have tried severeral times to get the checklist with no luck. no email or anything. i submit my info, goes to the next screen, plays video acts like i have to purchase the design bundle to complete the request.
Awesome in depth video. I mostly do high production projects so I only use a vacuum table my spoilboards are lacquered. I will drill through my spoilboard and use gasket material to seal the vacuum in specific areas.
Thanks Garrett. I'm "carving" all the way through 3/4" pine ultimately using 90% of the wood, hence little areas to Clamp. Tape, I believe might not hold when I cut through, but back to leaving tabs, which I don't want to use in the production project. Next, I'd like to align a few lengths of wood n clamp/secure as one. I've got a lot of experimenting to do. Thanks for the timely video n sponsoring the V12 discussions.
The "free" router checklist isn't free at all. You have to buy some other files for $22. in order to get it. The other stuff had zero value to me so I had to back out. Not happy.
I'm using mostly using screws to hold down my projects. But I'm not using screws with a cross like you do but I'm using Torx screws. Due to the angle on cross screws (or Phillips screws), you need to push down on the screw to prevent slipping or skipping. On Torx screws, you barely need any force to keep the bit in the head of the screw as there is no angle and you don't risk as much slippage which can damage your screwhead or even the bit itself. I'm using mainly Torx screws for everything nowadays. I'm also using the tape method alot, especially on acrylic sheets to make engravings. One thing to look out for when using double-sided tape: if you plan to cut out your workpiece, make sure the tape isn't anywhere near the cutout. If your bit goes through the double sided tape, even if it's only 0.1mm, the glue of that tape sticks to your bit, collecting sawdust and you'll be burning and scraping through the rest of your project instead of cutting. I've had it happen with wood and acrylic projects. The acrylic will melt alot quicker when there is glue on your bit, and the wood will start smoking due to gathered dustparticles inside the grooves of the bit and you may potentially break your bit as well if there is no place for the chips to go. Same like drilling a hole with a drillbit where the woodchips are stuck inside the drillbit and can't get out. Then you need to apply much more force to drill any deeper and your bit/wood starts smoking.
I use threaded inserts and save their locations in vectric. Then you can make any jigs or pieces to go around them. Saves from screwing into spoil board so much.
I appreciate what you do. Unfortunately, I am starting to see something in your videos that I detest in other channels. It seems like your videos are becoming more of a sales tool for products than they are for instruction. Sometimes it takes you off-topic so you can sell something. I just wanted to give you this feedback. I'm sure many of your "fans" will check me, but to me, when you start to create videos to sell something disguised as instruction, I think you will start losing your fans.
backpacker57, I am sorry about this brother. I will take your input into consideration on future videos. Thank you for sharing your perspective, I really do appreciate it.
So screws I've used a bunch of times, so far, never hit one with a bit, but the plastic nails intrigue me. How do you get them off the table at the end since you are unable to "unscrew" them?
pnoel4936, that is a very good method brother! Plastic nails work great because you can always un pry your project from the spoilboard once it is done.
Hey just thought about this when you upgrade to a spindle and you program a file for drag bit does the spindle not turn on when you start the job? Just curious. Thanks
@@IDCWoodcraft I was thinking about that when I was watching you talk about your files. Also I'm trying to get your checklist but it keeps bringing me to your bundle purchase option is it on the idc app with all my bits or can I buy a copy when I order bits in the near future. Thanks Garrett
Garrett, always get something from your videos. Never thought to seal my spoilboard. What a great idea. Getting ready to replace mine, so wrote a note to myself to do that after I finish flatting and grid. Blue tape and super glue is my method of choice for hold down. Nothing works as well for me. The first time you demonstrated the toe clamps, they never became available. I see the ability to order now.
One recommendation for double sided tape: Peel the backer off BEFORE you cut the tape to length with the utility knife. This leaves a "tail" on the backer. The next time you go to apply the tape, you don't need to fight to get the peel on the backer started with your fingernail, you just use the tail left from last time. Then you repeat this again so you always have a tail (you can trim/rip it down to a reasonable size, just make sure to leave SOME tail). I learned this trick from Inspire Woodcraft and it's made working with double sided tape so much less frustrating! Look up his (very short) video "The RIGHT WAY to Use Double Sided Tape" if you're having trouble visualizing this technique. Thanks for this super informative video Garrett. I've been wanting to experiment with cam clamps and this taught me enough to dive in!
Hey Garrett something to think about. I tried making your wooden clamps but had problems with the wood breaking so I ran to my local Wally World and picked up a phenolic cutting board a soft plastic material, not a hard plastic material. I cut the clamps again out of the cutting board material.... Perfect, they bend when you put pressure on them but they don't break.... Of the clamps I've tried, the phenolic ones are the best I've used.
Great video, as always. Not sure the superglue method is much less expensive than the double sided tape method when you factor in the cost of the superglue and especially the accelerator. Jonathan Katz Moses did a video recently recommending the tape sold by Taytools. The whole purpose of the accelerator is to drive the cyanoacrylate to a basic PH level, which is required for proper reaction. This is why you see a lot of homemade versions on the internet using baking soda, which works well, but can leave a residue. I’ll be experimenting with this later this summer. Clay
Hey Bro - Great job on a video that addresses a subject that is not usually well addressed. For me, I generally use top clamps (made from wood), or a combination of top clamps & double-sided tape (when I have a cutout inside in the project I am working on), as the majority of my projects are made with thin wood (usually .250" or less), and some of the other clamps do not work well with thin wood.
Ok. . Heres something I have so far not heard of anybody else doing. Due to a minor design error when I built my cnc, My spoil board was too low. Z travel downwards was insufficient for small or short cutters to reach. I had my 25mm MDF nicely surfaced and made another sheet to go on top of it. The layer below it was surfaced as I said. . And good factory fresh mdf is as flat as I can mesure, so I did not surface the new top face. The smooth and seemingly denser factory surface of mdf takes the tape/ca glue fixing method MUCH more securely than a surfaced and sealed mdf surface does. I conclude that my error was nothing of the sort. I merely have greater intelligence and foresight than I am aware of! 😇
Great video! I've used all of these methods at one time or another, with the exception of using a vice. The one thing I hadn't considered was if you are clamping a piece that includes a cutout toolpath, and don't do something to retain the cutout piece - such as tabs - it will come loose and likely be damaged by the router bit. So for pieces that have some type of cutouts, I use the tape and superglue method. Clamps will get in the way, and toe clamps won't retain the cutout piece. I'm sure there are other methods as well.
I am so glad you mentioned this! I thought about it after the video was posted. Cam clamps can be a real issue when doing a cutout. This is exactly the type of comment I wanted to have. Thank you
a little tip on double sided tape , dont cut it at the end . when applying the tape pull the backing back keeping some of the backing in place . cut only the tape not the backing material leave that. before making the cut of the tape take a back handle of the putty knife and press it to the work piece . I saw this tip online and have been using it ever since.. peeling that backing material is a pain in the neck
johnterdik4707, Yes, there are battery-operated nailers available in the market. You can check with various tool manufacturers like DeWalt, Makita, or Ryobi for options that suit your needs.
@@IDCWoodcraft No worries, I have an old Chinese 90cm x 60cm desktop CNC with a 1.2 K-watt spindle with a MACH-3 Pc based controller for controlling the machine. Many years ago I created a waste board that used these. I machined some brass dogs and location pins which really helped me with rapid prototyping parts that would eventually be made with plastic injection molding. I used to have these parts made through Stereolithography (SLA) 3D printing which cost about $1000 each and took a week to get. I’m thinking about getting the Sienci Labs Altmill with a PWNCNC ATC. Do you have any thoughts on this setup?
With cam clamps I have found down cut or straight bits less troublesome than up cut bits. The vibration from router speed and the upward pull of the upcut can cause the workpiece to lift. Great video Garrett.
Great video. I ve used all the methods you have described, except for vacuum ($$$$). I tried the masking tape/super glue after watching your video, and its worked well except that i was spending a lot of time removing residue from the spoil board. Much prefer the double sided tape, which you also introduced me to. Thanks so much for sharing.
user-qx4yb9kn6h, glad to hear you liked this one brother! All clamping methods have their pros/cons and it sounds like you have the right tool for the job.
Another wonderful video. Well done Garrett! Very detailed; going through things slowly and thoroughly as you always do. Plus of course, all the links below. Thank you Garrett!
Great video Garrett. You never disappoint. Do you have a file for the cam clamps? I have started liking the tape method. I ordered the tape you use and just got it. Thanks👊😎
Very Good comments! I liked how you showed "How strong" the methods can be and How details matter in Setup of materials and setup of hold downs. You have some very good videos on Spoil Board Prep and Maintenance. Keep up the good work!
Most of my projects involve complet cut through which results in using tape. To help preserve my spoil board I will tape the project to a 1/4 in cheap plywood and then use clamps to secure this to my spoil board. The plywood can be used for several project and easily discarded when it gets too cut up. Great videos - keep up the good work!!
My preferred method is to use a brad/pin nailer. They are smaller gauge, hold the project in place, and are very quick to use. With thicker boards, I toenail the brads and it works great! I have used tape, which sometimes fails. I have used clamps, but I always have to take them into consideration when programming for Z axis to make sure the router clears them, plus I need a lot more excess material to hold the project in place. Great video as always! Always very informative!
I like vacuum but 95% my parts are cutting right too the waste board so I lose vacuum pressure right away and I cut 10 parts or more. I use double sided tape
Thanks Garrett for your very informative video. I mainly use the glue and tape method but for smaller projects i use 2 sided tape. i've tried clamps but they seem to get in the way. Would love to try the vacuum system but not set up for it.
Get the CNC Project Setup Checklist → link.idcwoodcraft.com/zmkr5w
have tried severeral times to get the checklist with no luck. no email or anything. i submit my info, goes to the next screen, plays video acts like i have to purchase the design bundle to complete the request.
Awesome in depth video. I mostly do high production projects so I only use a vacuum table my spoilboards are lacquered. I will drill through my spoilboard and use gasket material to seal the vacuum in specific areas.
This is an awesome technique. I don't use vacuum much in production. Thanks for sharing this. I will definitely remember it!
Well done Garrett. Your videos continue to improve.
RobSandstromDesigns, thanks brother! Glad you liked this one.
Thanks - Best video on this topic i have came accross. 😀
benvandermerwe2359, you are so welcome my friend.
Thanks Garrett. I'm "carving" all the way through 3/4" pine ultimately using 90% of the wood, hence little areas to Clamp. Tape, I believe might not hold when I cut through, but back to leaving tabs, which I don't want to use in the production project. Next, I'd like to align a few lengths of wood n clamp/secure as one. I've got a lot of experimenting to do. Thanks for the timely video n sponsoring the V12 discussions.
bradcooper8325, good call brother! Keep experimenting and learning my friend!
The "free" router checklist isn't free at all. You have to buy some other files for $22. in order to get it. The other stuff had zero value to me so I had to back out. Not happy.
danbaker7191, Sorry about that brother! Here is a link to the setup checklist: bit.ly/3ug35Uj it will download directly to your computer.
I'm using mostly using screws to hold down my projects. But I'm not using screws with a cross like you do but I'm using Torx screws. Due to the angle on cross screws (or Phillips screws), you need to push down on the screw to prevent slipping or skipping. On Torx screws, you barely need any force to keep the bit in the head of the screw as there is no angle and you don't risk as much slippage which can damage your screwhead or even the bit itself. I'm using mainly Torx screws for everything nowadays. I'm also using the tape method alot, especially on acrylic sheets to make engravings. One thing to look out for when using double-sided tape: if you plan to cut out your workpiece, make sure the tape isn't anywhere near the cutout. If your bit goes through the double sided tape, even if it's only 0.1mm, the glue of that tape sticks to your bit, collecting sawdust and you'll be burning and scraping through the rest of your project instead of cutting. I've had it happen with wood and acrylic projects. The acrylic will melt alot quicker when there is glue on your bit, and the wood will start smoking due to gathered dustparticles inside the grooves of the bit and you may potentially break your bit as well if there is no place for the chips to go. Same like drilling a hole with a drillbit where the woodchips are stuck inside the drillbit and can't get out. Then you need to apply much more force to drill any deeper and your bit/wood starts smoking.
powerpc6037, good call brother. Using screws is a great idea as is the tape method. Happy CNCing brother!
I use threaded inserts and save their locations in vectric. Then you can make any jigs or pieces to go around them. Saves from screwing into spoil board so much.
steveli2182, good call brother! I really like that idea.
I appreciate what you do. Unfortunately, I am starting to see something in your videos that I detest in other channels. It seems like your videos are becoming more of a sales tool for products than they are for instruction. Sometimes it takes you off-topic so you can sell something. I just wanted to give you this feedback. I'm sure many of your "fans" will check me, but to me, when you start to create videos to sell something disguised as instruction, I think you will start losing your fans.
backpacker57, I am sorry about this brother. I will take your input into consideration on future videos. Thank you for sharing your perspective, I really do appreciate it.
So screws I've used a bunch of times, so far, never hit one with a bit, but the plastic nails intrigue me. How do you get them off the table at the end since you are unable to "unscrew" them?
pnoel4936, that is a very good method brother! Plastic nails work great because you can always un pry your project from the spoilboard once it is done.
Hey just thought about this when you upgrade to a spindle and you program a file for drag bit does the spindle not turn on when you start the job? Just curious. Thanks
Great question! I have to manually turn the spindle off so it does not spin up
@@IDCWoodcraft I was thinking about that when I was watching you talk about your files. Also I'm trying to get your checklist but it keeps bringing me to your bundle purchase option is it on the idc app with all my bits or can I buy a copy when I order bits in the near future. Thanks Garrett
I have a battery-powered Ryobi Nail gun. No cords, no air compressor required
Love my 23g pin nailer!
eitantal726, that is a great idea brother! I like that.
Garrett, always get something from your videos. Never thought to seal my spoilboard. What a great idea. Getting ready to replace mine, so wrote a note to myself to do that after I finish flatting and grid.
Blue tape and super glue is my method of choice for hold down. Nothing works as well for me. The first time you demonstrated the toe clamps, they never became available. I see the ability to order now.
jimpalmer1944, glad you liked this one brother! It sounds like you have just the right hold downs for your needs.
One recommendation for double sided tape: Peel the backer off BEFORE you cut the tape to length with the utility knife. This leaves a "tail" on the backer. The next time you go to apply the tape, you don't need to fight to get the peel on the backer started with your fingernail, you just use the tail left from last time. Then you repeat this again so you always have a tail (you can trim/rip it down to a reasonable size, just make sure to leave SOME tail). I learned this trick from Inspire Woodcraft and it's made working with double sided tape so much less frustrating! Look up his (very short) video "The RIGHT WAY to Use Double Sided Tape" if you're having trouble visualizing this technique.
Thanks for this super informative video Garrett. I've been wanting to experiment with cam clamps and this taught me enough to dive in!
Yup! Great idea.
homtherobot, great idea brother! I will try that method. It should make things quite a lot easier.
Hey Garrett something to think about. I tried making your wooden clamps but had problems with the wood breaking so I ran to my local Wally World and picked up a phenolic cutting board a soft plastic material, not a hard plastic material. I cut the clamps again out of the cutting board material.... Perfect, they bend when you put pressure on them but they don't break.... Of the clamps I've tried, the phenolic ones are the best I've used.
ca8920 , good call brother! Phenolic would work great for clamps. I like that idea.
Great video, as always. Not sure the superglue method is much less expensive than the double sided tape method when you factor in the cost of the superglue and especially the accelerator. Jonathan Katz Moses did a video recently recommending the tape sold by Taytools.
The whole purpose of the accelerator is to drive the cyanoacrylate to a basic PH level, which is required for proper reaction. This is why you see a lot of homemade versions on the internet using baking soda, which works well, but can leave a residue.
I’ll be experimenting with this later this summer.
Clay
ctenos45069, glad to hear you liked this one brother! You bring up quite a lot of good points about using CA glue.
Hey Bro - Great job on a video that addresses a subject that is not usually well addressed. For me, I generally use top clamps (made from wood), or a combination of top clamps & double-sided tape (when I have a cutout inside in the project I am working on), as the majority of my projects are made with thin wood (usually .250" or less), and some of the other clamps do not work well with thin wood.
alpscraftshack, glad to hear you liked this one. Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks on clamping. Happy CNCing.
Ok. . Heres something I have so far not heard of anybody else doing.
Due to a minor design error when I built my cnc, My spoil board was too low.
Z travel downwards was insufficient for small or short cutters to reach.
I had my 25mm MDF nicely surfaced and made another sheet to go on top of it.
The layer below it was surfaced as I said. . And good factory fresh mdf is as flat as I can mesure, so I did not surface the new top face.
The smooth and seemingly denser factory surface of mdf takes the tape/ca glue fixing method MUCH more securely than a surfaced and sealed mdf surface does.
I conclude that my error was nothing of the sort. I merely have greater intelligence and foresight than I am aware of!
😇
russellferriday8191, thanks for sharing your perspective on this one brother. Everything you do in CNC is a new lesson!
Great video!
I've used all of these methods at one time or another, with the exception of using a vice. The one thing I hadn't considered was if you are clamping a piece that includes a cutout toolpath, and don't do something to retain the cutout piece - such as tabs - it will come loose and likely be damaged by the router bit. So for pieces that have some type of cutouts, I use the tape and superglue method. Clamps will get in the way, and toe clamps won't retain the cutout piece. I'm sure there are other methods as well.
I am so glad you mentioned this! I thought about it after the video was posted. Cam clamps can be a real issue when doing a cutout. This is exactly the type of comment I wanted to have. Thank you
Great video, so informative. Really appreciate you taking the time to make all of these videos.
davidpudney2488, Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Stay tuned for more woodworking tips and tricks.
a little tip on double sided tape , dont cut it at the end . when applying the tape pull the backing back keeping some of the backing in place . cut only the tape not the backing material leave that. before making the cut of the tape take a back handle of the putty knife and press it to the work piece . I saw this tip online and have been using it ever since.. peeling that backing material is a pain in the neck
robertkrueger3902, that is a very good idea brother! Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks.
I think vacuum is the way to go.
For mass production, Yes
johnjeffrey-tc3gt, good call brother. I couldn't agree more.
This is an important but often overlooked topic. It needed this deep dive. Well done!
eitantal726, thanks brother! Glad you liked this one.
I hav used blue tape on both the table and work piece , and when add the double sided tape to hold the work piece to the table.
scottdennis6658, good call brother! That is a great method.
Does anyone offer a battery-operated nylon nailer?
johnterdik4707, Yes, there are battery-operated nailers available in the market. You can check with various tool manufacturers like DeWalt, Makita, or Ryobi for options that suit your needs.
Thanks Garrett! Cute legs!!
BarryFranzen, glad to hear you liked this one brother.
Any reason you didn’t suggest using bench dogs and wedges?
Oh crap. I wish I talked to you before I did this video. Completely forget 🤔
@@IDCWoodcraft
No worries, I have an old Chinese 90cm x 60cm desktop CNC with a 1.2 K-watt spindle with a MACH-3 Pc based controller for controlling the machine. Many years ago I created a waste board that used these. I machined some brass dogs and location pins which really helped me with rapid prototyping parts that would eventually be made with plastic injection molding. I used to have these parts made through Stereolithography (SLA) 3D printing which cost about $1000 each and took a week to get.
I’m thinking about getting the Sienci Labs Altmill with a PWNCNC ATC. Do you have any thoughts on this setup?
With cam clamps I have found down cut or straight bits less troublesome than up cut bits. The vibration from router speed and the upward pull of the upcut can cause the workpiece to lift. Great video Garrett.
ronc1231, good call brother! Im glad you liked this video.
Great video. I ve used all the methods you have described, except for vacuum ($$$$). I tried the masking tape/super glue after watching your video, and its worked well except that i was spending a lot of time removing residue from the spoil board. Much prefer the double sided tape, which you also introduced me to. Thanks so much for sharing.
user-qx4yb9kn6h, glad to hear you liked this one brother! All clamping methods have their pros/cons and it sounds like you have the right tool for the job.
Another wonderful video. Well done Garrett! Very detailed; going through things slowly and thoroughly as you always do. Plus of course, all the links below. Thank you Garrett!
gregsettle1581, you are so welcome my friend.
Great video Garrett. You never disappoint. Do you have a file for the cam clamps? I have started liking the tape method. I ordered the tape you use and just got it. Thanks👊😎
SteveSchippel, that is a good method brother! Keep up the good work.
Very Good comments! I liked how you showed "How strong" the methods can be and How details matter in Setup of materials and setup of hold downs. You have some very good videos on Spoil Board Prep and Maintenance. Keep up the good work!
BitsandBytesLarry, glad to hear you liked this one brother. Happy CNCing.
Most of my projects involve complet cut through which results in using tape. To help preserve my spoil board I will tape the project to a 1/4 in cheap plywood and then use clamps to secure this to my spoil board. The plywood can be used for several project and easily discarded when it gets too cut up. Great videos - keep up the good work!!
maxjones8923, tape with the plywood underlayment is a great method brother! Thanks for sharing your perspective
My preferred method is to use a brad/pin nailer. They are smaller gauge, hold the project in place, and are very quick to use. With thicker boards, I toenail the brads and it works great! I have used tape, which sometimes fails. I have used clamps, but I always have to take them into consideration when programming for Z axis to make sure the router clears them, plus I need a lot more excess material to hold the project in place. Great video as always! Always very informative!
Chief069, good call brother! A brad nailer is a great choice, easy too!
I like vacuum but 95% my parts are cutting right too the waste board so I lose vacuum pressure right away and I cut 10 parts or more. I use double sided tape
customwalldisplay, good call brother! You need to have the right tool for the job and it sounds like you have it.
Thanks Garrett for your very informative video. I mainly use the glue and tape method but for smaller projects i use 2 sided tape. i've tried clamps but they seem to get in the way. Would love to try the vacuum system but not set up for it.
ronnorris1504, you are so welcome brother. Happy to hear that you have the right setup for your needs. You can always upgrade to vacuum later!
What about wooden wedges ? with dogs, or in combination with eccentric clamps
hanspijpers2100, that would work great too brother. Good call!
Hi, Good video, some one says that cnc with vacum it's not prefered, what you can say about
mustaphakabou3827, it all depends on what you are looking to make brother!
I have a smaller HD500 machine that I am still learning to use.
chuckstonex1632, that is a great machine to start out brother! Happy CNCing.
Thanks!
tedlebow5119, thanks for the support brother! Happy CNCing.
🙌🏼🤘
Sh1tzboutagodown, glad you liked this one brother.