Really helpful video. Just followed it step by step on a 300tdi Defender and everything went exactly as you explained, even down to the same studs coming loose! Many thanks for taking the time to post.
Great video. Doing exactly this job and it was made easy by following what is essentially a step by step guide. Like yourself most of my studs came out with the nuts. I have to admit that I endured a short period of head scratching trying to figure out how to access the bottom / middle exhaust manifold nut (I didn't even know it was there initially) ......until that is, I watched the video again, this time to the end, and you covered it when refitting the manifold. Many thanks from the UK. (Liked and subscribed.)
@@rovertasmania7033 We used to live in Perth, WA and have experienced those sort of temps many times so didn't get too excited by it. Normal service now resume however - it's back to grey and miserable. Having almost completed the inlet and exhaust manifold job, I'm now just watching your intercooler maintenance videos as there seems no point in cleaning out a huge amount of oily gunk from the inlet manifold just to have it get blown back in via the intercooler which I suspect will be in an equally oily state (the reason for starting the inlet / exhaust manifold job was to chase down the source of oil, which to my confusion, appeared to leaking down thecside if the engine from the inlet manifold - I couldn't work out why there would be oil there in the first place). After checking on my Defender, it appears the source of the oil is the cyclone filter on the opposite side of the engine - apparently it's a poor design, easily gets clogged and blows excess oil through the hose leading from the cyclone, 'down stream', to the point at which it joins the large plastic hose running from the back of the air filter. This in turn connects to the turbo, ie the oil is entering the turbo and being blown through and on into the intercooler and the inlet manifold rather rather than originating from a failure of the turbo itself. New uprated / improved Allisport cyclone filter on its way in a bid to address the origins of the problem. Thanks again....it was only by pulling everything apart with the assistance provided by your videos that I have been able to make sense of it all.
@@philsorah990 Great diagnosis, now you know how the whole thing works, nothing like having that freedom feeling of knowledge and independence. Thanks again for the post.
great video, want to do this to mine but the top right bolt on the inlet manifold was already rounded off, just no access to get anything in there even with the airbox pipe removed
Great vid, helped me a lot in doing mine, some of the bolts were dam tight but got there in the end. but now the swivel joint is leaking so yet another job to do. thank god for you tube :)
Good to know its sorted. Funny that my left side swivel is leaking again. This time ill try the option of cutting the swivel seal at 12oclock to put it in rather than removing the whole hub assembly!
Hey can you show me the ABS warning light location on your dashboard . I have a 1995 Landrover Discovery 2.5 TDI and also the vacuum pipe set up . I’ve remove my ERG so I need to plug something off so my break warning system works cheers
Hey mate! You have the exact same disco as me, same colour too. I've caught wind that I have an exhaust leak, and I don't know how to tell if it's the manifold itself, or just one of the gaskets. Do you know how I can narrow it down? I happen to have a second-hand manifold, and I have new gaskets (the main gasket and the downpipe gasket), and a manifold fastening kit (studs, nuts etc) from British Auto Parts. Not sure whether to do the whole manifold, or just the gasket/s... To replace the manifold, do you have any advice on the extra steps I'd need to take? I'm no mechanic, but I have done things like the timing belt (a bit hard, needed help from a friend), rear prop shaft bearing, fuel injector hoses, pan hard rod... Hoping I am capable of the manifold.
Thank's for this video. I'm going to remove my inlet manifold and clean it becouse it is clogged (now EGR is removed). Do you have any solutions to do this ? Some chemistry or method ?
+Jarzyna Dont use anything that is costic to the alloy... stick with petrolium products like diesel. Best to use a high pressure hose (like at a car wash) if you dont want to use diesel. Once cleaned, leave to dry completely before re-install as you dont want any water to be sucked into the engine. Also, if you use diesel (or pretolium) ensure you dont have any fumes left, its gotta smell clean.
Hi got to work last week and my disco had smoke coming from front of bonnet, lucky i had a 3ltr bottle of water in the back, the lining on the bonnet was on fire, well after the return trip home the following day it seems my manifold gasket has blown, so after watching this i thought right il fix it, but bugger me the second bolt just wont budge, and now all my 10 mm sockets just spin on it. Well feed up, every time i try to do something theres always one bolt that gives me hassle, think the blow torch will come out to help?
Hiya... You'll get issues with any old vehicle obviously. Things rust in place. I found using diesel in a spray bottle helps loosen up bolts, not a magic cure but helps. As for the stubborn one, try this first, the use vice grips if possible. Use heat as a last resort as you're dealing with an alloy head. Best of luck, and yes frustrations will happen. Cheers.
Yes, if there is blockage it will reduce air flow, but i never seen one blocked. Most likely its a fuel delivery issue, or air leaking into the fuel line.
I done mine. Gotta re do it though I think as it’s leaking. For some reason my manifold looks slightly different and for the love of god I can’t get to that final exhaust nut at the bottom between cylinders 2/3. I have some gold clip thing in the way that I’m too scared to take off as I don’t know what it does.
No some gold clip around the middle of the turbo. Right where you put your extension bar through the gap. Your turbo doesn’t have it. Mines weird lol. Saw the injector pump diaphragm videos, pretty cool stuff man 👊
@@andrep8479 OK, may be an aftermarket turbo?? From memory you can get to the nut from the bottom, but you got to contort yourself like some Yogo nutter to get to it. Injector pump tweaks are actually easy, just need an EGT gauge before you go modifying the settings.
Yea I see the EGT gauge you set up. One day I’ll get to that, then the low coolant alarm, then the fuel screw on the injector pump n then the diaphragm. You’d definitely get better fuel economy. Mine is at best 6.5 - 7km to the litre and when towing it’s like 5.5km. Yes I say it’s leaking from 2/3 as I could only get a spanner on there and my torquing there definitely ain’t 45 NM (33 foot pound). It was ok for a day then leaked on the 2nd day. You can’t get any kind of leverage with a spanner (unless there’s room for 3 spanners lol) or any exact torquing applications for that matter.
@@rovertasmania7033 what about now? Great vid. I am in the middle of doing this on my 96 disco. I couldn't quite bet my manifold as clean as yours, though!
I just found a tool mate. Google the crows foot wrench piece. This might just do it. Got to keep it at 90 degrees though as it will mess with the torque settings I’ve heard. What a brilliant little tool it is ay. Hope it’s enough
@@jameskray4368 James Kray yes, its a possible issue. Need to have the turbo checked to make sure seal hasn't failed. Also check cyclone unit. I would pull the intercooler out and see if its full of oil. A little bit is fine, but too much indicates a turbo issue. If its OK then it may be the cyclone. First thing is to remove it, the intercooler and give them a thorough clean (not with petrol but a non flammable degreaser). Both need to be completely dry before reinstalling. Drive around for.a week or two and check if again lots of oil.
9 years down the line and you've helped a guy out massively. Thanks pal!
hahah, good to know they are still of use, thanks :)
Really helpful video. Just followed it step by step on a 300tdi Defender and everything went exactly as you explained, even down to the same studs coming loose! Many thanks for taking the time to post.
Very helpful, I’ve managed to change manifold exhaust seal with no issues! Thanks
Thanks for letting me know ;)
Thank you, thank you, thank you for making this. Cheers
Youre welcome ;)
Great video. Doing exactly this job and it was made easy by following what is essentially a step by step guide. Like yourself most of my studs came out with the nuts. I have to admit that I endured a short period of head scratching trying to figure out how to access the bottom / middle exhaust manifold nut (I didn't even know it was there initially) ......until that is, I watched the video again, this time to the end, and you covered it when refitting the manifold. Many thanks from the UK. (Liked and subscribed.)
Thx Phil, glad you got it sorted. Hope you guys are doing ok with the heat there.
@@rovertasmania7033 We used to live in Perth, WA and have experienced those sort of temps many times so didn't get too excited by it. Normal service now resume however - it's back to grey and miserable. Having almost completed the inlet and exhaust manifold job, I'm now just watching your intercooler maintenance videos as there seems no point in cleaning out a huge amount of oily gunk from the inlet manifold just to have it get blown back in via the intercooler which I suspect will be in an equally oily state (the reason for starting the inlet / exhaust manifold job was to chase down the source of oil, which to my confusion, appeared to leaking down thecside if the engine from the inlet manifold - I couldn't work out why there would be oil there in the first place). After checking on my Defender, it appears the source of the oil is the cyclone filter on the opposite side of the engine - apparently it's a poor design, easily gets clogged and blows excess oil through the hose leading from the cyclone, 'down stream', to the point at which it joins the large plastic hose running from the back of the air filter. This in turn connects to the turbo, ie the oil is entering the turbo and being blown through and on into the intercooler and the inlet manifold rather rather than originating from a failure of the turbo itself. New uprated / improved Allisport cyclone filter on its way in a bid to address the origins of the problem. Thanks again....it was only by pulling everything apart with the assistance provided by your videos that I have been able to make sense of it all.
@@philsorah990 Great diagnosis, now you know how the whole thing works, nothing like having that freedom feeling of knowledge and independence. Thanks again for the post.
Very useful, thank you for taking the time to produce and upload. Good job. Appreciate it
great video, want to do this to mine but the top right bolt on the inlet manifold was already rounded off, just no access to get anything in there even with the airbox pipe removed
First class video. Thanks for your efforts, the close ups are excellent
Thanks Martin
Thanks a mil RT for posting this. I like how detailed tye vid is and explained step by step. I'm about to do mine on Disco 1 300tdi. Cheers. RSA
Great tutorial RT, came at a good time too, I am about to do one in my defender. Thanks for posting!!
Great vid, helped me a lot in doing mine, some of the bolts were dam tight but got there in the end. but now the swivel joint is leaking so yet another job to do. thank god for you tube :)
Good to know its sorted. Funny that my left side swivel is leaking again. This time ill try the option of cutting the swivel seal at 12oclock to put it in rather than removing the whole hub assembly!
Thanks.The video was useful for me.
Hey can you show me the ABS warning light location on your dashboard . I have a 1995 Landrover Discovery 2.5 TDI and also the vacuum pipe set up . I’ve remove my ERG so I need to plug something off so my break warning system works cheers
Hey mate! You have the exact same disco as me, same colour too. I've caught wind that I have an exhaust leak, and I don't know how to tell if it's the manifold itself, or just one of the gaskets. Do you know how I can narrow it down? I happen to have a second-hand manifold, and I have new gaskets (the main gasket and the downpipe gasket), and a manifold fastening kit (studs, nuts etc) from British Auto Parts. Not sure whether to do the whole manifold, or just the gasket/s...
To replace the manifold, do you have any advice on the extra steps I'd need to take? I'm no mechanic, but I have done things like the timing belt (a bit hard, needed help from a friend), rear prop shaft bearing, fuel injector hoses, pan hard rod... Hoping I am capable of the manifold.
Do the exhaust gasket, the manifolds dont usually fail so give that a first go. It will be somewhat obvious if the gasket has failed ;)
great videoing of the hard to see bits - thanks!
Many thanks
Two questions: no copper grease on the manifold before setting? what are torque settings for bolting-up?
I dont put anything on these dry gaskets. Tighten it snug enough, but not to kill it ;)
On mine the top left of the inlet was 10mm, and the other 3 were 1/2" ... I haven't tackled the exhaust yet.
Very informative many thanks for this... you have a new subscriber
jan mallia azzopardi Thanks for your comment and support.
Does the inlet have to come off to access the frontmost exhaust manifold stud?
I would remove anyway as you got an opportunity to clean the manifold and give it all a good look through ;)
Thank's for this video. I'm going to remove my inlet manifold and clean it becouse it is clogged (now EGR is removed). Do you have any solutions to do this ? Some chemistry or method ?
+Jarzyna Dont use anything that is costic to the alloy... stick with petrolium products like diesel. Best to use a high pressure hose (like at a car wash) if you dont want to use diesel. Once cleaned, leave to dry completely before re-install as you dont want any water to be sucked into the engine. Also, if you use diesel (or pretolium) ensure you dont have any fumes left, its gotta smell clean.
Hi got to work last week and my disco had smoke coming from front of bonnet, lucky i had a 3ltr bottle of water in the back, the lining on the bonnet was on fire, well after the return trip home the following day it seems my manifold gasket has blown, so after watching this i thought right il fix it, but bugger me the second bolt just wont budge, and now all my 10 mm sockets just spin on it. Well feed up, every time i try to do something theres always one bolt that gives me hassle, think the blow torch will come out to help?
Hiya... You'll get issues with any old vehicle obviously. Things rust in place. I found using diesel in a spray bottle helps loosen up bolts, not a magic cure but helps. As for the stubborn one, try this first, the use vice grips if possible. Use heat as a last resort as you're dealing with an alloy head. Best of luck, and yes frustrations will happen. Cheers.
Does a blocket manifold cause an hard start engine ?
Yes, if there is blockage it will reduce air flow, but i never seen one blocked. Most likely its a fuel delivery issue, or air leaking into the fuel line.
This is a really helpfull vid. A job im about go do. You made it look so easy. Though how you managed it with one hand i dont know...
I done mine. Gotta re do it though I think as it’s leaking. For some reason my manifold looks slightly different and for the love of god I can’t get to that final exhaust nut at the bottom between cylinders 2/3. I have some gold clip thing in the way that I’m too scared to take off as I don’t know what it does.
Yes that dreaded nut! Gold clip... on the nut? Could be a lock washer to stop the nut from vibrating off. Cant see what else i could be.
No some gold clip around the middle of the turbo. Right where you put your extension bar through the gap. Your turbo doesn’t have it. Mines weird lol. Saw the injector pump diaphragm videos, pretty cool stuff man 👊
@@andrep8479 OK, may be an aftermarket turbo?? From memory you can get to the nut from the bottom, but you got to contort yourself like some Yogo nutter to get to it. Injector pump tweaks are actually easy, just need an EGT gauge before you go modifying the settings.
Yea I see the EGT gauge you set up. One day I’ll get to that, then the low coolant alarm, then the fuel screw on the injector pump n then the diaphragm. You’d definitely get better fuel economy. Mine is at best 6.5 - 7km to the litre and when towing it’s like 5.5km.
Yes I say it’s leaking from 2/3 as I could only get a spanner on there and my torquing there definitely ain’t 45 NM (33 foot pound). It was ok for a day then leaked on the 2nd day. You can’t get any kind of leverage with a spanner (unless there’s room for 3 spanners lol) or any exact torquing applications for that matter.
P.S. yes it’s definitely an after market turbo. This turbo even has coolant running through the middle of it. With 2 hose ends.
Can I do the same pretty much on a 200tdi?
never owned a 200tdi, but its fairly straight forward.
My 2001 discovery is like releasing air pressure from the right side kind of where the manifold is. Does anyone know what it may be?
Hey mate what year is your disco? and how many ks has she done cheers
+Roykie22 nz Hiya - its a 1995 with just over 260,000 klm... and still runs like a champ!
@@rovertasmania7033 what about now? Great vid. I am in the middle of doing this on my 96 disco. I couldn't quite bet my manifold as clean as yours, though!
@@supermarinespitfire1 Now its over 310k, going great. Clean is a matter of perspective ;)
great video and information
Thanks Neill, I appreciate your comment.
Hi, what kind of connection do you have where the EGR valve was sitting? Is it Adblu connection? And how did you make it?
There was no egr in Australia. Its just a blanking plate. I have the egt gauge there to measure temps, something that is vital if tweaking the pump.
THANK YOU FOR DETAIL VIDEO
excellent. Thanks very much for the time and effort you took to film this.
You're welcome Chris. Thx for the post.
How do you get to the bottom middle bolt aghhh
It's a bugger! I used a long extension on a ratchet drive through the small gap.
@@rovertasmania7033 got it 3/8 inch ratchet and a 17mm rather than 15 👀
I just found a tool mate. Google the crows foot wrench piece. This might just do it. Got to keep it at 90 degrees though as it will mess with the torque settings I’ve heard. What a brilliant little tool it is ay. Hope it’s enough
That should do it! Yes 90 degrees will retain toque but see if you have the room.
Thanks this video is a big help!!
You're welcome, cheers.
That was so helpful
Awesome cheers 👍👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺🍺
Do they have a gasket
Yes, fairly thick too.
Rover Tasmania just wondering does it mean anything if there Is thick oil in the intake manifold
@@jameskray4368 James Kray yes, its a possible issue. Need to have the turbo checked to make sure seal hasn't failed. Also check cyclone unit. I would pull the intercooler out and see if its full of oil. A little bit is fine, but too much indicates a turbo issue. If its OK then it may be the cyclone. First thing is to remove it, the intercooler and give them a thorough clean (not with petrol but a non flammable degreaser). Both need to be completely dry before reinstalling. Drive around for.a week or two and check if again lots of oil.
Rover Tasmania thanks a lot I will do that this week