Clutch quadrant, firewall adjuster, cable install & Adjustment Ford Mustang 79-04 Cobra, GT, V6
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
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Steeda clutch quadrant kit amzn.to/3s2CvKE
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The concepts performed in all videos from Danny Johnson are for demonstration purposes only and are not guaranteed in any way as I am not a certified mechanic. The viewer holds the responsibility to research these procedures and perform them at his/her own risk.
Due to factors beyond the control of Danny Johnson, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Danny Johnson assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Danny Johnson recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Danny Johnson, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Danny Johnson. Always take proper safety precautions, including, but not limited to, wearing safety glasses, removing jewelry, properly securing the vehicle on jack stands, etc. 
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I know this video doesn't have many views but it's a life saver!! I'm planning on doing this job this weekend and this is top tier content
Always happy to get your notifications you put up a new video!
Great video. I'm planning on this and seeing your video puts me at ease about doing this now. Thanks for making it and sharing it.
Another great video Danny! About to do this to my 04 Cobra. Thanks for the instructions, you the man!
My only thought is I like the fiore micro click firewall adjuster on my mach 1 a little better since it spins and stops in increments, rather than simply unthreads. I don’t know if they sell them anymore.
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed it!
You and Justin sound almost identical, but not quite, being twins, no surprise
You guys are some of my favorite channels 👍🏼
Really helpful video, Danny! Thank you for making it available.
Awesome video Danny great explanation 👍
Maximum motorsports is quality for sure. 😁
That’s a nice upgrade that my 03 could probably use about now, thanks.
I installed the Steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster kit last year with a new cable and it has been a really nice feature to have
Thanks Danny ❤
Excelent video my guy !!
Mine got the double hook quadrant and firewall adjuster from Steeda last summer, also had a new OEM clutch cable to go in with it. What a difference it made going with that set up over stock. Plus I'll be getting it back soon with the RTX clutch so it should be a really good set up going forward.
Which hook did you use on your Steeda quadrant. I think I went with the suggestion of the directions which was the first hook.
@@2vcrew782 I’m not positive I’ll have to look when I get the car back later this week. I had them put the quadrant on when it was in for a return fuel system and supercharger upgrade
@@Lethal_Venom Nice! Sounds like your in for some fun man. Enjoy!
@@2vcrew782 Thanks! The supercharger was some last year it’s in for a new clutch and 26 spline input shaft now. I’m still getting used to the power level because I didn’t have it back long before putting it up for the winter last year
Have the same one great choice 👍🏻
Good video bro.
Thank you 🙏
Did this install and learn some things. 1) the steeda kit cable will not fit on fork on 2003 Mach 1, had to uninstall new cable and reinstall old one SMH. Also with the Mach1 engine there is less room for the wall adjuster, do not unscrew the adjuster to install. I could not screw together the adjuster after It was in the fire wall.had to undo all that stuff too.
Mines UPR, works good
I did the Steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster. Came out great. I’ve never had issues with the throw out bearing making noise but I do make minor firewall adjustments depending on my driving style
After making this post 3w ago my cable broke today 😆. It broke right in front of the quadrant where it goes through the aluminum firewall adjuster. It has a few strands left holding it. I was able to make it home luckily after hearing the familiar pop sound when I pushed the clutch in. I think it’s been rubbing the adjuster and unlike the engine bay side the inside has a sharp edge
@@2vcrew782 would you still recommend this after cable snap ?
@@davoinshowerhandle3302 Absolutely. The cable snapped because it was a cheap Chinese cable. I noticed I had the cable end not seated all the way on the quadrant causing it to rub, but otherwise the firewall adjuster is a must for me
@@davoinshowerhandle3302Update: I had my throw out bearing blow apart so I pulled the transmission and did McLeod Street Clutch kit and Ford Performance throw out bearing and Ford Performance adjustable cable. Like it a lot with 500 miles on it
The previous owner put a tko500 in this Cobra, now I'm going through the motions wondering why all this looks different. Rip
Have you ever done a hydraulic conversion? I have the Modern Driveline setup with the Tilton bearing that I'm putting in soon.
What size bolts are for the firewall adjuster ?
Hoping my factory quadrant lasts as long as possible.
Danny, at the 830 ish mark it looks like you have the spacer installed on the quandrant side of the cable. And then a few seconds later it looks as if you removed it. Did you end up not using it? And if so, why ? I have the same setup on my new edge and am having issues. Thanks man.
great video, thank you. what is the advantage of the aftermarket quadrant?
It allows you to adjust the distance and pressure of the throwout bearing as the clutch ages and wears. The stock quadrant has a ratcheting plastic mechanism and that has to be replaced with the new quadrant
My son changed his clutch cable on 99 mustang and now it turns over but won’t start and it keeps blowing a fuse
My clutch has a high bite and should turn it counter-clockwise out to lower the bite point
Good video but you can have quiet a bit of pressure on your TOB depending on ur clutch setup
Don’t put too much preload or you’ll burn it up
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I have a 99 cobra and the clutch doesn’t fully engage so it grinds into gear or won’t let me into gear sometimes and it just had a new clutch put in it. I just bought it like that , would doing this fix my problem or is it something else ?
This should help provided they put the correct clutch in. You’ll want to see if the clutch gets full travel. You’ll feel it collapse when it makes its full travel. Be careful when under the car. You’ll want several Jack stands and a Jack. You don’t want to ruin the transmission by grinding, so the sooner the better
Got the steeda kit from your description. But more I read people say I need an oem cable. Seems like there is no such thing anymore? I have the steeda adjustable cable in. Lock tight the end and make sure quadrant is straight. Or should I find new cable.
Yeah, the OEM cable isn’t available. The next closest was the maximum motorsports as you see in the video that used the same company ford used to use for the cables, but I understand they are no longer available either. Lock tite (and maybe an additional nylon nut is probably the best you’ll get
I just went thru the same issue. I was told that the one lmr sells is a ford performance brand but it's adjustable at the clutch fork.
It is not the same as like the other aftermarket cables that bind and break. It fits really nice with no binding.
I used my digital caliper to measure it against the oem and it's almost exact diameter. Now how long it will last guess I'll find out. So far it's been 2 months and still smooth.
Should you feel some vibrating in the clutch pedal, I have tightened mine but not sure how tight it should be? It does shift way better now, just not sure if the vibration. Thanks
You will if the pivot ball or clutch fork are worn. My pedal would flop around on the mach 1 before I fixed it ruclips.net/video/xsLqZE3Fs4Y/видео.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage it has a new pivot ball and fork. Also new clutch and flywheel. How do you know when the cable is tight enough?
@@blkmrk You’ll know it’s tight when the pedal doesn’t have any more play in it, but too tight can have excessive preload on the bearing and heat it up and cause it to wear faster. You can sometimes hear a light chirping sound as the bearing touches the diaphragm fingers. It should be slight tightened until the chirping disappears. The bearing is intended to constantly spin, but not with a lot of load (preload). It should require a pry bar to push the clutch fork forward to get the cable on
So knowing you have multiple new edge mustangs and this is your third clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster video...did you use different brands for each vehicle? If so do you have a preference?
Of all 3 my favorite is the fiore quadrant and micro clock fire wall adjuster with a ford cable. Next I like this one from maximum motorsports, but I’d didn’t like how the firewall adjuster doesn’t click incrementally. Last on my cobra it has Steeda that came with the car, but it’s probably my least favorite. All will work but make sure to get a ford cable
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for the reply. I'll look into Fiore. Can I use the factory cable that's on the car? Mine has less than 15k miles on it.
I was originally considering MM, McLeod, and BBK.
Well I didn't realize Fiore wasn't available on the market anymore. Lol.
I guess I'm between BBK and McLeod, or UPR MAYBEEEE....
after installing my new adjustable Ford performance cable the clutch doesn't want to engage, we tightened it to the max then we put the car in gear with the clutch pedal down and the car doesn't want to roll forward. we also untightened and still the same results. car doesn't wanna roll forward in gear with the pedal down after its been adjusted multiple times.
Tighten the cable with the cable not attached to the clutch fork so you need a pry bar to get the cable on. It probably isn’t tight enough
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage i did that and i had to loosen it because the pedal took to much force to put down i didnt want to snap it
@@vinniemolina4072The clutch fork most likely became loose from the pivot ball
I like this but, I’m having trouble with the cable engaging. It engages almost at the top of the clutch pedal. I have MM cable and steeda clutch quadrant & firewall adjuster. Long story short what year is you mustang? Mines a 03 gt with the tr3650, I did everything you’ve done. But I didn’t use the spacer, I also used the second hook on the quadrant closest to the firewall. I’m going to try to use the second hook and use the spacer, I’m desperate at this point. I just want my car to work again, it’s my daily and I’m struggling with it down for 3 weeks now :(
You can try to further adjust it, but you may need a different hook setup
Bro i feel your pain, Mines engeges at top of pedal travel and if I "loosen" at the firewall adjuster to have the engagement lower to ground my TOB chirps like a mofo
Hi Danny. A bit off subject but I saw a video that warned against buying BBK long tube headers for a new edge mustang saying that the k frame headers would have to come off before the transmission to get to the clutch etc. I just bought a 2003 Black Mach 1 that has BBK LT headers. First off is that true… and secondly would removing all of that apply to changing the throw out bearing? I’m hoping my firewall adjuster is able to get rid of the horrible screeching I was hearing last time I drove it.
Thanks Danny!
You can always try, but with long tube headers and not having the t56 that can be removed from the bell housing, you typically do need to remove at least one side of the headers (or loosen them) in order to get the transmission to come out and clear. Perhaps you could get it to pull away to get in and change just the throwout bearing, but I would strongly recommend a transmission jack and and engine support bar. Here are some videos to watch about it.
ruclips.net/video/lmwfvgziAxs/видео.htmlsi=aQ-gQim1VjIzHRiw
ruclips.net/video/UFr0Rur_EWc/видео.htmlsi=YzwLLOFn_7NDA-6x
Thanks so much for your reply. Btw it’s a non iup 5 speed. 👍
I just replaced everything in my bell housing, clutch cable, and quadrant in my 03 Mach 1 (It was the first car I bought myself) about 2 months ago and it was totaled just yesterday in a 3 car accident… idk why I’m commenting about it but R.I.P. “Just another mustang statistic” :/
So sorry to hear about that. I’m glad you sound to be okay
the is cable the same one you pulled out minus the firewall bushing and cable bracket...
It appears a little different. I heard it’s a ford cable, but maybe a different updated version
Ever since installing a clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster I'm not able to use cruise control...
Same issue for you?
It shouldn’t be effected. Cruise control is located on the throttle body/throttle cable area
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage there's no switch near the quadrant or anything?
Ordered the steeda kit but came with adjustable clutch cable! Should I just use it? I still have original cable
I would try to use the adjustable cable or put some lock tire on the new one since the nuts seem to walk off and loosen
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage lock tight gotcha
I got a new clutch installed and the mechanic added a Steeda cable. Man, this thing is terrible. Heavy and not easy to modulate. I’ve read dry graphite lubricant may help. Does that sound reasonable, or do you suggest just ripping it out and going with an OEM cable? (I know MaximumMotorsports doesn’t seem to sell their kit any more…)
If it’s a new cable, I would think it may be the clutch’s pressure plate for the stiffness. I would try to adjust the clutch cable so it’s just tight enough that you need a pry bar to get it on the clutch fork
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks Danny
Do you have a video on how to take out the driver side valve cover?
About to tackle this Job... 👍... Although content narrated by the Good ol' Boys is always welcomed 😊.....
Unfortunately, only when the engine is out of the car. It helps to remove the brake booster with bolts under the dash. ruclips.net/video/NT5Z5L2wAss/видео.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage you're kidding 😂 my passenger side valve cover is leaking onto my header and I was gonna change both sides gaskets.. looks like I'll be leaving the driver side alone for awhile if it doesn't leak lol
I did the driver valve cover gasket over the summer. A lot of videos say to pull the motor or brake booster, I didn’t have to do either of those, I did have to take out the clutch cable then had to do some wiggle wiggle to get the cover off and back on, it was a little bit of a pain. But I got done in about an hour, and that’s from popping the hood to closing it.
Unless you’re talking on a 2V GT, then yes, I have vids for that ruclips.net/video/mT7FgzzKY8g/видео.html
Why not install a hyd. clutch?
It’s not worth the money to upgrade when the cable works fine- and I’d have to delete leg day at the gym
That mm firewall adjuster don’t work on some mustangs. Its a bit too long. The upr its much better because its wider to illuminate firewall flex
The MM cable fits too snug snug into the firewall adjuster housing...I dont like this because you cant really turn the adjuster without the cable housing also turning with it...
So I installed all of this today and my car will not go into gear.
Did it the clutch cable loop on easily or did you have to press it forward with a pry bar as shown?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage It went on pretty easy. When I take the cable off the clutch fork the fork moves around.. Idk what the problem is. But its driving me nuts. Maybe the fork came off the pivot... Idk.
@@crimsonkings205 they can slide off easy when worn. You can pop it back up and the cable will help hold it up until you can get a new clutch fork installed
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I'll try that. If not the pivot is probably to worn to hold it in place. Thanks man.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage So I have another issue, I think something fell inside the bell housing where the duster cover goes when I changed the cable.. I hear it when I brake hard like its hitting the clutch plate.