Deglazing windows
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- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2020
- In this video, I am deglazing a metal window with relatively new glazing ( about 12 years old). It definitely does Not come off this easily most of the time!
Also remember to wear your safety glasses (because apparently I didn’t)😁 #windowglazing
I just bought a beautiful fixer upper with old steel windows that I'll have to restore. Having never done any window restoration before, your video was a GODSEND. I'll be documenting my process, too--I just hope my results look as great as yours. Thanks for the awesome info and for giving me the confidence to take on a job like this
That’s awesome!!! I love to see people repair, instead of replace! So much more character in original windows that is nearly impossible to replicate.
Look forward to seeing your progress! Let me know if there’s any way I can help!
Hi Elaine. Can you share your process please via a Google doc or something? Always good to have multiple references :) hope it went well!
Dude, and a deglazing video - you're a lifesaver! Thanks again, bless you!
😁Thank you!!! I would have liked to have shown my portable steam set up. It’s really just a cheap wallpaper remover with a different plumbing attachment, but steam will help soften it up if it’s old, hard glazing!!
Hello my friend ... I work like you on installing glass for windows, doors and shops .... I have seven years of experience in that ... It is a difficult and dangerous work, especially when I remove the dry mastic because in some cases you injure yourself and break the glass ... But I feel I am proud when I do my job and the customer is happy .... and I thank you for your videos ...
I need to remove something and I don't know if it is mastic or glaze. It holds the pieces of aluminum that surround my windows. They are 40 years old, dry, all broken and really hard. I think that it might feel like putty if it is heated. Would I use heat instead of a tool like he has to remove mine?
Do you have a face book ?
@@abbasab69 No, I am not on any social media.
@@nogoodwolf ok ..no problème.
@@nogoodwolf hello dear ...iam from Algeria...iam so sorry...but i want To travel for job ...
Thank you so much. I am going through this and have been watching all your videos. I would have liked a close-up of what you are doing, but one should be able to figure it out. I don't know why RUclips first suggested far less helpful videos before directing me to yours. Your 3 videos are all I need to have a much better idea. Thanks again.
I’m going to tackle this process on an old aluminum window that’s on a shed. It’s not a nice window but I would still like to keep it if I can. Your video helps a bunch. Thank you!
It’s always rewarding to take a window that’s not so nice, and make it nice👍 You can do it!!! If you run into any problems, feel free to ask. Thank you for watching! It can be a bit tedious to do this, but you’ll be satisfied when you’re finished, knowing that you fixed it yourself 👏
Also, please be careful with the glass! If the old glazing putty is hard as a rock, you can convert a $50.00 Wagner wallpaper remover into a portable steamer. It will soften the putty to make it easier to remove. I think I’ll post a short video tonight showing a few examples of it, so you can see👍
@@dooeydessimal8917 yes the old glazing is hard, cracked & breaking the glass scares me! I do have a wallpaper steamer/remover so great advice. But I’m keeping my hopes high and expectations low! Your comment that the putty if pliable made me less nervous. Thank you so much!
I have to glaze a ton of steel sash windows in an older home. There is glazing that is fairly easy to remove, and a lot that is hard as a rock. The glass is old, and has that unique waviness that isn’t in new glass panels. I really don’t want to crack and of the glass. Can I spot glaze? Removing just the loose stuff and putting new sarco dual glaze where it is missing? What is your opinion on this? Thank you!
You can but it doesn't come out as nice I use dap 33 you can use a heat gun on the really hard putty but you have to be careful not to get the glass to hot or it will Crack
Yeah, I have done it before that way. Sometimes you have to factor in the risk. Another way to loosen up the old stuff is to take a cheap wallpaper remover and get a plumbing attachment to point the steam in one location, and steam it
Thanks to you both
Thanks, Dooey! Your video (and subsequent comments) are so helpful! We’re remodeling a 70-year old home with steel casement windows and because it’s on a busy corner, really don’t want to take out the windows (also they are installed in block) - no reason to tempt thieves. It’s so good to be able to see what steps to take to work on metal windows IN PLACE. Thank you!
Thank you!!! I know that all circumstances are not the same, and there’s very little available online showing this situation. Steel windows can be challenging to remove also. Just make sure you look for and treat any areas of rust, and have fun with it👍😁
When taking the old glazing putty off, you will most likely run into the old wire clips that hold the glass in place.They’re typically pretty easily reset if you knock them out. But if you run into any problems, don’t hesitate to ask! It’s great to see people restoring their original windows, rather than replacing them
@@dooeydessimal8917 So far there has been 1 (!) clip - all that holds them in is the glazing compound. And the lead paint…never knew my COVID masks would come in so handy. The windows are the one cool feature on the house so we really want to save them.
That looks like a very cool building you are working on in this video. With the golden eagle talons overhead and the Art Deco fiddlehead motif beside the window. It's great to see those buildings get their original windows restored rather than replaced. Is it a historic building? Thanks for your other video about glazing in place, that was a huge help for me.
Thank you! Yes, it’s a little over 100 years old. County courthouse in South Texas. The summers are brutal down there, so maintenance becomes a critical issue. But it’s a beautiful building, well worth the efforts to keep it that way👍
Just curious....why are you replacing the glazing.putty? Is it degraded ? we are also in South Texas and know the sun is brutal. We are beginning a project where we are using salvaged metal casement windows some were on our building already and some we purchased at Picker's Paradise downtown San Antonio....
Yeah. There is no overhang on that building, which puts the hot side of the building in direct sun for a large art of the day. Reglazing (at least that side) on metal windows can be expected as maintenance, about every 10 years. A lot of it was not in horrible condition, and could have been fixed, rather than replaced. But they figured, might as well do all of it while I was there.
On metal windows, your best bet on putty would be the DAP 1012, or the Sarco DuelGlaze. I much prefer the DuelGlaze.
Waa, 1927 house with tons (at least 100) 9x6" panes. Makes vinyl replacement windows super appealing. No way my glaze is anything less than 50 yrs old.
Yay dooey !
I am a glazier in North Tx. Alot of our putty glaze windows are 'Steel Skeletons' big divided lite steel bay windows. The putty is thick, up to 1" in width. Its a nightmare de-glazing those. Do you have any tips for those?
I feel that pain!!!
Heat, preferably steam, is the best way to soften that stuff that I have found. I convert a cheap Wagner wallpaper remover to direct steam if it’s being done in place, or put in a steam box whenever I can
@dooeydessimal8917 You're awesome man. Thank you! You got a sub from me.
Thank you! Answered exactly what I was looking for about cleaning before glazing.
My windows are unpainted aluminum sashes from the late 50s. The back bedding doesn't look terrible, so can I just leave the glass intact and just reglaze?
I'm planning on using Sarco Dual Glaze. What would you recommend for primer and paint given I'm not painting the whole window, just enough to seal the glazing?
If you take it down to bare metal, you want to really make sure that it is clean, and use a DTM (direct to metal) primer.
I like Benjamin Moore primers. UltraSpec/SuperSpec are great primers that will work for your situation.
Nice call on the Sarco!!! 1000 times better than the Dap 1012 that most recommend for metal windows 👍
@@dooeydessimal8917 Awesome, thank you! Mine were actually never painted. They've always just been the bare aluminum. It doesn't look like the previous putty was ever painted. I saw there are some that advertised they don't need to be painted, but I didn't trust them. So I'm thinking as long as the metal behind the old putty looks good, I won't prime it and will just glaze over. But definitely will if you'd recommend doing that.
@@jamesb7290 you don’t get the same rust issues with aluminum as you do with steel. So I don’t see the need for primer underneath. But you are wise to not trust the (no paint needed) putty😂👍 That stuff will start cracking in 4-6 months with no paint protecting it!
Dooey,
I've got my steel frame, primed and painted. Glass is cut ready to go in. My question is, do I put alittle glaze on the frame BEFORE I put the window in, or should I use a bead of silicone around the edge, or just put the window with nothing on the frame, then glaze the outside as you've shown? Thank you.
You can certainly use the glazing to set th glass! Just put it in there first, press it down to where you have an even amount ( about an 8th inch) then fasten with the wires, or clips. You can use silicone, but it’s a pane in the glass to ever change out should you have to
When you clean the glass from the inside, just cut it off straight with the frame, and you can paint it when it dries👍
I just bought a 1960s ranch with original wood windows. I am disabled and cannot afford to replace all the windows, so I've decided to re-glaze them... problem is I cannot figure out how to get the windows out (necessary due to window location). The windows are wood, the slide on an aluminum track. When I removed the window trim the aluminum liner prevents me from removing the window. 😮 please help (lol) 😊
There’s a few different types of aluminum weather stripping that it might be. Is the aluminum put on with small nails? Or does it extend the entire length of the window jamb? Is it a rod, or is it mostly flat with some raised portions in it?
Always a way to do it, but different types take different methods . Glad to help if I can 👍
Any pointers with a wood frame? I don't think using a chisel would work quite as well... would be biting into the wood. I've been using a putty knife, but I'd sure love to be using something more aggressive, if only for the risk of damage to the wood. As-is, I've put in a number of gouges accidentally just with the putty knife.
It can be a major problem with wood windows for sure! My best recommendation would be to use steam, or a heat gun to soften it up a bit first. Some of that old wood is so brittle that it chips if you look at it wrong. But I haven’t found a power tool fo that yet
Sincerely, sir, how much is the residency permit for the purpose of working for you? My profession is glass installation and I work well at it
I'll be deglazing an old aluminum window frame (from '63) to replace a broken pane shortly. I presume it's OK to use a hammer with the chisel. The glazing is hard, old cement putty -- I think. 🤔
If you can get a Wagner wallpaper remover, and change the attachment on the end to direct the steam into one location, it will soften it up.
I have used a hammer with this before, but you increase the odds of breaking glass, which can also be dangerous of course. But if you’re careful it can be done. A heat gun sometimes works as well 👍
I wonder if just brushing the glazing with boiling hot water would help. Unfortunately, this is a second story job and I'll be up on a ladder. Can't remove these old prefab window frames/casings either. They were riveted at the factory and then installed as whole units. Well, I guess this will be another learning experience... 😁
@@spencehogg2410 I’ve never tried boiling water, but it seems like it could work.
But, yep! That’s going to be a project, you’ll probably remember for a long time!!!
What is holding the glass in? The spring clips?
These had the spring clips removed, and replaced with a small bracket, held in by a machine screw. It actually made it more difficult to keep the glazing putty straight, because they are bulky, and always tended to push out
Has anyone had to swap out a rotten wooden sill and broken cranks when doing a project like this?
Absolutely!
Replacement hardware can be tricky to find sometimes, especially today. But it’s definitely available.
And depending on the surroundings, sill replacement can be down right tricky. Sometimes it makes more sense to take the entire unit out, to access the sill. But if that is not an option, or if it’s too much hassle, there are some tricks to avoiding that.
What would you think of using an oscillating tool to remove the glaze?
It can definitely be done, but it dulls the blades very quickly, and there is an increased risk of breaking glass, or damaging the sash. But, if you’re careful, it saves a lot of physical labor