Mini Lathe Chuck Tear Down & Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Tear down & Analysis of The 7X14 Minilathe Chuck.
Individual Component Analysis & Surface plate Check.
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Wow.....I feel bi-polar after all that, good, bad, good, bad points as you go through that chuck. Is it correctable?
Hi Vlad, well...... yes & no. overall its a pretty low quality chuck. Just a bit sloppy everywhere.
Jaw fit is Loose & Nasty, the Scroll as you saw, just falls out due to loose fit & heights all over the shop. On the positive side, I have run the lathe with it fitted & after re-cutting the register on the drive spindle it has acceptable run out, when holding in the centre. You could re-grind the tops of the jaws to tidy them up maybe, really depends on what you are making on your lathe & how accurate it has to be. Personally I probably won't use it, as I have other options available. But, thats not to say you couldn't get by with it.
Overall Quality is not the best compared to other import chucks I have handled, but that really was no shock.
Cheers mate.
Hi thanks for the video. When you using dial indicators, to pull it up please use black knob at the top.
Cheers.
I know I’m here pretty late to the game, but a surface grinder is the solution. What’s nice about that chuck is that it fulfills the needs of the people who complain that everything is made by cold machines these days and where’s the handmade product? Well, this seems to have been handmade. The tolerances seem about right for something handmade.
Just worked through your Chinese minila the series. I suspect the 3rd time you rebuild it that you could get it reasonably accurate. Need the Chinese minim all to go with. On the plus side the project of making your lathe and mill work moderately well teaches a lot of machining lessons. I will do this as well before I die. This deserves way more subs.
Thanks Robert, Cheers Mate.
I did the same job tonight on my 120mm, while watching you do yours. Same grit shit on the inside.
Good on Ya Mate, Horrid stuff isn't it. Cheers.
Excellent video, I personally wouldn't worry about too much run out on a 3 haw chuck, as when you turn the bar down to diameter, it will true up any runout. For better repeatability, an independent 4jaw chuck is a must, especially if your need to work on both ends of the stock
Very True Russel, Cheers mate.
Except for one thing. Often the face of the chuck and the jaw faces are used as a reference surface when machining.
I agree with your theory as I have a branded lathe witch after watching your videos I have checked out and although not perfect is nowhere near as bad as yours keep up the good work
Cheers Roger.
Could you tell us which brand?
I bought the same lathe - they are the least expensive available knowing full well it will require an immediate rebuild and a number of very worthwhile upgrades to get it to perform with reasonable accuracy. Mine too was lubricated sparsely and with what I thought could only be used motor oil or greases... it was absolutely disgusting. I'm just into the bearing replacement at the moment and will be lapping and polishing the sliding bits! Hopefully it will turn out well, it will certainly be better than "Chinese New"!
Aint that the truth. Cheers Mate.
I bought one of these vevor chucks from eBay and the back of mine looks like it has a plastic cover that covers the gears but could be metal and the three small screws actually broke the whole towards the inside of the 1-1/8 hole. Also, the truck is wobbly about 0.02 or 0.002 which causes the machine to shake
I just took mine apart. It had slag in the gears. I had to file the slag out. Anyway, cleaned and works great now.
I also just found something else out about this vevor Chuck, the three bolt holes in the back are really off, they are really slanted
as the jaws probably are as hard a frozen butter you could turn the into two part soft jaws
turn down the front drill and tap and put some pieces of alu on them
probably better then using it as a doorstop
Hears Aussie accent... presses like immediately
Cheers Mate, Thanks.
Interesting watching a tear down on these. I've seen where others invest in different cheap chucks that look like they're equal or better in quality. I don't recall watching as thorough tear down, thanks for sharing.
The two different 4-jaw chucks (independent and dual) are something I'm thinking to invest in. I want to say there is a larger 3-jaw that is cheap and better quality. I forget... I haven't been focusing on this due to outside warm weather and less rain work. Small engine for riding lawn mowers and lawn tractor work re-learning and learning for now unless I need to custom machine something. HHhmmm.
Also, wondering what you're using as a diamond lapping plate? I think I'm wanting to invest in one of those. Thanks man!
use a piece of glass and glue wet and dry sand paper down, or use lapping paste then throw the glass after as it will wear out, cheap alternative.
Good Morning to all .
Good Morning Navin, hope your well.
@@TheAussieShed....... Going on 64 years now....and ..doing fine ...except knee pain now and then.....Thanks for your wishes and great in-detail videos for newcomers to the Lathe ! Thanks once again !
Thanks cobber.
Cheers Allen
My guess, they ground the tops of the jaws without preloading them. Seems a shame as some of the chuck looks respectable but unfortunately the main reference surfaces are barely usable unless you're planning on making more of these cheap lathes. :) I know from watching a later video you aren't using this chuck and understandably so... Enjoyed the video, thanks!
0:21 intro filmed after rebuild I'm guessing :P jaws are backwards in the next frame (supposedly before the disassembly)
That is a different chuck. The jaws are not reversible
Can these parts be run through a tumbler to deburr them? Or will this affect the tolerances badly?
G'day Len, sorry Mate no idea. The Tolerances are pretty average from the get go though, cant imagine it having a huge impact. Cheers.
You might need to replace the shock absorber on that dial gauge after all that :)
Cheers Benny
@@TheAussieShed yes, it was a little lame...
You didn’t highlight that the jaws and chuck are numbered and need to be put in accordingly
How much "clearance" is in each T-slot for each jaw? If you tapped each jaw down and then measured the jaw face I wonder what variation you would find. Yes the slots cut in the jaws of my unit sure reflect the low cost. (Are you sure we are ladies and gentlemen?)
Absolutely, definitely some of the finest Folk on the Interwebs. Cheers
Can you machine the faces to get them consistent?
you can lap them consistent, *applies to 3 jaws* first chuck up with a small round part (end mill for a datum) get a base test reading, find out your highest chuck and lowest, chuck up with a medium part and repeat and same again with as big a part as possible. this is to check the parallel movement of the jaws in their slots. if they are deviating away from the datum measurement then your jaws and slots may want some work done back on the lathe. if they are concistent across the jaw ajustment but are different heights, mount and some wet and dry sand paper to a piece of glass, TIME FOR MORE LAPPING! like the saddle but with three jaws, grind down tallest to second tallest jaw (with both lowest and second tallest jaw shimmed), grind down the 2 tall chucks with the lowest packed and then when all 3 are at the same height, lap them all together, check each step with dial indicator and engineers blue on the surface plate. repeat for the lower steps, you will need thick rings (as thick as the jaw step, cut, lapped and flat check on surface plate) to be your next lapping plate, make out of aluminum or plastic and repeat. if the problem is within the jaw slots, then thats above my current knowledge to remedy in the home garage shed (the jaw groves might not be true and parallel, the slots might be bad or both). machining them flat in the lathe 'will not' work on the mini lathe as the chatter noise and the cutter hitting a step/jaw will knock it right out as well as adding tool marks that will just collect crud, as a coworker told me, " the smallest bit of spatter will ruin your day" (refers to welding spatter getting inbetween parts/jig), the clamping faces are not important as a 3 jaw chuck will loose datum when parts are taken out and put back in, they can be blueprinte but it will require the surface grinder tequenique of mounting a dremel and stone in the assembled lathe, there are videos on this.
Most, if practically all of the measurements and checks you made mean nothing on this chuck as they are not used for any machining purpose......highlighting the miscellaneous bad points does not make it a throw away item or something that is totally unusable…..The main purpose of a 3 jaw chuck is to grip raw material and then machine it...….raw material is as rough as guts anyway so it don't matter a hoot. However, for the review, it's interesting to know what you actually get for your money and how you can make it better.
G'day Ian, totally agree. yes the purpose was just to show how the General Manufacturing tolerances were.
Cheers.
you don't need tons of grease in your chuck...
How to true runout in cheap chinese chuck using a carbide cutter in a boring bar .
ruclips.net/video/i6d7buHBC6Y/видео.html
One of the other guys on Boob-Tube has a clip out where he's lamenting the fact that he had replaced the bearings and did all the "bucks-up" things to straighten the run out in his chinese lathe (ie , spent 2 or 3 times trying to buy a remedy for a twisted bed rather than the work required for the results you got), yet the solution for precision on a budget eludes him .
Just thought you'd get a chuckle out of it (may you already know which guy I'm referring to - think they call them a "wanker" down there). 😁
Thanks Spud, Much appreciated Mate.
Are sure it’s not a 80mm chuck 🤔
Hi Barney, yep 100%
He's got it on a surface plate..,. I'm sure he knows of the diameter.
There’s no excuse for that type of machining on those jaws. Either jig that was fixtured moved or the tool was chipped. Inexcusable.
It’s pee.
With an apostrophe.
But Stevo….don't you understand, the Chinese are employing you, and everyone else too, to do the finishing at 0 cost because they can't afford to pay their labourers any more than they pay to just make the thing. If you bought these chucks to sell, and did the refurbishing, how much more would you charge when you sell them on?.....that is the eye opener.
There's a shop local to me that does exactly that. They import, upgrade bearings, motor, motor controller, handles, etc, and sell for more.
I dont understand why lot of people pretending smart even they no are Not???
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
Probably because compared to most of the morons we encounter every freakin' day we appear to be geniuses Sport.