I’m loving these restoration type videos you’re putting out! I was never really into that kind of stuff before but you do an amazing job with them. Love it! Keep it up!
I am trying to find some more projects during the winter break but the auctions haven't been cooperating. At least this one should give quite a few videos! :D
Another thing, which you may already know, find a local hydraulic hose repair shop to make your new hoses. It has to be cheaper than buying from the manufacturer.
That's the route I went! I live in a small town, so only one that I was able to find local on the interwebs. Hopefully the new hoses will be ready in the next several days.
My thinking was it was cheap enough I still had a lot of wiggle room to dump into parts before I couldn't sell it for what I ended up investing in it. Thank you for watching!!!
Looks like a great find even if you have to put a few $ into it. Should really help on those big projects you enjoy so much:) Love the built in mosquito control.
Great job getting it running. Now to buy a case of grease and start greasing everything!! Can’t wait until the next video comes out. Good luck on the rest of the work getting it ready to make you $$$!!!!
The oil filter mount gasket isn't correct, but I suspect you know that, it is letting unfiltered oil and what little oil that does go through the filter mix. You may need to make your own gasket or update the mount to fit the gasket available. The air filter was installed backwards previously so I can see why you would reinstall it backwards. The fins on the filter are meant to whirl the air entering the housing and make the heavier debris fall to the bottom.
Could I use gasket maker in a tube for this application? Or would I need to find a blank gasket and cut one out? Thanks for the heads up about the air filter! I will flip it around.
@@CopperCreekCuts No to gasket maker. Check and see if there are alternate gasket part numbers for that oil filter mount now that you know what you are needing. Or get a sheet of gasket paper and make make one.
The 4.108 is a great engine. Biggest bang for your buck in terms of tuning it is going to be looking at the mechanical fuel pump timing, most likely a Delphi DPA. The best place for parts is parts4engines located in England, they are fantastic to work with and priced well. Most 4.108s dont have glow plugs but do have an diesel fed intake heater thats cheap to retrofit. Good luck and grats on the Skid!
So the exhaust on skids usually goes straight up or to the rear. I worked on stuff like this for 15 years, and your thoughts on getting the hydraulics squared away before doing anything serious with them is absolutely correct. This could be used for the landscaping Vidor if you had any of those clean ups again where you didn't want to take the ventrack
I’m new to you, good to see someone else struggling in tight places, shame I wasn’t stood next to you, I would of said ,,,there’s a bolt on the front to take oil filter off😂, look forward to see the next episode 🍻
The tube coming from the fuel tank to the top of the injectors is the return line. All the unused fuel (which has already be filtered) is returned to the tank.
Not sure if you already did. But once you get fresh diesel in the tank it will run much better. Also make sure you are not pushing a control accidentally for a few reasons but main one is it makes starting harder because the motor is trying to spin the hydraulic motor as well as starting. Good luck
Good morning, Brad! Sweet skid-steer! And for the low, low price of just $1,800, you also get a bucketful of dirt and leaves! How can you beat that😆!?! In all seriousness, this was a great video! Not too many guys will put themselves out there and say "I don't know," or "I have no clue." Much respect, Brother! If nothing else, you had fun. Come oooon, you had fuuuun. As much as I complain about working on nasty, greasy vehicles, I still have fun, regardless of the cussing😄! Well, I have to say, I'm excited for you! Best of luck! I'll be waiting to see what's in store. I'm waiting for our first winter storm here in central CT😖. Have a great weekend!
The air cleaner cap needs a rubber valve on it. The dust valve needs to point down, no more than 20 degrees offset. Recommend replacing any old rubber fuel lines with new. Low sulfer fuel will dry put old lines so they crack allowing air into the system, supply and return lines. The primary fuel filter should have a water drain valve on the bottom to drain moisture.
Yes that's a circulating heater for the coolant. Can be the difference in starting or not starting when it gets cold (like here). Makes it easier on the engine when you do use it also. Clean the prongs (should really be a ground on it), try it again, and if you want to you can just get any generic one from anywhere. They do come in different wattage also. If it has glow plugs, get them working - you need them to cold start all the time.
I did not see any glow plugs on the engine, maybe I missed seeing them. The thing you could not identify on the engine is called a tank heater used in cold weather to bring the engine up to operating temp if left on long enough If you have a non glow plug engine replacing the tank heater will really save on the starter/battery. The heaters are not very expensive.
you never want to use metal on aluminum to take off a gasket micarta board is what you use ,u should really true that fitting up also by flat sanding it true on granite or glass
@@CopperCreekCuts them tanks probably have a line that connects them. Semi trucks have 2 tanks and a line that connects them because they only have a pump in one tank
The black flakes are carbonized oil deposits most likely from heat and lack of maintenance. Not a huge deal just change the oil more frequently based on the service service schedule. Also a little Vaseline to keep the gasket stuck on when bolting works great. That oil is fine BTW and yes that is a convection style coolant heater. Great idea for colder weather as that most likely has no glow plugs.
Maybe nobodys ever said this but you should always run anything hydrostatic wide open. Much easier on the entire system. Without rated flow the system heats up very quickly. Most nydraulic systems are designed to run at a certain gpm to maintain cooling. Heat kills pumps. Only thing worse is complete oil starvation.
Watching a few weeks late. The mystery device appears to be Kat's style coolant heater. If wanting to replace, check SKU 13100 which is a 1000 watt circulating coolant hose heater.
Thank you kindly for the watch and comment. I am hopeful of the same. My dream goal would be a full restoration, but I am out of my depth to know if that is feasible or even possible. Will just start fixing things as we come to them!
I recently inherited what I believe is a late 70s John Deere JD24. The design of it is very similar to your machine, but it only has a 4 cylinder Wisconsin gas engine. It has been sitting for close to 20 years with the engine out of it. It should be a fun project once I get my new shop built! I enjoyed your video!
Too cool! If I didn't get my history wrong Owatonna made them for John Deere. They are clones of the Owatonna skids and the parts should be interchangeable! When you start the project shoot me an email!
I felt your pain with that oil filter. I guess you didn’t have your maintenance manual yet when you attempted that. Loved the video and it looks like a fun winter project.
Unfortunately I did have them but in a string of misleading information the Perkins website showed only two spin-on filters for that engine (and no conversion kit to clue me in there was an alternative), my Perkins parts manual showed a spin on, my Loader parts and owners manual didn't give details on the engine components, and my Loader service manual is actually for a John Deere 170, which is a rebranded Mustang 1700, and looks to deal exclusively with a Wisconsin gas engine and not my Perkins diesel. All signs pointed to spin on and no clues were there for the canister type, hence my inability to even entertain the fact that it was anything other than STUCK! :)
A working skidsteer will be a good addition to your equipment. With all of the attachments you can buy, this will allow you to undertake work that is beyond the capability of the Ventrac.
20 minutes in the line you are pointing to on the top of the injectors is the return fuel line. If this is a Perkins 4-108 as someone says you will need to bleed the fuel system to get it to start and run better. you'll find two bleeders on the injection pump. then with the engine running crack open the big 5/8 nuts on the fuel lines to bleed each injector. The 4-108 is an indirect injection diesel. As I remember they would smoke more when cold. Also the indirect direction injectors would carbon and gum up more than the direct injection. I would consider having the injectors checked and reset if you continue to have running and starting issues. And easy on the ether, we always sprayed it on a rag and held it over the intake. Liquid ether inside these small diesels destroyed a lot of pistons. Vapor only.
Just purchased a 1700 series owatanna skid steer has the 4 cylinder ford in it. We are ripping the old drive system out and converting to hydraulic drive . Old clutches on the old drive were spent and hydraulic motors are cheaper and more efficient new gas motor pump and hyd. Motors total cost to convert cheaper than rebuilding the old system.
The 16.5 tires are very costly and that’s most likely the reason for the 15 inch wheel and tires. You could probably use a 16 inch equipment wheel and tire to replace the 15 inch tire and wheel combination. Those hard lines you could probably check out equipment salvage yards to find those and the exhaust would be cheaper to just go to a local muffler shop and have them custom build an exhaust system.
I've been a mechanic for almost 18 years...I was laughing when you found the bolt on the oil filter..it even happens to the guys who do it everyday....
@@CopperCreekCuts nobody knows everything and any mechanics that say they do are lying...I see some crazy new stuff almost daily. Did a 2007 bmw 750li starter last week...that thing has a hydraulic dampener on the sway bar...I stared at it a bit and just said huh wth is the point of that 😳 🤔 😄
35:35 happens to everyone. 40:23 that's how the gasket should look like. Outer lip should be the same as the base for the filter and the inner part should be the two holes on the block. As is, that gasket does nothing. You should get a piece of gasket material, punch the outside shape using the base of the filter to form it (with the hammer method - if you don't know it, you use a hammer to gently form the gasket by taping on the edge and the gasket appears) and once you have a shape, you use two bolts to put the shaped gasket blank on the block and use a ball peen hammer (or you can buy the gasket shaping tools - ball bearing welded to a rod, various sizes) to shape the two holes. Again, as is, it does nothing.
It looks like a uniloader, I have a couple of case 1537's they have Wisconsin air cooled. I have found the clutches expensive to fix and a lot of work to get the side panels off. The drive can be damaged easily, Good luck looks like a fun project.
I had a case 1743 that looked identical to that. If there is a torque plate and drive line between the flywheel and a gear box with a hydraulic pump on the right side and a clutch on the left side. Sell the machine while the hydraulics still work the company that made the gear box no longer makes parts to service them and the drive for the pump will split out. There is only 1 company that will rebuild the torque plate if it goes out and the clutches for the drives are hard to come by. There's is 2 company's that will make them for. The chains in the drive boxes need constant adjustment and if anything in your drive box's fail it contaminates your whole hydraulic system. Loved my machine but it got to the point that is was not worth fixing once the hydraulic drive went out
I thought I had heard you say in the beginning that you purchased the maintenance and shop manuals... If having trouble or questions I would have referenced them? Lol. I also wing it till I am stumped. I also do not spend nothing or additional labor until I know it will run. No use wasting money uf the motor us shot unless you were fully committed to repairing no matter what... Just a few observations. Good luck.
you need a glow plug switch you hold on for ten seconds there might be one around that cab that`s a choke not a shut off it will assist in starting but you need to preheat your glow plugs first ,that will never start in winter weather with out the glowplug preheat system
Brad, you could save yourself some time time by buying a can of Kroil to spray down all those sticking pieces of metal. I've been using it for over 30 years and I can't recall a time it failed to free up what I sprayed it on (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer).
That fuel line is a return line. It's already been filtered. That machine has the look of a cheapened Melroe Bobcat 500 right down to the drive belt and variable pulley system. It might be the same type clutch setup in the drive system behind the plates behind the wheels.
I got pretty much exact same unit with an engine transplant.... maybe months newer since it was sold under brand of CASE. I have some manuals if it helps you.
Most NAPAs make hydraulic hoses while you wait and are reasonably priced. Some Oreillys do, but they aren't as cheap. Is also use the local hydraulic shop for my mini ex and skid steer cylinders and hoses if they're closer to the job.
If you have stubborn gunk that just doesn't want to come out use Naphtha. That stuff dissolves anything. Just do it outside, cause it also dissolves lungs. I swear by the stuff. I use it to clean my chains, i've dunked entire engine parts in it. Just shake it a couple of times every half an hour for two hours and it comes out clean.
I am working on the gas version of this and have addressed many of the same problems you are acquiring now, so if you need help, I may know answers from my own experience.Steve
I've been looking at skid steers for several years on Facebook marketplace and IronPlanet auctions. This is the first one I have seen this cheap with a chance of running. Your area may be different.
Just sold my 1989 for $10k CAD these things hold value if you have a working one , if you can get it working for less than 5k then that’s a steal my friend
Did you get rid of this skid steer or did you finish fixing it I just found your site I find it very interesting that on the side of your skid steer is a block heater
May need just need new cord. Ohm at end cord if no good. They just screw in side engine very easy to do. Almost look like heating element in hot water tank. U need them for very cold days. Might be tight fit replacement but extremely easy to do.
Big thanks to @Jobber for sponsoring the channel, you can check out a free trial with a discount after here: go.getjobber.com/coppercreekcuts
I’m loving these restoration type videos you’re putting out! I was never really into that kind of stuff before but you do an amazing job with them. Love it! Keep it up!
I am trying to find some more projects during the winter break but the auctions haven't been cooperating. At least this one should give quite a few videos! :D
Another thing, which you may already know, find a local hydraulic hose repair shop to make your new hoses. It has to be cheaper than buying from the manufacturer.
That's the route I went! I live in a small town, so only one that I was able to find local on the interwebs. Hopefully the new hoses will be ready in the next several days.
@@CopperCreekCuts I know your area fairly well, I’m in Pensacola.
@@crprovostyea that’s what we do way cheaper then a manufacturer
The second unfiltered fuel line is probably a return line back to the tank.
Thanks!
You need to run the glow plugs before starting. Thats why it took so long to run. Thats why the switch moves to the left and right.
Not sure if you skipped around during the video but that is what I speculated on camera regarding the ignition. Thanks for the tip!
I've never commented on one of your videos but it was different and fun to watch. Good luck with the new skid steer.
Glad you enjoyed it and thank you for commenting!!!
Enjoyed your efforts. Thanks for sharing your work & victory getting it running.
Glad you enjoyed it and thank you for commenting!
Love these types of videos, thank you for not adding a bunch of music 😊
Glad you like them!
$1800. Sounds like a good price. Good Luck and thanks for the videos!
My thinking was it was cheap enough I still had a lot of wiggle room to dump into parts before I couldn't sell it for what I ended up investing in it. Thank you for watching!!!
I have to admit i loved watching this. Its great how you never give up no matter the roadblock you run into.
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you for watching!
@@CopperCreekCuts I also have to say i would have been cussing a blue streak with that oil filter.
@saliston 😂I came REAL close!
Looks like a great find even if you have to put a few $ into it. Should really help on those big projects you enjoy so much:) Love the built in mosquito control.
LOLOL Love this! :D
Great job getting it running. Now to buy a case of grease and start greasing everything!! Can’t wait until the next video comes out. Good luck on the rest of the work getting it ready to make you $$$!!!!
Thanks for watching!!
The fuel line, on the right, is a return line, to the fuel tanks. Nice find, by the way.
Thank you!
Good Job. That’s how we learn. Trial and error and once you get the manuals you will be fine. Once again good job Brad!
Many thanks!
The oil filter mount gasket isn't correct, but I suspect you know that, it is letting unfiltered oil and what little oil that does go through the filter mix. You may need to make your own gasket or update the mount to fit the gasket available.
The air filter was installed backwards previously so I can see why you would reinstall it backwards. The fins on the filter are meant to whirl the air entering the housing and make the heavier debris fall to the bottom.
Could I use gasket maker in a tube for this application? Or would I need to find a blank gasket and cut one out? Thanks for the heads up about the air filter! I will flip it around.
@@CopperCreekCuts No to gasket maker. Check and see if there are alternate gasket part numbers for that oil filter mount now that you know what you are needing. Or get a sheet of gasket paper and make make one.
Owatonna was absorbed by Manitou and then was sold to Gehl in 97. Love learning about brands I never knew about.
Same here, it has been fun piecing it all together!
If I remember correctly Owatonna made the John Deere 60 skid loader back in the 1970s.
Thanks for sharing, I appreciate you including both the success and failures you had so we can all learn something
Thank you!
The 4.108 is a great engine. Biggest bang for your buck in terms of tuning it is going to be looking at the mechanical fuel pump timing, most likely a Delphi DPA. The best place for parts is parts4engines located in England, they are fantastic to work with and priced well. Most 4.108s dont have glow plugs but do have an diesel fed intake heater thats cheap to retrofit. Good luck and grats on the Skid!
Thank you so much for the info, very helpful!
So the exhaust on skids usually goes straight up or to the rear. I worked on stuff like this for 15 years, and your thoughts on getting the hydraulics squared away before doing anything serious with them is absolutely correct. This could be used for the landscaping Vidor if you had any of those clean ups again where you didn't want to take the ventrack
Thank you so much! I appreciate the info!
One of the fuelline from the injectors is the returnline to the tank,no filter needed.
Thank you!
Always nice when you can do the work on your equipment yourself. Great investment!
You got that right! Thank you for commenting!
I’m new to you, good to see someone else struggling in tight places, shame I wasn’t stood next to you, I would of said ,,,there’s a bolt on the front to take oil filter off😂, look forward to see the next episode 🍻
LOL Definitely a 'wish you were here' moment! :D
The tube coming from the fuel tank to the top of the injectors is the return line. All the unused fuel (which has already be filtered) is returned to the tank.
Thank you! I am still trying to figure out where/how the tanks connect.
Great job getting it running. Looking forward to watching your progress and future videos.
Thank you!
This looks like a great project! These videos are great!
I am glad you like it, thanks for watching!
Not sure if you already did. But once you get fresh diesel in the tank it will run much better. Also make sure you are not pushing a control accidentally for a few reasons but main one is it makes starting harder because the motor is trying to spin the hydraulic motor as well as starting. Good luck
I appreciate this info, looking at the video on the editor I realized I WAS doing just that! :D
Good morning, Brad! Sweet skid-steer! And for the low, low price of just $1,800, you also get a bucketful of dirt and leaves! How can you beat that😆!?! In all seriousness, this was a great video! Not too many guys will put themselves out there and say "I don't know," or "I have no clue." Much respect, Brother! If nothing else, you had fun. Come oooon, you had fuuuun. As much as I complain about working on nasty, greasy vehicles, I still have fun, regardless of the cussing😄! Well, I have to say, I'm excited for you! Best of luck! I'll be waiting to see what's in store. I'm waiting for our first winter storm here in central CT😖. Have a great weekend!
Hey, dirt is expensive nowadays!😂👍
🤣@@CopperCreekCuts
Man this was a awesome video please keep us updated
Will do! Currently waiting on the hoses before any progress can be made.
This was a great video and I’m glad to see you were able to get it running
Thank you for watching and commenting!
The fuel line you were asking about around 21:00 is the return to tank.
Thank you! That makes sense!
Excellent video as usual 😊
Thank you so much 😀
The air cleaner cap needs a rubber valve on it. The dust valve needs to point down, no more than 20 degrees offset. Recommend replacing any old rubber fuel lines with new. Low sulfer fuel will dry put old lines so they crack allowing air into the system, supply and return lines. The primary fuel filter should have a water drain valve on the bottom to drain moisture.
Yes that's a circulating heater for the coolant. Can be the difference in starting or not starting when it gets cold (like here). Makes it easier on the engine when you do use it also. Clean the prongs (should really be a ground on it), try it again, and if you want to you can just get any generic one from anywhere. They do come in different wattage also. If it has glow plugs, get them working - you need them to cold start all the time.
Thanks for the tip! I may just get a new one for the safety of a ground plug but I'll see if I can fix it first!
Loved this episode. I learned and laughed at the same time. Hope from here on out its a lot easier too fixing it.
Thank you!
I did not see any glow plugs on the engine, maybe I missed seeing them. The thing you could not identify on the engine is called a tank heater used in cold weather to bring the engine up to operating temp if left on long enough If you have a non glow plug engine replacing the tank heater will really save on the starter/battery. The heaters are not very expensive.
I will take a look, thank you!
you never want to use metal on aluminum to take off a gasket micarta board is what you use ,u should really true that fitting up also by flat sanding it true on granite or glass
That line from the injectors to the tank is a return for what the injectors don’t need
Does that mean there is another line coming from the right tank I just missed?
@@CopperCreekCuts them tanks probably have a line that connects them. Semi trucks have 2 tanks and a line that connects them because they only have a pump in one tank
@@CopperCreekCuts yep probably down low there will be a cross line probably on bottom of tank or very low to help equalize the tanks.
@@Boga217 I'll search for it next time I work on it!
The black flakes are carbonized oil deposits most likely from heat and lack of maintenance. Not a huge deal just change the oil more frequently based on the service service schedule. Also a little Vaseline to keep the gasket stuck on when bolting works great. That oil is fine BTW and yes that is a convection style coolant heater. Great idea for colder weather as that most likely has no glow plugs.
Thank you for the info! If I can find some plugs for the lines I will remove it and see if it can be fixed.
Maybe nobodys ever said this but you should always run anything hydrostatic wide open. Much easier on the entire system. Without rated flow the system heats up very quickly. Most nydraulic systems are designed to run at a certain gpm to maintain cooling. Heat kills pumps. Only thing worse is complete oil starvation.
I appreciate the tip! I will once the new lines were on. I was too afraid of hose rupture to redline everything.
Watching a few weeks late. The mystery device appears to be Kat's style coolant heater. If wanting to replace, check SKU 13100 which is a 1000 watt circulating coolant hose heater.
Thank you for the tip, much appreciated!
Looks like a nice winter project. I believe you doubled your investment. Looking forward to seeing your progress
Thank you kindly for the watch and comment. I am hopeful of the same. My dream goal would be a full restoration, but I am out of my depth to know if that is feasible or even possible. Will just start fixing things as we come to them!
I recently inherited what I believe is a late 70s John Deere JD24. The design of it is very similar to your machine, but it only has a 4 cylinder Wisconsin gas engine. It has been sitting for close to 20 years with the engine out of it. It should be a fun project once I get my new shop built! I enjoyed your video!
Too cool! If I didn't get my history wrong Owatonna made them for John Deere. They are clones of the Owatonna skids and the parts should be interchangeable! When you start the project shoot me an email!
I felt your pain with that oil filter. I guess you didn’t have your maintenance manual yet when you attempted that. Loved the video and it looks like a fun winter project.
Unfortunately I did have them but in a string of misleading information the Perkins website showed only two spin-on filters for that engine (and no conversion kit to clue me in there was an alternative), my Perkins parts manual showed a spin on, my Loader parts and owners manual didn't give details on the engine components, and my Loader service manual is actually for a John Deere 170, which is a rebranded Mustang 1700, and looks to deal exclusively with a Wisconsin gas engine and not my Perkins diesel. All signs pointed to spin on and no clues were there for the canister type, hence my inability to even entertain the fact that it was anything other than STUCK! :)
A working skidsteer will be a good addition to your equipment. With all of the attachments you can buy, this will allow you to undertake work that is beyond the capability of the Ventrac.
I would really like the ability to lift heavy things!
I give you credit you have amazing patience. So entertaining watching this
Thank you!
Great video. for not knowing much you covered alot!! looking forward to see next videos
Napa is the place for new hoses if you have one in your state near you
I do have one nearby, thanks! I will check there in the future.
Kudos to you for letting us see your oil filter screw up, i have done many similar things in my half assed back yard diy mechanic career. 😁
20 minutes in the line you are pointing to on the top of the injectors is the return fuel line. If this is a Perkins 4-108 as someone says you will need to bleed the fuel system to get it to start and run better. you'll find two bleeders on the injection pump. then with the engine running crack open the big 5/8 nuts on the fuel lines to bleed each injector. The 4-108 is an indirect injection diesel. As I remember they would smoke more when cold. Also the indirect direction injectors would carbon and gum up more than the direct injection. I would consider having the injectors checked and reset if you continue to have running and starting issues. And easy on the ether, we always sprayed it on a rag and held it over the intake. Liquid ether inside these small diesels destroyed a lot of pistons. Vapor only.
Thank you so much for this, I really appreciate the feedback and info! I will go easy on the starting fluid from now on!
4.108 can be a pain to bleed. It's also critical you do so.
Just purchased a 1700 series owatanna skid steer has the 4 cylinder ford in it. We are ripping the old drive system out and converting to hydraulic drive . Old clutches on the old drive were spent and hydraulic motors are cheaper and more efficient new gas motor pump and hyd. Motors total cost to convert cheaper than rebuilding the old system.
The 16.5 tires are very costly and that’s most likely the reason for the 15 inch wheel and tires. You could probably use a 16 inch equipment wheel and tire to replace the 15 inch tire and wheel combination. Those hard lines you could probably check out equipment salvage yards to find those and the exhaust would be cheaper to just go to a local muffler shop and have them custom build an exhaust system.
Good tips, thank you! I will try to locate the items you recommended!
Brad, you and I have the same process in repairing things. What should take 5 minutes takes me 5 hours. Enjoyed the video.
Hay we can always learn something new. Many people will learn from your experience.
Thank you kindly!
I've been a mechanic for almost 18 years...I was laughing when you found the bolt on the oil filter..it even happens to the guys who do it everyday....
Glad my misery has company! :D
@@CopperCreekCuts nobody knows everything and any mechanics that say they do are lying...I see some crazy new stuff almost daily. Did a 2007 bmw 750li starter last week...that thing has a hydraulic dampener on the sway bar...I stared at it a bit and just said huh wth is the point of that 😳 🤔 😄
Looking forward to the next video on the skid steer
Many thanks!
When doing a battery the positive is always first on when installing and last off when disconnecting. Like underwear, think of it as red underwear.
35:35 happens to everyone.
40:23 that's how the gasket should look like. Outer lip should be the same as the base for the filter and the inner part should be the two holes on the block. As is, that gasket does nothing. You should get a piece of gasket material, punch the outside shape using the base of the filter to form it (with the hammer method - if you don't know it, you use a hammer to gently form the gasket by taping on the edge and the gasket appears) and once you have a shape, you use two bolts to put the shaped gasket blank on the block and use a ball peen hammer (or you can buy the gasket shaping tools - ball bearing welded to a rod, various sizes) to shape the two holes.
Again, as is, it does nothing.
Thank you for the tip, I am ordering gasket material from amazon now. Hopefully I will find something compatible!
Good video, keep us posted
Thank you!
You need some tools other than a crescent wrench
It gets everything done :D
Really enjoyed your video, it was real and I don't think I would have your patience
First love ur videos keep doing what ur doing.
Much appreciated, thank you!
It looks like a uniloader, I have a couple of case 1537's they have Wisconsin air cooled. I have found the clutches expensive to fix and a lot of work to get the side panels off. The drive can be damaged easily, Good luck looks like a fun project.
Excellent feedback, I appreciate it and will note it!
For future jobs I’d look into a strap filter wrench. I get it wouldn’t have done the trick this time, but it would help in future jobs
Perfect thank you Brad
Glad you liked it! Thank you for watching and commenting!
I had a case 1743 that looked identical to that. If there is a torque plate and drive line between the flywheel and a gear box with a hydraulic pump on the right side and a clutch on the left side. Sell the machine while the hydraulics still work the company that made the gear box no longer makes parts to service them and the drive for the pump will split out. There is only 1 company that will rebuild the torque plate if it goes out and the clutches for the drives are hard to come by. There's is 2 company's that will make them for. The chains in the drive boxes need constant adjustment and if anything in your drive box's fail it contaminates your whole hydraulic system. Loved my machine but it got to the point that is was not worth fixing once the hydraulic drive went out
I thought I had heard you say in the beginning that you purchased the maintenance and shop manuals... If having trouble or questions I would have referenced them? Lol. I also wing it till I am stumped. I also do not spend nothing or additional labor until I know it will run. No use wasting money uf the motor us shot unless you were fully committed to repairing no matter what... Just a few observations. Good luck.
Update please
Thats the return line to the tank for the fuel.
That makes sense, thank you!
This looks like it would quickly turn into the "Cursing in the Driveway with Ryan Show"
you need a glow plug switch you hold on for ten seconds there might be one around that cab that`s a choke not a shut off it will assist in starting but you need to preheat your glow plugs first ,that will never start in winter weather with out the glowplug preheat system
Gotta love the Ventrac.
Came in clutch!
Brad, you could save yourself some time time by buying a can of Kroil to spray down all those sticking pieces of metal. I've been using it for over 30 years and I can't recall a time it failed to free up what I sprayed it on (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer).
Just picked up a can on Amazon based on your comment, much appreciated!
Great job 😊😊😊😊😊
You definitely got a good deal. Just hope it has some life left in it 👍🏼
I hope so too!
I thought Brad was going to make a joke when unloading by pulling on the rope then cutting to the skid steer rolling down the ramp.
LOLOL Missed opportunity!
I got carpel tunnel just watching this 😂
YESS GREAT CONTENT.
Thank you!
0:35 “remarkable good shape” 🤣😂😅 you got a museum piece there….
A museum piece in good shape!😂
I have a 440 and those are really good units.
Glad to hear, thanks for watching!
Anti-seize is your friend
I'll pick some up!
I always date and put the hours on the filters when I change them.
That fuel line is a return line. It's already been filtered. That machine has the look of a cheapened Melroe Bobcat 500 right down to the drive belt and variable pulley system. It might be the same type clutch setup in the drive system behind the plates behind the wheels.
Thank you for the info!!!
I hope you get it going bud.
Hey man! Thanks so much for the sale and holding it for me! Very good to see you here :D
@@CopperCreekCutsyes sir. Man this is inspirational. Love the channel
use a proper locking hitch to pull, that connection can slide off under tension and hurt someone or damage your property.
Thanks for the tip!
Great job
Thank you!
I got pretty much exact same unit with an engine transplant.... maybe months newer since it was sold under brand of CASE. I have some manuals if it helps you.
Keep me in the loop
Will do!
Most NAPAs make hydraulic hoses while you wait and are reasonably priced. Some Oreillys do, but they aren't as cheap. Is also use the local hydraulic shop for my mini ex and skid steer cylinders and hoses if they're closer to the job.
I might check with NAPA next time, thanks for the tip!
The oil filter much have been factory. I was waiting for you to get the big screwdriver out!
It was next before I decided to just take the housing off :D
If you have stubborn gunk that just doesn't want to come out use Naphtha. That stuff dissolves anything. Just do it outside, cause it also dissolves lungs. I swear by the stuff. I use it to clean my chains, i've dunked entire engine parts in it. Just shake it a couple of times every half an hour for two hours and it comes out clean.
Sounds terrifying! :D
The pipe coming from top of injectors is the return line and thats not filtered it goes direct to tank
Much appreciated, thank you!
I am working on the gas version of this and have addressed many of the same problems you are acquiring now, so if you need help, I may know answers from my own experience.Steve
Thank you kindly!!
2nd line is the return fuel line to bleed off pressure
Thank you!
Next time put oil around those O-Rings
Will do, thanks!
@@CopperCreekCuts OCD sorry🤣
@@Zanderthelab LOL no need to apologize, I appreciate the feedback. Good reminder for me for next time!
@@CopperCreekCuts lubing it helps it create a better seal. 👍🏻
Don't know if anyone has said it but the line on top of the injections rail is a return line
Thank you!
"l love it when a plan comes together"
I don't know the value of these things, but 1800 bucks sounds a little much.
I've been looking at skid steers for several years on Facebook marketplace and IronPlanet auctions. This is the first one I have seen this cheap with a chance of running. Your area may be different.
Just sold my 1989 for $10k CAD these things hold value if you have a working one , if you can get it working for less than 5k then that’s a steal my friend
Did you get rid of this skid steer or did you finish fixing it I just found your site I find it very interesting that on the side of your skid steer is a block heater
May need just need new cord. Ohm at end cord if no good. They just screw in side engine very easy to do. Almost look like heating element in hot water tank. U need them for very cold days. Might be tight fit replacement but extremely easy to do.
Thanks for the tip! I may remove it and see if I can break it down and repair!
@@CopperCreekCuts not expensive part.
It's a Fuel return. The tanks are likely Tide together.
Thank you!