Cheating your way up a rope, using a Prusik & an ATC Guide plate to ascend, for self rescue.
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- Опубликовано: 14 апр 2020
- In this one we look not only at prusiking up a rope, but also using a guide plate in place of a prusik / klemheist too, to be a little more efficient. Let us know how you get on practicing!
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Let us know how you get on switching in to or out of abseiling! Don’t forget the 10% off at Epic TV either!
What code do you have to use Jez?
Jeremy Ballard The code is JBMOUNTAIN10 and it has to be in caps
@@jeremyballard7461 What Nick said!
Hey! So I've really been working on setting up an repel if I was set up as demonstrated in this video. I have a way to get onto an extended belay completely, prusik and all, but the darn clove hitch you've suggested as a stopper is so difficult to remove, that I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly. Any suggestions?
Note: my method is as follows. I'm set up, and my clove hitch is on a separate biner from the belay plate.
1. I use the sling used for the footloop to connect as an extension between me and belay plate (using the carabiner that attached it to prusik and the biner on the belay plate holding rope)
2. I make a foot loop on the rope below me, and attach it to the prusik to make a 2:1 pulley ratio, and use it to get the weight off the belay plate.
3. Disconnect the belay plate from belay loop
4. While standing on the foot loop, slide the belay plate up, to take out the slack in the extension
5. Weight the extention. Tie a catastrophe knot (below the clove). Up to this point, the clove has acted as protection to any mishaps that may occur.
6. Untie the prusik from above the belay plate, and retie it below the belay plate. Clip it into your belay loop.
7. Now I need to untie the clove hitch, but it has held my weight a few times in the course of setting up the repel, and it's too tight to untie or disconnect. (This is my issue)
8. Begin your descent (don't forget to untie the catastrophe knot before hitting it)
Two things I’ve learned here:
1, Clove hitch to the rope for extra security.
2, How to use my ATC device instead of my usual upper prusik.
Many thanks. Great stuff.
Genius, that. love the guide plate tip.
Glad it was helpful!
You have an excellent way of teaching Jez, loving your videos.
That’s very kind, thank you! Glad you’re enjoying them :)
Being a solo climber I am constantly learning/training in as many ways that I can for self rescue situations as well as normal climbing logistics.
Love your advice and videos! It’s always easy to understand and your thought processes are solid and I must say typically similar to mine!😉♥️🧗♂️🔥
Hi! Glad you're liking the videos!
Thank you so much for this video, I abbed in to a climb a little above my comfort zone today and had to escape due to bad weather approaching, I could have easily climbed it but I panicked.
Anyway I was methodical and worked my way up 20 meters, I was more happy doing this than I would have completing the climb, wish I had done it in relative safety first, but hey ho your video stuck in my head and I checked everything I was doing on my way up, including the rolling hitch!
Thank you you have taught me sooooo much.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks JB! Your channel has been my goto for revising rope skills that I recently learnt/was shown. Amazing resource!
My pleasure 👊
Another great video. 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
Loved the video . Great Content yet again 👍👍😀
Thanks again!
Love tour videos mate! Big hugs from Chile!
Very kind :)
Super good info in your videos😃👍🏻
Dude great videos, keep them coming! Cheers from Maryland
Glad you like them!
Excellent video, cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Really Enjoying these videos man. Thanks for making them@
My pleasure!
Also could be used with a gri gri then!
Loved this video!! Learned so much from this! The guide plate and clove hitch back up is huge. Cant wait to practice it
Nice one :)
Love your video's Jez, calm, clear and UK specific professional content. Have you had issues when using the belay device to ascend? I have used it a couple of times and you have to be really careful about the ropes you are using, diameter, age, etc. I have experienced the live rope crossing round the dead rope and caused it to lock up completely; not being able to unlock it without taking the rope out and rethreading the device. Thanks for doing these vids, only discovered you just before Christmas, but love the range of content and the presentation style.
Glad you like them!
I haven't had any issues, but you're right to consider rope diameter, worse than fully locking, super skinny ropes can lead to plate defeat in certain orientations.
Great video! I had most of this worked out in my mind but you confirmed it. Tried it at home with my megajul and it worked great. 👍🏼
Glad it was useful!
Clarified my doubt... thanks!
Happy to help!
I've been meaning to try this for months! I'm going to try this today.
Very good timing Jez.
Thanks again for the great content. I really appreciate all the hard work and time that goes into making, editing and uploading these videos.
So thankyou very much!
Such a good quality video dude, this is exactly the type of video I needed.
I'm a bit scared you're reading my mind! Hahah
Haha, I have my spies..! Glad it was useful!
@@JBMountainSkills hahah I knew it!
Went out and did it earlier. Was actually a right laugh! The guide plate was super efficient too. Good to see both ways of doing it.
Thanks!
“It’s not a klemheist actually” 😂😂 brilliant
Awesome video, Jez! I use the guide plate trick but I redirect the dead rope up to the foot prusik. And I think the upside down Klemheist is a Hedden
Good skills! That's a nice next step version.
Ahhh Hedden sounds familiar, good knowledge!
👏👍💯
Love this method. Can you use a knot in the foot loop klemmheist and attach a carabiner to redirect the rope out of the guide plate, like in the makeshift ascender video? I found that made it loads easier and smoother but haven’t tried it with a foot loop.
I think a rounded carabiner for the guide plate loop / rope loop helps because when I used a Petzl screwlock, which is quite sharply angled, with a DMM Pivot, the bottom of the plate and the top of the carabiner liked to bite into each other when moving up and weighting it.
As long as your foot loop is above the guide plate this would work in theory, the plate might be a bit grabby though, I'll have to have a go!
Sorry to be posting questions in all your older videos! Would you ever use the foot loop sling as the prussic and the foot loop, or is it always preferable to have separate sling and prussic?
I sometimes would for sure :)
Using the guide plate was so much easier Jez 👍🏻. Struggling to get the switch between up and down. Can the guide plate be extended or does that just over complicate things?
Works well doesn't it! I'll aim to cover that in the long awaited Escaping the system Pt3! I wouldn't extend it for going up, but might for going down...
A suggestion, where you have your top prusik above the guide ATC, overhand the spare end and clip a carabiner as a redirect for the brake strand to enable you to pull down as you step up. Can you see any issues with this? The brake strand won't be in the classic position, but it doesn't in conventional guide mode.
Sounds like it should work, but I haven't tried it like that so you'll have to have a play! Because you have the footloose to stand in, I'm not sure I'd bother, but like I say, not tried it like that in this setup.
@@JBMountainSkills so I didn't explain too well. Exactly what you have done, but with an additional overhand in the prusik after you've tied it to create a second loop, then attach your foot loop as you prefer, then simply add a snapgate or locker into the loop you made, brake strand clips into this carabiner. Pull down on the brake strand as you stand up in the foot loop and the slack is immediately taken care of.
@@mattbaker1683 Same idea as going up with an ascender and a gri gri.
Would I be okay using an ascender in place of the upper prusic, or is there a better way you use these bits?
Hi Jez! First of all, thanks for your content and breifly walk throught the topics of climbing.
I was wondering ihf the plate method would work with the ATC Guide attached like one would belay a leader or abseil himself including a prusik undereath. The bonus of that in my eyes could be, that you can be very fast in changing to abseil and your prusik only has to hold the force of a third hand for the atc. Let me know, I might try that in a home scenario...
Glad you like the videos.
Apologies, but I'm unsure of what you mean?
@@JBMountainSkills nevermind, it's hard to describe...
@@gfm8421 I think I get what you mean - no reason it wouldn't work, I've done this to climb back up easy terrain after abseiling and the main disadvantage is it's hard to pull the rope through the belay plate and 3rd hand at the same time, so you end up having to take in the slack through the plate and then again through the prussic, which is a bit faffy, and is harder to do easily with one hand. Did you try it in the end?
@@stephenevans2518 Hi Stephen! Thanks for the comment! Indeed I tried it aswell, and it was exactly for the same reasons that it is possible but a bit of a hassle.
Have come up with a solution. The crux seems to be getting the weight off the plate so you can switch modes. Here is my effort:
Put a french prussic on the rope below the clove hitch and attach to leg loop to maintain distance to plate.
Put a second locker into b. Loop and tie a c. Hitch below the f. Prussic
Unite top C. Hitch and take slack through f. Prussic until it bites
Stand up on klem
Slacken the plate
Clip locking krab from the “wire” side of plate into belay loop
Remove krab from guide side of plate
All the time making sure that the f. Prussic is biting
Take foot out of sling.
Check f. Prussic is holding
Remove c. Hitch
Carry on abseiling 😂🤣
Good effort!
Sounds a little over complicated though... I reckon the key to unweighting the ATC is just to stand up in a foot loop, which is safe because of the clove hitch back up.
I just liked hanging in the harness 🤣☺️🥵
Thanks for this. One question. Now that you use the Gigajul, would you be happy to use this in assisted braking instead of guide mode , to save a screwgate and also allow easy conversion to abseil? In theory I can't see a problem but will try it out.
The lock from the assistance isn't as solid as guide mode provides, so I don't think so, but haven't tried it.
Great video!
Any specific reason to use the ATC in guide mode? Better friction or…?
When it's in guide mode it "locks" (If you start bouncing around on it, it might start slipping).
Hey Jez, loving your video series, keep them coming! Great trick with the ATC in guide mode, it makes a lot of sense and looks a lot more efficient. It did make me think of this video I saw a while back though which is worth a watch if you haven't already seen it : ruclips.net/video/385cP_FYNEs/видео.html
Looks particularly relevant in this scenario where you have the braking carabiner under repeated loading cycles, as well as positioned close in to your body with all the movement and opportunity to give it a helping knock to rotate. That said. you're not likely to be ascending on a skinny rope in most of the scenarios you've mentioned. Food for thought though, and definitely reinforces the rope-backup message.
I've not seen that particular video before but I have seen others like it. It's also more likely on a traverse, definitely another thing to be aware of, good share!