Carb Swap Wiring Diagram for 1995 Mustang Gt. i go into step by step of how i wired my carb swap 1995 mustang. Hopefully this helps people who need some help
yo u are one of the only sn95 channels i watch not enough sn95's out there especially in good condition its gonna be a collectors car i think since foxbody getting its glory rn
so for the fan, when you wired it to 12v switched, are you constantly running the fan when the Ign is on then? Did you wire it to the low or high speed?
What's up Was wanting to know what plug wires are best for this set up I. Carb swap mine but iam having a hard time find the right wires.the ones I have are to short and are pulled tight. I made my own plug wires from a universal set but it made it run like crap. Thanks for your time
Thanks for the information, I'm a little scared when it comes to this area of a swap, so, the harness hasn't tried to melt down or melt? I'm building a BadAss 438w with twins and I will rather keep as much stock as I can just in case I ever decide to go back to stock and everyone I have chatted with tells me to go with a aftermarket harness and ECU setup..what you think??🤔
Trauge W. May II PoorBoy Racing and Fabrication Co. no problem and no haven’t had any problems with wire issues been this way for 3 years. If I was you and going boost route I would go after market harness and ECU, like Holley efi, or mega squirt or something along those lines 👍🏼thanks for the comment
Hey man I’ve got a question about the alternator wire I’m having to do mine the same way which wire was it you used exactly I know you said green but was it the first second or third wire in the plug
Busted knuckle thanks for the reply another question did you leave the old wiring in just cut off what you didn't need and added some wire for alternator,dizzy and fan your install looked clean
Pipewrench83 Dewig yes I cut what I didn’t need and ran new wires for the rest that you mentioned and thanks I like to at least try do my stuff the right way! 👍🏼 thanks for the comment
Hey I like your videos very detailed info thanks for that. I just have a quick question, I bout a 94 v6 project for school and I have a 95 5.0 engi e i want to swap into the car... I have already bought most of the things you mentioned for a carb swap my only question is about the cross member. Will I need a 94-95 gt cross member for the 5.0 swap or will the v6 crossmember work? It might be a dumb question but I'm about to start working on it and I haven't found a clear answer online. Thanks
Jerry H. Yes I used the factory alternator and just ran a power wire off the fuse panel inside the car to the green and black wire on the factory harness
I have a 97 3.8 auto liter that i want to convert to a 5.0 carbed stick. Doing this will i have issues with the pats system If i leave the 3.8 liter pcm in it and splice it like u said would it be functuonal ? Also would i have issues with the 3.8 liter fuel pump? Converting to a stick vs auto would i run into computer issues there ? Any help is appreciated ?
njhotroder really appreciate the comment! And no it won’t bother the pats system, because what the pats system does if it recognizes a problem is kills power to the fuel pump, but since you Will have to run a alternative power wire to the pump anyways, it should be just fine. Really hope this answers your question bro
Yep it should be fine the only thing you may have to recheck is the ground on the factory fuel harness, it shouldn’t kill the ground side on it but I would check it just to be sure. Other than that running a new piggyback wire should be good.
Great video but I had a question.. Did you remove the CCR module??? Is that why you needed to re wire the fuel pump and the fan??? I been researching cause I’m going to do it real soon... I just want to make sure I have the correct info..
I didn’t remove the ccrm I just didn’t use it, it was in the car but didn’t do anything, and the factory fuel pump works off the factory distributor but since I did away with that harness I had to re wire the pump
I’m doing exactly what your doing I have the hei distributor but running on a msd 6al box and a fast fuel, fuel adjustable regulator with a Holley 650 carb. I was wondering if you had any issues after you swapped I got it started and running good so far except I have a high idle (around 13-1500 rpm) checked for vac leaks and haven’t found any checked timing and reset timing multiple times running around 6 psi fuel pressure tried adjusting the idle screw and still haven’t been able to figure out why such a high idle would you have any insight on what may be causing me issues? Thank you
Jesse Young I didn’t have any idle issues for my setup but if you checked for vac leaks and there isn’t any, maybe check the idle air mixture screws, and if your carb has a choke see maybe if that is working properly and not staying closed a little, and I’m sure you checked all the vacuum ports on the carb are all blocked off.
Thanks for the quick reply I I have an electric choke and not sure if it’s really working correctly as this is the first carbureted motor I’ve ever messed with for the same reason why you swapped out closest place to tune it is 2 1/2 hours away. Anyway I’ve tried stater fluid to check for leaks and haven’t found any so I unplugged all vacuum lines and plugged them to double check nothing else is the problem and tried the idle air screw I don’t even know where to go from here lol keep it up with the videos I really enjoyed watching them love how well you describe what you do and why great job man
Jesse Young thanks man I really appreciate that!!! 👍🏼 If the choke plate is staying closed it could cause high idle, and that’s how I would check for leaks as well starter fluid or brake clean and spray engine while running, keep grinding and trying to figure it out man, let me know if you find the solution.
94SN95 DMAN I found a wire with power on it from the interior fuse panel, That had power with the switch on, and ran it to the green wire on the alternator harness, and I didn’t cut it, I just Soldered it into it. I hope this helps out 👍🏼
@@lollis_garage3683 thanks so much i will post a video up probably tomorrow on my set up before its permanent just lining things up. Give me a peek and leave a comment if you find something im doing wrong before i get to crazy!
@@lollis_garage3683 hey...would you mind helping me out with this? Swapping a 98 5.0 explorer over to carborator..was going to use a msd box and msd distributor. Not worried about any factory gauges..it's a full race prerunner. And all new aftermarket gauges will be run ..has a fuel cell full cage . Any advice or tips?
I bought some fitting from napa, but I ran a bypass hose from water pump to intake, and from intake to right side heater core, then from left side of heater core to the water pump if that makes since.
Andrew Brown power wire for distributor I ran off the door chime module I found a wire that had power with switch on, the fuel pump I have powered off the stop hazard wire, I hope this help man.👌🏼
Andrew Brown yes sir I just ran my power to the hot side of the fuel pump, I didn’t drop the tank I just wired it straight in where you can see the fuel pump harness, and I used a quick disconnect on the wire in case I had to pull the tank
Andrew Brown yeah the plug it for the pump should be kinda roundish looking it will be that one and the fuel level sensor goes towards the middle of the tank, well depending on the year
@@lollis_garage3683 thx u im very happy with setup I'm switching to it having to many idle and stalling at stop issues with efi no vacuum leaks at all its throttle body stuff but in love the carb look way more
Man tell me , why does every single Millenial call a tach an "RPM Guage " ??????? I mean they all say the same thing. My son even does it !!! It drives me insane , its like there was a millenial hand book handed out so they all got the same terminology....
Развлечения
very informative and just what i needed! thanks.
Wish your shop was close to me I would bring my mustang to you and let you wire it
Awesome video !!!! Thanks for sharing your Knowledge !!!
Nice car. Subscribed!
Jeremy Huggins thanks you! And thanks for the support👍🏼
yo u are one of the only sn95 channels i watch
not enough sn95's out there
especially in good condition
its gonna be a collectors car i think since foxbody getting its glory rn
Agreed. Can’t wait to carb swap my 1994 svt cobra😰
so for the fan, when you wired it to 12v switched, are you constantly running the fan when the Ign is on then? Did you wire it to the low or high speed?
I searched google and cant find which wire from my factory tach to run to my hei distributor. can you help?
Have the same fuel problem in the 94 v8 swap
What's up
Was wanting to know what plug wires are best for this set up I. Carb swap mine but iam having a hard time find the right wires.the ones I have are to short and are pulled tight. I made my own plug wires from a universal set but it made it run like crap. Thanks for your time
Doug Rideout I had a set of msd wires I cut to fit and they did fine and also had some accel cut to fit wires that did good too.
What about the check engine light
Removed the bulb because there is no way to get it off. Well not that I know of
For some reason my fuel pressure regulator won’t go above or under 7 pounds of fuel pressure
Andrew Brown hmm that is strange?? At least it’s at Seven for carb that’s perfect 👌🏼, but I’m not sure why it’s not adjusting
In the process of doing a 347 twin turbo carb on my 94. What exhaust setup do you have? Thats the best sounding one ive heard EVER
Thanks for the information, I'm a little scared when it comes to this area of a swap, so, the harness hasn't tried to melt down or melt? I'm building a BadAss 438w with twins and I will rather keep as much stock as I can just in case I ever decide to go back to stock and everyone I have chatted with tells me to go with a aftermarket harness and ECU setup..what you think??🤔
Trauge W. May II PoorBoy Racing and Fabrication Co. no problem and no haven’t had any problems with wire issues been this way for 3 years. If I was you and going boost route I would go after market harness and ECU, like Holley efi, or mega squirt or something along those lines 👍🏼thanks for the comment
Hey man I’ve got a question about the alternator wire I’m having to do mine the same way which wire was it you used exactly I know you said green but was it the first second or third wire in the plug
Thanks for the video on your cooling fan does that turn on by a switch or still hooked to the ecm
Pipewrench83 Dewig you’re welcome! I have it hooked up to a power wire so when the switch is on the fan is on. 👍🏼
Busted knuckle thanks for the reply another question did you leave the old wiring in just cut off what you didn't need and added some wire for alternator,dizzy and fan your install looked clean
Pipewrench83 Dewig yes I cut what I didn’t need and ran new wires for the rest that you mentioned and thanks I like to at least try do my stuff the right way! 👍🏼 thanks for the comment
Hey I like your videos very detailed info thanks for that. I just have a quick question, I bout a 94 v6 project for school and I have a 95 5.0 engi e i want to swap into the car... I have already bought most of the things you mentioned for a carb swap my only question is about the cross member. Will I need a 94-95 gt cross member for the 5.0 swap or will the v6 crossmember work? It might be a dumb question but I'm about to start working on it and I haven't found a clear answer online. Thanks
Thanks I try to be as detailed as I can. And the cross member should be the same. I think they are the same for the 5 speed and automatics too.
Yes there the same I have a 95 V6 to V8 swap slid right in just change ur motor mounts to gt ones.
Thanks, I wasn't too sure but I'm glad to finally have a clear answer to that. Keep up the good work!
Great help have watched most all video about the Mustang. One question please. Did you use your original alternator or have to get a one wire ?
Jerry H. Yes I used the factory alternator and just ran a power wire off the fuse panel inside the car to the green and black wire on the factory harness
I have a 97 3.8 auto liter that i want to convert to a 5.0 carbed stick. Doing this will i have issues with the pats system If i leave the 3.8 liter pcm in it and splice it like u said would it be functuonal ? Also would i have issues with the 3.8 liter fuel pump? Converting to a stick vs auto would i run into computer issues there ? Any help is appreciated ?
njhotroder really appreciate the comment! And no it won’t bother the pats system, because what the pats system does if it recognizes a problem is kills power to the fuel pump, but since you Will have to run a alternative power wire to the pump anyways, it should be just fine. Really hope this answers your question bro
No converting to stick shouldnt have be an issue at all
So essentially leave everything in.place electronically and piggy bag wires into the hot wire of each part and i should be good correct ?
Yep it should be fine the only thing you may have to recheck is the ground on the factory fuel harness, it shouldn’t kill the ground side on it but I would check it just to be sure. Other than that running a new piggyback wire should be good.
Thank you for your help. Gonna save up to do this. I love your ride and its awesome. Thank you very much for your help.
Great video but I had a question.. Did you remove the CCR module??? Is that why you needed to re wire the fuel pump and the fan??? I been researching cause I’m going to do it real soon... I just want to make sure I have the correct info..
I didn’t remove the ccrm I just didn’t use it, it was in the car but didn’t do anything, and the factory fuel pump works off the factory distributor but since I did away with that harness I had to re wire the pump
Did you wire into the red and yellow wire on the back of your tach
Doug Rideout should be the brown wire with a yellow stripe if I’m not mistaken.
Thanks busted knuckle
I’m doing exactly what your doing I have the hei distributor but running on a msd 6al box and a fast fuel, fuel adjustable regulator with a Holley 650 carb. I was wondering if you had any issues after you swapped I got it started and running good so far except I have a high idle (around 13-1500 rpm) checked for vac leaks and haven’t found any checked timing and reset timing multiple times running around 6 psi fuel pressure tried adjusting the idle screw and still haven’t been able to figure out why such a high idle would you have any insight on what may be causing me issues? Thank you
Jesse Young I didn’t have any idle issues for my setup but if you checked for vac leaks and there isn’t any, maybe check the idle air mixture screws, and if your carb has a choke see maybe if that is working properly and not staying closed a little, and I’m sure you checked all the vacuum ports on the carb are all blocked off.
Thanks for the quick reply I I have an electric choke and not sure if it’s really working correctly as this is the first carbureted motor I’ve ever messed with for the same reason why you swapped out closest place to tune it is 2 1/2 hours away. Anyway I’ve tried stater fluid to check for leaks and haven’t found any so I unplugged all vacuum lines and plugged them to double check nothing else is the problem and tried the idle air screw I don’t even know where to go from here lol keep it up with the videos I really enjoyed watching them love how well you describe what you do and why great job man
Jesse Young thanks man I really appreciate that!!! 👍🏼 If the choke plate is staying closed it could cause high idle, and that’s how I would check for leaks as well starter fluid or brake clean and spray engine while running, keep grinding and trying to figure it out man, let me know if you find the solution.
Will do man thanks for the feed back much appreciated
How did you do the alternator im installing Holley sniper TBI and im getting ready for wiring my 94 Cobra up
94SN95 DMAN I found a wire with power on it from the interior fuse panel, That had power with the switch on, and ran it to the green wire on the alternator harness, and I didn’t cut it, I just Soldered it into it. I hope this helps out 👍🏼
@@lollis_garage3683 thanks so much i will post a video up probably tomorrow on my set up before its permanent just lining things up. Give me a peek and leave a comment if you find something im doing wrong before i get to crazy!
94SN95 DMAN lol will do man! And good luck with the build hope all goes smoothly! 👍🏼
Did you completely remove the ECU and all wiring?
what gauge wire did you use?
How would you wire up the gas gauge? I tried giving the sending unit power and it reads full but Ik the car has less than that.
Tiger Holley you can leave the harness for the fuel level sensor stock as long as you keep the computer in the car
I bought it car swapped and he removed a lot of stuff ,you have any idea what to do if the computer isn’t there?
And was also wondering how to wire the ac back into the system( I have no wires coming from the bulk head in the left corner of the engine bay)
Is it stock heads and pushrods?
Dustin Fuller it’s trickflow heads and pushrods
@@lollis_garage3683 sounds awesome and thank u for ur videos has made things alot easier for my own swap
What fuel pressure regulator did you use?
Andrew Brown Holley part #12-803
Which regulator are you using? I was thinking about doing this to mine because I saw a foxbody with that done but they had two regulators plumbed in.
Holley
What size fuses did you use for the dizzy, fuel and alt.
20amp
@@lollis_garage3683 thanks man
What kind of wire did you use to wire up this stuff I wanna make sure I get the right kind
I used a 14 gauge wire that I got from Napa. But anything 14 to 18 gauge should do fine
@@lollis_garage3683 thanks man I appreciate it
No problem at all
@@lollis_garage3683 hey...would you mind helping me out with this?
Swapping a 98 5.0 explorer over to carborator..was going to use a msd box and msd distributor.
Not worried about any factory gauges..it's a full race prerunner. And all new aftermarket gauges will be run ..has a fuel cell full cage .
Any advice or tips?
zimm z.ttocs an msd box would definitely be the way to go if your going that route.
How did u run the coolant lines that comes across the top of the engine to the heater core.
I bought some fitting from napa, but I ran a bypass hose from water pump to intake, and from intake to right side heater core, then from left side of heater core to the water pump if that makes since.
You might be able to watch my other video titled 1995 mustang carb swap v8, and may be able to see what I'm talking about
Thanks for the Info
Great video! I have a 96 v6 that I’m putting a carbed 351w in. Did you leave the computer plugged up in kickpanel passemger side?
Yes I did leave the computer in the kick panel plugged in.
Nice video and very informative! I love the car and the shop! Are you using the factory efi fuel pump?
Yes I am, just running a fuel pressure regulator to achieve 7 psi
@lollis_garage3683 if you still have the car can you do a video on the fuel pressure regulator set up? Thanks!
What gauge wire did you use for the wiring the fuel pump and tac. And temp ?
14 gauge
@@lollis_garage3683 ok man thanks for the fast reply
Are you running ac? If I plan to delete my smog an ac, can I just delete those belts and run a shorter belt?
Yes you can I don’t have either.
What throttle cable did you use?
Andrew Brown it’s the mr gasket universal cable part #5657 hope this helps and thanks for the comment! 👍🏼
BustedKnuckleProduction congrats on 1k subs! Now we need a burnout video lol
Andrew Brown thanks bro!!
Do you remember which fuse you ran the power wire too?
I don’t but I can look and let you know.
BustedKnuckleProduction I’d really appreciate it
BustedKnuckleProduction did you check?
Andrew Brown I’ll get to it today bro didn’t have the time yesterday unfortunately👍🏼
Andrew Brown power wire for distributor I ran off the door chime module I found a wire that had power with switch on, the fuel pump I have powered off the stop hazard wire, I hope this help man.👌🏼
Did you access the fuel pump positive by the tank?
Andrew Brown yes sir I just ran my power to the hot side of the fuel pump, I didn’t drop the tank I just wired it straight in where you can see the fuel pump harness, and I used a quick disconnect on the wire in case I had to pull the tank
BustedKnuckleProduction it’s the wire loom that only has two wires correct? I imagine that’s the positive and negative
Andrew Brown yeah the plug it for the pump should be kinda roundish looking it will be that one and the fuel level sensor goes towards the middle of the tank, well depending on the year
BustedKnuckleProduction black and purple wire?
BustedKnuckleProduction nvm I ran it to the inertia switch so if I’d ever get in a accident it’ll kill power to the pump
What kinda exhaust you running bud?
Demyrion Washington I’m running pypes pipe bomb catback, shorty headers and h pipe
What manifold and carb did u use?
Eric Strohl edelbrock performer rpm
@@lollis_garage3683 thx u im very happy with setup I'm switching to it having to many idle and stalling at stop issues with efi no vacuum leaks at all its throttle body stuff but in love the carb look way more
Eric Strohl the carb look is just clean and not a lot of Wires and your welcome bro!
@@lollis_garage3683 one last questions did u use factory fuel lines?
@@lollis_garage3683 did u also have just feed or bother feed and return lines?
Hey man i posted the video! Check me out please
Damn your idle sounds amazing! What cam did you install?
Fransisco Lopez thanks 👍🏼 and it’s a lunati voodoo part number 20350712
Man tell me , why does every single Millenial call a tach an "RPM Guage " ??????? I mean they all say the same thing. My son even does it !!! It drives me insane , its like there was a millenial hand book handed out so they all got the same terminology....