This video was extremely helpful. I'm working on a 66 Mustang with T5. I had been guessing at the clutch adjustment and had never thought of jacking it up and seeing exactly where it starts to grab. Turns out the pedal wasn't much more than an inch or so off the floor before the wheels started turning. I backed the adjuster out so the travel was about the same as yours and the operation is much smoother. As a side benefit I also realized my newly-installed performance rear drum brake system was dragging badly. As soon as I put the clutch in the wheels immediately stopped. I adjusted the shoes and it stops great. Thanks.
My 18 year old son just bought a 2003 Mustang GT. He has been driving for a week now at the clutch cable has gone out of adjustment twice... with the help of your video my husband was able to adjust it! My son is sooo happy! So far so good! Thank you
THANK YOU! I just replaced the cable on my 01 Bullitt... I was worried that if the cable was too tight i'd be wearing my throwout barring... I am excited to get back into the garage tomorrow morning (when it's not 115 degrees out) and tighten things up!
Your videos are awesome bro thanks for doing what you do, your EGR delete video helped me out a bunch and this video will be even more useful because I am having clutch cable problems right now.
Nice through job of explaining how the clutch cable works & how to adjust it. I was afraid of "over adjusting" it . Apparently its okay to have a "pre-load" on the throw out bearing. On older Chevys' you never want to have the throw out bearing touching the clutch fingers otherwise it would wear-out the bearing prematurely. This guy would make an EXCELLENT instructor.
Watched this video 2x this has been a heavily discussed topic on the forums, appreciate your simple explanations of the process. Im going to jack up my car this weekend test your theory, and btw that is a beautiful CO cobra.
I was a little short on cash so skipped the adjuster for now, but instead got a mm quadrant with a Ford adjustable cable. I put a little bit of tention on the cable, and now my shifting issues are gone. I think I'll have to put a little more tention on the cable, my car doesn't start to roll until about 2.5 to 3 inches off the floor. Where it's at makes a super long throw when taking off from a stop, but it's a heck of a lot better than grinding gears, especially when trying to put it in reverse.
I just got a new clutch installed. I feel the pedal is a tad squishy, I will adjust the pedal today. I’m used to the pedal far at the top, so I need a good medium. Thanks again, great video
I like to stop on a steep hill and let the car start to roll back, then slowly let the clutch out and see where it's engaging. Good video. I think the clutch forks wear out on the thin metal that holds the tob and cause shifting issues. I just bought a new clutch fork along with a new clutch and bearing. I bought the firewall adjuster and quadrant too a little while back. I think the tob is what causes the worst or smoothest clutch feel. I have read too that some guys put white lithium grease on the cable and run the cable back and forth to feed it in so the cable doesn't saw away at the cable housing and moves smoother.
Great video! However the quadrant doesn't have "adjustments" the hook on the end is for cables without a firewall adjuster and the one further back is for the adjusters to be used.
So the firewall adjuster with out the lock screw are ok ?? Did u put washer on ur quadrant to push it out some so u want ur quadrant as close to the clips that hold it on to the clutch pedal??
Just recently bought a 03 cobra with a spec clutch and firewall adjuster with new clutch cable it’s really hard to shift almost to the point where I can’t enjoy it feels great when it’s not in motion not sure what’s wrong.
Great video, will definitely utilize some of the knowledge you shared when installing my Steeda clutch cable kit (firewall adjuster, quadrant, + cable). Currently on the stock equipment, and the clutch is catching close to the floor with a wicked stiff pedal.
So I have a 87 mustang 5.0 5 spd manual and I have a low clutch pedal but no throw out bearing noise. Should we adjust the pedal? Does this stock have a firewall adjuster? Any help would be great.
If your still active on here I have a 73 mustang v4 I installed a clutch kit and the pedal feels like there is nothing there but it pulls the clutch fork I installed a bbk firewall adjuster and still nothing have any ideas?
I got a 93 foxbody with the stock t5, a bbk cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster. Either my clutch won’t engage so it wants to grind the gears or when I get it to finally engage and wants to shift, my throw out bearing makes a squeaking when I left off the clutch. I even got a spring set up that sits between the transmission and the clutch fork to keep too much pressure off the throw out bearing and it still does it. I know this video is fours years old but would appreciate anybody’s help
My car killed a throughout bearing 2000 miles and I think I hear it making noise again idk what to do my pedal has some floppyness at the top I’ll try tightening it
Having an issue in my 02 GT where my clutch pedal will rattle only a little at idle, but a lot during acceleration and deceleration from about 1300-2200 rpms. Just touching my foot to the pedal will stop it from rattling and it is for sure the pedal itself that's moving. I've been having this issue pretty much since install (exedy 350 stage 1 clutch and flywheel, steeda quadrant and adjustable cable, and SR performance firewall adjuster). The old self adjusting quad had a type of return spring to my recolection and since this is an aftermarket one they do not utilize them. There is some play in terms of the return postion at the top, I can pull the clutch up some more when its at the top. Any suggestions?
Make sure your clutch fork is pushed in and properly installed, check out this video to see what i'm talking about ruclips.net/video/-TgJuFxgUo4/видео.html
Jonathan Sardinas it’s not about getting the cheapest when it comes to working the way these should. Maximum motor sports sells hands down the best cable and kit for our cars. I’ve tried them all and wouldn’t use anything else
Help Needed! I installed a new clutch, new transmission, and new adjustable clutch cable. Everything worked fine for about 2 weeks, then all of a sudden the clutch stopped disengaging. Got my clutch cable from American Muscle, it has a threaded rod-end that connects to the fork for more adjustability. I set the firewall adjustment all the way down, and then pulled the fork until it pushed on the pressure plate springs about 1/8" and locked it tight with the locking nut. The clutch would still not disengage, so I started backing out the firewall adjustment. Now it's fully turned out all the way out, and still no disengagement. Any thoughts before I rip my head off and tear out the transmission (again)
Any idea what would cause a clutch pedal to chatter when not it gear or when driving and letting off the gas? Recently had the clutch and pressure plate replaced, steeda quadrant, new cable. Any thoughts would help!
If having the clutch adjusted with preload how in the video is shown , that would disengage the clutch quicker and when releasing it would engage right at the top my question is would having it setup like that cause slippage ?
If your cable is too tight yes, but if you get rid of the slack properly like i have the pedal will be just getting firm and it'll be close to the top like in my video. If you start to notice slippage loosen your firewall adjuster and see if that helps. The only way you can have slippage regardless of how your cable is adjusted is if your pivotball is too long and you TOB is pushing on your clutch fingers. My new clutch is actually suffering from this issue and I'll be making a video on it here soon!
Hey bro I recently bought a 96 gt pretty cheap because the clutch doesn’t fully disengage so it grinds every gear it has a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster what do you recommend checking I doubt it’s the clutch it’s a stage 3 thanks
Izaack Qtvv sounds like a clutch adjustment issue. Try that first and find if it makes a difference. If not you’re going to have to inspect the clutch and possibly tear the trans apart and check the synchronizers for worn teeth. Those help seat the gears smoothly and “synchronize” input shaft speed to gear speed. If they’re worn they’ll grind
I just bought an 89 mustang, it has the aluminum quadrant and adjuster already in it, the pedal has some dead space at the top, when I let off the clutch, I can still pull the pedal up about another half inch to get it back to where it stops, I'm about to try to adjust this tomorow, I should turn the adjuster counter-clockwise? I've never done this before so I just want to make sure, thank you
So I tried to adjust it today, only thing is that there's a set screw in the adjuster that's holding the cable in place, I can't see into the hole enough to even tell if there's a screw in there but if I try to spin the adjuster, it spins the cable too and won't let me adjust it, any advise? I tried putting a bunch of different Allen keys in the hole where the set screw is but nothing seems to grab anything in there, and from where it sits there I can't even see if the screw is actually in there
I just manual swapped a crown vic last week with a TR3650 from an 03 Mustang GT. Used the UPR clutch cable kit (firewall adjuster, cable, and quadrant). A friend of mine also manual swapped a crown vic almost 2 years ago and I bought most of the same parts since I enjoyed the way his drove so much. We're both running UPR cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster with Exedy mach 400 stage 2 clutch kit (full kit with pilot and throw out bearing), and TR3650 trans. Cables are routed pretty much the same path but I almost feel like I'm standing on my clutch pedal to get it down to the floor. Would adjusting the firewall adjuster help this? Or just change where the clutch engages/disengages? Have you used the UPR cable? Other than that, do you have any ideas as to what it could be causing my clutch pedal to be so stiff? I appreciate any input.
I have a coyote swap in my foxbody using a Cobra T56, has a quadrant, fire wall adjuster, ford cable and MGW shifter. With car on jack stands I press clutch in all the way and shift into 1st and wheels already start to spin with clutch pedal still pressed. I've tried to adjust many times and still can't seem to get it to work correctly. It shifts into gears OK but reverse is tough. When I put it on the ground I can't shift into any gears while car is on. With car off it shifts into all gears nicely. Any ideas?
You should only need to "Check" or re adjust it two or three times with a new cable as it stretches out a little. I've adjusted mine twice since installed and it hasn't stretched anymore!
Just bought a 10k mileage 03 yesterday. Stock clutch engages like a centimeter off the floor. Wtf! I've stalled it 5 times already. You can hear the flywheel spinning when the clutch is released in neutral.
My pedal grabs at the tippy top. I got a new cable that's not adjustable. But I do have a bbk quad. Ordered a firewall adjuster. Does it need more slack In the cable for the pedal to grab halfway?
@@JaegerWrenching just installed the FWA. Cable still is tight and still causing clutch to slip Thinking I might need an adjustable cable but this new cable should work. I'm fed up lol
I've had to replace 3 clutch kits on mine I was 18 at the time and never looked into it thoroughly as I had faith in fords "infinite wisdom" on it self adjusting quadrant but it was allways way off the release bearings would allways squel lol it blew up once and dug itself into the fork it was awful wish ford wasnt too cheap to have hydraulic systems like everyone else also too much preload will wear out the throwout bearing as well
hey man, ive only had my cobra for a couple months now. Under load, i cant grab gears (lots of granny shifting). So im thinking its a clutch cable issue, however i believe its still the stock set up and possibly the stock clutch as well. Any tips on working with the stock set up? I also feel a little bit of chatter when letting off the clutch as well in first gear, could this also be the clutch cable? Sorry about all the questions! Thank you, your videos are super helpful man!!
If it chatters in first gear then it's probably not a stock clutch and definitely not a clutch cable issue.Bad clutch cables make the clutch pedal super stiff and almost unbearable to push in. if it's a stock clutch cable with no firewall adjuster you can't do anything for adjustment beside pull up on the clutch pedal as hard as you can and see if it clicks. If it clicks this may fix your issue, if it doesn't look at it to see if it's stock. If it locks you out of gear while trying to shift at high rpm this can possibly be fixed by a new quadrant and firewall adjuster being that it's adjusted properly. My recomendation is maximum motorsports for everything. they make a kit with cable, firewall adjuster, and quadrant linked here: www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Cable-Quadrant-and-Firewall-Adjuster-Package-P385.aspx That kit installed right on a good clutch and TOB will solve 99% of peoples problems following instructions in this video. IMO buy this and install it, i bet it fixes your issues. If for some reason you have issues still you can say you went the cheapest route possible and now have a perfect setup for a brand new clutch and TOB that will operate flawlessly.
Don’t know why this is confusing to me I bought a Bbk cable/quadrant and firewall adjuster. I have to have my adjuster on the fork on as least threads as possible to get it to shift right. I had is dialed in perfect for a few months now then I noticed a rattling noise and took the cover off and noticed the jam nut rattled off. If I tighten it to have enough threads for the jam nut to seat the clutch engages really high. If I screw the firewall adjust all the way in it engages kind of where I want it off the floor but the gears grind. If I turn the adjust out or to the left it engages higher off the floor and just feels weird. Not sure if my clutch is going or what. Any advice?
@@frankycheechoo1126 yeah I just changed my clutch yesterday. Trans is still waiting to go in. I got a ford adjustable cable waiting to go in. My clutch fork spring that clicks onto the pivot ball was stretched out.
Bro just installed mine! What does it mean when it’s hard to adjust the fire wall adjuster?? Like when i turn it , the cable wants to turn with it also making it hard af
I just got a 99 cobra with the steeda clutch cable and quadrant but the clutch feels near impossible to push in. Nothing close to what yours is. You think the cable is just way over tightened?
please help me do this and fix some other possible issues with my 01 turbocharged mustang cobra!! im located in CT i would be willng to drive if you would be able to help adjust the clutch and other stuff because i think the vband clamp for downpipe is loose and its blowing white smoke but has tons of power even in full vacuum and im assuming full compression. but please help me adjust my clutch it has a horrible adjustment rate... it needs to be pushed all the way in and is very stiff to shift gears, but the clutch engaugement point is all the way at the end after the spring kind of throws ur foot into letting the clutch out fully you kind of have to fight with it and get it at that engagement point while on the brake and then modulate the throttle but i know you can help me out big time i would love to bring her to you let you rip the cobra and maybe make some youtube content and fix these issues.. let me know if you willing to help me out im located in CT and email me netime at yahoo or on insta of fb @pete88p.. thanks in advance, -P3T3R
Hey brother, I would like to ask for some advice. I have an 04 cobra that is giving me issues with gears not disengaging. I decided to take action and change the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, pilot and throw out bearings, fork, new tranny fluid and lastly the clutch cable. The cable I have has the adjustment where it connects to the fork. Sadly the issue persists. I also noticed your wheels still have momentum as you press down the clutch pedal, my rear wheels come to a sudden stop even if I disengage the clutch at a high speed like 30mph or so while the wheels are in the air. At this point I just want to sell the dang thing, I've been fighting with this problem since October 2022. Perhaps my problem could be inside the actual transmission? The car only has 45k miles but who knows how badly this cobra was treated by the previous owners as I am the 4th or 5th owner if I remember correctly. I look forward to your reply and I hope you have a blessed day.
It was the second gear and shift fork. I sent my transmission to a shop and they rebuilt it for me lol Now I have this cable and quadrant, the clutch pedal shakes pretty bad at like 3k. I'm wondering if I need to make it tighter or get the firewall adjuster
Same with the park break gear teeth. There's to much space between teeth. Needs finner teeth. Pulling it up so far just for one click stretches the hell out of the break cable.
Im having trouble with my 2003 Gt 3650 trans, i recently installed a clutch, throwout bearing, ford oem cable with a fire wall adjuster, double hook quardant , the clutch engages really close to the floor and 1st gear takes effort to get into and reverse doesnt grab at all anymore ?! All gears were working fine before the clutch install and right now the cable is firm theres no play at the clutch fork and the cable is on the second hook on the quadrant , If i tighten the cable more i feel like it would snap or mess up my clutch or throwout bearing .. What should be my next move should i try putting the cable on the first hook and play with the firewall adjuster ? or should i see if my shifter is all the way down ive heard that may cause the issue but any suggestions would be appreciated
Tighten the cable more and re-test. Your cable won't break, you're not to the point of fully disengaging the clutch which is why it's close to the floor before doing so and why it's also giving you issues with getting it into gear.
@@MustangGal004 Sounds like something is installed improperly. if it goes into gear when off, but not when running that's like it's not disengaging fully. But if you say it won't engage either? That makes me think more like improper install because it's doing both. It should only do one or the other of those if something is out of adjustment. When you installed the trans did you check for clearance between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers? Or disconnect your clutch cable and see if you have play between the clutch fingers and TOB.
JaegerWrenching it's not that loud, but with the windows up and rhe radio off I can hear it. I have a OEM cable. My firewall adjuster is just over an inch out
JaegerWrenching ok, I'm going to drive it to work and I'll report back. The pedal feels like it might be at the high end of 8 pounds for the first half in so I don't really want to go any tighter. Thanks for the help man. Just curious, what state are you in?
it means you either need to keep going out or your TOB is bad, so try going out more until the TOB stops squeaking and the pedal is nice and stiff, doesn't ahve any slop in it.
JaegerWrenching if I kept backing it out it would make a loud grinding noise when at a specific rpm when I’m neutral or gear . The rpm of the would be set higher if I backed out the adjuster . Right now I have adjuster more clockwise and the there is slight tob squeak but no loud grinding noise at rpm. Only slight grinding when downshifting into third . If I rode the clutch at the rpm of the noise it would not make it
I took it back to the trans shop. They said the tob gave out . They put a new clutch in but it still has symptoms of a bad pilot bearing . They put a new one in but at least the noise is gone . I appreciate all the help
that01cobra /roycobra180 glad you got it sorted it. Some brands make noise regardless of being new. On tremec transmissions in mustangs, I’ve read in forums that you should replace bearings with Ford Racing quality. Super smooth, quiet and somewhat OEM feel(I believe) I’m currently doing my clutch with that brand except clutch kit and flywheel are from exedy.
I recently got my throw out bearing replaced and before my clutch would engage/disengage at the very bottom..and now after the replacement it’s at the very top. Is this normal? I have an 04 Mach 1..I kind of like it cause I can just push in and get off when wot without worrying about missing a gear
if your old TOB was really worn yes the new one will change the engagement point. But make sure your clutch fork is properly engaged on the pivot ball.
sweet! over 600 subs now! so thanks my man! you'd check it by making sure the clutch for is all the way up and it doesn't bounce around. did you install this TOB or have a shop do it? and does your car have a firewall adjuster on it?
hey man. I'm having a really hard time getting my 2004 cobra into gear. like really hard... its taking almost all my force to get It into gear. could this be fixed by adjusting my cable? and if so do I tighten or loosen it. If anyone in the comments can help me as well that would be awesome!!
JaegerWrenching sorry to bother so much but I just installed my quadrant, cable and fire wall adjuster and when I go into first from a stop sometimes I hear a clunk like if the clutch isn’t fully disengaging so I jacked up the car and with the clutch fully pressed to the floor I put it into first and my wheels move alittle bit then stop after it’s fully in first. So my question is do I tighten up the cable until that no longer happens or am I doing something wrong? Thanks
@@JaegerWrenching well my clutch felt soft for a couple of days but then became stiff once again. And it's been like that for a couple of months. So did the cable go bad since it was not mounted. In the beginning of your video you mentioned something like that?? I just removed the clutch and turns out it was a factory clutch so I believe the cable flexed? Hopefully I'm not making sound confusing
You don't want to have constant pressure on your throwout bearing either. If you have pressure against your throwout bearing it is the same thing as riding around with your foot resting on the clutch pedal. These mustangs don't need any help wearing throwout bearings out as it is !
Tell that to the 100s of people who have better shifting mustangs from this advice. it's not a lot of pressure just taking the slack out. Even Ford intructions and Maximum motorsports says the same thing.
Push rod broke on 07 dakota gets to being a pain in the ass when it likes to fall to the floor at a stop light was looking online for a simple bypass till I get a whole new master cylinder for it 😕 they don’t sell just pushrod that will click back into the master cylinder
@@SmudgyContent Yeah unfortunately most places just sell them as a whole, and it's rare that just a pushrod breaks. if it's a metal pushrod weld it! If it's plastic you're probably going to have to wait until a new one arrives.
Kenny Lauderdale no 2005 and up are hydraulic, but you can have throw out bearing issues with them. Your 2008 is at the age where it’s either clutch or throw out bearing.
Авто/Мото
Man, I think I saw like 10 videos before watching yours; truely you explained it better than anyone out there, thanks a bunch.
2 years later and still an Awesome video. Thanks for the help!
This video was extremely helpful. I'm working on a 66 Mustang with T5. I had been guessing at the clutch adjustment and had never thought of jacking it up and seeing exactly where it starts to grab. Turns out the pedal wasn't much more than an inch or so off the floor before the wheels started turning. I backed the adjuster out so the travel was about the same as yours and the operation is much smoother. As a side benefit I also realized my newly-installed performance rear drum brake system was dragging badly. As soon as I put the clutch in the wheels immediately stopped. I adjusted the shoes and it stops great. Thanks.
My 18 year old son just bought a 2003 Mustang GT. He has been driving for a week now at the clutch cable has gone out of adjustment twice... with the help of your video my husband was able to adjust it! My son is sooo happy! So far so good! Thank you
I love how your car is super clean except the nice rubber deposits behind the rear tires XD Thanks for this video, it's gold!
ImAFLying Cactus haha it’s my signature look lol!
I noticed that too!!
The engine bay is super clean and rubber on the back fender!! Lol
Detailed and to the point. Thanks man.
I just broke the plastic quadrant on my 2001. I ordered a new kit from LMR. Thanks for posting this informative video.
THANK YOU! I just replaced the cable on my 01 Bullitt... I was worried that if the cable was too tight i'd be wearing my throwout barring... I am excited to get back into the garage tomorrow morning (when it's not 115 degrees out) and tighten things up!
My 1st time in my own manual transmission and it needs to be adjusted like yours is. Thanks for the great information!! 💯🔧
I can recognize those mountains any given day. Love the sandia’s ❤️
Helped a lot, the whole explanation on "Preload" Helps me know I'm not crazy, Also with the rear jacked up, nice tip. Thanks so much! 😁
Your videos are awesome bro thanks for doing what you do, your EGR delete video helped me out a bunch and this video will be even more useful because I am having clutch cable problems right now.
Best video on this subject for fox bodies to his cobra. He tells you everything!
Nice through job of explaining how the clutch cable works & how to adjust it. I was afraid of "over adjusting" it . Apparently its okay to have a "pre-load" on the throw out bearing. On older Chevys' you never want to have the throw out bearing touching the clutch fingers otherwise it would wear-out the bearing prematurely. This guy would make an EXCELLENT instructor.
Thank you for this video. It answered so many questions nobody else could
Watched this video 2x this has been a heavily discussed topic on the forums, appreciate your simple explanations of the process. Im going to jack up my car this weekend test your theory, and btw that is a beautiful CO cobra.
Some time you just have to start all over to make sure everything is in place. Thanks for the video really needed it. 😊
Great video man, this helped so much. Great tip from maximum Motorsport too. Will definitely use that in the future.
I was a little short on cash so skipped the adjuster for now, but instead got a mm quadrant with a Ford adjustable cable. I put a little bit of tention on the cable, and now my shifting issues are gone. I think I'll have to put a little more tention on the cable, my car doesn't start to roll until about 2.5 to 3 inches off the floor. Where it's at makes a super long throw when taking off from a stop, but it's a heck of a lot better than grinding gears, especially when trying to put it in reverse.
I just got a new clutch installed. I feel the pedal is a tad squishy, I will adjust the pedal today. I’m used to the pedal far at the top, so I need a good medium. Thanks again, great video
I like to stop on a steep hill and let the car start to roll back, then slowly let the clutch out and see where it's engaging. Good video. I think the clutch forks wear out on the thin metal that holds the tob and cause shifting issues. I just bought a new clutch fork along with a new clutch and bearing. I bought the firewall adjuster and quadrant too a little while back. I think the tob is what causes the worst or smoothest clutch feel. I have read too that some guys put white lithium grease on the cable and run the cable back and forth to feed it in so the cable doesn't saw away at the cable housing and moves smoother.
Very good instruction, I am about to do a cable swap. Darn should have got an adjuster like that, thanks dude and by the way sweet Ride
Very thorough. Good stuff..
Thanks bud, super helpful. 👍
Good Job Cobra Brother!
Good video answer my question perfectly
Awesome video! Thank you!
Thanks for yor help best video very helpful 👍👍
Thanks brother this really helped
How do you dislike this video bro literally explained everything
Great video! However the quadrant doesn't have "adjustments" the hook on the end is for cables without a firewall adjuster and the one further back is for the adjusters to be used.
Cleared up allot of questions I didn't even have to ask about! 🔥👌🏾🙌🏾👍🏾✊🏾💯 Thanks!
Good video by the way.
Thank you for this video
extremely helpful
great video good knowlege
i installed a new MM cable, quadrant, firewall adjuster but my clutch still stiff, looks like i need a new clutch kit
So my clutch pedal doesn’t engage until about an inch off the floor. Which way do I adjust the firewall adjuster? Right or left?
He is 100% right I have broke 7 cables cause of having slack in the cable
So the firewall adjuster with out the lock screw are ok ?? Did u put washer on ur quadrant to push it out some so u want ur quadrant as close to the clips that hold it on to the clutch pedal??
Just recently bought a 03 cobra with a spec clutch and firewall adjuster with new clutch cable it’s really hard to shift almost to the point where I can’t enjoy it feels great when it’s not in motion not sure what’s wrong.
New sub!!!
Can you do a video on how to change the oil in the supercharger and which oil is best to use
Great video, will definitely utilize some of the knowledge you shared when installing my Steeda clutch cable kit (firewall adjuster, quadrant, + cable). Currently on the stock equipment, and the clutch is catching close to the floor with a wicked stiff pedal.
Mike DeStefano your clutch cable is for sure bad! That’s almost always the cable when the peddle is super stiff.
So is the firewall adjuster an aftermarket part, because mine doesn't look like that on my 2003 gt
So I have a 87 mustang 5.0 5 spd manual and I have a low clutch pedal but no throw out bearing noise. Should we adjust the pedal? Does this stock have a firewall adjuster? Any help would be great.
If your still active on here I have a 73 mustang v4 I installed a clutch kit and the pedal feels like there is nothing there but it pulls the clutch fork I installed a bbk firewall adjuster and still nothing have any ideas?
Would my 97 have a factory adjustment? It’s a Cobra as well.
I got a 93 foxbody with the stock t5, a bbk cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster. Either my clutch won’t engage so it wants to grind the gears or when I get it to finally engage and wants to shift, my throw out bearing makes a squeaking when I left off the clutch. I even got a spring set up that sits between the transmission and the clutch fork to keep too much pressure off the throw out bearing and it still does it. I know this video is fours years old but would appreciate anybody’s help
What do you think about clutch pedal lowering kit from maximum motor sports
My car killed a throughout bearing 2000 miles and I think I hear it making noise again idk what to do my pedal has some floppyness at the top I’ll try tightening it
Are the washers on the quadrant necessary? Because mine didn't come with any.
so do i tighten until the throw out bearing is riding the pressure plate fingers??
So much for straight to the point
reminds of a run dmc rap song called you talk too much man you never shut up,,,,,,but he is correct
Having an issue in my 02 GT where my clutch pedal will rattle only a little at idle, but a lot during acceleration and deceleration from about 1300-2200 rpms. Just touching my foot to the pedal will stop it from rattling and it is for sure the pedal itself that's moving. I've been having this issue pretty much since install (exedy 350 stage 1 clutch and flywheel, steeda quadrant and adjustable cable, and SR performance firewall adjuster). The old self adjusting quad had a type of return spring to my recolection and since this is an aftermarket one they do not utilize them. There is some play in terms of the return postion at the top, I can pull the clutch up some more when its at the top. Any suggestions?
Make sure your clutch fork is pushed in and properly installed, check out this video to see what i'm talking about ruclips.net/video/-TgJuFxgUo4/видео.html
Thank you so much for this video! Where is the cheapest place to get one of those kits?
Jonathan Sardinas it’s not about getting the cheapest when it comes to working the way these should. Maximum motor sports sells hands down the best cable and kit for our cars. I’ve tried them all and wouldn’t use anything else
Help Needed!
I installed a new clutch, new transmission, and new adjustable clutch cable. Everything worked fine for about 2 weeks, then all of a sudden the clutch stopped disengaging. Got my clutch cable from American Muscle, it has a threaded rod-end that connects to the fork for more adjustability. I set the firewall adjustment all the way down, and then pulled the fork until it pushed on the pressure plate springs about 1/8" and locked it tight with the locking nut. The clutch would still not disengage, so I started backing out the firewall adjustment. Now it's fully turned out all the way out, and still no disengagement. Any thoughts before I rip my head off and tear out the transmission (again)
Is your clutch fork installed properly? I've seen them improperly installed on the pivot ball to where they appear to be right but they are not.
Any idea what would cause a clutch pedal to chatter when not it gear or when driving and letting off the gas? Recently had the clutch and pressure plate replaced, steeda quadrant, new cable. Any thoughts would help!
clutch fork not seated on the pivot ball properly
If having the clutch adjusted with preload how in the video is shown , that would disengage the clutch quicker and when releasing it would engage right at the top my question is would having it setup like that cause slippage ?
If your cable is too tight yes, but if you get rid of the slack properly like i have the pedal will be just getting firm and it'll be close to the top like in my video. If you start to notice slippage loosen your firewall adjuster and see if that helps. The only way you can have slippage regardless of how your cable is adjusted is if your pivotball is too long and you TOB is pushing on your clutch fingers. My new clutch is actually suffering from this issue and I'll be making a video on it here soon!
How far down on the pressure plate fingers are you pushing them like a couple inches or so?
Wesley W it depends on which quadrant you have. But you only want to just touch the fingers with your TOB.
Hey bro I recently bought a 96 gt pretty cheap because the clutch doesn’t fully disengage so it grinds every gear it has a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster what do you recommend checking I doubt it’s the clutch it’s a stage 3 thanks
Izaack Qtvv sounds like a clutch adjustment issue. Try that first and find if it makes a difference. If not you’re going to have to inspect the clutch and possibly tear the trans apart and check the synchronizers for worn teeth. Those help seat the gears smoothly and “synchronize” input shaft speed to gear speed. If they’re worn they’ll grind
I just bought an 89 mustang, it has the aluminum quadrant and adjuster already in it, the pedal has some dead space at the top, when I let off the clutch, I can still pull the pedal up about another half inch to get it back to where it stops, I'm about to try to adjust this tomorow, I should turn the adjuster counter-clockwise? I've never done this before so I just want to make sure, thank you
Yes counter clockwise. good luck this should help and give you a good pedal feel.
So I tried to adjust it today, only thing is that there's a set screw in the adjuster that's holding the cable in place, I can't see into the hole enough to even tell if there's a screw in there but if I try to spin the adjuster, it spins the cable too and won't let me adjust it, any advise? I tried putting a bunch of different Allen keys in the hole where the set screw is but nothing seems to grab anything in there, and from where it sits there I can't even see if the screw is actually in there
I just manual swapped a crown vic last week with a TR3650 from an 03 Mustang GT. Used the UPR clutch cable kit (firewall adjuster, cable, and quadrant). A friend of mine also manual swapped a crown vic almost 2 years ago and I bought most of the same parts since I enjoyed the way his drove so much. We're both running UPR cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster with Exedy mach 400 stage 2 clutch kit (full kit with pilot and throw out bearing), and TR3650 trans. Cables are routed pretty much the same path but I almost feel like I'm standing on my clutch pedal to get it down to the floor. Would adjusting the firewall adjuster help this? Or just change where the clutch engages/disengages? Have you used the UPR cable? Other than that, do you have any ideas as to what it could be causing my clutch pedal to be so stiff? I appreciate any input.
Flynnbot it’s either the clutch diaphragm springs are heavy or the cable is bad. Was it always super stiff? Or did it slowly get bad?
Thanks CoBro
I have a coyote swap in my foxbody using a Cobra T56, has a quadrant, fire wall adjuster, ford cable and MGW shifter. With car on jack stands I press clutch in all the way and shift into 1st and wheels already start to spin with clutch pedal still pressed. I've tried to adjust many times and still can't seem to get it to work correctly. It shifts into gears OK but reverse is tough. When I put it on the ground I can't shift into any gears while car is on. With car off it shifts into all gears nicely. Any ideas?
Sounds like it's not disengaging fully.
@@JaegerWrenching I appreciate the response and I'll try and make more adjustments later today
JaegerWrenching awesome video by the way. how often do you adjust you clutch cable?
You should only need to "Check" or re adjust it two or three times with a new cable as it stretches out a little. I've adjusted mine twice since installed and it hasn't stretched anymore!
Just bought a 10k mileage 03 yesterday. Stock clutch engages like a centimeter off the floor. Wtf! I've stalled it 5 times already. You can hear the flywheel spinning when the clutch is released in neutral.
My pedal grabs at the tippy top. I got a new cable that's not adjustable. But I do have a bbk quad. Ordered a firewall adjuster. Does it need more slack In the cable for the pedal to grab halfway?
yes
@@JaegerWrenching just installed the FWA. Cable still is tight and still causing clutch to slip
Thinking I might need an adjustable cable but this new cable should work. I'm fed up lol
@@anthony8194 use the other hook on the quadrant, also make sure you're no using the supplied spacer on the cable
I've had to replace 3 clutch kits on mine I was 18 at the time and never looked into it thoroughly as I had faith in fords "infinite wisdom" on it self adjusting quadrant but it was allways way off the release bearings would allways squel lol it blew up once and dug itself into the fork it was awful wish ford wasnt too cheap to have hydraulic systems like everyone else also too much preload will wear out the throwout bearing as well
hey man, ive only had my cobra for a couple months now. Under load, i cant grab gears (lots of granny shifting). So im thinking its a clutch cable issue, however i believe its still the stock set up and possibly the stock clutch as well. Any tips on working with the stock set up? I also feel a little bit of chatter when letting off the clutch as well in first gear, could this also be the clutch cable? Sorry about all the questions! Thank you, your videos are super helpful man!!
If it chatters in first gear then it's probably not a stock clutch and definitely not a clutch cable issue.Bad clutch cables make the clutch pedal super stiff and almost unbearable to push in. if it's a stock clutch cable with no firewall adjuster you can't do anything for adjustment beside pull up on the clutch pedal as hard as you can and see if it clicks. If it clicks this may fix your issue, if it doesn't look at it to see if it's stock. If it locks you out of gear while trying to shift at high rpm this can possibly be fixed by a new quadrant and firewall adjuster being that it's adjusted properly. My recomendation is maximum motorsports for everything. they make a kit with cable, firewall adjuster, and quadrant linked here: www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Cable-Quadrant-and-Firewall-Adjuster-Package-P385.aspx That kit installed right on a good clutch and TOB will solve 99% of peoples problems following instructions in this video. IMO buy this and install it, i bet it fixes your issues. If for some reason you have issues still you can say you went the cheapest route possible and now have a perfect setup for a brand new clutch and TOB that will operate flawlessly.
@@JaegerWrenching thanks brother
@@SIKMACH1 hey James did getting thea clutch cable adjusted help your situation at all?
Don’t know why this is confusing to me I bought a Bbk cable/quadrant and firewall adjuster. I have to have my adjuster on the fork on as least threads as possible to get it to shift right. I had is dialed in perfect for a few months now then I noticed a rattling noise and took the cover off and noticed the jam nut rattled off. If I tighten it to have enough threads for the jam nut to seat the clutch engages really high. If I screw the firewall adjust all the way in it engages kind of where I want it off the floor but the gears grind. If I turn the adjust out or to the left it engages higher off the floor and just feels weird. Not sure if my clutch is going or what. Any advice?
Get rid of the bbk that’s the problem
@@frankycheechoo1126 yeah I just changed my clutch yesterday. Trans is still waiting to go in. I got a ford adjustable cable waiting to go in. My clutch fork spring that clicks onto the pivot ball was stretched out.
Bro just installed mine! What does it mean when it’s hard to adjust the fire wall adjuster?? Like when i turn it , the cable wants to turn with it also making it hard af
It means your cable is getting tension in it and starting to put preload on the TOB. You should be close to where you want to be when it’s like that.
I just got a 99 cobra with the steeda clutch cable and quadrant but the clutch feels near impossible to push in. Nothing close to what yours is. You think the cable is just way over tightened?
The cable is trash get a maximum motorsport one.
@@JaegerWrenching it actually bound up and broke the next day 😂
How do you get your clutch pedal to drop a few inches Mines abnormally high
Dustin Cook Loosen your firewall adjuster.
please help me do this and fix some other possible issues with my 01 turbocharged mustang cobra!! im located in CT i would be willng to drive if you would be able to help adjust the clutch and other stuff because i think the vband clamp for downpipe is loose and its blowing white smoke but has tons of power even in full vacuum and im assuming full compression.
but please help me adjust my clutch it has a horrible adjustment rate... it needs to be pushed all the way in and is very stiff to shift gears, but the clutch engaugement point is all the way at the end after the spring kind of throws ur foot into letting the clutch out fully you kind of have to fight with it and get it at that engagement point while on the brake and then modulate the throttle but i know you can help me out big time i would love to bring her to you let you rip the cobra and maybe make some youtube content and fix these issues..
let me know if you willing to help me out im located in CT and email me netime at yahoo or on insta of fb @pete88p..
thanks in advance,
-P3T3R
I'm all the way in Albuquerque New mexico but i'm down to work on your car if you bring it to me.
my clutch is making noise like its not disengaging not sure if its the bearing loud whine.gonna try adj the cable.great video..
it's probably a bad throw out bearing, does the noise change when you push down on the clutch pedal?
@@JaegerWrenching yes but it doesnt go into gear now
Hey brother, I would like to ask for some advice. I have an 04 cobra that is giving me issues with gears not disengaging. I decided to take action and change the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, pilot and throw out bearings, fork, new tranny fluid and lastly the clutch cable. The cable I have has the adjustment where it connects to the fork. Sadly the issue persists. I also noticed your wheels still have momentum as you press down the clutch pedal, my rear wheels come to a sudden stop even if I disengage the clutch at a high speed like 30mph or so while the wheels are in the air. At this point I just want to sell the dang thing, I've been fighting with this problem since October 2022. Perhaps my problem could be inside the actual transmission? The car only has 45k miles but who knows how badly this cobra was treated by the previous owners as I am the 4th or 5th owner if I remember correctly. I look forward to your reply and I hope you have a blessed day.
Sounds to me like your rear brake are dragging. I've seen this happen with cobras in the past
It was the second gear and shift fork. I sent my transmission to a shop and they rebuilt it for me lol
Now I have this cable and quadrant, the clutch pedal shakes pretty bad at like 3k. I'm wondering if I need to make it tighter or get the firewall adjuster
I just had the cable replaced because it snapped and the gears go in as smooth as butter 🧈
Clutch cable rubs on fire wall adjuster and grinds. Help please.
Jesus Rodriguez add me on Facebook chad jaeger and send me some pictures bud!
Do I have to change my plastic quadrant when I put a firewall adjuster and adjustable clutch cable in?
no you don't but it's highly recommended
Same with the park break gear teeth. There's to much space between teeth. Needs finner teeth. Pulling it up so far just for one click stretches the hell out of the break cable.
Good job with the vid man.
Im having trouble with my 2003 Gt 3650 trans, i recently installed a clutch, throwout bearing, ford oem cable with a fire wall adjuster, double hook quardant , the clutch engages really close to the floor and 1st gear takes effort to get into and reverse doesnt grab at all anymore ?! All gears were working fine before the clutch install and right now the cable is firm theres no play at the clutch fork and the cable is on the second hook on the quadrant , If i tighten the cable more i feel like it would snap or mess up my clutch or throwout bearing .. What should be my next move should i try putting the cable on the first hook and play with the firewall adjuster ? or should i see if my shifter is all the way down ive heard that may cause the issue but any suggestions would be appreciated
Tighten the cable more and re-test. Your cable won't break, you're not to the point of fully disengaging the clutch which is why it's close to the floor before doing so and why it's also giving you issues with getting it into gear.
JaegerWrenching Okay i will try that out , i attempted to tighten the cable some more but then the clutch pedal felt super stiff is that normal ?
@@edliardomunguia2802 depends on your clutch, some are super heavy. What brand of clutch is it.
JaegerWrenching its a exedy 350 stage 1 clutch
@@edliardomunguia2802 how stiff are we talking? can you push the pedal to the floor?
Hey question . New clutch. Wont go in to gear when it's on. But it will when it's off. Grinds when it goes into gear.
Also it wont engage
@@MustangGal004 Sounds like something is installed improperly. if it goes into gear when off, but not when running that's like it's not disengaging fully. But if you say it won't engage either? That makes me think more like improper install because it's doing both. It should only do one or the other of those if something is out of adjustment. When you installed the trans did you check for clearance between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers? Or disconnect your clutch cable and see if you have play between the clutch fingers and TOB.
Hey! We are going to take it apart and out it back together. One guy did it. Now my boyfriend and I are going to do it now
@@MustangGal004 Awesome if you guys need some help feel free to ask! I'm getting married this Friday so i maybe busy but i'll try my best to help!
@@JaegerWrenching Awww congrats! That's no problem! I'll deff let you know if we do! I'll even send pics for updates lol
My clutch pedal feels pretty good after following your instructions but now when I put it in 1st gear I can hear a driveline clunk. Am I too tight?
Peter Quigley no, sometimes you may hear the clunk, try going a little tighter and seeing if it goes away,
JaegerWrenching it's not that loud, but with the windows up and rhe radio off I can hear it. I have a OEM cable. My firewall adjuster is just over an inch out
Is that excessive?
No that’s very normal, mine was almost 2 inches out.
JaegerWrenching ok, I'm going to drive it to work and I'll report back. The pedal feels like it might be at the high end of 8 pounds for the first half in so I don't really want to go any tighter. Thanks for the help man. Just curious, what state are you in?
So backing out the adjuster will make my tob squeak so would that mean that its too loose?
it means you either need to keep going out or your TOB is bad, so try going out more until the TOB stops squeaking and the pedal is nice and stiff, doesn't ahve any slop in it.
JaegerWrenching if I kept backing it out it would make a loud grinding noise when at a specific rpm when I’m neutral or gear . The rpm of the would be set higher if I backed out the adjuster . Right now I have adjuster more clockwise and the there is slight tob squeak but no loud grinding noise at rpm. Only slight grinding when downshifting into third . If I rode the clutch at the rpm of the noise it would not make it
send me a video to my facebook page Chad Jaeger.
I took it back to the trans shop. They said the tob gave out . They put a new clutch in but it still has symptoms of a bad pilot bearing . They put a new one in but at least the noise is gone . I appreciate all the help
that01cobra /roycobra180 glad you got it sorted it. Some brands make noise regardless of being new. On tremec transmissions in mustangs, I’ve read in forums that you should replace bearings with Ford Racing quality. Super smooth, quiet and somewhat OEM feel(I believe) I’m currently doing my clutch with that brand except clutch kit and flywheel are from exedy.
I recently got my throw out bearing replaced and before my clutch would engage/disengage at the very bottom..and now after the replacement it’s at the very top. Is this normal? I have an 04 Mach 1..I kind of like it cause I can just push in and get off when wot without worrying about missing a gear
if your old TOB was really worn yes the new one will change the engagement point. But make sure your clutch fork is properly engaged on the pivot ball.
JaegerWrenching ok thanks. But how would I check that?
New subscriber btw..like literally today lol
sweet! over 600 subs now! so thanks my man! you'd check it by making sure the clutch for is all the way up and it doesn't bounce around. did you install this TOB or have a shop do it? and does your car have a firewall adjuster on it?
Will this fix my shifter buzzing whenever it goes into 3rd and reverse?
Possibly, that’s either caused by worn synchros which this will not fix, or not disengaging the clutch fully which this video will fix.
@@JaegerWrenching sounds good, i hope its the adjuster, thank you🙏
@@juansegovia6443 did this fix your 3rd gear being noisy😮 going through the same car issues lol
hey man. I'm having a really hard time getting my 2004 cobra into gear. like really hard... its taking almost all my force to get It into gear. could this be fixed by adjusting my cable? and if so do I tighten or loosen it. If anyone in the comments can help me as well that would be awesome!!
If it can fix your problem you need to spin your firewall adjuster counter clock wise. This will tighten the cable.
@@JaegerWrenching I had to go under and adjust it by hand, but problem is fixed. thanks for the fast response.
rrated you’re welcome I’m glad it’s better now!
What clutch cable would you recommend for a 99 cobra?
Yanezz 05 maximum Motorsports
JaegerWrenching would a bbk quadrant be a good quadrant as well?
Yanezz 05 Just their quadrant is fine, I did like maximum Motorsports kit the best of them all.
JaegerWrenching do you have to installed washers for the quadrant?
JaegerWrenching sorry to bother so much but I just installed my quadrant, cable and fire wall adjuster and when I go into first from a stop sometimes I hear a clunk like if the clutch isn’t fully disengaging so I jacked up the car and with the clutch fully pressed to the floor I put it into first and my wheels move alittle bit then stop after it’s fully in first. So my question is do I tighten up the cable until that no longer happens or am I doing something wrong? Thanks
Hey how come the maximum motorsports clutch cable doesn't come with the bracket? Is it necessary to have the bracket on the cable?
Adrian Quintero Jr What bracket? Do you mean clutch quadrant?
@@JaegerWrenching the bracket that's on the clutch cable. That you mount near the oil filter.
@@adrianquinterojr6379 ahhh, It is supposed to be reused, so if you are missing yours call maximum and see if they will send you one.
@@JaegerWrenching well my clutch felt soft for a couple of days but then became stiff once again. And it's been like that for a couple of months. So did the cable go bad since it was not mounted. In the beginning of your video you mentioned something like that?? I just removed the clutch and turns out it was a factory clutch so I believe the cable flexed? Hopefully I'm not making sound confusing
@@adrianquinterojr6379 Maximum Motorsports recommends not to reuse the clutch cable bracket.
You don't want to have constant pressure on your throwout bearing either. If you have pressure against your throwout bearing it is the same thing as riding around with your foot resting on the clutch pedal.
These mustangs don't need any help wearing throwout bearings out as it is !
Tell that to the 100s of people who have better shifting mustangs from this advice. it's not a lot of pressure just taking the slack out. Even Ford intructions and Maximum motorsports says the same thing.
"make sure your rear wheels are off the ground" *** if you have real wheel drive;
Yep, you clearly know what the hell your talking about, i can see. Thanks!
@jaegerwrenching
Nothing for hydraulic clutch 🤪
Hydraulic operated clutches don't have cables so this title wouldn't work lol! Do you have any questions?
Push rod broke on 07 dakota gets to being a pain in the ass when it likes to fall to the floor at a stop light was looking online for a simple bypass till I get a whole new master cylinder for it 😕 they don’t sell just pushrod that will click back into the master cylinder
@@SmudgyContent Yeah unfortunately most places just sell them as a whole, and it's rare that just a pushrod breaks. if it's a metal pushrod weld it! If it's plastic you're probably going to have to wait until a new one arrives.
Is the same on a 2008 GT? I think I need to change my kid's. I pray it's not the actual clutch.
Kenny Lauderdale no 2005 and up are hydraulic, but you can have throw out bearing issues with them. Your 2008 is at the age where it’s either clutch or throw out bearing.
Po
I can quickly tell you the difference between a convertible and a coupe. The convertible attracts WAY more vagina.