try we have tons of folks in there that would love to help get you started!
I grew up with 9Volt. A buddy of mine had the older 12Volt system with the middle contact and all these fancy accessories. But it always had contact issues while we played with it as kids. So we played mine very very often, made crashed, handled it pretty rough. But it withstands and I still have it. Only one cable broke, and was available for cheap. Now I have a son, he is 7 years old, and he still can play with it.
12V engine has a huge power and incredible sound when it goes over the rails. It may get smudge on the center conductive pieces that needs to be wiped off (don't need to do this often). It is usually after storage and not being used for a while, you'd need to do this. Or maybe your hands were snotty? 😂
@@rabarebra think we had not that huge patience back these days. Nowadays I see the same with my son and his Carrera racetrack. 🤣😂
This was great! I do appreciate you going into the pros and cons of each system and not actually just saying 9v is the best byeeeee (though that was a hilarious bit). When I was really getting into making train MOCs, I had decide what system to invest in and I chose PU since it was still available and not super costly like 9v.
Really have enjoyed your videos recently and this one was a great one with lots of information and humor. Looking forward to more from you!
Thanks so much! This video was a ton of work, and left me a bit burned out by the end of it 😅. I want to try to make an in-depth scripted video like this every month or so, I think that's the most I could commit to 😁
The Duplo control system is one of my favourites.
It’s just a shame that Lego doesn’t sell steam locomotives anymore.
They’re releasing one later this year, Lego Ideas Orient Express
@@CookieChook Sweet, I hope they sell real life based ones like big boy though.
No it's not, because LEGO's own train models are atrocious. It's companies like BlueBrixx and COBI which show how brick trains are supposed to be built, especially if you zoom in at the 8 wide models only because they're vastly superior in terms of scale and detail level. LEGO produces children's toys while BlueBrixx' enormous offering of trains rivals the catalogs of companies like Märklin. Even LEGO's massive display model of the Hogwarts Express isn;t very good when compared with the absolute work of art that the COBI BR 52 is. Wich actually runs out of the box on larger radius tracks and can be converted to run on R56 curves without sacrificing the aesthetics.
@@classicallpvault man, talk about lack of effort and laziness am I right?
@@classicallpvault Actually, while you are mostly right about that, do not forget LEGO 10194 Emerald Night. In my opinion thats realy a nice steam train - the best lego ever made. Of course it costs a fortune...
The only problem I have with powered up is that it drains the batteries very quickly. However, I like how it can be used in a wide variety of different locomotives. I mainly use 8-wide locomotives instead of the 6-wide Lego models because 8-wide allows me to better proportion my locomotives with minifigures.
I've definitely heard that complaint, I typically need enough battery just to make a video so they work well for me. There are DIY rechargeable solutions and the pricey Key Brick option. For anyone looking for long running sessions powered rails seems to be the way to go. Hopefully Fx Bricks can help with that 🙏
I recently found a temporary solution. See I work on a ferry and we just had to change all 200 lifevest lights because they expired. However they were never used and While playing with it I found out they contain just two simple varta professional AAA batteries.... So now I am riding through a shoebox with 400 free aaa batteries
If I could, I would rebuild all of my existing Lego trains with Soundtraxx BluNami Bluetooth dcc
I had a 12v system, and I remember that the 9v system was driving way smoother, the 12v drag contacts had its downsides for sure. But I also remember I had a powered switch and various lights I missed in the 9v system. I was soldering bycicle lamps to my 9v trains for cheap interior lights. (When I was 8 years old) Inmy opinion, they should have kept powered rails, and have optional custom wired or wireless controll, but keep the powersource the rail. It blew my mind when I first heared you needed batteries for all new lego trains, enormous downgrade, plus the track looks ugly, no metal look.
Yeah the metal on the 9v really does look good (as long as they aren't corroded 😅). Plastic rails just don't have that
I really enjoyed this video. Great mix of your expertise + research + passion for a very specific topic. I am subscribed going forward.
Thanks! Welcome aboard 😁
This is so darn cool, I loved learning so much about each system, which was interesting as Power Functions is all I've ever known!
Your presentation is wonderful as well, video is so chill and interspersed with little fun moments, so much work must have been put into all the footage and editing
Thanks! I really wish I could pour this much time and effort into every video but it would have to be a full time thing at that point 😅. Luckily I had about a year and a half of previous videos I could pull clips from as well as the footage from other channels. Still it took about a month to produce / edit after I really got started, all while working on other videos to keep up with my schedule 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Gosh yeah it sure looks like it! Completely understandable that this is far too much effort to produce over and over again, but as a feat it is admirable :)
I really do love that intro! 9V. that's it and deal with it! :D
Every system has its advantages and disadvantages:
12V: you'd never guess but the smell that comes of those engines is just awesome, brings me right back to my childhood! The disadvantage is the constant derailings.
9V: runs so much smoother than 12V! That's why I made that my "basis of design".
PF: multiple trains on the same track with different speeds: yeah! But batteries and no signal in tunnels or in clear sunlight...
PU: no separate receiver and BT has no connection problems. Still batteries though...
I hope to at least get a small loop for a 12v setup, pretty sure my modified speed regulator would power it fine. I'd love to test it someday. For PF issues in sunlight I almost used a clip of you at the beach with BANANENBUURMAN 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Haha, you should have used the clip!
I think the clip was a bit short or something, a prime example for sure!
"you'd never guess but the smell that comes of those engines is just awesome"
If it's what I think it is, that's the motor slowly burning out. Different type of product but same situation, I have a Dapol Britannia in N scale that came from the factory with a shorted motor. We only found that out because it reeked of ozone and kept getting stuck at the exact same point in its rotation. Ended up having to completely replace the motor. It's definitely a nostalgic smell, but it does indicate a bad, cheap or old motor.
Arjen, your parents must have been rich, 12V system was very expensive already when it was new. I usually got a fl 50,- item for my birthday, you couldn't even buy one train (track) switch for that money. Only on very special occasions did I get something in the >100,- range
This guy just made research fun, give him an award
Great video! And your battery joke was laugh-out-loud funny!!! But, seriously, there was a lot of information collated here, a good overview. Well done to you and your fellow Lego train fans and innovators! 😊
Thanks! This is by far the video I am the most proud of and I couldn't have done it without the Lego community behind me
Great video showing the pros and cons of each system, for myself personally 9v was the best system and never got to reach it's full potential, sadly this can be said of many of the LEGO Train systems as they are generally only supported for around 10 years before being dumped for a new system such as Power Functions, that said TLG's mentaltity is they are developing systems for chlidren to use over a typical childhood, not a long lasting system that will be used by adults in the more traditional model railway format. I loved my period of LEGO train building and the things I was able to accomplish personally and as part of a club in the exhibition circuit, but the constant chopping and changing of systems and the overall lack of support by TLG towards longterm users such as myself prompted me to leave LEGO Trains and go back to traditional model railways. Das Steinkopf
I can certainly understand that. At least nowadays we have third parties stepping in with solutions for Adult fans of Lego trains. Lego releasing a passenger train and a cargo train every 3 years and changing the system every 10 just isn't enough to keep the hobby going
@@BatteryPoweredBricks what about the 4,5V system? did you get that in the Americas? We , in Europe had that as a cheaper alternative for kids in the 12V era. Only rich kids got the 12V stuff, it was already very expensive when it was new.
@@Blackadder75 I'm not sure if the 4.5v system was sold here, I would have been far too young.
First time to this channel... gutta admit, very informative. And you killed me when you went back for those batteries!!! Awesome!!
Thanks! This was a fun video to make, but WAY more work than I can put into EVERY video. It's definitely brought a lot of new folks in. It's always fun to add a bit of humor as well 😁
Good overview of the systems. There are also a few DIY solutions, like rewiring 9V motors to use Power Functions Controls with them, which IMO is the best (unfortunately not off the shelf) solution. I'm seriously looking forward to FXtracks 9V switches in autumn and eventually their motors.
All of that said, I really need to look into the Powered UP Pybricks script you mentioned, that allows disabling the watchdog.
Idk what it is but your comments keep getting held for review 🤷♂️. At least it keeps me in the habit of checking. The power pickup bogies from FX Bricks look intriguing as well!
This was a good intro to the different Lego train systems! And is that not Wintergatan music I hear in the background? Nice!
It is! I still remember when Martin announced their music would be released for free and could be used in creative projects like RUclips, I was so excited. They are in like 99% of my videos
Amazing video - thank you for going to such lengths to bring us an overview! I myself am a 9V fan, but just recently bought my first 12V set and systems - I have a lot to learn!!
Thanks! I can't wait to take the 12v plunge, one of these days 😁
I'm subscribed so I'll keep en eye out! I'll be documenting my journey just as well - there's just not enough content out there about them!@@BatteryPoweredBricks
3:27 so good to see someone is maintaining compatible track and engines. I had the metro liner set as a kid, and invested in SO much track - however sadly the engine/motor has seized :(
There are a number of 9 volt motors available on BL, a bit price but well worth keeping that metroliner of yours running. I try to keep 2-3 spare 9 volt motors at hand just in case. So far I have only had to replace one. BTW if you ever wish to get rid of the metriliner let me know 😀
I was pleasantly surprised of how well was this video constructed. Also jokes were great. Keep it up!
Thanks! Hoping to do more scripted videos like this in the future for big topics but man are they a lot of work! 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Yeah I know a thing or two about that :D However if you put a work in, the growth on YT is usually exponential, so don't loose strenght! :D
I remember drooling over that train station in the catalogs!
For sure!
Great video and great round up of creators to watch as well!
Thanks! Definitely couldn't have done this alone!
I dreamed of having the 9volt sets when I was a kid in the 90s. Last year I managed to get a lot from a guy who was selling his collection. It was more than I thought, and now I'm so excited to get building. This was great to see, and it gave me some ideas to look at.
I spent so much time as a kid looking at the catalogs with 9v trains in them. Eventually I did buy a 9v train set new, just a simple passenger train. Many years later I got heavy into eBay and started buying more and more. I also have a video showing all of the track layouts that were in the catalogs back in the day. I always wanted to see what they looked like in person and I hadn't seen any other channel take the time to do that. Also if the track contact wires are damaged (as most are) I have a tutorial for repairing them as well! Have fun!
9v Load n haul was my gateway Lego train.
I have noted one very useful thing with the 9v RC motors--you can dual-motor a 9v locomotive quite effectively via an extension wire from the track powered motor's top studs, run through the structure to the other motor. The RC motors perform just as well with that track power, and are a LOT cheaper.
Potentially could use a couple wires, plus another stacked in to add lighting, but I haven't tested that.
Pretty sure I have my first 9v RC motor on its way from a Bricklink order. I feel like I've heard varying opinions on them but I'll try it for myself. As long as it performs ok the only downside is having less axles picking up power from the tracks, but as long as they are pretty clean it shouldn't be an issue
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Yeah, less axles for pickup is a thing, but I also figured one of the advantages is perhaps a bit more traction with the newer wheels (and with axles, you could even add third party wheels with beefier traction tires).
The LEGO train systems from the 80's / 90's is where it's at. I'm thinking the 80's 12v system was the pinnacle. I have a lot (huge amount) of the Power Functions system. As you point out the RC signal can be easily disrupted by sunlight, fluro light and obstacles. But to me it was this era when it felt like Lego didn't take model trains seriously. The tracks available were bare bones if you wanted to make a serious layout. I found the battery compartment were quite picky which batteries you used, especially in the way the 'positive' sat in the battery pack. Anyway I don't look at LEGO stuff on RUclips any more after I had legal threats from very nasty lawyers.
LOL, the intro was great! Great video and overview of the control systems. I like 9V, but I find my self going back to Power Function system. But I have realized that ultimately the future will be Powered Up, at least for me. I have not gotten into the 3rd party systems yet, and the only thing that will probably get me there will be a 9V system with a remote i.e. a DCCS style system. Glad the Trash bag was clean. LOL PS I love FX Bricks 9v Track, and Brick Tracks RC track.
Thanks! The real trick is knowing the best system for a given situation. Hopefully this video can help people make that determination. It took me quite a while to learn all the ins and outs 😅
This was a really great video, thank you for making it :) learned loads!
Thanks! I doubt I'll ever top this video 😅
I had the green freight train RC set, I loved that thing. I remember the power functions system wasn't particularly well loved when it first came out.
Probably true of all systems when they first released
I have an old 9v system that we have been using for the Christmas Tree since my kids were tiny. I haven’t used it for a few years now and when I did this year, the power connectors that connect to the track started melting the insulation. Luckily I had a power functions train motor and was able to swap out the motor in the old set. The power functions battery and IR receiver really bulk up the build. Looking forward to getting the powered up stuff next year. I saw a great tutorial on how to converted the powered up hub to a 9v rechargeable battery and make the whole case smaller.
The wires are easy to fix with only a few tools, no soldering or anything like that. I've seen tutorials for converting PU to use 9v batteries. I might look into it soon. The problem I see is that most rechargeable 9v batteries don't have a very high capacity and are often labeled as having far more than they actually provide
When Search'n'Rescue started playing I had to check the description to make sure my brain wasn't hallucinating, great choice!
I've been waiting for a good opportunity to use some of Slugger's music for a while now. I think it fit in pretty well in this video 😁
Finally watched this after being on vacation for a week - excellent video, very comprehensive overview of all of the systems! Thanks for featuring 12v footage from my channel! Hopefully you can get a small loop of 12v track and a motor soon... then the addiction will kick in, heh heh heh... I mean what, 12v isn't an addiction
"Just one more 12v train... that's all I need... and the box for it... with inner trays..." 😂
@@BatteryPoweredBricks And tray lid... stickersheet too...
Straight slammed the like and watching the whole thing because of that intro! Goated!
I don't think I will ever be able to top it 😅
a few years ago i got one of those old powered rail ones as a gift from my aunt and it is pretty cool it definitely stands out in comparison to the rest of the stuff with that big yellow control wheel.
I spent so much time as a kid drooling over them in the catalogs. I finally got one of the last 9v train sets when I got my first job. It wasn't until the last 2 years or so when I started buying more
@@BatteryPoweredBricks the one i got was set 4558 it was ancient when i got it so there were some missing parts for the trains themselves but other than that i had everything
This is the first video of yours I see, did you just start? you should have 100K subs, you are a talented video maker. I am not really interested in LEGO trains, but the quality of this video makes me want to see more. in other words: great job!
Thanks 😅. I revived the channel about a year and a half ago. This video is by far the most successful video I've made, but I certainly can't make one like it every week, this one took a while. I've also jumped around a bit from Mindstorms, Lego RC and GBC. That tends to hurt the channel overall and it's not uncommon to lose subscribers. I just make the videos I want to make and try to make them as entertaining / informative as possible 😃
I've always been a hardcore simp for Power Functions. No need to worry about shorting out the track or anything, meaning balloon loops are possible, and movable bridges don't require isolation or forcing connections. The third-party accessories for tracks are just so much broader than 9v as well. The one thing that saves PF from being bested by PU's Bluetooth is the cost of PF elements, which is kinda irrelevant because of BuWizz's power bricks having Bluetooth & being compatible with both systems.
That, and PF hits me right in the nostalgia, because of my Horizon Express set
LEGO 9v switches are power-routing on the inside rail, that makes doing a balloon loop with them surprisingly easy if you're willing to get creative. You'd just need to electrically isolate the outside rail within the loop from the rest of the layout, connect the outside rail to power via a double-pole double-throw switch (power functions reversing switch works great), connect the turnout lever to the power reversing switch, and then just remember to stop the train in the loop and change the switch every time the train goes through.
A lot of the problems the 9V guys seem to have have already been solved by the model railroading community.
Power functions is my favourite as well, because it's just so flexible. The ability to use adapters to connect both the PF motors and older 9V motors, use large technic motors hooked up to train controllers and just the very good flexibility of the system makes me like it a lot. Admittedly I haven't tested a lot of Powered Up electronics since I only have the Crocodile, but with some modding it would probably be a good alternative since you don't need a bulky IR receiver.
The 12v system was the best: hands down. I spenf all my childhood playing with those trains. Some of them are now 40 years old and they are still running.
It was certainly an amazing system. Since this video I've been stocking up on 12v parts for a simple layout, but I still need a motor and train 😅. I do have a decent bit of track and a couple power transformers
@@BatteryPoweredBricks 7730, 7740, and 7760 are great. I think there is a guy in Canada selling those, if you google.
after I get the flood mess cleaned up, ill get back into the videos and trains , this gave me some insight into get my butt going again. also I like all the version of control so far, they all has +/- as you have said buddy.
oh man hate to hear that. Just after I moved to a new place I had issues with water but it was never more than an inch or so. Hope you get things sorted soon!
Gotta love the intro!! Did I create a trend?! I also need to create the cool large train setups like you
Answer the question in the first 15 seconds 😁. My setups feel small after seeing some being posted in my Discord 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks your intro was amazing! And yes I feel like no matter how large our setups get there is always a bigger one haha
Great video references... A keeper!❤
Amazing video, I love the use of wintergatan as well, love their music
Thanks! I as very excited when Martin announced they were allowing the use of their music 😀 It's featured in most of my videos
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Yeah, I like to feature their music in as many ways as I can
This was very exciting! Thanx!
Thanks for watching!
I don't know if you missed it, but the biggest advantage to Power Functions is the ability to motorize highly-accurate steam locomotive models.
It was intentionally left out, I just wanted to cover the base systems using train motors. Steam locomotives can be motorized with Powered Up as well, you just have to use the PU app or PyBricks. It's something I'll get around to covering at some point, but I want more experience first
I've still got a huge bucket full of 12v centre rail Lego train stuff... I really liked the "piano" style controls for the accessories. Very tidy and simple to use. I had a gated crossing, 2 point motors, and a signal. I think thats all I had anyway.
And a working C battery 4.5v battery train system from before that... 80's stuff. Also had a signal and a reverser for that too. Signal raised a little bar between the tracks that pushed in a button under the motor and cut off power, and the reverser flipped the forward/reverse switch built into the battery box.
Dang, i feel old now.
The 12v system is great! I'd have a bunch if it wasn't so hard to come by! I would mind some 4.5v stuff either
My grandparents still have multiple sets of the 12v stuff in the attic. As well as more old lego sets. It's all 80's stuff my mom and aunt used to play with.
Old 9 or 12v is best!
12V has most beautiful trains, and best controlls. 9V AC driven has nicest looking tracks.. Gray and silver ist just so nice. 9V power functions are very practical but the trains are absolutely terrible. Here, solved it ;-)
3:01 What!? This looks awesome!
I just hope they release it in my lifetime! 😅
So, I’ve been getting into making custom Lego trains lately. Recently, I started setting up a model track. I have the blue cargo train with the Power Function system. I had no idea they stopped making them, as I bought the train an extremely long time ago. I feel old now lol
Great vid and very informative! Loved hearing Sluggers music in the background ahahaha.
Thanks 😁 I've been waiting for a segment that felt right with his music
3:47 Atlas, the manufacturer of model O, HO, and N scale track, produce electrical components to make 2 Rail reverse loops easy to install. I bet it would be easy to adapt all kinds of model railroading tech to LEGO train systems. Atlas also publishes “How-To” books for beginners that go into detail about 2 rail wiring.
Cool! I'll have to check them out. I've seen some solutions here and there for Lego but until I can get dedicated power pickup bogies I'll just stick to using reversing loops on my Powered Up trains
80s Grey era HANDS DOWN
You're not alone in that opinion
Thank you very much for this video. So much valuable information.
No worries, this was one of my favorite videos to make
There is passion and there is power!@@BatteryPoweredBricks
With the Power Functions, Lego also released a Rechargable Battery Box.
Ah good point. Although after all these years they are very hard / expensive to find 😬. Maybe I shouldn't tempt people with what they can't have 😅
1:51 4558 is called Euro Express? But we called it Metroliner?
It was sold under many names in different countries. It will always be the Metroliner to me since I grew up in the US
Very useful video - thanks!
Thanks for watching!
The RC trains were the first ones I had contact with, once I got a job and was able to start getting into the hobby. The main advantage to them is that they don't require line-of-sight to operate, unlike the Power Functions ones that followed, nor do you need to fiddle with pairing or phones like the Powered Up ones. The secondary advantage is that these were the first to include a horn sound, which was quite loud and which operated from the remote itself regardless of whether a train was operating or not. As you can imagine, it could be used to scare the crap out of others :|
However, you pay a pretty big price for it:
- The Remotes essentially have only 3 channels, so if you have more than 3 trains, tough tamales (the RC aspect even works against you there, as you need a considerable distance if you want to use a separate remote for 3 other trains, otherwise the signal just gets sent to whatever chassis units are using the same channel);
- There is no battery-box, the locomotive chassis is one large, integrated piece that has both the radio receiver and batteries, so if you, let's say, forget a bunch of batteries in it and they corrode and destroy the contacts, you're pretty much screwed as the whole thing is rendered useless;
- Because of the integrated chassis, the only other locomotives you can build out of it are other large locomotives with 2 carriage-sets, so you can't use it to make smaller models.
I do have some of the RC series parts. The train base with battery box and receiver built in and the RC remote. IIRC both have battery corrosion that needs cleaned and I don't have any of the pieces to build the trains from that era. At this point I don't really see the need since other channels have covered them and shown how they work. In upcoming videos I'll be using a TON of PU trains at once and even combining them to pull heavy loads. With PyBricks I think PU is my system of choice for the majority of my trains, with some 9 volt thrown in for good measure
That 12v system looks really cool. I wish they would bring that back. Also, the current system needs rechargeable batteries and a way to charge it without taking the train apart. Seems weird that thy have not done that. They could partner with a battery company so they don't have to make thrown batteries. I will stick with my 9V system unless somehow that 12V system was revamped and re-released. I do think I need one of those crash T tracks though :).
Or if you having a steady model for example of music, sirens there has to be a constant power to the motor in order to play the song and then you have to be the buttons that can charge the dampers
really cool to hear wintergatan in the back!
They are in pretty much all my videos 😁 props to them for allowing its use 👍
Yay! Always wanted to know, why I haven’t seen much of RC systems, as I had one as a kid)))
This was really cool! The train could go super-fast, falling off the rails not even on the last speed mode😅
It was a "play feature" 😅 full speed ahead!
There something called an "Atlas Selector" that basically works just like the signal on the lego 12v system (7860, If you want to look into it). If you pair it up with 5-6 9v GM transformers (9v transformers don't work, as they don't have screw terminals) can give you a feel for how the 12v system works and could, you know, get you into it.
Also, O gauge Rail Joiners are necesary.
I love to see that kind of stuff, for myself I stick to mostly Lego solutions. I will be dabbling in Lego 12v eventually 😁
@@BatteryPoweredBricks In the span of exactly 22 hours, I made it possible to wire it up with 9v transformers by removing the track connectors, then connecting the wires themselves to the Selector and using copper tape to connect the Selector to the track using @BrickRevolution's method right here ruclips.net/video/CH3wwNFm7eQ/видео.html.
Great intro 😂
Thanks 😁
The RC train was my first one. Still own this set! Also have the powerfunctions snd powerd up trains!
I have both RC Train Sets
A very good overview, thanks.
The newest train control thing Generation isn't really cool because the battery gets empty fast.
So i like the older generations much better, like the 9 volt Generation, you can use it with your own elecrity, but it's expensive now.
Always a trade off. The Powered Up system works fine for me, with rechargeable batteries but I tend not to run my trains for hours on end. Once I get a broken motor or FxBricks releases a power pickup I'll be able to combine 9v track with the PF or PU system
Power Functions is my favourite and it's what most of my custom trains use as I run my trains in the garden.
Also I don't think you mentioned the PF rechargeable battery which is a life saver.
It's been pointed out I didn't mention the rechargeable PF battery, they are in very limited supply and very expensive as well. So I don't feel too bad about leaving it out of the video 😅
I still have that double crossover collecting dust in the attic somewhere, didn’t know there was money to be made!
They are listed for high prices, idk if anyone is buying them with all the third party alternatives on the market 🤷♂️
I had both RC Trains and i was in love with them cuz i way a kid lmaoo. But sometimes i think about building the trains & a nice track again
Never too old 😁
Actually, in my opinion the 9V-rail system is definitly the best solution for powering the trains. Whats missing is a decent motor system with a smal rechargeable battery and remote function. Using the 9v rail system with permanent 9V, but a smal rechargeble battery would allow smal segments without power in the rails, so you can construct any track design without shorting out.Also you could 3d print any special part you need without worying about having power there, if you combine rechargeble battery and 9V track. Also while permanently powered you might need extra cables to provide enough current, on the other side you could also connect signals, ligning and track switches to the rails. So the number of wires needed are much less than f.e. on the 12V system, if you do the controlls for motors remotely.
In my opinion the best option for remote control would be zigbee. This might be suprising, as I know no one actually discussing it at all for train control (it is more common for house automatisation, esp. ligning like Phillips Hue), but it has some realy nice features. It supports a lot of devices (255), builds a mesh (between all permernent powered devices), is low energy, bi-directional communication (so you actually have feedback) and multiple functions per device. Depending of the implementation, after setup it is even independent of a central hub (which is essential for its original purpose, as you do not want to be unable to controll the light at home just because the gateway does a firmware update or lost internet connection). It is also quite cheap. While sadly I lack the skills for myself, I certanly hope someone might develope something in the future. While model trains often use controlls much smaler, the scale of lego trains actually alow a scale for the controlers which would make DIY soldering much more easy (there are ready to program zigbee modules with 2,54 or 2mm pin spacing and of course cheap h-bridges as modules, so you "only" need to program the module and solder some wires). While Zigbee has a bit of latency, it should be fine for lego trains.
In the interview with Michael Gale mentioned in the video he talked of the possibility of a hybrid track / battery powered system. If it is something FxBricks plans to tackle I wouldn't think it would be any time soon. Product development takes a very long time. I've seen many custom solutions involving electronics / micro-controllers over the years. It's always interesting to see
Mine (in the 1980's) had plastic tracks, with a (removable) double metal rail in between. The intersections (straight and split) had fixed metal parts.
Amazing to see what is possible nowadays. Thx.
The 12v system in the 80's was just awesome. I hope to get some one day
The separate metal tracks is one of the things that made 12 volt a bit....pesky.
Growing up I had the two City RC trains, the passenger and freight. Both of them are currently in pieces tho. As of now I currently have on PF train, the blue freight hauler to be exact.
Question about the yellow and blue passenger train ("Powered Up" series). You use the right remote buttons to switch the front lights on and off, but our train doesn't have working lights. Is this an aftermarket accessory?
Yes it's Lego Part # 88005, they are currently out of stock online and in my local Lego store, but may have them in others. They are available on Bricklink under part # 22168c01. The newer green passenger train came with them by default
@@BatteryPoweredBricks ahh thanks !!
the accessories in 12v were clearly the best, and I say this as a 9v fan.
I adore 9v, but... track availability is an issue (although 3rd party track is becoming easier to get).
"It's 9v. Thanks for watching" 👍💗
I'm making more and more progress on making 9v just as good as 12v 😀. Remotely controlling switches was easy and I have several solutions I like, it's things like decoupling that I haven't nailed down yet 😅. There are some good solutions out there but I haven't put a lot of time into experimenting yet
I think this video deservers an update with the 12V system
Well the video does say it focuses on the "three most recent and widely used systems" which is still true. Even with all the 12v stuff I have now I am far from having a complete set of accessories. So really folks should just follow the link to check out Reker1000000 anyway
I agree with all the positive comments. Best video ever. Best 15 sec video. 😂
The level of 3rd party acceptance in the Lego train community makes me wonder how GBC would be impacted if 3rd party components were also widely used.
Thanks! Quality over quantity, no one watches past 15 seconds anyway 😂. Yeah Lego gives train fans little choice but to look elsewhere 😅
Wintergatan🤘❤️ cool vid, keep up the good work
Thanks! Always Wintergatan 😁 They had just announced they were allowing the use of their music when I revived the channel
I totally agree!
Wait... on which part 😅
I wish #LEGO reintroduced power rails but change how power is circulated with providing numerous low current options such as third and fourth rails, catenaries, and old 4.5V/12V-style power rails modified to be powered in sections whenever a train bogie is present like #Alstom’s APS. Also, I wish #LEGO introduced multiple train propulsion options in addition to the standard rotary electric motor such as miniature pneumatic engines and electric linear motors.
It seems over time Lego has just been trying to simplify things. I'm glad to see FX Bricks looking to fill some of those gaps in the 9v system
putting batteries in trains was a huge fail by lego imo. i do hope that someone creates a digital system that's powered off the wall like 9V but, since it's digital, can handle several trains on one track etc, just like "normal" model train sets. seems like 12V was the best with the remotely controlled switches and since then it got worse. i love the 9V system and have a few trains of that time (including that grey metro liner one) but i'd love to replace the controllers and motors for digital controllers and motor modules with decoders and controllable outputs for lights etc. could also add roller modules that don't have a motor but take power from the tracks to control a crane or just the lights in a cart
Seems like FXBricks has that in mind. Their train motors have special features that would make them more friendly to adding a DCC system. That could be a ways off before they make them available. They are hoping for some time next year but these products have been in development for years
@@BatteryPoweredBricks yeah, ive already heard years ago that they wanna add motors and stuff but havent seen anything yet beside the tracks, so i have no idea if they even still work on it
They released a blog in June of this year that detailed plans for the electric components. They say the 9v connector is the single toughest component to make and has been retooled several times but is getting close. That has been holding back many of the other electrical items. I'm eagerly awaiting any updates but also not holding my breath it will be anytime soon
@BatteryPoweredBricks oooh, thats awesome. But what is the 9v connector? The pieces that connect to the rails? Or the 2x2 2/3rd brick that was used in the 90s for connecting things electrically?
They are doing both, the part that connects to the tracks has been final for ages now. If you want to see for yourself go to their website and click on blog at the top, It's the second one down. It's quite long and has some really exciting stuff they are working on
6:31 is that bit in Reverse?
Actually yeah, some of those were shot in reverse so they would be straight instead of trying to line them up perfectly as I sat them down
The RC system trains were my introduction to lego trains, still have my ICE and also the other one but it fell off a shelf years ago and i never restored it
Oh no, any broken pieces or just needs reassembled? I have an RC train base I got in a lot but never had any of the trains
2:50 big alice is that you?
I am very much a fan of power functions just for the controller alone. The powered up has a shitty controller, and 9V is not only harder to get parts for, but also harder to get custom parts for.
The 9V putting so much hardware off the train is nice, but unofficial and easier to access tracks and being able to independently control trains on the same track is nice
I wouldn't have been happy with the Powered Up system without PyBricks. I do know some folks that still prefer the PF system though
I was wondering if youre where gonna mention the rc one i actually got the passenger train loved it still have all the pieces and track the tracks have seen better days tho
It's brief but I made sure to mention it. I have some of the components but not a complete set of them, luckily I had some friends who allowed use of their footage of the system
What a great video!
I personally have a 12 volts layout but Im also used to 9 volts because my friend has some. In my opinion power funktions is the best.
There are certainly a lot of Lego train fans that prefer Power Functions. It's my least favorite system personally but everyone will have different needs / goals. I'd love to get into 12v trains at some point but the cost is far too high at the moment
Me, who didn't know there was this many kinds of lego electronics: 👁👄👁
and this is just for trains 😁
ty
The next big thing would be wireless power or, depending on how efficient the motors are, ambient light power.
i only clicked at the video to comment 9V, thankfully the video made that clear in the first 12 seconds
Time is valuable! The full video is worth watching though 😅
I was very confused when you seemed to be referring to the 4.5V trains as “12V”. But then I realized that since the 12V system was never released in the US, I hadn’t realized it was different from the 4.5V system (which my sibling had when we were kids).
So there’s one more system, which ran at basically the same time. (Looks like the last 4.5V trains were 1985 and the last 12V were 1986, and they both started in the late ‘60s.)
I have some 4.5v parts but not enough to make a complete train and even less 12v 😅 I'll get around to getting them some day
Actually the 4.5V and the 12V system were the same for normal tracks. The 12V system was an additional power track in the middle. Of course for switches and crossing the track was special, as you couldn't just add the power track afterwards.
As a kid I had the blue 4,5 V tracks. I upgraded to 12V later. One problem of course was never enough crosses and swiches. So I learned about law of physics, esp. inertia: If you drive the train fast enough at a switch, it does not mater if it has power rails, the train still moves over it by inertia (or it derails of course...).
Sadly shortly after beginning to upgrade, Lego changed to gray rails...
Of course living in Germany where most real world tracks have catenary systems, I always whished for lego to implement that. Saidly they never did...
I love that ive got the RC- system. But in all honesty that dont matter to me. Had a blast playing with it and i still got it. how ever ive since gone smaller to 1/160
I had the 9V cargo train when i was a kid.
Good overview! I've got a largish layout which uses 9V track (hard to find straights, especially if you care about new dark bley versus old dark grey). So, I can run all 3 styles. I do have the freight RC train, but the engine is so heavy that it can't even pull a couple of cars over a turnout pair (wheels slip). I have full 9V dual-powered Metroliner and Santa Fe, plus one freight engine. I have the blue/yellow PF engine dual powered (I just flipped the center two wires of one motor connector), and it is my most powerful engine - with care I can pull 14 cars around my layout, which has hills. I've got 3 freight PoweredUp trains as well, and they are not bad for pulling. I do wish Lego would make a rechargeable PoweredUp Hub - replacing the batteries is a royal pain. I have 3 of the rechargeable Power Functions battery boxes, and one is in my blue/yellow dual-powered PF engine. I got them fairly early on from Shop @ Home, so they weren't tooooo expensive.
The local Lego group does a local train show each year. Depending on who is organizing it, it can be full DCC track. Some of the members build larger, detailed cars, and their trains need a pair of "consist"ed engines to pull them. They also have some small round rare-earth magnets that they insert between the Lego ones for more grip. I don't have any DCC myself, other than one engine with decoder inserted that can be used at the show. As you can see from my not-so-good videos, I do not build anywhere as much as I should. Other things take up my time.
I've heard good things about the third party KeyBrick rechargeable battery for PU hubs. They are fairly expensive, but still cheaper then buying used PF rechargeable batteries and won't be 10+ years old
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Given how rarely I actually run trains, the expense isn't currently worth it. I basically charge up all 3 PU hub NiMHs when someone is coming to look at the layout. Next is a couple of weeks, I think.
Oh, and I completely understand the pain of the time needed to make a video. That's why mine are not very good. If I can just glue together clips from my camera/phone, that's not too bad, but captions, etc......
Same here. I have over 100 rechargeable NiMH AAA's that I use. I just need them to last long enough to make a video 😁
For me making / editing videos is a big part of the hobby, maybe moreso than Lego itself. I just let RUclips autogenerate the captions and hope for the best 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Hmm. Clearly I'll have to look into what the RUclips Creator stuff can do for me!
I want to build a Lego train, nothing fancy in terms of rails, just want to to do a simple loop with the train just moving the same forward direction, what would be a good motor system for something like that? (and if there are better 3rds party ones I'm all for that too)
The third party stuff is cheap but I can't think of a single one I would recommenced. I would keep an eye out on eBay, Mercari or other online marketplaces and look for deals on a complete set. It's probably the about same price as trying to buy some track, a power system and train wheels / buffers separately. I see some good deals pop up fairly often. If you are a discord user you can join ours and if anyone comes across a good deal they can let you know. They are also really good about answering questions and giving advice
Great video. Looks like, I have to make sure 9v monorail survives.
It survives here too, but I would consider it a separate system from the train systems
Power Functions System has a Official rechargable battery box of the same size of the AAA battery box, with the ability to build a 4way cross via the 1/4 track pieces. 3rd party "S Brick" gave Power Functions the abilities of Powered Up years beforehand, as well as expanding the ability to control multiple motors.
Yeah I should have mentioned the rechargeable PF battery, but all I would have had to say is "I don't have one and good luck finding your own at a decent price" 😅. I also wonder how much their capacity has diminished over the 10-15 years since they were manufactured. I do have a couple SBricks I could try with trains but for this video I wanted a broad overview of the official Lego systems. I'm pretty sure FX Bricks has a device that is similar as well.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I use eneloop in the normal battery box and it works fine