Awesome trick. Base on your video, I'll make mine as wide as my ramps (have the same ones as you). ...and will add a small (and low) strip of wood just to keep the ramp in place. Thanks, just what I needed.
I solved the ramp sliding problem I was having by pushing the first few inches of tie down straps from Harbor Freight ratcheting tie downs through the top of each ramp's centering hole. I used the end of the strap that was just strap without the hook so its flat thin end could be pushed through the hole. This hole is there in the ramp to help you center the middle tire tread with the center of the ramp. That hole is located in the front of the ramp. Then tie a large enough knot so that the tie down strap will not to pull back through that hole if tugged on. (tie two knots on top of each other to get the knot large enough not to pull back through the hole) That knot should be on the under side of the ramp. Extend the end of the strap with the hook on it away from the ramps toward where the back tires will be rolling over the strap. I placed a few strips of duct tape over the straps to keep the straps in place and flat against my garage floor. When you roll up to the ramp the rear tires will be on top of the straps. Since the straps are also now attached to the front of the ramps the straps will keep the ramps from pushing forward when your front tires first make contact with the ramps. I did not want to drill holes in my garage floor. The industrial anti skid tape they put on stairs to keep you from slipping did not work either for me. The strap method works well. ---try to make a smooth even attempt up and onto ramps As with everything your results may vary. I accept no liability for anything that somehow does not go well.
I thought I'd chime in with a much more portable solution. Take some 2" wide ratchet straps. If lifting the front tire, attach one hook to the ramp, then run the strap parallel to the ramp long enough so the front and rear tires can run over it. The front tire will grip the strap long enough to get it started, and the rear tire will grip the strap holding the ramp in place while the front tires climbs the ramp. Its a simple solution that takes up no room in the shop.
What about if I need to back the rear of the car up the ramps? I must be able to get to the gas tank straps as one of them has broken loose and I need to see why. I had a disaster as the car fell off the ramp and on the passenger side the ramp ended up in front of the rear tire (I'm not even joking, it was awful).
YO!! My hair hurts trying to visualize and understand this method. I need to see this on a video. If Joe Biden read read your instructions he'd demolish his car and garage!!!
@@williamshovlin3383 dude its not that difficult to picture. You're simply laying the strap in-line with the ramp so that when your tires run over it, the rotational force of the tire when in drive is pulling the ramp into the tire. Therefore, it can't slide forward and away from the vehicle. Making sure the strap is long enough for the back tire to run over it ensures that the ramp can't slide because the weight of the rear tires are providing the pressure to anchor the ramp. The strap is hooked to the ramp.
@@harpoon_bakery162 it sounds to me like you backed up too fast over the ramp. In that case, nothing in my method prevents that from happening. You have to be careful and drive slow going up any ramp.
I'm having a different sliding problem. I bought these Black Widow ramps that you can pump up to 15.5 inches off the ground. However, when I try to drive up them with my front wheel drive GTI, the torque of the wheels just spits the ramps (usually just one of them) under the running board. I don't have LSD so maybe that compounds the problem, but I can't understand why they don't adhere some kind of rubber grip to the bottoms of automotive ramps. I shouldn't have to do it myself.
Hi, Aaron, and thanks for watching! Not on a surface which is too slick. You either need to increase the friction between the ramp and the floor or physically prevent the ramps from moving forward. Trust me, I tried the wedging technique many times before trying the solution in the video : )
Ramps work only if the surface you are working on agrees with the ramps, I leterally drove up and over my ramps, cracking one ramp and wedging it under my car, totally freaked me out. If you dont have a flat reliable surface to work with dont waste your time and risk damaging your car. Since I don't have my own space. I have to figure out an alternative. But I do like your idea regarding the planks and wood stops at the front. Ramp makers need to increase the rubber footings to decrease the sliding that occurs. Thats a huge safety concern going forward.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Richard! That would freak me out as well. I think aside from damage you risk injury if the surface you're working on isn't amenable to ramps or jacks. Stay safe, my man!
Wedge each ramp in front of the tire and slowly drive up the ramps-one foot on the brake pedal the other foot on the gas. when on top of ramps I like to shift into neutral and slyly release the brakes so the car can level itself on the rams-Put in park- apply parking brakes and chock the front and back of the rear tires.
Hi, Pete. Unfortunately, no matter how slowly you go, the ramps will not stay in place if there's not enough friction between the ramps and the surface they are on. Your method is also difficult with a manual transmission : )
Lumber is narrower than the ramp. It'll work for a while with a Fiesta, but I'd much rather have that extra structural integrity of the outer wall of the ramp - especially with a Crown Vic. Even then the ramp and all may still scoot away like almost happened to you 2:09 .
Agree - I comment on having wider plywood later in the video. Definitely not perfect - that would be a lift. But anything which increases the friction between the floor and the ramps should do the trick.
I tried that and it punched a huge hole right through the back of my wall, caused a gas leak and my house nearly exploded! Had to rush out and shut the main off and repair the gas line then the dry wall. Wife was pissed!
Evening, Rick - should also work. Anything which increases the friction between the ramps and the surface they are on. Didn't have large rubber mats on hand.
Hi, Duna. This is long past relevant for you, I'm sure, but just in case someone else has this same question, yes, this does work for RWD vehicles. Just used the same method with my F-150.
Good day, sir. Are you asking if it's safe or if there is room? I just used this method yesterday to help a friend change the oil in her Subaru. We were able to easily fit under the car. I would very much recommend placing jack stands any time you're crawling under a vehicle, and we did this yesterday as well.
Completely agree. However, I will say I've used these ramps with the plywood T shown in the video dozens of times and never once had them slide, even with the epoxy floors. Making them longer would just make them even more difficult to store.
@rckclmbr85 I totally agree about storage. Even though they would be thin enough to lay on edge against a wall. I wanted the plastic ramps so I could nest them together but I got a fantastic deal on metal ones. I think slipping is more noticeable on rwd cars because the front wheels are pushing instead of climbing. I set my car for snow and gave the gas short bursts and it went up easily. I'm going to stick 80 grit tape on them to see if it makes it easier. If not, (for fun) I'm going to drill a bunch of holes and use 1/4" nuts and bolts like ice racing tires lol. How's this,,,find a wide canvas hold down strap from a flatbed truck , rivet it to the edge of the ramp and let the wheel touch the strap first? I hate the sliding noise. Scares the bejeezus out of me! Lol
The exact ramps he used have a rubber piece at the front built right in because I have the exact same black plastic ramps (from Home Depot), and they DO NOT work on a slick floor. (concrete floor)
Appreciate the feedback, but the failure of your exact method is what led to making this video. On a slick surface, it just doesn't work - the tires would get, just as in the video, half way or less up the ramp and it would slip. I now see that I could have demostrated the failure mode more effectively showing your method, but the tip is equally valid either way.
I was doing that for almost 20 minutes today and I gave up. I would get 1/2 way up the ramps and then they would slide out from under the wheels of my truck.
@@rckclmbr85 ironically I found a trick to it today, I went to the dollar store and grabbed 2 of the foam mats and placed one under each ramp and it worked perfectly
Thanks for the suggestion, Frank. Question, though: if you're going to do all that, why not just use jack stands? I guess at the end of the job you can just back up instead of jacking up the vehicle and removing the stands.
My 2019 civic is way too low to put a Jack in from the front, leaving you to Jack each side up and place Jack stands, then when removing the stands I cant just remove the stands and lower the car with the Jack on the jacking point, you have to do one by one because the car will land on the Jack and it doesn't clear the car, it's factory height and the suspension isn't worn out either, with the ramps I'm hoping it will give me the clearance I need to quickly Jack up the car and place stands and remove them as well
Morning, Alfonso. I have the same issue with the Fiesta. I don't have a good method to solve the issue, unfortunately - it's just a pain in the rear end. Guess I'm just hoping to have a lift one day : \ Good luck!
This is a great idea, but for safety the plywood must be wider than the ramps! Edit: Rhino Ramps like yours have been documented to fail or split into multiple pieces. RUclips has a video describing the problem. Basically, Rhino Ramps are fatally designed with their built-in Grand Canyons, which can split and detach when under stress. Do your research on Rhino Ramps!
Mine are Rhino Ramps with those Grand Canyon towers, interestingly I was just looking at them. they are shorter than my other ramps and allow low clearance cars but don't give you as much room underneath the car. But OMG, I will never use them again, I had no idea they are failing , I could have been killed
Great tip. Your mechanical engineering degree is paying off.
Absolutely brilliant tip, I've tried all sorts to stop my ramps sliding on a gravel drive. Now gonna make myself a pair of these bad-boys!!
Thanks, Andy! These have been a game-changer for me with the epoxy floors.
I used to do that. I now just put the ramps on a pair of carpet remnants. A couple feet longer than the ramp so the tire rolls on the carpet first.
That'll definitely work - anything to increase the friction between the ramps and concrete. Thanks for the additional suggestion!
that is a good tip. getting ready to pour concrete in my workshop and did not know about the additive to make the floor less slick. thanks
Genius!! Thank you! Safer than having my kids hold them while I drive up 😊
LOL - happy to help, sir : )
Depends how much you like your kids...bah-hahaha. 🤪
J.K....Don't panic.
Hahaha
omg 🤣🤣🤣doing the same thing thats why looked for this video
Awesome trick. Base on your video, I'll make mine as wide as my ramps (have the same ones as you). ...and will add a small (and low) strip of wood just to keep the ramp in place. Thanks, just what I needed.
Very happy I could help! Thanks for watching!
I solved the ramp sliding problem I was having by pushing the first few inches of tie down straps from Harbor Freight ratcheting tie downs through the top of each ramp's centering hole. I used the end of the strap that was just strap without the hook so its flat thin end could be pushed through the hole.
This hole is there in the ramp to help you center the middle tire tread with the center of the ramp. That hole is located in the front of the ramp.
Then tie a large enough knot so that the tie down strap will not to pull back through that hole if tugged on. (tie two knots on top of each other to get the knot large enough not to pull back through the hole) That knot should be on the under side of the ramp.
Extend the end of the strap with the hook on it away from the ramps toward where the back tires will be rolling over the strap. I placed a few strips of duct tape over the straps to keep the straps in place and flat against my garage floor.
When you roll up to the ramp the rear tires will be on top of the straps. Since the straps are also now attached to the front of the ramps the straps will keep the ramps from pushing forward when your front tires first make contact with the ramps.
I did not want to drill holes in my garage floor. The industrial anti skid tape they put on stairs to keep you from slipping did not work either for me. The strap method works well. ---try to make a smooth even attempt up and onto ramps
As with everything your results may vary. I accept no liability for anything that somehow does not go well.
Clever solution, Gary - thanks for sharing!
Thanks, man.worked great.. makes sense when you see it, but I never would have thought of it.
Nice ! Why didn't I think of that? This is the solution I was looking for.
I thought I'd chime in with a much more portable solution.
Take some 2" wide ratchet straps. If lifting the front tire, attach one hook to the ramp, then run the strap parallel to the ramp long enough so the front and rear tires can run over it.
The front tire will grip the strap long enough to get it started, and the rear tire will grip the strap holding the ramp in place while the front tires climbs the ramp.
Its a simple solution that takes up no room in the shop.
What about if I need to back the rear of the car up the ramps? I must be able to get to the gas tank straps as one of them has broken loose and I need to see why. I had a disaster as the car fell off the ramp and on the passenger side the ramp ended up in front of the rear tire (I'm not even joking, it was awful).
YO!! My hair hurts trying to visualize and understand this method. I need to see this on a video. If Joe Biden read read your instructions he'd demolish his car and garage!!!
@@williamshovlin3383 dude its not that difficult to picture. You're simply laying the strap in-line with the ramp so that when your tires run over it, the rotational force of the tire when in drive is pulling the ramp into the tire. Therefore, it can't slide forward and away from the vehicle.
Making sure the strap is long enough for the back tire to run over it ensures that the ramp can't slide because the weight of the rear tires are providing the pressure to anchor the ramp. The strap is hooked to the ramp.
@@harpoon_bakery162 works the same way, just make sure the straps are under the tires.
@@harpoon_bakery162 it sounds to me like you backed up too fast over the ramp. In that case, nothing in my method prevents that from happening. You have to be careful and drive slow going up any ramp.
Thanks demonstrating, I was kinda confused. 👍
Brilliant! Thank you for posting this. It worked like a charm.
Glad I could help! Cheers!
Thanks for this idea! Worked out perfectly for me
need to try this, last time my little brother fwd car shot them under the frame and wrecked something
Putting a rubber welcome mat works as well
Very well demonstrated and great idea!!!
Thanks, William - happy to help!
This is a very good idea. Sometimes the ramps do not rise the car high enough. This way the car can be risen higher.
Thanks for the tip. Worked great!
Glad it helped!
Great idea, professor Ramper .!
Lol - thank you! Folks in the comments have come up with some pretty good alternatives as well, in case you don't have the scrap wood laying around.
Great idea. Only thing is the flat board should be a bit wider than ramps. To keep ramps flat on the grand.
Agreed they should be at least as wide as the ramps.
have an automoatic civic, instead of drive, would it be better to use the low gear as it has more torque?
Certainly won't hurt, but this puts so little load on the vehicle that I don't think you'll notice much of a difference.
I'm having a different sliding problem. I bought these Black Widow ramps that you can pump up to 15.5 inches off the ground. However, when I try to drive up them with my front wheel drive GTI, the torque of the wheels just spits the ramps (usually just one of them) under the running board. I don't have LSD so maybe that compounds the problem, but I can't understand why they don't adhere some kind of rubber grip to the bottoms of automotive ramps. I shouldn't have to do it myself.
fix the issue? Had that happen to me before with metal ramps.
Would wedging the ramps under your tires work like you did with the plywood?
Hi, Aaron, and thanks for watching! Not on a surface which is too slick. You either need to increase the friction between the ramp and the floor or physically prevent the ramps from moving forward.
Trust me, I tried the wedging technique many times before trying the solution in the video : )
Can't be done on a slick garage floor. mine is just concrete from the original pour when the home was built. Ramps are a PITA
I took a tredmill apart cut pieces bigger than my ramps from the roll mat stuff and put them under my ramps, they don't move anymore in any weather
Good suggestion - and recycling! : )
on a stick shift, is it possible I could burn the clutch out trying to get up ramps?
Evening. Anything's *possible*. But I think, unless you're a very new manual driver, it's pretty unlikely.
@@rckclmbr85 thanks for the feedback! Subscribed!
Nice!👍
Immobilizes the front of the ramp so It can't move and the back part is trapped under the wheel of the car so it can't slide either.
Thank you! I'll make a couple out of 2 x 12s.
Great video. Thanks!
Just get two rubber matts underneath. Works every time
Agreed - anything to increase friction. Some day I'll get to my actual goal of a lift : )
Do you have a link of ones from Amazon that you know for sure worked? (rubber mats)
Brilliant ! Thank you.
Ramps work only if the surface you are working on agrees with the ramps, I leterally drove up and over my ramps, cracking one ramp and wedging it under my car, totally freaked me out. If you dont have a flat reliable surface to work with dont waste your time and risk damaging your car. Since I don't have my own space. I have to figure out an alternative. But I do like your idea regarding the planks and wood stops at the front. Ramp makers need to increase the rubber footings to decrease the sliding that occurs. Thats a huge safety concern going forward.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Richard! That would freak me out as well. I think aside from damage you risk injury if the surface you're working on isn't amenable to ramps or jacks. Stay safe, my man!
Wedge each ramp in front of the tire and slowly drive up the ramps-one foot on the brake pedal the other foot on the gas. when on top of ramps I like to shift into neutral and slyly release the brakes so the car can level itself on the rams-Put in park- apply parking brakes and chock the front and back of the rear tires.
Hi, Pete. Unfortunately, no matter how slowly you go, the ramps will not stay in place if there's not enough friction between the ramps and the surface they are on. Your method is also difficult with a manual transmission : )
Might be an idea to push the button in on your handbrake when you rip it up
Great idea.
Awesome idea
Happy to help!
Maybe use grippy rubber mats?
awesome good
Lumber is narrower than the ramp. It'll work for a while with a Fiesta, but I'd much rather have that extra structural integrity of the outer wall of the ramp - especially with a Crown Vic. Even then the ramp and all may still scoot away like almost happened to you 2:09 .
Agree - I comment on having wider plywood later in the video. Definitely not perfect - that would be a lift. But anything which increases the friction between the floor and the ramps should do the trick.
Just use some 2x's bracing front of ramp to garage wall
Agreed that would also be a fine solution. Thanks for watching!
I tried that and it punched a huge hole right through the back of my wall, caused a gas leak and my house nearly exploded! Had to rush out and shut the main off and repair the gas line then the dry wall. Wife was pissed!
That's great, ❤
How about some simple rubber mats...
Evening, Rick - should also work. Anything which increases the friction between the ramps and the surface they are on. Didn't have large rubber mats on hand.
Almost like just making your own ramps lol.
Probably could silicone caulk the base instead too
Does this work for rear wheel drive car？
Hi, Duna. This is long past relevant for you, I'm sure, but just in case someone else has this same question, yes, this does work for RWD vehicles. Just used the same method with my F-150.
Can you get under it to change the oil
Good day, sir. Are you asking if it's safe or if there is room? I just used this method yesterday to help a friend change the oil in her Subaru. We were able to easily fit under the car. I would very much recommend placing jack stands any time you're crawling under a vehicle, and we did this yesterday as well.
just set something heavy in front of the ramps, I'm placing one heavy floor tile box, no slipping.
I use rubber Mats under the ramps, just came here to see what's else.
Ya, I think basically anything which increases friction between the floor and the ramps will do the trick.
If that plywood T reached under the rear tire (rwd cars), the front ramp would never slide
Completely agree. However, I will say I've used these ramps with the plywood T shown in the video dozens of times and never once had them slide, even with the epoxy floors. Making them longer would just make them even more difficult to store.
@rckclmbr85 I totally agree about storage. Even though they would be thin enough to lay on edge against a wall. I wanted the plastic ramps so I could nest them together but I got a fantastic deal on metal ones. I think slipping is more noticeable on rwd cars because the front wheels are pushing instead of climbing. I set my car for snow and gave the gas short bursts and it went up easily. I'm going to stick 80 grit tape on them to see if it makes it easier. If not, (for fun) I'm going to drill a bunch of holes and use 1/4" nuts and bolts like ice racing tires lol. How's this,,,find a wide canvas hold down strap from a flatbed truck , rivet it to the edge of the ramp and let the wheel touch the strap first? I hate the sliding noise. Scares the bejeezus out of me! Lol
Just attach a small rubber piece to the ramp at the entry point. Issue solved
The exact ramps he used have a rubber piece at the front built right in because I have the exact same black plastic ramps (from Home Depot), and they DO NOT work on a slick floor. (concrete floor)
No, they do not lol
My favorite part was hearing the e brake get wrenched into oblivion 🤣
Why are you taking a run at those ramps like that? Lol
Line them up, jam them under your wheels and slowly drive up them. No slip.
Appreciate the feedback, but the failure of your exact method is what led to making this video. On a slick surface, it just doesn't work - the tires would get, just as in the video, half way or less up the ramp and it would slip.
I now see that I could have demostrated the failure mode more effectively showing your method, but the tip is equally valid either way.
I was doing that for almost 20 minutes today and I gave up. I would get 1/2 way up the ramps and then they would slide out from under the wheels of my truck.
Yep - doesn't matter how careful you are; if there is too little friction between the ramps and the surface the ramps are on, they will slip.
@@rckclmbr85 ironically I found a trick to it today, I went to the dollar store and grabbed 2 of the foam mats and placed one under each ramp and it worked perfectly
Got a better method for you . Jack car up then place ramps under don't have to worry about slipping or over riding the ramps
Thanks for the suggestion, Frank. Question, though: if you're going to do all that, why not just use jack stands? I guess at the end of the job you can just back up instead of jacking up the vehicle and removing the stands.
@@rckclmbr85 That's all i ever use is jack stands been there done that over riding and slipping of ramps
Where's your sense of adventure, @@frankwoodman6496 ?? ; )
My 2019 civic is way too low to put a Jack in from the front, leaving you to Jack each side up and place Jack stands, then when removing the stands I cant just remove the stands and lower the car with the Jack on the jacking point, you have to do one by one because the car will land on the Jack and it doesn't clear the car, it's factory height and the suspension isn't worn out either, with the ramps I'm hoping it will give me the clearance I need to quickly Jack up the car and place stands and remove them as well
Morning, Alfonso. I have the same issue with the Fiesta. I don't have a good method to solve the issue, unfortunately - it's just a pain in the rear end. Guess I'm just hoping to have a lift one day : \
Good luck!
Why is your garage door closed while your car engine is running duh!!!!!! lolol
This is a great idea, but for safety the plywood must be wider than the ramps!
Edit: Rhino Ramps like yours have been documented to fail or split into multiple pieces. RUclips has a video describing the problem. Basically, Rhino Ramps are fatally designed with their built-in Grand Canyons, which can split and detach when under stress. Do your research on Rhino Ramps!
Bullshit - Never seen one fail and I personally have had them at their rated capacity many times. Have owned the same set for almost 30 years.
Mine are Rhino Ramps with those Grand Canyon towers, interestingly I was just looking at them. they are shorter than my other ramps and allow low clearance cars but don't give you as much room underneath the car. But OMG, I will never use them again, I had no idea they are failing , I could have been killed
what you did is a good design but those plastic ramps are garbage
Thanks! Not arguing that - they are not fancy, but they work for a small vehicle.
@@rckclmbr85 nope . crushed by toyota supra .. safe for gulf cart
Great video! Thank you!