No question about it, Steve's course is some of the best money I've ever spent. I started with zero experience and no woodworking tools, the projects I make now are unreal to my wife.
From another woodworking channel; I use wd40 on the blade fairly frequently so wood dust and sap never gets a chance to bind to the blade. Just a tiny bit goes a long way, but wd40 obviates both cleaning the blade and wood burning.
Not sure if there’s fact you this but I have heard excessive use of simple green can loosen the carbide. Best to find an off the shel product designed for cleaning them.
Last year I bought the weekend woodworker to learn how to build a couple of patio furniture piece. Today I have a woodworking business that enabled me to quit my job and work from home ! Thank you Steve, you’re the best !!
I can't figure out why anyone would EVER dislike one of your videos. Sure, a lot of it is "beginner" or "newb" information, but that is absolutely no reason to not be pleased. Thanks for your effort and keep up the great work!
@@ro_yo_mi I doubt anyone other than Google really knows how they use the data, for me a dislike is rare and means I really dislike the video, normally I just stop watching, the ultimate compliment is commenting :-)
I used to have lots of problems with burn marks. I tried many of the suggestions n this video and was still having problems. I mostly had the problems with hard wood like red oak and seldom with pine but to just build things our of pine was out of the question. What I finally found that fixed the problem was the hight adjustment of the blade. The lower the blade the more the angle of the blade's cutting edge was going through the wood. This meant I was cutting through more wood as it was fed through. A simple adjustment of raising the blade to the angle was closer to 90 degrees solved the issue for me.
I listen to the saw and push accordingly. Making adjustments on longer pieces can be difficult when repositioning your push blocks, which is usually when I get burn marks. I've found that a handplane works very well for removing them.
Great Vid Steve! There's such a difficulty on how to DESCRIBE one's interaction with any tool (powered or otherwise). Been WW (hobby) & MW (career) for a long, long time. When working with the less experienced, I Always try to mention- Pay attention to what you SEE, HEAR, SMELL & FEEL when using whatever 'tool', because they are the clues to why you got the result you did and/or why the accident happened.
Good stuff. There’s another technique if you are working with easy to burn wood. Rip the piece a hair fat, say 1/16; then rip to final size. The final cut will fly through that trivial residue and there you go.
I am making some cutting boards for Christmas. Since I don’t have a table saw , I have one, and ended with lot of burn marks. I agree the speed is critical. But as Steve mentioned I have taken time to reposition my push stick which caused additional burn marks. Thanks Steve for your tips ! As usual , your tips are very accurate to new wood workers. !!!
Video suggestion: all about kerf! What it is, how to measure it and plan for it for different saws and blades, how to decide where it ends up, how those little laser guides don’t help at all 😆. There’s lots of info here for beginner and even intermediate woodworkers alike! I feel like a lot of your viewers would find a tip or two from such a video, even with a good bit of experience under their tool belts.
Steve, based on watching your channel on the living room TV back in the GRR-Ripper sponsorship days my wife bought be one as a Christmas present. Honestly I thought it was a gimmick, until I started using it and realized, no it's the "real deal." I soon bought a second one to use in a hand over hand method on long rips. I get glue ready cuts 90% of the time now and far less burning. Yes, tool alignment, blade sharpness, and blade cleanliness have been critical as well. But that smooth no-stop feed using the GRR-Ripper is key as well.
I just made a cutting board from Jatoba, Maple, purpleheart and mahogany. I cut perpendicular to the glued blocks and whaddayouknow, the maple burned. gotta admit though, that was the point I had to reposition my hands and left the blade spinning somewhat against it. Turns out I also need to clean my blade. Great timing on this video, thanks for the tips!
I have the Rigid jobsite saw Steve uses in the WW course. I switched to thin kerf (3/32) blades and it helped a lot. For ripping hardwoods I use a 3/32 blade with 24 teeth.
@@MikeD87916 No, I worried about that at first too. But the riving knife that came with the saw works with both 3/32 and 1/8 blades. It's about .090 thick as I recall.
As always, good tips Steve. I recently was working with oak and had no burn marks on crosscuts or ripping but when I set the blade to 45 degrees I had had significant burn marks. I could not figure it out. I checked alignment and attempted different feed rates but still had burn marks. In the end, the marks were not going to be visible on my project so I let them stay.
Hi Steve, Great content ... thanks. I have found one additional situation that can cause burning ... thin-kerf blades that are narrower than the riving knife on your saw. Dangerous condition due the binding that occurs. I avoid the temptation to cut without the riving knife and guard, and clearly mark the kerf width on the blades ... and only use those thin-kerf blades when appropriate. The thin-kerf blades were necessary for my old table saw, and will not be replaced when they finally die. Regards, R
@@RA-tp4pr - I do enjoy a comment that is correctly structured. Mr. Sawdust had a good English education, and he paid attention. I’m a self-confessed, and un-ashamed, grammar Nazi.
I just had this problem using an 80 tooth 10" Diablo with my compact SawStop. I was ripping big box pine 2x4s and the whole workshop was smoking up. The sawdust itself seemed to burn also. The cause was entirely the blade. With that many teeth on a 10" blade the resin was building up; when I switch it for a 24 tooth the problem disappeared. I think more often than not it's the resin.
I think you should add that thin kerf blades are more prone to burning. Thin blades have a tiny amount of set in the teeth so the flat of the blade is closer to the material. Thin blades also flex more and make it easier to cram the work piece between the blade and fence.
You remind me of “Phil Dunphy” from “Modern family” but instead of magic being his strong side, you have woodworking. Love your energy! long time fan, from Denmark.
I recently started as a total noob just a week ago. Bought a table saw of roughly 140$ and i noticed with the first cut i had burnmarks. The wood got kinda stuck between the sawblade and the fence. I watched your vids beforehand so i decided to ditch the fence and use a sled instead. I can tell you, i didn't expect the saw to be this good.. and all it took was a few of your tips. Btw, my blade protector (whatever you call it in english) is a bit off (like a few degrees towards the fence so I think i'll have to ditch that aswell. All in all, i really have to thanks you for making it simple yet effective.. i was scared i made a bad purchase but i can't afford 500$ machinery 🙈
Don't remove safety equipment unless you have to, *especially* the riving knife. It sounds like you need to make some adjustments to the fence and blade alignment. Read or download the manual for your saw and you can find all the adjustment screws and bolts and whatnot for your saw. There a lots of great videos on how to adjust your saw so everything is close to parallel. It'll make it safer to use and give you better results. Even the crosscut sled, which is a game changer, will work better if your blade is parallel to the miter slots. After you get it adjusted the first time you'll have a much easier time doing it in the future. A couple of inexpensive tools like machinists squares and will help make it more accurate and also faster to set up. Again, please, don't remove safety equipment, for your own safety.
@@Not_TVs_Frank the riving knife is still attached. I have other issues that are more fxcked up😂 miter slots are inaccurate (made 5mm wide runners for a sled but a perfect fit keeps getting stuck at certain points), miter gauge is too loose etc. I think i bought garbage. The manual does not contain info on alignment adjusting, not even the online manual. I am currently trying to get in contact with the manufacturer but that is also kinda difficult. Does the brand parkside ring any Bells?
Would like to see a video on the electric wiring needs and amperages for a proper shop setup. When I run my shop vac and planer I trip the breaker sometimes. I noticed in the planer book as well, you need different amps based on the cut. Do I need 220 outlet everywhere?
My most frequent reason for scorching has over the years been that last one, on a rather cheaply-made contractor saw that's hard to keep aligned. So much so that each time I move the fence, I've just gotten used to measuring from each end of the fence to the miter slot, and also ensuring the blade at the height I choose is parallel to the slot. I also use a metal yardstick against the side of the blade to extend its plane (and multiply any error it may have) out to the edges of the table, then carefully measure from that to the slot. A bit of hassle, but a better saw just isn't in my budget.
As for feed rate, one of the things that people who work with wood use, often without realizing it (or, at least not realizing it until there's a problem) is _sound_. How does the saw sound as you're feeding the wood? Does the saw even know you're there? Does the motor take a dive when you're pushing wood through? Also, how does the blade sound in the wood?
I kept having this happen on angled cuts when using a 10 inch 60T TCT blade. Vertical cuts were fine but as soon as I wanted angled cuts in 36mm of laminated ply, the dust couldn't be sucked away quick enough so caused the blade to bind and a 2KW motor to bog down and stop! Only sussed this was happening after almost ruining a work piece so swapping the blade to a 40T was one answer. You need exceptional dust collection suction for deep angled cuts otherwise 60T blades won't cope well.
Mr Ramsey, there is no such thing as common sense, but all your comments make sense, great tutorial on using a table saw, all I need to do is get a decent one. Using a cheap table saw makes all these comments even more useful. Look after you and your family. Love you your videos and they are so handy for the DIY guys.
If you need to use a push stick/block, before you start the cut, plan on how you are going to pick it up and engage it without stopping the rip. That works well for me.
I have the same saw as you do and despite my attempts to make it parallel to the blade (per the manual), my fence gets out of parallel each time I move it (it seems). I'd love to see a video on how you set up your fence. Or at least some tips in the reply. Love your videos.
I like Toool Cleaner for cleaning my blades. A 5 gal. lid flipped upside down with a blade sprayed and soaked then brushes off. I dry them then hit each tooth with 1-5 passes of a diamond plate sharpener each time I clean them. I also spray them with a dry lube, let it dry, then wipe them with a silicone impregnated cleaning rag. I have well over a dozen blades from 18 tooth to 200 tooth for varying uses and balance he blade to the job; I mostly use a 50 tooth full kerf (FTGx1-ATBx4) combination blade for most of my cuts and an 80 tooth ATB blade for use with plywood. If you’re cutting thicker or harder stock, especially ripping, go with less teeth; if you’re cross cutting or need a finer finish go with more teeth. I also like a glue-lam blade which leaves an amazing edge with a joining sled for jointer quality work from the table saw. The biggest thing is consistent speed with a feed rate that matches the blade, some blades want to cut slower while some faster, depending on the hardness of the wood. As pine is soft and full of resins it will dirty up blades quite quickly and without cleaning bog on cuts, while hard woods do this to less of an extent and more slowly they also will eventually bog a blade. Cleaning is probably the best thing to aid to blade longevity and usefulness as clean blades tend to cut better, run cooler, and stay sharper then dirty blades. Take the time and clean your blades as well as having at least a couple to get the best results, say a 24, 50 combination, and 80 tooth blades would accomplish most of my shop work. I also run some smaller blades including an 8” dado stack and a 7 1/4” ultra thin kerf blade for working with some pricier woods to reduce kerf loss, I also found a pair of 40 tooth 7 1/4” blades makes perfect fitted dados for 5mm plywood as everything else is either too tight or too loose. The table saw is the shop work horse so don’t limit its abilities by not having at least a few blades and a few jigs.
I have an old saw without a riving knife, and I don't use a splitter so some boards will bind on the blade when I get far enough into the cut. What I've learned to do when I notice the blade stalling is to shut down and push the workpiece through a second time to remove more material from the off-cut side of the kerf. Sometimes I'll also make multiple, shallower cuts. Results aren't as good as doing it in one clean pass, but it works if there are no other options. Probably should just get a splitter though.
Another tip for those starting woodworking : the edge of the wood piece might not be plane (flat enough) which makes the thickness of wood being fed to the blade varying. This will lead to the same consequences as the ones of your fence not being parallel to the blade mentionned by Steve. Always plane at least one edge of your timber before cutting. If use use raw wood with sawn marks, it is dangerous’
If you don't sand off the scorching, does it affect the quality of a glue bond? I''m a novice but have noticed the scorched areas seem much harder than the rest of the workpiece. If the wood is burnished from friction of the blade, does it absorb glue differently?
Great tips... here's one I'll bet you didn't think of: Another very uncommon source of burn marks from a table saw might be if the saw itself is on fire... in that case you should immediately stop your woodworking project and grab a dowel rod to roast some marshmallows... make some smores. Okay guys... Hey I don't know why I wrote this silly comment... just in a silly mood I guess. Thanks a bunch Steve for posting this video, it is truly helpful. BTW: My Table saw makes tiny chipped edges on plywood cuts, maybe it's the brand of plywood I'm using? Should I invest in a zero clearance throat plate? The blade looks okay I've had it for a while, but I don't a lot of woodworking with it... it's a 60 tooth Diablo blade for 10" table saw. Any ideas... and I'll bet you didn't read the second half because of my silly comment.
@@tektrixter I too drink coffee while watching RUclips, *it happens to me too. LOL... Well, as long as it's black coffee, that works the best to help dissolve the food particles and act as a rinse agent to clean between the keys. (OK... not really recommended, just trying to put a positive spin on an Ooops!) And BTW as I type this comment I realized that I'm out of coffee to watch RUclips... Need to "Reload"!!! And You know the process: "Lather, Rinse, Repeat" (your keyboard)
Too funny! On the topic of plywood tearout, though, I've had good luck covering the top and bottom of the cut line with painter's tape prior to cutting, which helps especially when cutting against the grain of the veneer. Thanks to Steve and his Weekend Woodworker course for this tip!
I made my own zero clearance plate with scrap 1/4" plywood, and it's also my throat plate for the dado. The thickness isn't quite right for my saw, but it's pretty close. If I was ambitious, I could hit the edges with the sander.
Good video. Ash, also has a nasty tendency to burn. After a while, you learn what different woods are like to work with, then just let the tool do the work.
Another source of burn marks is pushing a wood piece along the rip fence with a side of the wood that is not straight up against the rip fence. As the edge of the wood comes into contact with the rip fence the deviation from straight will cause the wood to slide left or right. The cutting edge of the blade will continue to cut, but the trailing edge will bind in the kerf and the friction will cause the burn.
a well tuned saw, with the fence set a few thousandths out on the outfeed eliminates most burning. useing the right blade and a full kerf blade will eliminate the rest.
I have an old saw ('50's) with a wimpy motor. Cheesy fence. I can't push fast without scorching, bogging and the breaker tripping. Can't push slow without scorching. Pretty simple. It is a good motor 70 plus years and still doing what it can do, but its 3/4 HP, 120VAC. It is a nice saw in that its mechanisms are really stout and it has a good cast iron top. It is heavy, steady and compact. I can't easily discard tools that still work at what they are intended for. I can keep this little old Delta for small work, but it needs a better fence. Clearly, I need a 240V, multiple HP saw.
Lol!! Okay I have a project on hold until I sharpen and clean the blade(s).... I'm looking at a set of table legs that had to get done and wondered what's up with the burn/ scorching!?. I looked. Dull, and dirty-- last project had some dusty material, still pine. Aaargh!!! Cleaning: easy! Sharpen: crosses my eyes.. 😆! Thank you Steve for motivating me, and Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!!🍗🥧!!
You know, such a stupid rookie mistake, but when I got my first circular saw, my first cut ever, it was horrible and burnt the wood. It was barely able to cut, actually. It turns out I had put the blade with the teeth facing the wrong direction. It was quite dangerous, as I almost cut a finger off.
I’ve tried various chemicals to clean dirty, sappy blades and the method that works best for me is very hot (almost scalding) water and a metal brush. Takes seconds to get the blades like new.
Never use oven cleaner on table saw blades as demonstrated by a Freud dealer because the acids in the cleaner eat away at the soldered carbide to the blade. Simple Green I find to work the best for tree resins. I have tested oven cleaner personally with massive failure to my blade.
Where do you find table saws with riving knife that raises with the blade and doesn’t go above the blades my saw is an older craftsman a good saw but have to remove knife to cut dadoes etc
I have a makita jobsite saw and find that I get burn marks on my cross sled and rip fence. Blade is .90 to the table and miter slots so not sure why also I have Freud brand new rip and crosscut blade. I find that the wood warps and bows as well some times
I reduced the amount of burn marks by cleaning my blades of glue from plywood and sap from dimensional lumber. I also wax my blades before I remount them. I also wax the surface of the table saw and the rip fence. If there are black marks behind the cutting teeth, the blade will leave "burn marks" but is actually glue or sap. Clean the blade. I have seen that with clean blades, clean and waxed surfaces I have better cuts.
In my limited experience, blade height is also a cause. Common wisdom is the blade should be just a hair higher than the thickness of the material. With thin stuff that's true. But with thicker and harder hardwood you should raise the blade as high as you ar comfortable raising it from a safety standpoint. With the blade higher, there's fewer teeth in the kerf at any given time and the path the teeth take is shorter. Imagine the blade in the kerf when the blade is low, they spend all their time in the wood and make a large arc through the wood. If the blade is high, it goes almost vertically through your material in the back and then again almost vertically in the front. Less teeth in the kerf is less friction and less burning. I think Johnathan Katz Moses did a slow Mo video regarding this...
I sent an email to a major mid-grade blade producer and asked what the recommended height is. They said the gullet should be completely clear of the wood, but not much more than 1/8" - 1/4" more than that. More than that and the angle of approach can be too steep and contribute to kickback. Lower than that and the gullet doesn't clear any dust it has in it and produces more heat.
@@mychalevenson7710 the gullet above the wood is good advice but the hight advice is false. The higher the blade the more the teeth cut downwards so less force towards the operator so less chance of kickback. A low blade means you cut with the top of the circle and therefore cutting horizontally aka towards the operator. (Rivingknife stops the wood getting lifted up at the back of the blade)
@@heimdall4148 kickback starts at the back of the blade, not the front. Direct downward force at the front of the blade means direct upward force at the rear. Kickback begins when the workpiece lifts off the rable due to pinching or twisting. Further a high blade can has more leverage and more space to accelerate the kickback launching it at faster speeds. Then there's the angle. The lower the blade, the lower the kickback. A high blade kicks toward your face. A low blade kicks toward your gut.
If it’s in your budget, try a high-end 24 tooth ripping blade (CMT, Forrest, etc). I couldn’t believe how much of a difference it makes. The only downside is it can leave a very slightly rough surface if you aren’t consistent in your feed rate, but easily sandable.
I've worked as an automotive painter for almost 40 years and the best thing I've found to remove pine sap from the cars is splash some degreaser on a rag, run it under water for a sec then squeeze it out. The 2 do not mix but work like magic ✨, separately they do not work at all, go figure 🤷
Purpleheart: I have finally vowed to stop working with it!!! I have a friend who loves it and so I have done a lot of projects with it. It NEVER makes it thru my planer without terrible tear-out, the router often leaves black marks, and it almost never makes it thru a table saw cut without scorching. I use an appropriate, clean, sharp saw blade. I finally just accepted the fact that any cut was going to scorch and I started making all cuts 1/16th inch oversized, then go back to clean off the excess from the cut...ie, twice the work on every cut.
I personally try to sand any Pine burns off before gluing, but that might be me being paranoid. Ha ha. Other species I've never had a problem with though.
What I've seen is that it can just be lack of practice/bad technique, but if you go through all these steps and still have trouble at least you'll have a better idea what it is.
Blades are sharp and sometimes cut deep. Wood just sits there like a bump on a log and takes it... Sometimes getting burned in the process. Sorry couldn’t resist.
Gosh I’ve missed your videos. If only we could find some way to make you stay home for a year, not interact with anyone and have you film daily videos for us. Oh wait.... 😉😂 And Happy Thanksgiving too!
you left out having a saw with not enough HP, If you're using hardwoods for your project you want a minimum of a 3hp saw, using an underpowered saw can actually be dangerous and cause kickback
Steve's courses are amazing, I took the weekend woodworker course as a true beginner, and am now creating some really nice projects.
No question about it, Steve's course is some of the best money I've ever spent. I started with zero experience and no woodworking tools, the projects I make now are unreal to my wife.
Dirty blade is my #1 culprit! I fill the lid of a 5gal bucket with Simple Green, soak 10-30 minutes, scrub off with nylon brush and bingo!
From another woodworking channel; I use wd40 on the blade fairly frequently so wood dust and sap never gets a chance to bind to the blade. Just a tiny bit goes a long way, but wd40 obviates both cleaning the blade and wood burning.
@@user-tm8jt2py3d right?! 🤣
Not sure if there’s fact you this but I have heard excessive use of simple green can loosen the carbide. Best to find an off the shel product designed for cleaning them.
Last year I bought the weekend woodworker to learn how to build a couple of patio furniture piece. Today I have a woodworking business that enabled me to quit my job and work from home !
Thank you Steve, you’re the best !!
I can't figure out why anyone would EVER dislike one of your videos. Sure, a lot of it is "beginner" or "newb" information, but that is absolutely no reason to not be pleased.
Thanks for your effort and keep up the great work!
A dislike doesn't mean the video was bad. Many people who down vote do so the youtube algorithm doesn't recommend more videos like it.
@@ro_yo_mi I thought that's what the "don't recommend this" was for... 🤔🤷♂️
@@ro_yo_mi I doubt anyone other than Google really knows how they use the data, for me a dislike is rare and means I really dislike the video, normally I just stop watching, the ultimate compliment is commenting :-)
It is from the others woodworking channels
I have been a woodworker for over 50 years. You hit ALL the points. I enjoy your videos as you are a honest guy.
I used to have lots of problems with burn marks. I tried many of the suggestions n this video and was still having problems. I mostly had the problems with hard wood like red oak and seldom with pine but to just build things our of pine was out of the question. What I finally found that fixed the problem was the hight adjustment of the blade. The lower the blade the more the angle of the blade's cutting edge was going through the wood. This meant I was cutting through more wood as it was fed through. A simple adjustment of raising the blade to the angle was closer to 90 degrees solved the issue for me.
I listen to the saw and push accordingly. Making adjustments on longer pieces can be difficult when repositioning your push blocks, which is usually when I get burn marks. I've found that a handplane works very well for removing them.
@@TheTacticalBarrage When your blade is not happy, it starts to cry.
Great Vid Steve! There's such a difficulty on how to DESCRIBE one's interaction with any tool (powered or otherwise). Been WW (hobby) & MW (career) for a long, long time. When working with the less experienced, I Always try to mention- Pay attention to what you SEE, HEAR, SMELL & FEEL when using whatever 'tool', because they are the clues to why you got the result you did and/or why the accident happened.
Good stuff. There’s another technique if you are working with easy to burn wood. Rip the piece a hair fat, say 1/16; then rip to final size. The final cut will fly through that trivial residue and there you go.
That's what I do. It also help with tear out
That's what I did on the cherry for my cabinets. But I ran them through the thickness planer with the stops in place.
I am making some cutting boards for Christmas. Since I don’t have a table saw , I have one, and ended with lot of burn marks. I agree the speed is critical. But as Steve mentioned I have taken time to reposition my push stick which caused additional burn marks. Thanks Steve for your tips ! As usual , your tips are very accurate to new wood workers. !!!
Great tips even for experienced wood workers. Blade maintenance can creep up on you, so basic tips to watch out for and easy remedies
Video suggestion: all about kerf! What it is, how to measure it and plan for it for different saws and blades, how to decide where it ends up, how those little laser guides don’t help at all 😆. There’s lots of info here for beginner and even intermediate woodworkers alike! I feel like a lot of your viewers would find a tip or two from such a video, even with a good bit of experience under their tool belts.
I like this idea allot
Steve, based on watching your channel on the living room TV back in the GRR-Ripper sponsorship days my wife bought be one as a Christmas present. Honestly I thought it was a gimmick, until I started using it and realized, no it's the "real deal." I soon bought a second one to use in a hand over hand method on long rips. I get glue ready cuts 90% of the time now and far less burning. Yes, tool alignment, blade sharpness, and blade cleanliness have been critical as well. But that smooth no-stop feed using the GRR-Ripper is key as well.
I just made a cutting board from Jatoba, Maple, purpleheart and mahogany. I cut perpendicular to the glued blocks and whaddayouknow, the maple burned. gotta admit though, that was the point I had to reposition my hands and left the blade spinning somewhat against it. Turns out I also need to clean my blade. Great timing on this video, thanks for the tips!
I have the Rigid jobsite saw Steve uses in the WW course. I switched to thin kerf (3/32) blades and it helped a lot. For ripping hardwoods I use a 3/32 blade with 24 teeth.
When you switched to a thin kerf blade, did you have an issue with the riving knife getting stuck?
@@MikeD87916 No, I worried about that at first too. But the riving knife that came with the saw works with both 3/32 and 1/8 blades. It's about .090 thick as I recall.
Thanks for the tips! A good reminder to keep that blade sharp and use appropriate feeding tools.
As always, good tips Steve. I recently was working with oak and had no burn marks on crosscuts or ripping but when I set the blade to 45 degrees I had had significant burn marks. I could not figure it out. I checked alignment and attempted different feed rates but still had burn marks. In the end, the marks were not going to be visible on my project so I let them stay.
Great tips Steve! I always end up shuffling my hands only long cuts. I like the tip to use two push blocks. Very well explained.
Hi Steve,
Great content ... thanks.
I have found one additional situation that can cause burning ... thin-kerf blades that are narrower than the riving knife on your saw. Dangerous condition due the binding that occurs.
I avoid the temptation to cut without the riving knife and guard, and clearly mark the kerf width on the blades ... and only use those thin-kerf blades when appropriate.
The thin-kerf blades were necessary for my old table saw, and will not be replaced when they finally die.
Regards,
R
Bro this is a youtube comment, not a cover letter😂😂
@@RA-tp4pr - I do enjoy a comment that is correctly structured. Mr. Sawdust had a good English education, and he paid attention. I’m a self-confessed, and un-ashamed, grammar Nazi.
Thanks for that tip!
Love that you call it scorching, sounds better. Have a great week.
That burning is an ancient Japanese wood treatment called "Shou oopsie ban" 😏😁
I just had this problem using an 80 tooth 10" Diablo with my compact SawStop. I was ripping big box pine 2x4s and the whole workshop was smoking up. The sawdust itself seemed to burn also. The cause was entirely the blade. With that many teeth on a 10" blade the resin was building up; when I switch it for a 24 tooth the problem disappeared. I think more often than not it's the resin.
i just push the piece super slow so the burn is consistent. then my shop would smell like a campfire.
I think you should add that thin kerf blades are more prone to burning. Thin blades have a tiny amount of set in the teeth so the flat of the blade is closer to the material. Thin blades also flex more and make it easier to cram the work piece between the blade and fence.
You remind me of “Phil Dunphy” from “Modern family” but instead of magic being his strong side, you have woodworking.
Love your energy! long time fan, from Denmark.
Great tips, Steve! 😃
Thanks a lot!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I recently started as a total noob just a week ago. Bought a table saw of roughly 140$ and i noticed with the first cut i had burnmarks. The wood got kinda stuck between the sawblade and the fence. I watched your vids beforehand so i decided to ditch the fence and use a sled instead. I can tell you, i didn't expect the saw to be this good.. and all it took was a few of your tips.
Btw, my blade protector (whatever you call it in english) is a bit off (like a few degrees towards the fence so I think i'll have to ditch that aswell. All in all, i really have to thanks you for making it simple yet effective.. i was scared i made a bad purchase but i can't afford 500$ machinery 🙈
Don't remove safety equipment unless you have to, *especially* the riving knife. It sounds like you need to make some adjustments to the fence and blade alignment. Read or download the manual for your saw and you can find all the adjustment screws and bolts and whatnot for your saw. There a lots of great videos on how to adjust your saw so everything is close to parallel. It'll make it safer to use and give you better results. Even the crosscut sled, which is a game changer, will work better if your blade is parallel to the miter slots. After you get it adjusted the first time you'll have a much easier time doing it in the future. A couple of inexpensive tools like machinists squares and will help make it more accurate and also faster to set up. Again, please, don't remove safety equipment, for your own safety.
@@Not_TVs_Frank the riving knife is still attached. I have other issues that are more fxcked up😂 miter slots are inaccurate (made 5mm wide runners for a sled but a perfect fit keeps getting stuck at certain points), miter gauge is too loose etc. I think i bought garbage.
The manual does not contain info on alignment adjusting, not even the online manual. I am currently trying to get in contact with the manufacturer but that is also kinda difficult. Does the brand parkside ring any Bells?
Would like to see a video on the electric wiring needs and amperages for a proper shop setup. When I run my shop vac and planer I trip the breaker sometimes. I noticed in the planer book as well, you need different amps based on the cut. Do I need 220 outlet everywhere?
My most frequent reason for scorching has over the years been that last one, on a rather cheaply-made contractor saw that's hard to keep aligned. So much so that each time I move the fence, I've just gotten used to measuring from each end of the fence to the miter slot, and also ensuring the blade at the height I choose is parallel to the slot. I also use a metal yardstick against the side of the blade to extend its plane (and multiply any error it may have) out to the edges of the table, then carefully measure from that to the slot. A bit of hassle, but a better saw just isn't in my budget.
I feel you I have a makita jobsite and the rip fence on it sucks!
Yay!! A new video!! I enjoy your interviews, but I do love these
As for feed rate, one of the things that people who work with wood use, often without realizing it (or, at least not realizing it until there's a problem) is _sound_. How does the saw sound as you're feeding the wood? Does the saw even know you're there? Does the motor take a dive when you're pushing wood through? Also, how does the blade sound in the wood?
I kept having this happen on angled cuts when using a 10 inch 60T TCT blade. Vertical cuts were fine but as soon as I wanted angled cuts in 36mm of laminated ply, the dust couldn't be sucked away quick enough so caused the blade to bind and a 2KW motor to bog down and stop! Only sussed this was happening after almost ruining a work piece so swapping the blade to a 40T was one answer. You need exceptional dust collection suction for deep angled cuts otherwise 60T blades won't cope well.
Mr Ramsey, there is no such thing as common sense, but all your comments make sense, great tutorial on using a table saw, all I need to do is get a decent one. Using a cheap table saw makes all these comments even more useful. Look after you and your family. Love you your videos and they are so handy for the DIY guys.
If you need to use a push stick/block, before you start the cut, plan on how you are going to pick it up and engage it without stopping the rip. That works well for me.
I have the same saw as you do and despite my attempts to make it parallel to the blade (per the manual), my fence gets out of parallel each time I move it (it seems). I'd love to see a video on how you set up your fence. Or at least some tips in the reply. Love your videos.
I like Toool Cleaner for cleaning my blades. A 5 gal. lid flipped upside down with a blade sprayed and soaked then brushes off. I dry them then hit each tooth with 1-5 passes of a diamond plate sharpener each time I clean them. I also spray them with a dry lube, let it dry, then wipe them with a silicone impregnated cleaning rag. I have well over a dozen blades from 18 tooth to 200 tooth for varying uses and balance he blade to the job; I mostly use a 50 tooth full kerf (FTGx1-ATBx4) combination blade for most of my cuts and an 80 tooth ATB blade for use with plywood. If you’re cutting thicker or harder stock, especially ripping, go with less teeth; if you’re cross cutting or need a finer finish go with more teeth. I also like a glue-lam blade which leaves an amazing edge with a joining sled for jointer quality work from the table saw.
The biggest thing is consistent speed with a feed rate that matches the blade, some blades want to cut slower while some faster, depending on the hardness of the wood. As pine is soft and full of resins it will dirty up blades quite quickly and without cleaning bog on cuts, while hard woods do this to less of an extent and more slowly they also will eventually bog a blade. Cleaning is probably the best thing to aid to blade longevity and usefulness as clean blades tend to cut better, run cooler, and stay sharper then dirty blades.
Take the time and clean your blades as well as having at least a couple to get the best results, say a 24, 50 combination, and 80 tooth blades would accomplish most of my shop work. I also run some smaller blades including an 8” dado stack and a 7 1/4” ultra thin kerf blade for working with some pricier woods to reduce kerf loss, I also found a pair of 40 tooth 7 1/4” blades makes perfect fitted dados for 5mm plywood as everything else is either too tight or too loose.
The table saw is the shop work horse so don’t limit its abilities by not having at least a few blades and a few jigs.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us!
I have an old saw without a riving knife, and I don't use a splitter so some boards will bind on the blade when I get far enough into the cut. What I've learned to do when I notice the blade stalling is to shut down and push the workpiece through a second time to remove more material from the off-cut side of the kerf. Sometimes I'll also make multiple, shallower cuts. Results aren't as good as doing it in one clean pass, but it works if there are no other options.
Probably should just get a splitter though.
Simple Green is one of the best I have found to clean my blades.
happy thanksgiving steve!
edit: I hate my old crappy ryobi table saw..it scares me lol
Another tip for those starting woodworking : the edge of the wood piece might not be plane (flat enough) which makes the thickness of wood being fed to the blade varying. This will lead to the same consequences as the ones of your fence not being parallel to the blade mentionned by Steve. Always plane at least one edge of your timber before cutting. If use use raw wood with sawn marks, it is dangerous’
You can plane it by opening out the fence a bit for one side, then cutting to proper width on the other side.
If you don't sand off the scorching, does it affect the quality of a glue bond? I''m a novice but have noticed the scorched areas seem much harder than the rest of the workpiece. If the wood is burnished from friction of the blade, does it absorb glue differently?
Sometimes it can help to that run the first pass a 16th wide then run it through again
Good info. Thanks. Or using a crosscut blade for rip cutting, or vise versa. And trying to cut too thick a piece in a single pass.
LA’s Totally Awesome is fantastic for cleaning saw blades. I get it at Dollar Tree, in the US.
Excellent tips as always. Much appreciated. Thank you!
Steve always with the great tips! Thanks and yall have a great Thanksgiving tomorrow! 💕🦃🍗🥧
Great information. I always enjoy your posts.
AMANA BLU 50T COMBO BEST BLADE IVE EVER USED, I MEAN SUPER CLEAN BETTER THAN FACTORY NO SAND CUTS SAVES A SHĪT TON OF TIME
Thanks For The Info!!!! 👍😎
Great tips... here's one I'll bet you didn't think of: Another very uncommon source of burn marks from a table saw might be if the saw itself is on fire... in that case you should immediately stop your woodworking project and grab a dowel rod to roast some marshmallows... make some smores. Okay guys... Hey I don't know why I wrote this silly comment... just in a silly mood I guess.
Thanks a bunch Steve for posting this video, it is truly helpful. BTW: My Table saw makes tiny chipped edges on plywood cuts, maybe it's the brand of plywood I'm using? Should I invest in a zero clearance throat plate? The blade looks okay I've had it for a while, but I don't a lot of woodworking with it... it's a 60 tooth Diablo blade for 10" table saw. Any ideas... and I'll bet you didn't read the second half because of my silly comment.
Great, now I've got to clean coffee from my keyboard. Thanks for the early morning laugh.
@@tektrixter I too drink coffee while watching RUclips, *it happens to me too. LOL... Well, as long as it's black coffee, that works the best to help dissolve the food particles and act as a rinse agent to clean between the keys. (OK... not really recommended, just trying to put a positive spin on an Ooops!) And BTW as I type this comment I realized that I'm out of coffee to watch RUclips... Need to "Reload"!!! And You know the process: "Lather, Rinse, Repeat" (your keyboard)
Too funny! On the topic of plywood tearout, though, I've had good luck covering the top and bottom of the cut line with painter's tape prior to cutting, which helps especially when cutting against the grain of the veneer. Thanks to Steve and his Weekend Woodworker course for this tip!
@@BrendanCassidy Yeah I thought about that idea... have to give it a try. BTW: I've taken all of Steve's online courses as well
I made my own zero clearance plate with scrap 1/4" plywood, and it's also my throat plate for the dado. The thickness isn't quite right for my saw, but it's pretty close. If I was ambitious, I could hit the edges with the sander.
Good video. Ash, also has a nasty tendency to burn. After a while, you learn what different woods are like to work with, then just let the tool do the work.
Sometimes I wonder what goes thru people's minds when they thumbs-down a video like this.
Another source of burn marks is pushing a wood piece along the rip fence with a side of the wood that is not straight up against the rip fence. As the edge of the wood comes into contact with the rip fence the deviation from straight will cause the wood to slide left or right. The cutting edge of the blade will continue to cut, but the trailing edge will bind in the kerf and the friction will cause the burn.
I've experienced burning often when cutting hickory, a very hard wood. Also, feed too fast can cause a circuit breaker to flip.
a well tuned saw, with the fence set a few thousandths out on the outfeed eliminates most burning. useing the right blade and a full kerf blade will eliminate the rest.
I have an old saw ('50's) with a wimpy motor. Cheesy fence. I can't push fast without scorching, bogging and the breaker tripping. Can't push slow without scorching. Pretty simple. It is a good motor 70 plus years and still doing what it can do, but its 3/4 HP, 120VAC. It is a nice saw in that its mechanisms are really stout and it has a good cast iron top. It is heavy, steady and compact. I can't easily discard tools that still work at what they are intended for. I can keep this little old Delta for small work, but it needs a better fence.
Clearly, I need a 240V, multiple HP saw.
come learn to be better, thank you for sharing
Happy Thanksgiving! Thanks for the video! I miss these
Lol!! Okay I have a project on hold until I sharpen and clean the blade(s).... I'm looking at a set of table legs that had to get done and wondered what's up with the burn/ scorching!?. I looked. Dull, and dirty-- last project had some dusty material, still pine.
Aaargh!!! Cleaning: easy! Sharpen: crosses my eyes.. 😆!
Thank you Steve for motivating me, and Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!!🍗🥧!!
You know, such a stupid rookie mistake, but when I got my first circular saw, my first cut ever, it was horrible and burnt the wood. It was barely able to cut, actually. It turns out I had put the blade with the teeth facing the wrong direction. It was quite dangerous, as I almost cut a finger off.
I’ve tried various chemicals to clean dirty, sappy blades and the method that works best for me is very hot (almost scalding) water and a metal brush. Takes seconds to get the blades like new.
Thank you
Cut the part 1/32 wider than needed then do a final pass at the right size
Never use oven cleaner on table saw blades as demonstrated by a Freud dealer because the acids in the cleaner eat away at the soldered carbide to the blade. Simple Green I find to work the best for tree resins. I have tested oven cleaner personally with massive failure to my blade.
Very new just got an older delta table saw. Need paint to restore it. Anyone have idea where i can get paint. New to your channel love it.
Where do you find table saws with riving knife that raises with the blade and doesn’t go above the blades my saw is an older craftsman a good saw but have to remove knife to cut dadoes etc
What direction do. Install my table saw blade
I have a makita jobsite saw and find that I get burn marks on my cross sled and rip fence. Blade is .90 to the table and miter slots so not sure why also I have Freud brand new rip and crosscut blade. I find that the wood warps and bows as well some times
Be sure to check the electric integrity. Long power cords drop voltage
Cherry seems to burn if I put my hand on it...Sometimes even if I look at it wrong.
Great job 👍
I reduced the amount of burn marks by cleaning my blades of glue from plywood and sap from dimensional lumber. I also wax my blades before I remount them. I also wax the surface of the table saw and the rip fence. If there are black marks behind the cutting teeth, the blade will leave "burn marks" but is actually glue or sap. Clean the blade. I have seen that with clean blades, clean and waxed surfaces I have better cuts.
Where did you get the guide at?
I put in a new blade and got faster cuts with much less if not any scorching. Speed of cut FTW!👍🏻
that yellow safety device you show, pushing small wood through - what's that called where do I get one - push block with variable heights
GRR-Ripper. At Amazon.
In my limited experience, blade height is also a cause. Common wisdom is the blade should be just a hair higher than the thickness of the material. With thin stuff that's true. But with thicker and harder hardwood you should raise the blade as high as you ar comfortable raising it from a safety standpoint. With the blade higher, there's fewer teeth in the kerf at any given time and the path the teeth take is shorter.
Imagine the blade in the kerf when the blade is low, they spend all their time in the wood and make a large arc through the wood. If the blade is high, it goes almost vertically through your material in the back and then again almost vertically in the front.
Less teeth in the kerf is less friction and less burning.
I think Johnathan Katz Moses did a slow Mo video regarding this...
This is what I did to finally solve my issues with burn marks.
True. For ripcut blade at max height for crosscut blade low. (Also 2 different type of blades officially)
I sent an email to a major mid-grade blade producer and asked what the recommended height is. They said the gullet should be completely clear of the wood, but not much more than 1/8" - 1/4" more than that. More than that and the angle of approach can be too steep and contribute to kickback. Lower than that and the gullet doesn't clear any dust it has in it and produces more heat.
@@mychalevenson7710 the gullet above the wood is good advice but the hight advice is false. The higher the blade the more the teeth cut downwards so less force towards the operator so less chance of kickback. A low blade means you cut with the top of the circle and therefore cutting horizontally aka towards the operator. (Rivingknife stops the wood getting lifted up at the back of the blade)
@@heimdall4148 kickback starts at the back of the blade, not the front. Direct downward force at the front of the blade means direct upward force at the rear. Kickback begins when the workpiece lifts off the rable due to pinching or twisting. Further a high blade can has more leverage and more space to accelerate the kickback launching it at faster speeds. Then there's the angle. The lower the blade, the lower the kickback. A high blade kicks toward your face. A low blade kicks toward your gut.
I was going to get just 1 of those pushblocks but, after watching the video, using 2 is even safer.
I literally had this happen with some walnut earlier today and didn't know why. I'm guessing saw blade with too many teeth
If it’s in your budget, try a high-end 24 tooth ripping blade (CMT, Forrest, etc). I couldn’t believe how much of a difference it makes. The only downside is it can leave a very slightly rough surface if you aren’t consistent in your feed rate, but easily sandable.
Hej Steve, I've tried downloading your toollist several times now, but I keep landing on a 404-page
I've worked as an automotive painter for almost 40 years and the best thing I've found to remove pine sap from the cars is splash some degreaser on a rag, run it under water for a sec then squeeze it out. The 2 do not mix but work like magic ✨, separately they do not work at all, go figure 🤷
OK
Purpleheart: I have finally vowed to stop working with it!!! I have a friend who loves it and so I have done a lot of projects with it. It NEVER makes it thru my planer without terrible tear-out, the router often leaves black marks, and it almost never makes it thru a table saw cut without scorching. I use an appropriate, clean, sharp saw blade. I finally just accepted the fact that any cut was going to scorch and I started making all cuts 1/16th inch oversized, then go back to clean off the excess from the cut...ie, twice the work on every cut.
or simply embrace your burn marks, use it as a pattern for your next project to make it exciting looking 😁
do microjigs EVER go on sale?? lol i want one so baddddd
Once in a while on Amazon. Usually they go for $59, but I got mine on sale once for $51.98.
Hi Steve, does burn marks from a table saw will not affect the glue bond?
I personally try to sand any Pine burns off before gluing, but that might be me being paranoid. Ha ha. Other species I've never had a problem with though.
@@Toyotajunkie thanks, I will try it next time.
What I've seen is that it can just be lack of practice/bad technique, but if you go through all these steps and still have trouble at least you'll have a better idea what it is.
Oh man I wish you had of covered this 20 years ago. :p
Love to hear yourself talk. Could have been 10 second vid.
Do you ever really stop feeling overwhelmed by wood? There's too much to explore
because it got burned?
Blades are sharp and sometimes cut deep. Wood just sits there like a bump on a log and takes it... Sometimes getting burned in the process. Sorry couldn’t resist.
Gosh I’ve missed your videos. If only we could find some way to make you stay home for a year, not interact with anyone and have you film daily videos for us. Oh wait.... 😉😂
And Happy Thanksgiving too!
What cause burning. Everything. Got it.
;)
you left out having a saw with not enough HP, If you're using hardwoods for your project you want a minimum of a 3hp saw, using an underpowered saw can actually be dangerous and cause kickback
Next video... Why saws cut wood?
2 minutes gang
And one more cause for _really bad_ scorch marks: putting your saw blade on backwards. Trust me. I know. :)
Blunt blade. Especially when the teeth no longer are wider than the disk.
First!