How I fixed my Chevrolet Uplander with No Heat
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
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Chevrolet Uplander No Heat.. How To Bleed A Cooling System. This absolutely fixed my heat problem. Let vehicle run for roughly 15 minutes. Make sure the overflow is full after cap installed. Just let everybody know if this does not work you might need to blow out your heater core.
The whole story about no heat in the Uplander; at least up to date anyway. Manufacturer defect. No official fix, but a guy in the Chevy forums came up with the idea of rerouting one of the heater lines to get rid of all the twists and turns. Worked perfectly. Evidently the pump is not strong enough to keep the water flowing unless and until the engine stays revved up over 2000 RPM. Dealing with it myself right now. Something involving bypassing one of the two lines with a 4 foot length of new heater hose. A professional mechanic came along and affirmed his fix, but decided to bypass both lines. He was very thankful for the person who came up with the idea for pointing him in the right direction and saving him a ton of headaches as he had a customers van he was worried about taking back in the shop after having done two flushes and getting nowhere. Another fix that GM was totally against was getting an assist pump from say a marine outfit to mount and wire in someway. It worked, but GM got real hot under the collar about it. This would have very likely been an official recall, but for the Bankruptcy all them years ago. The bypass with a new heater hose routing to shorten and remove unnecessary twists, turns, dips and climbs is the gold standard fix even if GM refuses to weigh in on the issue. Anything else you do will at best be a temporary fix. The only official word from GM was an admission that the heater Core was mounted in a far less than preferable position. Possibly I think they were meaning it was mounted too high causing the routing to not be able to push the water with the stock water pump.
P.S Lets just say the rerouting of the HVAC heater hoses is the answer to your prayers, but the damned routing of the stock inlet and outlet HVAC hoses is so damn convoluted its pretty damn scarry to take a knife to the existing stock hose system, so for most people including myself I would not call it simplicity, but calling it the gold standard in fixes is in all fairness pretty much right on point no doubt. In addition to the above posted bleed/burp procedure from GM I am attempting to give you the link direct to the Cheverlet forum thread so you can read the actual posts about the rerouting of the hoses yourself. If you start at the first post and keep reading you will eventually get to it. Leastwise I am pointing you in the right direction and you can judge for yourself the voracity of the information I have offered everyone. I bought my 2008 Uplander LS 3.9 L extended cab back in July 2022 with 115,000 miles on it. I live in Colorado and with no heat I was forced to dig deep on how to fix the heat. chevroletforum.com/forum/uplander-31/2008-uplander-heat-problem-20931/page10/
I had heat issues with my 2007's and it turned out to be the hose in the coolant reservoir letting air in because of it being at an angle. I faced it straight down and now the issue has came to an end.
What the hell did you do? It would help if you explained what was going on. ..
exactly lol the video makes no sense
This lets the bubbles out. Bubbles get caught in a tube, and the hot coolant can't circulate there.
There is an official release from GM on how to bleed/burp the system from back in 2010. Here is a copy and paste of it.
GM 3.9L 3900 Coolant Radiator purge bleed burp procedure
1. Close the radiator drain cock.
2. If a complete engine block drain was required, install the coolant drain plugs
to the engine block. Refer to Draining Fluids and Oil Filter Removal for the
3.5L engine or to Draining Fluids and Oil Filter Removal for the 3.9L engine.
Important: Use a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL antifreeze and clean,
drinkable water.
3. Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture until the coolant
level is visible and stable. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities .
4. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
5. Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
40 seconds, then shut engine off.
6. Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
7. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
8. Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
30 seconds, then shut engine off.
9. Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
10. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
11.Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
20 seconds, then shut engine off.
12.Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
13. Install the pressure cap, fully threaded on.
14. Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the indicator line, then add 400 milliliters
(13.5 ounces) more.
15.Start the engine and run it above 2500 RPM until it is hot enough to open the
thermostat, this will allow the trapped air to be purged from the engine.
16.Complete a series of three, 4-second-duration idles with 4-second-duration
3000 RPM cycles.
17. Turn the engine off and allow it to cool down to room temperature.
18. Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the indicator line.
19. Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant using the J 26568 .
20.Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
© 2010 General Motors. All rights reserved.
Thank you both - I will start with the cap and go from there. 07 Uplander
Thanks, my heater works great now!
Great news
I only get a little heat when my Chevy uplander is in motion. When the car is idling no heat just cold air. What can it be the problem? I replace the water pump and the thermostat. Next is heater core?
Manufacturer defect. No official fix, but a guy in the Chevy forums came up with the idea of rerouting the heater lines to get rid of all the twists and turns. Worked perfectly. Evidently the pump is not strong enough to keep the water flowing unless and until the engine stays revved up over 2000 RPM. Dealing with it myself right now. Something involving bypassing one of the two lines with a 4 foot length of heater hose. A professional mechanic came along and affirmed his fix and decided to bypass both lines. He was very thankful for the person who came up with the idea for pointing him in the right direction and saving him a ton of headaches as he had a customers van he was worried about taking back in the shop after having done two flushes and getting nowhere. Another fix that GM was totally against was getting an assist pump from say a marine outfit to mount and wire in someway. It worked, but GM got real hot under the collar about it. This would have very likely been an official recall, but for the Bankruptcy all them years ago. The bypass with a new heater hose routing to shorten and remove unnecessary twists, turns, dips and climbs is the gold standard fix even if GM refuses to weigh in on the issue. Anything else you do will at best be a temporary fix. The only official word from GM was an admission that the heater Core was mounted in a far less than preferable position. Possibly I think they were meaning it was mounted too high causing the routing to not be able to push the water with the water pump.
Sorry that only temporary solves the problem. the good news is there is a fix we struggled with this problem for years we have a 2008 uplander . a friend of ours told us to replace the radiator cap and ever since we have had heat.
Sad to here this did not fix your heat issue. I had to blow out my heater core few years after this. On line we are not the only ones with no heat in our Chevrolet Uplander's. Glad to here you have heat!
was it same replacement cap or something with a different temperature rating?
i dont know what is the connection with radiator cap
Sorry. I know this is an old post but our Uplander all of a sudden gets zero heat in the front. Could it be something so silly as replacing the rad cap?
The whole story about no heat in the Uplander; at least up to date anyway. Manufacturer defect. No official fix, but a guy in the Chevy forums came up with the idea of rerouting one of the heater lines to get rid of all the twists and turns. Worked perfectly. Evidently the pump is not strong enough to keep the water flowing unless and until the engine stays revved up over 2000 RPM. Dealing with it myself right now. Something involving bypassing one of the two lines with a 4 foot length of new heater hose. A professional mechanic came along and affirmed his fix, but decided to bypass both lines. He was very thankful for the person who came up with the idea for pointing him in the right direction and saving him a ton of headaches as he had a customers van he was worried about taking back in the shop after having done two flushes and getting nowhere. Another fix that GM was totally against was getting an assist pump from say a marine outfit to mount and wire in someway. It worked, but GM got real hot under the collar about it. This would have very likely been an official recall, but for the Bankruptcy all them years ago. The bypass with a new heater hose routing to shorten and remove unnecessary twists, turns, dips and climbs is the gold standard fix even if GM refuses to weigh in on the issue. Anything else you do will at best be a temporary fix. The only official word from GM was an admission that the heater Core was mounted in a far less than preferable position. Possibly I think they were meaning it was mounted too high causing the routing to not be able to push the water with the stock water pump.
I fixed the heater issue on my van and the electrical issue with the lights. Now, my climate controls are dead. What could it be?
Make sure you use the proper coolant (Dex cool) Chevy z. Just because it doesn't clog up the lines
You can use other coolant as long as your not mixing them. If your adding fluid use dex if you flushing and refilling use whatever color you want. SLime usually happens because other coolants don't react will with dex.
@@truthbetold7170 I disagree. “Use whatever you want” will inevitably cause mixing in the future. For example, I have no idea what was in the Pontiac Montana I just received but it had a coolant leak and I had to add coolant until I could get it fixed. I didn’t know anything about color differences and it wouldn’t have mattered much if I did since I am colorblind and it was already too dilute and gunky to tell.
@@emmettturner9452 i can agree with your point. I guess my perspective is from someone self maintaining there own vehicle. I personally don't like dexcool and will completely flush it out of the system if needing to do a repair.
@@truthbetold7170 Right. Of course, you might take it in for some other service and get a complimentary fluids top-off of someone else in your household might find themselves in need of coolant on the side of the road so it might be good to put your own instructions by the ones from GM. ;)
When I added coolant I could only assume it had Dex-cool in there so I bought and added more. Seeing how much gunk is floating in there makes me think it is mixed or I need a coolant flush. Guess I’ll be flushing it next! Thanks for the advice.
There's nothing there to comment on a funnel sitting on top of a car motor what kind of s*** is that? How does it fun on top of a car engine help fix no eight
You had air.
My heat is warm, until I put the motor under strain (put in drive, foot on brake and rev a little) only then does the heater gets burning hot. Idling at a light, the heat cools.
I'm having the same issue. Were you ever able to find a solution?
@@truthbetold7170 low on coolant. Didn't realize it. I had a water pump issue with another chev van, so I was expecting that. As they get older, it might need some stopleak. The headgasket might be leaking.
@@truckerdaddy-akajohninqueb4793 I was able to diagnose it further and found out the water pump is the issue once I got the air bubble worked out of the heater core and got it under pressure it started leaking. Glad it wasn’t the head gasket at least no signs of it being blown yet that is.
@@truthbetold7170 Awesome. Coolant level ok? How many miles?
@@truckerdaddy-akajohninqueb4793 coolant level was low I had to burp the system twice and was able to add about 2 quarts then it started leaking which was a relief because I was worried the head gasket blew but no coolant in the oil so we’re good as of right now. Van has 160K on it. Changing out pump this weekend and hopefully that will be the end of it.
Transmission went out on our 2008 Chevy Uplander should I get it rebuilt or change the transmission or Junk it??? Please somebody help!!! The charge is $1500 to rebuild it is it worth it???
I did to mine, it's worth it for me because I use it for work
Junk it
get new old uplander make sure you get same year so you can use parts like i do
Did you need to elevate the front end at all?
How much does a radiator cap run? My 2008 Uplander is without heat too
I have a similar problem with my 2007 Chevy Uplander. Air is cool when stopped... Once idling it is hot! What might the problem be?
+Eddiegotgoods secondary water booster
I have same problem with 08 uplander cool when stopped. Did you find a solution?
leave it get cold, then take the rad cap off, start it, let it warm right up so it serculates and gets most air out, then slowly pore more in until it's full, let it run for 10 more mins keeping an eye in the serculation and you shouls see the air coming out or it lowering nedding mor if it needs more fill it again wait 5 mins then put the cap on and drive it and see if there is a change on the heat, if it does the same, buy a new cap because that's the problem!! good luck!!
Same problem with 07 Uplander heat only works above 1500 rpm.
The whole story about no heat in the Uplander; at least up to date anyway. Manufacturer defect. No official fix, but a guy in the Chevy forums came up with the idea of rerouting one of the heater lines to get rid of all the twists and turns. Worked perfectly. Evidently the pump is not strong enough to keep the water flowing unless and until the engine stays revved up over 2000 RPM. Dealing with it myself right now. Something involving bypassing one of the two lines with a 4 foot length of new heater hose. A professional mechanic came along and affirmed his fix, but decided to bypass both lines. He was very thankful for the person who came up with the idea for pointing him in the right direction and saving him a ton of headaches as he had a customers van he was worried about taking back in the shop after having done two flushes and getting nowhere. Another fix that GM was totally against was getting an assist pump from say a marine outfit to mount and wire in someway. It worked, but GM got real hot under the collar about it. This would have very likely been an official recall, but for the Bankruptcy all them years ago. The bypass with a new heater hose routing to shorten and remove unnecessary twists, turns, dips and climbs is the gold standard fix even if GM refuses to weigh in on the issue. Anything else you do will at best be a temporary fix. The only official word from GM was an admission that the heater Core was mounted in a far less than preferable position. Possibly I think they were meaning it was mounted too high causing the routing to not be able to push the water with the stock water pump.