I work in a machine shop. 3 threads will achieve about 90% of your mechanical advantage. Threading 2 deep will allow enough stretch in the the metal and fatigue will set in, causing the thread wall to fail and strip out. So the general rule is minimum of 3 threads to achieve 90% results, anything over is good. The other rule, from the old timers, is the width of the bolt is how deep you need to thread.
Dude your video was so helpful thanks. . I don't want to badmouth any of these other guys but some of these guys didn't know you could order different lug nuts they thought they had to order different spacers you are a genius or just really experienced thanks again
Good Video. Was just told I needed to get Adapters for my new vehicle for the rims I have and its $300 for the Adapters and $100 for installation. I didn't realize how simple it actually is when done correctly. Thank you.
Thank you. You should be able to get good adapters for under $200 easy. I’ve ran some under $100 even but prefer to stick with brands like supreme or spidertrax
@@FreedomCrawler I'm glad you mentioned Supreme. I had never heard of them before, but found them when looking for spacers for my car. It's just a 20mm hub centric spacer, but they look to be high quality pieces.
A few things: 1. Wheel chocks are a good idea as you stated, but generally speaking your vehicle will not roll forward if you are on a level surface. 2. Mating the lug nut up to the spacer does guarantee that the studs aren't too long, but you're not taking into account the thickness of the wheel. The lug nut will be seated farther away with the wheel on the vehicle. This is important because with the wheel on, you want to know that your studs/nuts will have enough threads to engage each other without popping a lug nut or more off your vehicle while driving. 3. Use blue Loctite. It will hold just fine. You don't want to use red because the last thing you want is to spin or break a stud if you ever try to remove the nut. 4. If you have to brace a hub, don't use metal against the wheel studs. It can screw up the threads and cause lug nuts to seize onto them when installing. Use either a piece of wood or a breaker bar with a plastic/rubber sheath on it.
Great step by step. I installed 2in to accommodate the long studs. Many mechanics suggested to not use loctite on studs just torque to specs as it mimics as if you are putting a wheel. Good job.
Nice video, first off to some of the comments, wheel adapters/spacers are perfectly safe provided they are installed correctly mostly for aesthetics and normal street driving, not meant for hardcore 4 wheeling IMO. Just a few things I would like to comment on: 1. I never use a locking compound on the lug nuts to the adapter and if I did I would use the Blue as it's not permanent but will prevent the lug from backing off on it's own, remember you will have to disassemble these for service to brakes and bearings, and believe me adding adapters/spacers will shorten brake pad life and wheel bearing life, but looks real cool. 2. With all hub centric wheels or spacers I smear some anti-seize compound on the brake drum to the spacer centering lip and also on the adapter to wheel centering lip keeps them from being fused together from corrosion and makes it much easier to remove the components without beating the crap out of them and myself when it comes time to do brakes and wheel bearings, and again I MUST empathize you will be doing brakes and bearing more often after installing these spacers. I never go any wider than 2" spacers, past that you going to get into trouble with fender clearance, lost performance while braking (increased scrub angle), reduced steering control and possibly wheel alignment issues. Adapters/Spacers are a great economical way to get the look you want but can cause some issues if you go too far, and the remedies will be far more expensive than expected, so use your own judgement, happy wrenching.
Not an off-roader but I am a slammed 370Z on custom offset wheels, I still need about 15mil in the front and like 2 inches in the back to get fender to lip. Thanks man, this helped me too. The lug seating was what I was researching. I thrash the S out of my Z, I want hub-centric and reinforced studs.
You can also stick a screwdriver in the brake cooling vents and rotate it until it hits the caliper so it won't move when you wrench them down. That's how I brake my axle nuts loose and work on my Jeep when no one's there to help.
Ran into the same socket problem with my WK2. Had a 21mm for my stock lugs thinking it was going to be the same for the spacer and wheels were already off.. OPPS! "Hay Honey.. can I borrow your car to run to Lowes?"
Also note that many rear drums have a star like space that fits over 1 lug nut , this must be taken off prior to seating your spacer on, if not your spacer on the back side will not be perfectly flat on the back and possibly the lugs will eventually come loose, this was not mentioned in the video, I know my rear drums have this spacer over one lug nut, I'm guessing it helps keep the drum flat and level, but it needs to come off . I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo... Thanks
You mentioned something about Chevy trucks. I am looking at buying this '84 square body Chevy p30 step van and the wheels are way inset from the side body like 5 inches or so in the front. So you were saying those old Chevy's would need a different spacer?
Thanks for the reply. Yes in regards to the front and rear widths being different. Generally with the chevy’s (I have a 79 c10 right now too) the front and rears have different track widths. I believe I remember it being to helping them on ranches so the tires didn’t go into the same tracks to help from getting stuck. Pretty sure the vans are similar. So if you want the widths to match you may get different size spacers for front and rear
Been watching and searching good advice and diy wheel spacing and this one is “definitely” experienced advice. Even those fundamentals were much appreciated. Newbie truck owner her. Definitely subscribing your channel. Thanks man! I two questions: 1. What would you prefer, same wheel spacers for the four wheels or two different pair for both front & rear? 2. What is ideal “mm” for a stock Ford Ranger 2019 wheels and tires. I already installed slim fenders which is supposedly after the wheel spacers or simultaneous. Lol
I’m really glad it helped: thanks for watching! I generally run the same size on all four corners unless there’s an offset that you’re wanting. For example if your vehicle comes factory with different width wheels in the front and the back and now you’re running the same width wheels all around. In that case running different sizes will give you back the factory look. Otherwise it’s always the same all on four corners. Not sure on the ranger, best way to determine is to measure out from the end of the wheel and look down the side of the vehicle then estimate where you want the wheel to stick out until. I would never recommend anything over 2” though. 1.5” is generally my happy place with moose vehicles. Just enough that you don’t have to trim the wheel studs and a good width
I wanted to add some extra spacers, but the problem is there isn’t enough thread to tie down the nut on the bolt. Roughly about 5 half turns. As a tester the nuts would sit flush tightly against the rim. Any solution?
Unfortunately i don’t. What I did was cut the caps from above, like what a Phillips head screw driver would go into. A plus sign essentially and then broke the caps off that way. I may be able to help more if you message me on Instagram. I can try and give you a visual
I agree but I always heat them up if I need to remove it and haven’t had issues. I agree that blue works as well, I just want it guaranteed they won’t move. Have used both colors though and no issues
Hi , good explanation body. Question ❓ I was hoping you to mantion the sizes of your spacers, if is 1.5" or 2" I nches! I got a 1999 4runner I was thinking 🤔 of 2" of the spacers. What you think .? Thanks!!
Good video! The only thing I would add is to wire brush the hubs before install the spacers. There is always some corrosion and you want to make sure the spacers are seated metal to metal, otherwise you might have to go back and retorque the spacers after driving a bit.
I have been looking all over for a "better" install video and you killed it. Answered all my questions in just 13 min! haha. I have just one remaining question. Do you know or not if the spacer lug nut in the description above will fit an 08 Tundra? Thanks in advance.
Great video, but my 2019 Gmc truck studs are longer front and back. I wondering if I should cut the stud. But if I do. Can I later on get those cut stud replaced if I decided to sale or go a different way.
My nuts get just 5 turns on the lugs., what’s much better install longer lugs ? Or longer nuts.? So what’s the name of that longer nuts. My is Tacoma 2015. Appreciate your help.
Get some extended thread (et) lug nuts and you’ll be good to go. It’ll bite great. You could install longer lugs but that will be a lot more work to solve the same problem
I put on my adaptor yesterday, but I now noticed that I didn’t torque any lugs and I have that space in the holes of the spacer where the lug is because it doesn’t reach the bottom. I’m running a 2in spacer on a 07 4Runner. I can’t find what extended lug nuts I need
Does it matter if i used my factory lug nuts on the first set of lug nuts to hold the wheel adapter(the new ones where to long for the axel) i used the new ones to hold the second set(to hold the wheel)
As long as you get a good bite on them and they don’t stick past the spacer and create a gap in between the spacer and the wheel then you should be good
Thanks for a great job explaining this!! - Putting on 2" spacers on my '03 H2 and have been watching a lot of videos of how to do it safely, yours is def the best and most in depth out there. I do have front wheel rub, but I am starting to worry now if I really should put them on or if I can live with the wheel-rub...... The H2 would look mean with them on though.... Thoughts?
I agree, it will definitely give it a more aggressive stance and most likely get rid of that wheel rub. Install a good set correctly, worst case you can take them off and sell them
I’ve had and tested as many of them as I can, from spydertrax, rough country, Amazon, eBay etc. most are all the exact same. Biggest issue I’ve seen with the cheapest ones are that I’ve seen tests that show while they say their tolerances are the same and the metal types / hard eases are the same that some of the cheapest ones actually aren’t. Again though, most are all the exact same. I generally shoot for the middle range in prices and stick with at least a branded model never below about $80. Makes me feel better anyways lol
I put 1.5” spacers on my mustangs rear wheels. When I went to take the wheel back off it was stuck. Had to bring it to a shop for them to bang my wheel off. Any idea why that happened? I loved the way they look but I have them off right now
Sometimes it can get water moisture and heat and just cause the metal to stick. Happens with wheels sticking to the axles. You can put a light layer of anti seize sandwiched between them and that will help in the future. Just do everything else in regards to loktite and torque specs per normal
Why not use the open end lugs to attach the spacer to the rotor then use the long lugs for the wheel? Then it won’t matter how long they are and there’s not cutting needed
Great video ! I'm about to install my wheel spacers on my 2008 chevy Silverado. I looked at the install directions & I cant find where it mentions the torque specs, where can I find the torque specs ? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you !
The front spacers I show where the lug nut only goes half on is about seven turns as well. Probably the exact same scenario. I’m sure it will “work” but I would highly recommend just buying a few of the correct lug nuts and doing it right.
another way to stop the rotor from turning when tightening the spacer is to stick a screwdriver into the rotor(down into the vents) the screwdriver will get jammed up against the caliper bracket and keep it from turning. doing it like in the video could potentially damage the threads on the new studs.
Hey I have a question. I just got bigger tires and a 3ich leveling kit in the front of my truck a 2016 Tacoma. I have a problem the tires is hitting the upper arm in the front when I do a sharp turn. Should I get spacers or lift the back if that will help?
I don’t think lifting the rear will help anything in the front. I just did the same lift on my 2019. 3” spacer up front and then 2” lift on the rear with a 1.5” wheel spacer. Are you running a spacer? If so sounds like that’s what you need
meaning, that dont have 4lo? or Yours trans engages park differently? My reference was base on 4wd knowledge of a 93 ranger and other older fords. the park engages a cog in teh trans, if toyota does it different my bad
My fault if that got misconstrued. I meant it as a compliment. As in we are all living in the present and you’re thinking is far more advanced. I’d never thought to do that.
I have looked at some spacer kits for my 2013 f150, some have (2) 1.50" and (2) 1.25". Is for the difference in the front and rear? Never done this before. I will be having it installed at a known shop but I am gathering info, thanks in advance
@@FreedomCrawler Thanks for the quick response. I'm thinking of doing this to my 2013 F150, I don't do any major off roading and I don't tow anything. Regular carb 4x4 V8, any suggestions?
In regards to spacers? Just buy a reputable brand and make sure you have them installed right and check them. Outside of that you should be good to go. Biggest problems come from bad installations and loose lugs
After I put the spacer on it was nice and tight to the hub. But when I went to put my tire in the spacer it left a gap because the centric hub on the spacer was hitting the back of the tire. I’ve had a tire fall off before and made a grinding noise before it fell off. I just took the spacers off today. Made a little grinding noise so I wasn’t going to risk it again.
Sounds like the hub centric ring had a different diameter than the inside of the hub for the wheels. I’ve seen that happen with spacers with the correct lug pattern but the incorrect hub size and when the wheels are not factory. For example if you get Chevy adapters and try and run them on Toyota’s or vice versa. Lug pattern may be the same but hub size isn’t always the same
I’ve used adapters from all over. I think these were supreme off amazon. My rule of thumb is to stay around $100+ for four. I’ve bought some for less to test them out and have used them but they make me nervous
This is a good and well explained video and I commend you for a job well done. I want your advice on installing wheel spacers on my 2004 Ford F350 SuperDuty PowerStroke Dually front wheels and I'm thinking of using the 2.50 inches. Do you think that will be okay for the truck considering it's huge size. Looking forward to hearing from you.
I’ve seen some of these used in the bigger trucks. Over 2” is pushing it in my opinion but I’ve seen people running 3” with no problems. Just get a reputable brand as your trucks got some weight to it, install them correctly and check them every now and then and you should be good to go.
Toyota and jeep both use hub centric. Depends on the model of what you’re putting them on. In regards to safe, install a quality brand correctly and it should be safe. Have been running spacers for 8 years on multiple rigs in everything from daily driving to hard offroad
The 1st spacer 15mm: the groove is very shallow that fits a thin nut. I have another hub spacer 18mm but has a thick groove for a thicker bolt, but it doesn’t have any studs. •So Option 1 get the Lug nuts with the extension for the 15mm spacer. •Or option 2 get new studs for the 18mm
I’ve had to trim studs in the past to lake it work. Not my favorite option but taking off a couple threads wasn’t an issue. I wouldn’t cut them in half or anything though lol
Freedom Crawler I have decided to just buy new hub spacers. Plan is for the right fitment •35mm for the front a total of -18 offset •43mm for the rear a total of -23 offset. Rear is ready for the cut with no issues, but guarantee there will be rubbing in the front with the steering.
Freedom Crawler Hello. I installed another brand but sent it back to seller as I noticed that the nuts on the front hub are catching just 50% thread onbtbe studs. Did you notice iit on this brand? Or they all seat well all the way on the studs? Thank you
You just use the same impact and remove them. Never had an issue removing them. Worst case you apply a little bit of heat but again, I’ve never had an issue breaking them free if needed. Luckily It’s not cement lol
I’ve trimmed them before and never had an issue. So long as you can get a solid bite of about 10 threads or more you should be good. Just make sure you install correctly and don’t trim too far or don’t leave enough for a good bite
I work in a machine shop. 3 threads will achieve about 90% of your mechanical advantage. Threading 2 deep will allow enough stretch in the the metal and fatigue will set in, causing the thread wall to fail and strip out. So the general rule is minimum of 3 threads to achieve 90% results, anything over is good. The other rule, from the old timers, is the width of the bolt is how deep you need to thread.
There you go then
Dude your video was so helpful thanks. . I don't want to badmouth any of these other guys but some of these guys didn't know you could order different lug nuts they thought they had to order different spacers you are a genius or just really experienced thanks again
lol, definitely not a genius but have had a lot of trial and error.
Thank you for reaching out
Good Video. Was just told I needed to get Adapters for my new vehicle for the rims I have and its $300 for the Adapters and $100 for installation. I didn't realize how simple it actually is when done correctly. Thank you.
Thank you. You should be able to get good adapters for under $200 easy. I’ve ran some under $100 even but prefer to stick with brands like supreme or spidertrax
@@FreedomCrawler good suggestion. Ok I will do so, thanks alot I appreciate it.
@@FreedomCrawler I'm glad you mentioned Supreme. I had never heard of them before, but found them when looking for spacers for my car. It's just a 20mm hub centric spacer, but they look to be high quality pieces.
A few things:
1. Wheel chocks are a good idea as you stated, but generally speaking your vehicle will not roll forward if you are on a level surface.
2. Mating the lug nut up to the spacer does guarantee that the studs aren't too long, but you're not taking into account the thickness of the wheel. The lug nut will be seated farther away with the wheel on the vehicle. This is important because with the wheel on, you want to know that your studs/nuts will have enough threads to engage each other without popping a lug nut or more off your vehicle while driving.
3. Use blue Loctite. It will hold just fine. You don't want to use red because the last thing you want is to spin or break a stud if you ever try to remove the nut.
4. If you have to brace a hub, don't use metal against the wheel studs. It can screw up the threads and cause lug nuts to seize onto them when installing. Use either a piece of wood or a breaker bar with a plastic/rubber sheath on it.
Great step by step. I installed 2in to accommodate the long studs. Many mechanics suggested to not use loctite on studs just torque to specs as it mimics as if you are putting a wheel. Good job.
Thank you, I agree with that also, do it mainly because I rarely remove them
Nice video, first off to some of the comments, wheel adapters/spacers are perfectly safe provided they are installed correctly mostly for aesthetics and normal street driving, not meant for hardcore 4 wheeling IMO.
Just a few things I would like to comment on:
1. I never use a locking compound on the lug nuts to the adapter and if I did I would use the Blue as it's not permanent but will prevent the lug from backing off on it's own, remember you will have to disassemble these for service to brakes and bearings, and believe me adding adapters/spacers will shorten brake pad life and wheel bearing life, but looks real cool.
2. With all hub centric wheels or spacers I smear some anti-seize compound on the brake drum to the spacer centering lip and also on the adapter to wheel centering lip keeps them from being fused together from corrosion and makes it much easier to remove the components without beating the crap out of them and myself when it comes time to do brakes and wheel bearings, and again I MUST empathize you will be doing brakes and bearing more often after installing these spacers.
I never go any wider than 2" spacers, past that you going to get into trouble with fender clearance, lost performance while braking (increased scrub angle), reduced steering control and possibly wheel alignment issues. Adapters/Spacers are a great economical way to get the look you want but can cause some issues if you go too far, and the remedies will be far more expensive than expected, so use your own judgement, happy wrenching.
^ Good stuff right there. Thanks for taking the time
Great info, I feel completely confident now to install mine following these guidelines!
Thank you, glad it helped. I just did another set this week actually. Probably on about a dozen now. Don’t skip steps and be smart. Easy mode lol
I'm spacing and just not telling anyone to many haters and commenters . Thanks
Lack of knowledge and inability to Install correctly leads to ignorance
Haha, closet spacer 😂
"Too many haters", not "to".
Good video dude. I’ve watched some on RUclips that people should never follow.
Nice
Thank you!
Lol had me 🤣 at "some people do this but fuck that" (paraphrasing) lmao! Gotta share in Arkansas bud.
I prefer a more direct unfiltered approach lol
Thank you for this brief tutorial video it's awesome and easy to understand
You’re welcome. Hoped it helped
Not an off-roader but I am a slammed 370Z on custom offset wheels, I still need about 15mil in the front and like 2 inches in the back to get fender to lip. Thanks man, this helped me too. The lug seating was what I was researching. I thrash the S out of my Z, I want hub-centric and reinforced studs.
I was also told to use anti-seize on the face and ring. So it doesn't weld it onto the rim.
Thanks for watching!
You can also stick a screwdriver in the brake cooling vents and rotate it until it hits the caliper so it won't move when you wrench them down. That's how I brake my axle nuts loose and work on my Jeep when no one's there to help.
^ exactly! That helps so much as well
Tank you for this great video, its very helpful!!
Great video. No other video I’ve watched has suggested the thread locker step.
I appreciate it. Trying to help anyone I can
Use the red.....not the blue
Now I have figured out where my vibration is coming from .
I hope it helped
Ran into the same socket problem with my WK2. Had a 21mm for my stock lugs thinking it was going to be the same for the spacer and wheels were already off.. OPPS! "Hay Honey.. can I borrow your car to run to Lowes?"
Lol I hate those part store runs
Yr fkn awesome brotha seriously you couldn’t said it better you explain yourself very well thank you I needed this so much
I really appreciate that a lot. Was really hoping to just help out anyone I could
It's 2am who else knows the struggle is real when deciding on spacers or no spacers?🗿
If you need them go for it. Easy
Me right now lmao
Yep lol
Thanks bro 💪🏾
Absolutely, glad it helped. Have a great week
Thanks for explaining how these adapters work, :)
Absolutely!
Very informative nice video brother
Love it. Speak the truth.
Thanks!
Awesome video, well explained. Thank you very much, good man!
Absolutely! Hope it helped
Thanks for this video man. Great video. I have to get spacers for my winter wheels. This helped me out a ton.
Really glad it helped out!
Nice, also have a 4runner! Looking into wheel spacers. Nice to see the difference afterwards, I wasn't sure if I should go for 1.5 or 2inch.
Well worth the addition
For holding the front as long as you have a 4x4 just put engage the 4WD so that the front diff will hold it for ya.
Exactly. That works great too
Looks better
I agree 100%
I put 2" spacers with my stock envoy denali rims makes a clean flush fitment.
Looks so much better for sure
clear explaining, thanks you
You’re welcome. I hope it helped
Also note that many rear drums have a star like space that fits over 1 lug nut , this must be taken off prior to seating your spacer on, if not your spacer on the back side will not be perfectly flat on the back and possibly the lugs will eventually come loose, this was not mentioned in the video, I know my rear drums have this spacer over one lug nut, I'm guessing it helps keep the drum flat and level, but it needs to come off . I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo... Thanks
Good point
Very informative, thank you!!
Absolutely, thanks for watching!
Informative, clear, and concise video Bro! Great job and now I am about to ride my car til the wheels fall off. Lol j/k
Much appreciated! Thank you.
Lol that’s good stuff
You mentioned something about Chevy trucks. I am looking at buying this '84 square body Chevy p30 step van and the wheels are way inset from the side body like 5 inches or so in the front. So you were saying those old Chevy's would need a different spacer?
Thanks for the reply. Yes in regards to the front and rear widths being different. Generally with the chevy’s (I have a 79 c10 right now too) the front and rears have different track widths. I believe I remember it being to helping them on ranches so the tires didn’t go into the same tracks to help from getting stuck. Pretty sure the vans are similar. So if you want the widths to match you may get different size spacers for front and rear
Put it in 4hi or 4low then you don't need to worry about the fronts spinning .no buddies needed . 17 4runner owner as well
Someone else mentioned that too and it was like a lightbulb went on for me. Brilliant, thank you as well. Smart thinking
Actually it will still spin. But it will spin like the tears without the e-brake on and turn in different directions
Looks good! Nice explanation on the et threads. I had to put them on all four wheels on My FJ and tundra.
A lot of people skip that step and it leads to confusion. Thanks for watching!
Jeep_ Noob
I finished my bumper and wench install last night when I get some time I will put together an email and shot some pics to you.
Thanks bro....really good video..
Absolutely, I’m glad it helped.
Good video dude.
Thank you, just want to help people out who are aren’t rightfully informed.
Been watching and searching good advice and diy wheel spacing and this one is “definitely” experienced advice. Even those fundamentals were much appreciated. Newbie truck owner her. Definitely subscribing your channel. Thanks man!
I two questions:
1. What would you prefer, same wheel spacers for the four wheels or two different pair for both front & rear?
2. What is ideal “mm” for a stock Ford Ranger 2019 wheels and tires. I already installed slim fenders which is supposedly after the wheel spacers or simultaneous. Lol
I’m really glad it helped: thanks for watching!
I generally run the same size on all four corners unless there’s an offset that you’re wanting. For example if your vehicle comes factory with different width wheels in the front and the back and now you’re running the same width wheels all around. In that case running different sizes will give you back the factory look. Otherwise it’s always the same all on four corners.
Not sure on the ranger, best way to determine is to measure out from the end of the wheel and look down the side of the vehicle then estimate where you want the wheel to stick out until. I would never recommend anything over 2” though. 1.5” is generally my happy place with moose vehicles. Just enough that you don’t have to trim the wheel studs and a good width
I wanted to add some extra spacers, but the problem is there isn’t enough thread to tie down the nut on the bolt. Roughly about 5 half turns. As a tester the nuts would sit flush tightly against the rim. Any solution?
Great info very detailed 👍
Thank you, hope it helped
Have yet to find a spacer video showing how well the front wheel clears while turning after adding the spacers.
Stock tire size? No issues at all unless you have a taller tire than stock. Then it barely rubs on random articulations but still perfectly fine
Hahaha. I should have waited for this video. I was too lazy and asked you in the first video
“Don’t fuck this up” best instructions
Sometimes you just have to be blunt
Do u have a video on how to actually trim the end caps off the longer/proper lug nuts? For us who need all the help we can get lol, thanks!
Unfortunately i don’t. What I did was cut the caps from above, like what a Phillips head screw driver would go into. A plus sign essentially and then broke the caps off that way. I may be able to help more if you message me on Instagram. I can try and give you a visual
I have 5x4.5 3.5” spacers that would fit your jeep haha talk about crazy stance
Yeah... I’m not about that life lol
good vid; though, wouldn't use red. In factm if you use red correctly, I've broken bolts before the locker releases. Use Blue.
I agree but I always heat them up if I need to remove it and haven’t had issues. I agree that blue works as well, I just want it guaranteed they won’t move. Have used both colors though and no issues
That's good to know... 👍👍👍
Thanks for reaching out. Hope it helped
Hi , good explanation body.
Question ❓
I was hoping you to mantion the sizes of your spacers, if is 1.5" or 2" I nches!
I got a 1999 4runner I was thinking 🤔 of 2" of the spacers.
What you think .?
Thanks!!
I run 1.5” on average. I’ve ran 2” on an Xj but will never run anything bigger
Good video! The only thing I would add is to wire brush the hubs before install the spacers. There is always some corrosion and you want to make sure the spacers are seated metal to metal, otherwise you might have to go back and retorque the spacers after driving a bit.
You should go back and retorque after 100-200 miles.
How long did they last without any damage to suspension or tire wear
What additional tire wear would they add? I’ve ran these on all my vehicles since 2013’ish including present. With no issues
I have been looking all over for a "better" install video and you killed it. Answered all my questions in just 13 min! haha. I have just one remaining question. Do you know or not if the spacer lug nut in the description above will fit an 08 Tundra? Thanks in advance.
It should but you will just need to confirm the thread pattern online
Great video, but my 2019 Gmc truck studs are longer front and back. I wondering if I should cut the stud. But if I do. Can I later on get those cut stud replaced if I decided to sale or go a different way.
Yes, you can replace the studs. Only trim as much as you need too though. That way you still have plenty
Thanks for a good video explaining install. Question, can I go over 100 mph on these? 14 Tundra with stock wheels.
People use them at the track so I would assume so if they are installed correctly and you needed to
My nuts get just 5 turns on the lugs., what’s much better install longer lugs ? Or longer nuts.? So what’s the name of that longer nuts. My is Tacoma 2015. Appreciate your help.
Get some extended thread (et) lug nuts and you’ll be good to go. It’ll bite great. You could install longer lugs but that will be a lot more work to solve the same problem
That Sailing Lavagabonde hat.
Love it! Back when their channel was awesome
I put on my adaptor yesterday, but I now noticed that I didn’t torque any lugs and I have that space in the holes of the spacer where the lug is because it doesn’t reach the bottom. I’m running a 2in spacer on a 07 4Runner. I can’t find what extended lug nuts I need
You will need to search for et lug nuts and then just find the thread pattern and porch that you need for your vehicle
Freedom Crawler thank you
Does it matter if i used my factory lug nuts on the first set of lug nuts to hold the wheel adapter(the new ones where to long for the axel) i used the new ones to hold the second set(to hold the wheel)
As long as you get a good bite on them and they don’t stick past the spacer and create a gap in between the spacer and the wheel then you should be good
Thanks for a great job explaining this!! - Putting on 2" spacers on my '03 H2 and have been watching a lot of videos of how to do it safely, yours is def the best and most in depth out there. I do have front wheel rub, but I am starting to worry now if I really should put them on or if I can live with the wheel-rub...... The H2 would look mean with them on though.... Thoughts?
I’m really glad it helps, definitely just want to share advice.
I agree, it will definitely give it a more aggressive stance and most likely get rid of that wheel rub. Install a good set correctly, worst case you can take them off and sell them
What could happen or what’s the issue with the eBay spacers?
I’ve had and tested as many of them as I can, from spydertrax, rough country, Amazon, eBay etc. most are all the exact same. Biggest issue I’ve seen with the cheapest ones are that I’ve seen tests that show while they say their tolerances are the same and the metal types / hard eases are the same that some of the cheapest ones actually aren’t. Again though, most are all the exact same. I generally shoot for the middle range in prices and stick with at least a branded model never below about $80. Makes me feel better anyways lol
Good idea to let the truck sit 24 hrs and let the lock tite set.
Agreed
I have a Ford kuga, I only want them on the back wheels, I was going to get 20-25mm, is it ok to have them on the rear only.... Thx from England.
Yes, you can run in the rear only
I put 1.5” spacers on my mustangs rear wheels. When I went to take the wheel back off it was stuck. Had to bring it to a shop for them to bang my wheel off. Any idea why that happened? I loved the way they look but I have them off right now
Sometimes it can get water moisture and heat and just cause the metal to stick. Happens with wheels sticking to the axles. You can put a light layer of anti seize sandwiched between them and that will help in the future. Just do everything else in regards to loktite and torque specs per normal
I have 2014 ford ranger 4x4 i need spacer how could i order this items
Check out there website, they’ll have what you need
best vidgaeo
Thank you!
do you know the length of the included lug nuts, im triing to work out if i have enough thread ,
I don’t. They are the smaller acorn nuts usually
@@FreedomCrawler its 8 turns for a 12 mm 1.5 got my answer cheers
Damn I was going to guess 7 turns. Glad you got it worked out.
Why not use the open end lugs to attach the spacer to the rotor then use the long lugs for the wheel? Then it won’t matter how long they are and there’s not cutting needed
That’s 100% what we use now and what I show in our more recent videos. Just couldn’t find a set locally at the time.
Thanks
Hope it helped!
Great video ! I'm about to install my wheel spacers on my 2008 chevy Silverado. I looked at the install directions & I cant find where it mentions the torque specs, where can I find the torque specs ? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you !
You should be able to find them online but I’ve found 80-100 is pretty standard with all vehicle. Can’t go wrong with that
How do you like only having them on the rear?
I run them front and back but have never had a problem with them on any rig
My lug nut from spacer to hub only got half of nut threaded, but it got 7 full turns. Do you think it's alright? 2 inch spacers.
Sounds like the exact scenario I talk about in this video
@@FreedomCrawler I wouldnt ask the question if the video answered it.
That’s fair and I apologize if my answer sounded blunt.
The front spacers I show where the lug nut only goes half on is about seven turns as well. Probably the exact same scenario. I’m sure it will “work” but I would highly recommend just buying a few of the correct lug nuts and doing it right.
another way to stop the rotor from turning when tightening the spacer is to stick a screwdriver into the rotor(down into the vents) the screwdriver will get jammed up against the caliper bracket and keep it from turning. doing it like in the video could potentially damage the threads on the new studs.
Yes, that works really well also
Hey I have a question. I just got bigger tires and a 3ich leveling kit in the front of my truck a 2016 Tacoma. I have a problem the tires is hitting the upper arm in the front when I do a sharp turn. Should I get spacers or lift the back if that will help?
I don’t think lifting the rear will help anything in the front. I just did the same lift on my 2019. 3” spacer up front and then 2” lift on the rear with a 1.5” wheel spacer. Are you running a spacer? If so sounds like that’s what you need
I’m not running a sparer, but thank you I will get some now thank you for responding it really help.
the gorilla lug nuts in ur link, are those the same size in the video or the shorter size so there's no cutting the caps?
Same size
Do you add the bigger lugs just for the front or all fours? 07 FJ
Just for the front. The rears are longer and good to go.
How did they end up proforming?
They worked great
Well explained & informative. "Not hub-centric" is called lug-centric.
Exactly. What Ken said ^
If you put it in 4lo, then when it isn park, all wheels are engaged and you dont need bricks..
We are all living in 2018 and you’re living in 3018. Thank you!
meaning, that dont have 4lo? or Yours trans engages park differently? My reference was base on 4wd knowledge of a 93 ranger and other older fords. the park engages a cog in teh trans, if toyota does it different my bad
My fault if that got misconstrued. I meant it as a compliment. As in we are all living in the present and you’re thinking is far more advanced. I’d never thought to do that.
I have looked at some spacer kits for my 2013 f150, some have (2) 1.50" and (2) 1.25". Is for the difference in the front and rear? Never done this before. I will be having it installed at a known shop but I am gathering info, thanks in advance
That’s correct. Some vehicles have a slightly different offset front and rear due to the solid rear axle. This helps keep it the same
@@FreedomCrawler Thanks for the quick response. I'm thinking of doing this to my 2013 F150, I don't do any major off roading and I don't tow anything. Regular carb 4x4 V8, any suggestions?
In regards to spacers? Just buy a reputable brand and make sure you have them installed right and check them. Outside of that you should be good to go. Biggest problems come from bad installations and loose lugs
Red loctite is your friend with spacers!!! Safety 1st!!!
I’m a huge fan of it
Its krazy yall say that when i bought my Bora spacers it says in CAPS they will void their warranty if you use amy loctite......
At 11:39 you say their would be a gap I know what you mean. What happens if I torch it all the way tight and eliminate the gap. Is that bad?
You referring to if you use the supplied light nuts and torque them down vs getting extended thread lug nuts?
After I put the spacer on it was nice and tight to the hub. But when I went to put my tire in the spacer it left a gap because the centric hub on the spacer was hitting the back of the tire. I’ve had a tire fall off before and made a grinding noise before it fell off. I just took the spacers off today. Made a little grinding noise so I wasn’t going to risk it again.
Sounds like the hub centric ring had a different diameter than the inside of the hub for the wheels. I’ve seen that happen with spacers with the correct lug pattern but the incorrect hub size and when the wheels are not factory. For example if you get Chevy adapters and try and run them on Toyota’s or vice versa. Lug pattern may be the same but hub size isn’t always the same
Where did you order the adapter
I’ve used adapters from all over. I think these were supreme off amazon. My rule of thumb is to stay around $100+ for four. I’ve bought some for less to test them out and have used them but they make me nervous
ridessignature@gmail.com
Do you know the standard torque specification for Ford pickup trucks ?
I usually torque all my vehicles to 100ftlbs as a rule of thumb. You’d have to look online to confirm your setup though
F150 is 150ft/lbs
Do you think 2 inch wheel spacers would be okay for a 06 Dodge Durango?
All depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. You have to just try them out with your setup
I am going to swap my five lug to a six lug on my 69' dodge d100 is this a good way make the conversion?
Yes, this will work for that.
thanks @@FreedomCrawler much appreciated
This is a good and well explained video and I commend you for a job well done. I want your advice on installing wheel spacers on my 2004 Ford F350 SuperDuty PowerStroke Dually front wheels and I'm thinking of using the 2.50 inches. Do you think that will be okay for the truck considering it's huge size. Looking forward to hearing from you.
I’ve seen some of these used in the bigger trucks. Over 2” is pushing it in my opinion but I’ve seen people running 3” with no problems. Just get a reputable brand as your trucks got some weight to it, install them correctly and check them every now and then and you should be good to go.
Where did you have your bro, please!
Can you tell me a good website?
Both off Amazon . Good to go
@@FreedomCrawler thank you bro
Greetings from Tahiti 🤙
99 suburbanK1500 does it have lip hub centric are they safe
Toyota and jeep both use hub centric. Depends on the model of what you’re putting them on. In regards to safe, install a quality brand correctly and it should be safe. Have been running spacers for 8 years on multiple rigs in everything from daily driving to hard offroad
SIZE OF SPACER IN THE VIDEO?
1.5”
What’s the name of the lug nuts with the extension?
Search for your lug but thread with an ET designation. That will give you the extended thread version that you need.
Freedom Crawler thanks for the quick reply. I will do some searching
The 1st spacer 15mm: the groove is very shallow that fits a thin nut.
I have another hub spacer 18mm but has a thick groove for a thicker bolt, but it doesn’t have any studs.
•So Option 1 get the Lug nuts with the extension for the 15mm spacer.
•Or option 2 get new studs for the 18mm
I’ve had to trim studs in the past to lake it work. Not my favorite option but taking off a couple threads wasn’t an issue. I wouldn’t cut them in half or anything though lol
Freedom Crawler I have decided to just buy new hub spacers. Plan is for the right fitment
•35mm for the front a total of -18 offset
•43mm for the rear a total of -23 offset.
Rear is ready for the cut with no issues, but guarantee there will be rubbing in the front with the steering.
I have 6 lug pattern on my f150 need to put 5 lug to Trow in a set Harley wheels any help be appreciated.
Should be able to search the lug patterns and find an adapter. Amazon or google should have you set. Thanks for reaching out
@@FreedomCrawler thanks for quick response
Did you install the 2 inch or 1.5 inch spacers?
1.5”
Looking to do this for my 4Runner, what year 4Runner are you doing this on?
This was on a 2017 but applies to all of them. Although i didn’t have any issues on my 3rd gen.
I fucking like you! Good job.
Lol thank you
Wht lugs did u use for front
Let me see if I can find them again. Basically same lug pattern but they sit deep. I got them at discount tire since I didn’t want to order them
Hi. What type of spacers you installed? Im interested.
I got these off amazon I believe but I’ve installed almost every type. They all seem about the same. Spydertrax, amazon brand, rough country, etc.
Freedom Crawler
Hello. I installed another brand but sent it back to seller as I noticed that the nuts on the front hub are catching just 50% thread onbtbe studs. Did you notice iit on this brand? Or they all seat well all the way on the studs? Thank you
Yes, I went through this in the video. You have to get extended thread lugs.
Good video but you didn't put any anti-seize on the front or back of the spacer.
Good call, I could probably do that in the future but have never had an issue with it for it to be a problem
If you cover the lug with red loctite, how do you replace the rotors when they need to be replaced?
You just use the same impact and remove them. Never had an issue removing them. Worst case you apply a little bit of heat but again, I’ve never had an issue breaking them free if needed. Luckily It’s not cement lol
Doesn’t factory wheels have pockets
Pockets?
Any thoughts on trimming the studs? I’m thinking about getting 1” spacers but have 1.5” studs
I’ve trimmed them before and never had an issue. So long as you can get a solid bite of about 10 threads or more you should be good. Just make sure you install correctly and don’t trim too far or don’t leave enough for a good bite
@@FreedomCrawler If you do the 2 inch spacers dont need trimmed right?