Great video Mike. I would not be frightened to do a turbo after watching you do one. As usual you have left nothing to chance and fully explained every move. Many thanks. Stay safe. Yorkshire Rob.
After watching so many of your videos I think I'm beginning to "see what you mean"!!! All I need to do now is ditch my land cruiser and get a land rover and I can put it all into practice. lol. love it!
Gotta love that stage of a repair when you've disassembled everything, purchased any required replacements, got all the nuts, bolts and gaskets ready and then reassembly is just like building something with Meccano. ....which is, unfortunately, usually when you realise something is missing or doesn't fit and becomes a buzzkill.
All painted up fancy like, yer know, that manifold would make a nice wall ornament for the living room Mike. Not too sure the paint will survive the sort of EG temps that you get at the turbine. We used to use a product called Rocol anti seize paste, (asp), on power station steam turbine chest bolts/studs, it used to survive temps of 537 deg C, (1000 deg F), you'd never be able to undo the 3 and 4 inch diameter bolts without it.
You have to remember I try to use as many tools and products as the DIY man/woman can get access too - I could have whipped those turbo bolts out in a trice with oxy/acetylene - but who has that? Which is why I use Mapp gas
Hello Mike, first of all thank you for all the really good and helpful videos over so many years which solved so many questions for me.. Actually I have a problem with the replacement of the turbo cartridge in particular. I have replaced the turbo cartridge on my 1998 300TDI with the “Enhanced Turbo Cartridge” with more power, which is identical to the original from Garrett. After installation, I now have the problem that the turbo goes up to 0.5 bar from the start, but produces practically no power until I reach approx. 2300-2500 RPM. Only after 2300rmp does the turbo then kick in very vehemently. Unfortunately, due to the high engine speed, it is not possible to shift up on hills or with a trailer, because I have to rev the engine extremely high to get the turbo past the turbo lag in the next gear. I usually have to downshift because I can't manage that. That's extremely annoying. The turbo does not draw any secondary air, all hoses are new. I measured the timing with a dial gauge because I suspected that the start of delivery of the ESP was not correct. But the engine runs wonderfully and the timing belt is correctly adjusted. Bigger intercooler from Ally sports is clean and ok, the Wastegate works, vacuum adjustment can works. I don't know what to do further. Even the manufacturer of the turbo cartridge has no explanation for this. What could be the reason? I have no more ideas and simply can't find the fault. This is the turbo cartridge I fitted: Land Rover 300tdi Enhanced Turbo Ticket Hybrid Upgrade Turbocharger CHRA 452055 www.ebay.de/itm/391230259052 Have you any other idea what the problem is? Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
It seems to me to be a fuelling problem. I would be checking the injector pump Manifold-pressure compensator The square thing on top of the injector pump The manifold-pressure compensator (LDA) reacts to the charge-air pressure generated by the exhaust-gas turbocharger The diaphragm could be split, the pin it reacts on could be sticking, or it could be badly adjusted Check the pipe leading to this (the small black plastic one) for leaks and bad connections
Yes mike good job done.a don't know why they didn't do set up like 200tdi. Turbo couldn't be hidden anymore than it is But yes them four little bxxstxxd bolts👍
@@BritannicaRestorations Never tried, but I will check with my local fastener supplier... I did comment about the old days for a reason... they don't seem to worry about that these days. I have seen brass nuts though.. and the long variety too..
Hi Mike, great video as always. Do you know if there is anything special about the little hose that goes to the waste gate control ? I note that you seem to use an ordinary hose I only ask as here in the UK that hose costs £100.43 list. It's part number STC4617.
Very nice I’ve just collected a 300tdi and disco box for my series conversion. Have you ever converted an r380 from normal to stumpy ? Cheers Mike the engine looks mega
QUESTION... Is thread guard and anti seize the same? Last week you mentioned aluminum anti seize, this week it is copper anti seize. Also mentioned you not to put in the holes in case it cracks the casing. What's the difference between putting on threads and not holes. Also you mentioned copper grease. I really want to attempt to do these jobs myself, but I'm confused what and when I should use these different greases, thread locker and anti seize. Is there a rule of thumb? Thanks Peter
Yes it is the same stuff So aluminum for low to medium temperature, Copper for medium to high, Nickle for very high. If you have a blind hole - one that has not been drilled all the way through a casting for example, then it is not wise to put any anti seize in the hole, but put it on the threads , because if you have anti-seize in the blind hole, then the action of screwing the bolt in to the hole could cause a hydraulic fracture of the casting - not good! Thread lock on bolts you do not want to come out - like brake caliper bolts for example
The problem with stainless steel is that when in contact with rust the rust eat the chrome away and start to rust with time.Did metal workers theory when training as an artesan
Someone did kits years ago, Bearmach, I think. It was a bad idea - the 12J and 19J are similar, but not quite the same - the 12J doesn’t have to oil galleries for the turbo and you’d need the reinforced pistons and rods from the 19J. I have read a few times that the bearings for the crank were updated, or at least their seats in the block were. The injection pump is also different, as the 19J’s has the boost diaphragm. With all those upgrades, the 19J was a bad engine, prone to cracked pistons and heads. The 200Tdi was more extensively redesigned than people realise, even though its heritage is clear and it shares many 12J components.
Hello and good day. I have a 1991 defender ex military 110 it’s already been taken to the Britannia shop before. It has a 2.5n/a diesel and it’s making some very concerning noises. I have videos of the noise is there any possibility someone can help me diagnose the issue. The noise seems to be loud all around the engine bay and seems like it’s from behind the dash when I’m in the vehicle. I’m very stumped if anyone can help it’d be very appreciated
@@BritannicaRestorations its a 1991 110 defender military hardened version, it only had 55,000 original kilometres, but the original motor was blown from having the values reseated wrong. So it got a full engine swap and transmission. It would have been taken away by a guy coming from east Toronto driving a sprinter van, and he would have flat towed it using an A arm that attaches to the front bumper. It is also probably the only one with a turret hole above the passenger front seat. It’s a 3 door cargo van style. It’s got a sticker that say. Britannica customs made my Land Rover better
Thanks mate helped me heaps and believe it or not my bolts came out easy, been there a long time. 👍
No problem 👍
Great video Mike. I would not be frightened to do a turbo after watching you do one. As usual you have left nothing to chance and fully explained every move. Many thanks. Stay safe. Yorkshire Rob.
Cheers Rob- it went together OK - getting it apart was another story!
After watching so many of your videos I think I'm beginning to "see what you mean"!!! All I need to do now is ditch my land cruiser and get a land rover and I can put it all into practice. lol. love it!
Go for it!
Gotta love that stage of a repair when you've disassembled everything, purchased any required replacements, got all the nuts, bolts and gaskets ready and then reassembly is just like building something with Meccano.
....which is, unfortunately, usually when you realise something is missing or doesn't fit and becomes a buzzkill.
All painted up fancy like, yer know, that manifold would make a nice wall ornament for the living room Mike. Not too sure the paint will survive the sort of EG temps that you get at the turbine. We used to use a product called Rocol anti seize paste, (asp), on power station steam turbine chest bolts/studs, it used to survive temps of 537 deg C, (1000 deg F), you'd never be able to undo the 3 and 4 inch diameter bolts without it.
You have to remember I try to use as many tools and products as the DIY man/woman can get access too - I could have whipped those turbo bolts out in a trice with oxy/acetylene - but who has that? Which is why I use Mapp gas
Hello Mike, first of all thank you for all the really good and helpful videos over so many years which solved so many questions for me..
Actually I have a problem with the replacement of the turbo cartridge in particular. I have replaced the turbo cartridge on my 1998 300TDI with the “Enhanced Turbo Cartridge” with more power, which is identical to the original from Garrett. After installation, I now have the problem that the turbo goes up to 0.5 bar from the start, but produces practically no power until I reach approx. 2300-2500 RPM. Only after 2300rmp does the turbo then kick in very vehemently. Unfortunately, due to the high engine speed, it is not possible to shift up on hills or with a trailer, because I have to rev the engine extremely high to get the turbo past the turbo lag in the next gear. I usually have to downshift because I can't manage that. That's extremely annoying.
The turbo does not draw any secondary air, all hoses are new. I measured the timing with a dial gauge because I suspected that the start of delivery of the ESP was not correct. But the engine runs wonderfully and the timing belt is correctly adjusted. Bigger intercooler from Ally sports is clean and ok, the Wastegate works, vacuum adjustment can works. I don't know what to do further. Even the manufacturer of the turbo cartridge has no explanation for this. What could be the reason? I have no more ideas and simply can't find the fault. This is the turbo cartridge I fitted: Land Rover 300tdi Enhanced Turbo Ticket Hybrid Upgrade Turbocharger CHRA 452055 www.ebay.de/itm/391230259052
Have you any other idea what the problem is?
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
It seems to me to be a fuelling problem.
I would be checking the injector pump Manifold-pressure compensator
The square thing on top of the injector pump
The manifold-pressure compensator (LDA) reacts to the charge-air pressure generated by the exhaust-gas turbocharger
The diaphragm could be split, the pin it reacts on could be sticking, or it could be badly adjusted
Check the pipe leading to this (the small black plastic one) for leaks and bad connections
@@BritannicaRestorations Many thanks. Hoffe, da ist nichts KAPUTT! :-)
Thanks!
Thank you!
A work of art!
Maybe chrome next time!! ? lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations All of your parts have always been better than new, even before you got that turbo hyper cleaning hoojigger.
Yes mike good job done.a don't know why they didn't do set up like 200tdi.
Turbo couldn't be hidden anymore than it is
But yes them four little bxxstxxd bolts👍
Yes they were tricky to work on!
It looks like it's going fast even when it is just sat on the bench
Lol! Sports manifold! Bet it lasts 1/2 hour!
In the old days, steel studs and brass nuts were used... sometimes even brass studs and brass nuts.. mostly easy to remove the nuts...
Have you tried getting brass 8mm bolts?
@@BritannicaRestorations Never tried, but I will check with my local fastener supplier... I did comment about the old days for a reason... they don't seem to worry about that these days. I have seen brass nuts though.. and the long variety too..
Hi Mike, great video as always. Do you know if there is anything special about the little hose that goes to the waste gate control ? I note that you seem to use an ordinary hose I only ask as here in the UK that hose costs £100.43 list. It's part number STC4617.
Not that I know of - just a bit of hose - I think the original is molded - no idea why
Very nice I’ve just collected a 300tdi and disco box for my series conversion. Have you ever converted an r380 from normal to stumpy ? Cheers Mike the engine looks mega
No but it is quite easy with all the parts
ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/short-bellhousing-r380-parts-kit/
I just put one on a 90, Ashcrofts make a great kit. Be sure to use the correct slave cylinder rod and all the other parts they supply.
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks that was the plan
QUESTION... Is thread guard and anti seize the same? Last week you mentioned aluminum anti seize, this week it is copper anti seize. Also mentioned you not to put in the holes in case it cracks the casing. What's the difference between putting on threads and not holes. Also you mentioned copper grease. I really want to attempt to do these jobs myself, but I'm confused what and when I should use these different greases, thread locker and anti seize. Is there a rule of thumb?
Thanks
Peter
Yes it is the same stuff
So aluminum for low to medium temperature, Copper for medium to high, Nickle for very high.
If you have a blind hole - one that has not been drilled all the way through a casting for example, then it is not wise to put any anti seize in the hole, but put it on the threads , because if you have anti-seize in the blind hole, then the action of screwing the bolt in to the hole could cause a hydraulic fracture of the casting - not good!
Thread lock on bolts you do not want to come out - like brake caliper bolts for example
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you. Really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Have a great weekend from Malawi!
I use copper grease on everything including aluminium. Have I been getting it wrong all this time?
Not really - aluminum for low temp, copper for higher temps and nickle ( didn't have any) for exhausts etc
The problem with stainless steel is that when in contact with rust the rust eat the chrome away and start to rust with time.Did metal workers theory when training as an artesan
It is still better than using steel bolts.
Indeed!
Hi Mike can you retrofit a turbo to a naturally asperated 2.5
Not easy as the compression is too high in the NA
Someone did kits years ago, Bearmach, I think. It was a bad idea - the 12J and 19J are similar, but not quite the same - the 12J doesn’t have to oil galleries for the turbo and you’d need the reinforced pistons and rods from the 19J. I have read a few times that the bearings for the crank were updated, or at least their seats in the block were. The injection pump is also different, as the 19J’s has the boost diaphragm.
With all those upgrades, the 19J was a bad engine, prone to cracked pistons and heads. The 200Tdi was more extensively redesigned than people realise, even though its heritage is clear and it shares many 12J components.
Hello and good day. I have a 1991 defender ex military 110 it’s already been taken to the Britannia shop before. It has a 2.5n/a diesel and it’s making some very concerning noises. I have videos of the noise is there any possibility someone can help me diagnose the issue. The noise seems to be loud all around the engine bay and seems like it’s from behind the dash when I’m in the vehicle. I’m very stumped if anyone can help it’d be very appreciated
I get many old vehicles come here - can you be more specific?
@@BritannicaRestorations its a 1991 110 defender military hardened version, it only had 55,000 original kilometres, but the original motor was blown from having the values reseated wrong. So it got a full engine swap and transmission. It would have been taken away by a guy coming from east Toronto driving a sprinter van, and he would have flat towed it using an A arm that attaches to the front bumper. It is also probably the only one with a turret hole above the passenger front seat. It’s a 3 door cargo van style. It’s got a sticker that say. Britannica customs made my Land Rover better
Thanks!
Welcome!