I'm working on my first turbo LS. Realized I could make more power while not having to change my converter and rear gear for a big cam. I'm just going to claim it's a Richard Holdener build since it's all based off his videos haha
@@richardholdener1727 What would be the best cam and turbo for a 2005 Escalade 6.0. It’s a daily driver. Id like low end torque and for it to be as reliable as possible.
@@tylernowlin721your better off using the truck Norris cam or the chopacabra cam both are perfect abit of gains but still have reliable and keep a daily
This is what I have thrown together so far.. Maxpeeding GT45 turbo kit Includes - GT45 turbo, 44mm wastegate (14 psi internal), 50mm blow off valve, 80 lb injectors, 450 LPH fuel pump, intercooler with piping, turbo oil feed/return - $713 BTR stage 2 turbo cam kit includes - 220/23x .618/.618 113 LSA 3 bolt camshaft, BTR platinum .660 dual spring kit with titanium retainers, valve seals, and 7.400" chromoly pushrods - $837 LS7 Lifters - $235 High Volume Melling oil pump - $193 FP T4 Log Manifold - $200 Around 2200 for all the main components. Found a 2005 chevy silverado with the 4.8 with only 54k miles I am going to turn into my fun street truck, I hope I did okay, this is my first turbo build I have attempted to wish me luck. I really appreciate your videos.
Making power these days sure are easy with an LS and a turbo lol 😆 now only if there was a cheaper option for a manual transmission that could handle that power!
Cd009 😉 *still may not be cheap enough for some but sometimes can pick them up ~300 plus the adapter and flywheel/clutch, still gets expensive to start out but cheaper after*
Manual transmission? What is this 1936 The hydramatics are so much better today. Just go get a wrecked car and take out the transmission You know people are totaling their SUVs and leaving those nice transmissions there, right?
It would be cool if you did a namebrand vs offbrand turbo testing. Specifically the bigger single turbo clones to show when they max out vs the name brand stuff like 85mm and larger. the buggest s400s up to the gt55 stuff
Saw a 460 Turbo with a stock bottom end recently on youtube. They recommended not exceeding 7.5lbs of boost but still created a ton of power, around 450hp and 670ft-lbs at 3500-3800rpm.
I think you are talking about John Virgel. I have a 1993 ford f250 7.5l that I will be trying to replicate what John has done with his truck. The stock 460 pistons are the limiting factor. Otherwise, the 460 is a beast with boost!
@@brockstarg2296 I did see John’s stuff and he attributed his weaker bottom end with improper ring gap that led to his early catastrophic piston failure. I do love his project though. I recently saw 385 and FE junkyard engines going for 75$ Canadian. Junkyard LS engines around my area will run you 1500-2k dressed w/o transmission so these vintage high displacement engines are super interesting to get your junk on the road.
@Dakota Roberts Down here in Colorado, the FE engines have gotten expensive for 390s. 352s and 360s are cheap, but they are pretty lethargic. On the other hand, 385 series engines, are cheap and easy to find in both 429 and 460cu displacements.
One thing I'd like to add is that although a low lsa will chop and make better mid end power numbers on a na motor, they usually depend on exhaust scavenging to accomplish this, by adding a turbo, you lose that power, and end up with less power than a high lsa cam, so I would say don't go for a chop cam, but rather a lift cam, with good intake duration, but minimal overlap, like a high lift stage 2 regular cam, or a stage 1 turbo cam.
According to endless back to back testing-The cams do the same thing na and boosted-headers help scavenge with any cam, but the cam still works with stock manifolds
I still want to build an FE. 4.11bore 4.02 stroke. Crossbolted mains the center 3 with dowels around the studs and fill the block to the bottom of the core plugs. Iron heads with 2.23 intake valves and 1.63 intakes and FT Rams horn exhaust manifolds, 4 inch diameter pipes forwards to fit 2 GT3582s. A FITECH with individual intercoolers in the headlight buckets, and 4 inch exhaust out. .
Going to get a factory y-pipe from a 93 caprice to bolt up to my factory duals to run a remote turbo on 95 impala. Brother is electrician so I’m going to volunteer him to bend some pipe for the oil.
I'd love to see this cam and turbo setup on a LS3. The 6.2L of a stock LS3, with it's great flowing factory intake and heads, would be ideal for a turbo setup this size. I can imagine massive hp and tq gains!!
I'm going to do a 4.8 turbo build start-to-finish very long video very in-depth so people understand, I'm going to do a cheap eBay gt45, I'm going to explain what I'm doing and why I'm doing it,
I'm building a 5.8 from a Econoline to put in my Foxbody. Basically this thing is being built out of junkyard parts. So the turbo is going to be a helpful addition with it being a truck motor. Yes I am going to swap the heads too. But I'm not sure if I'll do turbo because I'm doing carb.
I'm looking into it now for my 302. Snag a 750dp holley without the choke horn. Epoxy the brass plugs, nitrophyl floats, boost power valve etc. The only thing i haven't decided on is how to control timing. The 6al2 is a good option but it pulls, doesn't add. Another thing is where to start with jetting and all that. No clue yet lol
Mr. Holdener I hope all is well with you and yours. I'm hoping more folk have asked but I'd love to see twin gt35's on stock cammed junkyard style ls'. I think I'd like to go that route on my 95s10. I've seen the twin vs single video and I understand the curves should be similar. I'd just love to see 8t in action before I take the dive
@richardholdener1727 lol! 8t=it. It was a typo. It happens a lot on my phone. I know boost works with any cam. I am on a budget and I would love to make 500whp with no more than 10lbs of boost on pump gas. It will be a budget street car(95 s10). I want a fun driving reliable vehicle. I'm on disability. I want this to be a one and done type deal. If I really want more in the future, I'll add an aftermarket cam but staying in that 10lbs boost range. Sorry to be so long winded. Lol
I’ve been getting mixed information about what size ring gap is ideal for boosted application. How much ring gap do you run on your motors? Top ring, and bottom ring.
Richard, can you get into harnesses and all that stuff? I don't really want to spend a ton but I'm converting my 71 C10 from a 355 sbc and turbo 400 to a turbo 5.3 and 4l80. My motor is a Drive by wire motor that came from a 4l60 truck.. I've seen 4l60 to 4l80 harnesses, and I've also seen 4l80/5.3 dedicated harnesses... but everyone keeps telling me I need to spend 2k on a holley terminator X max... Whats your thoughts? I'm on a tighter budget than I wanted to start this project but I can spend some money, I just don't really wanna blow 2k alone on the harness. I've got the stock pcm, harness, fuse box and motor.. I think i just need a DBW pedal and throttle box, or I need to convert it to drive by cable to use my stock 71 c10 pedal.. What're your thoughts? It's gonna be a low boost cruiser build.. 8-12lbs max on the ebay gt45, or maybe a better brand of turbo if I can find one cheap and used on marketplace. Thanks!
That very interesting 700+ on a 4.8 with smallish Turbo and you only pumping 11lbs is perfect for a street car but on a T6 do you think there's more there on a T4 especially with spooling? its Good having 1000+ but where are you going to use it that HP is still good for an off street drag racing low 10sec pass and it is reliable
@@nocturnalspecialties642 that’s it, just a map sensor they can read positive pressure. I don’t have to seal or cap any lines or anything, what about the brake booster and vacuum points?
I want to add a single turbo to my hemi just so it's turbo. Don't really care for max power gains can I turbo just one side of the exhaust on a V8 or do you have to cross both what are cheap options for safe power would love some advice
I put a 6.0 LQ4 in my 08 Silverado. Would small turbo work well just for normal driving in otherwise stock configuration? How would it do on gas mileage with just normal driving?
So what kind of setup would you recommend for a 6 liter? Lq9 or lq4? What kind of turbo, cam, valvesprings, etc.? I'm wanting to get around 800 whp but it will be somewhat of a Sunday driver kinda thing so I'll be driving it on weekends a day such.
@@richardholdener1727 thanks. I fitted btr but they leak around the notches. Obviously the wrong btr gaskets. Do you have part numbers to which gaskets you would use with the notched heads
On my setup, I started with a ts45 . It would boost creap when I started out and was afraid to run higher boost . I changed to a ts60 and now have full control whether I run on the 9 psi gate spring or tune the controller to command 18lbs. Big gate for the win ! Blowoff valve is a luxury and makes cool sounds , but not absolutely nessasary to even have . Some even think a blowoff valve is counterproductive . Stick shift builds are harder to keep in boost w a blowoff valve and I'm suspect of the idea the leftover boost pressure in the intake pipe has any damaging effect on the turbo . Its not like the turbo is still trying to build boost once you close the throttle . Its just a split second of pressure that finds a way to bleed down pretty quickly . The turbo doesn't have anything driving it once the blades close so its not banging against the blades for long at all and immediately begins to equalize.
Are you willing to answer questions? Do you have a email or anything for discussion? If not totally understandable you give great information and I love watching your videos!!!!
@@richardholdener1727 I have a 2006 Escalade with the 6.0 in it. Iv decided to not go with the turbo as it’s going to be a daily driver. I want the cam that puts out the most power but still has a good idle quality . Also with the the thousands of hours or research that uv done what are the best supporting mods with the cam you chose. Headers , throttle body, valve springs , pulley kit, electric fan etc. keep in mind that I don’t want to do a stall. Thanks 🙏
Here’s one I got a stage 4 btr cam non turbo with springs can I turbo with that cam or no ? I wasnt going to turbo but now I’m leaning that way lol it’s a lq4 by the way
I got the junkyard 5.3 for $100. Sloppy stage 2 cam. Springs. Gapped new rings. Arp rod bolts. Arp head bolts. 862 heads. Holley dual plane. Holley terminator x max stealth. Rebuilt 4l80 with circle d convert. Just picked up vs racing turbo kit. What is a safe boost level where I don’t have to worry about blowing this up?
Hey there sir Richard new sub from Oz with the hp figures u show that's at the crank right so eg 400 at the motor would be 300 at the wheels thru the trans ? Curious to know
Got a stock 5.3 that I've fitted twin Vs racing 67mm turbos , intake , forward facing exhaust manifolds. Want to put a cam in it. Which cam and springs would you suggest and would I need to change the lifters and pushrods?
Works for any motor. Hmmmm. I'm amazed that these LS engines can handle so much. I've seen people making 1000 hp on stock bottom end 5.3's and racing with it. What are the innards for these freaks of engineering made of? Cast? Forged?
I’m embarrassed Richard, all this time I’ve owned a turbo foxbody I have always had problems such as boost, vacuum, exhaust leaks. I’ve tried my best to find and correct them but they are always there. Somehow last season my 7875 wouldn’t see positive boost on the 351, holley screen until mid 5k rpm. At that point it is almost worthless for a street car. I don’t know if I have a new leak I couldn’t find, but I believe the boost would come on just a touch earlier before 😔
Can you hear it spooling? If not, it's probably an exhaust leak. If you hear it spooling, then it might be a boost leak. Try to get a turbo inlet adapter to pressurize the system with an air compressor. Fill it slowly and listen for leaks. Don't over pressure it! 20lbs is more than enough to find any leaks. Hope this helps, and best of luck!
@@brockstarg2296 thanks man. I was looking at making or buying an affordable tester that fits on the compressor front. I didn’t know if it would work as I have an open pcv on my intake manifold. I don’t currently have a compressor but I have a m12 tire inflator and battery if that would work. Every test I saw on RUclips they stayed under 15lbs trying to check. I’m sure I have a leak somewhere but I haven’t been able to find the main ones. Last season I believe I could hear the turbo spool and I don’t have the put put put sound of the exhaust leak at the manifolds. Thanks
@Tim Web I am somewhat new to boost, but wouldn't the open PCV on the intake be a leak? Most setups have the pcv routed into a catch can, then the atmosphere, bypassing the intake.
@@DWBmotorsports nope......no one said you can't boost the bigger engine. A bigger engine matched to a turbo that will move the air will crush a similarly built smaller boosted engine . That saying does sound good in F&F type movies though, lol.
Opinions on a cheaper turbo? Have they been generally good or not worth it in the long run. I cant justify 2k for a turbo rn I'm building a ported 13b, 1.0+ Ar hotside at a min. 350 hp max goal
This is awesome power but what about the tuning side of things. I've always been a carburetor guy and don't know anything about tuning. Does the holly take care of most of it?
Hey Richard, Richard here. I made 541hp/550tq on 10psi with a t4 s475, LC9 with 706 heads (10.5:1 cr). Ss2 with pac 1219 springs I don’t have any boost until 3300+rpm and this is in a manual c4 corvette. I would be happy (maybe) with around 650-700whp. Do you have a recommendation on a smaller turbo to get me around 650-700whp with better spool up or should I run it and turn up the boost?
@@richardholdener1727 yes this is pump 93 and the local tuner was pretty conservative at the time because I didn’t have a fuel pressure sensor OR boost reverence regulator. I now have those and on the same tune, trying to get time on the dyno to get some better numbers
The “Boost Math” isn’t matching up. 415 hp NA 9.3# /14.7= .632: multiplier 1.632 415 x 1.632= 677 Hp not 622 hp 🤔🤔🤔 11# /14.7= .748: multiplier 1.748 415 x 1.748= 725 Hp vs 670 hp 🤔🤔🤔 Etc etc where’s the power loss?
There is always a loss of efficiency in the equation. You may be reaching the limits of head flow, valve and chamber geometry, fuel system or ignition limitation, or plain old thermal inefficiency due to a poorly cooled charge. Running on pump fuel will also often necessitate running far lower timing than optimal. All that said, 670hp is a lot better than 415 wouldn't you agree?!
If it’s a junk yard not touched at all leave them . If you spent any money on it not a bad upgrade cheap and easy to do . And when the motor blows up tend to be good for the next one .
Just freshened up an Lq4 for my project and gapped the rings to .029 top and bottom, tossing twin eBay gt45’s on for now, with 100Lb holley injectors, and 100gph holley pump, do you think it will be capable of 1000whp? I’m assuming it will hit that at the crank without too much issue. Would love to say I can turn it up to that at the wheels from time to time.
Richard, I just did my first LS swap and I have put 2600 miles on it. I am running a factory tune. I dont think you mentioned if you adjusted any sort of a tune for this video? or was it all on the factory 4.8 tune?
Well Richard we need the approximate cost of this so-called first time turbo build. I think the big-ticket item is the Holley HP management system required to make everything safe and user-friendly. I know it is hard to price out the hot side but wastegates blow off valves ,injectors and sensers adds quite a bit to the cost. Without looking everything up I'm guessing $7,500 minimum?
Things sure add up quick sir. I have the Holley hp and they seem to raise the price every year. It comes with a few pressure sensors and you want the NTK O2 sensor for boosted applications over the Bosch which is inferior. Lowdoller motor sports has sensors a little cheaper than the SSI Holley sensors that used to be $100 each. Did you write down the prices or bare bones kits like cx racing or parts needs from VS.
Termi x 1300$ “denmah package”1200$ 450 walby 100$ 6an evil energy fuel line and pny regulator 100$ deka 80’s 400$ exhaust bends piping 300$. For engine new head bolts or head studs depending on your camp and mls hg’s 100$ or 400$ Gap the rings no cost. 200$ miscellaneous ss2 250$ pac1218’s 210$
Gm has a wonderful stock engine management system. A lot of time and money invested and you’d be surprised what you can do with a stock gm ls computer.
Hello everyone, I picked up a junkyard gen 3 5.3ls engine, and I'm fully rebuilding it with some goodies, I purchased few parts like: " Mahle 5.3 flat top forged pistons, " gen 4 rods, " 862 heads, " .625 max lift springs, " FAST LSXR 102mm Intake, and some other stuff. Whereas I'm stuck on what camshaft and lifters I should choose My goal is to make as much HP N/A as possible. The options for the camshaft that I have are : 1) "COMP Cams 54-602-11 Big Mutha' Thumpr" 2) "Comp Cams 54-703-11 Stage 2 Thumpr Cam" 3) "Competition Cams 54-408-11 XFI RPM" 4) "GM Performance Parts Camshaft, LS6 Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller, Lift 0.550/0.550" These are the cams and only these I can get for free from a friend, the question is which one would allow me to make the most HP. Thank You everyone for reading
Turbos aren't expensive. Transmission will be about 6k to 12k, tires and wheels are another 6k,all of the other parts that go with a turbo combo aren't cheap.
2k in my 4l80 1 k Ryan Jan’s converter .1800 qp 9” and axels 400$ center off fb.600$ jet stars 300$ slicks offer up . Over 100 hits and 600 road miles . Your prices are for all top end stuff and a little ridiculous for 90% of people .
I think your cheap junkyard turbo motor and my cheap junkyard turbo motor have two different meanings. By the title I expected to see a stock junkyard motor with an inexpensive turbo, kinda like a guy would test the waters with his first time. You may or may not get all that stuff cheap but I guarantee theres some serious cash for an average guy to do what you showed there.
The constant worry about a 20 hp loss below 3500 rpm is deranged. Who is driving at WOT at 2000 rpm? This combo is not over cammed or turboed. It is under injected and should be wound out to at least 7500 rpm.
A bunch of us tow with turbo LS engines. Being able to hold lockup in 4th gear makes a difference. No point in having to spin engine 3500+ rpms when chugging along at 2000 rpms with a small cam and the right turbo gets very good mileage.
So say you going to run a lite car on a 10.5 tire or smaller say a vega in about 2200 to 2700 pound car so if I'm thinking right so you don't blow the tire at the hit would that work I know a dyno ain't real world testing also shooting for 800 hp out of the motor would that work
@@richardholdener1727 thanks man I'm just now trying to learn turbo stuff it new to me so but willing to learn but I want to do it on the cheap so I? Watching all the videos I can find of your stuff
Richard always knows what I was just shopping for.
Right...😂
Haha, I hear that!
😂
I'm working on my first turbo LS. Realized I could make more power while not having to change my converter and rear gear for a big cam. I'm just going to claim it's a Richard Holdener build since it's all based off his videos haha
sssshhh...don't tell anyone
@@richardholdener1727
What would be the best cam and turbo for a 2005 Escalade 6.0. It’s a daily driver. Id like low end torque and for it to be as reliable as possible.
Same. Going more for less money is a win for me. I'm even going to cheat and put it in the bed of my truck lol
@@tylernowlin721truck Norris
@@tylernowlin721your better off using the truck Norris cam or the chopacabra cam both are perfect abit of gains but still have reliable and keep a daily
This is what I have thrown together so far.. Maxpeeding GT45 turbo kit Includes - GT45 turbo, 44mm wastegate (14 psi internal), 50mm blow off valve, 80 lb injectors, 450 LPH fuel pump, intercooler with piping, turbo oil feed/return - $713
BTR stage 2 turbo cam kit includes - 220/23x .618/.618 113 LSA 3 bolt camshaft, BTR platinum .660 dual spring kit with titanium retainers, valve seals, and 7.400" chromoly pushrods - $837
LS7 Lifters - $235
High Volume Melling oil pump - $193
FP T4 Log Manifold - $200
Around 2200 for all the main components. Found a 2005 chevy silverado with the 4.8 with only 54k miles I am going to turn into my fun street truck, I hope I did okay, this is my first turbo build I have attempted to wish me luck. I really appreciate your videos.
good luck-but I would start with lower than 14 psi of boost
Making power these days sure are easy with an LS and a turbo lol 😆 now only if there was a cheaper option for a manual transmission that could handle that power!
Cd009 😉
*still may not be cheap enough for some but sometimes can pick them up ~300 plus the adapter and flywheel/clutch, still gets expensive to start out but cheaper after*
@@bleach_drink_me you forgot to mention you have to cut the bell housing off
@@ClumsyCars thanks! I did forget to mention that.
@@bleach_drink_me I looked into using that trans myself lol
Manual transmission? What is this 1936
The hydramatics are so much better today. Just go get a wrecked car and take out the transmission
You know people are totaling their SUVs and leaving those nice transmissions there, right?
It would be cool if you did a namebrand vs offbrand turbo testing. Specifically the bigger single turbo clones to show when they max out vs the name brand stuff like 85mm and larger. the buggest s400s up to the gt55 stuff
Saw a 460 Turbo with a stock bottom end recently on youtube. They recommended not exceeding 7.5lbs of boost but still created a ton of power, around 450hp and 670ft-lbs at 3500-3800rpm.
I think you are talking about John Virgel. I have a 1993 ford f250 7.5l that I will be trying to replicate what John has done with his truck. The stock 460 pistons are the limiting factor. Otherwise, the 460 is a beast with boost!
@@brockstarg2296 ruclips.net/video/I6AsPcTNes8/видео.html
@@brockstarg2296 I did see John’s stuff and he attributed his weaker bottom end with improper ring gap that led to his early catastrophic piston failure. I do love his project though. I recently saw 385 and FE junkyard engines going for 75$ Canadian. Junkyard LS engines around my area will run you 1500-2k dressed w/o transmission so these vintage high displacement engines are super interesting to get your junk on the road.
@Dakota Roberts Down here in Colorado, the FE engines have gotten expensive for 390s. 352s and 360s are cheap, but they are pretty lethargic. On the other hand, 385 series engines, are cheap and easy to find in both 429 and 460cu displacements.
One thing I'd like to add is that although a low lsa will chop and make better mid end power numbers on a na motor, they usually depend on exhaust scavenging to accomplish this, by adding a turbo, you lose that power, and end up with less power than a high lsa cam, so I would say don't go for a chop cam, but rather a lift cam, with good intake duration, but minimal overlap, like a high lift stage 2 regular cam, or a stage 1 turbo cam.
According to endless back to back testing-The cams do the same thing na and boosted-headers help scavenge with any cam, but the cam still works with stock manifolds
Forgive him as he has not seen your videos@@richardholdener1727
Would love to see more on blow thru carb stuff and setting that up
I still want to build an FE. 4.11bore 4.02 stroke. Crossbolted mains the center 3 with dowels around the studs and fill the block to the bottom of the core plugs. Iron heads with 2.23 intake valves and 1.63 intakes and FT Rams horn exhaust manifolds, 4 inch diameter pipes forwards to fit 2 GT3582s. A FITECH with individual intercoolers in the headlight buckets, and 4 inch exhaust out. .
I have this cam in a 4.8 also.@23 pounds it was about 750 to the wheels dictated by time slips..Decent driveabilty
First timer here!!
Going to get a factory y-pipe from a 93 caprice to bolt up to my factory duals to run a remote turbo on 95 impala. Brother is electrician so I’m going to volunteer him to bend some pipe for the oil.
Somewhere, someone has managed to cram all that plumbing into a C3 with a 6.0L LS engine and a stock hood. I'd like to see it! 😎🤘
Baaaaahahah😂😂😂 3:08 “ we ran this down to 2000 RPM so all the low rpm guys should be happy😑😑😑” lololololol I’m dying
I'd love to see this cam and turbo setup on a LS3. The 6.2L of a stock LS3, with it's great flowing factory intake and heads, would be ideal for a turbo setup this size. I can imagine massive hp and tq gains!!
I have turbo LS3 vids up
Lol good thing I watched this video I was about to buy forged rods and pistons thinking it was a must.
Great Episode Richard! Thank you.
Thanks Richard, great for us turbo newbies!
Would you do a video on Magnum V8. All the tips and tricks. Plus a big turbo set and Dyno. See how close you could get to a grand.
I have a few 360 magnum vids up-more coming
@@richardholdener1727 Thank you very much really enjoy watching your videos. Keep them coming and be blessed.
I'm going to do a 4.8 turbo build start-to-finish very long video very in-depth so people understand, I'm going to do a cheap eBay gt45, I'm going to explain what I'm doing and why I'm doing it,
I'm building a 5.8 from a Econoline to put in my Foxbody. Basically this thing is being built out of junkyard parts. So the turbo is going to be a helpful addition with it being a truck motor.
Yes I am going to swap the heads too.
But I'm not sure if I'll do turbo because I'm doing carb.
you can boost the right carb
I'm looking into it now for my 302. Snag a 750dp holley without the choke horn. Epoxy the brass plugs, nitrophyl floats, boost power valve etc. The only thing i haven't decided on is how to control timing. The 6al2 is a good option but it pulls, doesn't add. Another thing is where to start with jetting and all that. No clue yet lol
I hear you talk about ringap. I was wondering if you can explain how much ring gap and exactly how to you figure that out
for boost we run .0065 per 1 inch of bore
The summit 8720 cam will out shine that btr cam all across the board price and power
Wow impressive.
How much ring gap is needed for turbo applications?
How much boost can you actually throw into a stock ring gapped engine?
we made 1543 hp at 29 psi with a stock junkyard bottom end 6.0L with ring gap (gap should be .0065 per 1 inch of bore)
Mr. Holdener I hope all is well with you and yours. I'm hoping more folk have asked but I'd love to see twin gt35's on stock cammed junkyard style ls'. I think I'd like to go that route on my 95s10. I've seen the twin vs single video and I understand the curves should be similar. I'd just love to see 8t in action before I take the dive
what is 8t? and boost works on any cam
@richardholdener1727 lol! 8t=it. It was a typo. It happens a lot on my phone. I know boost works with any cam. I am on a budget and I would love to make 500whp with no more than 10lbs of boost on pump gas. It will be a budget street car(95 s10). I want a fun driving reliable vehicle. I'm on disability. I want this to be a one and done type deal. If I really want more in the future, I'll add an aftermarket cam but staying in that 10lbs boost range. Sorry to be so long winded. Lol
Do you have a go to for timing vs boost on these LS engines? And, what AFR's do you run it at?
11.0-11.5 af and 20 degrees at hp peak with good intercooler and e85 is safe
Pls and what about on 94 octane pump gas??
I’ve been getting mixed information about what size ring gap is ideal for boosted application. How much ring gap do you run on your motors? Top ring, and bottom ring.
.0065 per 1 inch of bore for both
@ thank you very much!
How many RPMs will the stock 6 l connecting rods handle safely
we run the 5.3L (same rods) to 7700 rpm (we have 500+ dyno pulls on it)
@@richardholdener1727 thanks 👍
Cam and valve springs are like a peanut butter and jelly sandwich it just works😂
what do i need to turbo my 2015 silverado 4.3L ecotec3?
Richard, can you get into harnesses and all that stuff? I don't really want to spend a ton but I'm converting my 71 C10 from a 355 sbc and turbo 400 to a turbo 5.3 and 4l80. My motor is a Drive by wire motor that came from a 4l60 truck.. I've seen 4l60 to 4l80 harnesses, and I've also seen 4l80/5.3 dedicated harnesses... but everyone keeps telling me I need to spend 2k on a holley terminator X max... Whats your thoughts? I'm on a tighter budget than I wanted to start this project but I can spend some money, I just don't really wanna blow 2k alone on the harness. I've got the stock pcm, harness, fuse box and motor.. I think i just need a DBW pedal and throttle box, or I need to convert it to drive by cable to use my stock 71 c10 pedal.. What're your thoughts? It's gonna be a low boost cruiser build.. 8-12lbs max on the ebay gt45, or maybe a better brand of turbo if I can find one cheap and used on marketplace. Thanks!
I don't get into swaps and harnesses-only the power part
Any suggestions on a daily driver 2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic 4.8?
My Low Buck Truck
This is awesome man
Hmmm wonder what happens if I add a cheapo Chinese war whistle to my already built 500hp 6.0 LQ9 ?!
boost just multiples what is there
That very interesting 700+ on a 4.8 with smallish Turbo and you only pumping 11lbs is perfect for a street car but on a T6 do you think there's more there on a T4 especially with spooling? its Good having 1000+ but where are you going to use it that HP is still good for an off street drag racing low 10sec pass and it is reliable
a t4 will spool quicker
I have to ask what do you need todo to the intake manifold and sensors for the ecm to run boost!?!?!
Just need a MAP sensor that can read boost and start tuning.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 that’s it, just a map sensor they can read positive pressure. I don’t have to seal or cap any lines or anything, what about the brake booster and vacuum points?
@@ajjskins all the ports have to either be used or capped off.
The ZR1 corvette map sensor is popular to use. It's a 2.5 or 3 bar sensor.
I know how one could run without all the other accessories, but how would a car get power without an alternator?
for a single drag strip run, the fully charged battery would suffice
Can the stock rods/pistons reliably handle that much power?
At what point do you need forged parts?
we've done 1500+ hp with SBE
I want to add a single turbo to my hemi just so it's turbo. Don't really care for max power gains can I turbo just one side of the exhaust on a V8 or do you have to cross both what are cheap options for safe power would love some advice
running a small turbo off 1 side can be done, but it doesn't work as well
Any work to the heads or as cast?
What ring gap you used thank you
.028
Ok thank you. If you can make a vid on figuring gaps when doing turbo builds. Unless you made one already thanks
gap video is up-the rule is .0065 per inch of bore
Was it stock bottom and with no piston ring gaps for boost?
you need gap
I put a 6.0 LQ4 in my 08 Silverado. Would small turbo work well just for normal driving in otherwise stock configuration? How would it do on gas mileage with just normal driving?
the turbo would not be doing anything under cruise conditions-same mileage
Same cam in my 5.3
So what kind of setup would you recommend for a 6 liter? Lq9 or lq4? What kind of turbo, cam, valvesprings, etc.? I'm wanting to get around 800 whp but it will be somewhat of a Sunday driver kinda thing so I'll be driving it on weekends a day such.
s475 turbo and any cam and springs
@richardholdener1727 ok how about a stage 3 turbo cam? Not sure if Texas speed makes them or not
@@FriesenHQthe btr stage 3 turbo cam would work great, that's what I'm running
Which head gaskets would you recommend to use on a 5.3 with 862 heads with the notches in?
we use Fel pro or LS9 factory gaskets-or BTR has some bore-specific gaskets
@@richardholdener1727 thanks. I fitted btr but they leak around the notches. Obviously the wrong btr gaskets. Do you have part numbers to which gaskets you would use with the notched heads
@@richardholdener1727 will the fel pro gaskets be ok with boost? Will be running max 1 bar of boost.
How would you go about putting a turbo on a 4.0 inline 6 88 xj
same as any other motor
How do you pick waste gate and BOV sizing?
if single WG, then use a 60
On my setup, I started with a ts45 . It would boost creap when I started out and was afraid to run higher boost . I changed to a ts60 and now have full control whether I run on the 9 psi gate spring or tune the controller to command 18lbs. Big gate for the win ! Blowoff valve is a luxury and makes cool sounds , but not absolutely nessasary to even have . Some even think a blowoff valve is counterproductive . Stick shift builds are harder to keep in boost w a blowoff valve and I'm suspect of the idea the leftover boost pressure in the intake pipe has any damaging effect on the turbo . Its not like the turbo is still trying to build boost once you close the throttle . Its just a split second of pressure that finds a way to bleed down pretty quickly . The turbo doesn't have anything driving it once the blades close so its not banging against the blades for long at all and immediately begins to equalize.
Stock pushrods?
It’s me again what size injectors will I need with the two turbos on the 6.2 Ls an what blow off valve you suggest for say 800 to 1000 hp
80 POUND INJ (ON GAS), BIGGER IF E85 AND WE USE TS BOV
@@richardholdener1727 thanks for your input appreciate your time thank you
How does having two 500 hp turbos mounted up vs the thumper?
same
Richard what ra number do you like seeing for surface finish? I have a profilometer and want to know, what do you like to see ?
Ask him in the chat of a live session. He'll answer
Are you willing to answer questions? Do you have a email or anything for discussion? If not totally understandable you give great information and I love watching your videos!!!!
ask away-or come to the live feed Q&A nightly at 7 PM PST
What would be the best cam for a 2005 Escalade 6.0. Thinking of adding turbo also
need more data
@@richardholdener1727 I messaged you on instagram
@@richardholdener1727 I have a 2006 Escalade with the 6.0 in it. Iv decided to not go with the turbo as it’s going to be a daily driver. I want the cam that puts out the most power but still has a good idle quality . Also with the the thousands of hours or research that uv done what are the best supporting mods with the cam you chose. Headers , throttle body, valve springs , pulley kit, electric fan etc. keep in mind that I don’t want to do a stall. Thanks 🙏
Here’s one I got a stage 4 btr cam non turbo with springs can I turbo with that cam or no ? I wasnt going to turbo but now I’m leaning that way lol it’s a lq4 by the way
Can I run 8psi on an ls1 5.7L with a 4l60e stock bottom end but top end upgraded and would I need a transcooler
4l60e won't last long
4500 on the rolling anti-lag ✅ 🌶️🏎️🚀💥
Can you test ported stock intake manifold from a truck or ls3 compared to a fast intake
Dude, he done that already look up back issues
You should mention bring gap i didn't hear that on your last episode
He did and always does...You showing off?
I got the junkyard 5.3 for $100. Sloppy stage 2 cam. Springs. Gapped new rings. Arp rod bolts. Arp head bolts. 862 heads. Holley dual plane. Holley terminator x max stealth. Rebuilt 4l80 with circle d convert. Just picked up vs racing turbo kit. What is a safe boost level where I don’t have to worry about blowing this up?
ROD BOLTS?
@@richardholdener1727 I think that’s what they are called. Bolts for the connecting rods. Stock ones felt like they were going to break
@@theshark2804the main cap bolts?
@@justin_steen never touched the crank.
Hey there sir Richard new sub from Oz with the hp figures u show that's at the crank right so eg 400 at the motor would be 300 at the wheels thru the trans ? Curious to know
Yep-these are flywheel hp numbers tested on an engine dyno
@richardholdener1727 awesome thanks in advance for all the work you do and for the content love your work mate
Now you should definitely do one for nitrous 👽
Tuning is the only issue . How do you tune for a turbo?
make af 11.5:1 under boost and we ran 20 degrees of timing
Got a stock 5.3 that I've fitted twin Vs racing 67mm turbos , intake , forward facing exhaust manifolds. Want to put a cam in it. Which cam and springs would you suggest and would I need to change the lifters and pushrods?
truck norris and yes springs
Works for any motor. Hmmmm. I'm amazed that these LS engines can handle so much. I've seen people making 1000 hp on stock bottom end 5.3's and racing with it. What are the innards for these freaks of engineering made of? Cast? Forged?
Gen 4 are cast. 6 bolt mains.
I’m embarrassed Richard, all this time I’ve owned a turbo foxbody I have always had problems such as boost, vacuum, exhaust leaks. I’ve tried my best to find and correct them but they are always there. Somehow last season my 7875 wouldn’t see positive boost on the 351, holley screen until mid 5k rpm. At that point it is almost worthless for a street car. I don’t know if I have a new leak I couldn’t find, but I believe the boost would come on just a touch earlier before 😔
a 7875 should make plenty of boost before 5000 rpm on a 351
Can you hear it spooling? If not, it's probably an exhaust leak. If you hear it spooling, then it might be a boost leak. Try to get a turbo inlet adapter to pressurize the system with an air compressor. Fill it slowly and listen for leaks. Don't over pressure it! 20lbs is more than enough to find any leaks. Hope this helps, and best of luck!
@@brockstarg2296 thanks man. I was looking at making or buying an affordable tester that fits on the compressor front. I didn’t know if it would work as I have an open pcv on my intake manifold. I don’t currently have a compressor but I have a m12 tire inflator and battery if that would work. Every test I saw on RUclips they stayed under 15lbs trying to check. I’m sure I have a leak somewhere but I haven’t been able to find the main ones. Last season I believe I could hear the turbo spool and I don’t have the put put put sound of the exhaust leak at the manifolds. Thanks
@Tim Web I am somewhat new to boost, but wouldn't the open PCV on the intake be a leak? Most setups have the pcv routed into a catch can, then the atmosphere, bypassing the intake.
no replacement for displacement...
Yeah there is. And it’s called boost.
@@DWBmotorsports nope......no one said you can't boost the bigger engine. A bigger engine matched to a turbo that will move the air will crush a similarly built smaller boosted engine . That saying does sound good in F&F type movies though, lol.
Opinions on a cheaper turbo? Have they been generally good or not worth it in the long run. I cant justify 2k for a turbo rn
I'm building a ported 13b, 1.0+ Ar hotside at a min. 350 hp max goal
I have not had one fail
Can u use a thumper cam with a turbo
yes but why would you
@@richardholdener1727 it sounds so sick of a cam
This is awesome power but what about the tuning side of things. I've always been a carburetor guy and don't know anything about tuning. Does the holly take care of most of it?
I do that
Is it pretty easy to learn or will I be hostage to a tuner?
With a Holley ECU its very simple.
Just need a Safe Target AFR and a safe spark table setup b
Hey Richard, Richard here. I made 541hp/550tq on 10psi with a t4 s475, LC9 with 706 heads (10.5:1 cr). Ss2 with pac 1219 springs I don’t have any boost until 3300+rpm and this is in a manual c4 corvette. I would be happy (maybe) with around 650-700whp. Do you have a recommendation on a smaller turbo to get me around 650-700whp with better spool up or should I run it and turn up the boost?
why are you making more torque than hp with an SS2 cam-is this pump gas with no timing?
@@richardholdener1727 yes this is pump 93 and the local tuner was pretty conservative at the time because I didn’t have a fuel pressure sensor OR boost reverence regulator. I now have those and on the same tune, trying to get time on the dyno to get some better numbers
The “Boost Math” isn’t matching up. 415 hp NA
9.3# /14.7= .632: multiplier 1.632
415 x 1.632= 677 Hp not 622 hp 🤔🤔🤔
11# /14.7= .748: multiplier 1.748
415 x 1.748= 725 Hp vs 670 hp 🤔🤔🤔
Etc etc where’s the power loss?
Head flow and how much timing he was pulling in the curve. Probably had more in it.
low timing-to be safe
14.7 assumes ZERO efficiency loss and full timing. 15 -16 is more realistic in many situations.
I was thinking the samething headflow, how ya been?
There is always a loss of efficiency in the equation. You may be reaching the limits of head flow, valve and chamber geometry, fuel system or ignition limitation, or plain old thermal inefficiency due to a poorly cooled charge. Running on pump fuel will also often necessitate running far lower timing than optimal.
All that said, 670hp is a lot better than 415 wouldn't you agree?!
When is it recommended for the trunnion upgrades ? Thank you as always for your help 👏👏👏
I like them for high mileage rockers
If it’s a junk yard not touched at all leave them . If you spent any money on it not a bad upgrade cheap and easy to do . And when the motor blows up tend to be good for the next one .
Just freshened up an Lq4 for my project and gapped the rings to .029 top and bottom, tossing twin eBay gt45’s on for now, with 100Lb holley injectors, and 100gph holley pump, do you think it will be capable of 1000whp? I’m assuming it will hit that at the crank without too much issue. Would love to say I can turn it up to that at the wheels from time to time.
twin gt45s will support 1500 crank hp
That’s what we like to hear! Thanks for everything your doing for the community Richard!
Richard, I just did my first LS swap and I have put 2600 miles on it. I am running a factory tune. I dont think you mentioned if you adjusted any sort of a tune for this video? or was it all on the factory 4.8 tune?
you can't run a turbo with a factory tune-I run these with a Holley and tuned every combination
Look at the 4.8L go. Amazing.
When I get the opportunity to save some extra cash I’m gonna buy a g-body to turbo ls swap it to build a cheap street car
Low end guy here thanks lol
Did you gap the rings or just send it?
He says he did add ring gap at 2:12
I missed that. Thanks
Thanks
Well Richard we need the approximate cost of this so-called first time turbo build. I think the big-ticket item is the Holley HP management system required to make everything safe and user-friendly. I know it is hard to price out the hot side but wastegates blow off valves ,injectors and sensers adds quite a bit to the cost. Without looking everything up I'm guessing $7,500 minimum?
Things sure add up quick sir. I have the Holley hp and they seem to raise the price every year. It comes with a few pressure sensors and you want the NTK O2 sensor for boosted applications over the Bosch which is inferior. Lowdoller motor sports has sensors a little cheaper than the SSI Holley sensors that used to be $100 each. Did you write down the prices or bare bones kits like cx racing or parts needs from VS.
Termi x 1300$ “denmah package”1200$ 450 walby 100$ 6an evil energy fuel line and pny regulator 100$ deka 80’s 400$ exhaust bends piping 300$. For engine new head bolts or head studs depending on your camp and mls hg’s 100$ or 400$ Gap the rings no cost. 200$ miscellaneous ss2 250$ pac1218’s 210$
as said, you can also do the same with factory (existing) ecu
Gm has a wonderful stock engine management system. A lot of time and money invested and you’d be surprised what you can do with a stock gm ls computer.
@@AnDrEw122100 that would require buying some like the HP Tuners setup?
I swear sometimes you read my mind
I'd put a turbo on a Mitsubishi Mirage.
Nice video
Hello everyone,
I picked up a junkyard gen 3 5.3ls engine, and I'm fully rebuilding it with some goodies, I purchased few parts like:
" Mahle 5.3 flat top forged pistons,
" gen 4 rods,
" 862 heads,
" .625 max lift springs,
" FAST LSXR 102mm Intake,
and some other stuff. Whereas I'm stuck on what camshaft and lifters I should choose
My goal is to make as much HP N/A as possible.
The options for the camshaft that I have are :
1) "COMP Cams 54-602-11 Big Mutha' Thumpr"
2) "Comp Cams 54-703-11 Stage 2 Thumpr Cam"
3) "Competition Cams 54-408-11 XFI RPM"
4) "GM Performance Parts Camshaft, LS6 Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller, Lift 0.550/0.550"
These are the cams and only these I can get for free from a friend, the question is which one would allow me to make the most HP.
Thank You everyone for reading
the 602 cam would make the most power-not sure it fits stock p-v, but if you have valve reliefs-it will make the most
@@richardholdener1727 Thank You for replying, You are referring to this one correct (1) "COMP Cams 54-602-11 Big Mutha' Thumpr" ) ?
Turbos aren't expensive. Transmission will be about 6k to 12k, tires and wheels are another 6k,all of the other parts that go with a turbo combo aren't cheap.
2k in my 4l80 1 k Ryan Jan’s converter .1800 qp 9” and axels 400$ center off fb.600$ jet stars 300$ slicks offer up . Over 100 hits and 600 road miles . Your prices are for all top end stuff and a little ridiculous for 90% of people .
Imagine telling Richard he doesn’t know anything about “valve events” LOL
stage 2 camshaft isbabe stage 3++ is the real deal
I’m rocking the BTR stage 3 turbo cam 😊
it's a 4.8 not a 6.2 liter. can go bigger with more liters or cubic inches.
I think your cheap junkyard turbo motor and my cheap junkyard turbo motor have two different meanings. By the title I expected to see a stock junkyard motor with an inexpensive turbo, kinda like a guy would test the waters with his first time. You may or may not get all that stuff cheap but I guarantee theres some serious cash for an average guy to do what you showed there.
Here I am again Richard lol hook me up with some knowledge thanks
No ring gap?
I would love to see a pre eagle hemi 5.7 with a Maxpeedingrods Gt 45 bc that’s my goal by January 18 💪❤️
The constant worry about a 20 hp loss below 3500 rpm is deranged. Who is driving at WOT at 2000 rpm? This combo is not over cammed or turboed. It is under injected and should be wound out to at least 7500 rpm.
A bunch of us tow with turbo LS engines. Being able to hold lockup in 4th gear makes a difference.
No point in having to spin engine 3500+ rpms when chugging along at 2000 rpms with a small cam and the right turbo gets very good mileage.
@@nocturnalspecialties642valid point
John Woodworth done lost his mind
Lol BUT ! didn't loose his squirrels !
Hahahah I love it man 😃
So say you going to run a lite car on a 10.5 tire or smaller say a vega in about 2200 to 2700 pound car so if I'm thinking right so you don't blow the tire at the hit would that work I know a dyno ain't real world testing also shooting for 800 hp out of the motor would that work
yes
@@richardholdener1727 thanks man I'm just now trying to learn turbo stuff it new to me so but willing to learn but I want to do it on the cheap so I? Watching all the videos I can find of your stuff
Yeah to big of a turbo , to big of a cam , converter on the tighter side . Little 50 shot get you up on the chip 😅 nitrous baby .
Oh sweet!!! Only one problem... I will NEVER buy a turbo!! EVER!! 😁
making less power is good too
Watching this video after purchasing a 2000 grand Cherokee
I'm here lol