It was hard to give this one back, I spent so much time admiring the grain patterns while I had it haha. Hans will be pleased to hear 😉 plenty more cat action to come. I will try to get some footage of the Magpies in the next video, they hang out in the back tree at lunchtime. 👍🙂
I have just discovered your channel a day ago...i like the fact that there are no blabbing and annoying music playing in the background. Maybe a little bit of explaining here and there will help a bit. But over all great video content...👌👍
Cheers buddy, I will keep the videos coming. I never was a fan of music overtaking the sounds of woodworking either. I always appreciate your watch and comment! 😺🙂
Thanks again buddy 👍🙂 yes the grain of the wood was stunning by the end, took me by surprise. Definitely need to get some more Teak furniture, such a beautiful wood 👍👍😺
What a stunning result! It's rather empowering to see the improvement that can be made without power tools, maybe I'll get a couple of projects off the to-do list that had be on hold until I became proficient with electric sanders and the like
I would definitely recommend getting a hang of hand sanding before moving onto power tools. Electric sanding is fantastic but sometimes a simple sanding block going with the grain is all you need. If your hand sanding get your self some 80, 120, 240 grit paper, and a sanding block. Then you will be flying 👍👍🙂
@@ejwoodhouserestorations2796 I recently refinished our MCM teak dining table, too, that we've had for 35 years...even had our babies latched to it in one of those baby seats that slide on the table...(haha, what a mess that was and what were we thinking?? 😊)...I learned a lot from your video that I will try next time, like hand-sanding (between my husband and I we have refinished it at least 3times...)and using 800 grit for the final sand...thank you!
@@colleenmccarthy-evans3149 nice work! Haha I hope the baby seat wasn’t too difficult, I imagine some screws holes to be plugged possibly? Sometimes you leave big problems for your future self in furniture restoration haha 😂. Hand sanding is better than power tools in certain situations, if the table is flat a sanding block will make it even quicker. A nice set of grits to get is 80, 120, 240, and 800 for a final polish if your using oils. With varnish you don’t have to sand as high. Thank you for sharing your progress 👍🙂 happy to give any tips if you need it 😺
@@colleenmccarthy-evans3149 nice work! Haha I hope the baby seat wasn’t too difficult, I imagine some screws holes to be plugged possibly? Sometimes you leave big problems for your future self in furniture restoration haha 😂. Hand sanding is better than power tools in certain situations, if the table is flat a sanding block will make it even quicker. A nice set of grits to get is 80, 120, 240, and 800 for a final polish if your using oils. With varnish you don’t have to sand as high. Thank you for sharing your progress 👍🙂 happy to give any tips if you need it 😺
@@ejwoodhouserestorations2796 Thank you so much for the tips! 🙏🏼😊 And just so you are not too horrified, the baby seat stayed in place with some rubber coated 'arms' above and below...nothing screwed in...that being said, I would never do that again....the grandkids will have other 'arrangements' haha 😁
Hey there! I used evolution hardwax oil. I’m not sure if they sell it internationally but any hardwax oil will do. I found it was better to apply lots of thin coats over the course of a week rather than one large one 👍
We had a similar teak Mid Century extension dining table, Mum bought in 1969. Dinner for us 9...no problem. My brother still has it. I'm inspired to re furb my solid teak coffee table bought in '96. It has a double sided draw and lower shelf but seems the joints are loosening, no nails or fixings, just glue I think. Need some courage..and long clamps to re glue without dismantling it. Any tips you can offer would be gratefully received. Cheers for your vlogs.
It’s amazing how much use you can get out of one table, the extension part is so handy. I’m glad to hear your table is still around. For a re-glue you will want to make sure that there isn’t too much dried glue over the joint. PVA glue doesn’t stick that well over old glue, so you might have to get in there with a thin blade and do some light scraping. If it looks good you can go right ahead and re-glue it, make sure to saturate the entire joint, even to the point of the joint overflowing with glue. I use a scalpel to help spread glue around in tight cracks. Then put the clamps on for a day, try to resist the urge to take them off prematurely. Then always clean the excess glue with some water and paper towels and it should be good as new 👍🙂
Beautiful table and the table extension feature was a first see for me. Do you think that oil finish will offer enough protection for a table top? Perhaps if the table is only used for special occasions rather than everyday use?
Yea you don’t see many of these around anymore, it’s a really great design. I’ve tested hardwax oil for water resistance before, it’s actually pretty decent. It forms a thin layer that causes the water to sit on the surface. I still would avoid getting water or anything hot on it. I also added a layer of wax to the table off camera that will add more protection. Makes it look nicer too 👍🙂
This is useful as I have some teak veneer furniture I need to restore and have never done it before. Question: Is the hard wax oil enough to ‘finish’ it? Will it be resistant to spills like that? Or is there anything else I need to do to make it more durable? I would never leave water on it but in my side tables current state, the sight of water and they stain. Hence the need to restore. Also, 70 years of wear 🤷🏼♀️
A very good question. The hardwax oil will definitely protect it from short spills but it lacks the minimal scratch protection that you get from varnish. Varnish is more durable and is basically unaffected by water, however once it’s damaged it’s harder to fix. Both are fine, you can also put carnauba wax on top of the oil for further protection. Use oxalic acid on water stains.
@@ejwoodhouserestorations2796 Thanks for that. I planned to chemical strip, very light sand and then finish. Where would the oxalis acid fit in? Is it for patches or an all over use? The damage is a range or dark rings and light spots of water damage.
@@Hollyferris sounds like a good plan of action. After the stripping and sanding I’d apply it all over. As spot treating with the acid can make one spot lighter than the surrounding wood. Try to keep the acid moist as it’s not as effective when it dries. Also don’t breath in the dried crystals as it’s hazardous, clean up with bicarbonate soda and wash everything down.
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
Incredibly beautiful table. Great to see it cared for in this way!
It was hard to give this one back, the owner has had it for many years 👍🙂
What a gorgeous colour that wood is, and of course I love seeing your cat, and listening to the magpies
It was hard to give this one back, I spent so much time admiring the grain patterns while I had it haha. Hans will be pleased to hear 😉 plenty more cat action to come. I will try to get some footage of the Magpies in the next video, they hang out in the back tree at lunchtime. 👍🙂
I have just discovered your channel a day ago...i like the fact that there are no blabbing and annoying music playing in the background. Maybe a little bit of explaining here and there will help a bit. But over all great video content...👌👍
Cheers buddy, I will keep the videos coming. I never was a fan of music overtaking the sounds of woodworking either. I always appreciate your watch and comment! 😺🙂
Quel tavolo è tornato come nuovo, bravo, ottimo lavoro 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks again buddy 👍🙂 yes the grain of the wood was stunning by the end, took me by surprise. Definitely need to get some more Teak furniture, such a beautiful wood 👍👍😺
Gorgeous table!❤️👍🏻
Thank you MeMe! 👍😺
Wow that's a great finish.
The old oil and wax combination really gives a nice Matt finish. It’s easy to repair scratches as well. Thanks again Don! 👍🙂
What a stunning result! It's rather empowering to see the improvement that can be made without power tools, maybe I'll get a couple of projects off the to-do list that had be on hold until I became proficient with electric sanders and the like
I would definitely recommend getting a hang of hand sanding before moving onto power tools. Electric sanding is fantastic but sometimes a simple sanding block going with the grain is all you need. If your hand sanding get your self some 80, 120, 240 grit paper, and a sanding block. Then you will be flying 👍👍🙂
gorgeous!
Thank you Colleen! 😀👍
@@ejwoodhouserestorations2796 I recently refinished our MCM teak dining table, too, that we've had for 35 years...even had our babies latched to it in one of those baby seats that slide on the table...(haha, what a mess that was and what were we thinking?? 😊)...I learned a lot from your video that I will try next time, like hand-sanding (between my husband and I we have refinished it at least 3times...)and using 800 grit for the final sand...thank you!
@@colleenmccarthy-evans3149 nice work! Haha I hope the baby seat wasn’t too difficult, I imagine some screws holes to be plugged possibly? Sometimes you leave big problems for your future self in furniture restoration haha 😂. Hand sanding is better than power tools in certain situations, if the table is flat a sanding block will make it even quicker. A nice set of grits to get is 80, 120, 240, and 800 for a final polish if your using oils. With varnish you don’t have to sand as high. Thank you for sharing your progress 👍🙂 happy to give any tips if you need it 😺
@@colleenmccarthy-evans3149 nice work! Haha I hope the baby seat wasn’t too difficult, I imagine some screws holes to be plugged possibly? Sometimes you leave big problems for your future self in furniture restoration haha 😂. Hand sanding is better than power tools in certain situations, if the table is flat a sanding block will make it even quicker. A nice set of grits to get is 80, 120, 240, and 800 for a final polish if your using oils. With varnish you don’t have to sand as high. Thank you for sharing your progress 👍🙂 happy to give any tips if you need it 😺
@@ejwoodhouserestorations2796 Thank you so much for the tips! 🙏🏼😊 And just so you are not too horrified, the baby seat stayed in place with some rubber coated 'arms' above and below...nothing screwed in...that being said, I would never do that again....the grandkids will have other 'arrangements' haha 😁
Just found your video. We have a teak piece we need to refinish. Could you provide more info on the brand of Hardwood Oil you use on this piece? TY!
Hey there! I used evolution hardwax oil. I’m not sure if they sell it internationally but any hardwax oil will do. I found it was better to apply lots of thin coats over the course of a week rather than one large one 👍
We had a similar teak Mid Century extension dining table, Mum bought in 1969. Dinner for us 9...no problem. My brother still has it.
I'm inspired to re furb my solid teak coffee table bought in '96. It has a double sided draw and lower shelf but seems the joints are loosening, no nails or fixings, just glue I think. Need some courage..and long clamps to re glue without dismantling it. Any tips you can offer would be gratefully received. Cheers for your vlogs.
It’s amazing how much use you can get out of one table, the extension part is so handy. I’m glad to hear your table is still around.
For a re-glue you will want to make sure that there isn’t too much dried glue over the joint. PVA glue doesn’t stick that well over old glue, so you might have to get in there with a thin blade and do some light scraping.
If it looks good you can go right ahead and re-glue it, make sure to saturate the entire joint, even to the point of the joint overflowing with glue. I use a scalpel to help spread glue around in tight cracks. Then put the clamps on for a day, try to resist the urge to take them off prematurely.
Then always clean the excess glue with some water and paper towels and it should be good as new 👍🙂
Thanks, now I'm 50% more confident. 😉
Beautiful table and the table extension feature was a first see for me. Do you think that oil finish will offer enough protection for a table top? Perhaps if the table is only used for special occasions rather than everyday use?
Yea you don’t see many of these around anymore, it’s a really great design. I’ve tested hardwax oil for water resistance before, it’s actually pretty decent. It forms a thin layer that causes the water to sit on the surface. I still would avoid getting water or anything hot on it. I also added a layer of wax to the table off camera that will add more protection. Makes it look nicer too 👍🙂
This is useful as I have some teak veneer furniture I need to restore and have never done it before. Question: Is the hard wax oil enough to ‘finish’ it? Will it be resistant to spills like that? Or is there anything else I need to do to make it more durable? I would never leave water on it but in my side tables current state, the sight of water and they stain. Hence the need to restore. Also, 70 years of wear 🤷🏼♀️
A very good question. The hardwax oil will definitely protect it from short spills but it lacks the minimal scratch protection that you get from varnish. Varnish is more durable and is basically unaffected by water, however once it’s damaged it’s harder to fix. Both are fine, you can also put carnauba wax on top of the oil for further protection. Use oxalic acid on water stains.
@@ejwoodhouserestorations2796 Thanks for that. I planned to chemical strip, very light sand and then finish. Where would the oxalis acid fit in? Is it for patches or an all over use? The damage is a range or dark rings and light spots of water damage.
@@Hollyferris sounds like a good plan of action. After the stripping and sanding I’d apply it all over. As spot treating with the acid can make one spot lighter than the surrounding wood. Try to keep the acid moist as it’s not as effective when it dries. Also don’t breath in the dried crystals as it’s hazardous, clean up with bicarbonate soda and wash everything down.