It is a genuine shame with all the K/O lego stuff out there, nobody knocks off the old 9v system. The brick connection system is just an aesthetically better fit with Lego.
Well FxBricks is working on it but idk if knock-off is the right word. They will be expensive but I've heard the quality on their products so far is second to none! I do really wish there was a cheap place to find the connectors from a third party
Thank you for making these 9v videos. I’m currently working on my own 9v video projects and you are an inspiration! I re-soldered a motor I bought that turned out broken, with success, thanks to your videos! Probably should have filmed it… oh well! Lol
Great video, I make a 9volt power pickup also that works great so you dont need to buy 9 volt motors anymore. You seem pretty handy, so you could even just buy my wheels and make your own, and you can even use power ups motors.
I've seen your 9v pickup wheelsets, I know at least one member in my discord that bought a set. I keep my eye out for 9v motors all the time and have found many for $40-$50 so it's actually a bit cheaper and these wheels are already powered. I know it costs a lot to make them and your time is valuable, I'm not complaining about the cost. I'm glad the option is out there for folks. I imagine FxBricks pickups could cost a similar amount when they finally release them. Beyond that I don't have the space for a large dedicated layout so my layouts are temporary. I don't mind using batteries for my PU + Pybricks locomotives. I've built trains with 3 powered locomotives, each with dual motors which would require a lot of pickups / wiring vs just using rechargeable batteries
I approve! LOL Those older battery/remote/powered motors where not good. I have a few of them, and used them in some dual motor setups, they work ok, but but you know something is getting worn out faster then the other.
I still prefer the polarity switch method. Works great for my needs, which happens to be only for my Horizon Express locomotives. Everything else is working fine on one motor per locomotive, with the exception of my BNSF. Said BNSF GP-38 sadly has one good motor and one bad motor. Mind you, that bad motor will kick in after a few good laps around my 10x14 for Utah shaped track, but for the first ten or so laps it’s only got power to one motor. In fact, that’s why it has the bad motor, since it needs a long push to re-spark, the second motor does just that. Rockatoa, Brickticks out!
Yes, all my motors are 9 volters, except for the two on the Horizon Express that are PF powered by 9V via polarity switch. If it is the resettable fuse, how would I know, and how would I go about fixing it? I admit, I know it isn’t the track, as usually the Super Chief runs first, and that usually cleans off the tracks. It just sorta stutters when it first powers up, requiring pushing for multiple laps around the 10x14 foot Utah shaped loop to get it going and keep it going. Once it’s off, it’s off, but getting it started is the hard part.
I just released a video a couple weeks ago fixing a 9v motor with a bad fuse. It's a metallic silver disk near the motor. I almost didn't notice it! They are kind of a pain to get the motors apart, I cut the tabs way too much and it doesn't stay together well now. I've heard from folks that you can pry it apart while keeping the tabs but it is quite the process. I've also seen a lot of people just bypass the fuse altogether to fix their motors.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Oh, I don't think I really want to try opening up my poor old motors. The tabs holding on the bottom will be way too brittle. Oh well. Thanks for the advice, guess I'll keep the video in mind if the issue gets worse. Hmm, do you know of anywhere I could send it to get fixed? Preferably somewhere reliable, with good service, and an honest reputation.
That little yellow disk attached to the motor looks to be a ceramic capacitor, they're fairly important to the smooth running of the motor and reducing impedance
That would be correct. To be specific, it is a bidirectional capacitor, which shouldn't be confused with the electrolytic capacitor that only allows power to flow one way.
15:05 I've seen people use a lighter, but I've also seen people just turn on their soldering iron and rub all over the tubing with the broadside of the iron 😂
That's exactly what I need for my new train. I still have some PF motors and instead of buying another 9V, I will take one of the two from my Rheingold and replace it with a PF motor.^^ The only thing that I need to do in addition is grinding down the studs from the 9V connector because I don't use a train baseplate on my trains, which is flat on the bottom, but normal plates. Thanks for the video!^^ Btw., are you using ball bearings with your steel axles from the wagons? If not, you should! It will reduce rolling resistance drastically.😉
The 9v connectors are usually from lots on eBay, Mercari or goodwill auctions. I've been stock piling for many years when I see them in lots. The PF train motors were from Bricklink
Dumb question maybe, but if you're taking apart the motor, why not just flip the white gears so the same polarity makes the wheels go the opposite direction?
The PF wires just don't work as well trying to snap them into 9v connectors, believe me I've tried. There are several solutions but the method shown in the video is my preferred method
@@BatteryPoweredBricks thanks for the reply. Maybe one day but for now I only use plastic track so my old 9 volt will stay boxed until there is more SPACE in my head to start projects that need dubble the power. Grtz, SG from Belgium
The new Powered Up motors are very different inside. I haven't compared the speed of the PU motors to 9v but in my experience the PF motors are cheaper anyway. When using PU motors I just use a PU hub and PyBricks
This mod is more to simplify the wiring more than just reversing the motor. I don't remember if swapping the gears is possible, the case may be molded in a way that would prevent that. For simply reversing motors I just buy replacement PF connectors and snap them on upside down, it literally takes 10 seconds, but I realize not everyone has these connectors on hand.
Not sure what you mean exactly, there are a few options out there like using an extension cable AND a 9v cable to be able to reverse the polarity. There are also a few ways to reverse the motors internally as well
It is a genuine shame with all the K/O lego stuff out there, nobody knocks off the old 9v system. The brick connection system is just an aesthetically better fit with Lego.
Well FxBricks is working on it but idk if knock-off is the right word. They will be expensive but I've heard the quality on their products so far is second to none! I do really wish there was a cheap place to find the connectors from a third party
In China 9 V motors are prohibitively expensive while power function motors are actually very cheap. You can get one for about four dollars each.
Thank you for making these 9v videos. I’m currently working on my own 9v video projects and you are an inspiration! I re-soldered a motor I bought that turned out broken, with success, thanks to your videos! Probably should have filmed it… oh well! Lol
Always glad to help, thanks for the comment!
Great video, I make a 9volt power pickup also that works great so you dont need to buy 9 volt motors anymore. You seem pretty handy, so you could even just buy my wheels and make your own, and you can even use power ups motors.
I've seen your 9v pickup wheelsets, I know at least one member in my discord that bought a set. I keep my eye out for 9v motors all the time and have found many for $40-$50 so it's actually a bit cheaper and these wheels are already powered. I know it costs a lot to make them and your time is valuable, I'm not complaining about the cost. I'm glad the option is out there for folks. I imagine FxBricks pickups could cost a similar amount when they finally release them.
Beyond that I don't have the space for a large dedicated layout so my layouts are temporary. I don't mind using batteries for my PU + Pybricks locomotives. I've built trains with 3 powered locomotives, each with dual motors which would require a lot of pickups / wiring vs just using rechargeable batteries
Really smart idea, so simple but so effective! Definitely going to use this!
This certainly was informative and entertaining! Thanks!
I approve! LOL Those older battery/remote/powered motors where not good. I have a few of them, and used them in some dual motor setups, they work ok, but but you know something is getting worn out faster then the other.
Always use fresh solder, even when desoldering, it makes life a lot easier!
I still prefer the polarity switch method. Works great for my needs, which happens to be only for my Horizon Express locomotives. Everything else is working fine on one motor per locomotive, with the exception of my BNSF.
Said BNSF GP-38 sadly has one good motor and one bad motor. Mind you, that bad motor will kick in after a few good laps around my 10x14 for Utah shaped track, but for the first ten or so laps it’s only got power to one motor.
In fact, that’s why it has the bad motor, since it needs a long push to re-spark, the second motor does just that.
Rockatoa, Brickticks out!
Hmm that's odd. Is it a 9v motor or something else? If it is it could be the resettable fuse like the motor I fixed in a video a couple weeks ago
Yes, all my motors are 9 volters, except for the two on the Horizon Express that are PF powered by 9V via polarity switch.
If it is the resettable fuse, how would I know, and how would I go about fixing it?
I admit, I know it isn’t the track, as usually the Super Chief runs first, and that usually cleans off the tracks. It just sorta stutters when it first powers up, requiring pushing for multiple laps around the 10x14 foot Utah shaped loop to get it going and keep it going. Once it’s off, it’s off, but getting it started is the hard part.
I just released a video a couple weeks ago fixing a 9v motor with a bad fuse. It's a metallic silver disk near the motor. I almost didn't notice it! They are kind of a pain to get the motors apart, I cut the tabs way too much and it doesn't stay together well now. I've heard from folks that you can pry it apart while keeping the tabs but it is quite the process. I've also seen a lot of people just bypass the fuse altogether to fix their motors.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Oh, I don't think I really want to try opening up my poor old motors. The tabs holding on the bottom will be way too brittle. Oh well. Thanks for the advice, guess I'll keep the video in mind if the issue gets worse.
Hmm, do you know of anywhere I could send it to get fixed? Preferably somewhere reliable, with good service, and an honest reputation.
Cool setup
That little yellow disk attached to the motor looks to be a ceramic capacitor, they're fairly important to the smooth running of the motor and reducing impedance
That would be correct. To be specific, it is a bidirectional capacitor, which shouldn't be confused with the electrolytic capacitor that only allows power to flow one way.
That shrink tube is easy to forget....
Lovely! Well done!
Good job.
15:05 I've seen people use a lighter, but I've also seen people just turn on their soldering iron and rub all over the tubing with the broadside of the iron 😂
That's exactly what I need for my new train. I still have some PF motors and instead of buying another 9V, I will take one of the two from my Rheingold and replace it with a PF motor.^^ The only thing that I need to do in addition is grinding down the studs from the 9V connector because I don't use a train baseplate on my trains, which is flat on the bottom, but normal plates. Thanks for the video!^^
Btw., are you using ball bearings with your steel axles from the wagons? If not, you should! It will reduce rolling resistance drastically.😉
I have not used ball bearings at all. I don't want to know how much that would cost / how long it would take to convert all of my rolling stock 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I'll do it only with my heavy rolling stock were it's needed.^^
Great job
Where do you buy Lego power functions motors an 9 volt connecters? 3:28
The 9v connectors are usually from lots on eBay, Mercari or goodwill auctions. I've been stock piling for many years when I see them in lots. The PF train motors were from Bricklink
You could have used a 9v cable as a polarity switch by connecting it sideways to the PF adapter instead of the PF switch no need do modify anything
Yes that is something I meant to say in the video but forgot to
Dumb question maybe, but if you're taking apart the motor, why not just flip the white gears so the same polarity makes the wheels go the opposite direction?
Not a dumb question, I see no reason why that wouldn't work...
Power Functions and 9V have different connectors, so that still needs to be replaced unless you want add an adapter cable.
That was mentioned in discord, I'll have to take another look and see if it works!
If you don't want to open the motor, is it possible to just rewire from the existing wire and connect that to a 9-volt?
The PF wires just don't work as well trying to snap them into 9v connectors, believe me I've tried. There are several solutions but the method shown in the video is my preferred method
@@BatteryPoweredBricks thanks for the reply. Maybe one day but for now I only use plastic track so my old 9 volt will stay boxed until there is more SPACE in my head to start projects that need dubble the power.
Grtz,
SG from Belgium
good job, does it work with the latest power function motors (88011) ? Thanks
The new Powered Up motors are very different inside. I haven't compared the speed of the PU motors to 9v but in my experience the PF motors are cheaper anyway. When using PU motors I just use a PU hub and PyBricks
Thanks for your response, keep it up
Ahh.. what if you just flip the to gears.. then you do not neat to do any wire. ?
This mod is more to simplify the wiring more than just reversing the motor. I don't remember if swapping the gears is possible, the case may be molded in a way that would prevent that. For simply reversing motors I just buy replacement PF connectors and snap them on upside down, it literally takes 10 seconds, but I realize not everyone has these connectors on hand.
Couldn't you just use th3 end of one 0f those extension wires?
Not sure what you mean exactly, there are a few options out there like using an extension cable AND a 9v cable to be able to reverse the polarity. There are also a few ways to reverse the motors internally as well
Why does power functions have 4 wires if the motor only uses 2?
I explain it more in another video but the other two wires are to provide a constant 9v supply for IR receivers and servo motors
@ makes sense
I fix it kit shown
(not sponsored) 😅
Pivot!