When the guy doing lift install instruction starts off talking about the importance of the proper concrete type and thickness, thats when I feel I can trust it. Well done!
Good video showing the steps and why they are important, only negative I see is the use of Teflon tape on flare and o-ring fittings which is not only not necessary, but also can have negative effects.
I put in a Titan 9000# lift myself, and used epoxy from Menards. It was $13.00 a tube and it was superb. It is as serious an epoxy as that which Ian is using. I also didn't care for the cheap anchors that came with the lift, so I went to Fastenal and bought 10" anchor bolts, (real good ones and I have a thick floor). I have a 2003 1500hd 4 door 4x4 Silverado, and it lifts it great, never slows going up, and I put a level on the towers to see if it moved with the truck on it. NOPE. She's solid and unwavering, even with the truck on it. If you are looking at buying a lift, I would say one thing. Look at how big around the swing arm bolts are. The Titan I bought has massive ones. Whichever brand you buy, make sure they are the big ones.
Yeah man I’ve built a lot of cars with hydraulics and we never use tape , they are made to not leak but I know a guy that always uses black Teflon tape on his a just in case kind of guy.
I do a lot of footer work and would recommend using Hilti HY200 epoxy. When dealing with footers and embedded bolts HY200 is the only epoxy engineers will approve with embedments in existing concrete.
That's what we used for our vessel mezzanines footings and anchors.. He should have cleaned out the concrete dust in the holes before epoxy and not drill all the way through the concrete.
As a Millwright for 22 years like everyone else said you never use teflon tape with hydraulics. Jic fittings do not seal on the threads. You use oring boss fittings instead of teflon tape on hydraulics where you would need thread sealing. The oring does the seal.
I was only 8 minutes into this clip when I clearly see this is a EXCEPTIONAL installation clip, although I already have a installed lift in the home we bought, IF I was to install another I would use this as a go by!! GREAT tip about the epoxy!!
You do not use Teflon tape on fittings where the seal is not established by the threads such as MPT or National Pipe Thread. Typically the hose fittings used on hydraulic systems are JIC. The seal is established on the conical face of the male and female fittings. If you use Teflon tape or pipe dope it is very easy for this material to obstruct the sealing face which can cause a leak. Worse if a piece of tape or pipe dope breaks off it will enter the hydraulic system and clog the tiny orifices in valves, regulators, reliefs and counterbalance.
I use a nylog, it's a thick refrigerant oil comes in a small bottle and less than a drop with do. By lubricating the threads and flare surface you prevent galling the metal surfaces. I lightly tighten and loosen the connection a couple times to get the surfaces to mirror each other and then tighten to spec. I deal with pressures in the 350 range and this works for me.
I used to work for a company who sell lift I alone installed 2 9k lift took me 3 hours to install pretty easy installation if you know what your doing my personal favorite lift is the Mohawk lift easy and no over head
did one side of the install with the epoxy witch allowed the thunder studs to slip and it came way up so I backed off the nuts and drove them back down, I, 'll wait till tomorrow and see if they will torque, did the second side without epoxy and they torqued perfectly.
Very nice, detailed, and professional installation video! I'm considering purchasing one of these lifts and I found this video extremely helpful. Great job and thank you.
you don't use Teflon tape on JIC flare fitting or o-ring type fittings! you only use Teflon tape or plumbers pipe dope for that matter is on pipe threads aka npt
Very informative with exception to one thing. You absolutely never ever use Teflon tape on hydraulic fittings. They are tapered to tighten into each other to keep from leaking and Teflon helps things to slip and stay loose. Ask any hydraulics expert and he will tell you the number 1 failure of hydraulic systems and pumps is Teflon tape working it's way out of fittings and getting into the pumps and valves.
Thanks i just took over a shop that bought a used gl9 golf lift i need to install next week. The 2 front holes don't look like I'll be able to drill with the posts in place, should be fun
I work on hydraulic systems frequently. I have never used Teflon tape or anything at all. I have encountered it in connections before though, put there by someone who does not know what he is doing. Using Teflon tape could cause a leak if any of it gets on a sealing surface. I can not recall ever seeing a hydraulic connection that does require any sort of tape or related. Lots of comments below with same info and other important info to consider.
BiddieTube will teflon tape is already used my some manufacturers of lifts but special seal is good first degrease ,clean the fittings then use the hydraulic liquid seal but it takes time to dry...
Thanks for the informative video. Will soon have a lift (minimum 10,000 lb.) in the pole barn, but have yet to pour the floor. Looks like 8" will be more than enough...was going to go with 6" where the posts will stand, but what's 2 more inches of concrete gonna hurt?? Cheap insurance.
Keep in mind these lifts....once installed belong to the building and become part of the property owner's assets so if you rent you're out of luck reclaiming.
FlatRateUS very easy to remove once installed. If they had drilled the anchors all the way through to dirt they could then just hit the anchors into dirt, remove cables, lower crossbeam, remove arms, lower columns and haul away.
There are so many experts in these comments, it's a wonder hyper drive, flying cars, and zipper operating robots for when I take a piss haven't been invented yet, we clearly have a plethora of geniuses on this video alone.
I've seen folks posting links to a very similar looking lift failing at 15,000 lbs of loading and to that I say, "You don't say." Titan rates this lift to 9,000 lbs and it's not a certified machine, which means you need to take the 9k rating to heart. Don't exceed the 9k capacity of this lift and you'll be fine. If you want a machine with a 50% safety factory, aka an ALI certified lift, that's no problem. We carry them and they're more money of course. All the ALI 2 post lifts on our site are labeled as such if that is what anyone is looking to buy. I hope this helps. Thanks guys.
That's not what he meant at all.. The lift is fine as long as you use it correctly and don't overload it. If you put 15,000lbs on a 9000lb lift, you should expect trouble..
Might want to check one of your concrete anchors didn't grab, it pulled out way to far as you tightened it. Never use any tape on JIC fittings, they use a 37* taper to seal, the tape will strip the straight threads looks like they are likely 3/8" I.D JIC fitting. If the opposite end of the JIC fitting is pipe thread (taper thread) Then you must uses some sort of PFTE or telfon tape sealant. .. 13 years in the 6000psi air business. Only taper threads use sealant. BSP, ORB, JIC do not use tape, they use orings (ORB), bonded washers (BSP), and ,metal to ,metal taper (JIC).
"they" aren't doing any of the work, a factory does that in China, removing weld splatter before paint wasn't included in the deal the factory gave them.
Kind of skipped all the details on the most important step - shimming and leveling the lift on imperfect floors... what kind of shims? do you use grout? etc...
Hi there Ive made video on my car lift installation and review and its quiet handy as my model is 2 post H base and only needs 4 inch concrete. Check it out as it might be quiet helpful. its a single phase lift, but also comes in 3 phase model.
If you review installation procedures from Simpson, Hilti and others they note you should only drill 1/2" deeper than the depth required for the hole. You run the risk of blowing out the bottom of the hole if you drill all the way through it. If you blow it out you run the risk of the expansion anchor not expanding correctly and the particular section of concrete being significantly weakened. Besides information and videos from manufacturers my certified structural engineer coached me quite a bit on situations he's seen. This could be a pain and dangerous on these installations. Regardless of what your lift requires the torque should be set per the expansion anchor's manufacturer's specification. Doesn't hurt to use epoxy to assist with anchoring. But your mixing of the product on a piece of cardboard goes against what most manufacturers recommend. The epoxies have a blending nozzle. You're supposed to drive through the blending nozzle until the color of the epoxy blend is of sufficient color. By squeezing out the amount you did you can't ensure the epoxy was mixed correctly. I manufacture and install storm shelters and safe rooms. Following manufacturer's specifications is absolutely required in my business and I'm assuming for yours as well. I, like you, use epoxy although my structural engineer notes it's a waste. When this video was made the box stores didn't carry good epoxy. Now you can buy Simpson, Hilti and Read Head epoxy products from HD and Loews.
Excellent installation video. I feel confident that I can install this 2 post lift in my workshop after watching the video. The only thing I would want to see in the video is the use of proper PPE like dust mask, safety glasses, hearing protection. I know that isn’t affecting the installation, it’s just worth noting. Again great video, thanks
Great video Thanks for sharing it .A lot of people think they are experts eh.Too many negative comments .I don't mind someone pointing something out I might have done wrong ,but be nice people. Couple questions I had are most of these lifts 220 electrical hook up and do they require any air to operate. Thanks again
Pretty much all 2 post lifts are 220V, but I have some that can be special ordered with a 110V power unit at little to zero extra cost. Air? No sir. You commonly see air operated safety locks on scissor and 4 post lifts, but never 2 post. Hope this helps and thanks for your adult comments.
@@RedlineStands Thanks for getting back to me ,I saw you demonstrate a Titan scissor lift, I'm opening a small body shop and these would be great ,my son wants to do oil coats tires ext .I like the fact I could move it to my bay when needed.Would the scizzor lift be adequate for oil coating ,I'm renting garage and really don't want to install a 2 post hoist I would have to leave behind when I get a permanent location.There has been negative comments on these but I was impressed with its portability. I would appreciate your opinion on them .Thanks very much . Dale ( Are they more for the home garage user )
Correct. Customers are welcome to locate their lift in their shop wherever they want depending on the dimensions of their shop and the length of whatever car they plan to lift. With that said, I will tell you that the longest thing you'd ever lift is 22 ft, so I recommend spacing the lift off the wall at least 11 feet, but that's just my preference.
Man you did a nice job on there I went out and got one too I did everything you said it look nice I put the car on it either the car up the car went through the ceiling and the roof you forgot to tell me I need a roof taller than 6-feet
The one thing I needed to see is how the lock release cable routes on an SP09. There are little sheaves on posts, but there are no sheaves in my kit for the shafts on top for the cable to come up over and down the other side. Does the lock release cable just run over the shafts on top with no sheaves?
+agostino0726 I thought he should have been wearing safety glasses when he was drilling the anchor holes, blowing the dust out of the hole, and pounding the anchor in.
Teflon tape and hydraulic fittings are a no no. The fittings are 37 degree JIC and you don’t ever use Teflon tape. The seal is not the nut it’s the tapered fitting
My apologies but I'm going to have to decline to answer this question. It sounds like a lawsuit waiting to happen sir. You really need to pour an entire slab.
No sir, but honestly it's too easy to warrant a video. Just lay the tower down, slide the the carriage out, replace the blocks, and slide it back in. It's real easy in terms of technical difficulty, but real hard in terms of elbow grease required.
That's all customer preference. With that said, the longest vehicle you'll likely ever lift is around 22 ft long, so I always tell people to never place a lift less than 11 ft from the wall. I personally like much more space than 11 ft, but that's the minimum.
I'm placing mine at about 14ft from the front. I have a tundra that is about 19ft long and that placement leaves me about 6ft in the front and 5ft in the back
great video, many helpful ideas, but please stop using and suggesting the use of Teflon tape on flared hydraulic fittings. Teflon tape is only for use on tapered pipe thread fittings, thank you
How do you know if there is reinforcement in the concrete, considering the depth is suitable? Do we proceed if the concrete is at least the minimum recommended thickness without knowing if it's reinforced or not?
It's impossible to know this without doing destructive testing. If you proceed without knowing, you assume the risk. Assuming you do this anyway, at least do yourself a favor and stay far shy of the lift's rated capacity, only lifting lite weight vehicles.
@@RedlineStands say my recommended minimum thickness is 4” but I know the concrete has, let’s say 8” of thickness, would that sort of compensate for the absence of reinforcement?
Mine doesn't go down all the way to baseplate, maybe 4-5 inches above making it a little to high to get arms under a car. Is there an adjustment I can make? I can jump up and down on arms while someone is holding the release lever down to get it to about three inches but can't get all the way down.
after what i seen that happened to those 2 guys by using a 2 post floor lift . . . . . . nope. even-tho it was the car manufacturer's fault . . . . still nope. but still, good use of the floor plan, and using an adhesive to firmly secure the studs to the floor. alot of people do not do that, especially ones that erect scaffolds for use as bins for the distribution plants. should have shown the pressure point for over height on that wire. that is the most important part. and why not adjust the lower side to raise it, instead of doing the high side ?
So the concrete needs to be 1) at least 4" thick, 2) 4,000 PSI strength and 3) reinforced. Good but he only tests for the thickness. What about the other 2 requirements? Did I miss that being checked. Teflon tape on hydraulic connections??? He might be a nice fellow but I have doubts about his "expertise."
So, check your manual on the concrete. Different lifts call for different thicknesses and strength of the concrete. Basically, you can't test for the other two. You either pour it from day one with the proper thickness and strength, or you roll the dice and install on a pad of unknown specs. The Teflon tape has been well hashed-out at this point in the comments below. Yes, I gave bad info with that one...
What are the torque specs for the cross bar bolts and the tower extension box bolts at the top of this lift? My install manual doesn’t have them listed
There have been times when the concrete was soft enough that I couldn't get an anchor to tighten all the way to 150. Anyone who has several anchors that struggle to tighten and keep pulling through the concrete should think carefully about the integrity of their concrete before using a lift on the slab.
I do this for a living epoxy is not recommended anchor should hold on its own epoxy is last ditch effort if you cant torque one or two anchors and this is per benpak and rotary not a cheap titan if concrete wont hold anchor cut it out
Jesse Lamb first of all I've been a mechanic for 20 years I use the same lift all the time for heavy trucks and the epoxy is correct because it concrete expands from cold and the heat it will definitely fail overtime fail if not using epoxy
The short arms aren't really intended to be front or rear arms. You can configure them however you see best suited to your vehicle. As always just mind the C.O.G.
you should not mix a chemical and a mechanical anchor. if you are using adhesive you need to blowout the hole AND brush them out. depending on the manufacturers instructions this must be done multiple times.
Hey Jon, make sure the carriage is lifted up high enough the the locks are cleared to disengage. If that doesn't work, shine a light inside to check for obstruction. Is it both sides? If so, it's likely you're not raising the carriages up high enough to release. Good luck and let us know!
Dustin Gilmore thank you. I have been looking online and it appears there is a secondary lock that has to also be disengaged. Since my chain isn’t hooked up yet the secondary locks default into the locked position without tension. Will get back at it and report back.
Dustin Gilmore the lift does have a secondary lock that engages if no chain tension. My lift wasn’t assembled at all so I needed to not only pull the cable to disengage but also reach up inside the carriage and pry against the second safety mechanism to allow carriage to come down. Now that I have chain installed on cylinder that mechanism stays disengaged.
When the guy doing lift install instruction starts off talking about the importance of the proper concrete type and thickness, thats when I feel I can trust it. Well done!
Good video showing the steps and why they are important, only negative I see is the use of Teflon tape on flare and o-ring fittings which is not only not necessary, but also can have negative effects.
I put in a Titan 9000# lift myself, and used epoxy from Menards. It was $13.00 a tube and it was superb. It is as serious an epoxy as that which Ian is using. I also didn't care for the cheap anchors that came with the lift, so I went to Fastenal and bought 10" anchor bolts, (real good ones and I have a thick floor). I have a 2003 1500hd 4 door 4x4 Silverado, and it lifts it great, never slows going up, and I put a level on the towers to see if it moved with the truck on it. NOPE. She's solid and unwavering, even with the truck on it. If you are looking at buying a lift, I would say one thing. Look at how big around the swing arm bolts are. The Titan I bought has massive ones. Whichever brand you buy, make sure they are the big ones.
Yeah man I’ve built a lot of cars with hydraulics and we never use tape , they are made to not leak but I know a guy that always uses black Teflon tape on his a just in case kind of guy.
I do a lot of footer work and would recommend using Hilti HY200 epoxy. When dealing with footers and embedded bolts HY200 is the only epoxy engineers will approve with embedments in existing concrete.
That's what we used for our vessel mezzanines footings and anchors.. He should have cleaned out the concrete dust in the holes before epoxy and not drill all the way through the concrete.
Well shot and professionally narrated -- extremely informative. Thanks for posting this.
As a Millwright for 22 years like everyone else said you never use teflon tape with hydraulics. Jic fittings do not seal on the threads. You use oring boss fittings instead of teflon tape on hydraulics where you would need thread sealing. The oring does the seal.
I was only 8 minutes into this clip when I clearly see this is a EXCEPTIONAL installation clip, although I already have a installed lift in the home we bought, IF I was to install another I would use this as a go by!! GREAT tip about the epoxy!!
You do not use Teflon tape on fittings where the seal is not established by the threads such as MPT or National Pipe Thread. Typically the hose fittings used on hydraulic systems are JIC. The seal is established on the conical face of the male and female fittings. If you use Teflon tape or pipe dope it is very easy for this material to obstruct the sealing face which can cause a leak. Worse if a piece of tape or pipe dope breaks off it will enter the hydraulic system and clog the tiny orifices in valves, regulators, reliefs and counterbalance.
cant fix stupid
I use a nylog, it's a thick refrigerant oil comes in a small bottle and less than a drop with do. By lubricating the threads and flare surface you prevent galling the metal surfaces. I lightly tighten and loosen the connection a couple times to get the surfaces to mirror each other and then tighten to spec. I deal with pressures in the 350 range and this works for me.
is that 350 PSI or bar?.
Psi
ScoutD300. thats not even pilot pressure for hydraulics. mast typical system run 10 times that or more
Watching this has given me the urge to buy and install one in my garage thanks 👍👍
Thank you for taking the time to give the do's and don'ts. I liked the video and appreciate the time you spent to teach others.
Thank you for the thorough video. All the extras in the comments are also helpful. Gonna give it a shot on our new lift tomorrow. 🤞
I used to work for a company who sell lift I alone installed 2 9k lift took me 3 hours to install pretty easy installation if you know what your doing my personal favorite lift is the Mohawk lift easy and no over head
Hello Ruben, I would like to know how much would it cost to buy a lift and get it install??
Best video I've seen so far on how to do this. Thanks for posting it.
did one side of the install with the epoxy witch allowed the thunder studs to slip and it came way up so I backed off the nuts and drove them back down, I,
'll wait till tomorrow and see if they will torque, did the second side without epoxy and they torqued perfectly.
Very nice, detailed, and professional installation video! I'm considering purchasing one of these lifts and I found this video extremely helpful. Great job and thank you.
Awesome. Please consider us at www.RedlineStands.com for your purchase
Excellent video, very explanatory and accurate, that’s a professional right there people
you don't use Teflon tape on JIC flare fitting or o-ring type fittings! you only use Teflon tape or plumbers pipe dope for that matter is on pipe threads aka npt
Very informative with exception to one thing. You absolutely never ever use Teflon tape on hydraulic fittings. They are tapered to tighten into each other to keep from leaking and Teflon helps things to slip and stay loose. Ask any hydraulics expert and he will tell you the number 1 failure of hydraulic systems and pumps is Teflon tape working it's way out of fittings and getting into the pumps and valves.
Besides the use of Teflon tape good informative video
Thanks i just took over a shop that bought a used gl9 golf lift i need to install next week. The 2 front holes don't look like I'll be able to drill with the posts in place, should be fun
No PPE what so ever. LOVE IT!
Naa, don't worry about your eyes. You have 2 of them don't you?
@@kottyking that’s when men were men you won’t find any snow flakes out there!
I work on hydraulic systems frequently. I have never used Teflon tape or anything at all. I have encountered it in connections before though, put there by someone who does not know what he is doing. Using Teflon tape could cause a leak if any of it gets on a sealing surface. I can not recall ever seeing a hydraulic connection that does require any sort of tape or related. Lots of comments below with same info and other important info to consider.
BiddieTube will teflon tape is already used my some manufacturers of lifts but special seal is good first degrease ,clean the fittings then use the hydraulic liquid seal but it takes time to dry...
You can use an inexpensive Schmitt Hammer to test the psi of the concrete.
You don't need Teflon tape on any straight threads, jic fittings or o ring fittings. Only on taper threads.
Thanks for the informative video. Will soon have a lift (minimum 10,000 lb.) in the pole barn, but have yet to pour the floor. Looks like 8" will be more than enough...was going to go with 6" where the posts will stand, but what's 2 more inches of concrete gonna hurt?? Cheap insurance.
Keep in mind these lifts....once installed belong to the building and become part of the property owner's assets so if you rent you're out of luck reclaiming.
FlatRateUS very easy to remove once installed. If they had drilled the anchors all the way through to dirt they could then just hit the anchors into dirt, remove cables, lower crossbeam, remove arms, lower columns and haul away.
@@funkmunkle I just lost a court case and they kept my lifts.....isn't that wonderful?
I've an awful sense of foreboding that the concrete in my garage is not up to the job! I need to check this first!
You did a great job here.....very professional
Awesome. You make it look EZ, Thank you.
It's called spacing and plumbing the columns.
There are so many experts in these comments, it's a wonder hyper drive, flying cars, and zipper operating robots for when I take a piss haven't been invented yet, we clearly have a plethora of geniuses on this video alone.
Ikr
I know right
Genius here, tuning in.
My sentiments exactly! But it applies to all of the dimwits that make asinine remarks on so many channels.
Thank you and Well done.......I would worry that over time the shims will sink into the concrete.
Ain't seen it yet...
Oh yeah...I'm definitely buying this.
😂
Larry, go play in traffic buddy.
I've seen folks posting links to a very similar looking lift failing at 15,000 lbs of loading and to that I say, "You don't say." Titan rates this lift to 9,000 lbs and it's not a certified machine, which means you need to take the 9k rating to heart. Don't exceed the 9k capacity of this lift and you'll be fine. If you want a machine with a 50% safety factory, aka an ALI certified lift, that's no problem. We carry them and they're more money of course. All the ALI 2 post lifts on our site are labeled as such if that is what anyone is looking to buy. I hope this helps. Thanks guys.
Thanks
Ian Gilmore so this is not a good lift to use ,and the price is 1,499,00
That's not what he meant at all.. The lift is fine as long as you use it correctly and don't overload it. If you put 15,000lbs on a 9000lb lift, you should expect trouble..
lol makes me think DJ.Spikes Hostage Doesn't know how to read
Some people don’t understand what 9k lbs limit means...
Might want to check one of your concrete anchors didn't grab, it pulled out way to far as you tightened it. Never use any tape on JIC fittings, they use a 37* taper to seal, the tape will strip the straight threads looks like they are likely 3/8" I.D JIC fitting. If the opposite end of the JIC fitting is pipe thread (taper thread) Then you must uses some sort of PFTE or telfon tape sealant. .. 13 years in the 6000psi air business. Only taper threads use sealant. BSP, ORB, JIC do not use tape, they use orings (ORB), bonded washers (BSP), and ,metal to ,metal taper (JIC).
Good thing your hands were out of it at 17:02 mark when the operator decided to lift it with the "all clear".... Yeesh.
Nice and clear clip
Great video, looking to purchase and do myself soon
Thanks for sharing. I'm looking at buying a hoist in the next year. I'll be re watching this vid...
"Remove weld splatter" shouldn't you be doing that before you paint it and send it out the door
what I thought so too.
"they" aren't doing any of the work, a factory does that in China, removing weld splatter before paint wasn't included in the deal the factory gave them.
All non-direct drive lifts have both chains and cables...
great info.. can't wait to buy one of these for my future Vette.
I used to work doing this, it’s a ball busting job.
Kind of skipped all the details on the most important step - shimming and leveling the lift on imperfect floors... what kind of shims? do you use grout? etc...
You use a U-shaped shim. They typically come with any new lift.
good video , informative and simply presented. Many thanks
Hi there Ive made video on my car lift installation and review and its quiet handy as my model is 2 post H base and only needs 4 inch concrete. Check it out as it might be quiet helpful.
its a single phase lift, but also comes in 3 phase model.
I like this guys pants
very clear and informative, thank you
+john Thanks John!
Good video and very instructive. Thanks!
Greeeeze the slides!!
This was an excellent video! Thank you very much.
You don't need Teflon tape on AN or JIC fittings they don't seal on the threads
Excellent and very detailed video.
If you review installation procedures from Simpson, Hilti and others they note you should only drill 1/2" deeper than the depth required for the hole. You run the risk of blowing out the bottom of the hole if you drill all the way through it. If you blow it out you run the risk of the expansion anchor not expanding correctly and the particular section of concrete being significantly weakened. Besides information and videos from manufacturers my certified structural engineer coached me quite a bit on situations he's seen. This could be a pain and dangerous on these installations. Regardless of what your lift requires the torque should be set per the expansion anchor's manufacturer's specification. Doesn't hurt to use epoxy to assist with anchoring. But your mixing of the product on a piece of cardboard goes against what most manufacturers recommend. The epoxies have a blending nozzle. You're supposed to drive through the blending nozzle until the color of the epoxy blend is of sufficient color. By squeezing out the amount you did you can't ensure the epoxy was mixed correctly. I manufacture and install storm shelters and safe rooms. Following manufacturer's specifications is absolutely required in my business and I'm assuming for yours as well. I, like you, use epoxy although my structural engineer notes it's a waste. When this video was made the box stores didn't carry good epoxy. Now you can buy Simpson, Hilti and Read Head epoxy products from HD and Loews.
Also if you puncture the vapor barrier - all the moisture will try to rust out the anchors.
Very nice instructional video!
Excellent installation video. I feel confident that I can install this 2 post lift in my workshop after watching the video. The only thing I would want to see in the video is the use of proper PPE like dust mask, safety glasses, hearing protection. I know that isn’t affecting the installation, it’s just worth noting.
Again great video, thanks
i would weld a steel plate underneath the posts
3000 psi tensile strength concrete. Wow just wow
I would like to install a 2 post lift in the garage
And it has to be 4 inches thick
Great video Thanks for sharing it .A lot of people think they are experts eh.Too many negative comments .I don't mind someone pointing something out I might have done wrong ,but be nice people. Couple questions I had are most of these lifts 220 electrical hook up and do they require any air to operate. Thanks again
Pretty much all 2 post lifts are 220V, but I have some that can be special ordered with a 110V power unit at little to zero extra cost. Air? No sir. You commonly see air operated safety locks on scissor and 4 post lifts, but never 2 post. Hope this helps and thanks for your adult comments.
@@RedlineStands Thanks for getting back to me ,I saw you demonstrate a Titan scissor lift, I'm opening a small body shop and these would be great ,my son wants to do oil coats tires ext .I like the fact I could move it to my bay when needed.Would the scizzor lift be adequate for oil coating ,I'm renting garage and really don't want to install a 2 post hoist I would have to leave behind when I get a permanent location.There has been negative comments on these but I was impressed with its portability. I would appreciate your opinion on them .Thanks very much . Dale ( Are they more for the home garage user )
Oil coating? Please email me direct at sales@redlinestands.com or call us at 901-351-4764 ext 1. Thanks!
you don't give any distances from the garage door opening or walls>
Correct. Customers are welcome to locate their lift in their shop wherever they want depending on the dimensions of their shop and the length of whatever car they plan to lift. With that said, I will tell you that the longest thing you'd ever lift is 22 ft, so I recommend spacing the lift off the wall at least 11 feet, but that's just my preference.
Man you did a nice job on there I went out and got one too I did everything you said it look nice I put the car on it either the car up the car went through the ceiling and the roof you forgot to tell me I need a roof taller than 6-feet
what a dumb ass
craigslist watchdog69 fr 🤣🤣🤣🤣
13:42 is that Teflon tape on a o-ring boss fitting? 😳
Thanks for the video, my dad just picked one up the other day.
Hey STUPID
Larry, is this the best you bring to the table?
The one thing I needed to see is how the lock release cable routes on an SP09.
There are little sheaves on posts, but there are no sheaves in my kit for the shafts on top for the cable to come up over and down the other side. Does the lock release cable just run over the shafts on top with no sheaves?
I would have to know the make and model to try to send you a manual. If you want email me at Sales@RedLineStands.com Thank you.
Only thing I saw wrong was he used teflon tape on the hydraulic hose fittings. Don't need it...It's sealed on the flare of the fitting.
+agostino0726 I thought he should have been wearing safety glasses when he was drilling the anchor holes, blowing the dust out of the hole, and pounding the anchor in.
Teflon tape and hydraulic fittings are a no no. The fittings are 37 degree JIC and you don’t ever use Teflon tape. The seal is not the nut it’s the tapered fitting
Very well made video.
Awesome job 👌🏻
Awesome video!
well explained👌🏾
Ian speaks with the tempo and ferver of a televangelist.
And the Lord said unto Ian, "Let there be lifts!"
Ian Gilmore
Amen
The video is ABSOLUTELY NOT ABOUT his speech.
U checked the cement for depth. But what bout rebar and such?
No real way to do that without destroying the slab.
17:40 veehickle!
I do not have a concrete floor I plan on digging footers how deep do I need to go
My apologies but I'm going to have to decline to answer this question. It sounds like a lawsuit waiting to happen sir. You really need to pour an entire slab.
This guy should do a video once his transition is complete.
F you and the horse you road in on. My voice is high; I cannot help it, and you're a complete asshole.
It takes a real bit** to talk tough on a keyboard. We're in Pensacola FL. Come here and say it son.
Wonderful, video, thanks
Do you have a video on how to replace the slider blocks on a two post Bendpak lift?
No sir, but honestly it's too easy to warrant a video. Just lay the tower down, slide the the carriage out, replace the blocks, and slide it back in. It's real easy in terms of technical difficulty, but real hard in terms of elbow grease required.
GREAT Content Video
Great video. How did you determine how far to position the lift from the front and rear wall?
That's all customer preference. With that said, the longest vehicle you'll likely ever lift is around 22 ft long, so I always tell people to never place a lift less than 11 ft from the wall. I personally like much more space than 11 ft, but that's the minimum.
I'm placing mine at about 14ft from the front. I have a tundra that is about 19ft long and that placement leaves me about 6ft in the front and 5ft in the back
great video, many helpful ideas, but please stop using and suggesting the use of Teflon tape on flared hydraulic fittings. Teflon tape is only for use on tapered pipe thread fittings, thank you
How do you know if there is reinforcement in the concrete, considering the depth is suitable? Do we proceed if the concrete is at least the minimum recommended thickness without knowing if it's reinforced or not?
It's impossible to know this without doing destructive testing. If you proceed without knowing, you assume the risk. Assuming you do this anyway, at least do yourself a favor and stay far shy of the lift's rated capacity, only lifting lite weight vehicles.
@@RedlineStands say my recommended minimum thickness is 4” but I know the concrete has, let’s say 8” of thickness, would that sort of compensate for the absence of reinforcement?
I'm sorry but I cannot answer that for reasons of liability.
Mine doesn't go down all the way to baseplate, maybe 4-5 inches above making it a little to high to get arms under a car. Is there an adjustment I can make? I can jump up and down on arms while someone is holding the release lever down to get it to about three inches but can't get all the way down.
Sure. Your cables are too tight, resulting in your carriages being drawn up.
You skipped the part I came to see, the embeds
Short answer is, pay a certified professional to do it... In my country this is basis for a lawsuit
after what i seen that happened to those 2 guys by using a 2 post floor lift . . . . . . nope.
even-tho it was the car manufacturer's fault . . . . still nope.
but still, good use of the floor plan, and using an adhesive to firmly secure the studs to the floor. alot of people do not do that, especially ones that erect scaffolds for use as bins for the distribution plants.
should have shown the pressure point for over height on that wire. that is the most important part.
and why not adjust the lower side to raise it, instead of doing the high side ?
So the concrete needs to be 1) at least 4" thick, 2) 4,000 PSI strength and 3) reinforced. Good but he only tests for the thickness. What about the other 2 requirements? Did I miss that being checked. Teflon tape on hydraulic connections??? He might be a nice fellow but I have doubts about his "expertise."
So, check your manual on the concrete. Different lifts call for different thicknesses and strength of the concrete. Basically, you can't test for the other two. You either pour it from day one with the proper thickness and strength, or you roll the dice and install on a pad of unknown specs. The Teflon tape has been well hashed-out at this point in the comments below. Yes, I gave bad info with that one...
How much was this lift??? Made in China??? Is it any good brand, Titan??? Atlas better??? At least looks heavier, more steady???
+Western All Tool Equipment Co Agreed, if you want cheap products contact the guy trolling other peoples pages.
I've never seen anyone put Teflon tape on JIC fittings. Did I actually see that correctly?
Yep, you saw that correctly. It was only after we published the video that we realized what we did. Thanks for speaking up..
What are the torque specs for the cross bar bolts and the tower extension box bolts at the top of this lift? My install manual doesn’t have them listed
The only problem I see is I would have to go buy a torque wrench that goes to 150lbs...nice video.
There have been times when the concrete was soft enough that I couldn't get an anchor to tighten all the way to 150. Anyone who has several anchors that struggle to tighten and keep pulling through the concrete should think carefully about the integrity of their concrete before using a lift on the slab.
I do this for a living epoxy is not recommended anchor should hold on its own epoxy is last ditch effort if you cant torque one or two anchors and this is per benpak and rotary not a cheap titan if concrete wont hold anchor cut it out
Jesse Lamb first of all I've been a mechanic for 20 years I use the same lift all the time for heavy trucks and the epoxy is correct because it concrete expands from cold and the heat it will definitely fail overtime fail if not using epoxy
The epoxy is a added safe guard and it certainly can't hurt. You guys seem to find fault with many things in this video, totally uncalled for.
LOL, because the guy in the video doesn't do it for a living?
You mean over price Benpak or rotary....lol Titan works great
I thought the short arms went toward the front of the car. Thought it was odd that they would have to back the car in.
The short arms aren't really intended to be front or rear arms. You can configure them however you see best suited to your vehicle. As always just mind the C.O.G.
In every other asymmetric lift video they, and even you, show short arms up front.
This customer asked us to set it up this way. So we did. Typically, the bent arms go upfront.
So you don't use any shims in the final installation, only during setup?
He addresses that they used metal shims at 9:04
Hi , do you ship outside the usa? If so how much will be to ship to sultanate of Oman + 5 or 4000 kilogram lift ? How much will be the total ? Thanks
Good video, Thanks for the Upload. That sketchy wiring in the back ground though ....
We thought the same thing, but didn't want to irritate the customer. It was a sketchy location!. Thanks for the compliment though!
you should not mix a chemical and a mechanical anchor. if you are using adhesive you need to blowout the hole AND brush them out. depending on the manufacturers instructions this must be done multiple times.
Teflon and hydraulic pumps are not friends. Big no no
Trying to install my lift now but the carriage safety locks refuse to release. No mention in video. Any tricks to that?
Hey Jon, make sure the carriage is lifted up high enough the the locks are cleared to disengage. If that doesn't work, shine a light inside to check for obstruction. Is it both sides? If so, it's likely you're not raising the carriages up high enough to release. Good luck and let us know!
Dustin Gilmore thank you. I have been looking online and it appears there is a secondary lock that has to also be disengaged. Since my chain isn’t hooked up yet the secondary locks default into the locked position without tension. Will get back at it and report back.
Dustin Gilmore the lift does have a secondary lock that engages if no chain tension. My lift wasn’t assembled at all so I needed to not only pull the cable to disengage but also reach up inside the carriage and pry against the second safety mechanism to allow carriage to come down. Now that I have chain installed on cylinder that mechanism stays disengaged.
Hidráulica pump what zise is?