It is best to replace the bearings as soon as you hear the bearings become noisy as I have been unemployed for the last 5 1/2 years & I kept waiting until I scraped up enough funds then I heard the diff gears in my car start to hum at around 60 km/h (40 mph). The diff is a Dana M80 & I spent about $200 AUD on new pinion & side bearings,also on the diff oil,I rebuilt the diff in September 2014 & it had no pinion preload on the pinion bearings,the inner bearing race got damaged so had zero newton meters of pinion bearing preload. The diff still did have a bit of a hum at 60 km/h after I blued the gears in with Prussian blue bearing dye & set the diff lash up the same as what it was before (0.12 mm),the tooth contact pattern was good but because the gears were unevenly worn due to a bad pinion bearing, it was impossible to replicate the tooth contact pattern as if I was using brand new or good used gears. So all I did is drove the car around for nearly the last 3 years (about 40,000 kms or almost 25,000 miles since the rebuild) & the gears have slowly got quieter, I know the gears went from a hum in 2014 when I went into town & went over the bridge which is arch shaped,which is where I heard most of the noise to a faint wine which I heard tonight when I drove the car. So, the gears are polishing the high spots off themselves at different loads,so it's going to get to the the point that the diff will end up totally quiet,don't worry, I know of a mechanic who just thinks that I'll blow the diff up.
i love all the people talking about the angle of your shaft, obv. they dont know nothin about the design of it, its not like others where they require shims.
You do not have an understanding of drive shaft angles, see my comment above. Angle at the t-case and angle at the axle are within 5 degree of each other. This is how you set it up to prevent vibration. You do not point the pinion bearing straight at the transfer case, this is not acceptable and will generate driveline vibrations. Google.
Eleven, you are 100% wrong. You'll chew through bearings/U-joints like crazy with that angle. Axle should be tilted about 1-3 degree above the driveshaft angle. This will compensate for axle dip down when accelerating and keep the U-joints running smooth. U-joints were never designed to continually operate at an angle difference like that.
double cardan joints need to be in line with the driveshaft, most trucks do not use double cardan joints and therefore only have parallel with the output on the transfer case, his angle is not wrong.
@@Moosetraks21 my dodge ram had the double u joint set up in the back. When I rebuilt another rear for the truck it came with the pinion yoke that accepts a ujoint. So my truck now has 1 ujoint in the back instead of 2. I used the same driveshaft but removed the 2nd joint. Will this be okay? My new gear set has whine on decel so I want to make sure it's not because of the driveshaft angle.
*Tcase end was okay, Axle side was bad pinion bearing *I changed front AND rear to 4:11 *Pinion bearing was bad, nut was not the problem, but could have been. *Diff does NOT have to point directly to tcase, angle of ujoint at tcase and axle should be equal. If pointed at the tcase, axle angle would be different. *Its a GM 10 bolt, not a Dana... but equal to a Dana 44. *I dont do R&Ps, had a real mechanic do it for me. Thanks for watching...
You have to remove the pinion to do the bearing.. so, the axles and ring gear have to come out.. re-install means you have to get everything back in order again. tear down is easy.. install with proper measurements is not for the rookie.
@@elevenbravodotnetonyoutube you have to know something about what you're doing. if you were strictly changing bearings, and putting the same ring and pinion, and carrier back in to the same differential housing, if you keep the shims in order, putting them back in the same place you took them out from, everything in terms of pinion depth, and backlash should be the same. but you would need to check those things, not "close your eyes," and "shoot", hoping for the best. if you're going to change the ring and pinion, of course you would need to reset the pinion depth, to the ring gear, to that differential housing. and reset backlash. And there's different pre- load specs for new bearings vs. Old bearings. and of course you would put the pinion back in the differential, with a new crush sleeve, and then set pinion preload. but if you're changing something like the carrier or ring & pinion , it might not go back with the same shimming that it came out with, from the old parts. so you have to put it in, and check the pattern with the ring gear, likely a few times with different size shims, till you get an acceptable contact pattern on the ring gear where the pinion is messing with the ring gear.
my pinion bearing is only noisy right now. my mechanic said that there are no replacement rears available. total rebuild of rear, including axle bearings, is about $1400
05 ford Mustang makes awful noise. told it's rack and pinion in rear differential and bad bearings in transmission. when in park and running can't hear noise, but when inside driving can hear the noise when car is put in 1st gear the noise begins and continues while driving and changing gears.
You are exactly correct. Front and rear R&P ratios should be within 5% of each other. You do not run 4X4 on dry pavement otherwise you get driveline windup. You *could* install 4:11 in the rear and leave 3:08 in the front... *IF* you do *NOT* engage 4X4. This could allow a person to get front and rear rebulds on a budget... get the rear done while saving up for the front. However, have front and rear done before using 4X4.... obviously.
all these people criticizing a two u joint driveshaft angle thinking its supposed to be set up like a double cardan which has three u joints. Know what you are talking about before you criticize this guy.
Idk what an axle would cost but you can buy a rebuild kit for under $200 and just do it yourself. If you take it to a mechanic it's going to cost around $1000. I plan on doing mine myself. The main thing is, you have to have the right tools.
Yeah it went bad look at that pinon angle my lord.. Dude put a spacer to drop cross member or ur gonna keep doin that to ur rear end . Also that anoying vibration we all are in denial about under acceleration will disapear with at least 3/4" spacer... 5/8 - 2" depending on how high lift is
I've got a 2000 F-150 that's whining. I'm told it's the pinion bearing and the rear end needs to be rebuilt. Does that sound right? How much should I expect to pay someone for that work?
"rebuilding" a rear end would include new pinion and ring gear, all new bearings and seals. A simple repair would be all new bearing and seals, much cheaper. $$$= google the price of ring and pinion gears for your vehicle, they are fairly expensive, plus labor. I paid over $1,000 to have the front and rear of my '82 K5 Blazer (6.2l Detroit Diesel) rebuilt with new gears. Good luck.
you don't necessarily have to replace the ring and pinion, you need to do an inspection on them, and check the backlash. Bad bearings in my experience, tend to make a growling or dull scraping sound continuously.
@@elevenbravodotnetonyoutube that sounds pretty cheap for both axles being rebuilt. especially if rebuilt means new rings and pinions, and the labor setting the backlash and preload. Plus bearings and the labor associated with changing bearings.
Maybe you can help me! I have a 91 toyota pickup 4cy 22re. i had a whine when i coast, looked under pinion was leaking and driveshaft would wobble. got it fixed, a week later same thing.. whats causing it to break? bad u joint? loose nut? i also have vibration at 45 and 65 but 70 is smooth, im thinking thats my tires but not sure.. thank you
It's going to throw the speedometer off alot going from 3.08 to 3.73 gear ratio. I went from 3.08 to 3.42 and mine was about 13mph fast. My S10 is a 97 so it has an electronic speedometer. I bought a speedometer correction module from Dakota Digital. It's about $100. Actually it is really important if you put big tires on change the gears on these newer vehicles with VSS sensors. The VSS signal tells the CPU. Well it calibrates your transmission shift points and gives you the correct speed on your speedometer. If you don't use a speedo correction module it can really fuck up your vehicle. You can also correct the speedometer with tire size and gearing. For instance if you're running huge 38 in tires you might be able to use super low gears like?? 5.88 ratio. Might just get lucky and everything will be within 5mph of being correct. It's way cheaper to just get a speedo correction/ recalibration module. They're adjustable so after it's installed you can calibrate the speedometer to whatever mph you need to keep your transmission shift points the same too.
Not after installing a raised steering arm for the lift that was on it. New U joints that dont wear out fast (because of the worn pinion bearing)... all collectively, it rode like a Cadillac.
You sire, are correct! $1,100 investment and a mechanic changed out the 3.08 gears to 4.11 and full repairs to the spider gears in the rear. Front and rear are geared to match!
dieselwarriordotcom ..You should of gotten hin to do a dropped crossmount for the trans to get the driveshaft more in line.....No matter who does it uits gonna break again....The crush collar can only handle only so much stress.........
@@elevenbravodotnetonyoutube I've had rear ends last 200,000 plus miles, and are still going strong with no sign they're going out.it depends how you're using the vehicle, if you're using a half ton as a one-ton on a regular basis, it's going to shorten the life of it.
Succinct, clear narration and great footage (easy to see what's going on) This video is a breath of fresh air. Thanks heaps, you're a legend.
It is best to replace the bearings as soon as you hear the bearings become noisy as I have been unemployed for the last 5 1/2 years & I kept waiting until I scraped up enough funds then I heard the diff gears in my car start to hum at around 60 km/h (40 mph).
The diff is a Dana M80 & I spent about $200 AUD on new pinion & side bearings,also on the diff oil,I rebuilt the diff in September 2014 & it had no pinion preload on the pinion bearings,the inner bearing race got damaged so had zero newton meters of pinion bearing preload.
The diff still did have a bit of a hum at 60 km/h after I blued the gears in with Prussian blue bearing dye & set the diff lash up the same as what it was before (0.12 mm),the tooth contact pattern was good but because the gears were unevenly worn due to a bad pinion bearing, it was impossible to replicate the tooth contact pattern as if I was using brand new or good used gears.
So all I did is drove the car around for nearly the last 3 years (about 40,000 kms or almost 25,000 miles since the rebuild) & the gears have slowly got quieter, I know the gears went from a hum in 2014 when I went into town & went over the bridge which is arch shaped,which is where I heard most of the noise to a faint wine which I heard tonight when I drove the car.
So, the gears are polishing the high spots off themselves at different loads,so it's going to get to the the point that the diff will end up totally quiet,don't worry, I know of a mechanic who just thinks that I'll blow the diff up.
Thank you for the video. Showing the drive line excess play was very helpful.
i love all the people talking about the angle of your shaft, obv. they dont know nothin about the design of it, its not like others where they require shims.
look at the angle the driveshaft is fitted to the rear axle. No wonder it's eating bearings.
You do not have an understanding of drive shaft angles, see my comment above. Angle at the t-case and angle at the axle are within 5 degree of each other. This is how you set it up to prevent vibration. You do not point the pinion bearing straight at the transfer case, this is not acceptable and will generate driveline vibrations. Google.
Eleven, you are 100% wrong. You'll chew through bearings/U-joints like crazy with that angle. Axle should be tilted about 1-3 degree above the driveshaft angle. This will compensate for axle dip down when accelerating and keep the U-joints running smooth. U-joints were never designed to continually operate at an angle difference like that.
double cardan joints need to be in line with the driveshaft, most trucks do not use double cardan joints and therefore only have parallel with the output on the transfer case, his angle is not wrong.
@@Moosetraks21 my dodge ram had the double u joint set up in the back. When I rebuilt another rear for the truck it came with the pinion yoke that accepts a ujoint. So my truck now has 1 ujoint in the back instead of 2. I used the same driveshaft but removed the 2nd joint. Will this be okay? My new gear set has whine on decel so I want to make sure it's not because of the driveshaft angle.
*Tcase end was okay, Axle side was bad pinion bearing *I changed front AND rear to 4:11 *Pinion bearing was bad, nut was not the problem, but could have been. *Diff does NOT have to point directly to tcase, angle of ujoint at tcase and axle should be equal. If pointed at the tcase, axle angle would be different. *Its a GM 10 bolt, not a Dana... but equal to a Dana 44. *I dont do R&Ps, had a real mechanic do it for me.
Thanks for watching...
Rb
You have to remove the pinion to do the bearing.. so, the axles and ring gear have to come out.. re-install means you have to get everything back in order again.
tear down is easy.. install with proper measurements is not for the rookie.
@@elevenbravodotnetonyoutube you have to know something about what you're doing. if you were strictly changing bearings, and putting the same ring and pinion, and carrier back in to the same differential housing, if you keep the shims in order, putting them back in the same place you took them out from, everything in terms of pinion depth, and backlash should be the same. but you would need to check those things, not "close your eyes," and "shoot", hoping for the best. if you're going to change the ring and pinion, of course you would need to reset the pinion depth, to the ring gear, to that differential housing. and reset backlash. And there's different pre- load specs for new bearings vs. Old bearings. and of course you would put the pinion back in the differential, with a new crush sleeve, and then set pinion preload. but if you're changing something like the carrier or ring & pinion , it might not go back with the same shimming that it came out with, from the old parts. so you have to put it in, and check the pattern with the ring gear, likely a few times with different size shims, till you get an acceptable contact pattern on the ring gear where the pinion is messing with the ring gear.
my pinion bearing is only noisy right now. my mechanic said that there are no replacement rears available. total rebuild of rear, including axle bearings, is about $1400
OR the pinion nut came loose, tighten the pinion nut to the pinion pre-load specs.
That would be the first thing I would try
GM 10 bolt on an '82 K5 Blazer, 6.2L diesel. Thanks for watching.
Could it be from that angle caused by the lift kit?
05 ford Mustang makes awful noise. told it's rack and pinion in rear differential and bad bearings in transmission. when in park and running can't hear noise, but when inside driving can hear the noise when car is put in 1st gear the noise begins and continues while driving and changing gears.
Well how much is that going to cost dude I thought you was going to tell me I'd really like to know I got the same s***
if you change the ratio to 3.73 : 1 from 3.08 : 1 you may want to change the front diff as well. Not good to have two different ratios.
You are exactly correct. Front and rear R&P ratios should be within 5% of each other. You do not run 4X4 on dry pavement otherwise you get driveline windup.
You *could* install 4:11 in the rear and leave 3:08 in the front... *IF* you do *NOT* engage 4X4. This could allow a person to get front and rear rebulds on a budget... get the rear done while saving up for the front.
However, have front and rear done before using 4X4.... obviously.
I have a truck that has some howling noise coming from the rear end, but only under load/in the throttle. I assume its this or the wheel bearings?
So what will be the cost of all that if you couldn't do it
❤
does the pinion bearing comes out from the back? the pumpkin side with the bolts?
Thanks for confirming what I suspected about my diff. $$ arrrgh
all these people criticizing a two u joint driveshaft angle thinking its supposed to be set up like a double cardan which has three u joints. Know what you are talking about before you criticize this guy.
What about play on the other end of the driveshaft? From the tcase end
Idk what an axle would cost but you can buy a rebuild kit for under $200 and just do it yourself. If you take it to a mechanic it's going to cost around $1000. I plan on doing mine myself. The main thing is, you have to have the right tools.
I was quoted 2.4K for mine!
The bearing on my dodge was 25 bucks seal was 7, yea screw it just get another axle lol
Plus there's no telling if you get a salvage axle what condition it's going to be in.
Diff supposed to be pointed at the transfer case, Get some shims and do it right..
Could this make any damage to the transmission?
Yeah it went bad look at that pinon angle my lord.. Dude put a spacer to drop cross member or ur gonna keep doin that to ur rear end . Also that anoying vibration we all are in denial about under acceleration will disapear with at least 3/4" spacer... 5/8 - 2" depending on how high lift is
Make sure you film the install.
I've got a 2000 F-150 that's whining. I'm told it's the pinion bearing and the rear end needs to be rebuilt.
Does that sound right? How much should I expect to pay someone for that work?
"rebuilding" a rear end would include new pinion and ring gear, all new bearings and seals.
A simple repair would be all new bearing and seals, much cheaper.
$$$= google the price of ring and pinion gears for your vehicle, they are fairly expensive, plus labor. I paid over $1,000 to have the front and rear of my '82 K5 Blazer (6.2l Detroit Diesel) rebuilt with new gears.
Good luck.
you don't necessarily have to replace the ring and pinion, you need to do an inspection on them, and check the backlash. Bad bearings in my experience, tend to make a growling or dull scraping sound continuously.
@@elevenbravodotnetonyoutube that sounds pretty cheap for both axles being rebuilt. especially if rebuilt means new rings and pinions, and the labor setting the backlash and preload. Plus bearings and the labor associated with changing bearings.
I know it's an old post with old comments, but Yeah, the pinion is off a whole lot!!!
I'm surprised the ujoints have held up.
Maybe you can help me!
I have a 91 toyota pickup 4cy 22re. i had a whine when i coast, looked under pinion was leaking and driveshaft would wobble. got it fixed, a week later same thing.. whats causing it to break? bad u joint? loose nut? i also have vibration at 45 and 65 but 70 is smooth, im thinking thats my tires but not sure..
thank you
+jeff webber It may be simply a bad u joint, but Im a driveway mechanic and I do better hands on. Good luck!
My 96 GMC K1500 had 373 stock.
Just put my pinion in with new bearing and it still has some play, anyone know what to do?
How bad will it throw your speedodometer off ?
It's going to throw the speedometer off alot going from 3.08 to 3.73 gear ratio. I went from 3.08 to 3.42 and mine was about 13mph fast. My S10 is a 97 so it has an electronic speedometer. I bought a speedometer correction module from Dakota Digital. It's about $100. Actually it is really important if you put big tires on change the gears on these newer vehicles with VSS sensors. The VSS signal tells the CPU. Well it calibrates your transmission shift points and gives you the correct speed on your speedometer. If you don't use a speedo correction module it can really fuck up your vehicle. You can also correct the speedometer with tire size and gearing. For instance if you're running huge 38 in tires you might be able to use super low gears like?? 5.88 ratio. Might just get lucky and everything will be within 5mph of being correct. It's way cheaper to just get a speedo correction/ recalibration module. They're adjustable so after it's installed you can calibrate the speedometer to whatever mph you need to keep your transmission shift points the same too.
Does your truck shake going Down the road?
Not after installing a raised steering arm for the lift that was on it. New U joints that dont wear out fast (because of the worn pinion bearing)... all collectively, it rode like a Cadillac.
How do you know it was bad at first?
Excessive vibration, U joints wearing out in 4 months. Thats about it.
you cant change gears unless you do both front and rear Differentials to the same gear!!!
You sire, are correct! $1,100 investment and a mechanic changed out the 3.08 gears to 4.11 and full repairs to the spider gears in the rear. Front and rear are geared to match!
dieselwarriordotcom ..You should of gotten hin to do a dropped crossmount for the trans to get the driveshaft more in line.....No matter who does it uits gonna break again....The crush collar can only handle only so much stress.........
@@elevenbravodotnetonyoutube they would have to be, unless you're going to only use it in two-wheel drive.
Any idea what caused the play?
+Ankit Rai They just wear out... This was on a 30+ year old truck with 200K+ miles, not surprising it was bad.
@@elevenbravodotnetonyoutube I've had rear ends last 200,000 plus miles, and are still going strong with no sign they're going out.it depends how you're using the vehicle, if you're using a half ton as a one-ton on a regular basis, it's going to shorten the life of it.
That's what happens when you jack your truck up
Do it yourself I did saved bunch $