That was the long ride on the struggle bus but you got it done. Good Job. It's funny how we sometimes know what the easiest way to do something but we get an idea of how to do something and stay with it until you find you've spend so much time going down that road you have keep going. So it's ride the struggle bus to either success or dead end.......LOL
Yup, I was determined it was coming out. Funny thing is the service manual tells you to pull it like this. It would have bern fine if the pump splines were not seized. Thanks for the comment!
Got pretty excited seeing this video come up.. I can't wait for or can't ask you enough to do a detailed video on the tandem pump. Still watching all these videos you make man..
@@MikefromMissouri Maybe some pressure tests and how to test/what to look for when it's apart. Where we should be getting what pressures and just an overall understanding of it.. Different hose sizes for different applications/pressures. Kind of like a one stop guide for the pump. It'd be nice to have as much info on the pump so we don't need another video and everything will be gone through in your fashion of high standards and thorough detail/teachings. I recently took the rear steel cover off the back of the tandem to just a big rubber seated gasket. Right behind my rubber gasket was a standard ball bearing with one or two burrs that didn't make sense how they got there. That's as far as I went to fix my leak, need to replace the bearing that should've been swapped but I gotta dig right now with it..
Hey Mike, that motor i hear is a heavy Beast lol. Good job being persistent. A question why pull the motor? Did it have "high" hours? I thought it ran..
Hello, Yes the 4b is a heavy beast at around 900 lbs. It did run fine but my plans for this machine is a complete restoration. I’m striping the frame bare so it can be sandblasted and painted. Then I will slowly put everything back repairing parts as they go back on. I’ve not decided what I’m going to do with the motor yet. I can see it’s had some gaskets replaced but I really don’t know it’s true condition. I have a hard time not tearing into things to make sure it’s good.
I have the same problems In my head. I personally am limited by a lack of certain tools and money. 10,000 hours on a well "maintained" is not uncommon for a 2B cummins. Its bottom end is bulletproof. I personally on a budget would maybe valve cover gaskets, check oil pan gasket, maybe new alternator "Definitely" a starter "trust me" skip on buying a new temperature sensor on motor if good. Dealership only 185.00 through new holland. Paint manifolds and engine fix any wiring and bang you're ready to rock. Save the money for possible bad hoses. The machine wants to work... They are Work Horses 🐎 I use one on a small farm. I love it. I wish I had 5 more attachments for it. Great Videos
They are almost IMPOSSIBLE to change if dump is down and it won't start..in a field full of mud. Also, the brake pins.... Something to ponder.. They ALWAYS leak, fail, lock up in the winter due to moisture, rust, grease locks up, "They fill your gear cases with water" (Travllerss at Central tractor trans/Hydrostatic fluid tends to help on moisture issues it is 10-30) cables snap at full speed sending spring loaded solid steel pins in to your sprocket...snaping housing inside gear gas and outside. All that unless they are not there. It was a flaw... I welded caps, removed pistons, and cut out pulleys to make it look cleaner. Problems solved Rambling lol
Ive heard many people say similar about the brake pins. It was one of the few weak points on these machines. I’m a bit of a sucker for original so probably won’t disable them but I completely understand your logic. Keep watching my friend.
Years ago I worked at a case dealership, never saw a blown engine, those case Cummings engines, were bullet proof.
That was the long ride on the struggle bus but you got it done. Good Job. It's funny how we sometimes know what the easiest way to do something but we get an idea of how to do something and stay with it until you find you've spend so much time going down that road you have keep going. So it's ride the struggle bus to either success or dead end.......LOL
Yup, I was determined it was coming out. Funny thing is the service manual tells you to pull it like this. It would have bern fine if the pump splines were not seized. Thanks for the comment!
Got pretty excited seeing this video come up.. I can't wait for or can't ask you enough to do a detailed video on the tandem pump. Still watching all these videos you make man..
Thanks, are you looking for a pump tear down video? Not sure how deep I’m going into that just yet
@@MikefromMissouri Maybe some pressure tests and how to test/what to look for when it's apart. Where we should be getting what pressures and just an overall understanding of it.. Different hose sizes for different applications/pressures. Kind of like a one stop guide for the pump. It'd be nice to have as much info on the pump so we don't need another video and everything will be gone through in your fashion of high standards and thorough detail/teachings. I recently took the rear steel cover off the back of the tandem to just a big rubber seated gasket. Right behind my rubber gasket was a standard ball bearing with one or two burrs that didn't make sense how they got there. That's as far as I went to fix my leak, need to replace the bearing that should've been swapped but I gotta dig right now with it..
About time you got that engine out!
I know!
Do you need a separate ladder to get your ladder down off the wall??😂😂
LOL yes! Best place to get that big thing out of the way. Thanks for the laugh.
A struggle indeed, but well done.
Thanks!
Hey Mike, that motor i hear is a heavy Beast lol. Good job being persistent.
A question why pull the motor? Did it have "high" hours?
I thought it ran..
Hello, Yes the 4b is a heavy beast at around 900 lbs. It did run fine but my plans for this machine is a complete restoration. I’m striping the frame bare so it can be sandblasted and painted. Then I will slowly put everything back repairing parts as they go back on. I’ve not decided what I’m going to do with the motor yet. I can see it’s had some gaskets replaced but I really don’t know it’s true condition. I have a hard time not tearing into things to make sure it’s good.
I have the same problems
In my head. I personally am limited by a lack of certain tools and money.
10,000 hours on a well "maintained" is not uncommon for a 2B cummins. Its bottom end is bulletproof.
I personally on a budget would maybe valve cover gaskets, check oil pan gasket, maybe new alternator "Definitely" a starter "trust me" skip on buying a new temperature sensor on motor if good. Dealership only 185.00 through new holland. Paint manifolds and engine fix any wiring and bang you're ready to rock.
Save the money for possible bad hoses.
The machine wants to work...
They are Work Horses 🐎 I use one on a small farm. I love it. I wish I had 5 more attachments for it.
Great Videos
Well that explains why the starter is new LOL.
They are almost IMPOSSIBLE to change if dump is down and it won't start..in a field full of mud.
Also, the brake pins....
Something to ponder..
They ALWAYS leak, fail, lock up in the winter due to moisture, rust, grease locks up, "They fill your gear cases with water" (Travllerss at Central tractor trans/Hydrostatic fluid tends to help on moisture issues it is 10-30) cables snap at full speed sending spring loaded solid steel pins in to your sprocket...snaping housing inside gear gas and outside. All that unless they are not there. It was a flaw...
I welded caps, removed pistons, and cut out pulleys to make it look cleaner.
Problems solved
Rambling lol
Ive heard many people say similar about the brake pins. It was one of the few weak points on these machines. I’m a bit of a sucker for original so probably won’t disable them but I completely understand your logic. Keep watching my friend.
Do you always do mechanic work in a polo? 😂
Only on Sundays
I've never seen a 4B before. I've seen a 6B, but not this.
Basically the same as the 6B with two cylinders removed. A lot of the parts will swap between the two.