Thank you so much!!! This fix my problem, I called Maytag and they wanted 100 dollars just for the repair guy to come to my home. It's NO longer squeaking, and no more UL codes.
That's not a bad price for a house call. In 1994, I worked for the MAYTAG factory out of Farmindale, N.Y. - servicing upper east side of manhattan, back then the charge was $85.00. A $15.00 increase for a visit in 22 years is so minimal it's almost unbelievable that t's only $100 in 2016. But then again, Maytag is no longer Maytag.
Just leaving a comment here to say your fix was bang-on and the wife is no longer bugging me to call the repair guy. You saved me money and nagging, so thanks to you for posting this.
This was exactly the issue. Ours had started erroring out occasionally until tonight when it was every load. I was about to put it to the road and now I can get by for a while longer with my washer. Thank you.
Thank you for your video. We hast just ordered a new washing machine, but upon viewing the video-I tightened the bolt. We now are cancelling the order. My wife is thrilled.
Hell yeah bro, 4 years later and you're still a hero!!! 🤣 I think the locktite comment is good too cause I bought mine used and wouldn't ya know it almost right after the 3 month warranty runs out that started. It was super loose so if it fixes it I'll do the locktite. Either way thank you a million man.
Thank you so much ! Mine had some code . Your video helped me out no more UL! Also had small leak out bottom after tighten it stopped too! Was ready to buy new washer. Maytag appliances are not made well.
EXCELLENT! Thank you so much... saved a lot of headaches and a service call, and probably $150-$200.. easy easy. Just tilted the machine enough to put on blocks and get an arm and an allen wrench under there. 1/4" allen. The nut was very loose, about 15-20 turns! Washer works perfectly and is quieter now.
I just tip mine sideways and checked and I believe I spun the bowl bolt at least one quarter inch in inward by hand and then I put a few more turns on it with the Allen wrench I'm running a load of laundry now to test it but I can already tell the things are working out I feel like PayPaling you like 10 bucks but I had to zero out my PayPal balance to set up an external account because eBay changed their policy blah blah blah anyway thanks again man I think you have saved the day
Thank you! I wish I would have seen this video first! After replacing suspension rods myself it was still giving me the UL code. I saw your video tried it and it worked! Thank you for sharing this with us! 💜🧡
This was exactly my issue! the UL code kept coming up more and more, and I checked the bolt, and it was so loose I could tighten it by hand. Tightened it up and it is great now!
ANYONE WATCHING THIS VIDEO: THERE ARE ALOT OF VIDEOS OUT THERE THAT TELL YOU TO JUST TIGHTEN THE NUT. THAT IS ONLY HALF OF THE PROBLEM!!! THE MACHINE WILL WORK FOR A COUPLE LOADS THEN THE FAULT WILL REAPPEAR BECAUSE THE NUT LOOSENED UP AGAIN. TO FIX THIS ADD BLUE THREAD LOCKER TO THE THREADS THEN TIGHTEN THE BOLT AND WAIT 24 HOURS BEFORE RUNNING THE MACHINE!!!!
YES BUT YOU HAFF TO MAIK SURE THE THREADDS ARE DRY FIRST!!!!!!!! IF NOT IT WILL FLING BLUE DOTS ALL OVER YOUR FLOOR!!!!!! TO FIX THIS PUT THE PART IN THE DRYING MACHINE FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE APPLYING BLUE LOCTITE!!!!!!!
This was the right answer for Memorial Day. I scooted the washer out by six inches and tilted it back by 45 degrees and blocked it. It was the allen screw that was loose and now it is in balance again.
Thank you, worked like a charm! I really hate this washer because of all the RFI (radio frequency interference) it produces (I'm an amateur radio operator) but my wife loves it so she's happy now. I really prefer the older mechanical transmission machines :-)
thank you so much it worked like a charm, I am single and work part-time so that just save me a huge Bill thank you thank you thank you... and I did it by myself... Maria
Apply some BLUE "LOCKTITE" on the threads prior to torquing the allen head bolt to prevent this from happening again. There are some instances where the shaft has a significant amount of build up, preventing he basket from lifting up on the shaft which can also cause the UL/OL fault code to throw. But in most cases it is due to the allen head bolt being loose. If the hub drops down due to that retainer bolt being loose, the R.P.S. can not sense the position of the hub and interprets that as being unbalanced where as if it's the shaft that is preventing the tub from lifting it will throw a code of OL ( Over load) thinking the load is too heavy for the basket to lift. Just my experience.
I’ve got a Bravos XL MCT that I’ve replaced the tub bearings, suspension rods, and the RPS. It’s still throwing the UL code at the last spin. The tub bangs around then UL is displayed. I’m thinking it is my worn feet on the bottom allowing the machine to rock when the spin cycle starts. Still troubleshooting.
Diesel Power... the only thing I have not changed is the rotor and circuit card. Funny thing is it stopped working first on heavy duty. Then we switched it to bulky and it worked for a while there before ULing. Then on normal. Now we’re down to rapid wash. I’ll never buy another Maytag. That’s for sure.
I performed the task as outlined and tightened it twice thinking the first time wasn't sufficient as the code did not disappear; 2nd time I tightened it again another 1/2 to 3/4 turn not wanting to over tighten it and then strip the part, but it did not fix the UL code for my 400 Bravos series. Any suggestions as to what's next would be appreciated if any.
Quaker City Appliance Repair is the local Maytag subcontractor for warranty & service plans. Their tech came out on 5/23 told me my washer bearing had broken and cost was over the limit of my plan -(not true -REPAIR PLUS 1 covers repair plus an additional year warranty.) He had to get authorization and order parts before this could be fixed. Got Authorization on 5/27 then ordered parts which finally came in on 6/3.They were supposed to finally come on 6/9/16 to fix my washer. But the parts that were ordered did not include the bearing kit -7 other parts including a rotor, RPS, 2 pumps, etc. were charged to my contract so I requested the old ones to be sure these were used on my job. Quaker City called my husband said they refused to show what parts were to be used and would not do the repair- told my husband to GO TO HELL! It seems they have something to hide or they would not be upset by showing what they are actually replacing. Do not let Quaker City do your repairs -tell Maytag you want a different service provider.
IF YOU ARE FROM LUBBOCK I AM A SERVICE TECH I WORK FOR MYSELF AND KNOW ALL ABOUT BRAVOS MAYTAGS AND CAN FIX BEARING AND SEAL ANYTHING BUT I DONT DEAL WITH WARRANTY S
Have the same one and this is pisses me Off. Never again will I get a Maytag anything! Too many people have this same problem and everyone is surprised there is. I class action law suit
This error code came on during the rinse cycle. I now have all the towels out of the washer (yes, they're dripping with water) BUT there is still water in the washer!!! I'm not sure my mother nor I could flip this washer on its side to fix this. Any suggestions? Thanks! Donna
Thanks all! It has been a while since I have been on here lol. Yeah I discovered this problem when I had it turned over. Just left and tighten but I have done a lot to this washer since I posted this. Drain pump, Bearings even had a hose burst on the soap feed area under the lid. Loctite is a must for that bolt I am talking about otherwise it will just keep coming loose. Mine runs well now but I admit this washer has a lot of flaws...good luck!
What is Loctite? We're just two women trying to fix this UL error code. (Daddy passed away a couple of months ago and now it seems everything is falling apart!!!) Thanks for your help!! Donna
I wish I saw this before I slammed it against the wall a whole bunch. Unless my wife sees this and I can’t fix it.. then all that banging and clanging she probably heard was the neighbor fixing his cae
THIS!!!!! I was suffering from that dreaded UL code on my Maytag Bravos XL, too. I researched and was told that if must be the suspension rods. My appliance repairman agreed. So, I purchased them and paid for him to install them. The problem got worse. It was so bad that it would go unbalanced even if the basket was completely empty. My repairman was beginning to talk about replacing the drive motor and saying it could get expensive. Thank God I found this video. I sent it to him and he said he would come out and try it. Once we laid the washer on the side and he inserted the allen wrench, he immediately said "Yes, this is VERY loose". He tightened, and it's been working like new ever since. Thank you so much for providing this solution. It really worked.
Thank you very much for the repair information. It saved us from an expensive repair call, and our washer now works like new! In your video you disconnected all 3 hoses and laid the washer on it's side which requires more work and time. My guess is that you did this to show what you were doing in an easier to see format for the viewers. What I did was to just lift the front of the washer about 4 inches and slide a block of wood under the front of the machine to hold it up. I than put my 2 arms under the washer and used one hand to tighten the hex screw with an allen wrench, while using my other hand to hold the round drum, no need to disconnect any hoses or move the machine. The whole repair took less than 10 minutes. Thanks for making my wife very happy!
Thank you very much for this video. A 5-minute fix that saved me a lot of headaches. That being said, I am very disappointed with the Maytag Bravo washer. I purchased it in 2011 and already had to replace the bearing shaft twice, the tub springs once, and again 2 years after my last replacement, the washer sounds like a turbine engine when it spins. Unfortunately, nothing related to Whirlpool will enter my house ever again.
The bolt was loose. Thanks hopefully it fixes the problem. Instead of disconnecting everything I did like one comment and tipped it back and put a board under it then had someone hold the drum up top while I tightened the bolt. Great finds like these save people tons of time and money keep up the good work!
I’ve been doing this for months now, tightening the bolt Anyone know of a permanent fix for this? About to craigslist this thing....can’t keep doing this over and over again. Has to be a permanent fix
I tightened it up and it was loose, now it's spinning a lot better but just when you think it'll be ok it'll go to UL... SO, in addition to, it needs something else done also..there has/is some grinding noise going on but I don't know the next best move
When I followed your procedure I found the aforementioned allen head bolt tight already. I did try to tighten it more but all that happened was it kept turning (spinning) the drum? In other words, the plastic disc would just continue to spin. I held this plastic disc from spinning by my hand and tried to tighten the bolt some more but it was as tight as it would get. We will now run the washer going forward and see if the 'UL' code continues to show up again. If it doesn't...swell. If it does, we'll revisit your site again and ask for additional help. Thanks for you assistance. Gene & Angie
This fixed it for me! I was getting the UL code even when running it empty. There was also a grinding noise which went away after tightening this. It was extremely loose, about to fall off. It's possible to do this by having someone lean it to the side.
I am dealing with this problem now. replaced the shaft/bearing with the kit that is advertised. that took care of the jet engine sound (lots of corrosion on the shaft) but then started getting UL code. After that chased down 4 new suspension rods and installed, but still having UL errors. Am not thinking i should change the RPS. The issue identified here in this video does not seem to be the case, all is nice and tight. Any added thoughts would be appreciated.
If you do this fix and to prevent it from happening again, take the center nut all the way out and apply loctite to the hole where the nut goes in and then tighten
It fixed my problem, but mine keeps coming loose like once or twice a month. I tighten the hell out of it and it still loosens up after awhile. I was thinking of loctite the bolt. But I'm not sure what will happen if I remove that bolt to put loctite on it. I don't want the whole thing to fall apart. Lol. Any suggestions?
Some may have asked this before, but how did you safely put that washer on its side? I will hope that this is the case with my Maytag Bravos with a see-thru lid.
I did this for video purpose you can also just prop it up with a piece of 4x4 wood or something larger and tighten from there. Having another person hold it up is a plus. Good luck.
Mine had this problem. I did pull the drum, It was really stuck. took 100 5lb sledge hammer blows from my wife while i held the basket up. I would have quit, but every time I looked it had moved from the previous check. Finally it came off, I cleaned it up with sandpaper and reassembled it. It worked perfectly-For three loads! then started ULing again. The basket is still free to move up and down on the shaft, so now I've looked at this as the solution. The bottom part is not loose, so I'm still looking for another solution.
Thank you so much!!! This fix my problem, I called Maytag and they wanted 100 dollars just for the repair guy to come to my home. It's NO longer squeaking, and no more UL codes.
That's not a bad price for a house call. In 1994, I worked for the MAYTAG factory out of Farmindale, N.Y. - servicing upper east side of manhattan, back then the charge was $85.00. A $15.00 increase for a visit in 22 years is so minimal it's almost unbelievable that t's only $100 in 2016. But then again, Maytag is no longer Maytag.
Just leaving a comment here to say your fix was bang-on and the wife is no longer bugging me to call the repair guy. You saved me money and nagging, so thanks to you for posting this.
This was exactly the issue. Ours had started erroring out occasionally until tonight when it was every load. I was about to put it to the road and now I can get by for a while longer with my washer. Thank you.
Thank you for your video. We hast just ordered a new washing machine, but upon viewing the video-I tightened the bolt. We now are cancelling the order. My wife is thrilled.
Very cool!
Hell yeah bro, 4 years later and you're still a hero!!! 🤣 I think the locktite comment is good too cause I bought mine used and wouldn't ya know it almost right after the 3 month warranty runs out that started. It was super loose so if it fixes it I'll do the locktite. Either way thank you a million man.
Thank you so much ! Mine had some code . Your video helped me out no more UL! Also had small leak out bottom after tighten it stopped too! Was ready to buy new washer. Maytag appliances are not made well.
EXCELLENT! Thank you so much... saved a lot of headaches and a service call, and probably $150-$200.. easy easy. Just tilted the machine enough to put on blocks and get an arm and an allen wrench under there. 1/4" allen. The nut was very loose, about 15-20 turns! Washer works perfectly and is quieter now.
I just tip mine sideways and checked and I believe I spun the bowl bolt at least one quarter inch in inward by hand and then I put a few more turns on it with the Allen wrench I'm running a load of laundry now to test it but I can already tell the things are working out I feel like PayPaling you like 10 bucks but I had to zero out my PayPal balance to set up an external account because eBay changed their policy blah blah blah anyway thanks again man I think you have saved the day
Great tip! Worked like a charm. I couldn't believe how loose it was.
Thank You SO MUCH!!! Another grateful viewer whose budget really could not afford another hit at this point in time.
Thank you! I wish I would have seen this video first! After replacing suspension rods myself it was still giving me the UL code. I saw your video tried it and it worked! Thank you for sharing this with us! 💜🧡
This was exactly my issue! the UL code kept coming up more and more, and I checked the bolt, and it was so loose I could tighten it by hand. Tightened it up and it is great now!
ANYONE WATCHING THIS VIDEO: THERE ARE ALOT OF VIDEOS OUT THERE THAT TELL YOU TO JUST TIGHTEN THE NUT. THAT IS ONLY HALF OF THE PROBLEM!!! THE MACHINE WILL WORK FOR A COUPLE LOADS THEN THE FAULT WILL REAPPEAR BECAUSE THE NUT LOOSENED UP AGAIN. TO FIX THIS ADD BLUE THREAD LOCKER TO THE THREADS THEN TIGHTEN THE BOLT AND WAIT 24 HOURS BEFORE RUNNING THE MACHINE!!!!
YES BUT YOU HAFF TO MAIK SURE THE THREADDS ARE DRY FIRST!!!!!!!! IF NOT IT WILL FLING BLUE DOTS ALL OVER YOUR FLOOR!!!!!! TO FIX THIS PUT THE PART IN THE DRYING MACHINE FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE APPLYING BLUE LOCTITE!!!!!!!
OMG, I just tired this and it worked! I can't thank you enough. Life saver as well as a money saver! THANK YOU
This was the right answer for Memorial Day. I scooted the washer out by six inches and tilted it back by 45 degrees and blocked it. It was the allen screw that was loose and now it is in balance again.
Thank you, worked like a charm!
I really hate this washer because of all the RFI (radio frequency interference) it produces (I'm an amateur radio operator) but my wife loves it so she's happy now.
I really prefer the older mechanical transmission machines :-)
thank you so much it worked like a charm, I am single and work part-time so that just save me a huge Bill thank you thank you thank you... and I did it by myself...
Maria
YAAAAAA, That did it! I was ready to replace the main shaft/bearing kit again or buy a new washer. THANK YOU for posting this.
Not all hero’s wear capes 🤙🏽
Thankfully you saved us an expensive service call! Thank you so much!
Apply some BLUE "LOCKTITE" on the threads prior to torquing the allen head bolt to prevent this from happening again. There are some instances where the shaft has a significant amount of build up, preventing he basket from lifting up on the shaft which can also cause the UL/OL fault code to throw. But in most cases it is due to the allen head bolt being loose. If the hub drops down due to that retainer bolt being loose, the R.P.S. can not sense the position of the hub and interprets that as being unbalanced where as if it's the shaft that is preventing the tub from lifting it will throw a code of OL ( Over load) thinking the load is too heavy for the basket to lift. Just my experience.
wow... pulled it out propped it up, removed the flywheel, cleaned ,put it back on and damn good to go.
Worked for me also! Bravos Quiet Series 300 (MVWB450). Was constantly giving uL code. Thanks!
Bravos 580, Same issue.... SAME RESOLUTION!!!! YAYYY!!!!!
Thank you. I did what you said, works fine now
Thanks. Fixed our problem. Maytag Quiet Series 300. MVWB700VQ.
This is exactly my problem
Thanks you for this help
Thank you for this! Saved me a repairman visit ☺
UL code on- found the same bolt loose, just tightened it and hoping for good results.
thank you awesome fix the bottom of mine is reccessed unlike yours and it still fixed it.my wife n i subbed and liked 👍
this helped us for sure, thanks for this!!!!
Looks like this did the trick for my unit also. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the fix tip, it repaired my unit.
Thanks got my friends washer that wasn't spinning to work again.
I’ve got a Bravos XL MCT that I’ve replaced the tub bearings, suspension rods, and the RPS. It’s still throwing the UL code at the last spin. The tub bangs around then UL is displayed. I’m thinking it is my worn feet on the bottom allowing the machine to rock when the spin cycle starts. Still troubleshooting.
Yeah pretty much changed everything out since this video.
Diesel Power... the only thing I have not changed is the rotor and circuit card. Funny thing is it stopped working first on heavy duty. Then we switched it to bulky and it worked for a while there before ULing. Then on normal. Now we’re down to rapid wash. I’ll never buy another Maytag. That’s for sure.
I performed the task as outlined and tightened it twice thinking the first time wasn't sufficient as the code did not disappear; 2nd time I tightened it again another 1/2 to 3/4 turn not wanting to over tighten it and then strip the part, but it did not fix the UL code for my 400 Bravos series. Any suggestions as to what's next would be appreciated if any.
Thanks Diesel! Worked perfectly.
Dude! YOU DA MAN!!! Appreciate it!
Hoping this fixes our UL issue too.
Yep! That was my problem also!
Dude this fixed the problem - thanks.
Quaker City Appliance Repair is the local Maytag subcontractor for
warranty & service plans. Their tech came out on 5/23 told me my
washer bearing had broken and cost was over the limit of my plan -(not
true -REPAIR PLUS 1 covers repair plus an additional year warranty.) He
had to get authorization and order parts before this could be fixed. Got
Authorization on 5/27 then ordered parts which finally came in on
6/3.They were supposed to finally come on 6/9/16 to fix my washer. But
the parts that were ordered did not include the bearing kit -7 other
parts including a rotor, RPS, 2 pumps, etc. were charged to my contract
so I requested the old ones to be sure these were used on my job. Quaker
City called my husband said they refused to show what parts were to be
used and would not do the repair- told my husband to GO TO HELL! It
seems they have something to hide or they would not be upset by showing
what they are actually replacing.
Do not let Quaker City do your repairs -tell Maytag you want a different service provider.
IF YOU ARE FROM LUBBOCK I AM A SERVICE TECH I WORK FOR MYSELF AND KNOW ALL ABOUT BRAVOS MAYTAGS AND CAN FIX BEARING AND SEAL ANYTHING BUT I DONT DEAL WITH WARRANTY S
Have the same one and this is pisses me
Off. Never again will I get a Maytag anything! Too many people have this same problem and everyone is surprised there is. I class action law suit
Wow - law suit? For a two minute fix? (shaking head)
This error code came on during the rinse cycle. I now have all the towels out of the washer (yes, they're dripping with water) BUT there is still water in the washer!!!
I'm not sure my mother nor I could flip this washer on its side to fix this. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Donna
Just tip up and see if the bolt is loose. You could have a different issue drain pump etc.
Thanks all! It has been a while since I have been on here lol. Yeah I discovered this problem when I had it turned over. Just left and tighten but I have done a lot to this washer since I posted this. Drain pump, Bearings even had a hose burst on the soap feed area under the lid. Loctite is a must for that bolt I am talking about otherwise it will just keep coming loose. Mine runs well now but I admit this washer has a lot of flaws...good luck!
What is Loctite? We're just two women trying to fix this UL error code. (Daddy passed away a couple of months ago and now it seems everything is falling apart!!!) Thanks for your help!! Donna
It is a adhesive that will keep the bolt from coming loose again. Blue loctite is what I used. Good luck and sorry about your dad.
Thank you sir
Thanks buddy 👍 awesome!
Thanks! It fixed the problem.
Thanks! It worked! Thank you!
Love my bravo of 13 years. If this works I will cancel replacement front load washer I just purchased being delivered this week.
Bolt was tight however there were socks there I removed-hope this fixes the UL problem.
This worked!!!🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! Problem solved!
Thanks for posting this!!
Very cool thanks!
How loose was it? When I checked mine it was still tight.
You will notice it is real loose.
I wish I saw this before I slammed it against the wall a whole bunch. Unless my wife sees this and I can’t fix it.. then all that banging and clanging she probably heard was the neighbor fixing his cae
Why not just tilt it back? Getting paid by the hour?!!! A little blue Loctite on the bolt will prevent recurrence.
I just like the extra work lol. Easier to see plus at the time I did not know that was it.
thanks!
THIS!!!!! I was suffering from that dreaded UL code on my Maytag Bravos XL, too. I researched and was told that if must be the suspension rods. My appliance repairman agreed. So, I purchased them and paid for him to install them. The problem got worse. It was so bad that it would go unbalanced even if the basket was completely empty. My repairman was beginning to talk about replacing the drive motor and saying it could get expensive. Thank God I found this video. I sent it to him and he said he would come out and try it. Once we laid the washer on the side and he inserted the allen wrench, he immediately said "Yes, this is VERY loose". He tightened, and it's been working like new ever since.
Thank you so much for providing this solution. It really worked.
Thank you very much for the repair information. It saved us from an expensive repair call, and our washer now works like new!
In your video you disconnected all 3 hoses and laid the washer on it's side which requires more work and time. My guess is that you did this to show what you were doing in an easier to see format for the viewers.
What I did was to just lift the front of the washer about 4 inches and slide a block of wood under the front of the machine to hold it up. I than put my 2 arms under the washer and used one hand to tighten the hex screw with an allen wrench, while using my other hand to hold the round drum, no need to disconnect any hoses or move the machine. The whole repair took less than 10 minutes.
Thanks for making my wife very happy!
Yeah discovered it while it was down. Thanks for the response!
Great and easy fix! I didn't even flip the washer. Just propped it up 5 inches, reached under and re-tightened the bolt!
Thank you very much for this video. A 5-minute fix that saved me a lot of headaches. That being said, I am very disappointed with the Maytag Bravo washer. I purchased it in 2011 and already had to replace the bearing shaft twice, the tub springs once, and again 2 years after my last replacement, the washer sounds like a turbine engine when it spins. Unfortunately, nothing related to Whirlpool will enter my house ever again.
Hello, I'm having the same issue with my washer. I'm debating on having it repaired or buying a new one.
@@MrJAZZJEFF1999 Well mine is still hanging on. Having to replace a part here and there but still going for now.
Awesome! This was the same problem with mine. Was able to tilt it back enough to get my arm under it and tighten the bolt. Thanks!!!
So grateful for this video. My husband thought i was a genius. lol Then told him about this video. Tysm
You are a genius
Thx so much! This helped til repairman came back and fixed it correctly!
Good deal!
The bolt was loose. Thanks hopefully it fixes the problem. Instead of disconnecting everything I did like one comment and tipped it back and put a board under it then had someone hold the drum up top while I tightened the bolt. Great finds like these save people tons of time and money keep up the good work!
I’ve been doing this for months now, tightening the bolt Anyone know of a permanent fix for this? About to craigslist this thing....can’t keep doing this over and over again. Has to be a permanent fix
Loctite
Thanks so much I think you just helped me to fix my problem your video is much appreciated
I tightened it up and it was loose, now it's spinning a lot better but just when you think it'll be ok it'll go to UL... SO, in addition to, it needs something else done also..there has/is some grinding noise going on but I don't know the next best move
Worked! Thanks!
Worked for me tonight! Thanks!
Don't forget the blue lock-tight fluid to stop that from happening.
Thank you !!! It worked.
I have been fighting this thing for a week trying to redistribute the load. This was an instant fix! Thank you!!!
When I followed your procedure I found the aforementioned allen head bolt tight already. I did try to tighten it more but all that happened was it kept turning (spinning) the drum? In other words, the plastic disc would just continue to spin. I held this plastic disc from spinning by my hand and tried to tighten the bolt some more but it was as tight as it would get. We will now run the washer going forward and see if the 'UL' code continues to show up again. If it doesn't...swell. If it does, we'll revisit your site again and ask for additional help. Thanks for you assistance. Gene & Angie
Hello if it continues try the suspension spring kit. I had it happen 3 months ago with UL code. Thanks
This was such a stupid easy fix. Thank you!!!!
You got to love these machines!
Appreciate it
You the man !
This fixed it for me! I was getting the UL code even when running it empty. There was also a grinding noise which went away after tightening this. It was extremely loose, about to fall off. It's possible to do this by having someone lean it to the side.
Yeah just lean it back put something under to prop it.
Thank you!! That worked great!
Thanks guy
I am dealing with this problem now. replaced the shaft/bearing with the kit that is advertised. that took care of the jet engine sound (lots of corrosion on the shaft) but then started getting UL code. After that chased down 4 new suspension rods and installed, but still having UL errors. Am not thinking i should change the RPS. The issue identified here in this video does not seem to be the case, all is nice and tight. Any added thoughts would be appreciated.
Add another to the happy customer's list. Agree with bill curran that block under the front was enough to tighten it up.
Tightened the bolt about 3 weeks ago and so far it seems to have fixed it. No UL codes have came back. Thanks
If you do this fix and to prevent it from happening again, take the center nut all the way out and apply loctite to the hole where the nut goes in and then tighten
Thanks so much, saved me from buying a new washer.
Didn't even need to disconnect it, just tilted it back...
This solved my problem!! Took me 20 seconds and saved me hundreds of dollars!
Very helpful thanks
Thanks for the video!!! Yes, I been getting UL code on my Maytag Bravos.
Thank you thank you thank you, it did the trick.
Thank you and this worked for us too!
Thanks, that was exactly my problem!
I will try this. Thank you!
It fixed my problem, but mine keeps coming loose like once or twice a month. I tighten the hell out of it and it still loosens up after awhile. I was thinking of loctite the bolt. But I'm not sure what will happen if I remove that bolt to put loctite on it. I don't want the whole thing to fall apart. Lol. Any suggestions?
YES TAKE IT OFF AND USE THE BLUE STRENGTH LOCTITE NOT THE RED YOULL NEVER GET IT OFF TO SERVICE IT AGAIN
Some may have asked this before, but how did you safely put that washer on its side? I will hope that this is the case with my Maytag Bravos with a see-thru lid.
I did this for video purpose you can also just prop it up with a piece of 4x4 wood or something larger and tighten from there. Having another person hold it up is a plus. Good luck.
Perfect fix for my issue! Thanks so much for saving me the $$ to have this looked at by a pro.
Barry Polk .org no
Thank you so much for this tip! Saved pulling out the drum like I was getting ready to do!
Mine had this problem. I did pull the drum, It was really stuck. took 100 5lb sledge hammer blows from my wife while i held the basket up. I would have quit, but every time I looked it had moved from the previous check. Finally it came off, I cleaned it up with sandpaper and reassembled it. It worked perfectly-For three loads! then started ULing again. The basket is still free to move up and down on the shaft, so now I've looked at this as the solution. The bottom part is not loose, so I'm still looking for another solution.
BTW, just tipping the washer and propping it up with a bucket provides enough clearance to do this.
I've been fighting my piece of shit for 3 days thanks so much for the video RUclips does have so good stuff once in a while appreciate the video