I agree that a tapered shaft has to help in terms of a pass thru and a pass thru is a great thing for sure. Years ago when the Grizzly heads first came out with the 2 blade bevel 3 to 1 ratio, I bought them and loved them. I never could afford the tapered shafts, just the way that it was. I still fletch my arrows, I like getting them the way i like them to be. Old Farts like me made most of our equipment from spine testers to fletching burners. I grew up not buying something that I could make or build myself. I have basically one fletching jig but it is a good one. I wish that fifty years ago we had RUclips videos like this one. You younger guys can get out there and stomp around, me, it is what it is so my hunts are close to the road on easy walking ground. Plus my bows have gone from 70 lbs down to 40 lbs now. I have a longbow and I have always loved the stick and string. Always wanted to make a good selfbow with sinew backing but never had the time or the place. You seem to be very good at bow making and I enjoy your videos. Keep at it and never slow down. shoot straight and may your arrows fly true
So I’ve been been watching your videos not gonna lie my favorite ones are the green tree to bow in 24 hours or less / Survival bow! I could watch endless videos from ya on that matter, thanks for the quality content bro i hope to take a class in the future if you offer them again
Amen about shot placement you can just about use a field tip if you get the right shot placement and the won't need to be a blood trail practic people practice it's a must for good clean kills I've always shot my bow at least a few arrows a day just out of habit even in the off season but I love archery and I don't want that critter to suffer no more than needed so I do my part by becoming a better shot ... Thanks Clay AWSOME review happy New Year God bless..
I’m a big fan of fletching tape. I clean the shaft with odourless mineral spirits or denatured alcohol and get great results. Also makes for easier re fletching or repairs.
First of all thanks for giveing us a good way to start the new 2020 and may your trips be blessed for the new year. and thank you for all the information of your channel and videos
I use the Minwax water base finish and so far I like it , I also use their water base stains which you can get in all kinds of colors. I make my own dip tubes , arrow saw, and cresting machine with easy to get parts so in truth for about 100$ I have all that I need to make wood arrows. Yeah the Blitzinburger is expensive but they last forever. I used mine so much I needed new detent springs so I wrote them and they sent me a set for free! I am working on getting a good arrow straightener. Wood arrows are fun but they aren’t cheaper than carbon unless you can make your own shafts.
My experience with water based product is that they raise the grain and the dried parts have a rubbery texture and don't harden completely which could have an effect on speed I would imagine. I've only dealt with minwax in the context of solvent based and I shall say that it does not agree with sanding.
@@dillonmercer4069 I have made several batches of arrows now and have had no such problems. I make sure I sand the arrows adequately first but haven’t had an issue at all and the colors come out very well. I also use the water based clear finish and am happy with it. But of course different people like different things. I just can’t afford expensive dyes and finishes as I don’t do enough arrows to justify it.
I love Arrows, Big feathers x 4 corkscrewed like a prop, wood, Alloy, Carbon, micro plastic fletched, Just love Them all! Would Dig a set of Richard Head longbows custom arrows just to have an hold. Addictive has the best instructional Videos ever. Great stuff Clay, Ahahahaha, unreal Jig setup, looking forward to Your videos this year.
As far as finish goes I would strongly recommend a conversion varnish. One thick coat full length. Sand with 220 grit. One more at least on the leading half of the shaft. Dries a little slower but really solid/smooth. Sherwin Williams has a nice dull rub: v84f83. Does require catalyst. I know the ratios if interested.
You're spot on with the blood trail comment...the marketing of broadheads is terribly misleading...I've shot more than thirty animals with two blade heads and have never had a lack of blood leading directly to a dead critter...I've been witness to a compound shooter who lost five bears using expandables...let's just say, "I'm not a fan."
awesome little vid , always look forward to your videos. I'm also a big fan of solid broad heads , I don't trust, the multi peace replaceable razor heads but that last one is just me. Good tuning out strips the rest. Made some forward taper arrows ( fallowed the example in one of your other vids) and couldn't see a difference in flight. That said I can see where it would aid in pass throughs , After all if you punch an 11/32 hole in the front, pulling a 5/16 tail should have less parasitic loss of momentum. At least that's what my logic comes to. Looking forward to your vids this coming year.
Got into this a while ago. Sooo satisfying and rewarding! And I still have a lot to learn, so thank you for the great video and top notch tips! I still buy my fletchings though.
Have been making my own fletchings for some time now. Have a friend who's a big time turkey hunter and he saves the wings for me. At one point, I was using 2 Trueflight or Gateway(prefer Gateway, as they seem to be a tougher feather) and a wild turkey feather as a cock feather, cut on a fletching cutter. I found that the feathers cut on a "feather chopper" were about 10%, give or take larger than the processed feathers. So I started using all wild feathers, and dropped down to a 4" fletching. Asked my buddy if he'd mind killing more turkeys. Ha!
This is gonna sound crazy but I've never used a fletching jig ,I've always peeled the feathers and used wood glue to attach them, however now I think I'll get me some clamps and use a few jigs , Thank you again
I’ve done it that way before too but when you make a bunch of arrows like I do a set of jigs is super nice. And the fletchings are all exactly the same.
Looking at fletching clamps there are three different versions. Left, Right, and straight. Which one do you use and why? Thanks for all the great content.
Great video as usual Clay. I enjoy the benefits of a wood shaft that tapers down to the nock, but I've always wanted to try and see about the benefits of having a point taper for target and small-game arrows. Thad Beckum made a good video on them, you may want to check it out. I think he called the video Backwards Arrow. Also, I wanted to ask you, have you ever messed around with Manchu-style bows? I've been training with them for a while now and I think this year I might make my first try at bagging a deer shooting Eastern style instead of Mediterranean style. Making these bows is really hard though, and I haven't had a much luck finishing one that wouldn't make my teeth shake when shooting. But my point here is that I can shoot a bow that pulls 60# at 33" and it'll launch a 900 grain arrow at around 160 fps. While I know they're not for everyone, I just thought it might would interest you. Hope you're having a great year so far, and I'm looking forward to your next vid!
Great info. Separate question. Does anyone have honest discussions on lost game and lessons learned? Everyone tells of their successes, but I’ve learned more from my failures.
Have u ever thought about making a plains style short bow. It would be pretty hard to do getting the length, speed, and poundage right. They were usually sinew backed. It would be a very cool video series. Are you up for the challenge?
I have a custom 45# recurve and am looking into making my own wood arrows. I have obviously heard of Port Orford cedar but would you recommend this SureWood shafts over POC?
The dug fir shafts are a little heavier and, in my experience, tend to be a little tougher than POC. But it really comes down to the shaft quality. Surewood makes a good quality shaft. But no matter who you get them from, get the best they have. They often have several different grades. Get the best.
You will not be unhappy with Surewood Shafts! They will do much of the work for you. Just call them and tell them what you want to do and they will send you the shafts you need. Then you can build arrows you will be proud of. Douglas Fir shafts are tougher than POC.
@@jamescooper2618my uncle has always used POC but he orders them in the heaviest spine you can get. Like the 80 plus. And the thick 23/64 shafts. They don't break too often. I mean yeah if you hit a rock. I definitely seem to lose them before they break but even when you do split one open, it smells great!
Hey Clay, thanks for responding to the question I left on another video. I recently watched a Korean movie called War of the Arrows, in which the protagonist used what is called a tong-ah and pyunjuns. These are essentially really small arrows (smaller than any draw length) that use a barrel-like mechanism to be able to shoot from a regular bow. Another archery youtuber I watch, NUSensei, explains it in ruclips.net/video/lkMPK2569Ks/видео.html. Anyway, my question for you is if you think these smaller arrows would give any sort of advantage in either the hunt or target practice. Normally I wouldn't put much stock into what I see on tv, but from what I understand, these tools are historically accurate and were used to great extent in Korea.
Made so many wood arrows must been thousands 20 years of hunting arrows for so many friends lol. Great fun
seriously underated Chanel man.
such a wealth of knowledge
Thanks much
I agree that a tapered shaft has to help in terms of a pass thru and a pass thru is a great thing for sure. Years ago when the Grizzly heads first came out with the 2 blade bevel 3 to 1 ratio, I bought them and loved them. I never could afford the tapered shafts, just the way that it was. I still fletch my arrows, I like getting them the way i like them to be. Old Farts like me made most of our equipment from spine testers to fletching burners. I grew up not buying something that I could make or build myself. I have basically one fletching jig but it is a good one. I wish that fifty years ago we had RUclips videos like this one. You younger guys can get out there and stomp around, me, it is what it is so my hunts are close to the road on easy walking ground. Plus my bows have gone from 70 lbs down to 40 lbs now. I have a longbow and I have always loved the stick and string. Always wanted to make a good selfbow with sinew backing but never had the time or the place. You seem to be very good at bow making and I enjoy your videos. Keep at it and never slow down. shoot straight and may your arrows fly true
Thanks Jerry
So I’ve been been watching your videos not gonna lie my favorite ones are the green tree to bow in 24 hours or less / Survival bow! I could watch endless videos from ya on that matter, thanks for the quality content bro i hope to take a class in the future if you offer them again
Thanks 🙏
Amen about shot placement you can just about use a field tip if you get the right shot placement and the won't need to be a blood trail practic people practice it's a must for good clean kills I've always shot my bow at least a few arrows a day just out of habit even in the off season but I love archery and I don't want that critter to suffer no more than needed so I do my part by becoming a better shot ... Thanks Clay AWSOME review happy New Year God bless..
Thanks Alex
God bless you man
You are showing your skills like no one else
You a good man
Thanks much
Still have dip tubes and lots of one shot stripping paints and an old homemade cresting lathe. It at least 50 years old lol
I’m a big fan of fletching tape. I clean the shaft with odourless mineral spirits or denatured alcohol and get great results. Also makes for easier re fletching or repairs.
I’ve never tried it but hear good things. I may give it a go!
First of all thanks for giveing us a good way to start the new 2020 and may your trips be blessed for the new year. and thank you for all the information of your channel and videos
Thanks much
I use the Minwax water base finish and so far I like it , I also use their water base stains which you can get in all kinds of colors. I make my own dip tubes , arrow saw, and cresting machine with easy to get parts so in truth for about 100$ I have all that I need to make wood arrows. Yeah the Blitzinburger is expensive but they last forever. I used mine so much I needed new detent springs so I wrote them and they sent me a set for free! I am working on getting a good arrow straightener. Wood arrows are fun but they aren’t cheaper than carbon unless you can make your own shafts.
My experience with water based product is that they raise the grain and the dried parts have a rubbery texture and don't harden completely which could have an effect on speed I would imagine. I've only dealt with minwax in the context of solvent based and I shall say that it does not agree with sanding.
@@dillonmercer4069 I have made several batches of arrows now and have had no such problems. I make sure I sand the arrows adequately first but haven’t had an issue at all and the colors come out very well. I also use the water based clear finish and am happy with it. But of course different people like different things. I just can’t afford expensive dyes and finishes as I don’t do enough arrows to justify it.
I love Arrows, Big feathers x 4 corkscrewed like a prop, wood, Alloy, Carbon, micro plastic fletched, Just love Them all!
Would Dig a set of Richard Head longbows custom arrows just to have an hold.
Addictive has the best instructional Videos ever.
Great stuff Clay, Ahahahaha, unreal Jig setup, looking forward to Your videos this year.
Thanks Jono!
Fun stuff. Keeps the winter doldrums away.
You are always very helpful. Thanks mate, really looking forward to seeing you hunt in 2020.
Thanks David
As far as finish goes I would strongly recommend a conversion varnish. One thick coat full length. Sand with 220 grit. One more at least on the leading half of the shaft. Dries a little slower but really solid/smooth. Sherwin Williams has a nice dull rub: v84f83. Does require catalyst. I know the ratios if interested.
Big fan of your channel clay awesome content thank you for all the knowledge
Much appreciated
@@clayhayeshunter no thank you big time i enjoy all of your knowledge and as a new PNW hunter I try to learn as much as possible.
You're spot on with the blood trail comment...the marketing of broadheads is terribly misleading...I've shot more than thirty animals with two blade heads and have never had a lack of blood leading directly to a dead critter...I've been witness to a compound shooter who lost five bears using expandables...let's just say, "I'm not a fan."
Agreed
Your best video yet Mr Hayes
awesome little vid , always look forward to your videos. I'm also a big fan of solid broad heads , I don't trust, the multi peace replaceable razor heads but that last one is just me. Good tuning out strips the rest. Made some forward taper arrows ( fallowed the example in one of your other vids) and couldn't see a difference in flight. That said I can see where it would aid in pass throughs , After all if you punch an 11/32 hole in the front, pulling a 5/16 tail should have less parasitic loss of momentum. At least that's what my logic comes to. Looking forward to your vids this coming year.
Got into this a while ago. Sooo satisfying and rewarding! And I still have a lot to learn, so thank you for the great video and top notch tips!
I still buy my fletchings though.
Looking forward to the new videos Clay. Best of luck .
Thanks Chad
Have been making my own fletchings for some time now. Have a friend who's a big time turkey hunter and he saves the wings for me. At one point, I was using 2 Trueflight or Gateway(prefer Gateway, as they seem to be a tougher feather) and a wild turkey feather as a cock feather, cut on a fletching cutter. I found that the feathers cut on a "feather chopper" were about 10%, give or take larger than the processed feathers. So I started using all wild feathers, and dropped down to a 4" fletching. Asked my buddy if he'd mind killing more turkeys. Ha!
This is gonna sound crazy but I've never used a fletching jig ,I've always peeled the feathers and used wood glue to attach them, however now I think I'll get me some clamps and use a few jigs ,
Thank you again
I’ve done it that way before too but when you make a bunch of arrows like I do a set of jigs is super nice. And the fletchings are all exactly the same.
Thanks for all the vids clay ! Learning a lot from these thank you !
Looking at fletching clamps there are three different versions. Left, Right, and straight. Which one do you use and why? Thanks for all the great content.
Hi Clay , have you ever made and or shot an used traditional Indian short bow and arows
What wraps are these. Like that yellow. How can i get the same ones? Where did u buy
Great video as usual Clay. I enjoy the benefits of a wood shaft that tapers down to the nock, but I've always wanted to try and see about the benefits of having a point taper for target and small-game arrows. Thad Beckum made a good video on them, you may want to check it out. I think he called the video Backwards Arrow. Also, I wanted to ask you, have you ever messed around with Manchu-style bows? I've been training with them for a while now and I think this year I might make my first try at bagging a deer shooting Eastern style instead of Mediterranean style. Making these bows is really hard though, and I haven't had a much luck finishing one that wouldn't make my teeth shake when shooting. But my point here is that I can shoot a bow that pulls 60# at 33" and it'll launch a 900 grain arrow at around 160 fps. While I know they're not for everyone, I just thought it might would interest you. Hope you're having a great year so far, and I'm looking forward to your next vid!
I’d like to try my hand at some of the eastern style bows some day. Need to find a good supply of horn.
Good info.Like the fletching
Since I can not get a primer pen in my country, can I use rubbing alcohol or acetone?
Have you ever tried fletching tape. How does it compare to the glue
Great info. Separate question. Does anyone have honest discussions on lost game and lessons learned? Everyone tells of their successes, but I’ve learned more from my failures.
I did a video a couple years ago about tracking wounded animals. I may have talked a little about lost animals but I can’t remember.
@@clayhayeshunter thanks I’ll look them up. I’m really enjoying the vids
Have u ever thought about making a plains style short bow. It would be pretty hard to do getting the length, speed, and poundage right. They were usually sinew backed. It would be a very cool video series. Are you up for the challenge?
I’ve made several over the years but I just can’t shoot the short bows well.
You're spot on about the blood trail thing ,, learn to track
4:50 what was the purpose of sniffing the arrow?
Smelling for nasty gut shot... would probably cause you to hold off the persuit and give the animal more time to expire.
@@brucesnyder7581 ooh
I have done very similar with Woodbex designs.
I have a custom 45# recurve and am looking into making my own wood arrows. I have obviously heard of Port Orford cedar but would you recommend this SureWood shafts over POC?
The dug fir shafts are a little heavier and, in my experience, tend to be a little tougher than POC. But it really comes down to the shaft quality. Surewood makes a good quality shaft. But no matter who you get them from, get the best they have. They often have several different grades. Get the best.
You will not be unhappy with Surewood Shafts! They will do much of the work for you. Just call them and tell them what you want to do and they will send you the shafts you need. Then you can build arrows you will be proud of. Douglas Fir shafts are tougher than POC.
@@jamescooper2618my uncle has always used POC but he orders them in the heaviest spine you can get. Like the 80 plus. And the thick 23/64 shafts. They don't break too often. I mean yeah if you hit a rock. I definitely seem to lose them before they break but even when you do split one open, it smells great!
Serious knowledge drop!
Once had a round table with 24 bitzenburger jigs
When you sand your fletchings in the jig do you need to use a straight jig? I only have a left helical right now.
I’ve always used a straight jig. I think a helical would make it difficult.
@@clayhayeshunter that's what I was thinking, just wanted ask your opinion.
What you are buying your arrow head
What do you think John plant would take with him if they invited him out on alone? Would he talk?
What are your thoughts on bamboo arrows ?
They're great so long as they're well made.
👍🏻👍🏻
11:05 🤣
what jig is this can someone tell me ?? thanks
Bitzenburger. I’m sure they spelling is incorrect but it’s close.
@@clayhayeshunter thanks on video looked like bits and burgers 😂😂
my mix
Go for maximum blood trail a 48 inch broadhead. Lol
You wont need a bloodtrail when it cuts the deer in half.
I fron Brazil Goiás Hidrolândia 👍
👍💪
Hey Clay, thanks for responding to the question I left on another video. I recently watched a Korean movie called War of the Arrows, in which the protagonist used what is called a tong-ah and pyunjuns. These are essentially really small arrows (smaller than any draw length) that use a barrel-like mechanism to be able to shoot from a regular bow. Another archery youtuber I watch, NUSensei, explains it in ruclips.net/video/lkMPK2569Ks/видео.html. Anyway, my question for you is if you think these smaller arrows would give any sort of advantage in either the hunt or target practice. Normally I wouldn't put much stock into what I see on tv, but from what I understand, these tools are historically accurate and were used to great extent in Korea.
not sure, I'll have to check that out.
@@clayhayeshunter thanks, I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Oh and next time answer my phone call lol