When the brand states marketing name for an ingredient instead of it's INCI - this is a big BO for me because I understand the production is done by inexperienced person and may lead to potential health risks. Good tips!
Oh wow, I didn’t know about ordering the components of the ingredients too! I used to just take it as a given that smaller amounts would naturally end up near the bottom of the list but I see that’s not always the case!
Below 1% you can name them in any order. That's why manufacturers add 0.01% of some natural extracts and place them closer to 1% line, but move preservative to the end of the list
I have to admit that I didn't realize that you needed to break down the components of an ingredient in that way. I don't currently use ingredients that have their own ingredients but this is great to know! Looking at the list I was wondering about something else now. I always thought it was necessary to include the INCI name AND the common name for an ingredient. For example: saying Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil. Is that not the case? Is it something to do that makes it easier for a consumer to read, but isn't actually a legal obligation? And thank you so much for all the wonderful information you put out! You and your blog have definitely been a constant go-to for help.
Including the common name with the INCI name is not required in Canada and I don't *think* it is required anywhere else, but be sure to check with the relevant regulatory body in the country/countries you're selling in to be sure :) It definitely makes it easier for the consumer to recognize ingredients, but it also makes ingredient lists longer, so there's clear reasons for a company to do one or the other.
Would you need to break down the ingredients of an infused oil in the same way? Or is it ok to just say something like "chamomile infused sunflower oil" but using the proper INCIs?
Please can someone help me understand it a little further, so for Preservative Euxy k903 it contains Benzyl Alcohol 78.0% - 84.0%, Benzoic Acid 11.0% - 13.0%, Dehydroacetic Acid 6.5% - 7.5%, how do you get the middle range numbers.
The difference between 78-84 is 6. 78 + (6/2) = 81% 13 minus 11 = 2. 2 divided in half = 1. 11 + 1 = 12% 7.5 minus 6.5 = 1. 1 divided in half = 0.5. 7.5 + 0.5 = 8%. 81 + 12 + 8 = 101, so we need to lose a % somewhere to get this to add up to 100%. Given the provided ranges we cannot know exactly where this % needs to come from. I'd probably choose to drop it from the Benzyl Alcohol because that is the largest range and the highest usage. All that said; the maximum level for this preservative is 1.2%. Even if we use the highest end of the range for the most prominent component of this preservative, with rounding, that's 1% benzyl alcohol. That falls into the "ingredients used at or below 1% can be listed in any order" rule, so you actually don't have to worry ingredient list order with this ingredient as all the ingredients will fall below the 1% line.
You have to do this for all ingredients that have multi-INCI INCIs-preservatives, emulsifiers, blended gums, blended actives, etc. Hydrosols have one INCI, so there's nothing to break down :)
Insurance ?…. Do you recommend insurance and what kind ? I’m giving my stuff to friends but want to see at market so what type of insurance for liability would I need ! Or recommend !.yikes , scary ! Tysm for your expertise !
I definitely recommend it! If you're in the USA or Canada, check out the guilds (US: www.soapguild.org/, Canada: hbbg.ca) for their insurance plans. You need to be a member, but the plans are generally much more affordable than going to an insurance broker alone, AND they've been developed by people who really know what a small skincare business needs, coverage-wise.
You absolutely can. Check out my niacinamide (Vitamin B3) deep dive (ruclips.net/video/EeKTjIc-eqY/видео.html) to learn more, but basically, mildly acidic + niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is not something you need to worry about too much.
Thank you so much! All your videos are so informative❤ I just have a question. I've noticed that some handmade lipgloss businesses list 'E oil' in the ingredients list but I'm not sure what it is. I thought it could be Vitamin E but that is already listed in the ingredients. Do you know what 'E oil' could be? Essential oils maybe?
Thanks for watching! You'd really have to ask them; vitamin E should be listed as tocopherol (or tocopherol acetate-check the INCI for what was used) on ingredient lists. "E oil" is not an INCI name or a trade/brand name for anything (as far as I can find, at least). The fact that it is so vague that neither of us have a firm guess as to what it is supposed to be is rather concerning.
@@HumblebeeAndMe Thank you. I definitely should ask. Before I started formulating I wouldn't have payed much attention to the ingredients on labels but now I do. That E oil set off alarm bells in my head
Thanks alot for this. And i kindly want to ask, using the same examples you've given us okay. So if an overall formulation calls for 1% Euxyl K 903, do you multiply the 1% by the middle range figures or numbers. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for this. I was listening the INCI ingredients to but I was doing it wrong too. I wasn't listening it in the percentage it was in. It doesn't always say the % it's in though. Take your example if Ritamulse SCG it has a couple ingredients in it. How do you know the % of each ingredient that's in it?
I'm glad you found this helpful :) For % breakdowns, you'll have to dive into the documentation for the ingredient. Sometimes it's in the SDS, sometimes it's in a marketing data sheet, and sometimes you might have to reach out to your supplier to ask. It's often helpful to look at data from multiple suppliers as some supply more data than others. Good luck :)
Cetearyl alcohol is an INCI on its own, so you don't need to break it down further (though I suppose you could if you wanted to). There are quite a few ingredients out there like this; C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES is another example. You'd put C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES on your ingredient list even though you know the breakdown is 70-78% palmitic acid and 20-28% stearic acid.
How do you list micas and colorants? If you have more than one mica and they have some of the same ingredients do you have to list them separately or can you group them? Micas, dyes, lakes, all stump me!
Micas + colourants are listed the same way as any other multi-INCI ingredient; you'll need to list all the component ingredients and sort by % if it's above the 1% line. You should be combining any identical ingredients so nothing appears twice. Depending on the product type, the colourants might be listed after a "may contain"; an example of where you'll see this is a line of lipsticks, where they've all got the same base, but each lipstick is a different colour and therefore has a different blend of colourants. In that case, the label would include every colourant used in the entire lipstick line after "may contain" rather than having an individual label for every colour of lipstick in the line. Check with your federal regulations to confirm this, though!
@@HumblebeeAndMe perfect, thank you so much! I live in Saskatoon so our laws will be the same! I really appreciate you getting back to me so quickly and all the help you’ve given me that you don’t even know about! You are an amazing creator and we (your audience) are so blessed that have decided to share your expertise with us. 💜💜💜
I am so bad with math but I want to make sure I am labeling properly. I don't understand how 5 x 60 = 3, 5 x 25 = 1.25, or how 5 x 15 = 0.75. Am I missing something here? Isn't it 300, 125, and 75? I understand the 5% is because the Ritamulse is 5% of the overall formula and the 60, 25, and 15 are the percentages of the Ritamulse, but the math there is confusing me.
Hi! What you're missing is the %, which moves the decimal two spaces to the left :) So it's not 5 x 60, but 5 x 0.6, because 0.6 = 60%. You can type the % right into your calculator and it'll move that decimal point for you, which is very handy. You might find it easier to think around the numbers if you start with halves rather than %-I certainly find that to be a more intuitive way to start :) Five divided in half (5 ÷ 2) = 2.5 Half = 50% 5 x 50% = 2.5 5 x 0.5 = 2.5 For the first calculation, another way to think of it is: what is 60% of 5? 5 x 60% = 5 x 0.6 = 3. When multiplying by percentages that are less than 100%, the resulting number will always be less than the number you started with because you're effectively dividing the number :) Does that help?
Question, how to keep trade secrets while revealing what’s in the product. Example, KFC has trade secrets on what they mix in the chicken, Coke is another example, they never reveal what’s mixed in the Coke !
This will likely vary by country/regulatory body, but the FDA requires you to request "trade secret" status, and this is granted VERY rarely. "First, be aware that it’s unlikely that FDA will grant your request. We’ve received only a handful of trade secret requests in the last 20 years and have granted such a request only once. " You can learn more here: www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/trade-secret-ingredients So, generally, you probably can't keep the ingredients secret. Precise concentrations, manufacture methods, and precise brands/types of products with the same INCI can be a big part of a product outcome, though, and all those things would remain secret with a complete ingredient list.
Hello Marie, please I want to ask, how about botanical Extracts. Should it be done using this method as well. And should list all the components too. For example Chamomile extract sold by lotioncrafter has an ingredient in an ingredient 😊 which is, Glycerine 40% - 60%, Water 40% - 60%, Chamomile recuitita flower extract 2% - 5%, Potassium sorbate 0.2% - 0.3%, Sodium benzoate 0.2% - 0.3%. Thank you
Yes, absolutely, you'd need to break those down and distribute them properly as well :) Though, with a break down of so many smaller chunks + the usage rate of a botanical extract, only the glycerin and water ever will fall above the 1% line and actually need to be in order.
I don’t know of any country where that is legal, but you’d have to double check the regulations in your country/countries where you sell. You could definitely have a QR code to help people learn more about the ingredients, though.
Wow 🤯 running a small business is no joke, but I enjoy learning these important facts as I grow. Thank you so much for sharing these facts.
When the brand states marketing name for an ingredient instead of it's INCI - this is a big BO for me because I understand the production is done by inexperienced person and may lead to potential health risks. Good tips!
This was a very well put together video! Thank you for sharing ❤
❤️ Thanks for watching!
I wish we can bypass the INCI, sometimes the INCI is so long that you need bigger labels. But I do as instructed.
Your amazing
Oh wow, I didn’t know about ordering the components of the ingredients too! I used to just take it as a given that smaller amounts would naturally end up near the bottom of the list but I see that’s not always the case!
I'm so glad you found this helpful! ❤️
Below 1% you can name them in any order. That's why manufacturers add 0.01% of some natural extracts and place them closer to 1% line, but move preservative to the end of the list
You and I both. How much information can a label hold.
Wow! This video is packed with very vital information and truly amazing all the depth you go into for usMarie and I’m so thankful
Off topic, but your hair looks fabulous!
I have to admit that I didn't realize that you needed to break down the components of an ingredient in that way. I don't currently use ingredients that have their own ingredients but this is great to know!
Looking at the list I was wondering about something else now. I always thought it was necessary to include the INCI name AND the common name for an ingredient. For example: saying Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil. Is that not the case? Is it something to do that makes it easier for a consumer to read, but isn't actually a legal obligation?
And thank you so much for all the wonderful information you put out! You and your blog have definitely been a constant go-to for help.
Including the common name with the INCI name is not required in Canada and I don't *think* it is required anywhere else, but be sure to check with the relevant regulatory body in the country/countries you're selling in to be sure :) It definitely makes it easier for the consumer to recognize ingredients, but it also makes ingredient lists longer, so there's clear reasons for a company to do one or the other.
Thank you for addressing this.
Hi Marie, can u do a video about sterilization of used glass bottles and plastic bottles for reuse?
Doing gods work. lol 🧚♂I love these concise educational vids.
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge with us Marie!
Amazing information I am working on cutting my labels as we speak.
Thanks for watching!
Wow thanks so much.I really needed this video
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting and vital to know! Thanks Marie ❤
Thank you for this knowledgeable video
I have questions, what if the they only list the INCI but don't have percentage of the INCI? May I know how to write the ingredient list then?
Good info. 😊
Would you need to break down the ingredients of an infused oil in the same way? Or is it ok to just say something like "chamomile infused sunflower oil" but using the proper INCIs?
May I ask what labels you use for your lip balms? I can not seem to find any good ones anywhere. Especially the clear ones.
Thank you. A nice reminder to be careful with this stuff.
Very much information thank you...
Hello Marie. Where do you get the lip balm labels shown in 0:26?
Please can someone help me understand it a little further, so for Preservative Euxy k903 it contains Benzyl Alcohol 78.0% - 84.0%, Benzoic Acid 11.0% - 13.0%, Dehydroacetic Acid 6.5% - 7.5%, how do you get the middle range numbers.
The difference between 78-84 is 6. 78 + (6/2) = 81%
13 minus 11 = 2. 2 divided in half = 1. 11 + 1 = 12%
7.5 minus 6.5 = 1. 1 divided in half = 0.5. 7.5 + 0.5 = 8%.
81 + 12 + 8 = 101, so we need to lose a % somewhere to get this to add up to 100%.
Given the provided ranges we cannot know exactly where this % needs to come from. I'd probably choose to drop it from the Benzyl Alcohol because that is the largest range and the highest usage.
All that said; the maximum level for this preservative is 1.2%. Even if we use the highest end of the range for the most prominent component of this preservative, with rounding, that's 1% benzyl alcohol. That falls into the "ingredients used at or below 1% can be listed in any order" rule, so you actually don't have to worry ingredient list order with this ingredient as all the ingredients will fall below the 1% line.
@@HumblebeeAndMe Marie, GOD BLESS YOU SO MUCH!!!!! YOU'RE THE BEST 🤩❣️🤩❣️🤩❣️🤩❣️
I’m so glad I chose to use only 100% natural raw ingredients - much easier to work out the lists!
Same rules apply though
Do you only do this for preservatives? Do you have to do this for hydrosols, or ingredients that have one inci name listed?
You have to do this for all ingredients that have multi-INCI INCIs-preservatives, emulsifiers, blended gums, blended actives, etc. Hydrosols have one INCI, so there's nothing to break down :)
@@HumblebeeAndMe okay thank you! Thanks for all your help!
Insurance ?…. Do you recommend insurance and what kind ? I’m giving my stuff to friends but want to see at market so what type of insurance for liability would I need ! Or recommend !.yikes , scary ! Tysm for your expertise !
I lost almost my whole business bc I didn't have insurance. It's VITAL. Especially in case of injury. You could get sued by anyone.
When you call the broker and tell them you want liability insurance for your products, they will advise you to which one you need.
I definitely recommend it! If you're in the USA or Canada, check out the guilds (US: www.soapguild.org/, Canada: hbbg.ca) for their insurance plans. You need to be a member, but the plans are generally much more affordable than going to an insurance broker alone, AND they've been developed by people who really know what a small skincare business needs, coverage-wise.
Thank you for sharing this video!!
@@HumblebeeAndMe Tysm !!!
Where did you get 5% from
I wish i knew it for my country
Thanks for this information. Where did you purchase your lip balm labels?
I had them professionally printed years ago when I sold things; the company has since closed up shop :(
Unrelated to this video but i wanted to know if it's ok to use rose hydrosol with niacinamide... because rose is slightly acidic
You absolutely can. Check out my niacinamide (Vitamin B3) deep dive (ruclips.net/video/EeKTjIc-eqY/видео.html) to learn more, but basically, mildly acidic + niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is not something you need to worry about too much.
Thank you so much! All your videos are so informative❤ I just have a question. I've noticed that some handmade lipgloss businesses list 'E oil' in the ingredients list but I'm not sure what it is. I thought it could be Vitamin E but that is already listed in the ingredients. Do you know what 'E oil' could be? Essential oils maybe?
Thanks for watching!
You'd really have to ask them; vitamin E should be listed as tocopherol (or tocopherol acetate-check the INCI for what was used) on ingredient lists.
"E oil" is not an INCI name or a trade/brand name for anything (as far as I can find, at least). The fact that it is so vague that neither of us have a firm guess as to what it is supposed to be is rather concerning.
@@HumblebeeAndMe Thank you.
I definitely should ask. Before I started formulating I wouldn't have payed much attention to the ingredients on labels but now I do. That E oil set off alarm bells in my head
Thanks alot for this. And i kindly want to ask, using the same examples you've given us okay. So if an overall formulation calls for 1% Euxyl K 903, do you multiply the 1% by the middle range figures or numbers. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for this. I was listening the INCI ingredients to but I was doing it wrong too. I wasn't listening it in the percentage it was in. It doesn't always say the % it's in though. Take your example if Ritamulse SCG it has a couple ingredients in it. How do you know the % of each ingredient that's in it?
I'm glad you found this helpful :) For % breakdowns, you'll have to dive into the documentation for the ingredient. Sometimes it's in the SDS, sometimes it's in a marketing data sheet, and sometimes you might have to reach out to your supplier to ask. It's often helpful to look at data from multiple suppliers as some supply more data than others. Good luck :)
Cetearyl Alcohol should be Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol?
Cetearyl alcohol is an INCI on its own, so you don't need to break it down further (though I suppose you could if you wanted to). There are quite a few ingredients out there like this; C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES is another example. You'd put C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES on your ingredient list even though you know the breakdown is 70-78% palmitic acid and 20-28% stearic acid.
@@HumblebeeAndMe right, I also assumed so
Will the supplier have this info if its not listed on the website?
It depends on the ingredient (and the supplier); it's a good idea to ask all the same!
How do you list micas and colorants? If you have more than one mica and they have some of the same ingredients do you have to list them separately or can you group them? Micas, dyes, lakes, all stump me!
Micas + colourants are listed the same way as any other multi-INCI ingredient; you'll need to list all the component ingredients and sort by % if it's above the 1% line. You should be combining any identical ingredients so nothing appears twice.
Depending on the product type, the colourants might be listed after a "may contain"; an example of where you'll see this is a line of lipsticks, where they've all got the same base, but each lipstick is a different colour and therefore has a different blend of colourants. In that case, the label would include every colourant used in the entire lipstick line after "may contain" rather than having an individual label for every colour of lipstick in the line. Check with your federal regulations to confirm this, though!
@@HumblebeeAndMe perfect, thank you so much! I live in Saskatoon so our laws will be the same! I really appreciate you getting back to me so quickly and all the help you’ve given me that you don’t even know about! You are an amazing creator and we (your audience) are so blessed that have decided to share your expertise with us. 💜💜💜
I am so bad with math but I want to make sure I am labeling properly.
I don't understand how 5 x 60 = 3, 5 x 25 = 1.25, or how 5 x 15 = 0.75. Am I missing something here?
Isn't it 300, 125, and 75?
I understand the 5% is because the Ritamulse is 5% of the overall formula and the 60, 25, and 15 are the percentages of the Ritamulse, but the math there is confusing me.
Hi! What you're missing is the %, which moves the decimal two spaces to the left :) So it's not 5 x 60, but 5 x 0.6, because 0.6 = 60%. You can type the % right into your calculator and it'll move that decimal point for you, which is very handy.
You might find it easier to think around the numbers if you start with halves rather than %-I certainly find that to be a more intuitive way to start :)
Five divided in half (5 ÷ 2) = 2.5
Half = 50%
5 x 50% = 2.5
5 x 0.5 = 2.5
For the first calculation, another way to think of it is: what is 60% of 5?
5 x 60% = 5 x 0.6 = 3.
When multiplying by percentages that are less than 100%, the resulting number will always be less than the number you started with because you're effectively dividing the number :)
Does that help?
Question, how to keep trade secrets while revealing what’s in the product.
Example, KFC has trade secrets on what they mix in the chicken, Coke is another example, they never reveal what’s mixed in the Coke !
This will likely vary by country/regulatory body, but the FDA requires you to request "trade secret" status, and this is granted VERY rarely. "First, be aware that it’s unlikely that FDA will grant your request. We’ve received only a handful of trade secret requests in the last 20 years and have granted such a request only once. "
You can learn more here: www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/trade-secret-ingredients
So, generally, you probably can't keep the ingredients secret. Precise concentrations, manufacture methods, and precise brands/types of products with the same INCI can be a big part of a product outcome, though, and all those things would remain secret with a complete ingredient list.
@@HumblebeeAndMe thank you !
If in Canada you have to add all that in French ugg
You don't-INCI is considered bilingual :) (Phew)
Can you teach us about waterless skincare?
Hi Marie, watching and following your video, plz allow me to discuss few issues privately
Hello Marie, please I want to ask, how about botanical Extracts. Should it be done using this method as well. And should list all the components too. For example Chamomile extract sold by lotioncrafter has an ingredient in an ingredient 😊 which is, Glycerine 40% - 60%, Water 40% - 60%, Chamomile recuitita flower extract 2% - 5%, Potassium sorbate 0.2% - 0.3%, Sodium benzoate 0.2% - 0.3%. Thank you
Yes, absolutely, you'd need to break those down and distribute them properly as well :) Though, with a break down of so many smaller chunks + the usage rate of a botanical extract, only the glycerin and water ever will fall above the 1% line and actually need to be in order.
Oh Lord ! 🤦🏾♀️ 😢. Thank you!!!!!!! So much Marie. You’re always be the best. 🥰🥰🥰🥰
Is it legal to QR the ingredients on a label?
I don’t know of any country where that is legal, but you’d have to double check the regulations in your country/countries where you sell. You could definitely have a QR code to help people learn more about the ingredients, though.
You look like Queen Elizabeth R. of England, no? WEIRD. Good video.
Welcome to new world pakistan welcome ❤❤❤ bawaG