Needs to be mentioned that when using this memory saver and you unhook the + and - from the cars battery you still have to be careful as the + connector is still live and would shorten up when getting in contact with any grounded metal.
and presumably if you touch the terminals together on the crocodile clips on the memory saver, it's also still live so could blow a fuse on the OBD connector
Same here. As soon as he started fitting it I thought hang on, wheres the battery insulation cover?? My Astra has a battery cover. Useful in cold weather. Helps the battery to hold charge.
It's a sleeve to keep heat in the battery and a ok bit of kit but just leave the car running when you change the battery and the radio codes will stay in and all the stations will be saved as well just rap a rag around the terminals so they dont touch
As his is power the car from another battery I think it won’t make a lot of difference which terminal you removed because if he was to short the positive to the chassis he will blow his ECU up from the other battery current so it’s a very scary procedure having the car electric systems powered in that way I think I’d rather find the radio code out and have it all shut down properly and safely myself
@@neilmurphy845 well my VW caddy which essentially had the same radio didn’t require a code it was only the days of the fords and the Vauxhalls had radio codes now the radios are built-in to the dash they don’t think they bother with security codes anymore?
@@PaulsRoadshow don’t think these have codes no... well technically they do but only needed if units are swapped from one car to another... still a good video and a good thing to have...stops them moaning about losing the clock time, stored radio stations etc...
Years ago i worked in a motor factor and we used to connect a small motorcycle battery to the leads while disconnecting the main battery so the radio, alarm and any other electronic devices never lost power. Simple solution!
shows that its working. if every car made today got rid of it, people would nab these modern complicated head units and sell em for £500 a pop. look at the current cat converter thefts. did not think of tha did ya
@@CutLeRoc Some makes and models you can find a work around on youtube . The other way to do this battery swap is to just have a slave battery , a couple of leads with croc clips , hook the slave to the car leads before disconcerting the faulty battery . Just need to be a bit careful that you do not pull any leads off or short anything but you can potentially change the batter in the car park outside a motor factors . The terminals on a lot of cars have points where you can bolt on extra accessory leads , use those and its easy , no need for the ''tool''
@@MrTarmonbarry I've actually got an older version of this by draper but mine plugs into the cigarette lighter and uses a 9v battery. Only used it once many years ago on a Scorpio Cosworth I once had.
I recently also purchased a Bosch battery from Tayna Batteries. I was very impressed with speed of delivery, price, packing, and the battery itself. I will certainly use them in future. Interesting video, thanks.😀🇬🇧
these radio don't have radio code most car don't these day they get program with the car vin number and the radio request the vin from the body computer to make sure the vin matches if the vin matches then the radio will work if you took the radio out from that car and put it in a different car it will lock out or beep and it would need programing to the new car
Good to know, but I would say that RAC changed battery on daughter's Focus, (2002!), and she had to find the radio code. It was original radio - but older car, of course.
Newer radios are tied to the vin of the car, it will ask for a code until you turn on the ignition for the first time after changing battery. Once immobilizer is disabled, the radio will unlock.
I have a 2013 Fabia and never had a jacket from new. Also my battery has died and been changed but never had to do this luckily enough hence why I'm watching this as I'm curious about it.
There's little risk of shorting anything while changing the car battery out as the power being supplied by the external power source is protected from the master power circuits on the car by the fuses. If you do short something while changing the battery then you'll blow, usually, the master fuse and every other circuit will be protected, including those being powered from the external battery...
When I changed the battery in my Audi A4 I had to go into the ECU BCM and change the battery’s stored serial number in the coding using a scan tool I think it’s to tell the cars ECU that you’ve changed the battery for a new one so the charging rate is reset I don’t know whether this is true it’s Skoda cars I thought you have a scan tool have a look and see if your has a battery update procedure ? As my VAC101 has a special option for doing this it’s called coding the battery
My E70 X5 battery failed, it had been replaced by the previous owner at a well known high-street garage ahem... "SwiftFit" and they didn't code it to the car which eventually killed it. I found out that new batteries need to be coded to the car which was news to me. I miss the good old days of a 5 minute battery swap.
Did you do the ecu battery adaptation using your scan tool afterwards? Another great video, keep them coming. I enjoyed watching your toolbox tour ones again while you tube sesrching
I see the Value Analysis boys at VAG production design have been busy with the battery compartment - no hinged battery cover on the battery on the 2012 model - not much protection for the heavy duty link fuses. My 2003 saloon has a lovely cover with the link fuses integral, to keep it nice and warm in winter and to protect the link fuses from "Freeze-thaw" effect. So, lots of lovely "early onset" failure jobs created for the recovery and breakdown boys when the link on the starter motor breaks (Usually the first to go). Amazing how manufacturers, as they go futher into each models production run find new ways of economising on the design and saving even more oennies to contribute to VAGs bulging coffers. Would the other alternative to buying the £20 OBD device to record the radio code, be to borrow a VCDS cable and a laptop or tablet set-up with VCDS software. Try the Briskoda website. Its also useful to have a VCDS or OBD computer interface available, as you can then cancel any error codes that pop-up in the EMU/ECU as a result of either the battery depleting and outputing low voltage or/and the actual act of removing and replacing the battery. Be assured these error codes do arise and they will, if left unaddressed effect some aspect of the cars operation. As a result of 2 months lack of use due to lockdown, my Fabia's battery went flat. VCDS scan prior to battery removal, showed no error codes other than one oermanent one for the aircon which has been out of use for a long time. On re-installing the battery after a re-charge, the car was taken for a run and found to be over-fuelling at high revs (Accelerating uphill, foot-off) When subsequently scanned on VCDS, an "Excess Flow" fault was reported in the EGR and additionally in both door control modules. These fault codes were subsequently cancelled using VCDS - its worth noting that both of these faullts hadn't been reported before this series of events. After another run, a subsequent VCDS scan showed the error codes didn't reoccur. It is to be oresumed that just the low to non-existent voltage of a discharged battery or/and the electrical effects caused by its removal and replacement by a fully charged item were sufficient to corrupt the "Variables" section of the EMU memory. That said, the door card modules (Which hold the ekectronic control gear for the electric windows and central locking outposts)and EGR, which both include switch connections always get a bit sticky after a period of disuse, or in the case if the electric window switches, this can iccur if moisture seeps in.
This tool will be an ass saver when you work on the Mondeo(new project car). There are ECU's for everything in that car and losing the memory from them is not good. Main ECU Gearbox ECU Radio ECU Heater Matrix ECU I know on the Mondo's that you can do the live feed through the cigarette lighter.
Just changed the battery in my R55 Mini (clubman). Has factory radio/satnav. Read through the manuals and the changing of it was not as straightforward as you would think! The battery needed to be registered to the car!! Had to buy a tool to register it,. It was still cheaper than taking to the garage and now I have another tool.... anyway the radio code is stored on the ECU (or alike) and after driving the BMW, Mini says that wait at least 15 minutes after driving so the car learns all stored data which includes the code for the radio. All cars are different just thought it was mentioning. Like the Chanel and content. Thanks.
Hang-on. maybe I'm being a bit harsh on VAG. I think I can see one design improvement that VAG appear to have made to the bonnet scuttle area ( Immediately, underneath the wipers/windscreen). They've extended the width of the plastic gutter to cover what, on my model are the drain holes into the engine compartment. The design of the scuttle and drain holes on my 2003 model are open to the elements and collect all msnner of leaves and crud, which, if not cleared in a timely way, form a lovely agricultural tilth in the oainted scuttle bottom. A right breeding ground for corrosion.
Over thinking it tbh ... just keep a set of jump leads attached and connected to a spare battery whilst removing from the battery terminals. Works the same and no need to faff checking you have a fully charged battery👍 P.S. think it’s been mentioned, but you forgot to put the Battery sleeve back on🥴
No need to buy a special tool to plug into OBD port. Just connect any 12v supply to the car at any convenient spot - many cars have posts for this. And put the battery sleeve back on. And code the battery to the ECU if required (probably not on this vehicle but the OEM battery did have the code on it so maybe it is necessary) If a new battery is not coded to the ECU it will die very very quickly.
Hi I have only recently discovered your channel,Great Stuff man!! Just a word about Tayna batteries they come in at a good price. The issue is if you have a problem they wont replace it. I bought one with a five year guarantee it failed after nine months I sent photos, e mails, videos nothing worked. They want you to send it back so that they can test it and come up with a excuse not to replace it. It defeats the object I now buy locally if it fails just take it back. Hope your ok you've not posted for a while. Thanks Mike
Hello, could you please share a photo of your white interiors in red fabia? I'm thinking of changing from black to white, but I can't imagine it in a red car. Thank you very much. I did not find this combination elsewhere.
Don't all the VAGs check that they're in the same car by talking to other modules over CAN bus when power is reconnected? I know the Gamma radio in my Passat did.
original radio/navi is paired with car. so if you have disconnected battery, the first thing after reconnect ist to turn the key. then the radio will scan if it is still in the original car and decodes itself.
Got to repeat what a number of other people have said. Disconnect the battery - Negative first, then the positive. Installing - Positive first, then the negative (negative earth vehicles). Again as others have stated, with the OBD code saver connected, the positive battery clamp will be 'live', so will need to be isolated from any contact with the body or engine.
You could buy a smart charger for car battery, almost same price and it has built in option for supporting all vehicle electronics when changing battery. Anyway, another interesting video..
Why spend money if u got a jump start use that contact earth on body connect positive to wire. I change my battery on lexus 2009 in 2018 nothing went no code need afterwards as got factory radio with sat sav
23 years of working in the Motor Trade I never needed a code saver for a Skoda? I have bought 2nd hand original skoda head units to replace aftermarket ones and still never needed a code. I know that some cars do need a saver plugged in before anyone says it including some other old VAG cars but never a Skoda. Good video all the same to make people aware and no harm using a saver anyway.
You didn't mention that usually sealed batteries have a vent hole which is normally blanked for transportation and therefore should be removed prior to fitting. Seems a good piece of kit though and saves messing around with jump leads etc.
Useful tool but I normally just hook some jump leads up to another car if I need to. I was under the impression that most cars are coded to the body computer so issues like this arise if you swap the radio to another car. I could be wrong, it has been known 😄 Also, when a car has a decent battery box, I put the receipt in a large self seal bag and keep it underneath the battery, not lost one yet but the battery always dies after the guarantee.
That is handy. seen that in motor factors and didn't know what it was for but that's is handy ill get one and its there if I ever need to disconnect battery off some other car with no radio code.
Good video, I've got a job and a half to do on my volvo s60 p2 headlamp bulbs, I'm replacing them with h7 led lights but bumper off job by the looks of things worst case scenario. Wish me luck guys, I'm going to give long nose pliers, inspection mirror and extendable magnet first
Cant remember if the S60 P2 is one of them but a lot of the Volvo's of that generation you can just pull up some metal rods and the headlight can be pulled out
@@JamieS420 one side in 😂. What a pig I've been defeated by the weather just one side to do. I've also got to work out which way the cob leds should face to the side or up and down
@@chucky2316 it's a guaranteed, as soon as you start doing something, the heavens open 🤦♂️ most bulbs have a tab that means they will only locate 1 way so if you can still rotate the bulb or it feels like its sitting at an angle, it's not in correctly. Good luck 👍😉
Useful video but on a VAG car, the canbus radio knows its in the right car and will not need a code even if you physically take the radio out and put it back in again. It will however need a code if it goes into a different car
Modern car radios only need the code to start ups after a battery change or full loss of power, they very rarely lose the stored settings/radio stations either, unless left without power for 24/48 hrs, they have capacitors to store the minute power needed to keep the settings etc.
Simple solution connect a booster pack to the battery terminals before you fully remove them from the dead battery and then fit replacement battery in place. ..job done.
I have 2012 Vauxhall insignia with factory radio and have disconnected battery many times and never needed to re enter code so you may find you don’t need to do that on all cars
That's a great a tool but is much easier just to get a set of jump start cables hook them up to the battery terminals before taking them off and then hook the other end to a second battery or my case the run round then it's all good has to be done with Mercedes and any high end vehicles great tool though
When I changed the AGM battery on my Octavia I had to code the new one in with VAGCOM. A real pain. What happened to the good old days of a straight swap?
I'm guessing it had the stop/start function? The car monitors the age of the battery and will taper off the way it uses stop/start as the battery ages to make sure it can still start the car after killing the engine at traffic lights. Coding it tells the ECU you've fitted a new battery so it can fully utilise the capacity of the new battery.
Only think you forgot to mention is that the car live battery terminal remains live when the obd2 memory saver is connected and you have to ensure that the terminal does not touch any metal part of the car chassis
all vag and skoda have the radio code built in for that car dont matter if you disconnect the batter 12 times day that radio will not looz its code on the other hand if you take the radio out of that car and put it in another skoda then you will need you code its like peugeot and citroen have the same kinda setup you have to program it into the ecu
What we do in work about the radio codes is to remove the battery while car is running and put the new one in keeps the radio codes and don’t worry car will not die for a good while
Radio code not a problem have a stop start car put new battery in and you need to tell the car or it will not charge it right and your hard earned cash will be wasted
these are a good little tool, I bought one recently [ebay, think it was a fiver] to change the battery on our Pug308, I recently had to change battery on my Grande Punto as well and I lost all the menu settings, was a right faff to set it all back up, didnt need a radio code though and strangely on that it kept it stations in memory. I seem to have a box full of various OBD2 things.
great vid I was shouting James put the sleeve back on lol...
So was I... Lol.. Good bit of kit.
Needs to be mentioned that when using this memory saver and you unhook the + and - from the cars battery you still have to be careful as the + connector is still live and would shorten up when getting in contact with any grounded metal.
and presumably if you touch the terminals together on the crocodile clips on the memory saver, it's also still live so could blow a fuse on the OBD connector
@@timprice5 yup.. I would think the instructions say to connect to the battery first, then the obd port.
I was yelling at the screen you forgot the battery surround thingy. :-)
Same here. As soon as he started fitting it I thought hang on, wheres the battery insulation cover?? My Astra has a battery cover. Useful in cold weather. Helps the battery to hold charge.
It's a sleeve to keep heat in the battery and a ok bit of kit but just leave the car running when you change the battery and the radio codes will stay in and all the stations will be saved as well just rap a rag around the terminals so they dont touch
I was saying _"it's best practice to connect the red wire first"_
You obviously must have heard me...
Classic mistake, always disconnect negative before going anywhere near positive.
As his is power the car from another battery I think it won’t make a lot of difference which terminal you removed because if he was to short the positive to the chassis he will blow his ECU up from the other battery current so it’s a very scary procedure having the car electric systems powered in that way I think I’d rather find the radio code out and have it all shut down properly and safely myself
@@PaulsRoadshow Yah that would scare me to I'd rather play it safe especially if it's cheap enough to the code.
@@neilmurphy845 well my VW caddy which essentially had the same radio didn’t require a code it was only the days of the fords and the Vauxhalls had radio codes now the radios are built-in to the dash they don’t think they bother with security codes anymore?
@@PaulsRoadshow Yah good old engineers making things more complicated than they have to be.
@@PaulsRoadshow don’t think these have codes no... well technically they do but only needed if units are swapped from one car to another... still a good video and a good thing to have...stops them moaning about losing the clock time, stored radio stations etc...
just letting you no buddy theirs no need for the tool or jumper pack, just jump leads from another battery works fine, good vid👍
Thanks to you! :) Was about to ask/ suggest that myself. I'd only use the tool once, maybe. :) I'd guess £30 ... sort of touch.
Years ago i worked in a motor factor and we used to connect a small motorcycle battery to the leads while disconnecting the main battery so the radio, alarm and any other electronic devices never lost power. Simple solution!
Why do radios still have codes? When was the last time you heard of someone stealing a factory unit?
shows that its working. if every car made today got rid of it, people would nab these modern complicated head units and sell em for £500 a pop. look at the current cat converter thefts. did not think of tha did ya
@@treehouse7861 Nope - most codes can be purchased for around £10 online so no deterrent there i'm afraid
@@CutLeRoc my honda needed one and even the dealers had trouble unlocking, let alone an ebay code. have u bought one?
@@CutLeRoc Some makes and models you can find a work around on youtube . The other way to do this battery swap is to just have a slave battery , a couple of leads with croc clips , hook the slave to the car leads before disconcerting the faulty battery . Just need to be a bit careful that you do not pull any leads off or short anything but you can potentially change the batter in the car park outside a motor factors . The terminals on a lot of cars have points where you can bolt on extra accessory leads , use those and its easy , no need for the ''tool''
@@MrTarmonbarry I've actually got an older version of this by draper but mine plugs into the cigarette lighter and uses a 9v battery. Only used it once many years ago on a Scorpio Cosworth I once had.
I recently also purchased a Bosch battery from Tayna Batteries. I was very impressed with speed of delivery, price, packing, and the battery itself. I will certainly use them in future. Interesting video, thanks.😀🇬🇧
Tanya battery’s are brilliant! I will use them in the future. Very quick next day delivery.
Had my battery off my 12 plate skoda for 2 days, put it back after a full charge, didn’t need a code or loose any memory.
yep same with my golf aswell the code is in the ecu if yoy change the radio into another car you need a code but not for the car it came out off
same with my 2012 fabia too.
these radio don't have radio code most car don't these day they get program with the car vin number and the radio request the vin from the body computer to make sure the vin matches if the vin matches then the radio will work if you took the radio out from that car and put it in a different car it will lock out or beep and it would need programing to the new car
Yep radios are linked to the cars, don't need a code
This^^^ just done my 2014 Passat no issue no battery saver.
Good to know, but I would say that RAC changed battery on daughter's Focus, (2002!), and she had to find the radio code. It was original radio - but older car, of course.
@@Ru556 yeah older car will but modern car like the skoda don't need it
cool tool but why waste the money on it lol, jump leads or charger to the terminals on the car, take battery out and reconnect and bingo....
The stereo code is stored on the ecu on most modern cars , if its the genuine stereo that came with the car
Correct. My 2008 Fabia did not need any re-coding, everything was remembered
You don’t really need any of this gizmos. All you need is jump leads and you can replace battery without worrying about radio codes
Yes many a time done it that way but I’ve had it occasionally pop off then lose everything this hopefully can’t happen
These don’t lose radio codes anyway James - good practise anyway but I’ve done loads - fabias / polos don’t lose them
Newer radios are tied to the vin of the car, it will ask for a code until you turn on the ignition for the first time after changing battery. Once immobilizer is disabled, the radio will unlock.
Only thing missing is the battery "jacket"....
Yes I noticed that he had missed it off lol
He mentioned it and put it on at the end.
Watch the whole video 😅
@@bob900868 yes I did notice that :-)
I have a 2013 Fabia and never had a jacket from new. Also my battery has died and been changed but never had to do this luckily enough hence why I'm watching this as I'm curious about it.
Vag radio codes are available on ebay for £5...never had an issues when changing battery and radio forgetting the code on either my golf mk5 or 6 🤷♂️
Did that tool cost more than a radio code you can buy ?
@@RumpleXstillXskin probably
@@RumpleXstillXskin yeah the Draper one he has is like £25
Who pays £5 for a radio code ? You get them for free on google !
@@samconnor9990 vag cars you have to use the serial number, you can't get them for free
Keep the content coming James! 👊🏻
This device does not seem reliable and doggy to me. Especially with the risk of shorting something while changing the battery. No thanks.
There's little risk of shorting anything while changing the car battery out as the power being supplied by the external power source is protected from the master power circuits on the car by the fuses. If you do short something while changing the battery then you'll blow, usually, the master fuse and every other circuit will be protected, including those being powered from the external battery...
When I changed the battery in my Audi A4 I had to go into the ECU BCM and change the battery’s stored serial number in the coding using a scan tool I think it’s to tell the cars ECU that you’ve changed the battery for a new one so the charging rate is reset I don’t know whether this is true it’s Skoda cars I thought you have a scan tool have a look and see if your has a battery update procedure ? As my VAC101 has a special option for doing this it’s called coding the battery
This is not a stop/start car so no battery management to be able to reset
vag cars original radio codes are tied to the ecu, good tool for other cars though
same with honda
Wish it was that easy on a e60 5 series lol. Good stuff James, you showed how to do it with the new memory saver tool, job done.
Wen new video on st220 mate
My E70 X5 battery failed, it had been replaced by the previous owner at a well known high-street garage ahem... "SwiftFit" and they didn't code it to the car which eventually killed it. I found out that new batteries need to be coded to the car which was news to me. I miss the good old days of a 5 minute battery swap.
I change my battery on a 2009 Passat and I didn’t use anything and there was no need for code or anything for radio
Did you do the ecu battery adaptation using your scan tool afterwards?
Another great video, keep them coming. I enjoyed watching your toolbox tour ones again while you tube sesrching
I've heard that you can do this process through using a jumper pack with cigarette lighter wire so you don't lose ECU info and radio
no need for the tool or jumper pack, just jump leads from another battery works fine
maxthecaddy battery leads from another battery and connect to what?
Just changed battery on my sons octavia. Didnt need a code after. Its only if you put a different radio from another car
I see the Value Analysis boys at VAG production design have been busy with the battery compartment - no hinged battery cover on the battery on the 2012 model - not much protection for the heavy duty link fuses. My 2003 saloon has a lovely cover with the link fuses integral, to keep it nice and warm in winter and to protect the link fuses from "Freeze-thaw" effect. So, lots of lovely "early onset" failure jobs created for the recovery and breakdown boys when the link on the starter motor breaks (Usually the first to go).
Amazing how manufacturers, as they go futher into each models production run find new ways of economising on the design and saving even more oennies to contribute to VAGs bulging coffers.
Would the other alternative to buying the £20 OBD device to record the radio code, be to borrow a VCDS cable and a laptop or tablet set-up with VCDS software. Try the Briskoda website.
Its also useful to have a VCDS or OBD computer interface available, as you can then cancel any error codes that pop-up in the EMU/ECU as a result of either the battery depleting and outputing low voltage or/and the actual act of removing and replacing the battery. Be assured these error codes do arise and they will, if left unaddressed effect some aspect of the cars operation.
As a result of 2 months lack of use due to lockdown, my Fabia's battery went flat. VCDS scan prior to battery removal, showed no error codes other than one oermanent one for the aircon which has been out of use for a long time. On re-installing the battery after a re-charge, the car was taken for a run and found to be over-fuelling at high revs (Accelerating uphill, foot-off) When subsequently scanned on VCDS, an "Excess Flow" fault was reported in the EGR and additionally in both door control modules. These fault codes were subsequently cancelled using VCDS - its worth noting that both of these faullts hadn't been reported before this series of events. After another run, a subsequent VCDS scan showed the error codes didn't reoccur.
It is to be oresumed that just the low to non-existent voltage of a discharged battery or/and the electrical effects caused by its removal and replacement by a fully charged item were sufficient to corrupt the "Variables" section of the EMU memory.
That said, the door card modules (Which hold the ekectronic control gear for the electric windows and central locking outposts)and EGR, which both include switch connections always get a bit sticky after a period of disuse, or in the case if the electric window switches, this can iccur if moisture seeps in.
in poland we have online shop similar to ebay, it's called ALLEGRO there you can buy any radio code for up to 5 pound
This tool will be an ass saver when you work on the Mondeo(new project car). There are ECU's for everything in that car and losing the memory from them is not good.
Main ECU
Gearbox ECU
Radio ECU
Heater Matrix ECU
I know on the Mondo's that you can do the live feed through the cigarette lighter.
Did you ever do the rusty wheel arches on the mondeo. I know you bought a welder, I was interested seeing you doing them.
Just changed the battery in my R55 Mini (clubman). Has factory radio/satnav. Read through the manuals and the changing of it was not as straightforward as you would think! The battery needed to be registered to the car!!
Had to buy a tool to register it,. It was still cheaper than taking to the garage and now I have another tool.... anyway the radio code is stored on the ECU (or alike) and after driving the BMW, Mini says that wait at least 15 minutes after driving so the car learns all stored data which includes the code for the radio. All cars are different just thought it was mentioning.
Like the Chanel and content. Thanks.
Hang-on. maybe I'm being a bit harsh on VAG. I think I can see one design improvement that VAG appear to have made to the bonnet scuttle area ( Immediately, underneath the wipers/windscreen). They've extended the width of the plastic gutter to cover what, on my model are the drain holes into the engine compartment. The design of the scuttle and drain holes on my 2003 model are open to the elements and collect all msnner of leaves and crud, which, if not cleared in a timely way, form a lovely agricultural tilth in the oainted scuttle bottom. A right breeding ground for corrosion.
Could’ve just joined the support battery to the battery connectors via jump leads while changing it out and it would’ve done the same thing🤷♂️
Over thinking it tbh ... just keep a set of jump leads attached and connected to a spare battery whilst removing from the battery terminals. Works the same and no need to faff checking you have a fully charged battery👍
P.S. think it’s been mentioned, but you forgot to put the Battery sleeve back on🥴
No need to buy a special tool to plug into OBD port. Just connect any 12v supply to the car at any convenient spot - many cars have posts for this. And put the battery sleeve back on. And code the battery to the ECU if required (probably not on this vehicle but the OEM battery did have the code on it so maybe it is necessary) If a new battery is not coded to the ECU it will die very very quickly.
Hi I have only recently discovered your channel,Great Stuff man!! Just a word about Tayna batteries they come in at a good price. The issue is if you have a problem they wont replace it. I bought one with a five year guarantee it failed after nine months I sent photos, e mails, videos nothing worked. They want you to send it back so that they can test it and come up with a excuse not to replace it. It defeats the object I now buy locally if it fails just take it back. Hope your ok you've not posted for a while. Thanks Mike
Hello, could you please share a photo of your white interiors in red fabia? I'm thinking of changing from black to white, but I can't imagine it in a red car. Thank you very much. I did not find this combination elsewhere.
Don't all the VAGs check that they're in the same car by talking to other modules over CAN bus when power is reconnected?
I know the Gamma radio in my Passat did.
original radio/navi is paired with car. so if you have disconnected battery, the first thing after reconnect ist to turn the key. then the radio will scan if it is still in the original car and decodes itself.
Old battery has oem part number on it, so most likely original
Got to repeat what a number of other people have said. Disconnect the battery - Negative first, then the positive. Installing - Positive first, then the negative (negative earth vehicles). Again as others have stated, with the OBD code saver connected, the positive battery clamp will be 'live', so will need to be isolated from any contact with the body or engine.
You could buy a smart charger for car battery, almost same price and it has built in option for supporting all vehicle electronics when changing battery. Anyway, another interesting video..
I have always just used jump leads from an external battery, great video very informative 👍
He had a spare battery,so why did he need that draper tool at all?
@@iancovid19hamilton69 He is still a novice and likes his new gadgets lol, You can also back feed the system with 12v through the cigarette lighter,
Yeah mate,lucky it was Draper,instead of Yum lol.
Got my electronics head on and thinking you just need to connect another battery across the old one and replace the old one.
@@armunro that's what we are on about, just connect the spare battery with jump leads to the cars battery terminal then remove old battery
Why spend money if u got a jump start use that contact earth on body connect positive to wire.
I change my battery on lexus 2009 in 2018 nothing went no code need afterwards as got factory radio with sat sav
23 years of working in the Motor Trade I never needed a code saver for a Skoda?
I have bought 2nd hand original skoda head units to replace aftermarket ones and still never needed a code.
I know that some cars do need a saver plugged in before anyone says it including some other old VAG cars but never a Skoda.
Good video all the same to make people aware and no harm using a saver anyway.
That looks like the original battery, I have one that looks the same on my vw tiguan (only bigger).
You didn't mention that usually sealed batteries have a vent hole which is normally blanked for transportation and therefore should be removed prior to fitting. Seems a good piece of kit though and saves messing around with jump leads etc.
Nice tool but you just start the car and then change battery so generator just make about 13v so you just waste money :D
2004 Audi A4 TDI - no need for code unless you're putting the radio into another vehicle.
Definitely original battery. I thought the secondary battery is from the mk4 mondeo,
Just connect a battery charger to the leads so when you disconnect from battery you still have power, no need for the radio code....simples 🙄
Useful tool but I normally just hook some jump leads up to another car if I need to. I was under the impression that most cars are coded to the body computer so issues like this arise if you swap the radio to another car.
I could be wrong, it has been known 😄
Also, when a car has a decent battery box, I put the receipt in a large self seal bag and keep it underneath the battery, not lost one yet but the battery always dies after the guarantee.
Thank you for this video very helpful recently bought a Skoda Octavia need to change the battery radio code is missing so going to use your method
That is handy. seen that in motor factors and didn't know what it was for but that's is handy ill get one and its there if I ever need to disconnect battery off some other car with no radio code.
Good video, I've got a job and a half to do on my volvo s60 p2 headlamp bulbs, I'm replacing them with h7 led lights but bumper off job by the looks of things worst case scenario. Wish me luck guys, I'm going to give long nose pliers, inspection mirror and extendable magnet first
Cant remember if the S60 P2 is one of them but a lot of the Volvo's of that generation you can just pull up some metal rods and the headlight can be pulled out
@@JamieS420 I wish I had the pull up tabs Jamie. It's going to be a tough one
@@JamieS420 one side in 😂. What a pig I've been defeated by the weather just one side to do. I've also got to work out which way the cob leds should face to the side or up and down
@@chucky2316 it's a guaranteed, as soon as you start doing something, the heavens open 🤦♂️ most bulbs have a tab that means they will only locate 1 way so if you can still rotate the bulb or it feels like its sitting at an angle, it's not in correctly. Good luck 👍😉
Skoda and a majority of vws don’t require radio codes when reconnecting battery’s.
Did you remember to plug the ecu saver in when you did took the battery off the second time? That would have been funny if you forgot and filmed it 🤣
Useful video but on a VAG car, the canbus radio knows its in the right car and will not need a code even if you physically take the radio out and put it back in again. It will however need a code if it goes into a different car
have you tryed looking online because my dad has a 2004 skoda fabia mk1 1.4tdi and i found the radio code online
Modern car radios only need the code to start ups after a battery change or full loss of power, they very rarely lose the stored settings/radio stations either, unless left without power for 24/48 hrs, they have capacitors to store the minute power needed to keep the settings etc.
Simple solution connect a booster pack to the battery terminals before you fully remove them from the dead battery and then fit replacement battery in place. ..job done.
May be you could use a trickle charger on the battery terminals to keep power to the ECU !!!!!
Nice video... useless toll though... with a skoda with a factory fitted stereo at least... (as far as I know )
I have 2012 Vauxhall insignia with factory radio and have disconnected battery many times and never needed to re enter code so you may find you don’t need to do that on all cars
What happened to you ? Like your content having just found it. Hope you're doing ok 🤔
That's deffo a VAG battery that came off so it's very likely that was the original.
Surely you could have got round this using a jump pack, or a third battery?
If you have the engine running and quickly disconnect the battery and fit the new battery, that works
Plug your scan tool in and code in a new battery so it gets full charge all VAG CARS need this
A drill battery with two terminals straight onto battery clams would have done it just to give it enough power without having to buy anything
Vw uses different brand names batteries
Like exide moll vera, but thats for sure an original battery
Would clipping the terminals from a booster unit to the car battery terminals work
That's a great a tool but is much easier just to get a set of jump start cables hook them up to the battery terminals before taking them off and then hook the other end to a second battery or my case the run round then it's all good has to be done with Mercedes and any high end vehicles great tool though
When I changed the AGM battery on my Octavia I had to code the new one in with VAGCOM. A real pain. What happened to the good old days of a straight swap?
I'm guessing it had the stop/start function? The car monitors the age of the battery and will taper off the way it uses stop/start as the battery ages to make sure it can still start the car after killing the engine at traffic lights. Coding it tells the ECU you've fitted a new battery so it can fully utilise the capacity of the new battery.
@@peeprox1991 Exactly that. Also cost £140.
Only think you forgot to mention is that the car live battery terminal remains live when the obd2 memory saver is connected and you have to ensure that the terminal does not touch any metal part of the car chassis
It's always a good idea to write the code on a sticker on the back of the radio
Surely that defeats the object of an anti-theft code
@@ianmackay4558 who is going to steal a stock radio or any radio in 2021 maybe in the 80s and 90s. They take the whole car nowadays
all vag and skoda have the radio code built in for that car dont matter if you disconnect the batter 12 times day that radio will not looz its code on the other hand if you take the radio out of that car and put it in another skoda then you will need you code its like peugeot and citroen have the same kinda setup you have to program it into the ecu
Why did you not start the car before changing the. Battery because that would have save money on that tool and this does the same job
Might be very handy if I have to change the battery in my merc as supposedly you need to do what you did
What we do in work about the radio codes is to remove the battery while car is running and put the new one in keeps the radio codes and don’t worry car will not die for a good while
😂 all those sauces!
you bought a "tool" to maintain a live feed ?? do they not have wire and stuff where you come from ?
Tanya batteries are very good value with excellent customer service 👍
Radio code not a problem have a stop start car put new battery in and you need to tell the car or it will not charge it right and your hard earned cash will be wasted
I guess you did this, but did you remove the tape that covers holes on the new battery?
You can change battery with the car running the alternator keeps life in the system
you do not need the code when doing the battery on these, only required if the radio is removed and fitted in another car,
Great content mate but you forgot the battery sleeve🤦🏾♂️
Just clip a jump pack on the battery leads so the car never loses power
Did you sell the other Škoda you did the gearbox on?
Some vehicles print the code with a bunch of others in the boot or other ID plates.
What about Fiesta videos? Are they gonna continue?
Been a sub for a long time but dying to see the wee fiesta being done are we going to see this anytime soon?
I bought one recently that can be plugged into the mains, as an alternative to a spare 12v Battery.
Good tools to have.
Draper is a good make too 👍
So what happened with this channel?
Great content it s just stopped ?
I actually got one of those tools I haven’t used it yet ,thanks for the great information
When's the Fiesta project making a return?
these are a good little tool, I bought one recently [ebay, think it was a fiver] to change the battery on our Pug308, I recently had to change battery on my Grande Punto as well and I lost all the menu settings, was a right faff to set it all back up, didnt need a radio code though and strangely on that it kept it stations in memory. I seem to have a box full of various OBD2 things.
Hey dude! Do you have Instagram?