That IAC adjustment makes a huge difference. Holley puts it on the last page of their instructions, and everyone (including myself) overlooks it. Supposed to be between 2% and 10% when fully warmed up. Once i figured that out, startups and idle were drastically improved. On my stock throttle body the adjustment had to almost be maxed out. I'm sure you know of this, just a lesson I learned while chasing my tail for a bit.
I break them in with bringing up to temp for a max of thirty minutes. Change it, and then drive under 4000 rpm while fluctuating throttle. After 300 km(in Canada) change again and run another 800km up to 4500 rpm . Change again and run it. Not sure if anything I do is right or wrong but it’s worked so far. I am not running big hp though so I am probably totally wrong. 😆 New shop looks great. Excited to see it when completed.
Yeah, a new battery is good when they don't cost over a $100. That's why I always have a good battery charger handy. I've kept old batteries going for years. Especially for vehicles or batteries that don't get driven or used much. A battery tender is a must!
Amazing build🔥you and Adam LZ are the reason why I got into cars and started building a truck!!Love how you started a build different from what you guys usually build!!
Love to see this. TR has 500k+ subs- makes plenty of $$ & is still building fun, approachable budget builds for regular/ younger/ new car enthusiasts to aspire to build. So good man. I appreciate checking this channel ever couple of months and not seeing exotics & shit haha
Holley makes it so easy lol, my friends 5.3 swap with terminator in his s10 was easier to get running than the k20 and kpro in my em1 haha. Truck is mean AF, great job!
Highly recommend Deka (East-Penn) batteries. Napa batteries are made by them as well. Last batteries you will ever need to buy and they don't break the bank. I've used tons of batteries over the years, Interstate, Optima, Odyssey, Everstart, Duralast you name it. Buy Deka every time!!!
I agree with the battery thing electrical issues are annoying. My car went crazy flashing lights and attempting to turn over on its own because of a dead battery and trash stock electrical system. Ended up grabbing some high quality 4gauge wire and making my own cables and the car has never had that problem again.
One thing that should even be on the box your cam came in is to use a high zinc oil for break in or the lifters will eat the cam lobes. Tip You local building supplies should have rolls of aluminium flashing. This is excellent for making heat shielding and ducts and splash guards.
You need to put a $20 7" ebay fan on that trans cooler at the Least! (see my cooler post on another vid) WOT puts 5x the heat into an auto trans and I'm sure you have some stall on that. IDK if you have lock-up still but if not your gonna overheat that trans real quick! Heats kills an auto trans. Put a Temp gauge on it and google "auto trans life expectancy".
If you don't move cars for longer than 2 weeks, consider putting a maintenance charger on it that keeps it around 13.4 V or so. That way lead acid batteries will stay alive WAY longer.
Up north you’re better off taking it inside if its winter. Most people run pristine engine compartments and clean everything yet they have the most jank battery setup rigged like a crackhead installed it. I’m building lithium batteries now - I hate lead acids
Got a sweet twin turbo build on my daily with nelson 72/68 symetrical gen2 turbos Huge liquid to air bosch 2200cc inj On flex thru stock ecu Hydraboost Rewired engine wiring and harnesses lengthened to fit Relocated heater and ac pipes Van ps pump and remote resevoir Full 3in custom exhaust The turbos are eng oil fed ball bearing and liquid cooled 5.3 ls w 228 230 cam I have a boost ready 6.0 on a stand for later with same cam Its an 04 silverado ext cab 4x4 with 4/5 drop Coilover conversion in front with 2in drop spindle 3000 stall converter Just need few hrs to install turbos make short downpipe and tune Everything but the turbos is done
I’m the first guy when it comes to new motor builds. Was taught that way and I was able to see first hand what happens when you have a new motor “warm” and hitting the limiter. The piston grew faster than the cylinder and exploded then threw the rod out of the side of the block.
That literally doesn’t happen.. Your ring gap was too tight / I’m 51, grew up building ToP fuel and too alcohol dragsters with my dad, then went on to become an Audi tech, and have worked in the aftermarket building engines for 20+ years; 35 years if you count the dragsters as a kid.. I’ve personally built over 100 engines. You screwed up the ring gap
@@ButtKickersReviews I didn’t build the motor for 1. And 2 it was an air cooled motorcycle. The cylinders and pistons are a bit different than alcohol engines. I went out to tell the guy to stop reving it and it exploded. You could see where the piston skirts were grinding the cylinders and there was still a chuck of the piston welded to the cylinder. But I guess that doesn’t happen.
Love this build. My one question is why would you not turn the cooler around to have the lines facing the engine? Wouldn't that be easier with a almost straight shot in and out?
I think it's something to do with longer length lines allowing some heat to dissipate before it even gets to the cooler, and allows for more fluid in the system as well. I could be wrong though so don't take it as the gospel truth 😂
I ran my trans coolers where the spare tire was. I have 2 large coolers/fans and have zero trans cooling issues. Plus puts weight in the rear where these trucks need it.
Atta frigg'in boy champ! Nothing better than that first build startup!! Hell yeah, stoked for you & to see it continue, hard work pays fellas, beast! Time for some dyno time. Be safe. Salute
it is for sure the rule of thumb is first start let it get to operating temp then rev under load to 2-4 k for about 5-10 mins then kill the engine and change oil and filter inspect for any metal shavings then replace oil with high zync oil for the first 200-500 miles for break in
I bought that battery the day before I drove up to Matt Happel’s place and put the truck on the dyno. They was a 48 dollar Walmart battery and it lasted
Break in is definitely not super critical and you're pretty unlikely to mess it up. The main purpose is to seta the ring which requires cylinder pressure, and cylinder vacuum, (think engine breaking) to put pressure on both side of the rings. Some medium acceleration and then engine breaking is probably your best bet. And it is definitely completed after an hour or two of run time.
There's a set screw on the passenger side of the throttle body. Adjust that to get your IAC value between 5-8% (I think that's the value you're shooting for). Do that when the motors up to temp an it should take care of your idle issue..
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude the shop walls are up! Awesome, can’t wait for the next shop vid 🤙
I was hoping for a update on it! 😂
We are waiting
i saw that also in the background!!!! Congrats Taylor!!!
Hopefully the next video is shop update?? 🤞🤞🤞🤞
You can mount the trans cooler in the back under the bed, common practice on diesel trucks..
With a thermostatically controlled fan, works fantastic
@@stellco He might even be able to run it with the holley!
I did that setup with thermostat controlled fan plus a spin on oil filter
Its too close to the exhaust
This is dope me and my dad are building a big hp chevy k5 blazer
Holy Moly......the new work shop.......its huge 😁
Sounds good!
And holy crap the new workshop is looking huge!
how do you know
@@bloodydeath1222 you can see it in the background of the shots where he was showing the new exhaust installed
@@bloodydeath1222 7:56
Just whent back and watched that part and yeah that's a dream home shop for sure hes goin to do amazing things in there....
@@bloodydeath1222 ruclips.net/video/RYuUlLdbIUk/видео.html
If your trying to hide to new shop you gave us a sneak peek 🤣 that thing looks HUGE 👌update soon please
Hey Taylor, that factory plug on the range sensor is actually glued in place from the factory, that's why it won't come apart easily 👍
That explains it. Lol
@@Taylordrifts a heat gun works wonders for that adhesive.
A glimpse of the new shop shell up! Happy to see the progress there.
Beat Holley™️ ad I've ever watched. Lol
I saw a new building in the shop spot can wait to see that coming
That IAC adjustment makes a huge difference. Holley puts it on the last page of their instructions, and everyone (including myself) overlooks it. Supposed to be between 2% and 10% when fully warmed up. Once i figured that out, startups and idle were drastically improved. On my stock throttle body the adjustment had to almost be maxed out. I'm sure you know of this, just a lesson I learned while chasing my tail for a bit.
The new shop on the background is looking good
I break them in with bringing up to temp for a max of thirty minutes. Change it, and then drive under 4000 rpm while fluctuating throttle. After 300 km(in Canada) change again and run another 800km up to 4500 rpm . Change again and run it. Not sure if anything I do is right or wrong but it’s worked so far. I am not running big hp though so I am probably totally wrong. 😆
New shop looks great. Excited to see it when completed.
Chevy 6.0 is a 366 ! Loving this build
Now all it needs is that HD front end swap !!
Just love Chrissy's countdown of 2 seconds and you hadn't even started. Sort of thing I do as well
This man needs a Holley Sponsorship. Keep up the killer work Taylor!
He already has one
Yeah, a new battery is good when they don't cost over a $100.
That's why I always have a good battery charger handy. I've kept old batteries going for years.
Especially for vehicles or batteries that don't get driven or used much. A battery tender is a must!
Man that band comes in clutch on that exhaust
New shop is looking nice already
Amazing build🔥you and Adam LZ are the reason why I got into cars and started building a truck!!Love how you started a build different from what you guys usually build!!
Love to see this. TR has 500k+ subs- makes plenty of $$ & is still building fun, approachable budget builds for regular/ younger/ new car enthusiasts to aspire to build. So good man. I appreciate checking this channel ever couple of months and not seeing exotics & shit haha
Man I couldn’t wait for this video to come out !
Holley makes it so easy lol, my friends 5.3 swap with terminator in his s10 was easier to get running than the k20 and kpro in my em1 haha. Truck is mean AF, great job!
Highly recommend Deka (East-Penn) batteries. Napa batteries are made by them as well. Last batteries you will ever need to buy and they don't break the bank. I've used tons of batteries over the years, Interstate, Optima, Odyssey, Everstart, Duralast you name it. Buy Deka every time!!!
I agree with the battery thing electrical issues are annoying.
My car went crazy flashing lights and attempting to turn over on its own because of a dead battery and trash stock electrical system.
Ended up grabbing some high quality 4gauge wire and making my own cables and the car has never had that problem again.
What a tease. I wanted to see a 20lb pull first drive.
You need a whiteboard in the shop for checklists brother😝
Build the new shop build the new shop 👍👍👍
One thing that should even be on the box your cam came in is to use a high zinc oil for break in or the lifters will eat the cam lobes.
Tip
You local building supplies should have rolls of aluminium flashing. This is excellent for making heat shielding and ducts and splash guards.
Taylor is hating on the boostedboiz with that whole dead battery talk
Seeing some shop walls in the back ground. Looks like some progress is being made. Great stuff.
100 rockauto magnets 👍🏻looks like my old tool box
Stoked for you Taylor!
Hell yeah! Been waiting for this.
Good job dude, this is exciting
So, new shop is here. Waiting for video :D
am i the only one who saw the siding on the new shop?!!? that looks awesome from the small bit i saw
It's a good sounding truck can't wait to hear it hammer down.
Sounds awesome Taylor!!! I hooked my peepers on that shop out there looking good brother!!! Can’t wait to see it
GOOD JOB T RAY!
Definitely need a shop update we all spy it on the background its looking great, truck also sounds like a beast cant wait to see more
Awesome job I’m with you holly is the only way to go ford or Chevy they are amazing the shop up already that was fast
🔥 top tier ls powered c10
You need to put a $20 7" ebay fan on that trans cooler at the Least! (see my cooler post on another vid) WOT puts 5x the heat into an auto trans and I'm sure you have some stall on that. IDK if you have lock-up still but if not your gonna overheat that trans real quick! Heats kills an auto trans. Put a Temp gauge on it and google "auto trans life expectancy".
This will be one hell of a daily!
Awesome build.
Thanks for sharing!
Looks like the shed is coming together quite nicely
I see that shop in the back! Looks massive.
These titles have that early 2000s uploaded straight to RUclips from my flip phone vibe.
Support comment from Guam 🇬🇺
Can’t wait to see the shop
Hell yeah Taylor!
If you don't move cars for longer than 2 weeks, consider putting a maintenance charger on it that keeps it around 13.4 V or so.
That way lead acid batteries will stay alive WAY longer.
Up north you’re better off taking it inside if its winter. Most people run pristine engine compartments and clean everything yet they have the most jank battery setup rigged like a crackhead installed it. I’m building lithium batteries now - I hate lead acids
Got a sweet twin turbo build on my daily with nelson 72/68 symetrical gen2 turbos
Huge liquid to air bosch 2200cc inj
On flex thru stock ecu
Hydraboost
Rewired engine wiring and harnesses lengthened to fit
Relocated heater and ac pipes
Van ps pump and remote resevoir
Full 3in custom exhaust
The turbos are eng oil fed ball bearing and liquid cooled
5.3 ls w 228 230 cam
I have a boost ready 6.0 on a stand for later with same cam
Its an 04 silverado ext cab 4x4 with 4/5 drop
Coilover conversion in front with 2in drop spindle
3000 stall converter
Just need few hrs to install turbos make short downpipe and tune
Everything but the turbos is done
Street monster is what you should call this build. I’m so excited for you T Ray. It’s sounds crazy
i like gump because it is forrest green
This truck makes me want to build a single cab every time I see it
Hell yay congratulations. So awesome to see this getting done. Side for the love God plz take that old 3 tag off the side of the truck lol
Sweet build Taylor! Also, what's the progress on the shop it looks huge in the background! 👀
Sounds Pissed off, love it 🤘
I ran my trans cooler lines over the trans and up the driver side to keep them away from the exhaust and downpipe
That truck sounds good keep it up.
I’m the first guy when it comes to new motor builds. Was taught that way and I was able to see first hand what happens when you have a new motor “warm” and hitting the limiter. The piston grew faster than the cylinder and exploded then threw the rod out of the side of the block.
That literally doesn’t happen.. Your ring gap was too tight / I’m 51, grew up building ToP fuel and too alcohol dragsters with my dad, then went on to become an Audi tech, and have worked in the aftermarket building engines for 20+ years; 35 years if you count the dragsters as a kid.. I’ve personally built over 100 engines. You screwed up the ring gap
@@ButtKickersReviews I didn’t build the motor for 1. And 2 it was an air cooled motorcycle. The cylinders and pistons are a bit different than alcohol engines. I went out to tell the guy to stop reving it and it exploded. You could see where the piston skirts were grinding the cylinders and there was still a chuck of the piston welded to the cylinder. But I guess that doesn’t happen.
Been waiting forever to hear this thing congrats man
Great work Taylor, very excited to see this ripping!
Love this build. My one question is why would you not turn the cooler around to have the lines facing the engine? Wouldn't that be easier with a almost straight shot in and out?
I think it's something to do with longer length lines allowing some heat to dissipate before it even gets to the cooler, and allows for more fluid in the system as well. I could be wrong though so don't take it as the gospel truth 😂
Woohh super excited for this build
Wow it fired up quick!
Im so close to this stage with my build.
This is so motivating 😍
Chrissy’s new daily!😉😂
your garage reveal is gonna be insane i know it
Need to come to DFW and give these boys a run for there money
I’ve put together a couple I break it in warm it up start rippin.
Oh hell yeah, I feel like I was there for the first start. so much awesome in one video, awesome job Taylor!
That is such a cool cam lope
Get the Map in there and it’ll idle. Needs it for smoothing the VE table
I ran my trans coolers where the spare tire was. I have 2 large coolers/fans and have zero trans cooling issues. Plus puts weight in the rear where these trucks need it.
I spy a huge shop in the background!
Keep the paint as is for sleeper vibes
It sounds so mean! Love the build, Taylor!
"Driven" brand breakin oil is definitely the thing to use.
Atta frigg'in boy champ! Nothing better than that first build startup!! Hell yeah, stoked for you & to see it continue, hard work pays fellas, beast! Time for some dyno time. Be safe. Salute
Yep shop is going to be huge...ok back to the trans lines...
Yessir, can't wait to get my Camaro done!
Muuy bueno Taylor! Nice ride you built congratss
👍👍exhaust note sounds great.,
Gotta love a dead battery so hyped for you man this thing is sick
Magnetic drink cooler spotted. I need one
Sounds just like mine, awesome job!!
I always used high zinc oil for break in
This is my favorite street build on RUclips rite now. This trucks gonna be a beast to drive. Great job 👏
from what I've seen, changing the oil pretty soon after its first start is important
Depends if you have a filter bypass or not.
it is for sure the rule of thumb is first start let it get to operating temp then rev under load to 2-4 k for about 5-10 mins then kill the engine and change oil and filter inspect for any metal shavings then replace oil with high zync oil for the first 200-500 miles for break in
yooooooooo the shop in the backgrounddddddd
cant wait to listen to some driving videos, sounds so good!!
I bought that battery the day before I drove up to Matt Happel’s place and put the truck on the dyno. They was a 48 dollar Walmart battery and it lasted
Did I see a sneak peek of the new shop?!? Can’t wait to see it finished🤙
Break in is definitely not super critical and you're pretty unlikely to mess it up. The main purpose is to seta the ring which requires cylinder pressure, and cylinder vacuum, (think engine breaking) to put pressure on both side of the rings. Some medium acceleration and then engine breaking is probably your best bet. And it is definitely completed after an hour or two of run time.
Sounds like a Beast , great job
There's a set screw on the passenger side of the throttle body. Adjust that to get your IAC value between 5-8% (I think that's the value you're shooting for). Do that when the motors up to temp an it should take care of your idle issue..
Been waiting for this video for a while now lol congratulations
This channel wouldn't be the same if you didn't know how to weld. It's literally my favorite part.