This is why I love RUclips. One of my biggest time wasters is figuring things out with trial and error. Not only did you find multiple best ways to clamp things, you saved me the time to make the same mistakes and trials... and you saved me the $300CAD for their clamp system!! Thanks man! Subbed!
Nice to see you are finishing the walls, don’t we wish money grew on trees. Wasn’t that long ago there was bare studs. GREAT video, you must be near the top when you have Winston Moy watching and leaving a message. I’ve watched Winston for a lot of years, wood shop to road trips. Again thanks for all your hard work and the information you share
it was about time wasn't it?! It's finally warm in my shop! I was blessed to have him visit my shop during his roadtrip. its like getting daddys approval :P
I just got my Shapeoko XXL 2 wks. ago. Your vids and patterns have helped me solve a lot of problems. I am brand-new at cnc and you have set me weeks ahead and answered a lot of questions. Thanks
Surprised you don't have a lot more subscribers. Maybe we can joint effort something someday, but in the meantime I admire your creativeness and integrity on the channel. You do great work.
I bought your cam clamp files the other day for my homemade CNC and they work really well thank you! I made sure to give you a little shoutout on my video👌
I was a skeptic at first too. It works great and allows for full depth cuts without the need for tabs. Check out Mark Lindsay’s channel. Just another option to consider. Thanks for the great videos!
I do the double sided tape for a year now (on a shapeoko as well). I use masking tape on the waste board and piece and that way they are reusable a few times before they lose there "stickiness".
What works way better than double sided tape is sticky wall tack like the kind schools use to put posters on the wall. It holds everything pretty securely, leaves no residue, and I'm still using the same batch I bought 5 years ago, so lasts forever. The cam-lever clamps in this video work amazing for anything you need more securely.
I like the clamp idea and am going purchase the clamp plans from your Etsy store. This is going to mean less waste material, since currently I use 6 inches on each side of what I am cutting to use metal straps to clamp stuff down. The only problem is I have a lot of warped wood and not sure how I will be able to use your method to clamp warped wood down. I am running a 30"X30" LongMill CNC router.
Great idea, the only thing I would do different would be to use a 1/4 thick wood for the L-clamp to accommodate for the touch probe. You can't zero from the corner using the touch probe unless the L-clamp is sitting a bit lower .
With your waist board design how did you make tons of evenly spaced circles I’m trying to do something similar but with hexagons and I want you checks are going to be 3 inches and an 8th inch apart but I just can’t figure out how to make them all an 8th inch apart.
These small clamps look a lot like mine. Have you been using my design there? And have you also noticed that the bigger cams tend to open on their own a lot easier?
I was just made aware of you today on Instagram. I’ve seen them a few places on the internet. I like your idea with the squares. Does that make a big difference? I haven’t noticed the bigger ones getting looser at all.
@@MyersWoodshop I just wanted to ask if you have used my free SVG file of the small clamp (which looks exactly like yours). When I designed mine and used a big cam, they always tend to loosen themselves. Probably MDF has more friction than birch ply.
No. I didn’t use your .svg. That would have been much easier!😂😂. I just did it from memory of the few random examples I saw online. How do you like the newer style you did with the squares?
@@MyersWoodshop I really like the squares. No matter what the size or shape of my workpiece is, I can clamp it without shims. Also at a repeatable position.
Thanks for the vidio. The larger off set clamps won't stay tight. The angle of contact changes. I have made the smaller wedge larger, but maintained the geometry.
@@MyersWoodshop if they work, great. I did not mean to criticize. Hold downs take time and are major part of project. The smaller clamp design geometry keeps a constant preasure as it turns so that it holds its position like a lock clamp.
If you google Next Wave Automation Euro Style Clamping Jig, I wrote that article a few years ago. Much like this one but might help those with smaller tables. You should get the PDF in the google search. I like the offsets but as always there are a lot of ways to skin a cat.
Hello great video, thanks, I would like to ask a question please, I am building currently my first larger CNC which is a lead screw openbuild 1075, its difficult and stupid money to try and buy a shapeoko or Vcarve in Europe and it works out better to go down the open builds route which is what I have done. 1075 is the maximum size I need for what I do. I am now looking at a spoil board and I am not sure what system to use for the nuts, I plan on using sealed 25mm mdf as the board and this will allow me a couple of mm's to surface it and provide additional weight. On the 3018 I had a aluminium extruded bed with T-slots and mdf on top and the clamps always got in the way. I have seen the nuts you have used which we call prong or claw nuts in europe ( the Allen ones are called inset nuts here) and I have seen these other Inset nuts that you just screw in with a allen key. How have you found the prong nuts once you have tightened down on them, have they moved at all ? Do they ever work loose? I was thinking the Allen inset type would maybe pull out of the MDF as there is no real grain in which to bite into. What do you think please? I'm at the point where I need to order one or the other and I think the prong nuts could be a better long term investment. I plan on using cams whatever the case rather than large clamps that get in the way of the spindle which I had on my little 3018 I had for a year to learn gcode, design and cnc. ( great learning tool on a small footprint by the way) Many thanks ( also I have sub'd)
How much space between those holes? I want to do the same, but I also want to use those mounting holes as vacuum ports to suck off the dust from below.
Thanks for the valuable insight. So it works for a smaller thinner stock but what about like 3/4 inch hardwood stock say around 15 by 13 with a half in end mill! I would think the higher force would throw the piece off.
Hi guys if you want a nailer to nail down hard wood maple.then it a Rioby 23,gauge battery operated nailer it shoots 5/8"to 1 3/8. These are great if you are cutting out a piece Even if you hit one it gets cut off no problem. The pin that is left I. Your mdf will pull right out with a pair of channel locks
Thanks for your Vids Ben..I used your roll around workbench design for my 1F..worked great..very rigid. I'lm doing your wasteboard design also..that sounded weird lol but keep up the good work..- thanks - Rich
I was just wondering if the 1in hex bolts were long enough to go through cams and waste board. I know it’s listed in your description, I just wanted to be sure before I place the order. Thanks!
Hi Ben. I’m new to the Shapeoko and your videos are super helpful! Thank you! Just a quick question, how do you hold down your cut pieces while the Shapeoko is still cutting? I have been using double sided tape but the pieces still shift and sometimes fly out or get caught in the router path. I also tried tabs but they’re an extra step to sand down. Any ideas other than double sided tape and tabs?
Hi, currently researching before I get into CNC making. Your videos have taught me so much more than I ever thought of. Do you ever find that the vibrations during carving causes the cam clamps to release? I’m thinking of gluing some thin rubber to the bottom when I eventually make them to increase the friction.
Cam clamps slip. Look at 6:40 in the video; that large clamp is not providing any clamping pressure. Also, cam clamps don't exert any downward pressure on the wood. An standard upcut bit will lift the work off the table. Been there; done that.
Ben need some help!!! Dont know why but i zero out x,y,and z but makes first tool path cut good, the the tool path cut goes down about 1/4 inch and goes to next hole an on. Tool path 3 the cut start about 1/4 inch or so above piece trying to cut. All said it cuts only half way through the cams. any suggestions??
Hey Ben, great videos on the Shapeoko! They were a big reason I went ahead with this CNC. Have you ever had any problems with the X-axis drag chain getting caught up on the limit switch? Either getting caught under it or on top of it as it's moving left and right?
Just build my XXL plan on using your design (best method, I’ve seen) how did you secure the waste board to the stock board? Do you use a second waste board above your board with the screws? When you cut through your material if you don’t won’t it hit the screws? Newbie here with newbie questions 🤔
Hi! Thanks for all your great videos. Starting with CNC and my Shapeoko XL, your channel is my bible :) Question about the clamps: can I use your Cam Clamps with Carbide’s T-Track wasteboard and bolts? Thanks 🙏
Myers Woodshop Thanks for the fast answer. As my English is not so good, excuse me for asking more details: the t-tracks are the rails, right? Do you mean that I will have to manipulate the file to accommodate for the carbide original t-track threads & knobs?
You forgot the superglue and masking tape method of clamping... way better than double sided tape (which tends to shift slightly depending on the glue it uses... not all double sided tape is the same).
I want to strongly suggest that you redesign your clamps. The geometry is all wrong. Another improvement would be to make a relief cut in the corner brace that would allow use of a probe.
You should put a couple different holes in the big clamps with varying distance from center, that way your could use it for a lot more different clamping widths.
I have been using a 18 gauge nailer to nail down quarter inch plywood onto my waste board. I try to avoid where the cutter goes but sometimes I do hit them. After 150 projects I have not had any issues with them being dull. I have hit a harden screw and snapped a bit or two the nails are pretty soft so it is not a issue from my experience.
IT WOULD BE EVEN BETTER TO BUY A TABLE MADE FROM CAST IRON BECAUSE DOES NOT CHANGE BT MOISTURE THEN PUT T SLOTS IN IT AND THAT IS THE WAY THE EXPENSIVE MACHINES DO THAT
I can't believe you first said you designed the cam clamps and that you are selling the plans for them for $40. I got them free from someone who made them before this video in 2016, also with the corner clamp. I am unsubscribing do to your taking credit for other people's designs and selling them as your own.
i designed them on my own in carbide create. i didn't know others existed at that time. I sell the physical items for 40$ on my etsy. I sell the file for 1.99 on my etsy. I also have given the file away for free from the very first day on my website. Sorry to see you go.
@@MyersWoodshop I apologize for my hasty conclusion. But you said you "created" the design, not that you designed in carbide create. I had just watched two earlier videos and then saw yours. I apologize.
This is why I love RUclips. One of my biggest time wasters is figuring things out with trial and error. Not only did you find multiple best ways to clamp things, you saved me the time to make the same mistakes and trials... and you saved me the $300CAD for their clamp system!! Thanks man! Subbed!
awesome! Glad i could help and save you $$$!
Nice to see you are finishing the walls, don’t we wish money grew on trees. Wasn’t that long ago there was bare studs. GREAT video, you must be near the top when you have Winston Moy watching and leaving a message. I’ve watched Winston for a lot of years, wood shop to road trips.
Again thanks for all your hard work and the information you share
it was about time wasn't it?! It's finally warm in my shop!
I was blessed to have him visit my shop during his roadtrip. its like getting daddys approval :P
There are brad nails made from a composite material that won't hurt your router bit at all... will work with your existing brad nailer.
There is a nailgun that uses nylon bradnails. Pinning the workpieces down is a joy:)
thats a great idea!
I just got my Shapeoko XXL 2 wks. ago. Your vids and patterns have helped me solve a lot of problems. I am brand-new at cnc and you have set me weeks ahead and answered a lot of questions. Thanks
Great to hear!
Surprised you don't have a lot more subscribers. Maybe we can joint effort something someday, but in the meantime I admire your creativeness and integrity on the channel. You do great work.
Thanks Robert! I appreciate it!
I bought your cam clamp files the other day for my homemade CNC and they work really well thank you! I made sure to give you a little shoutout on my video👌
thanks so much!
Great review. The one method I prefer now is the painters tape and crazy glue. Works great! Your cam is a great idea too! Thanks
tape and glue is something i havent tried yet!
I was a skeptic at first too. It works great and allows for full depth cuts without the need for tabs. Check out Mark Lindsay’s channel. Just another option to consider.
Thanks for the great videos!
I do the double sided tape for a year now (on a shapeoko as well). I use masking tape on the waste board and piece and that way they are reusable a few times before they lose there "stickiness".
not a bad way to do things.
What works way better than double sided tape is sticky wall tack like the kind schools use to put posters on the wall.
It holds everything pretty securely, leaves no residue, and I'm still using the same batch I bought 5 years ago, so lasts forever.
The cam-lever clamps in this video work amazing for anything you need more securely.
yes, double sided tape is VERY good.
Very clever. Just orderedy shapeoko yesterday can't wait to use these ideas. Thank you
Cancel your order and get the www.OnefinityCnc.com !! Way better for the same cost!
I like the clamp idea and am going purchase the clamp plans from your Etsy store. This is going to mean less waste material, since currently I use 6 inches on each side of what I am cutting to use metal straps to clamp stuff down. The only problem is I have a lot of warped wood and not sure how I will be able to use your method to clamp warped wood down. I am running a 30"X30" LongMill CNC router.
Cut out my cam clamps and L-brackets this morning.. Thanks for the video!
Joe Murray how’d you get the files?
Great idea, the only thing I would do different would be to use a 1/4 thick wood for the L-clamp to accommodate for the touch probe. You can't zero from the corner using the touch probe unless the L-clamp is sitting a bit lower .
that's what the fence was for, it has a built in spot for the probe.
I love smart and clever and these are both. Well done and thank you
With your waist board design how did you make tons of evenly spaced circles I’m trying to do something similar but with hexagons and I want you checks are going to be 3 inches and an 8th inch apart but I just can’t figure out how to make them all an 8th inch apart.
in vetric aspire
These small clamps look a lot like mine. Have you been using my design there? And have you also noticed that the bigger cams tend to open on their own a lot easier?
I was just made aware of you today on Instagram. I’ve seen them a few places on the internet. I like your idea with the squares. Does that make a big difference?
I haven’t noticed the bigger ones getting looser at all.
@@MyersWoodshop I just wanted to ask if you have used my free SVG file of the small clamp (which looks exactly like yours).
When I designed mine and used a big cam, they always tend to loosen themselves. Probably MDF has more friction than birch ply.
No. I didn’t use your .svg. That would have been much easier!😂😂. I just did it from memory of the few random examples I saw online. How do you like the newer style you did with the squares?
Apart from the way the cams fit to the waste board they look exactly like your design Marius
@@MyersWoodshop I really like the squares. No matter what the size or shape of my workpiece is, I can clamp it without shims. Also at a repeatable position.
Thanks for the vidio. The larger off set clamps won't stay tight. The angle of contact changes. I have made the smaller wedge larger, but maintained the geometry.
they work well?
@@MyersWoodshop if they work, great. I did not mean to criticize. Hold downs take time and are major part of project. The smaller clamp design geometry keeps a constant preasure as it turns so that it holds its position like a lock clamp.
Great stuff Ben.....will be downloading these...
awesome! I hope you enjoy them!
Hi Ben, thanks for all you videos big help! On your wasteboard are the holes 1 inch apart?
2"
normal uses 2" grid.
If you google Next Wave Automation Euro Style Clamping Jig, I wrote that article a few years ago. Much like this one but might help those with smaller tables. You should get the PDF in the google search. I like the offsets but as always there are a lot of ways to skin a cat.
sure is.
Hello great video, thanks, I would like to ask a question please, I am building currently my first larger CNC which is a lead screw openbuild 1075, its difficult and stupid money to try and buy a shapeoko or Vcarve in Europe and it works out better to go down the open builds route which is what I have done. 1075 is the maximum size I need for what I do.
I am now looking at a spoil board and I am not sure what system to use for the nuts, I plan on using sealed 25mm mdf as the board and this will allow me a couple of mm's to surface it and provide additional weight. On the 3018 I had a aluminium extruded bed with T-slots and mdf on top and the clamps always got in the way.
I have seen the nuts you have used which we call prong or claw nuts in europe ( the Allen ones are called inset nuts here) and I have seen these other Inset nuts that you just screw in with a allen key. How have you found the prong nuts once you have tightened down on them, have they moved at all ? Do they ever work loose?
I was thinking the Allen inset type would maybe pull out of the MDF as there is no real grain in which to bite into. What do you think please?
I'm at the point where I need to order one or the other and I think the prong nuts could be a better long term investment. I plan on using cams whatever the case rather than large clamps that get in the way of the spindle which I had on my little 3018 I had for a year to learn gcode, design and cnc. ( great learning tool on a small footprint by the way)
Many thanks ( also I have sub'd)
if allen is all you can get, it's better than nothing.
@@MyersWoodshop tx for reply, I can get prongs i was asking in your opinion whats better, allen or prong nuts?
You are awesome!!! Please keep up your awesome videos!
How much space between those holes? I want to do the same, but I also want to use those mounting holes as vacuum ports to suck off the dust from below.
2 inches.
Thanks for the valuable insight. So it works for a smaller thinner stock but what about like 3/4 inch hardwood stock say around 15 by 13 with a half in end mill!
I would think the higher force would throw the piece off.
i've had no issue with really big stock either.
Hi guys if you want a nailer to nail down hard wood maple.then it a Rioby 23,gauge battery operated nailer it shoots 5/8"to 1 3/8. These are great if you are cutting out a piece
Even if you hit one it gets cut off no problem. The pin that is left I. Your mdf will pull right out with a pair of channel locks
Hi, could you give me the hole distance, I guess nearly 10 cm. can you give me details
Do the clamps tend to vibrate loose for long runs?
Thanks for your Vids Ben..I used your roll around workbench design for my 1F..worked great..very rigid. I'lm doing your wasteboard design also..that sounded weird lol but keep up the good work..- thanks - Rich
Fantastic!
ah man so helpful ben! thank you.
This is pretty nice, like the designs, do you have any svg files for this ?
On my etsy
I was just wondering if the 1in hex bolts were long enough to go through cams and waste board. I know it’s listed in your description, I just wanted to be sure before I place the order. Thanks!
yes they are.
Great videos. They are so helpful. I have a Shapeoko 3 (the regular size one) which file should I use? The one that says Small Size?
yep!
great idea. i was going to design a vacuum system but the pumps cost more than the xxl lol.
i'd love a vac system.
What do you use for downward pressure on boards that aren't perfectly flat?
oops clamps
Hi Ben. I’m new to the Shapeoko and your videos are super helpful! Thank you! Just a quick question, how do you hold down your cut pieces while the Shapeoko is still cutting? I have been using double sided tape but the pieces still shift and sometimes fly out or get caught in the router path. I also tried tabs but they’re an extra step to sand down. Any ideas other than double sided tape and tabs?
tabs are the way. invest in a router with a flush trim bit with a bearing on it. it'll sove your tab sanding in seconds.
Excellent video and very useful tools. I love the cam concept. Thanks!
glad it helped!
Want to get the plans to cut the clamps for the Cnc
they are avaliable on my etsy. www.etsy.com/shop/benmyerswoodshop
Good ideas. Thanks.
I like the clamps!
Thanks! They work great!
Hi, currently researching before I get into CNC making. Your videos have taught me so much more than I ever thought of.
Do you ever find that the vibrations during carving causes the cam clamps to release? I’m thinking of gluing some thin rubber to the bottom when I eventually make them to increase the friction.
I have not
Cam clamps slip. Look at 6:40 in the video; that large clamp is not providing any clamping pressure. Also, cam clamps don't exert any downward pressure on the wood. An standard upcut bit will lift the work off the table. Been there; done that.
@@richardfarwell6759Yep me too.
i use cams dogs for my wood working bench top.....geat idea to use it on the cnc top
they work great!
Do these clamps hold the material flat?
Ben need some help!!! Dont know why but i zero out x,y,and z but makes first tool path cut good, the the tool path cut goes down about 1/4 inch and goes to next hole an on. Tool path 3 the cut start about 1/4 inch or so above piece trying to cut. All said it cuts only half way through the cams.
any suggestions??
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I am having the same issue.
How can I get a copy carbide Create file for making the 90 deg bracket and the cam clamps
If there is a fee I will be glad to contribute.
www.etsy.com/shop/benmyerswoodshop
What bit you used to cut out the L shape brackets?
amzn.to/2G9ZrAy
or
the #201 1/4 upcut that comes with the shapeoko.
I am not seeing where I can purchase files. How do I go about that? Can you provide link?
Www.etsy.com/shop/benmyerswoodshop
Hey Ben, great videos on the Shapeoko! They were a big reason I went ahead with this CNC. Have you ever had any problems with the X-axis drag chain getting caught up on the limit switch? Either getting caught under it or on top of it as it's moving left and right?
i switched the limit switch to the other side.
Great clean ideas !! Well done !
Thank you Omer!
Just build my XXL plan on using your design (best method, I’ve seen) how did you secure the waste board to the stock board? Do you use a second waste board above your board with the screws? When you cut through your material if you don’t won’t it hit the screws? Newbie here with newbie questions 🤔
some screws.
Hi! Thanks for all your great videos. Starting with CNC and my Shapeoko XL, your channel is my bible :) Question about the clamps: can I use your Cam Clamps with Carbide’s T-Track wasteboard and bolts? Thanks 🙏
you can but you'll have to manipulate the file to insert the t tracks.
Myers Woodshop Thanks for the fast answer. As my English is not so good, excuse me for asking more details: the t-tracks are the rails, right? Do you mean that I will have to manipulate the file to accommodate for the carbide original t-track threads & knobs?
I just had a piece that was taped and pin nailed pop off after a 2 hour cut... very frustrating
that sucks.
Great video ben!
Great idea Ben!
thanks scott. there's still more coming down the road!
■ 1/4 - 20 hex bolts - amzn.to/2UgneU5
■ 1/4 - 20 washers - amzn.to/2KXoFST
■ 1/4 - 20 t nuts (you need 3 packs) - amzn.to/2KWDsx5
■ Double Sided Tape : amzn.to/2VSzqet
■ Rockler Hold Down Clamp : amzn.to/2storum
■ Oops Clamp : bit.ly/OopsClamp
■ Myers Woodshop Cam Clamps : bit.ly/camclamps
■ Myers Woodshop Wasteboard : bit.ly/cncwasteboard
■ Myers Woodshop L Clamps :bit.ly/Lclamps
■ Cadex Braid Nailer : amzn.to/2RQb7P2
■ Shapeoko 3 XXL CNC Machine : bit.ly/shapeoko
Very nice system!! 👍👍
thanks jake! There's more out there but these are my go to's
which hole spacing do you use?
2”
Well done, put your blog adress in the description, regards
Hey Ben! So when I purchase these 3 files here in a bit, is it programmed for attaching the new wasteboard to the top of the other one?
No, I just drill 4 holes and attach withbscrews countersunk
Hello. Can't find them on etsy.
www.etsy.com/shop/benmyerswoodshop
You forgot the superglue and masking tape method of clamping... way better than double sided tape (which tends to shift slightly depending on the glue it uses... not all double sided tape is the same).
Badass! Great video thanks!
Glad it helped fish!
This is amazing! Love the designs!!
thanks conor!
Nice one....
Thanks 😊
I want to strongly suggest that you redesign your clamps. The geometry is all wrong. Another improvement would be to make a relief cut in the corner brace that would allow use of a probe.
i did that for the fence
You should put a couple different holes in the big clamps with varying distance from center, that way your could use it for a lot more different clamping widths.
super gemacht 1a prima
can't read that.
Thanks
no problem.
3:37 5:18 7:15
Wait, was your intro/logo supposed to bisect your sentence?
Lol....it builds the anticipation
Uhh man I bought the washers the inside diameter is 1/2 inch
sorry man. there are links for the proper size in the description.
Yea the ones in your description are 1/2 on the inside they just got here they are to bjig
no longer free on his blog...
Thanks for ideeën
no problem!
Hitting finish nails with your bit will dull it really fast. They make plastic nails just for this reason
I have been using a 18 gauge nailer to nail down quarter inch plywood onto my waste board. I try to avoid where the cutter goes but sometimes I do hit them. After 150 projects I have not had any issues with them being dull. I have hit a harden screw and snapped a bit or two the nails are pretty soft so it is not a issue from my experience.
IT WOULD BE EVEN BETTER TO BUY A TABLE MADE FROM CAST IRON BECAUSE DOES NOT CHANGE BT MOISTURE THEN PUT T SLOTS IN IT AND THAT IS THE WAY THE EXPENSIVE MACHINES DO THAT
True. But my videos are aimed at the beginner so I wanted it cheap and easy.
👍👍👍
I can’t find any free plans. Maybe you could pin either a pined comment to all your videos that say “plans are no longer free” or something.
In my opinion none of these are very efficient. I think the vacuum table is the best
Sorry don't see it, the cams are not shaped correctly. They need to lock into place
What?
The cams are not shaped properly, they need to keep constant pressure when engaged, they do not
Have a correct file you made you’d like to share?
I can't believe you first said you designed the cam clamps and that you are selling the plans for them for $40. I got them free from someone who made them before this video in 2016, also with the corner clamp. I am unsubscribing do to your taking credit for other people's designs and selling them as your own.
i designed them on my own in carbide create. i didn't know others existed at that time. I sell the physical items for 40$ on my etsy. I sell the file for 1.99 on my etsy. I also have given the file away for free from the very first day on my website. Sorry to see you go.
@@MyersWoodshop I apologize for my hasty conclusion. But you said you "created" the design, not that you designed in carbide create. I had just watched two earlier videos and then saw yours. I apologize.
All these methods have been around for decades, please don't say that you designed them.
Too late. No take backs
Those files are a bunch of nonsense, looks like a bunch of code
Right click, save as
Lame