I've used this on multiple projects, all fairly small, and it worked great for me. You will need more than one coat most likely, but the end result is acceptable.
just used this product on a guitar i repaired ,I sanded the original black finish up to 3000 grit ,when I sprayed the polyshade i was impressed ,but I didnt have enough light and missed a few spots ,I let it dry for a few hours ,but what I didnt do is lightly sand the first coat bad mistake that and it was a humid day ,second coat bubbled up I was so upset with myself ,now I guess its sanding time again ,I only had to paint the top of the guitar as the bottom is actually plastic thank god it wasnt the whole thing ,oh well learned my lesson ,I think it would have been ok if I would have sanded the first coat with a fine sand paper
I share your frustration with the poor quality of 'junk' nowadays. And sadly, as you illustrate with the dollar store example, our economy is 'based-on-waste' now. How long can this last? At least some folks are trying make things last - thank you so much.
Things go in cycles. Who knows, maybe some day people will realize that they would rather pay more than but their product again. Wake me up from my dream when that happens. LOL
Alley Picked You're right to be optimistic abour our economy becoming more intelligent. I shouldn't be so cynic. And hey, if you don't have a dream... Thanks again for your vids mate, they're very professional and entertaining.
I came across your video as I start a new project. Thanks for the review. I'm curious your thoughts about a question I have. But first, ANY stain will darken the color with additional coats. But, since this is described as an "all-in-one" product, I guess it's fair to criticize it's darkening of color due to lack of poly coverage. Definitely more color control with a two step process. Especially if a lighter color is desired. I've used the brush on version as well. Brush selection is important for decent results. Just as important is the surface profile being covered. Any tight inside corners make use of the brush-on product difficult. Another consideration, for either product type, is stain color and satin/gloss finish. As with paint, I find darker colors are more difficult to get "right". As a dark finish will highlight surface/finish imperfections. Gloss finish adds even more difficulty (over satin). I tried refinishing a raised panel cabinet door using the darker (Bombay Mahogany) color in the brush-on product. It did not go well. But, I now wonder if the spray-on would have worked better. This brings me to my thought. I wonder how using the brush-on product would work, if using a spray gun to apply? Thoughts?
My guess is that it would be better. However, I just think that if you use a product that requires so much special attention, it's not really a good product. I just don't ever see myself using either the brush on or spray on polyshades for any reason. If you are looking for quality results or even near quality, I dont know why anybody would grab this stuff. You would have to be in a real hurry and not be too picky about the results. Sounds like you have had some success but as most other comments I get, it can be tricky to use this stuff. I just don't have enough desire or need to experiment with it. Thanks for watching Alley Picked. Tom
@@AlleyPicked Thanks for th3 reply. The ONLY reason for using the Polyshades brush-on version was the inability to find.a readily available stain in the desired color (in my case, the dark Bombay Mahogany). Also, because I was refinishing a piece that already had a finish on it, I felt the added pigments in an all-in-one or gel stain would work better. As the refinishing of the piece would not likely absorb much stain. Refinishing ALWAYS seems to require experimentation. Just wondering if you had experience with spraying this stuff (Either airless or HVLP).
I recently took on a big project, building 15 interior doors for our house. I cheaped out a built them out of birch, not realizing how hard it is to get a even finish on this species. So I have been playing with different techniques to get a even finish. I have a huge amount of time into this project so I really don’t want to screw it up now that I’m at the finishing process. I have considered having them professionally finished $$$$. I’m seriously thinking about giving this product a try. Has anyone tried this on birch or maple?? Or does anyone have recommendations on how to apply a dark stain? Great video by the way.
I just finished a birch chair last week. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/FqYxVJENBzo/видео.html I used a minwax dark walnut stain. I was surprised myself how difficult it was to get an even stain. I gave it 3 coats. One trick I used which you can see in the video is after applying the stain I dry brushed it. You don't want too much stain on the wood...just enough. It's takes a little practice. Dry brushing, wiping the brush off with a rag, dry brush again, always in the direction of the grain, repeat until you get a decent even finish. I did this 3 times. Let it dry overnight between coats. The finish I ended up with is not perfect but I was satisfied with it. I would stay away from one step garbage. This Sunday 8am, I am reviewing Varathane One step garbage in my video release. Check it out and see how horrible it looks. Thanks for watching -- hope this helps. Tom
My plantation shutters are like this medium golden color and I’d like them more darker, would you recommend this spray? Don’t really care if it obscures the wood
The spray is ok -- don't use the brush on stuff. Maybe you can test in on a small section and if you dont like it, clean it off with paint thinner before it dries... Just a thought.
Hi, I am thinking about using this or something like this to "fix" a small section of my wood floor (I am not picky about perfect matching, just want to put something down so it is not further damaged by water spot). DO I understand that I will need to sand the area down using 220 grit paper before and between each application?
I sort of cringe when I hear you say that you want to fix a small section of your floor using the polyshades spray. How bad is the floor? Here's what I would suggest. Clean the section of the floor using very fine steel wool (0000) and a little paint thinner or mineral spirits. After it dries, you can use some wipe on oil based stain to match the existing wood color. After the stain dries, you can use some polyurethane. I just think if you are looking for a quick fix with that spray. you might end up with a disaster if you are not careful of experienced using that stuff.
@@AlleyPicked Thanks for the reply! The floor is fine (original floor in our house bought new in 1997) but there are 3 little sections about 3-4 sq ft each (in front of the kitchen sink, in front of the front and back door) that have minor water damage where the clear coat is peeling off. I really just want to "fix" it to prevent further damage. Maybe I will follow your advice and go the more conventional route using stain and poly separately. I have never done this before but I am willing to give it a try. I was thinking about getting a small orbital sander for the task, but from what you said it sounds like I can just use fine steel wool instead?
You are asking too much .. for one it’s not a professional grade product.. it’s not to finish fine furniture. It for a cheap project at home or to touch up some..
You are correct. My expectations are too high. I recently reviewed the similar Varathane product which I found to be even worse. Here's a link in case you are interested in watching it. Thanks for your feedback. ruclips.net/video/qQb90M3iCs4/видео.html
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I've used this on multiple projects, all fairly small, and it worked great for me. You will need more than one coat most likely, but the end result is acceptable.
just used this product on a guitar i repaired ,I sanded the original black finish up to 3000 grit ,when I sprayed the polyshade i was impressed ,but I didnt have enough light and missed a few spots ,I let it dry for a few hours ,but what I didnt do is lightly sand the first coat bad mistake that and it was a humid day ,second coat bubbled up I was so upset with myself ,now I guess its sanding time again ,I only had to paint the top of the guitar as the bottom is actually plastic thank god it wasnt the whole thing ,oh well learned my lesson ,I think it would have been ok if I would have sanded the first coat with a fine sand paper
What a pain... Yea, live and learn. Used the right way, I guess this stuff is ok. Not great. Just ok.
Thank you, going to give this a try.
I share your frustration with the poor quality of 'junk' nowadays. And sadly, as you illustrate with the dollar store example, our economy is 'based-on-waste' now. How long can this last? At least some folks are trying make things last - thank you so much.
Things go in cycles. Who knows, maybe some day people will realize that they would rather pay more than but their product again. Wake me up from my dream when that happens. LOL
Alley Picked You're right to be optimistic abour our economy becoming more intelligent. I shouldn't be so cynic. And hey, if you don't have a dream... Thanks again for your vids mate, they're very professional and entertaining.
Great review, thank you. Im making a pallet wood bed frame for my daughter and I think this is the best route to take.
Good Luck!
You get a like from me for the wife looking for me bit, that’s me while in the garage
I came across your video as I start a new project. Thanks for the review.
I'm curious your thoughts about a question I have.
But first, ANY stain will darken the color with additional coats. But, since this is described as an "all-in-one" product, I guess it's fair to criticize it's darkening of color due to lack of poly coverage. Definitely more color control with a two step process. Especially if a lighter color is desired.
I've used the brush on version as well. Brush selection is important for decent results. Just as important is the surface profile being covered. Any tight inside corners make use of the brush-on product difficult.
Another consideration, for either product type, is stain color and satin/gloss finish. As with paint, I find darker colors are more difficult to get "right". As a dark finish will highlight surface/finish imperfections. Gloss finish adds even more difficulty (over satin). I tried refinishing a raised panel cabinet door using the darker (Bombay Mahogany) color in the brush-on product. It did not go well. But, I now wonder if the spray-on would have worked better.
This brings me to my thought.
I wonder how using the brush-on product would work, if using a spray gun to apply? Thoughts?
My guess is that it would be better. However, I just think that if you use a product that requires so much special attention, it's not really a good product. I just don't ever see myself using either the brush on or spray on polyshades for any reason. If you are looking for quality results or even near quality, I dont know why anybody would grab this stuff. You would have to be in a real hurry and not be too picky about the results. Sounds like you have had some success but as most other comments I get, it can be tricky to use this stuff. I just don't have enough desire or need to experiment with it. Thanks for watching Alley Picked. Tom
@@AlleyPicked Thanks for th3 reply.
The ONLY reason for using the Polyshades brush-on version was the inability to find.a readily available stain in the desired color (in my case, the dark Bombay Mahogany). Also, because I was refinishing a piece that already had a finish on it, I felt the added pigments in an all-in-one or gel stain would work better. As the refinishing of the piece would not likely absorb much stain.
Refinishing ALWAYS seems to require experimentation. Just wondering if you had experience with spraying this stuff (Either airless or HVLP).
Very helpful, thanks!
I recently took on a big project, building 15 interior doors for our house. I cheaped out a built them out of birch, not realizing how hard it is to get a even finish on this species. So I have been playing with different techniques to get a even finish. I have a huge amount of time into this project so I really don’t want to screw it up now that I’m at the finishing process. I have considered having them professionally finished $$$$.
I’m seriously thinking about giving this product a try.
Has anyone tried this on birch or maple??
Or does anyone have recommendations on how to apply a dark stain?
Great video by the way.
I just finished a birch chair last week. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/FqYxVJENBzo/видео.html
I used a minwax dark walnut stain. I was surprised myself how difficult it was to get an even stain.
I gave it 3 coats. One trick I used which you can see in the video is after applying the stain I dry brushed it. You don't want too much stain on the wood...just enough. It's takes a little practice. Dry brushing, wiping the brush off with a rag, dry brush again, always in the direction of the grain, repeat until you get a decent even finish. I did this 3 times. Let it dry overnight between coats. The finish I ended up with is not perfect but I was satisfied with it. I would stay away from one step garbage. This Sunday 8am, I am reviewing Varathane One step garbage in my video release. Check it out and see how horrible it looks. Thanks for watching -- hope this helps. Tom
My plantation shutters are like this medium golden color and I’d like them more darker, would you recommend this spray? Don’t really care if it obscures the wood
The spray is ok -- don't use the brush on stuff. Maybe you can test in on a small section and if you dont like it, clean it off with paint thinner before it dries... Just a thought.
do you know if you can use this on faux wood?
I would think you could. You probably want to lightly sand in order for the poly shades to adhere well enough.
Hi, I am thinking about using this or something like this to "fix" a small section of my wood floor (I am not picky about perfect matching, just want to put something down so it is not further damaged by water spot). DO I understand that I will need to sand the area down using 220 grit paper before and between each application?
I sort of cringe when I hear you say that you want to fix a small section of your floor using the polyshades spray. How bad is the floor? Here's what I would suggest. Clean the section of the floor using very fine steel wool (0000) and a little paint thinner or mineral spirits. After it dries, you can use some wipe on oil based stain to match the existing wood color. After the stain dries, you can use some polyurethane. I just think if you are looking for a quick fix with that spray. you might end up with a disaster if you are not careful of experienced using that stuff.
@@AlleyPicked Thanks for the reply! The floor is fine (original floor in our house bought new in 1997) but there are 3 little sections about 3-4 sq ft each (in front of the kitchen sink, in front of the front and back door) that have minor water damage where the clear coat is peeling off. I really just want to "fix" it to prevent further damage. Maybe I will follow your advice and go the more conventional route using stain and poly separately. I have never done this before but I am willing to give it a try. I was thinking about getting a small orbital sander for the task, but from what you said it sounds like I can just use fine steel wool instead?
According to the instructions it is recommended to lightly sand before using for good adhesion.
Exactly why if you’re smart, you buy local furniture from small businesses. Like from handy men trying to make it
You are asking too much .. for one it’s not a professional grade product.. it’s not to finish fine furniture. It for a cheap project at home or to touch up some..
You are correct. My expectations are too high. I recently reviewed the similar Varathane product which I found to be even worse. Here's a link in case you are interested in watching it. Thanks for your feedback. ruclips.net/video/qQb90M3iCs4/видео.html
To much poly makes the wood look like plastic
Take of your cap
Ok, Tony Soprano
Garbage