Thank you for showing the stitched veneer! On my project, I didn't realize that I was working on veneer, and then saw the zigzag pattern lightly showing through for about a 1-inch by 1/2-inch patch. Your video finally helped me identify the zigzag pattern as the veneer glue. The solid edging, and mismatch pattern between top and underside were the other clues I missed. Really appreciate your demo!
Watched your videos and restored an Ercol sideboard, plate rack, coffee table and dining table that belonged to my parents, they are as beautiful as the day they left the shop in 1958, just have 6 dining chairs to do but I’ll wait until Spring!
Thats great news. I'm gad it worked well for you. I know there are many ways to refinish furniture but the hardwax oil finish I demonstrate with a wax polish to finish gives a lovely natural looking, easy to apply practical finish. Have a rest and wait for the warmer weather. 😉
I'm glad that you emphasised there's nothing wrong with veneer. That advert always iritates me as the intimation is that veneer is sub standard. Certainly some of the particle board stuff is awful, but ply is a great product. There's a time and place for an orbital sander, but people reach for them too soon and too often. Graded sheets of paper and a cork block would sand down the top of that small table in less than 5 minutes. I really enjoy your videos, can we have another on using pigments to match grain and colour please. ( In your own good time obviously! )
I just bought two Plantation Timbers Teak folding armchairs. Some of the wood is just unfinished (due to age) and some of it has finish on it. It is pretty intricate in terms of the number of members and I think it would be very difficult to scrape every surface. Any suggestions about how to go about this? Dip? I don't want to ruin the raw wood, either.
Loved the video, think you should consider ear protection, I have Ekornes Ulferts furniture and it is Rosewood veered chipboard, no solid wood anywhere considering the price I should have paid as they were shop floor demo they looked like real wood. I have a side table that I made at school over 45 years ago and it is our oldest piece of furniture made of solid oak and plywood. I will strip it down and put a nice wax oil finish instead of the Ronseal varnish I used. I wish my careers advisor had advised me to look at French Polishing.
I recently acquired a Brazilian (Gritsch) teak office credenza that's structurally sound overall but has some deep gouges in the top surface. It's clearly a veneered piece but I'm wondering if perhaps the top is solid? In any case, the gouges/scratches would need to be filled and then carefully hand-sanded down - correct? Or does one re-veneer in this case? Thanks for posting your video - I was wondering about exactly the problem you described/demonstrated.
Hi Karl. Be careful filling and sanding, but this is definitely the best course of action. re-veneering is not really a viable option. In most cases they are veneered on chipboard Take a look at my videos on teak furniture... (G-Plan Nathan etc..) Cheers Simon
Hi. Thanks for sharing this. I have recently purchased a nest of three tables, they look like solid wood. They are G Plan. On the underside of the table, I can't see a different looking wood. The edge of the tables are bullnosed edge. Are there any other tell tale sign's that these tables could have a veneer top? I am new to upcyling furniture! Thanks, Nicky
Hi Nicky. I would be very surprised if they are solid. I've never seen a set of solid wood G-Plan tables. I would assume that they are veneered rather than thinking they are solid. The legs will be solid teak. If the top was solid, given the slim nature of the tops, you would see very similar grain pattern on the top that mirrors on the underside. I hope this helps and good luck. Simon
Ahhhh yes! I had no idea that the table I inherited was veneer and I sanded it (ugh) I have a few spots where the chip board is coming through-but I’m ok with it as it’s on the edges… but now what? I wanted to lighten it or change the color from the reddish tones to a warmer brown or even lighten it. Have any suggestions?? I’m such a novice - but love my extendable mid-century teak table - can I restore it somehow ??
We picked up a G-plan piece a second hand shop in England a few years ago. It had been painted with three different coats of different colored paint. Didn't know what type of furniture it was and wish we'd seen this video before attempting to refinish! Chemical stripped and sanded, but sanded through the veneer in one spot on the top. What would be a next best step to try and disguise the chipboard beneath? Iron-on patch?
Hi Alyssa. I think you would be better of trying to disguise it by using artists colours and trying your best to imitate the grain. You can then overcoat all of it and wax polish the entire piece. An iron patch will not work very on a horizontal surface. Good luck. :-) Simon
Don't sand by hand as advised here. Don't sand at all. You'll permanently damage the look of the veneer. It'll look red and gray and blotchy. It's .6mm thick and full of glue. Strip with dychloromethane if you can get it using proper mask and filters, then stain and apply finish.
Mel. Dichloromethane was banned for domestic use in 2008. The veneer will sand perfectly well and there is no need to stain it. Only if you want to change the colour or enhance the teak. Take a look at my videos where you see me demonstrating this process. 😀 Kind regards Simon
@@GilboysRestoration Hi Simon, the problem is sanding veneers permanently damages them. That's the issue. 90% of mid century sideboards and tables have been damaged by sanding, whether by hand or sander. They can never be made beautiful again even by a good restorer. Will always be gray redish blotchy. Utube video telling people to sand veneers are to blame. Strip with best stripper you can get. DON'T sand veneers!
If you do not know how to properly use a sander, choose the right grit and type of media, and even more importantly, which type of sander to use on veneer, then yes, you will destroy the restoration.
The legs and frame aren't solid teak - it's solid pericopsis elata (I think) - colloqiually known as afrormosia. G Plan rare used actual teak. Much like plenty of other British designs from the period. Rarely was actual teak used.
Solid teak, I should say, because the majority of the veneer they use is actual teak. I think in some designs like the Fresco credenza they were supposed to be a contrast from one another. Only now they're so old, have they aged the same colour.
@@GilboysRestoration It looks like teak... In the sense 'teak' has become a colloquial term for any exotic hardwood. Iroko is often called teak, in G Plan designs I regularly see Sapele called teak, too. Just two of the top of my head. We can't send a lump of to Kew every time we need to know for sure, but I thought it was worth being anal about when the difference is visible.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for showing the stitched veneer! On my project, I didn't realize that I was working on veneer, and then saw the zigzag pattern lightly showing through for about a 1-inch by 1/2-inch patch. Your video finally helped me identify the zigzag pattern as the veneer glue. The solid edging, and mismatch pattern between top and underside were the other clues I missed. Really appreciate your demo!
That really is god news. It's why I sacrificed this table so it could help others. ✅
I loved your comment about "all dust for the theatre", subscribed!
Way to break it down! Thank you for "peeling" back the layers to explain.
Watched your videos and restored an Ercol sideboard, plate rack, coffee table and dining table that belonged to my parents, they are as beautiful as the day they left the shop in 1958, just have 6 dining chairs to do but I’ll wait until Spring!
Thats great news. I'm gad it worked well for you. I know there are many ways to refinish furniture but the hardwax oil finish I demonstrate with a wax polish to finish gives a lovely natural looking, easy to apply practical finish. Have a rest and wait for the warmer weather. 😉
I'm glad that you emphasised there's nothing wrong with veneer. That advert always iritates me as the intimation is that veneer is sub standard. Certainly some of the particle board stuff is awful, but ply is a great product. There's a time and place for an orbital sander, but people reach for them too soon and too often. Graded sheets of paper and a cork block would sand down the top of that small table in less than 5 minutes. I really enjoy your videos, can we have another on using pigments to match grain and colour please. ( In your own good time obviously! )
Hi Stephen.
I certainly will do one soon. I really enjoy using pigments to grain and colour.
Simon 🙂
Nice one Simon, another great video :)
Thank you. I realise that mid century furniture is becoming more and more popular. 🙂
That was very useful. Thanks
Super helpful thank you
You're welcome.
How do you fix lifted veneer on a Skovby table where the leaf goes in? Thanks!
I just bought two Plantation Timbers Teak folding armchairs. Some of the wood is just unfinished (due to age) and some of it has finish on it.
It is pretty intricate in terms of the number of members and I think it would be very difficult to scrape every surface. Any suggestions about how to go about this? Dip?
I don't want to ruin the raw wood, either.
On a Gilboy's TY marathon - Simon I think I may have 'Veneereal Disease'. PS the product shots on your website are stunning!
😂 Thanks Frank. That's kind of you to say. We photographed them all of them ourselves.
Loved the video, think you should consider ear protection, I have Ekornes Ulferts furniture and it is Rosewood veered chipboard, no solid wood anywhere considering the price I should have paid as they were shop floor demo they looked like real wood. I have a side table that I made at school over 45 years ago and it is our oldest piece of furniture made of solid oak and plywood. I will strip it down and put a nice wax oil finish instead of the Ronseal varnish I used. I wish my careers advisor had advised me to look at French Polishing.
I recently acquired a Brazilian (Gritsch) teak office credenza that's structurally sound overall but has some deep gouges in the top surface. It's clearly a veneered piece but I'm wondering if perhaps the top is solid? In any case, the gouges/scratches would need to be filled and then carefully hand-sanded down - correct? Or does one re-veneer in this case?
Thanks for posting your video - I was wondering about exactly the problem you described/demonstrated.
Hi Karl. Be careful filling and sanding, but this is definitely the best course of action. re-veneering is not really a viable option. In most cases they are veneered on chipboard
Take a look at my videos on teak furniture... (G-Plan Nathan etc..)
Cheers Simon
@@GilboysRestoration Will do. Thanks again!
Hi. Thanks for sharing this. I have recently purchased a nest of three tables, they look like solid wood. They are G Plan. On the underside of the table, I can't see a different looking wood. The edge of the tables are bullnosed edge. Are there any other tell tale sign's that these tables could have a veneer top? I am new to upcyling furniture! Thanks, Nicky
Hi Nicky.
I would be very surprised if they are solid. I've never seen a set of solid wood G-Plan tables. I would assume that they are veneered rather than thinking they are solid. The legs will be solid teak. If the top was solid, given the slim nature of the tops, you would see very similar grain pattern on the top that mirrors on the underside.
I hope this helps and good luck.
Simon
Ahhhh yes! I had no idea that the table I inherited was veneer and I sanded it (ugh) I have a few spots where the chip board is coming through-but I’m ok with it as it’s on the edges… but now what?
I wanted to lighten it or change the color from the reddish tones to a warmer brown or even lighten it.
Have any suggestions?? I’m such a novice - but love my extendable mid-century teak table - can I restore it somehow ??
Hi Franklin. This may help you. It is part one of two.(I'm editing part 2 now) ruclips.net/video/Ffkng0Q2XUk/видео.html
I love mid century style! I just uploaded a new video where I Refinish o cool retro coffee table!!
Discovered this years ago sanding a chest of drawers my mother gave me that she had when she married in the 50s
A lesson learned. Never assume anything is solid wood. 🙂
We picked up a G-plan piece a second hand shop in England a few years ago. It had been painted with three different coats of different colored paint. Didn't know what type of furniture it was and wish we'd seen this video before attempting to refinish! Chemical stripped and sanded, but sanded through the veneer in one spot on the top. What would be a next best step to try and disguise the chipboard beneath? Iron-on patch?
Hi Alyssa. I think you would be better of trying to disguise it by using artists colours and trying your best to imitate the grain. You can then overcoat all of it and wax polish the entire piece. An iron patch will not work very on a horizontal surface.
Good luck. :-)
Simon
@@GilboysRestoration What should you 'overcoat' it with?
That was a bit hard to watch... but it's a hard to fix
Don't sand by hand as advised here. Don't sand at all. You'll permanently damage the look of the veneer. It'll look red and gray and blotchy. It's .6mm thick and full of glue. Strip with dychloromethane if you can get it using proper mask and filters, then stain and apply finish.
Mel. Dichloromethane was banned for domestic use in 2008. The veneer will sand perfectly well and there is no need to stain it. Only if you want to change the colour or enhance the teak. Take a look at my videos where you see me demonstrating this process. 😀
Kind regards
Simon
@@GilboysRestoration Hi Simon, the problem is sanding veneers permanently damages them. That's the issue. 90% of mid century sideboards and tables have been damaged by sanding, whether by hand or sander. They can never be made beautiful again even by a good restorer. Will always be gray redish blotchy. Utube video telling people to sand veneers are to blame. Strip with best stripper you can get. DON'T sand veneers!
If you do not know how to properly use a sander, choose the right grit and type of media, and even more importantly, which type of sander to use on veneer, then yes, you will destroy the restoration.
The legs and frame aren't solid teak - it's solid pericopsis elata (I think) - colloqiually known as afrormosia. G Plan rare used actual teak. Much like plenty of other British designs from the period. Rarely was actual teak used.
Solid teak, I should say, because the majority of the veneer they use is actual teak. I think in some designs like the Fresco credenza they were supposed to be a contrast from one another. Only now they're so old, have they aged the same colour.
It looks, sands and smells like solid teak to me. 🙂
@@GilboysRestoration It looks like teak... In the sense 'teak' has become a colloquial term for any exotic hardwood. Iroko is often called teak, in G Plan designs I regularly see Sapele called teak, too. Just two of the top of my head. We can't send a lump of to Kew every time we need to know for sure, but I thought it was worth being anal about when the difference is visible.
Use an electric planer? lol
😂
Lol all I think is Daddy! Yum