The second you said “everybody was saying you shouldn’t use a fram oil filter, so I went out and bought another fram filter” I instantly subscribed. I loved that.
When bleeding the injectors bleed one at a time and bleed it till there is almost no bubbles coming out of each line, also make sure the water separator is drained and fresh fuel is ran through it
Man its refreshing hearing people say they dont know what they're doing. I love car videos like this but every channel be so in tuned and in depth it somewhat discourage people because we feel like we 10-15 years too late to be in this field
Hopefully you can get it started by getting it to crank faster. If you put 24v to the starter and manually hold the fuel shut down up it might. Don’t hook up the truck to 24v or your cause damage but 24v Case equipment with the 5.9 I’ve been around spin over so fast I bet even with fairly low compression like this it might start.
I’ve been a mechanic since high school after more than 20 years I still say on a daily basis that this would be so much easier if only I knew what I was doing!! People laugh but I’m fairly serious.
Do a compression test and try lighting it off with ether also search the part number on the head gasket you used to see what it's compressed thickness is compared to factory. To me it seems like compression or fuel.
I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm doing it! That's the way I grew up no one really influenced me but now I'm self taughtin many thing from mechanics to electronics to quite a few other subjects. Truthfully still learning!
This would be how I think I would try to diagnose the issue; 1. Be suspect of the fuel system. Check to make sure it has fuel and that there is no water in it. Another thing is to crack the inlet into the injection pump to see if there is adequate fuel flow and pressure making it into the p pump. 2. New rebuilds are going to have lower compression until you get some heat in them to seat the rings so it very well may take a little ether for it to kick over fast enough. 3. Double check that the shut off solenoid is properly adjusted and functioning. Only other thing is the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the pump toward the front of the head. As long as everything is assembled correctly then it may just be a little stubborn and need that initial hit. Hope you figure it out.
lol, I had an engineer buddy who used to draw up plans for all his projects, and his projects always were near perfect.... dude would have got so much more done if spent less time planning and more time actually doing, I aim for 10% planning based on what I think a project will take, so if I think 3 hours, I spend 20 minutes, and usually the project takes 3X my estimate anyway...lol.
I do lots of small engine repair as a hobby. I usually order full service kits along with whatever actually needs replacing. Once I get it in the mail it gets fixed, that's all the planning I do; not letting shit accumulate.
@@MadTuning01 he spent 3 years doing his hardwood floor... there is a such thing as "too much planning", but the notebooks on his cuts and such were meticulous. I did appreciate the beauty of his work... it was not lost on me, but he could have made the same quality without so much pen and paper for every step.
Could be air. Are you running the grid heater and does it work? Might want to go to harbor freight and get the diesel compression tester before tearing it back down. Do the oil trick with that
Just finished binge watching your Cummings tow truck videos the algorithm recommended to me. Glad to catch another one. This series deserves its own playlist to keep up with. Your channel growth the past couple months has been great to see and the videos keep getting better.
I love the way this video was edited made it very entertaining the whole way through. As a cummins owner who also has no idea what im doing this was an awesome video. Definitely subscribing and hope to see more content like this
@@jamesbasye2362 Maybe his Diesel is old or water is in it. If this is a Diesel, why are there bubbles in the Diesel thats coming out of the lines? The Compression might be low, but it should still start. A VW i once had, should have had 13 Bar Compression but it only had almost 6. It still ran but it was reaaaaly not happy. This thing should start.
@@CavemanJay-wv1pe or just flammable brake clean, ether is overkill, little bit of flammable brake clean down the intake and if it can start and doesnt stay running its a fuel delivery problem
crank the truck from starter motor and at the same time tighten each injector off as diesel comes through, do that to each injector one by one. Head gasket shouldn't be an issue. Petrols dont mind low compression they just smoke, diesels wont start unless excellent compression
To be honest that bearing looks pretty good in terms of wear. Definitely not reusable, but looks like a natural wear pattern, which means the crank is healthy.
it didnt look like it was spraying fuel when you re-cracked the lines... not sure if i just missed it or not. right behind and under the injection pump, you should see a little hand primer. you can pump the primer till it gets stiff, and should ensure that you are getting fuel to the pump and the injectors. does the grid heater work? is the truck pushing smoke at all when you were cranking it? also, make sure that the fuel shutoff solenoid isnt acting up. ive had them fail and completely disable trucks. the fuel shutoff solenoid will be mounted on the top side of the injection pump, and have 3 wires coming out of it. if its not pulling the arm up on its own with the key on, you can remove it (2 8mm bolts and a hairpin clip on the shutoff valve arm), and tie the arm for the shutoff valve up with a zip tie or a piece of wire. seems like a fuel issue... these older trucks will run in absolutely terrible conditions. i doubt its the pistons or the head gasket. im betting its a fuel issue. what ive done on older mechanical injection diesels, is crack the lines loose, and just use the primer till i see fuel at the injectors. i cant recall if the p7100 pump will flow fuel through without the pump spinning, but id still give it a shot. also, RIP starter hahaha! good luck Colin. i know she'll fire.
Ya I have a Ford 5.4 3 valve I bought all the parts for and did a complete rebuild. I had never totally rebuilt a V8 by myself. I got it together and it's still running strong 3 years later. Sometimes you just have to get it done.
With the head off. You can check cyl piston ring seal by pouring diesel fuel into the piston in the cyl. If it holds, engine will run like new. If it leaks out but takes a day it’ll run great but burn oil. If the diesel leaks in 2-4hr it’ll start but not ideal. Holds for 1hr or less then it might start but will smoke and shake. Pro tip from the Land Rover diesel guys. Wouldn’t it have been great to know how it seals before even putting the head on??
Bro if you used a thinner head gasket, didn't forget to perform a valve adjustment! A thinner head gasket or even surfacing the head effectively lengthens the pushrod length, and if it's far enough can hang valves open and leak compression.
Remove spark plugs and test compression using the compression tester on all cylinders that way. If all cylinders lack compression it’s your head gasket. Shouldn’t be the cylinders.
I gotta admit I thought this was a joke at first when i clicked on it to watch. But after hearing your beginning opening lines, I'll give you credit for trying it no matter if it fails or not(probability is quite high it wont last)! Too many people don't do anything at all cause of fear of it failing but thats your drive so kudos to you for that. I hope this works but honestly I doubt it will without precise measurements to know how worn the cylinders are plus all that rust from sitting wide open is not great to say the least. Might wanna run a hone through them holes first to clean them up. Plus missing\damaged rings are no bueno big time! Good luck though!👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔩🛢️😬😆 ✊🏻🇺🇲🦅🇺🇲✊🏻
Man when you were about to wire brush the head I was like "NO! NOOO. PLEASE!" That's probably what did it. Always use brake clean and high grit sand paper. Those wire brushes create uneven slices in the surface and the head gasket won't seal right.
My first engine rebuild was on the ground and my engine hoist was a piece of old door frame cut just long enough to fit between the fenders with some rope holding the engine up. I lifted the whole car up on bricks and old brake discs and dropped the engine out the bottom. Once i was done i pulled it back up with a ratchet strap. And that engine handled 18psi of boost after that for years like no problem, was the best shitbox ever before a guy decided to pull out in front of me and totaled it.
Any piston work should involve making sure the rings are soaked in oil. And cyl walls are covered with a film of oil. Oil the cyl walls. Rotate engine. Clean walls. And re lube.
Hmm lots of good comments below about what it could be. Starting fluid could be an interesting option. Obviously theres fuel getting to those lines so i dont think its fuel related unless the injectors are clogged/being gay?
Double check your timing. When I did my head gasket and some pump work my truck did the exact same thing. It would start with a little starter fluid but would make a lot of white smoke… the Timing gear had slipped on the pump. Changed it and it started right up
You need a helper to bleed injectors 1 at a time. You seal all of them tight and unscrew ome whole someone cranks it. You tighten each injector while its spraying. I used to have to do this everytime I started my diesel. Its a sign of leaking injector lines.
If your rockers are a bit loose, thats ok, the lifters have bled down due to not running so long. After you get it started, they should pump up and be ok. Id try hitting it with a bit of cosby sauce(ether) it should start then. Once it runs a bit and warms up, it should start ok
Fkkkiinnggg FACTS about overthinking a project…. I just completed a small one that turned out to be totally fine… despite my brain wanting to put it off for a few days. Hella annoying.
I put cheap rods in my diesel and 2.5yr later the rod bent, broke the #1cyl off the engine block. Threw the alternator into the radiator. … Then I had to rebuild the whole thing. If I could go back ida kept the stock pistons a rods and just re ringed them. But the second time around I did a bunch of fun mods But my current engine with 42,000 was built with the same rings from the motor that broke a rod. Engines are fun. Stock is best. I started mechanic work on making diesel vw fast. And now I make them purposefully slower. The slower your vehicle is … the longer it lasts. My engines capable of 160hp 300tq And it’s tuned to maybe 75hp and 130tq. The truth is if you wasted a piston it’s 99% chance the nozzle is spitting. I’ll cheap out on a lot but if you like your diesel… You’ll get professionally done injectors. Want it even more bullet proof … Open the piston bowls up. I opened mine by just using a large socket. And cutting it into a cutter with a grinder. Easy to self machine aluminum pistons. Worth it. Never reuse rod bearings. They’re so cheap. Loved your video.
Anything like atomized I burned fuel out the tailpipe? If non of that or black exhaust, then there’s no/not enough fuel getting to the injectors. I used to use a hand pump pulling directly from the tank to the engine driven fuel pump or to the filter just prior to the engine driven fuel pump (Detroit Diesel series 60). If you don’t have a hand pump to prime the system, make sure filters are full of fuel, batteries are charged and get the either out…
What up Colin I been binge watching all your videos since I found your channel you are a hustler grinder and you do it all solo in your freaking flip flops but stay positive and grinding thanks for the entertainment
Also you were bleeding those injectors wrong. You are supposed to bleed them in order and one at a time like brake lines. Best to watch a RUclips video on how to bleed air out of injectors on a diesel engine. Hope this helps.
I would say definitely try replacing those injectors. Leaving the cylinder head out with the injectors in the elements then wire wheeling rust into them 100% clogged them
Oil rings only stop working because they become sludged up, wear is not a factor most of the time. Like ring gap doesn't matter. So cleaning up the old ones real well is good enough to make them good as new.
is it possible for you to do a compression test? is it smoking at all from the exhaust? try running some fresh diesel through it and don’t be scared to give her a little of that good stuff (starter fluid/carb cleaner) to help fire it off! as long as u don’t soak it enough to hydro lock it that 12 valve wont even tell the difference!!! and try adjusting the valves again, never hurts to make sure they are adjusted and closing when they should.
I was watching this thinking to myself "wonder how hes gonna tackle the rust on the deck and head surface?" Then you came back with "Im gonna wire wheel them!" And I was like "Nooooooooooo!!! 😂😪"
air in lines. Spray with ether. sometimes the oil runs down from rings after a rebuild and u loose all compression. Thats why i always use lucas to oil my rings when i assemble because it sticks to the rings and doesnt wash down. especially on gas cars. U will crank and have little to no compression because the fuel washes the rings off. I notice u used oil and not assy lube on sides of ur piston and light oil on walls. If the oil runs down because diesel washes the walls down, esp if its wd40 u will loose compression especially on a mint new hone. Id throw in some oil into the cylinders especially 1 and try to start with ether then bleed injectors. there are other old timers saying this in the comments. U look like u live in paradise bro dont give up, its a cummins they run home on 3 cyl
That’s a low compression low fuel pressure crank. And if it says .0060 on valve lash got to 65. Thicker oil on the push rod tips on a quick lap can make .0004 if you catch it. I’ve seen valves to tight causing the same thing also.
After leaving the head in the weather, the valve seats may have rust or corrosion that could be losing some compression. Also that rust and corrosion would give you a false rocker clearance.
Try warming up the block some with a heater, propane, electric whatever you got. After you got some heat into it spray it with some ether and give it a crank.
Take your flywheel tool add some extensions to it so that you can turn it over outside the truck on the passenger side and adjust your valve lash. Then you can make sure your valves are adjusted correctly to the specs then have someone to help you crank the engine over with the injector lines. Open cracked open, start at the p pump then they work your way to the injectors you have air in the injectors. It should not be a compression issue because I never saw diesel coming out of all the injector lines and it fired at one time so it has enough compression to fire check the lines and try not to use starting fluidbut good job on what you’re doing it’s air the worst thing a diesel can have an in line is hard to do in a yard but can be done the problem is diesel has ran back to the tank just start in the flow of the diesel would go first filter p pump injectors
I’m pretty confident that a inframe rebuild in a 3/4 ton pick up is harder than just swapping the engine but what do I know, expect for labor times and real life experiences. And you got bad injectors that’s why that piston failed and that spray pattern on top of the other pistons indicates a pour spray pattern and a bad injector overall.
spray diesel mixed with new engine oil stright in the intake followed by a spray of easy start and she might pop off .. lower compression oil will help so if it starts try get it to hold say 1800rpm might seat the rings
spray it with ether, if it starts then its the fuel system. the injection pumps are a weak point on the 12v. likely also have some non functioning glow plugs as well.
It sounds like it has good compression, try cracking line 6 and keep trying to crank it and put ether to try to start it. it will take a while to try to start. I would also check blowby on the oil cap, just remove it and place it over the hole to see if it bounces off or moves and take the radiator cap off and see if the headgasket is good by doing the same test, sometimes headgasket blowby and piston rings. update a video and see what happens. If we have no blowby then we have should have compression based on the sound and its a fuel deliver problem
Thank you for another nice video. I love your vids and your work attitude is great. A new video from you makes me want to go and work on my own junk a lot of times. I would have done the same thing with the Fram filter, like who gives a shit about an oil filter brand I use anything I can get my hands on. I'm thinking not enough fuel to the cylinders, I'm just not exactly how else to bleed the air out other than what you are doing by cracking open the injector lines. I really hope you can get it going, I like your Cummins flatbed and I want to see it roll with those new pistons. Thank you for taking the time to edit and upload quality content for us, it sure made my day while taking a break from my awful shit dealership job.
I didn’t see you stager the rings, but you could’ve also used a ball hone to get the deep grooves & maybe ordered a single .10 bigger piston for that bad cylinder
They make some stuff called belzona for those cylinder wall scratches. It works like jb weld but is made for high heat high friction. I would have rolled new main bearings while the pan was off.
2 hours isn't enough I'm thinking you still have air in it getting sucked in somewhere or maby a weak pump or maby bad flow plug I'm not a diesel mechanic eather and have no experience with a 12v but at the moment that's all I can think of. On another note if you haven't tried death wish coffee you really should like adding nos to a engine lol and Snickers or Reese's creamer lot of sugar but man good stuff!!!!!! Hope you get that thing figured out!!!!!!!
I usually wind up getting something fully together and then when going over everything in my head I cannot remember some detail like putting locktite on the cam gear bolts or something and apart she comes! Just to find that I did, in fact, locktite them... BUT THAT ONE TIME I don't check.... Please update us what the issue turns out to be! Sounds like air in the fuel lines/pump/filter or something, but I am a gas mechanic, only ever had one diesel, which I loved! It was a 12HP mini-excavator that I bought to do our driveway. Regret selling it.
I would get the head checked for flatness and do a leakdown test pressurize the cylinders and use a guage to watch for pressure leakage a sealed cylinder should hold about 95% of its pressure for at least 20 to 30 seconds
Was thinking maybe the oil pump is on its way out causing this issue in the 1st place. Check oil pressure. Also try starter fuel, if it starts i suspect bad fuel or water in the tank.
That's crazy bro. New piston heads but no new cylinder liners. You'll have some fine compression rings. Could have at least measure to know how badly warped and use a ball honer to give the cylinder some mesh.
I do not recommend honing a cylinder for more than a few seconds, at this point you've basically bored #1 so much you will undoubtedly have issues in the future. Whether it's a major lack of compression or piston chatter.
The second you said “everybody was saying you shouldn’t use a fram oil filter, so I went out and bought another fram filter” I instantly subscribed. I loved that.
I was overthinking my project car and this was the motivation I needed to just get down and dirty
Get it!!!!
Same, i paused the video and went out to my project.
You can get away with a lot if you use your head.
When bleeding the injectors bleed one at a time and bleed it till there is almost no bubbles coming out of each line, also make sure the water separator is drained and fresh fuel is ran through it
This could be the whole reason its not running
I think he don’t care.
This is true
Surely he tried to start it with starting fluid
@@simpsonhomerenovationsI was waiting for the ether to come out!
Man its refreshing hearing people say they dont know what they're doing. I love car videos like this but every channel be so in tuned and in depth it somewhat discourage people because we feel like we 10-15 years too late to be in this field
You learn what your doing by trying new things and messing up. Failing is part of the learning process.
Hopefully you can get it started by getting it to crank faster. If you put 24v to the starter and manually hold the fuel shut down up it might. Don’t hook up the truck to 24v or your cause damage but 24v Case equipment with the 5.9 I’ve been around spin over so fast I bet even with fairly low compression like this it might start.
I’ve been a mechanic since high school after more than 20 years I still say on a daily basis that this would be so much easier if only I knew what I was doing!! People laugh but I’m fairly serious.
Do a compression test and try lighting it off with ether also search the part number on the head gasket you used to see what it's compressed thickness is compared to factory. To me it seems like compression or fuel.
I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm doing it! That's the way I grew up no one really influenced me but now I'm self taughtin many thing from mechanics to electronics to quite a few other subjects. Truthfully still learning!
This would be how I think I would try to diagnose the issue; 1. Be suspect of the fuel system. Check to make sure it has fuel and that there is no water in it. Another thing is to crack the inlet into the injection pump to see if there is adequate fuel flow and pressure making it into the p pump. 2. New rebuilds are going to have lower compression until you get some heat in them to seat the rings so it very well may take a little ether for it to kick over fast enough. 3. Double check that the shut off solenoid is properly adjusted and functioning.
Only other thing is the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the pump toward the front of the head. As long as everything is assembled correctly then it may just be a little stubborn and need that initial hit. Hope you figure it out.
I'd just disconnect the shut off solenoid and see if that's causing fuel issues. I didn't hear it clicking when he was turning it over
Give it a shot of break cleaner or either
*Brake
*Ether
Oh yeah
lol, I had an engineer buddy who used to draw up plans for all his projects, and his projects always were near perfect.... dude would have got so much more done if spent less time planning and more time actually doing, I aim for 10% planning based on what I think a project will take, so if I think 3 hours, I spend 20 minutes, and usually the project takes 3X my estimate anyway...lol.
I do lots of small engine repair as a hobby. I usually order full service kits along with whatever actually needs replacing. Once I get it in the mail it gets fixed, that's all the planning I do; not letting shit accumulate.
That doesn’t make sense if his projects were near perfect he should continue planning lol quality over quantity bud
@@MadTuning01 he spent 3 years doing his hardwood floor... there is a such thing as "too much planning", but the notebooks on his cuts and such were meticulous. I did appreciate the beauty of his work... it was not lost on me, but he could have made the same quality without so much pen and paper for every step.
Could be air. Are you running the grid heater and does it work? Might want to go to harbor freight and get the diesel compression tester before tearing it back down. Do the oil trick with that
Yes check the compression. Even if you can't get it to run...still would be interesting to see how good, or bad it is.
Just finished binge watching your Cummings tow truck videos the algorithm recommended to me. Glad to catch another one. This series deserves its own playlist to keep up with. Your channel growth the past couple months has been great to see and the videos keep getting better.
* *Cummins*
Can you turn on the cation pls because I’m deaf and start to love watching you
Captions are in your setting upper right hand corner of the video
@ it do but it not turn it on
It work now
Hi am from Kenya 🇰🇪 living in Qatar 🇧🇭 I love your videos because it gives a lot of lessons to learn how to repair cars. Super cool 👍🏾
I love the way this video was edited made it very entertaining the whole way through. As a cummins owner who also has no idea what im doing this was an awesome video. Definitely subscribing and hope to see more content like this
Try a little starting fluid, I bet she’ll go
Giver a little sneef of canned consent bud!
Yes but if it starts and then stalls out its going to be a fuel problem, nameley a pump or maybe a gummed up injector
@@jamesbasye2362 Maybe his Diesel is old or water is in it. If this is a Diesel, why are there bubbles in the Diesel thats coming out of the lines? The Compression might be low, but it should still start. A VW i once had, should have had 13 Bar Compression but it only had almost 6. It still ran but it was reaaaaly not happy. This thing should start.
You don’t want to use that you will burn the first rings and piston it dumps to use wd40
@@CavemanJay-wv1pe or just flammable brake clean, ether is overkill, little bit of flammable brake clean down the intake and if it can start and doesnt stay running its a fuel delivery problem
crank the truck from starter motor and at the same time tighten each injector off as diesel comes through, do that to each injector one by one. Head gasket shouldn't be an issue. Petrols dont mind low compression they just smoke, diesels wont start unless excellent compression
Dude. Loved the breaking of the fourth wall on the wire wheel of the head. cracked me up.
Yes you can!!! My buddy and I rebuilt a 12 valve in the dirt under an oak tree with no machine work, no prep work and on an old heavy wood table
Love the paint job. Red and white is a classic color scheme, and the flare outs are a nice touch!
To be honest that bearing looks pretty good in terms of wear. Definitely not reusable, but looks like a natural wear pattern, which means the crank is healthy.
“This is the just send it channel” This is why I just subscribed!
I don’t know a damn thing about engines but I love to see ya tackling them!👍👏
it didnt look like it was spraying fuel when you re-cracked the lines... not sure if i just missed it or not. right behind and under the injection pump, you should see a little hand primer. you can pump the primer till it gets stiff, and should ensure that you are getting fuel to the pump and the injectors. does the grid heater work? is the truck pushing smoke at all when you were cranking it? also, make sure that the fuel shutoff solenoid isnt acting up. ive had them fail and completely disable trucks. the fuel shutoff solenoid will be mounted on the top side of the injection pump, and have 3 wires coming out of it. if its not pulling the arm up on its own with the key on, you can remove it (2 8mm bolts and a hairpin clip on the shutoff valve arm), and tie the arm for the shutoff valve up with a zip tie or a piece of wire.
seems like a fuel issue... these older trucks will run in absolutely terrible conditions. i doubt its the pistons or the head gasket. im betting its a fuel issue. what ive done on older mechanical injection diesels, is crack the lines loose, and just use the primer till i see fuel at the injectors. i cant recall if the p7100 pump will flow fuel through without the pump spinning, but id still give it a shot.
also, RIP starter hahaha! good luck Colin. i know she'll fire.
Ya I have a Ford 5.4 3 valve I bought all the parts for and did a complete rebuild. I had never totally rebuilt a V8 by myself. I got it together and it's still running strong 3 years later. Sometimes you just have to get it done.
With the head off. You can check cyl piston ring seal by pouring diesel fuel into the piston in the cyl.
If it holds, engine will run like new.
If it leaks out but takes a day it’ll run great but burn oil.
If the diesel leaks in 2-4hr it’ll start but not ideal.
Holds for 1hr or less then it might start but will smoke and shake.
Pro tip from the Land Rover diesel guys.
Wouldn’t it have been great to know how it seals before even putting the head on??
Bro if you used a thinner head gasket, didn't forget to perform a valve adjustment! A thinner head gasket or even surfacing the head effectively lengthens the pushrod length, and if it's far enough can hang valves open and leak compression.
I think the most important thing you forgot is the starting fluid. Things roached feed it all of it 😂
Have you tried starting it with cosby sauce?
Try the sauce. It it won't bang on it then u got a bigger problem
@@mohamedabada7101 yuuupp
And hot air gun or torch in the intake
One of my new favorite channels…thanks a lot for giving me motivation. You the man. Also, love the format and tempo of the vids.
Remove spark plugs and test compression using the compression tester on all cylinders that way. If all cylinders lack compression it’s your head gasket. Shouldn’t be the cylinders.
Sparkplugs?
@ 🤣🤣🤣🤦🏽♂️. Forgot it’s a diesel
All the internet mechanics lol😢
It's the Fram! JK, I know that diesel injection pumps used to have to be primed. Not sure if that has anything to do with it at all though.
Lmao damn oil filter
I gotta admit I thought this was a joke at first when i clicked on it to watch. But after hearing your beginning opening lines, I'll give you credit for trying it no matter if it fails or not(probability is quite high it wont last)! Too many people don't do anything at all cause of fear of it failing but thats your drive so kudos to you for that. I hope this works but honestly I doubt it will without precise measurements to know how worn the cylinders are plus all that rust from sitting wide open is not great to say the least. Might wanna run a hone through them holes first to clean them up. Plus missing\damaged rings are no bueno big time! Good luck though!👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔩🛢️😬😆
✊🏻🇺🇲🦅🇺🇲✊🏻
Man when you were about to wire brush the head I was like
"NO! NOOO. PLEASE!"
That's probably what did it. Always use brake clean and high grit sand paper. Those wire brushes create uneven slices in the surface and the head gasket won't seal right.
Fram is NO GOOD. Fram will make some engines delay bringing up the oil pressure on startup.
so hyped to see this bad larry up and running again, I really thought you had it this video
Meeee toooooo…. Maybe in the next video 😅
My first engine rebuild was on the ground and my engine hoist was a piece of old door frame cut just long enough to fit between the fenders with some rope holding the engine up.
I lifted the whole car up on bricks and old brake discs and dropped the engine out the bottom. Once i was done i pulled it back up with a ratchet strap.
And that engine handled 18psi of boost after that for years like no problem, was the best shitbox ever before a guy decided to pull out in front of me and totaled it.
Oil in the cylinders from assembly might have temporarily increased the compression making it pop off at the beginning, yes
Any piston work should involve making sure the rings are soaked in oil.
And cyl walls are covered with a film of oil.
Oil the cyl walls.
Rotate engine.
Clean walls.
And re lube.
Never asked for a how to
this
Maybe do a compression check and then bleed the fuel lines some more
After watching this I am no longer scared to start a project and only using Fram oil filters from now on.
Hmm lots of good comments below about what it could be. Starting fluid could be an interesting option. Obviously theres fuel getting to those lines so i dont think its fuel related unless the injectors are clogged/being gay?
If his injectors are gay the fuel delivery will not be straight🙃
Double check your timing. When I did my head gasket and some pump work my truck did the exact same thing. It would start with a little starter fluid but would make a lot of white smoke… the Timing gear had slipped on the pump. Changed it and it started right up
Just got to the end. Bummer. Maybe the valves are too tight and stuck open? that would hurt compression for sure. Loosen them up then test?
I bought pistons for me cobalt for for 140 and that was 2 years ago and it's still running great
You need a helper to bleed injectors 1 at a time. You seal all of them tight and unscrew ome whole someone cranks it. You tighten each injector while its spraying. I used to have to do this everytime I started my diesel. Its a sign of leaking injector lines.
If your rockers are a bit loose, thats ok, the lifters have bled down due to not running so long. After you get it started, they should pump up and be ok. Id try hitting it with a bit of cosby sauce(ether) it should start then. Once it runs a bit and warms up, it should start ok
12v doesn't have hydraulic lifters. Flat tappets.
How do 5.9 Cummins lifters leak down exactly? Asking for a friend
Fkkkiinnggg FACTS about overthinking a project…. I just completed a small one that turned out to be totally fine… despite my brain wanting to put it off for a few days. Hella annoying.
I put cheap rods in my diesel and 2.5yr later the rod bent, broke the #1cyl off the engine block.
Threw the alternator into the radiator. …
Then I had to rebuild the whole thing.
If I could go back ida kept the stock pistons a rods and just re ringed them.
But the second time around I did a bunch of fun mods
But my current engine with 42,000 was built with the same rings from the motor that broke a rod.
Engines are fun.
Stock is best.
I started mechanic work on making diesel vw fast.
And now I make them purposefully slower.
The slower your vehicle is …
the longer it lasts.
My engines capable of 160hp 300tq
And it’s tuned to maybe 75hp and 130tq.
The truth is if you wasted a piston it’s 99% chance the nozzle is spitting.
I’ll cheap out on a lot but if you like your diesel…
You’ll get professionally done injectors.
Want it even more bullet proof …
Open the piston bowls up.
I opened mine by just using a large socket.
And cutting it into a cutter with a grinder.
Easy to self machine aluminum pistons. Worth it.
Never reuse rod bearings.
They’re so cheap.
Loved your video.
Anything like atomized I burned fuel out the tailpipe? If non of that or black exhaust, then there’s no/not enough fuel getting to the injectors. I used to use a hand pump pulling directly from the tank to the engine driven fuel pump or to the filter just prior to the engine driven fuel pump (Detroit Diesel series 60). If you don’t have a hand pump to prime the system, make sure filters are full of fuel, batteries are charged and get the either out…
Hand boat siphon is only $9.99 at parts store.
Every diesel owner should have one.
Works great for setting prime.
What up Colin I been binge watching all your videos since I found your channel you are a hustler grinder and you do it all solo in your freaking flip flops but stay positive and grinding thanks for the entertainment
Also you were bleeding those injectors wrong. You are supposed to bleed them in order and one at a time like brake lines. Best to watch a RUclips video on how to bleed air out of injectors on a diesel engine. Hope this helps.
Most times makes no difference.
I would say definitely try replacing those injectors. Leaving the cylinder head out with the injectors in the elements then wire wheeling rust into them 100% clogged them
From nozzle? Not gonna happen.
My guess too. Those injectors are prob done with all that rust and then a wire wheel🫣
this guys fucking hilarious😂, had a few good laughs at this video
Oil rings only stop working because they become sludged up, wear is not a factor most of the time. Like ring gap doesn't matter.
So cleaning up the old ones real well is good enough to make them good as new.
is it possible for you to do a compression test? is it smoking at all from the exhaust? try running some fresh diesel through it and don’t be scared to give her a little of that good stuff (starter fluid/carb cleaner) to help fire it off! as long as u don’t soak it enough to hydro lock it that 12 valve wont even tell the difference!!! and try adjusting the valves again, never hurts to make sure they are adjusted and closing when they should.
first time seeing your videos bro and you def got the potential to get it running, don’t get discouraged!
I was watching this thinking to myself "wonder how hes gonna tackle the rust on the deck and head surface?" Then you came back with "Im gonna wire wheel them!" And I was like "Nooooooooooo!!! 😂😪"
air in lines. Spray with ether. sometimes the oil runs down from rings after a rebuild and u loose all compression. Thats why i always use lucas to oil my rings when i assemble because it sticks to the rings and doesnt wash down. especially on gas cars. U will crank and have little to no compression because the fuel washes the rings off. I notice u used oil and not assy lube on sides of ur piston and light oil on walls. If the oil runs down because diesel washes the walls down, esp if its wd40 u will loose compression especially on a mint new hone. Id throw in some oil into the cylinders especially 1 and try to start with ether then bleed injectors.
there are other old timers saying this in the comments. U look like u live in paradise bro dont give up, its a cummins they run home on 3 cyl
spooked that it may be the silly pistons and stone bone hone, however watch it be the valves. give us a compression test.
That’s a low compression low fuel pressure crank. And if it says .0060 on valve lash got to 65. Thicker oil on the push rod tips on a quick lap can make .0004 if you catch it. I’ve seen valves to tight causing the same thing also.
After leaving the head in the weather, the valve seats may have rust or corrosion that could be losing some compression. Also that rust and corrosion would give you a false rocker clearance.
All that stuff in the cart for $400. Killer deal!
Try warming up the block some with a heater, propane, electric whatever you got. After you got some heat into it spray it with some ether and give it a crank.
18:11 the dead eye stare. I feel you.
Take your flywheel tool add some extensions to it so that you can turn it over outside the truck on the passenger side and adjust your valve lash. Then you can make sure your valves are adjusted correctly to the specs then have someone to help you crank the engine over with the injector lines. Open cracked open, start at the p pump then they work your way to the injectors you have air in the injectors. It should not be a compression issue because I never saw diesel coming out of all the injector lines and it fired at one time so it has enough compression to fire check the lines and try not to use starting fluidbut good job on what you’re doing it’s air the worst thing a diesel can have an in line is hard to do in a yard but can be done the problem is diesel has ran back to the tank just start in the flow of the diesel would go first filter p pump injectors
I’m pretty confident that a inframe rebuild in a 3/4 ton pick up is harder than just swapping the engine but what do I know, expect for labor times and real life experiences. And you got bad injectors that’s why that piston failed and that spray pattern on top of the other pistons indicates a pour spray pattern and a bad injector overall.
spray diesel mixed with new engine oil stright in the intake followed by a spray of easy start and she might pop off .. lower compression oil will help so if it starts try get it to hold say 1800rpm might seat the rings
Try bleeding the pump and each injector separate
I like your videos bro 🙏
Thank you!
just CHICKEN WING IT channel. LOVE your work.
For the head you can’t take a piece of glass, glue some sandpaper to it, and lay it onto a flat cement surface and use that to sand your head flat
spray it with ether, if it starts then its the fuel system. the injection pumps are a weak point on the 12v. likely also have some non functioning glow plugs as well.
Of course he should use a FRAM filter. It'll make for another interesting engine rebuild.
wow this guy's actually a mechanic
Well there’s your problem, needs more espresso ☕️
I’ll put some in the fuel filter
Many piston ring grooves have been done by very special manufacturing processes , so hand filing grooves only encourages oil usage .
It sounds like it has good compression, try cracking line 6 and keep trying to crank it and put ether to try to start it. it will take a while to try to start. I would also check blowby on the oil cap, just remove it and place it over the hole to see if it bounces off or moves and take the radiator cap off and see if the headgasket is good by doing the same test, sometimes headgasket blowby and piston rings. update a video and see what happens. If we have no blowby then we have should have compression based on the sound and its a fuel deliver problem
Thank you for another nice video. I love your vids and your work attitude is great. A new video from you makes me want to go and work on my own junk a lot of times. I would have done the same thing with the Fram filter, like who gives a shit about an oil filter brand I use anything I can get my hands on. I'm thinking not enough fuel to the cylinders, I'm just not exactly how else to bleed the air out other than what you are doing by cracking open the injector lines. I really hope you can get it going, I like your Cummins flatbed and I want to see it roll with those new pistons.
Thank you for taking the time to edit and upload quality content for us, it sure made my day while taking a break from my awful shit dealership job.
I say you should get it started on some go juice so the rings get seated and it will run better after that.
I didn’t see you stager the rings, but you could’ve also used a ball hone to get the deep grooves & maybe ordered a single .10 bigger piston for that bad cylinder
Real reality,very refreshing keep it up!
If you tell Amazon your order arrived damaged they will send you replacement for free and you send the damaged ones and get your money refunded
I know what's wrong with it, ain't got no gas in it! Force it running to brake it in. You could tow manual on gear. You got this.
They make some stuff called belzona for those cylinder wall scratches. It works like jb weld but is made for high heat high friction. I would have rolled new main bearings while the pan was off.
Main bearings last forever on good engine
A snort of starting fluid might get it to pop off. Compression might be a lil low until the new piston rings get seated
Thoroughly enjoyed this video. New subscriber gained!
I love the just send it channel
2 hours isn't enough I'm thinking you still have air in it getting sucked in somewhere or maby a weak pump or maby bad flow plug I'm not a diesel mechanic eather and have no experience with a 12v but at the moment that's all I can think of. On another note if you haven't tried death wish coffee you really should like adding nos to a engine lol and Snickers or Reese's creamer lot of sugar but man good stuff!!!!!! Hope you get that thing figured out!!!!!!!
These engines don’t have glow plugs.
They have a grid heater.
I usually wind up getting something fully together and then when going over everything in my head I cannot remember some detail like putting locktite on the cam gear bolts or something and apart she comes! Just to find that I did, in fact, locktite them... BUT THAT ONE TIME I don't check....
Please update us what the issue turns out to be! Sounds like air in the fuel lines/pump/filter or something, but I am a gas mechanic, only ever had one diesel, which I loved! It was a 12HP mini-excavator that I bought to do our driveway. Regret selling it.
Holy shit! That shopping cart of stuff would have cost 1500 here in Australia hahahaha
check pump and engine timing, check fuel system for leaks, check fss is pulling all the way up.
I would get the head checked for flatness and do a leakdown test pressurize the cylinders and use a guage to watch for pressure leakage a sealed cylinder should hold about 95% of its pressure for at least 20 to 30 seconds
Was thinking maybe the oil pump is on its way out causing this issue in the 1st place. Check oil pressure. Also try starter fuel, if it starts i suspect bad fuel or water in the tank.
Ace Hardware. No more HD or Lwes, ace has every nut and bolt you can need.
Your moms got every nut I need
You can use a Fram oil filter... if you don't care about your engine.😊
That's crazy bro. New piston heads but no new cylinder liners. You'll have some fine compression rings. Could have at least measure to know how badly warped and use a ball honer to give the cylinder some mesh.
Did you try a lil starting fluid?
I do not recommend honing a cylinder for more than a few seconds, at this point you've basically bored #1 so much you will undoubtedly have issues in the future. Whether it's a major lack of compression or piston chatter.
Also was it just me or did that motor mount piece break off at 3:23??
Lol maybe. Weight reduction
Should do a compression test. Then a leak down test.
ha, one way to find out for sure! thats what I say before I regret my decisions sometimes.
Story of my life 🤣
Sounds like a fuel related issue. I've gotten low compression engines to start. Crack the lines at the pump and check pressure on the low side
This is called research and development😂😂😂😂❤