N Scale Train Orders Episode 1
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- First episode of a new monthly series in keeping your model railroad running. Each month, we'll look at something that has caused grief on my railroad and how i ultimately fixed it. This month, a general look at trackwork that could be causing you problems.
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Footage is captured with an iPhone 11 and narrated in real-time during the recording through a headset mic.
Video is assembled/edited with Microsoft's Clipchamp video editing software.
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Thanks for the tips. I would like to share that - Recently I had derailment issues on a loop of Kato double track I purchased used. I did not know about the easement transition pieces used between the super elevated track and flat tracks. Thankfully a friend was familiar with the easement pieces and the direction arrows on the underside. Once I rearranged the tracks correctly all my gremlins were gone. This was a hard problem to troubleshoot as there was no obvious signs and Kato track is mostly problem free. I enjoy your tips and videos - thanks again 👍🏿
oh yes, that is a really big issue that i see people not knowing about the easement pieces. when i first bought the superelevated curves i bought them as two full loop sets which came with the easement pieces so that's how I knew it needed them. i don't think it's clearly explained if you purchase the pieces individually but without them - it's like you said - derailment.
Talk about perfect timing, I have just went through what you described here. I created a yard ladder by hand laying my own turnouts. The ladder is in an inconvenient position so it has to be perfect. Short story, it wasn’t. It made running that area no fun, and subsequently I felt like the answer was to just tear it all down. After a few days to cool down, I decided to add a small section to the opposite side of the layout. Something easy to reach, and would be an easy win. Then I removed the part of the ladder that had failed and replaced it with Peco switches. Do to the awkward location, I ended up having to redo it because of missing the rail joiners and soldering them that way. Having the easy win at the opposite end helped me keep going. Now that it is all working as it should, I am enjoying the layout once again. Your advice is spot on. Thanks for sharing. It’s nice to know that I am not alone in this situation.
Great tips. I’m a little over a year in on my layout and have had to rip up and start over on some things. It’s beyond frustrating at times but when I get to work on it, there is a lot of satisfaction in it. The best thing I tell myself is that there is no rush and I am having fun learning. Thanks for the video!
Excellent tips, not sure if you know or not, but micromark makes a N scale inspection car, its a clear flat car that helped me trouble shoot a row of switches that I continuously had derailments on. At least in my case completely worth the $20 to be able to see exactly what was going on with pushing through the section.
i've seen it in the magazines but never purchased one. i prefer the traditional method of watching my train repeatedly derail, cursing loudly, making an adjustment, repeat, pouring a whiskey, cursing some more, making more adjustments, then finally it works.
awesome video thx for sharing.😊😊👍👍
Please buy a tripod, that pan to pick up the sculpting tools about made me lose my lunch :D
That was a very helpful video with track issues. We all have them and there is a simple fix most of the time. I had a problem with a single turnout. Just kept getting derailments far derailments. Come to fine out it was in a bind. Simple fix took out didn’t really need it. Back to last video on the GE C 39-8. After watching i decided to get at least one if not 2 . They will work in my era. I’m getting the N S unit. Thanks for sharing. I do like these type of videos. Have a good week. 😎😎 👍
ah yes - a turnout wedged in too tight - or a product of swelling track in high humidity will definitely bind the points - just like a door in a house. good catch. you won't be disappointed in the Dash 8. They're so detailed and the sound is just perfect.
Thanks for all these great tips.
CANSTOCK CARS for the win! I could use 4 to 6 more, 8 to pad the fleet. 4 to boost up the interest in the Cannery.
Cleaning the wheels on the locomotive is always an issue with me.
I hate taking them apart for fear of breaking a piece off.
Is there a way to clean the axels at the contact point without taking them off constantly.
oh yes, don't take the wheels off - that's definitely asking for trouble. eventually you're going to knock them out of gauge and that's the end of that. to clean the wheels, you can get a track cleaning device that the locomotive sits in and the wheels turn against pads - i show that in an upcoming video. or you can use the old school method - take an electronics cleaner and spray it on a paper towel. put one set of trucks on the track and the other on the paper towel (also over the tracks). turn the power up and let the wheels spin while you hold the loco in place. run it forward and backward then switch sides.
#4 kato turn outs have caused a lot of derails, there is a modification that I did to all of mine. You would would how many guys that do not know how to use one. I have also found with Kato track you need to solder them in a 3 foot length, I have also found the rail is not always flat when they are joined so when I solder then I sue a piece of wood so when soldered they are even.
You really covered the track issues well. thanks!!
those #4 are pesky. if there's not enough straight track leading up to the points, it's going to be 50/50 on the derail. i tried to give each one just enough straight run so loco and car trucks have enough time to straighten out - pretty much stops them from picking the point. i've soldered uncooperative joints but most of mine aren't. good idea lining them up - i've fixed a couple that were soldered and joiner was just enough out to make a bump - and small bumps have big consequences in n scale.
@@AlleghenyNorthern There was a guy on the "tube" that showed how to fix # 4 on the throw if I find it again I will give all the info. Mine after the mod works well no more derail.
yes, I use a ramp meter and I found in some cases after I soldered them my signal improved. I did leave regular rail joints between 3 FT sections for expansion. No derails in 3 years. 🙏
Do you burnish the rail after filing the joint? Thought filing created places for stuff to accumulate and mess up conductivity?
@@KenN.OXN.805 I have not had an issue when I use flux I use a micro brush on the joint. After I solder I use a stainless steel washer over the joint
Any advice for a relative newbie to operating DCC? I’ve been able to do simple operations but I’d like to starting MUing but it seems daunting with speed matching and decoder programming. Any locos you’d recommend to start with that run similar speeds? Is an MU something to setup in JMRI?
ok, so lots here. First, I don't use JMRI so I'm not sure about it. The Digitrax system I have is super easy to MU - once i have a lead loco selected, I hit the loco button a second time, select "MU" and then punch in the second address and complete the MU operation and they run together. As for speed matching, I've found Atlas locos run well together and ScaleTrains locos run well together without speed matching. i don't know if any of the brands cross well. In general, CVs 2, 5, and 6 adjust the speed curve. 3 and 4 are your acceleration and deceleration rates. I have a video that's a bit older but it covers some basic speed matching. One of the upcoming Train Orders videos will cover this again as it's a lot of work and a general pain in the ass but makes a huge difference in operation.
Really enjoying all your videos as a guy new to the hobby. I was wondering how you feel about your BLI SD40-2s after having them for some time? I'm considering getting a few but reviews seem to be all over the place. I really like the SD40-2 but I'm not inclined to start myself off with questionable units.
I hate them. I wish I would have never purchased them. I'm a huge SD40-2 fan and these ones suck. They don't pull worth a damn, one of them arrived missing an entire gear assembly - customer service sent me the wrong parts to make the repair. The sound is intermittent, even with clean track and wheels. The NS unit was so loose on it's truck mounts i had to adjust it with pads of electrical tape and the couplers on the Southern unit were so high they kept coming uncoupled. I ended up having to lower them by filing the pilot to align with the MicroTrains gauge. I have Kato SD40-2 which aren't as detailed but are 100% better runners and that goes for the Intermountain versions, too. ScaleTrains is getting ready to release their versions and I'd save my money for those if I was you.
@AlleghenyNorthern Thank you. I appreciate you saving me the headache. I'll keep an eye out for those Scale Trains ones.
Interesting gadget, I’ll have get one. 👍🏻
I've used it more for wheels than i have for track - but it's a good piece of maintenance equipment to have.