Thanks to everyone for the great comments and 1000 subscribers! I've started a Patreon to help make more reviews possible which will include giveaways and behind the scenes. Please consider supporting for more unsponsored reviews! Link: www.patreon.com/eddito3Dreviews
I appreciate the honesty. This is the first non-sponsored review of the Mini 4k I've found, let alone one that actually lists problems. Glad they all seem to be fixable for the most part. A few people have even posted arm supports on Thingi and other sites. Edit: I now actually have one of these. The tape around the LCD seemed thinner than presented in the video at first, but after a few issues, I took it off and measured it - it's around 0.12-0.16mm thick measured at different points. I replaced it with some kapton tape, which is 0.06mm thick, and I'm having SIGNIFICANTLY less issues with my prints now. Other than that, aside from the re-education on supports going from FDM to DLP leading to some failed prints, everything seems good so far. The arm flex did concern me, and seemed to lead to layer shifts under some conditions, so I fabricated a diagonal reinforcement from aluminum to keep it from flexing. This transferred the flexing from the build plate arm to the actual lifter strut (where the MGN12 and lead screw run up through to move the build plate arm). More reinforcement may be necessary over time, but this reinforcement has also contributed to less print failures. As it is NOW, after those two modifications, it's printing reliably and with fantastic quality. But that's a lot of fooling around for a $400 printer, isn't it?
Thank you for this video Eddito, I've bought it some days ago, now I'm testing this printer and I see some improvements on the machine: Better joint on the arm, almost no pop sound, almost not uv light from the sides, almost no oddor (I use the Aqua-Gray 4k resin). So it seems they listen you about this problems! Again thank you for the video and I'll keep doing the firsts tests 😁
One of the best reviews on this product most others seem to have been given the printer to review for free which straight away makes you question the review. Thanks
I've gotta say, this has definitely made me rethink my recent purchase, its extremely nice to see that I have a source to look toward to troubleshoot a solution.
Thank you for publishing such a high quality content. I normally don’t even bother to comment or sub. But after watching the whole video. I just had to subscribe. You deserve way more.
What a phenomenal review! I actually have one of these sitting in my Amazon cart and with no compelling need to get my first 3d printer, I think I am going to wait for some other 4k options to come out.
@@BrickBazooka The Elegoo Saturn is a 8.9" printer. It's larger and therefore doesn't have the pixel density of the 6" 4K LCD that the Sonic Mini 4K has. Don't just jump on the 4K marketing. The pixel density (XY resolution) is important. 8.9" 4K printers have 50 microns XY resolution, 6" 4K printers have 35 microns XY resolution and 5.5" 4K printers have 31 microns XY resolution. The older 5.5" 2K printers have 47 microns XY resolution. The older Solus printers could go down to 25 microns. But they are not affordable and the build volume is small. They are still used to make master models for resin casting (mostly 32 mm, 54 mm, 75 mm and busts).
@@Holztransistor is this really a thing with the density? Can you see 30 microns vs 50 microns with your eye when you print action figures 12"? Sure if you want to print miniatures then I would go for the sonic mini 4k also.. but I want to print bigger
@@BrickBazooka Higher density is always better. For "action figures" it might not matter (what do you classify as action figure?). But if I want to make collectible statues on the same quality level as Sideshow statues, it does matter. It also matters for scale models. What I do: Print larger parts of statues on the Saturn. Print heads, hands, boots (the parts where a loss of detail is noticable) on the smaller 4K printer. But not the SM4K. I have ordered the Longer Orange 4K. You can print 1/6 scale figures on the smaller printer. They just need to be split into parts. Like this one. www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/black-cat-4967a121-3ab1-4e29-930e-a9f06eb2378b
SUBSCRIBED! I had actually given up on my Mini 4K. This video has been a revelation. Thank you so much for this video. I bought this printer with such high hopes and stopped printing because of my disappointment.
You’re supposed to takeoff the reservoir tank when you level the bed the sheet of paper as a barrier between the screen and the bedplate. Also when you send the bedplate do not go in a circular motion only stand it in one direction you’re trying to create grip not smooth out the plate
Why are you telling him to use paper to level the build plate when the video shows him doing exactly that at 12:15, the exact time he talks about leveling the build plate......
Absolutely fantastic review! I was on the verge of ordering a Sonic Mini 4K because I find all the current small-format 2K printers to lack the sort of detail I'm looking for in 15-28mm scale minis (at least for what I need for my purposes). At first, I was really drawn to the extreme crispness of the 4K prints (at 0.02 layer heights) vs 2K prints; i.e. edges are sharper, more subtle details (texture, ripples, hair) reproduced, less layer lines, etc. After a bit more investigation though, I noticed a few people complaining about build plate issues, the LCD/vat gap, and most of all, failure of the Z-rod/motor/bearing threads. After watching your excellent review, it seems pretty obvious that the deflection in the build plate arm is possibly placing frequent and unnecessary force and friction on the z-rod/bearing threads, eventually wearing/damaging them and leading to failures. As an owner of a CR10S, I'm no stranger to modding printers, but, for $599 CAD, I'm not sure I can ignore - or be bothered to fix - that flexible arm. Sadly, I just have to hope and wait for Elegoo or AnyCubic to produce small-format 4K LCD printers (or maybe Phrozen will fix these defects). So this is a bitter-sweet review for me: great that you've potentially saved me from a ton of headaches but now I either have to settle for 2K or wait until potentially Q4 2021 for new 4K printers to come on the market.
Sooo Did you get another printer yet? if so wich one im looking ti buy a replacement for my anet n4. Im curious im looking for details for modelboatparts.
Thanks!!! I've been grudgingly staring at my SM4k for four weeks now not printing anything because of repeated failures. Very thorough video. Excited to rip that tape off and level it properly! Thanks again!!
Funny thing is, the same printer just arrived and i made a few test prints. My version of the printer has none of the flaws that are mentioned here. They fixed all the issues. The FEP doesn't really pop when printing and there is no large gap like mentioned here.
This is a fantastic review. I find it extremely helpful. Your observations are ones that I haven't seen anyone else bring up in a video. Like the loud fep, the spacing under the vat, the flex of the z bar. Etc. Thanks a bunch for the honesty and smart points.
Bravo Eddito2.0, best honest review of the SM4K by far! Your outline of the flaws followed up with solutions was superb. You just gained one more subscriber!!
Thank you for these insights, just got this printer and will keep an eye on the NFEP and Taping issue. Also kudos to your superb editing on this review!!
Your video is way too professional for your subscriber count lol, good job!. I don't own one of these just wanted to hear why isn't it the second coming of jesus, I do print a lot of small objects that require high detail resolution, but I'm not going to buy a machine with these kind of flaws. Thanks!
I am or maybe was looking at this machine as well. They do have an absolutely amazing line of resins available for all sorts of applications I hadn’t even thought of. So the versatility is what drew me, although I imagine you could use them with other printers. I was excited about the price point of this unit, and even the one down from this, the original mini. I had heard about certain changes they’ve made since it launched to improve the new unit. So the question is at what point in production was his unit is from.
What an excellent review!!! I have an phrozen mini 4k and could not solve print failure issues. This review answers many questions I had. Really good job!!! Appreciated!
SUBSCRIBED ! Best review of a resin printer I've seen so far (and I've watched quite a lot), and a reasonable amount of humor. Thanks and keep it up ! :)
Hello, nice review! After long hesitation i bought it for the precision one and received it today. I havent test it yet, but i notice they changed their design, its look they fix the issues you mention The system to hold it is completely different, and looks much better
Was looking at buying this and your awesome review made me pause as someone new to 3D printing. Thank you for making it clear for us. I've subscribed :)
Thanks for your honest (and clear!) explanation of your experience and fixes! I bought a sonic mini 4k last week, and I have indeed problems with some parts bending from the build plate or areas of parts bending upwards between supports, and I will try and replace that tape around the LCD. Because I believe that a layer that is bent (from curing) will continue to be bent when the FEP film is flexing and the new layer is cured. About the popping sound issue: I believe they designed this bracket to attach the build plate to be slightly flexible. If I am not mistaken, this bracket is preloaded in downward direction as a cheap way to remove any play in the Z direction. that nasty sound you hear when the FEP film sticks too much, is the play being introduced and removed very quickly, i.e. the bracket snapping back to zero play. So for people who are trying to fix this issue with the bracket, I would suggest trying nFEP film first and wait with making adjustments to the bracket, since the Z axis will become less accurate if accidentally play is introduced. I would love to hear if you agree :)
Thankyou your identification of the tape issue I think will help my Mighty 4k prints too. I used some kapton tape to replace it with which is much thinner
Exactly what I needed to hear, I'm thinking about buying it but I hear a lot of possible problems with it, thank you so much for the clear review, subscribed!
I should have watched your review before purchasing mine but you really helped in fixing my prints with that tape fix. I for the life of me didn't understand why my prints were failing and had the same suggestions of level the build plate or check the resin temp. You really helped out and anyone interested in getting a psm4k should watch your vid.
An actual honest review. Take that internet. I really appreciated your in depth look at machine, both it's practical results and it's mechanical shortcomings. I was looking at the Phrozen sonic mini 4K vs taking a chance waiting on a Longer Orange 3k (mono). Your review flipped that decision toward the Longer, which I think is ending up a good decision. So thank you very much. On that decision: I have a CNC router that I use to cut alu and brass all the time, and I repair & calibrate machine shop equipment for a living. bearing this in mind: *All the upgrades you suggested for the P S Mini 4k are all well within my capabilities. *That said, they still take buying parts, and the biggest factor is my time. If I threw out time and just look at buying some Chinese rails and a ballscrew, I'd get very close to price of the Longer Orange 4k, assuming no mistakes were made and I didn't care about voiding my warranty. All to basically end up being comparable to the machine which already starts with a metal frame, 2 larger rails and a larger screw. ***for most people, they don't have a cnc router in their garage and don't have the know how. For them, that choice becomes even more weighted toward the Longer. Don't think I'm against the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k. I think it's a great machine, and I almost bought one. It gets great prints. If I was on a more limited budget, with its 35micron 4k screen it would have been my choice hands down. And you can use it how it is and decide later if you want or need to upgrade it. But I just paid off student loans, and my budget is pretty free right now. Starting with the better/heavier built machine and with some of the cool new features (like x3 Y resolution!), the Longer pulled ahead in nearly every category I compared, stacking up to an obvious choice.
Wow - I'm a bit late to this thread, but my first foray into resin was the Creality LD-002H. I got an incredible deal at just US$99. Of course, I found out how FEP is "supposed" to work the hard way and then took a crash course in replacing it. Now, after 4 months and a few experimental Kg of wasted resin, I'm getting great prints. One thing that I would love to see is a replacement 4K screen for this little guy. I've absolutely zero complaints about the LD-002H now that I've wrestled it into submission, but I would be curious to see what doubling the pixel density would do for some of my functional part prints (versus minis). One more thing that I've learned is that the choice of resin and calibration are very, very necessary pairings. After balancing expense versus performance, I've settled on SunLU and AnyCUBIC for my resins and have saved resin-specific settings in Lychee Slicer depending on which I am using for a given project. The difference in the proper exposure is almost .8 seconds per layer - and that difference makes a huge difference in the success rate of the prints with the AnyCUBIC failures increasing if I stay with the 2.1 sec I use for the SunLU resin. I also stopped playing with different colors since that can also drastically affect the exposure requirements.
Thanks for the video. I am trying to learn more about 3D printers. It seems to me that you addressed a lot of important factors prospect buyers should consider. Most videos I found seem more marketing oriented and less beneficial to users. Congrats! I am now a subscriber.
Thank you for this review. I was considering getting this printer, but that whole arm flexing thing, that did it for me. I think I'll go with the Mars 2 Pro. I know this isn't a 4K printer, but at least I know it's good.
It didn't help me at all on 4K, all I got outta this video was the issues with the phrozen Sonic 4K 3D printer. 4K is always the way to to with 3D printing. I think this machine just has a few to many flaws :(
Hi, interesting. I have the Mini 4 K since last Nvemeber and I consistently get good results without the modifications you describe. My first print, the Prozen ring however failed using the out of the box settings in Chitubox for Phrozen Mini 4K. It stuck to the FEP instead of the plate. The only changes to the settings I made is increasing exposure time for the first layer to 80 sec and 6 sec per layer for the rest and this works for me. I now tried the new 4 k resin from Phrozen and it gives even better results then the standard resin I used before. I am not printing miniatures like you did but 1:100 scale arts for my RC model ship. Perhaps that is why do not see the problems you have. If parts of my prints did not come out well it was mostly support settings or orientation of the print which needed to be improved. Still, good tips if I run into general problems.
I was considering purchasing this printer but am having second thoughts now. SO far I have avoided investing in a 3D printer because if the detail quality but now they have started producing 4K screens I was thinking about it, however I would only want to invest in something with a good build quality too. Not a fan of cheapo constructed machines where they cut corners to cut costs. Thanks for the video.
@@Streamcatcher most people use. 3 in 1 ftpe lube , i use blaster dry lube with teflon and remove the exess . i also recently replaced the black tape of the screen with kapton tape.
Thank you for pointing out these issues. Will definitely be removing the tape, as well as strengthening the top bar. I have a couple of aluminum stock sitting around, so it's time to screw in some support structures.
Ouch - I really thought this was my printer but design flaws like those mean I'll prob wait some more and wait for the v2.0 I'll also be checking your review of it too Subscribe is a no brainer for this depth of practical understanding, you almost make me feel like a grownup, great job.
In 4k mini, display is not in line with the base (black tape around ). Therefore, sometimes the gap between the display and the fep film cannot be well estimated. If u have some misprints try Calib Z with resin vat on it. I can guarantee you it's the best way. I print nonstop and I have 0 misprints.
Hi Ondrej! Yes, you are right about the tape not being in line! That was one of the first things I noticed and I actually cut the edges of the tape a bit wider to be sure the plate fit, but I didn't have any improvement afterwards so found it better to just remove the tape completely. I'm glad you were able to level it with the resin vat, I agree this is a good way (I do it often with my other printers), but it didn't work for me or a number of people I spoke to on this printer.
@@eddito2.049 same here. I level on vat too. Got improvement once I replaced the black tape. The video explains well the problem. If fep sits too high above the screen, thats not good
I've had my 4k for a few months now, had a lot of similar issues, but it was all FEP related - I replaced the factory FEP and tightened as much as I could - this removed the pop layer noise (outside of the initial bottom layer pops - the ones you're getting in the video are very bad, definitely tighten your FEP further) - I didnt need to redo my tape, sure, its not 100% flat, but the much longer exposure for the bottom layers account for this issue. Curious why you mention a poorly sanded build plate could damage the FEP when the build plate should never touch the FEP. I have since put in an nFEP which produces much better results - while I already had it to a satisfactory level, I was printing at 2.4s /layer at 0.04, but now I'm running at 2s layers with the nFEP and those super fine details are crisper than ever. Not a printer for a beginner (this was my second printer after the standard Sonic Mini) but a great printer for the price if you dont mind putting in some extra work.
@@Jake-mu2zm Sonic Mini was super reliable, that was my first printer (cheapest sonic mini, with the red plastic top) - however nowadays thats pretty old tech for resin printers, if you've got the money, the Sonic Mighty is definitely my pick, I have 2 of them now, extremely rare to have an issue, and the large build plate is more useful than you'd think when it comes to printing even small miniatures, I can easily print 10 minis in the same time as it would take to print 2-3 on the mini, so it saves 'a lot' of time, and I can only recall 1 fail in the past few months.
@@Jake-mu2zm I always recommend an nFEP over the factory standard FEP - but personally I found the Mighty 4K to be even more reliable than the standard sonic mini, which was already much more reliable than the mini 4k - no issues I experienced with the mini 4k occurred on the mighty or standard mini. Just be sure to order an nFEP with whichever printer you buy, use the factory installed one when you get it - but once its time to replace it, use the nFEP from that point on. (as they do wear out - and you're far more likely to damage the FEP yourself when you're new to resin printing)
@@IJJusion Thank you so much! I greatly appreciate your advice. I will be looking at the mighty then for thr future:) I just don't want to worry about doing all these work arounds mentioned in the video for that price I'd rather put it towards the mighty then :) Again, thanks for being so helpful!
Sweet! I just Pre ordered the Elegoo Mars 3 4K It will be my first printer I am very excited :) It wont be shipping until August 30th and will take 7 or so days but I Subbed to four of them its super cheap well worth it and I will have a backlog of some stuff to pick when my printer comes :)
I like to use Sugru to seal the edges of my resin printer lcd's. It's a non-conductive moldable silicone putty that sticks well to clean surfaces that once cured is basically a liquid tight silicone seal you can peal off when you need to (similar to a good hot glue gun adhesion). You have a good working time and can smooth it easily by hand so you can have as thick/thin/flush of a seal ring around the screen without interfering with anything while still being easy to clean off the LCD so no-one knows you handled it as cleanly as a toddler with playdough.
I used the included sandpaper and had no problems with the FEP. My first few prints did fail or look ugly. I talked to them and they gave me the settings that they use in the factory, then I tweaked those a little with a calibration print and fixed all problems.
@@Cless_Aurion I really want to get into 3D resin printing now the print quality is better than a few years ago but there seems to be too much faffing about and too many people complaining of failed prints and issues with their machines etc. It's almost as if it's just pot luck whether you get a good machine or not that doesn't need to much fixing out of the box.
@@PINACI If you want to get into it, now its a good moment to do so. I was waiting since the 2010s and jumped in now. There is a lot of people complaining, but because of the amount of new people getting into the hobby, there is a massive influx of new people that don't know shit too. It still has its issues of course, but remember that only the people with issues complains. The ones that are happy and everything works for them don't go around spreading it like the people that hate it. At the moment the process is complicated because of the materials. There is a chance that your printer might come defective, but then warranty kicks in and you just get a new one, like with any other product. Most of this issues people are complaining about are resolved technological speaking already from quite a while ago. They are on the actual "good" printers, the ones that cost around ~$3000 to $5000(I put the air quotes because the really good ones are x10 that easy). That's where you get "resin cartridges" and flexible double FEPs with heated chambers and things like that that will control for all the variables that most people fail to realize, specially when starting. Probably none of that will be massproduced in the under $1000 range in the near/mid future so.... its a good moment to get in.
Great review....just wondering though...if you put the thumb screws that hold the vat down the right way up would that hold the vat firmer as the thin end would locate into the hole on the top of the vat better?
I really wish I saw this earlier, I probably would have bought a different printer Oh well, I guess I'll see how it goes in 3 weeks when it finally ships Amazing video, you just earned yourself another subscriber!
I've been struggling with this choice for so long. thank you for this video. It laid out the facts and helped me make the right decision for me. Spoiler, going with the Anycubic Mono
Fantastic review. I'm new to printing and this video has highlighted things I can do to fix my constantly failing prints. Bracing the arm may be a thing I need to do as my last prints all failed on the front edge which suggests to me the flexing may be a problem.
Great video, and I totally agree with you on all the comments you have on the SM4K. I already had an issue with the black tape on the first day of owning it as I couldn’t level the bed properly, I am going to give your tape fix a go to see if it makes a difference for me.
Pretty much all the mechanical issues seem to be fixed in the phrozen sonic 4k. I assume they were all compromises to reduce the cost from the std to the mini? Looking forward to see more 4k printers with this screen size.
I'm thinking of buying this as I need a smaller screen 4K resin 3D printer for printing jewellery, I'm thinking I'm going to wait though. The light leak, the sound and the bar bending under tension is enough to put me off from buying this. I was really hoping I had found "my printer" 😭
@@fellowape5923 thanks for the tip. Finally got the cash to buy a program, I'm debating on just doing an apprenticeship first though. That blows about matrix Gold :(
It also depends on the stl being used. If you get an stl designed to be printed at a larger scale that is also highly detailed, you'll notice the difference.
Interesting video. Came here due to looking up another issue that other people seem to have had with this printer. Mostly out of curiosity though, as I've had mine for about 3 months of constant use now and have never had any issues (that weren't caused by my resin settings being incorrect). I have the same build plate arm, and the same black tape around the screen, and I assume the same fep screen. But nothing seems to flex and there's no issues with print quality. I've been doing some searching just to try and keep on top of things in case something -does- go wrong, as it's obviously very worrying!
@@asimhussain8716 I've had zero issues with mine, and mine is an original run device. They've actually updated it recently with some minor tweaks which apparently help with issues (but I've not been having the issues even on the older version so no idea)
You can see how easy it would be to sort out that flex in the build plate support... during manufacture. All they'd have to do is include two aluminium triangular plates with holes that line up with threaded holes in the vertical and horizontal sides of the build plate attachment to the shaft, meaning that right-angle between the two parts would remain constant - no flex. The plates/braces wouldn't get in the way of any of the knobs either.
Great video! Concerning the bill you got later, that is normal for a lot of countries when importing. Most countries charge duty fees over a certain amount if the package isn't marked as a gift. It's sadly something you have to factor in when buying anything overseas. Sometimes you can get the charges lowered if you contact the shipping company though.
Thanks buddy. I think I will buy. I play Warhammer and sometimes find I need specific "bits" like right tnow I am in dire need of "left hands" for my little guys. Buying a few left "arms" costs, on the cheap end, a dollar each arm...and upwards of three dollars depending on what they are holding. I have easily spent 400 dollars on such "bits" in years past. Would have been SOOOO much easier and cheaper if I could just print the tiny part I need. Definitely will follow your "how to fix" guide.
Thanks for the “design flaw” and noise info. It seems doable and not a deal breaker for me. I’m all about the resolution. :) Btw, you have the slightest European accent, but you really sound American, that’s pretty impressive. There are lots of mannerisms that non-Americans don’t get. But you do. (or are you actually an American who picked up a bit of a Euro accent? 😂😂) Oh one other thing, your mic sound quality is INSANE. Are you using more than one mic to record your voice? Which mics are you using, if I may ask?
I wonder if the arm deflection is phrozens budget take on the rocking vat system seen on more expensive units? Assuming it always returns to its proper condition it shouldn't effect the print results in any way, and im not sure it particularly effects the load on the motor.
after you level the build plate on the phrozen sonic mini 4k... if you power off the machine... then power it on a day or a week later... will it remember your leveling settings?? or do you have to level it again after powering it off? thanks (please give my comment a thumbs up if you reply so that i am notified)
Hi everyone! A number of very knowledgeable people have pointed out that Customs/VAT taxes are standard when importing from other countries, and that I should have been aware of that. They are absolutely correct!! However: this doesn't change anything in the actual review... it is still an added cost for a large user base accustomed to seeing an all inclusive price tag even on imported products, and I'm fairly certain many newcomers will easily make the same mistake. Hopefully my oversight will make them aware of this in advance, prevent surprise, and help give a clearer expected price - - at least for European buyers. Currently, I have seen the SM4K available from EU retailers for 389 - 405 euros, or roughly $475, this may change.
I live in France and I had the same $urprise as you :(... I bought the printer + 2 bottles of resin: the shipping cost was 100 dollars (50 for the printer and 50 for the resin), and when the printer arrived I had to pay 100 euros in taxes. So in the end, the printer cost me 475 euros :/ . It is my first 3D printer and I think it would have been better (for the price) to buy a anycubic or an elegoo. However, the quality and the tiny details are amazing, despite the price, I'm happy with the printer :) I put some silicon lubricant on the fep, and actually works really well, so far, no sticking problems in the vat. Thank you for sharing the tips to solve the problem of the black tape and the gap between the screen and the floor of the vat, I'm gonna change that right now! This was a really good review, keep it up man!
I'm not a person who is reading a forums or comment anything. I've ordered my Mighty Printer 2nd of November 2020. First e-mail which I get from them was that; printer will be avalible mid december 2020. On the order summary I have black and white information as printer price, shipment price and ant the tax price which is 0.0$. Today is 27/01/2021 The tax rules are changed in the UK, they printer itself its on its way, and is being shiped by a company which is totaly different than the one on the order summary. There is comming three boxes which one of them is probably resin, so 3x50GBP extra cost, I assume. So I send them an email describing all situation. Why should I paid the tax which is result of their delays??. As their response I got very unpleasnt email telling me that If I want to refund printer it must be unused, I would be double charge for shipment including all taxes + their extra deductions. In Conclusion think twice before you order it, be prepare for one of the worst customer services you will be deal with :(
>>> Here are 2 kits that fix the bending of the Z and Y axis of the Sonic Mini. Y-AXIS www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/reinforced-build-plate-support-for-phrozen-sonic-mini-mini-4k Z.AXIS www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/z-axis-reinforcement-square-for-phrozen-sonic-mini-mini-4k
Thanks to everyone for the great comments and 1000 subscribers! I've started a Patreon to help make more reviews possible which will include giveaways and behind the scenes. Please consider supporting for more unsponsored reviews! Link: www.patreon.com/eddito3Dreviews
I appreciate the honesty. This is the first non-sponsored review of the Mini 4k I've found, let alone one that actually lists problems. Glad they all seem to be fixable for the most part. A few people have even posted arm supports on Thingi and other sites.
Edit: I now actually have one of these. The tape around the LCD seemed thinner than presented in the video at first, but after a few issues, I took it off and measured it - it's around 0.12-0.16mm thick measured at different points. I replaced it with some kapton tape, which is 0.06mm thick, and I'm having SIGNIFICANTLY less issues with my prints now. Other than that, aside from the re-education on supports going from FDM to DLP leading to some failed prints, everything seems good so far. The arm flex did concern me, and seemed to lead to layer shifts under some conditions, so I fabricated a diagonal reinforcement from aluminum to keep it from flexing. This transferred the flexing from the build plate arm to the actual lifter strut (where the MGN12 and lead screw run up through to move the build plate arm). More reinforcement may be necessary over time, but this reinforcement has also contributed to less print failures. As it is NOW, after those two modifications, it's printing reliably and with fantastic quality. But that's a lot of fooling around for a $400 printer, isn't it?
Is there some way you can share a pic of your modification?
Great honest review. You are the 1st to not only mention the flaws, but also work arounds, and fixes, if there is one. Thank you.
Thank you for this video Eddito, I've bought it some days ago, now I'm testing this printer and I see some improvements on the machine: Better joint on the arm, almost no pop sound, almost not uv light from the sides, almost no oddor (I use the Aqua-Gray 4k resin). So it seems they listen you about this problems! Again thank you for the video and I'll keep doing the firsts tests 😁
One of the best reviews on this product most others seem to have been given the printer to review for free which straight away makes you question the review. Thanks
Skipped through reviews until I found one with timestamps like this one. Thanks for being considerate. Instant thumbs up.
I've gotta say, this has definitely made me rethink my recent purchase, its extremely nice to see that I have a source to look toward to troubleshoot a solution.
Thank you for publishing such a high quality content.
I normally don’t even bother to comment or sub.
But after watching the whole video.
I just had to subscribe. You deserve way more.
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it and thanks for your support!
Glad I watched this at random - I was about to buy this printer. Definet time to think on it.
Did you buy it
It works perfect for me, out of the box. Really plug 'n play.
What a phenomenal review! I actually have one of these sitting in my Amazon cart and with no compelling need to get my first 3d printer, I think I am going to wait for some other 4k options to come out.
Elegoo saturn?
yeah me too on the waiting on other options, and i mean the pixel density,
@@BrickBazooka The Elegoo Saturn is a 8.9" printer. It's larger and therefore doesn't have the pixel density of the 6" 4K LCD that the Sonic Mini 4K has. Don't just jump on the 4K marketing. The pixel density (XY resolution) is important. 8.9" 4K printers have 50 microns XY resolution, 6" 4K printers have 35 microns XY resolution and 5.5" 4K printers have 31 microns XY resolution. The older 5.5" 2K printers have 47 microns XY resolution. The older Solus printers could go down to 25 microns. But they are not affordable and the build volume is small. They are still used to make master models for resin casting (mostly 32 mm, 54 mm, 75 mm and busts).
@@Holztransistor is this really a thing with the density? Can you see 30 microns vs 50 microns with your eye when you print action figures 12"? Sure if you want to print miniatures then I would go for the sonic mini 4k also.. but I want to print bigger
@@BrickBazooka Higher density is always better. For "action figures" it might not matter (what do you classify as action figure?). But if I want to make collectible statues on the same quality level as Sideshow statues, it does matter. It also matters for scale models. What I do: Print larger parts of statues on the Saturn. Print heads, hands, boots (the parts where a loss of detail is noticable) on the smaller 4K printer. But not the SM4K. I have ordered the Longer Orange 4K. You can print 1/6 scale figures on the smaller printer. They just need to be split into parts. Like this one. www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/black-cat-4967a121-3ab1-4e29-930e-a9f06eb2378b
A 3d printer youtuber who actually knows what he's talking about. You are a first
SUBSCRIBED! I had actually given up on my Mini 4K. This video has been a revelation. Thank you so much for this video. I bought this printer with such high hopes and stopped printing because of my disappointment.
You’re supposed to takeoff the reservoir tank when you level the bed the sheet of paper as a barrier between the screen and the bedplate. Also when you send the bedplate do not go in a circular motion only stand it in one direction you’re trying to create grip not smooth out the plate
Why are you telling him to use paper to level the build plate when the video shows him doing exactly that at 12:15, the exact time he talks about leveling the build plate......
This seems to be the most thorough, straight-forward, and honest review I've found for this printer yet. TYVM!
Love this reviews man, cheers!
Absolutely fantastic review! I was on the verge of ordering a Sonic Mini 4K because I find all the current small-format 2K printers to lack the sort of detail I'm looking for in 15-28mm scale minis (at least for what I need for my purposes). At first, I was really drawn to the extreme crispness of the 4K prints (at 0.02 layer heights) vs 2K prints; i.e. edges are sharper, more subtle details (texture, ripples, hair) reproduced, less layer lines, etc. After a bit more investigation though, I noticed a few people complaining about build plate issues, the LCD/vat gap, and most of all, failure of the Z-rod/motor/bearing threads. After watching your excellent review, it seems pretty obvious that the deflection in the build plate arm is possibly placing frequent and unnecessary force and friction on the z-rod/bearing threads, eventually wearing/damaging them and leading to failures. As an owner of a CR10S, I'm no stranger to modding printers, but, for $599 CAD, I'm not sure I can ignore - or be bothered to fix - that flexible arm. Sadly, I just have to hope and wait for Elegoo or AnyCubic to produce small-format 4K LCD printers (or maybe Phrozen will fix these defects).
So this is a bitter-sweet review for me: great that you've potentially saved me from a ton of headaches but now I either have to settle for 2K or wait until potentially Q4 2021 for new 4K printers to come on the market.
Sooo
Did you get another printer yet?
if so wich one im looking ti buy a replacement for my anet n4.
Im curious im looking for details for modelboatparts.
Thanks!!! I've been grudgingly staring at my SM4k for four weeks now not printing anything because of repeated failures. Very thorough video. Excited to rip that tape off and level it properly! Thanks again!!
Glad the video could help and I hope it works out!
did it work?
How did the fixing work out for you?
Thank you for this video. You have helped me a lot with my buying decision and you have a new subscriber.
I wish I saw this video before buying mine, Welp I'll just follow all your troubleshooting and give it a go.
Great video, you've earned a subscriber
Definitely the most honest and helpful review ever seen.
Funny thing is, the same printer just arrived and i made a few test prints. My version of the printer has none of the flaws that are mentioned here. They fixed all the issues.
The FEP doesn't really pop when printing and there is no large gap like mentioned here.
This is a fantastic review. I find it extremely helpful. Your observations are ones that I haven't seen anyone else bring up in a video. Like the loud fep, the spacing under the vat, the flex of the z bar. Etc. Thanks a bunch for the honesty and smart points.
Bravo Eddito2.0, best honest review of the SM4K by far! Your outline of the flaws followed up with solutions was superb. You just gained one more subscriber!!
Thank you, this review felt very down-to-earth and honest! Much appriciated
Thank you for these insights, just got this printer and will keep an eye on the NFEP and Taping issue.
Also kudos to your superb editing on this review!!
how do you like it so far. Im still thinking of getting this printer as i think its not all true what this guy is saying.
@@tomoquads3975 I got the SM4K last February and I've been printing non-stop for months. I've had zero issues with the printer.
I would suggest replacing the cello tape with kapton tape. It is UV resistant.
Kapton leaks UV and is a bad choice on that premise alone.
Absolutely, completely and thoroughly true and accurate.. Excellent job of troubleshooting and providing fixes. Five stars: Excellent. Thank you!
Concise and honest. Really great review. I'm going to think twice about getting that one!
Your video is way too professional for your subscriber count lol, good job!.
I don't own one of these just wanted to hear why isn't it the second coming of jesus, I do print a lot of small objects that require high detail resolution, but I'm not going to buy a machine with these kind of flaws.
Thanks!
I am or maybe was looking at this machine as well. They do have an absolutely amazing line of resins available for all sorts of applications I hadn’t even thought of. So the versatility is what drew me, although I imagine you could use them with other printers.
I was excited about the price point of this unit, and even the one down from this, the original mini. I had heard about certain changes they’ve made since it launched to improve the new unit. So the question is at what point in production was his unit is from.
no kidding, I had to go check after you said that cause I just assumed somewhere in the 50k range
Incredibly useful, and detailed about both the issues faced, but also potential solutions / limitations of those solutions. Thanks for sharing.
This is a great review. I'm left feeling i would wait for a 2nd Gen for this one
What an excellent review!!! I have an phrozen mini 4k and could not solve print failure issues. This review answers many questions I had. Really good job!!! Appreciated!
This is probably the best review I've seen. Totally considering waiting a bit more to get a 3D printer now.
SUBSCRIBED ! Best review of a resin printer I've seen so far (and I've watched quite a lot), and a reasonable amount of humor. Thanks and keep it up ! :)
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Hello, nice review! After long hesitation i bought it for the precision one and received it today.
I havent test it yet, but i notice they changed their design, its look they fix the issues you mention
The system to hold it is completely different, and looks much better
Thanks a lot for this one of the best printer reviews I've ever seen!
Was looking at buying this and your awesome review made me pause as someone new to 3D printing. Thank you for making it clear for us. I've subscribed :)
Thanks and so glad it helped!
Thanks for your honest (and clear!) explanation of your experience and fixes! I bought a sonic mini 4k last week, and I have indeed problems with some parts bending from the build plate or areas of parts bending upwards between supports, and I will try and replace that tape around the LCD. Because I believe that a layer that is bent (from curing) will continue to be bent when the FEP film is flexing and the new layer is cured. About the popping sound issue: I believe they designed this bracket to attach the build plate to be slightly flexible. If I am not mistaken, this bracket is preloaded in downward direction as a cheap way to remove any play in the Z direction. that nasty sound you hear when the FEP film sticks too much, is the play being introduced and removed very quickly, i.e. the bracket snapping back to zero play. So for people who are trying to fix this issue with the bracket, I would suggest trying nFEP film first and wait with making adjustments to the bracket, since the Z axis will become less accurate if accidentally play is introduced. I would love to hear if you agree :)
great video ! thise are video worth watching till the end, thankx !
realy nice and detailed review! First youtuber with 3d printers videos i decide to subscribe
Thankyou your identification of the tape issue I think will help my Mighty 4k prints too. I used some kapton tape to replace it with which is much thinner
I found this very helpful, thank you.
I’d be really interested in your review of a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K
Yoooo - your audio what are you using? Great video, just what i was looking for about this printer
Wow, excellent review, I really appreciate the insights on the design flaws. Thanks!
Mine came yesterday, I'll report back after I do the updates as you did. I'm also adding nFEP.
Exactly what I needed to hear, I'm thinking about buying it but I hear a lot of possible problems with it, thank you so much for the clear review, subscribed!
that untaping sound has my cat's complete and undivided attention
The review is very interesting and well made, good job Eddito!! Happy new year.
I should have watched your review before purchasing mine but you really helped in fixing my prints with that tape fix. I for the life of me didn't understand why my prints were failing and had the same suggestions of level the build plate or check the resin temp. You really helped out and anyone interested in getting a psm4k should watch your vid.
I think the same. I already purchased mine and I'm doubtful about my action. Time will tell then
great video you have my like!
An actual honest review. Take that internet.
I really appreciated your in depth look at machine, both it's practical results and it's mechanical shortcomings.
I was looking at the Phrozen sonic mini 4K vs taking a chance waiting on a Longer Orange 3k (mono). Your review flipped that decision toward the Longer, which I think is ending up a good decision. So thank you very much.
On that decision:
I have a CNC router that I use to cut alu and brass all the time, and I repair & calibrate machine shop equipment for a living. bearing this in mind:
*All the upgrades you suggested for the P S Mini 4k are all well within my capabilities.
*That said, they still take buying parts, and the biggest factor is my time.
If I threw out time and just look at buying some Chinese rails and a ballscrew, I'd get very close to price of the Longer Orange 4k, assuming no mistakes were made and I didn't care about voiding my warranty. All to basically end up being comparable to the machine which already starts with a metal frame, 2 larger rails and a larger screw.
***for most people, they don't have a cnc router in their garage and don't have the know how. For them, that choice becomes even more weighted toward the Longer.
Don't think I'm against the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k. I think it's a great machine, and I almost bought one. It gets great prints. If I was on a more limited budget, with its 35micron 4k screen it would have been my choice hands down.
And you can use it how it is and decide later if you want or need to upgrade it.
But I just paid off student loans, and my budget is pretty free right now. Starting with the better/heavier built machine and with some of the cool new features (like x3 Y resolution!), the Longer pulled ahead in nearly every category I compared, stacking up to an obvious choice.
Muchas gracias era la opinión honesta que estaba buscando!!!
Wow - I'm a bit late to this thread, but my first foray into resin was the Creality LD-002H. I got an incredible deal at just US$99. Of course, I found out how FEP is "supposed" to work the hard way and then took a crash course in replacing it. Now, after 4 months and a few experimental Kg of wasted resin, I'm getting great prints. One thing that I would love to see is a replacement 4K screen for this little guy. I've absolutely zero complaints about the LD-002H now that I've wrestled it into submission, but I would be curious to see what doubling the pixel density would do for some of my functional part prints (versus minis).
One more thing that I've learned is that the choice of resin and calibration are very, very necessary pairings. After balancing expense versus performance, I've settled on SunLU and AnyCUBIC for my resins and have saved resin-specific settings in Lychee Slicer depending on which I am using for a given project. The difference in the proper exposure is almost .8 seconds per layer - and that difference makes a huge difference in the success rate of the prints with the AnyCUBIC failures increasing if I stay with the 2.1 sec I use for the SunLU resin. I also stopped playing with different colors since that can also drastically affect the exposure requirements.
Thanks for the video. I am trying to learn more about 3D printers. It seems to me that you addressed a lot of important factors prospect buyers should consider. Most videos I found seem more marketing oriented and less beneficial to users. Congrats! I am now a subscriber.
Thank you for this review. I was considering getting this printer, but that whole arm flexing thing, that did it for me. I think I'll go with the Mars 2 Pro. I know this isn't a 4K printer, but at least I know it's good.
Really well made review, It helped me a lot on understanding wether 4K is an interesting feature for printing in the future.
It didn't help me at all on 4K, all I got outta this video was the issues with the phrozen Sonic 4K 3D printer.
4K is always the way to to with 3D printing. I think this machine just has a few to many flaws :(
4:06 thats what she said
Hi, interesting. I have the Mini 4 K since last Nvemeber and I consistently get good results without the modifications you describe. My first print, the Prozen ring however failed using the out of the box settings in Chitubox for Phrozen Mini 4K. It stuck to the FEP instead of the plate. The only changes to the settings I made is increasing exposure time for the first layer to 80 sec and 6 sec per layer for the rest and this works for me. I now tried the new 4 k resin from Phrozen and it gives even better results then the standard resin I used before. I am not printing miniatures like you did but 1:100 scale arts for my RC model ship. Perhaps that is why do not see the problems you have. If parts of my prints did not come out well it was mostly support settings or orientation of the print which needed to be improved. Still, good tips if I run into general problems.
Awesome review! Thanks for the details!!!
Great and thorough review. Thanks! Subbed👍
I was considering purchasing this printer but am having second thoughts now. SO far I have avoided investing in a 3D printer because if the detail quality but now they have started producing 4K screens I was thinking about it, however I would only want to invest in something with a good build quality too. Not a fan of cheapo constructed machines where they cut corners to cut costs. Thanks for the video.
I have 2 , same problems as he but i learned and now it prints perfect , most of the problems where solved using ftpe lube.
@@aldoandresmendozaguerra8651 So you just apply siliconespray to the bottom of the resin container and it prints as it should?
@@Streamcatcher most people use. 3 in 1 ftpe lube , i use blaster dry lube with teflon and remove the exess . i also recently replaced the black tape of the screen with kapton tape.
Thank you for pointing out these issues. Will definitely be removing the tape, as well as strengthening the top bar. I have a couple of aluminum stock sitting around, so it's time to screw in some support structures.
Thank you for sharing !!
Okay, I was entertained. Great video!
Ouch - I really thought this was my printer but design flaws like those mean I'll prob wait some more and wait for the v2.0
I'll also be checking your review of it too
Subscribe is a no brainer for this depth of practical understanding, you almost make me feel like a grownup, great job.
Great review! Keep going!
The tape! I really wish I had thought of that... thank you for the solution that I've been looking for way too long.
In 4k mini, display is not in line with the base (black tape around ). Therefore, sometimes the gap between the display and the fep film cannot be well estimated. If u have some misprints try Calib Z with resin vat on it. I can guarantee you it's the best way. I print nonstop and I have 0 misprints.
Hi Ondrej! Yes, you are right about the tape not being in line! That was one of the first things I noticed and I actually cut the edges of the tape a bit wider to be sure the plate fit, but I didn't have any improvement afterwards so found it better to just remove the tape completely. I'm glad you were able to level it with the resin vat, I agree this is a good way (I do it often with my other printers), but it didn't work for me or a number of people I spoke to on this printer.
@@eddito2.049 same here.
I level on vat too.
Got improvement once I replaced the black tape.
The video explains well the problem. If fep sits too high above the screen, thats not good
@@eddito2.049 oki:( it work for me 100%. I just wanted to help. I think, we all got a slightly different machine😅
I've had my 4k for a few months now, had a lot of similar issues, but it was all FEP related - I replaced the factory FEP and tightened as much as I could - this removed the pop layer noise (outside of the initial bottom layer pops - the ones you're getting in the video are very bad, definitely tighten your FEP further) - I didnt need to redo my tape, sure, its not 100% flat, but the much longer exposure for the bottom layers account for this issue.
Curious why you mention a poorly sanded build plate could damage the FEP when the build plate should never touch the FEP.
I have since put in an nFEP which produces much better results - while I already had it to a satisfactory level, I was printing at 2.4s /layer at 0.04, but now I'm running at 2s layers with the nFEP and those super fine details are crisper than ever.
Not a printer for a beginner (this was my second printer after the standard Sonic Mini) but a great printer for the price if you dont mind putting in some extra work.
Does the standard sonic mini have these issues as well?
@@Jake-mu2zm Sonic Mini was super reliable, that was my first printer (cheapest sonic mini, with the red plastic top) - however nowadays thats pretty old tech for resin printers, if you've got the money, the Sonic Mighty is definitely my pick, I have 2 of them now, extremely rare to have an issue, and the large build plate is more useful than you'd think when it comes to printing even small miniatures, I can easily print 10 minis in the same time as it would take to print 2-3 on the mini, so it saves 'a lot' of time, and I can only recall 1 fail in the past few months.
@@IJJusion Thank you so much for the reply I really appreciate it! None of the issues with the mini carry over to that one?
@@Jake-mu2zm I always recommend an nFEP over the factory standard FEP - but personally I found the Mighty 4K to be even more reliable than the standard sonic mini, which was already much more reliable than the mini 4k - no issues I experienced with the mini 4k occurred on the mighty or standard mini.
Just be sure to order an nFEP with whichever printer you buy, use the factory installed one when you get it - but once its time to replace it, use the nFEP from that point on. (as they do wear out - and you're far more likely to damage the FEP yourself when you're new to resin printing)
@@IJJusion Thank you so much! I greatly appreciate your advice. I will be looking at the mighty then for thr future:) I just don't want to worry about doing all these work arounds mentioned in the video for that price I'd rather put it towards the mighty then :)
Again, thanks for being so helpful!
Sweet! I just Pre ordered the Elegoo Mars 3 4K It will be my first printer I am very excited :) It wont be shipping until August 30th and will take 7 or so days but I Subbed to four of them its super cheap well worth it and I will have a backlog of some stuff to pick when my printer comes :)
I like to use Sugru to seal the edges of my resin printer lcd's. It's a non-conductive moldable silicone putty that sticks well to clean surfaces that once cured is basically a liquid tight silicone seal you can peal off when you need to (similar to a good hot glue gun adhesion). You have a good working time and can smooth it easily by hand so you can have as thick/thin/flush of a seal ring around the screen without interfering with anything while still being easy to clean off the LCD so no-one knows you handled it as cleanly as a toddler with playdough.
I used the included sandpaper and had no problems with the FEP. My first few prints did fail or look ugly. I talked to them and they gave me the settings that they use in the factory, then I tweaked those a little with a calibration print and fixed all problems.
Same here! I was able to make my first print with it :D
www.artstation.com/artwork/Jg13d
@ Phil Nolan, And those settings are ???
@@PINACI You need to make a calibration to figure that out. It varies from printer to printer, resin to resin, even temperature variance and humidity.
@@Cless_Aurion I really want to get into 3D resin printing now the print quality is better than a few years ago but there seems to be too much faffing about and too many people complaining of failed prints and issues with their machines etc. It's almost as if it's just pot luck whether you get a good machine or not that doesn't need to much fixing out of the box.
@@PINACI If you want to get into it, now its a good moment to do so. I was waiting since the 2010s and jumped in now. There is a lot of people complaining, but because of the amount of new people getting into the hobby, there is a massive influx of new people that don't know shit too. It still has its issues of course, but remember that only the people with issues complains. The ones that are happy and everything works for them don't go around spreading it like the people that hate it.
At the moment the process is complicated because of the materials. There is a chance that your printer might come defective, but then warranty kicks in and you just get a new one, like with any other product.
Most of this issues people are complaining about are resolved technological speaking already from quite a while ago. They are on the actual "good" printers, the ones that cost around ~$3000 to $5000(I put the air quotes because the really good ones are x10 that easy).
That's where you get "resin cartridges" and flexible double FEPs with heated chambers and things like that that will control for all the variables that most people fail to realize, specially when starting.
Probably none of that will be massproduced in the under $1000 range in the near/mid future so.... its a good moment to get in.
Great review....just wondering though...if you put the thumb screws that hold the vat down the right way up would that hold the vat firmer as the thin end would locate into the hole on the top of the vat better?
I really wish I saw this earlier, I probably would have bought a different printer
Oh well, I guess I'll see how it goes in 3 weeks when it finally ships
Amazing video, you just earned yourself another subscriber!
i haven't had any issues with my first 4 prints but I'm also printing at .05 and printing larger prints.
the same boat man
@@Stagbot_Racing what is per day your opinion with this printer printing jewelry just as rings and small to medium sized pendants
@@Alex-co7gv i still love my sm4k but I mostly print miniatures and tokens. I think it would be fine for printing rings and pendants
I've been struggling with this choice for so long. thank you for this video. It laid out the facts and helped me make the right decision for me. Spoiler, going with the Anycubic Mono
Fantastic review. Informative and extremely helpful. Think I'll go with a different option
Wow, I'm glad I saw this review. I was looking to buy this printer but this tape business and design flaws are a deal-breaker for me.
Fantastic review. I'm new to printing and this video has highlighted things I can do to fix my constantly failing prints. Bracing the arm may be a thing I need to do as my last prints all failed on the front edge which suggests to me the flexing may be a problem.
Great video, and I totally agree with you on all the comments you have on the SM4K. I already had an issue with the black tape on the first day of owning it as I couldn’t level the bed properly, I am going to give your tape fix a go to see if it makes a difference for me.
How the result?
Pretty much all the mechanical issues seem to be fixed in the phrozen sonic 4k. I assume they were all compromises to reduce the cost from the std to the mini? Looking forward to see more 4k printers with this screen size.
I'm thinking of buying this as I need a smaller screen 4K resin 3D printer for printing jewellery, I'm thinking I'm going to wait though.
The light leak, the sound and the bar bending under tension is enough to put me off from buying this.
I was really hoping I had found "my printer" 😭
I'm in the exact same boat, just found and preordered the Longer Orange 4k, check it out, using Matrix Gold , excited for high quality prints !
@@SessleIsosceles Thanks I'll check it out. Awesome that you have martix gold 😍 It's so expensive in Canada :(
Good luck!
Kyle 0 Not gonna lie Matrix Gold didnt turn out to be all that. I have Matrix 9 and Gold, and still resort to using Matrix 9 due to its reliability
@@fellowape5923 thanks for the tip. Finally got the cash to buy a program, I'm debating on just doing an apprenticeship first though.
That blows about matrix Gold :(
Very interesting thank you
Good review. The manufacturer should work to address these issues.
It also depends on the stl being used. If you get an stl designed to be printed at a larger scale that is also highly detailed, you'll notice the difference.
Interesting video. Came here due to looking up another issue that other people seem to have had with this printer. Mostly out of curiosity though, as I've had mine for about 3 months of constant use now and have never had any issues (that weren't caused by my resin settings being incorrect). I have the same build plate arm, and the same black tape around the screen, and I assume the same fep screen. But nothing seems to flex and there's no issues with print quality. I've been doing some searching just to try and keep on top of things in case something -does- go wrong, as it's obviously very worrying!
@@asimhussain8716 I've had zero issues with mine, and mine is an original run device. They've actually updated it recently with some minor tweaks which apparently help with issues (but I've not been having the issues even on the older version so no idea)
Hey, I've used this printer for a while and none of issues you mentioned happened to me once.
You can see how easy it would be to sort out that flex in the build plate support... during manufacture. All they'd have to do is include two aluminium triangular plates with holes that line up with threaded holes in the vertical and horizontal sides of the build plate attachment to the shaft, meaning that right-angle between the two parts would remain constant - no flex. The plates/braces wouldn't get in the way of any of the knobs either.
@Eddito2.0 you can wipe your sheet down with ptfe lubricant this would help:)
thanks 4 this, subscribed!
Great video! Concerning the bill you got later, that is normal for a lot of countries when importing. Most countries charge duty fees over a certain amount if the package isn't marked as a gift. It's sadly something you have to factor in when buying anything overseas. Sometimes you can get the charges lowered if you contact the shipping company though.
Thanks buddy. I think I will buy. I play Warhammer and sometimes find I need specific "bits" like right tnow I am in dire need of "left hands" for my little guys. Buying a few left "arms" costs, on the cheap end, a dollar each arm...and upwards of three dollars depending on what they are holding. I have easily spent 400 dollars on such "bits" in years past. Would have been SOOOO much easier and cheaper if I could just print the tiny part I need. Definitely will follow your "how to fix" guide.
Thanks for the “design flaw” and noise info. It seems doable and not a deal breaker for me. I’m all about the resolution. :)
Btw, you have the slightest European accent, but you really sound American, that’s pretty impressive. There are lots of mannerisms that non-Americans don’t get. But you do. (or are you actually an American who picked up a bit of a Euro accent? 😂😂)
Oh one other thing, your mic sound quality is INSANE. Are you using more than one mic to record your voice? Which mics are you using, if I may ask?
I wonder if the arm deflection is phrozens budget take on the rocking vat system seen on more expensive units? Assuming it always returns to its proper condition it shouldn't effect the print results in any way, and im not sure it particularly effects the load on the motor.
if you could list from good to not soo good , what is your top 5 4k 3d printer make and models... great vid ty
Are you ? Someartguy? I saw your review on Amazon 👌 gang
after you level the build plate on the phrozen sonic mini 4k... if you power off the machine... then power it on a day or a week later... will it remember your leveling settings?? or do you have to level it again after powering it off? thanks (please give my comment a thumbs up if you reply so that i am notified)
You don't have to re-level.
Hi everyone! A number of very knowledgeable people have pointed out that Customs/VAT taxes are standard when importing from other countries, and that I should have been aware of that. They are absolutely correct!!
However: this doesn't change anything in the actual review... it is still an added cost for a large user base accustomed to seeing an all inclusive price tag even on imported products, and I'm fairly certain many newcomers will easily make the same mistake. Hopefully my oversight will make them aware of this in advance, prevent surprise, and help give a clearer expected price - - at least for European buyers. Currently, I have seen the SM4K available from EU retailers for 389 - 405 euros, or roughly $475, this may change.
I live in France and I had the same $urprise as you :(... I bought the printer + 2 bottles of resin: the shipping cost was 100 dollars (50 for the printer and 50 for the resin), and when the printer arrived I had to pay 100 euros in taxes. So in the end, the printer cost me 475 euros :/ .
It is my first 3D printer and I think it would have been better (for the price) to buy a anycubic or an elegoo. However, the quality and the tiny details are amazing, despite the price, I'm happy with the printer :)
I put some silicon lubricant on the fep, and actually works really well, so far, no sticking problems in the vat.
Thank you for sharing the tips to solve the problem of the black tape and the gap between the screen and the floor of the vat, I'm gonna change that right now!
This was a really good review, keep it up man!
Whenever something online doesn't include tax then you'll have to pay for the border fees.
It's so annoying :(
I'm not a person who is reading a forums or comment anything. I've ordered my Mighty Printer 2nd of November 2020. First e-mail which I get from them was that; printer will be avalible mid december 2020. On the order summary I have black and white information as printer price, shipment price and ant the tax price which is 0.0$. Today is 27/01/2021 The tax rules are changed in the UK, they printer itself its on its way, and is being shiped by a company which is totaly different than the one on the order summary. There is comming three boxes which one of them is probably resin, so 3x50GBP extra cost, I assume. So I send them an email describing all situation. Why should I paid the tax which is result of their delays??. As their response I got very unpleasnt email telling me that If I want to refund printer it must be unused, I would be double charge for shipment including all taxes + their extra deductions. In Conclusion think twice before you order it, be prepare for one of the worst customer services you will be deal with :(
I hope you didn’t pay it. It’s unenforceable, it’s Fed-Ex chancing their arm. Tell them to get stuffed and there’s nothing they can do about it.
I subscribed just because of your comedic reactions
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoy it!
Huh, really?
I did notice the smell quite a lot on this one. How ventilated is the room you are using Editto2.0?
>>> Here are 2 kits that fix the bending of the Z and Y axis of the Sonic Mini.
Y-AXIS
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/reinforced-build-plate-support-for-phrozen-sonic-mini-mini-4k
Z.AXIS
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/z-axis-reinforcement-square-for-phrozen-sonic-mini-mini-4k