1928 Ford Model A Fluids Change
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- Опубликовано: 21 июн 2023
- Today I replace the fluids in the engine, transmission and rear end of the 1928 Ford Model A.
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This Week With Cars - Episode 0320
#fordmodela #willitrun #classiccars 
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I suggest loosening the fill plug first. That way if you can't get it out, you don't have an empty gearbox that you can't fill.
Excellent point.
You can always tell how experienced someone is working on cars by how they tackle seized bolts/plugs. You knew exactly how much torque to use and where to apply the pressure. Impressive and satisfying stuff!
I love watching him work!
The proper tool for every job , NO BUGGERED BOLTS OR SCREWS , thats what i love about watching your videos Steve !! Another succesful job well done !!!
I agree with your approach Steve. Going for the first test drive the transmission could've started 'screaming' or the gearbox started to grind so yes 'method in your madness' (I thought that was only an English/British saying!). I may be generalising here but most old cars leak oil, most of that can be due to inferior gasket material but good to keep an eye on it.I think she will run much better and change gear better now the fluids have been changed. I like that 'slot' socket a good tool to have, I don't think that was around 30 years ago when I did most of my work on cars. Great video Steve thanks for the post. 👍👍
Always take out the fill plug first... It'll drain faster and if the fill plug doesn't want to cooperate you'll know not to drain it with no way to refill it.
The hole in the oil plug would be a good place to put a strong magnet to pull out any particles out of the oil. I have also put them in the transmission and rear end. I also put them on the fill plugs so that when I check the oil level I can clean it and get a feel of how the transmission and rear end are doing.
boy, oh, boy could i have used one of the bags to good effect (didn't know they existed) when changing the gear oil in my 2001 dodge 1500 ram pickup with a manual five-speed the other day. as it was i ended up with about half a liter on the ground, half a liter in the transmission and half a liter down my arm! :)
Hi Steve ls it a "method in your madness" or is it a "Madness in your methods" !! 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks Steve .
Oil filters were added because people weren't doing their oil changes at recommended intervals and the manufacturers got tired of replacing engines under warranty when they knew that the car wasn't being maintained properly. The filter gave them something to show to the customer as well. They couldn't dispute nasty oil and metal shavings when it's in their face. Some cars had to have oil changes and valve adjustments at 1500 or 3000 mile intervals. Americans ain't got no time for that. Realistically any car can run with no oil filter, but only if the oil is religiously changed.
After sitting for so long the oil probably just seeped out and the seals are OK. If anything it kept the underside well protected from rust. The rear ends are known for seeping anyway. It's just how things were in 1928. And you're right about the oil. The stuff that you get from the Model A parts places is the same stuff with a different label and higher price. It's not necessary.
It's a sweet car. I'm glad it's in good hands.
We always need more video's of Model A's ... Keep them coming :D
Glad that slotted bit worked on the rear end plug! 😅
This video would have been twice as long if that plug stripped out.
Shame on you not pressure washing that nasty mess off that beautiful car.🤪Thanks for sharing your adventures with us . Stay Safe
As you were working underneath, the wood chassis was visible.....looks like it's in great shape..especially for an almost 100 year old auto. Must have been well taken care of.
I'd love to see how differently it runs and changes now it has fluid in it.
It wasn't really any different.
...but the peace of mind should be considerable!
Love the daily content. Please keep them coming. Cheers!
Wish I had enough subscribers I could keep them coming at that rate, maybe in the future!
Excellent video Steve :) just helpfull hints on this car on oil drain plug you can use thin layer on thread's of Anti Seize or Grease or clear Vaseline that my Older elders taught me and helps from rust up and grip if try come out! Also if exhaust get loud you put 2000 year of Chevrolet Impala Silencer tube in pipe keep quiet too if find original Ford Exhaust for 1928 car and like sounds of too !
I always heat up the components with a short drive before draining. Warming the fluids allows them to drain better; especially helping to reduce the sludge build-up in the engine pan.
Except the transmission and the rear end were empty. 😉
For some reason, I felt relieved when you got some gear oil in there!
great stuff thanks
I would pull the oil pan just for curiosities sake
Recommend using Delo 100 straight 40 weight for those engines.
the underneath of that Model A would be a prime candidate for a dry ice blast cleaning, that would be satisfying to video
Those machines are very expensive and I have not heard of anyone with one around me, would love to try it but I probably won't have access to one anytime soon.
@@ThisWeekWithCars I wonder how far away the guys at rebuild rescue are, they might be able to help of local??
Looking good Sir! She's nice for her age.A bit crusty ,just the way we like them. More videos would be great on the old gal.Hope you can keep her and maintain her ,and not rod it.Enough sain ,thanks for your time. Be safe and enjoy!
Need to take it somewhere that you can get it steam cleaned underneath or invest in a case of brake cleaner to clean off the grease and oil. You will be able to tell how bed the leaks are and where exactly they are coming from.
There's some pretty porous gaskets under that car! Nothing will rust down there, that's for sure! All the gearbox oil was on the outside of the gearbox!
After seeing the accumulated sludge in the engine's drain plug cavity, I wanted to drop the pan SO bad. Doesn't take any imagination to know there's a good inch of thick goo down there.
For the trans and diff, do you just fill until a bit leaks out then you know you are topped off?
So, do A's not have synchros at all? I'm surprised you're putting GL5 in it. And non zinc oil too. Like to hear the reasoning behind these choices
Thanks Steve, interesting as ever. Couple of questions. Do you keep some sort of log for all your cars so you know when you last changed the fluids (or did anything else) and what fluids you used? The goo that you took out of the sump plug, did you have a look to see what was in there eg metal filings (or worse)? Will you look to replace or repair those damaged plugs?
What damaged plugs are you referring to?
@@ThisWeekWithCars I meant the drainage and filler plugs on the dif.
Well how does she run with the gears all oiled up? Good job on not stripping any plugs. That is a surprisingly rust free car, hows the wood holding up?
Disposable gloves would help too.
Just wondering why did you not give the transmission and dif a steam or pressure wash so as to see where the oil leaks are.
It wouldn't matter, if it is leaking I will replace all the seals when I take it apart.
Hi Steve, what is that big black box next to the engine? Is it the battery?
There is a black battery under the floor next to the transmission. If you are in drivers seat it is under your feet.
Just my opinion. Your using the wrong oil. I would suggest non detergent mono grade oils. Your going to stir up all that sludge and will be doing a complete rebuild soon. Most of that synthetic oil will end up pissing right through your gaskets. Just my opinion.
Yes, that full synthetic gear oil will run right out of the old leaks, and quite a bit faster than conventional oils would.
One hundred year old engine goo!!
You know that doesn't look like a twenty eight oil pan