Thank you, finally a channel i can relate to. As a South African living in South Africa I have been desperately looking for this type of information in a language I can understand. Blessed with ten thumbs and 0 knowledge of the art-form, equipped with all the tools I have bought because they looked great, I shall embark on a very complex task. I shall make a bread board. So here goes, once again a great channel and just keep it up you inspire me to use my tools, I'll post a pic of the outcome.
Thanks for the comment man. It's always nice to hear that the channel has local support. If you've got the tools you're halfway there. Best of luck with the board and I'd love to see the end result. As far as the wood species go that are available to South Africans, I find that Kiaat is great for chopping boards.
Yes, SUPER Video!! Plus, the Commentary is Also Enlightening, Pleasant & Refreshingly Friendly & Respectful. Whatever you guys DO, NEVER go to "Electronic Blog Forum" to ask a question. They're not just stupid, they're Snarky and get Ugly/Hostile when you ask a question they can't answer. This thread, as well as this Video, has been Perfect! Thanks, All.
I have 18 volt dc tools, drill, weed/grass trimmer. I just buy three medium 6 volt rechargeable batteries, wire them for 18 volts, connect to a two wire plug (the style used for trailer lights) and put them in a vinyl Lunch bag with shoulder strap. That way by attaching a matching plug, I can use my trimmer the way it was designed, to go where AC is not. It’s a plus for every tool that can run off the 18volts and last way longer than the original battery ever did since it has more amps. You can either charge them with your 18 volt battery charger or move the slide connectors around for a 6 volt battery charger.
Wish i knew about this video earlier... back in the day i was clueless about volts and amps and electromagnetism. I was like "Well i give it 12v, why doesn't it work?!" - well... amps, bro! Now i know much more from what i knew back then and getting the amps is really the key here. As you suggested, people not really in the know of electronics and magnetism should tread carefully and learn as much as they can before giving their shot.
well i'm not a scientist when it comes to electricity... but following your instructions on what to buy and how to connect it...i got my battery drill running even better than when its was working with the battery... for a total sum of 49 euro... not sure if the transformer is domestic or what but hey who cares.. it works... and i saved a shi..... load of money... for the battery!! thanks for the video from my side really appreciated... now only have to make a box and bolt it in!!
I wonder if there's enough space inside the old battery pack body to fit a rectifier and transformer sufficient for the task. THAT way, it could serve as supply to any drill or tool that used that pack.
Great video. Only one caveat, you're back to a corded tool. I imagine for most of us we'd be better off with a cheap corded drill that may last a couple of years...
one inexpensive power supply that can produce the necessary current is a PC (computer) power supply. It takes very little, if any mods on an ATX-type power supply to serve as a power source for a "cordless" drill. I made one in about 1/2 hour with connectors. Works like a champ on my 14.4 V DeWalt cordless drill.
@@MrGarda42 use an old ATX pc power supply. No additional rectifier is necessary, as the power supply takes care of that, along with producing enough voltage/current to power a cordless drill. Very slight (if any) loss of torque. All ATX power supplies have a high current, 12VDC line that can provide power for a cordless drill. Do a search on RUclips and there are many videos to show you any mods needed. I added a resistor and cut a trace on the PCB, easy if you are somewhat familiar with electronics. Just follow directions, and it'll be pretty much free if you have an old pc with working power supply around. Use a meter to check output voltage, or get the ATX output cable pinout available all over the web. Use the 12VDC (probably yellow) rail to power the drill. Connect yellow and ground (black) from largest ATX header and connect to drill. Use an old dead battery housing to connect to drill after you strip out the dead batteries.
Larry M you are a star mate. Thank you. And to imagine, literally today I was throwing the old box away. Saving the smps and will tinker next weekend. Cheers and thanks again.
4 года назад+1
@@larzman2020 kind of wierd that my psu shuts down as soon I power up the drill. I just don't understand why he used a bridgerectifier? Aren't power suplies usually dc out?
@ Your PSU probably has current limiting to protect itself from overheating. Yep, you are right. Power supplies are often DC out, but if I remember the video right, he is talking about putting a full bridge rectifier on two lines supplying AC coming from a transformer. Remember, a transformer can take your 240VAC and convert it to something like 14.4VAC. Rectify that and get (14.4V x 1.414) - 1.1V = 19.2VDC peak. The 1.1V is the diode drop in the rectifier. This is a pulsing DC voltage. It's not reversing. So it is not AC. If you smooth it with a big capacitor you'll have 19.2VDC out. Otherwise, I believe you'd have to take the rms value .707 or even the average value .637 of the 19.2VDC peak. I got 14.4VAC by wrapping my CNC machine's toroidal transformer with 14 wraps of 12AWG wire. Hope that helps.
LEHOU has a 12v 6amp for $9.99 or a 24v 6amp for $11 Power Supply on amazon. They are portable like a laptop adapter. I am currently using a 18v 3.5 amp powersupply for an old laptop and it works better than when the drill was new, but I think the Lehou power supply would be a better option to get more torque.
@@atesone76 well i got new life from an old drill I was about to discard with just a 3.5A charger, but if I bought like the Superpower 24v 6A adapter, this drill would fly.
I did the same thing but without watching RUclips. I might make a video about it but if you're going to go through the trouble like I did you better make it for a couple voltages and usages. I rewound a huge mot transformer and used the bridge rectifier off an old alternator. I made 4 taps for 12/14/18/20. I tested it on 20v by cutting a sledge hammer peen off at the very tip with a 20V cordless sawalls with carbon blades and man I could feel the spicy heat coming off the rectifier but luckily it's finned and cools quick. I cut for about an hr straight trying to stall the tool or stop up the blade.
@@bongd244 the problem is not the overall power . i'd agree that is good. this will primarily effect the starting power. basically it will stick less on startup.
I have an old 12 volt drill that came from the dump and I made a type of cord adapter with a rewired battery pack on one end and a 12 volt cigarette lighter plug on the other. I used a long cord from an old vacuum cleaner. Seems to work good but I need to find a better plug that can handle the amps. I use an old jumper pack that no longer has the amps to jumpstart but it seems enough to power the drill. I have the jumper pack plugged in all the time so it's charging when I'm not using the drill.
You need to match the voltage of the tool exactly. Undervoltage results in the underperformance, and overvoltage results in component damage. Power supplies don't typically output current unless they have been designed that way. A tabletop power supply for testing circuits will have current adjustments to output a certain current to test a circuit. Typical power supplies are rated for a certain current drawn by the load. When it says, 12V 5A on the power supply it means it supplies 12V and it can safely handle a load of 5A. You would have to put an Ammeter in the circuit to measure to load applied and then you could buy a power supply sufficient for the load required. Start up current is always higher than idle current, and a drill or saw idling will require less current than when either of those are actually performing work...ex. drilling into brick or cutting through 2"x4". If you don't have a power supply capable of handling that high current it will be damaged. Hope this helps.
Todd, you don't need an exact match. I have converted several 18V drills and saws to run off 12V. They all have plenty of power when under heavy load. A battery pack has enough internal resistance that its voltage does not remain constant under load. A regulated 12V supply puts out a constant voltage as long as it isn't overloaded. The unloaded RPM is lowered a bit, but that is not a problem. You're right about starting current. I used a current shunt and an oscilloscope to measure starting current. It is as high as full load current because IT IS full load. I use 30-40 amp supplies with 10AWG wire.
Chinese switched mode power supplies only cost about USD20 for 10Amps @ 12Volts, but for better protection against the motor back emf, they really need a reverse polarity diode across their output.
Thanks for this information. Just want to ask one question. I 've seen same solution on other video. my question is "why on the other video they installed capacitor on rectifier"?
I'm glad I ran across this video today. I've been wanting to build an adapter to run my 18 volt craftsman tools. They stopped making batteries and chargers for my set. I've tried power adapters and a laptop power supply. All of them had too low amperage. I've been looking for a way to build a power supply. Thanks.
GREAT VIDEO!!!! THANK YOU FROM US HERE IN HAWAII. I HAVE DRILLS ALL OVER THE PLACE AND TWICE AS MANY BATTERIES, ALL 18 VOLT. I AM ALWAYS RECHARGING THESE BLASTED BATTERIES. MANY OF THESE BATTERIES DO NOT HOLD A CHARGE ANYMORE. I FOR A LONG TIME HAVE HAD ENOUGH!!!! I HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT CONVERTING BACK TO AC: 115 VOLTS FOR A LONG TIME NOW. BUT, I WILL USE THE GOOD BATTERY AS A BACKUP. SO, THE WIRES WILL BE ALONGSIDE THE DC POLES AS A BACKUP. THE AMPS SHOULD BE THERE FOR ME. SO, I WILL SOLDER WIRES FROM THE ORGINAL CHARGERS AND SOLDER THE PLUS AND MINUS TO THE POLES IN THE DRILL. THE BATTERY WILL JUST ACT TO BACKUP THE AMPS.
Would a Power supply from a PC that has 12v rails, 5v and 3v rails outputs and they only output what there asked to by the component that its connected to, The one I have is the CIT 500CB ATX Switching psu, can deliver up to 3.3v at 28A 5V @ 30A 12V @ 20A FROM 230V, WOULD THE UNITS BE USABLE?
Good work! I've adapted several 18V tools to run off DC supplies. A REGULATED 12V supply is plenty to power an 18V drill or saw, but it needs to provide 30 to 40 A to match the torque of a good battery. Battery voltage sags under heavy load, so the motor is only getting 12V anyway at full load. PC power supplies are a good choice because they are cheap, have high current, have a fan and are lightweight. My biggest drill draws around 40A when under heavy load like a 4 inch (100mm) hole saw. I use banana plugs to connect tools to supplies. Forget about using a transformer unless you only need low power. It would take a 50 pound transformer to match a 5 pound switch mode supply.
Hi Chris, I was thinking about reply. I am inbetween deciding on a transformer or SMPS. So as per your suggestion a SMPS with 12 V , and amp range of 30-40 is more suitable for such conversion? I have a 18V skil cordless drill lying around and wanted to convert this way. Please provide your response.Thank you.
I have Bosch gdl 305 18v Mitre saw, can i use your power charger thing safely? Hikoki have battery with cable, and it's nice addition to any cordless platform.
I have seen cordless 18V impact(driver /drill & wrenches) directly connected to 110v or 230v AC mains and they still work perfectly. as the drills have universal motors which can use wither AC or DC. any comments on that and the safety for the drill pls.?
I don't think this works, drills have motors customized for low voltage, meaning thick wire, think similar to alternator in a car. They use high current at low voltage to get the energy required. Most are brushed motors, not universal. Universal motor is those in pedestal fans, not brushes, runs for years with no maintenance. If you try to run drill motor on 220V, it will burn instantly. And I think they have no protections, meaning coil is burnt and motor useless. Reason is that very high amps are used while drilling lik 30A, 40A, for few seconds, when drilling metal or bit gets stuck in hard material. Diodes and fuses that can stand such currents are bulky and cost more. So they don't include them. Basically just big liion battery wired to motor and switch.
Usually the third is a thermistor (sometimes marked "T"), to avoid overheating during charging. i.stack.imgur.com/RuNHX.png I have a couple OEM NiCd batteries for an old Hilti cordless drill with 4 terminals. With 1 + terminal, 1 "T" terminal and 2 - terminals.
Hi. We have same unit of drill. Would you mind if I ask if there still available new battery of that drill model in the market? Thanks for the tutorial video and more power
great video, I have a question, you opened the battery charger, didn't it have the proper transformer in that? could i not use that transformer and add the rectifier to that? i really don't know not busting balls.
It has a small transformer yes but can only supply enough current to charge a battery but won't be able to run the drill straight. It would be a nice solution if it was big enough because the charger actually has a rectifier after the transformer also. You would then just need to tap in after the rectifier and cut out the charging circuit but like I said, transformers too small.
Ken Barrow the first few units weren't no. All of their current outputs where too low. Only the large transformer I used last had a high enough current output.
Hi, lovely video and some great work. RUclips find of the week for me. I bought a cordless drill 15.6v with no charger and the battery pack had 11, 1.2v 1500mah batteries Ni-Cd. 3 of the 11 batteries had zero voltage, the rest ranged from 0.2 to 1.1v. I want to convert the cordless drill to corded. Please I have an old laptop adaptor with output rated as 20v and 3.25A, would this be enough to run the drill, or what would be the ideal range of adaptor to use? Kindest regards.
Will be enough at some point to run the drill however not to start the drill. Because most of the drills don't supply a soft start feature to limit the (huge) inrush current. Security feature (with a good power supply) kicks in when you try to start the motor. +3A is not enough to get torque. You need at least 10A to be safe.
Or use a gaming laptop power supply. 19v 4.74A for $7.50 USD or 19v 9.5A for $39 USD, plus shipping of course. I've seen many people on job site modify a 14.4 DeWalt to take 18v batteries.
Those power supplies you picked up seem low on current. My 18V impact driver has a trigger switch speed control with a 20A 36V rating on it. Anyone actually measure the current these thing typically use? Thanks in advance!
I connect my 12v saw to power supply(12vdc, 5a) however, it doesn't work, just light. There are three connections on its battery pack (12v, 3ah), but supply has two. What is wrong?
Your battery would be a lithium ion battery, in such case the third pin is the temperature sensor of battery. You can make it work by connecting a 2.2 k resistor across sensor and negative terminal of the drill. I am using my 12 volt lead acid battery in place of lithium ion stock battery.
generally electronics are pretty resistant to small chances in voltages its fine if the voltage is just a little high(but not too much, probably like +2-3v at most) or low (as the voltage would naturally dip in a batter because of the load)
@Chuck Kirchner yeah I think the trouble starts when batteries are odd sizes in parallel as they batteries try to equalize - the larger battery overpowering and destroying the smaller... that why its good to have similarly healthy batteries when building packs
find a simple transformer with a winding with the correct voltage, or just below, and enough current. Use a bridge rectifier (of suitable current rating).
@Schwalbe262 I bought the drill new from a big box store without a battery. I wrapped wire around my torrodual transformer to get AC. Then rectified it, added a smoothing cap and used a good sized switch to forward/reverse it. It runs on 20VDC. I don't know how many cells but you can figure it out with some research. Best of luck!
7 лет назад
Food for thought but the twelve volt drill I would use a 12 v lead acid battery and charge it when it goes flat. Thumbs up
I did run the drill in the video on a car battery also at some point. Works great and has a good deal of torque. In the case of the 18V, two 12V batteries in series will also deliver similar results. However, the higher RPM from supplying a 18V drill with 24V might cause excessive wear and heat build up.
7 лет назад
Run the 18v off a twelve plus a 6volt lead acid batteries not 2 twelve volts.
I used ruclips.net/user/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
Have to know alot of the ideas in electricity. I tryed just with a plug and cord, with the wires taped to popsicle sticks, just to test it. luckily my drill still works, but would be nice to convert battery to plug, I personally went and baught a corded drill. But having collected a few ryobi 18v . I need to review my option on making this kind of plug, for cheap.
Just get down to “brass tacks” i.e. what you found to be sufficient for operating the cordless tools! Like the previous comment mentioned , I’m going to skip your introduction. It’s called RUclips fluff. Just tell us what you used which would take only 2 minutes. 🙄😳🙃
Dimitris Vasilakopoulos hey man. I assume you mean the 12V DC power supply that I use to run the 14.4V drill? The little white one? It's a normal power supply that has a 12V DC 4.5A output. I'd does have a volt adjust function that allows you to slightly increase or decrease the output voltage. Generally about 10-15% either way. To run the 14.4V drill I adjusted the power supply output to its max.
Excellent content. Got a couple of old drills which I’ll use your technique to keep them usefull. You do talk too much but that’s what fast fwd is good for. Already subscribed for tips from your AIO bench.
Gordon, I don't think that he talks too much and I'm sure that many agree with me. I find listening to his thought process to be an integral part of the video.
Not unless you wish to burn out the motor and possibly start a fire. 110/220V mains will burn out anything designed in the 12 to 20V range. The motor isn't meant for the high voltage.
this is why cordless power tools have no larger value than $1. completely worthless and intentionally designed so that a new model gets released with a different plastic battery mold. they last a year or three, then the battery, which is no longer being made, is garbage. the amount of NiCad powertolls in the landfills makes them an environmental disaster. yet none of these companies are taking any responsibility. the only one i see is hitachi, where they include a fake battery back that's corded and actually plugs into a socket.
It would work with a gaming laptop charger. This guy was using a 3.6 amp output at first and it was about 85-90%. You can get a 4.7A output laptop charger for $7.50 USD or a 9.5A output gaming laptop charger for $39 plus shipping out of China. I have a leftover 7.11A 130w from an Acer laptop I had stolen from me. It should do fine. You can't do it with a 3 amp netbook charger.
At the instance you connect a laptop charger with the drill and press the trigger, the heavy initial current drawn by the drill makes the laptop charger to trigger it's short circuit protection and eventually the output of the charger would be cut off. A 18 volt drill would draw more than 6 amp under load which is too much for a laptop charger.
I'm missing the point of doing this. Admittedly I got kinda bored and skipped through. The industrial power supplies this guy is using usually cost a hell of a lot more than a corded drill that runs on ac which is a whole lot easier to deal with. In a pinch if you have crap lying around sure, but this is a crummy permanent solution and makes no sense at all.
All drills on bateries SUCKS! I tried to find a simple corded drill but what I found that in this world have no left any simple corded drill THAT IS NOT HAMMER DRILL but simple drill on wire!!!
Why? When you already have them, like i have one that served me 10 years with out issue and almost new identical Makita drill body, but all the batteries have died over time. Almost any drill body works 10-20 years if i just get power to them, so this type of solution is great for workbench usage. Also i have summer home where i rarely need drill, but when i do, my primary one is usually in shop at home and there is no point of buying one for the summer home, or carry primary machine to summer home every time, so this type of solution would be perfect for it. This type of hacking just extends the life of old machines, saves lots of money and is environmentally friendly if you are into that kind of stuff, but go ahead and shill your money to companies who design their products to broke down and let me guess you have Iphone on your pocket? go figure..
Great video. Thanks for making it!
For those in a real hurry, skip to about 10:55 for the shortcut.
Michael LaPierre thank you
thanks for saving my time
Thx
Thank you, finally a channel i can relate to. As a South African living in South Africa I have been desperately looking for this type of information in a language I can understand. Blessed with ten thumbs and 0 knowledge of the art-form, equipped with all the tools I have bought because they looked great, I shall embark on a very complex task. I shall make a bread board. So here goes, once again a great channel and just keep it up you inspire me to use my tools, I'll post a pic of the outcome.
Thanks for the comment man. It's always nice to hear that the channel has local support. If you've got the tools you're halfway there. Best of luck with the board and I'd love to see the end result. As far as the wood species go that are available to South Africans, I find that Kiaat is great for chopping boards.
Mine was
@@WoodshopJunkies jdu8x
@@WoodshopJunkies hdue7enxh
Yes, SUPER Video!! Plus, the Commentary is Also Enlightening, Pleasant & Refreshingly Friendly & Respectful.
Whatever you guys DO, NEVER go to "Electronic Blog Forum" to ask a question.
They're not just stupid, they're Snarky and get Ugly/Hostile when you ask a question they can't answer.
This thread, as well as this Video, has been Perfect!
Thanks, All.
thats experts to ya
I have 18 volt dc tools, drill, weed/grass trimmer. I just buy three medium 6 volt rechargeable batteries, wire them for 18 volts, connect to a two wire plug (the style used for trailer lights) and put them in a vinyl Lunch bag with shoulder strap. That way by attaching a matching plug, I can use my trimmer the way it was designed, to go where AC is not. It’s a plus for every tool that can run off the 18volts and last way longer than the original battery ever did since it has more amps. You can either charge them with your 18 volt battery charger or move the slide connectors around for a 6 volt battery charger.
Wish i knew about this video earlier... back in the day i was clueless about volts and amps and electromagnetism. I was like "Well i give it 12v, why doesn't it work?!" - well... amps, bro!
Now i know much more from what i knew back then and getting the amps is really the key here.
As you suggested, people not really in the know of electronics and magnetism should tread carefully and learn as much as they can before giving their shot.
well i'm not a scientist when it comes to electricity... but following your instructions on what to buy and how to connect it...i got my battery drill running even better than when its was working with the battery...
for a total sum of 49 euro...
not sure if the transformer is domestic or what but hey who cares.. it works...
and i saved a shi..... load of money... for the battery!!
thanks for the video from my side really appreciated...
now only have to make a box and bolt it in!!
Pleasure! Remember to add overload protection to the circuit to protect the components.
I wonder if there's enough space inside the old battery pack body to fit a rectifier and transformer sufficient for the task. THAT way, it could serve as supply to any drill or tool that used that pack.
Thank you for your time making this video... helped me very much.
Great video. Only one caveat, you're back to a corded tool. I imagine for most of us we'd be better off with a cheap corded drill that may last a couple of years...
The tool I want is cordless, battery sold separately, but battery costs as much as the tool and up. I don't want to wait for batteries to charge.
one inexpensive power supply that can produce the necessary current is a PC (computer) power supply. It takes very little, if any mods on an ATX-type power supply to serve as a power source for a "cordless" drill. I made one in about 1/2 hour with connectors. Works like a champ on my 14.4 V DeWalt cordless drill.
Would love to see how you did it Larry, especially tackling the rectifier bit.
@@MrGarda42 use an old ATX pc power supply. No additional rectifier is necessary, as the power supply takes care of that, along with producing enough voltage/current to power a cordless drill. Very slight (if any) loss of torque. All ATX power supplies have a high current, 12VDC line that can provide power for a cordless drill. Do a search on RUclips and there are many videos to show you any mods needed. I added a resistor and cut a trace on the PCB, easy if you are somewhat familiar with electronics. Just follow directions, and it'll be pretty much free if you have an old pc with working power supply around. Use a meter to check output voltage, or get the ATX output cable pinout available all over the web. Use the 12VDC (probably yellow) rail to power the drill. Connect yellow and ground (black) from largest ATX header and connect to drill. Use an old dead battery housing to connect to drill after you strip out the dead batteries.
Larry M you are a star mate. Thank you. And to imagine, literally today I was throwing the old box away. Saving the smps and will tinker next weekend. Cheers and thanks again.
@@larzman2020 kind of wierd that my psu shuts down as soon I power up the drill. I just don't understand why he used a bridgerectifier? Aren't power suplies usually dc out?
@ Your PSU probably has current limiting to protect itself from overheating.
Yep, you are right. Power supplies are often DC out, but if I remember the video right, he is talking about putting a full bridge rectifier on two lines supplying AC coming from a transformer. Remember, a transformer can take your 240VAC and convert it to something like 14.4VAC. Rectify that and get (14.4V x 1.414) - 1.1V = 19.2VDC peak. The 1.1V is the diode drop in the rectifier. This is a pulsing DC voltage. It's not reversing. So it is not AC. If you smooth it with a big capacitor you'll have 19.2VDC out. Otherwise, I believe you'd have to take the rms value .707 or even the average value .637 of the 19.2VDC peak. I got 14.4VAC by wrapping my CNC machine's toroidal transformer with 14 wraps of 12AWG wire. Hope that helps.
LEHOU has a 12v 6amp for $9.99 or a 24v 6amp for $11 Power Supply on amazon. They are portable like a laptop adapter. I am currently using a 18v 3.5 amp powersupply for an old laptop and it works better than when the drill was new, but I think the Lehou power supply would be a better option to get more torque.
Can you please write a link?.
those dont supply enough amps for a cordless drill 🙄
@@atesone76 well i got new life from an old drill I was about to discard with just a 3.5A charger, but if I bought like the Superpower 24v 6A adapter, this drill would fly.
I did the same thing but without watching RUclips. I might make a video about it but if you're going to go through the trouble like I did you better make it for a couple voltages and usages. I rewound a huge mot transformer and used the bridge rectifier off an old alternator. I made 4 taps for 12/14/18/20. I tested it on 20v by cutting a sledge hammer peen off at the very tip with a 20V cordless sawalls with carbon blades and man I could feel the spicy heat coming off the rectifier but luckily it's finned and cools quick. I cut for about an hr straight trying to stall the tool or stop up the blade.
Very knowledgeable advice mate. Thank you
try adding a capacitor where the wire connects to where the battery use to be.
that might give the drill a little extra go power.
how much power it will give? Base on the video, it got sufficient power already?
@@bongd244 the problem is not the overall power . i'd agree that is good.
this will primarily effect the starting power.
basically it will stick less on startup.
I have an old 12 volt drill that came from the dump and I made a type of cord adapter with a rewired battery pack on one end and a 12 volt cigarette lighter plug on the other. I used a long cord from an old vacuum cleaner. Seems to work good but I need to find a better plug that can handle the amps. I use an old jumper pack that no longer has the amps to jumpstart but it seems enough to power the drill. I have the jumper pack plugged in all the time so it's charging when I'm not using the drill.
Thanks for your awesome informational video ! You know your stuff man !!!
Today I Went To The Savers ThriftStore
& I Bought An Old Ryobi Cordless Drill
& It Runs Fine
I think the actual video starts after 10 minutes...
You need to match the voltage of the tool exactly. Undervoltage results in the underperformance, and overvoltage results in component damage. Power supplies don't typically output current unless they have been designed that way. A tabletop power supply for testing circuits will have current adjustments to output a certain current to test a circuit. Typical power supplies are rated for a certain current drawn by the load. When it says, 12V 5A on the power supply it means it supplies 12V and it can safely handle a load of 5A. You would have to put an Ammeter in the circuit to measure to load applied and then you could buy a power supply sufficient for the load required. Start up current is always higher than idle current, and a drill or saw idling will require less current than when either of those are actually performing work...ex. drilling into brick or cutting through 2"x4". If you don't have a power supply capable of handling that high current it will be damaged. Hope this helps.
Todd, you don't need an exact match. I have converted several 18V drills and saws to run off 12V. They all have plenty of power when under heavy load. A battery pack has enough internal resistance that its voltage does not remain constant under load. A regulated 12V supply puts out a constant voltage as long as it isn't overloaded. The unloaded RPM is lowered a bit, but that is not a problem. You're right about starting current. I used a current shunt and an oscilloscope to measure starting current. It is as high as full load current because IT IS full load. I use 30-40 amp supplies with 10AWG wire.
Chinese switched mode power supplies only cost about USD20 for 10Amps @ 12Volts, but for better protection against the motor back emf, they really need a reverse polarity diode across their output.
Thanks for this information. Just want to ask one question. I 've seen same solution on other video. my question is "why on the other video they installed capacitor on rectifier"?
So you say the motor on 18V drill will burn up if corded and into AC so what do they use for corded drills?
Dude this video is so brilliant
Can you show us how you would connect a drill to a car battery and have 20m cord.
I have 18v drill, can i make it work with 19v laptop charger because i don't found 18v charger?
I'm glad I ran across this video today. I've been wanting to build an adapter to run my 18 volt craftsman tools. They stopped making batteries and chargers for my set. I've tried power adapters and a laptop power supply. All of them had too low amperage. I've been looking for a way to build a power supply. Thanks.
Not a problem Scott. Thanks for watching.
I'm seeing 12V 7A powersupplies for sale for about $17 online... They seem to be battery chargers or computer power supplies...
GREAT VIDEO!!!! THANK YOU FROM US HERE IN HAWAII. I HAVE DRILLS ALL OVER THE PLACE AND TWICE AS MANY BATTERIES, ALL 18 VOLT. I AM ALWAYS RECHARGING THESE BLASTED BATTERIES. MANY OF THESE BATTERIES DO NOT HOLD A CHARGE ANYMORE. I FOR A LONG TIME HAVE HAD ENOUGH!!!! I HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT CONVERTING BACK TO AC: 115 VOLTS FOR A LONG TIME NOW. BUT, I WILL USE THE GOOD BATTERY AS A BACKUP. SO, THE WIRES WILL BE ALONGSIDE THE DC POLES AS A BACKUP. THE AMPS SHOULD BE THERE FOR ME. SO, I WILL SOLDER WIRES FROM THE ORGINAL CHARGERS AND SOLDER THE PLUS AND MINUS TO THE POLES IN THE DRILL. THE BATTERY WILL JUST ACT TO BACKUP THE AMPS.
Would a Power supply from a PC that has 12v rails, 5v and 3v rails outputs and they only output what there asked to by the component that its connected to, The one I have is the CIT 500CB ATX Switching psu, can deliver up to 3.3v at 28A 5V @ 30A 12V @ 20A FROM 230V, WOULD THE UNITS BE USABLE?
Very interesting presentation!! Thanks
so if original charger still good, I can just hook up?
What exactly is the power supply for the drill ?
Good work! I've adapted several 18V tools to run off DC supplies. A REGULATED 12V supply is plenty to power an 18V drill or saw, but it needs to provide 30 to 40 A to match the torque of a good battery. Battery voltage sags under heavy load, so the motor is only getting 12V anyway at full load. PC power supplies are a good choice because they are cheap, have high current, have a fan and are lightweight. My biggest drill draws around 40A when under heavy load like a 4 inch (100mm) hole saw. I use banana plugs to connect tools to supplies. Forget about using a transformer unless you only need low power. It would take a 50 pound transformer to match a 5 pound switch mode supply.
Hi Chris, I was thinking about reply. I am inbetween deciding on a transformer or SMPS. So as per your suggestion a SMPS with 12 V , and amp range of 30-40 is more suitable for such conversion? I have a 18V skil cordless drill lying around and wanted to convert this way. Please provide your response.Thank you.
NO .. a PC power supply does not put that many amps!! awful advice, comment should be removed
@@atesone76 Tell it to my 600W supply. It puts out 48A at 12V. You can buy even more powerful ones. A 1000W supply can put out 80A
I have Bosch gdl 305 18v Mitre saw, can i use your power charger thing safely?
Hikoki have battery with cable, and it's nice addition to any cordless platform.
Could you not use a PC power supply?
I think, cause the battery shape is already chunky, you could maybe mount the power supply inside of it (if it´s not too heavy of course)
Will a power supply and rectifier work?
We want you to do the same for Bosch cordless Rotary tool (mini craft please)
Awesome stuff big guy.
I have seen cordless 18V impact(driver /drill & wrenches) directly connected to 110v or 230v AC mains and they still work perfectly. as the drills have universal motors which can use wither AC or DC. any comments on that and the safety for the drill pls.?
Did u ever try this?
I don't think this works, drills have motors customized for low voltage, meaning thick wire, think similar to alternator in a car. They use high current at low voltage to get the energy required. Most are brushed motors, not universal. Universal motor is those in pedestal fans, not brushes, runs for years with no maintenance.
If you try to run drill motor on 220V, it will burn instantly. And I think they have no protections, meaning coil is burnt and motor useless. Reason is that very high amps are used while drilling lik 30A, 40A, for few seconds, when drilling metal or bit gets stuck in hard material. Diodes and fuses that can stand such currents are bulky and cost more. So they don't include them.
Basically just big liion battery wired to motor and switch.
What is the pinout of the 12V battery? It has 3 pins: positive, negative and??
Usually the third is a thermistor (sometimes marked "T"), to avoid overheating during charging.
i.stack.imgur.com/RuNHX.png
I have a couple OEM NiCd batteries for an old Hilti cordless drill with 4 terminals. With 1 + terminal, 1 "T" terminal and 2 - terminals.
I am also working on a similar project! 24V20A ebike charger would run dyson V6 same way metal case smsp trafo right?
what if i just have a regular 220v to 110v step down transformer? what can I do to make it work?
What output adapter is best for my Black and Decker cordless drill 12V 1.2amp
so the 14.4v drill need a 7a to work properly
Can I use a computer power supply?
Hi. We have same unit of drill. Would you mind if I ask if there still available new battery of that drill model in the market? Thanks for the tutorial video and more power
Which is best amp range for 20v
what is the value retifier
Does anyone know if there is a commercial adapter for power tools that does this.
Ya it's called a ac adapter from an old printer lol
Love from India😊
Thanks for a very detailed description it helped but still not sure
great video, I have a question, you opened the battery charger, didn't it have the proper transformer in that? could i not use that transformer and add the rectifier to that? i really don't know not busting balls.
It has a small transformer yes but can only supply enough current to charge a battery but won't be able to run the drill straight. It would be a nice solution if it was big enough because the charger actually has a rectifier after the transformer also. You would then just need to tap in after the rectifier and cut out the charging circuit but like I said, transformers too small.
@@WoodshopJunkies thankyou
I mean if you don’t have a power supply you can just rebuild the cells probably for a lot less than what the stores asking.
Was the charging transformer & rectifier not adequate for the job?
Ken Barrow the first few units weren't no. All of their current outputs where too low. Only the large transformer I used last had a high enough current output.
I have a 14.4 volt drill. Where can I get a suitable power adapter in the uk?
can i used retfire motor scooter
I was told hooking up electricity to a battery operated drill that it could overheat not even work down the road
Hi, lovely video and some great work. RUclips find of the week for me. I bought a cordless drill 15.6v with no charger and the battery pack had 11, 1.2v 1500mah batteries Ni-Cd. 3 of the 11 batteries had zero voltage, the rest ranged from 0.2 to 1.1v. I want to convert the cordless drill to corded. Please I have an old laptop adaptor with output rated as 20v and 3.25A, would this be enough to run the drill, or what would be the ideal range of adaptor to use? Kindest regards.
Will be enough at some point to run the drill however not to start the drill. Because most of the drills don't supply a soft start feature to limit the (huge) inrush current. Security feature (with a good power supply) kicks in when you try to start the motor. +3A is not enough to get torque. You need at least 10A to be safe.
Can I run an 18v drill off an 12v powersupply?
If so, what will be the effect of the reduced voltage?
Thank you
he is transferring 12v AC to DC by rectifier, which will increase the voltage to around 14~16v to make the drill work.
Or use a gaming laptop power supply. 19v 4.74A for $7.50 USD or 19v 9.5A for $39 USD, plus shipping of course. I've seen many people on job site modify a 14.4 DeWalt to take 18v batteries.
Those power supplies you picked up seem low on current. My 18V impact driver has a trigger switch speed control with a 20A 36V rating on it. Anyone actually measure the current these thing typically use? Thanks in advance!
I connect my 12v saw to power supply(12vdc, 5a) however, it doesn't work, just light. There are three connections on its battery pack (12v, 3ah), but supply has two. What is wrong?
Your battery would be a lithium ion battery, in such case the third pin is the temperature sensor of battery. You can make it work by connecting a 2.2 k resistor across sensor and negative terminal of the drill. I am using my 12 volt lead acid battery in place of lithium ion stock battery.
Awesome Dude 👍
update?
The DC output doesn't have to be regulated? Just rectified is enough?
generally electronics are pretty resistant to small chances in voltages
its fine if the voltage is just a little high(but not too much, probably like +2-3v at most) or low (as the voltage would naturally dip in a batter because of the load)
Could you possibly provide me with a code or part number on that rectifier?
Hey Francois, here's an Amazon link to a similar rectifier. amzn.to/2rbnEjX
You should be able to get all necessary info on it. Hope that's helpful.
Woodshop Junkies That helped a lot thank you very much, got all the info I needed. Appreciate the help. Great channel and great website!
Francois Spies Thanks. Always happy to help.
KBPC3510 or KBPC5010 will suit your needs...
Mind if I asked the value of rectifier(4 X diode)? Thanks!
Very inexpensive. About R20-30 in SA.
All of the other conversion videos want to hook up to a battery!
Ive just tried this but drill runs very slow?
If you are having a speed problem you are likely not supply enough Voltage.
You need to put a capacitor on the exit of the rectifier to stabilize the current
@Chuck Kirchner yeah I think the trouble starts when batteries are odd sizes in parallel as they batteries try to equalize - the larger battery overpowering and destroying the smaller... that why its good to have similarly healthy batteries when building packs
Would love to do this for some cordless tools I find here, but I can't find a transformer like that with the multiple outputs. What do I look for?
find a simple transformer with a winding with the correct voltage, or just below, and enough current. Use a bridge rectifier (of suitable current rating).
could you instead attach the drill to the charger and use it as a psu?
Not likely. The chargers usually trickle charge a small current. My impact drill has a speed control trigger rated at 20A.
@Schwalbe262 I bought the drill new from a big box store without a battery. I wrapped wire around my torrodual transformer to get AC. Then rectified it, added a smoothing cap and used a good sized switch to forward/reverse it. It runs on 20VDC. I don't know how many cells but you can figure it out with some research. Best of luck!
Food for thought but the twelve volt drill I would use a 12 v lead acid battery and charge it when it goes flat. Thumbs up
I did run the drill in the video on a car battery also at some point. Works great and has a good deal of torque. In the case of the 18V, two 12V batteries in series will also deliver similar results. However, the higher RPM from supplying a 18V drill with 24V might cause excessive wear and heat build up.
Run the 18v off a twelve plus a 6volt lead acid batteries not 2 twelve volts.
Tony Papantoniou dont conect 6v on 12v
im using a 13.5v regulated power supply 20 amp i use for ham radio on my ryboi 18 v cordless impac drill and has been fine
I used ruclips.net/user/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
Have to know alot of the ideas in electricity. I tryed just with a plug and cord, with the wires taped to popsicle sticks, just to test it. luckily my drill still works, but would be nice to convert battery to plug, I personally went and baught a corded drill. But having collected a few ryobi 18v . I need to review my option on making this kind of plug, for cheap.
What about the watts output
Watts isn't a output just voltage and amperage, watts is then usage of the drill. Which isn't important.
wow. a hybrid.... can do both corded or cordeless. you can now mass produce it.
Lol. What he can do is reduce the sizes of the transformer and rectifier into the battery pack and cord it to receive the 120vac/240vac.
Thank you
is there a specific wire size i should use for this?
You could use 1.0 mm2 (I max=10 A) for DC power supply to drill connection. You could also use bigger cross section - wire size.
My impact driver has a trigger speed control rated at 20A. Wire gauge tables can give you the size corresponding to the amps you would like to carry.
Just get down to “brass tacks” i.e. what you found to be sufficient for operating the cordless tools! Like the previous comment mentioned , I’m going to skip your introduction. It’s called RUclips fluff. Just tell us what you used which would take only 2 minutes. 🙄😳🙃
I can't believe this guy is getting schit for good quality videos... FOR FREE!
hi can you tell me more info about the third dc supply the one you use for the first drill
Dimitris Vasilakopoulos hey man. I assume you mean the 12V DC power supply that I use to run the 14.4V drill? The little white one? It's a normal power supply that has a 12V DC 4.5A output. I'd does have a volt adjust function that allows you to slightly increase or decrease the output voltage. Generally about 10-15% either way. To run the 14.4V drill I adjusted the power supply output to its max.
Just curious, does the Irms(AC current) = the Idc(DC current) being drawn?
Excellent content. Got a couple of old drills which I’ll use your technique to keep them usefull. You do talk too much but that’s what fast fwd is good for. Already subscribed for tips from your AIO bench.
Gordon, I don't think that he talks too much and I'm sure that many agree with me. I find listening to his thought process to be an integral part of the video.
Lekker man, lekker.
Can't i just connect a wire to the bottom of the drill straight into a power outlet?
Not unless you wish to burn out the motor and possibly start a fire. 110/220V mains will burn out anything designed in the 12 to 20V range. The motor isn't meant for the high voltage.
Ayyyy south african man
Nice
15:22 1.21 gigawatts?!
Kwai baie dankie
this is why cordless power tools have no larger value than $1. completely worthless and intentionally designed so that a new model gets released with a different plastic battery mold. they last a year or three, then the battery, which is no longer being made, is garbage. the amount of NiCad powertolls in the landfills makes them an environmental disaster. yet none of these companies are taking any responsibility. the only one i see is hitachi, where they include a fake battery back that's corded and actually plugs into a socket.
Just get a laptop charger with the same specs
I've tried this with my 18 volt drill. It didn't have enough amps to run the drill.
The Power supply must run in real time >10 Amps and the charger is maybe 1-2 Amos, way to low
It would work with a gaming laptop charger. This guy was using a 3.6 amp output at first and it was about 85-90%. You can get a 4.7A output laptop charger for $7.50 USD or a 9.5A output gaming laptop charger for $39 plus shipping out of China. I have a leftover 7.11A 130w from an Acer laptop I had stolen from me. It should do fine. You can't do it with a 3 amp netbook charger.
At the instance you connect a laptop charger with the drill and press the trigger, the heavy initial current drawn by the drill makes the laptop charger to trigger it's short circuit protection and eventually the output of the charger would be cut off. A 18 volt drill would draw more than 6 amp under load which is too much for a laptop charger.
Powerball
I'm missing the point of doing this. Admittedly I got kinda bored and skipped through. The industrial power supplies this guy is using usually cost a hell of a lot more than a corded drill that runs on ac which is a whole lot easier to deal with. In a pinch if you have crap lying around sure, but this is a crummy permanent solution and makes no sense at all.
13 minutes of what will not work....video could have been done in 4 minutes.
Why You Wasting Your Time
And Donot Use An Ac Adapter
Like Others ???
Amén.
All that talking to say notting
All drills on bateries SUCKS! I tried to find a simple corded drill but what I found that in this world have no left any simple corded drill THAT IS NOT HAMMER DRILL but simple drill on wire!!!
Time to toss those old drills in the garbage and buy a new Brushless 18V Drill/Driver.
Why? When you already have them, like i have one that served me 10 years with out issue and almost new identical Makita drill body, but all the batteries have died over time. Almost any drill body works 10-20 years if i just get power to them, so this type of solution is great for workbench usage.
Also i have summer home where i rarely need drill, but when i do, my primary one is usually in shop at home and there is no point of buying one for the summer home, or carry primary machine to summer home every time, so this type of solution would be perfect for it.
This type of hacking just extends the life of old machines, saves lots of money and is environmentally friendly if you are into that kind of stuff, but go ahead and shill your money to companies who design their products to broke down and let me guess you have Iphone on your pocket? go figure..
II Event O
Your so handsome, r u married? I could not understand anything, your fault!
Go to horny jail