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RV Water Heater Replacement - Atwood to Dometic
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- Опубликовано: 9 апр 2023
- I had to replace my older Atwood water heater, but the company went out of business. Research showed me that Dometic could be adapted as a replacement so I did just that. It was a 6-gallon gas/electric conversion that also requires a modified door which can be ordered. In the video, I discuss all the particulars including why I had to replace it to begin with.
#atwood #dometic #waterheater
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Thank you so much for this video. I just bought a Dometic to replace an Atwood and I was going to send it back because of the wiring. I had no clue how to properly plug it in. I never would have thought of adding the plug in switch the way you did. I have been trying for 5 days to get a human on the phone with a dealer and Dometic to no avail. Thank you so much for this.
I'm glad you found it helpful. 👍
Great video just what I was looking for! Fixed my screw ups with your video thanks!
I'm so glad. Best to you on your voyages!
Great walk through! Do you have part number for extension brackets so new one fits.
Never use Teflon tape for Gas line. Even the yellow for something that will be an interior use. That grommet can still allow fumes to squeeze by & go into your living space. Use original Rector Seal 5, not the Teflon one for any gas line. Teflon leaks, believe it or not about 70% of the time and won't seal if threads are disturbed in any way. Especially no sealer or tape for Flare fittings. They are designed to seal at the flare, not on the threads. By using tape on Flare threads it can prevent proper seating of the brass flare inside. Flare thread is Not Pipe thread.
Actually did some research on this before using it. Even now, people say different things. Still, from my experience in the Air Force, we used teflon tape on high pressure oxygen cylinders. We called them passenger oxygen kits and each C-130 aircraft had 15-30 of these high pressure oxygen tanks. Part of each preflight we did was to inspect the cylinders for leaks. They rarely leaked. For 15+ years I filled and maintained these cylinders, and I believe the PSI was much higher. Also wanted to mention that the connection to the water heater is outside of the RV vented (shown in video) and then the gas itself has an odor incorporated so it can be detected. All extra measures. Regardless, thanks for the input and know that I've been RVing for 14 years now and have only used the gas function once or twice. We're almost always at full hookups (electric) so the gas would only be used as an emergency backup.
So I had the same water heater as you did. Mine cracked but the plug was out. the water that drained back in the bottom/ or condinsate was enough water to crack the very bottom.
So what I do now is blow my Lines down with an Air compressor to try to remove as much water as possible.
😂 “tighten it a little bit more than a little”… would that be two or three “ugga-dugs?”Seriously, very helpful video. Thanks for posting👍🏻
Exactly...lol.
Do you need a check valve with that water heater?
Plug n Play
I have a 93 holiday rambler and me and the wife are attempting to live in it when we are not on the road in a semi. Im struggling with the propane side of my atwood. Wish there was an easy fix
Id like to have your old water heater for parts. I could getine working with my tank and your controls. Yep its discontinued for sure
my new Dometic WH-6GEA 94002 has an orange wire and the old Atwood one does not?
I'm pretty sure I discuss and show that in the video. I remember having concern over it. Check out the video completely and if you can't find it, hit me back.
Look at about 6:40 for the wire colors. In my case, the yellow on the old Atwood wasn't needed. You should have 4 other wires that match the new Dometic.
@@brentginastravelingadventures I have the white green and blue no orange or yellow from the old atwood, I only have 3 wires and am wondering what to do with the orange wire on the dometic?
the best I can see is the orange wire fires the gas element and the white fires the electric element: Page 21 epi.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-water-heater-6-gallon-gas-electric_9600024379_81175.pdf
on page 10 it shows the white ang orange tied together on the single switch: epi.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-water-heater-6-gallon-gas-electric_9600024379_81175.pdf
Wre you able to use the atwood door or did you use a dometic door
The two heaters are different brands. The exhaust and hold-close twist won't align. You have to buy a conversion kit. Click this link and it'll take you to the point in the video: ruclips.net/video/RPxXB-yDbqM/видео.htmlsi=pT-ZvYUs1vvu5TVq&t=1074
What was the wiring part! I need help with mine...
In area starting at about 20:00 to 24:00. It's color to color except for yellow which isn't used because it's integrated on Dometic. I talk about it at about 12:00 and again in the 20's. Please watch the whole video especially towards the end. It's pretty simple. You'll see it's easy.
What kind of screws did you use on the 2 side flanges (4 screws on each side) that have nothing behind but the lip of the water heater?
This mod is a adaption to the old hole in the RV. My guess is your speaking about the two panels that fill the hole on the right and left. The replacement water heater has a smaller hole normally. There's no older water heater to swap so this is the fix I found. Does that answer your question?
I am referring to the panels n each side. Is there any reason I couldn’t use pop rivets on the 4 holes on each side? I’d use the normal screws on the rest of the WH where they screw into the side of the RV. Hope that makes sense.
@@ballen4363Yeah, I thought so. I don't see why not. I'm not an expert, but an average Joe. Best to you.
Thanks. I’m a plain old Joe too.
Please don't do anymore videos!
I certainly might consider it, but you have to tell me why first.