Strangely enough, I had quite literally just finished taking apart my Classic/Mini controllers to spot some differences and came across some observations. (Note, my Mini controller is from the re-released version, if there is any difference at all.) Here's some questions you may have (and I've seen from the comments). Do the old parts fit in the new controller? Kind of. It looks as though the B/A button pads would work just fine, as well as the Start/Select pad, but the old D-Pad will not fit properly. The new silicone pad only connects to the bottom right post, whereas the older version connected to the bottom right and top left. The top left post in the Mini version has two bits of plastic that prevent the silicone from seating properly. You could always just cut it to make it work, but it may end up shifting around. How about the other way around? Yes, to a degree. The plastic bit for the D-Pad assembly seems to work just fine, but the new silicone pad has a smaller hole (not by much, but it's smaller). You could probably use it just fine. The silicone for the B/A buttons seems to work just fine as well. The Select/Start buttons are shaped differently and will need to be "smushed" into place by a small amount, but shouldn't affect the overall feel. How about the buttons? For me, the B/A buttons themselves fit, but feel slightly wider. When released, there's a small amount of friction that prevents the silicone pad from popping the button back up the way the Classic controller would. Other than that, everything else should work. Ultimately, the Classic D-Pad will require its original silicone, as the pivot point on the plastic is shaped differently and will not fit in the Mini's silicone. Can I just replace the board and call it a day? Technically yes, but the layout of the pins that the board falls into is, once again, slightly different. In the long run, it most likely will not cause any issues, but will put a small amount of stress on internal components. The biggest issue is the cord itself. The Classic controller's cord is thicker, and the hole on the Mini's controller will not allow it to fit. Conversely, the Mini's cord is smaller, so the cord will flop around a bit in the Classic's larger hole. Other than design differences, the controllers are the same, right? Yes, and no. The physical layout of everything is actually pretty much dead on, but the silicone pads are stiffer and slightly shorter, allowing for faster button pushes with less travel. The D-Pad plastic is actually slightly shorter as well. For me, the pivot doesn't seem "deep" enough. It's hard to explain unless you're comparing controllers right next to one another. There's small differences, but overall, they're pretty much identical. Side note: The Classic controller I'm using I had purchased brand new, sealed in box a few years ago. I've used it for gaming, but have maybe logged in only about 40 hours or so (I used it for emulation using a USB dongle) which tells me that these controllers aren't really worn. Still, I could immediately feel a difference when playing a game I've played many, MANY times when doing so on the Mini. It's a very slight difference, but it's there.
I saw one of these for sale new and for a split second I thought Nintendo was kind enough to manufacture new controllers for their old system. How great would that have been?
The cable is so short because it is designed to also work with the Wii Remote as a "classic controller." It was a design choice. They definitely should have made that more clear and they definitely should have either included an extension or had them for sale next to the system as an official "NES Classic" accessory.
This may have been answered but is there a way to convert the NEW classic controllers to be used on an actual NES? I am wondering if its possible to convert the mini plug to original NES and not the other way around.
Yes sort of. They do fit and work but to be honest I've picked up $2 new silicone pads off eBay that work perfectly in the original NES controller. I would do that instead of using these parts.
Well, with the new Mini I can use my Wii Classic or Classic Controller Pro as well as my Wii Hori Battle Pads, etc. With my original NES I found knockoff contacts just plain suck.
I noticed that the pcb board uses a connector that the wire connects to. I wonder if a controller with a longer wire is connected the same way to their pcb. If it is you can just swap out the wire to the controller, or if you have the skill just splice a longer wire to the connector that way you have a longer wire with out it being obvious that its an extension cable.
Been having an issue since getting the NES Classic when it first released where the d-pad does not respond properly. PacMan is the worse as pushing down, Pacman turns back or simply ignores me pressing down. SW seems ok. Purely seems to be with the D-pad (on all my controllers except the wireless) as its consistently inconsistent for all games. Having a huge problem finding any info on this. Very odd situation. Frustrating at times.
I had the same issue. It was as if multiple directional inputs were being processed. I managed to fix it (somewhat) by taking apart the controller and with a knife, cutting out the center section of the d-pad silicone membrane. Just cut the center circle region so that it's a little bigger then button the controller back up. It's not a perfect fix, but it is performing noticeably better.
What kind of connector is used to connect the cable to the board? Can you disconnect it from the board easily? I am thinking you could get one of the extension cables, strip the female end, use one of those white connectors on the loose wires, then use it to replace the short existing cord so the cable ends up being maybe 6ft or 10ft instead. Does it seem like something that would be possible?
Correct me if I'm wrong but did they use a 0 ohm surface mount resistor to jump over traces instead of spinning a two sided board. If so then parts have become cheaper than machine time or it makes for a more robust board :)
Michael Hodgson Yep - it's just a way of routing the traces more easily on a cheapo single-layer board. ;) Wish I'd bought one now. I even had it in the shopping cart on Amazon, but talked myself out of it. lol I stupidly didn't expect there to be such a huge deal about the apparent "lack" of stock afterwards, since there were plenty to pre-order a few weeks ago. What I don't get is why the people who REALLY wanted one didn't just pre-order online though?
There were no pre-orders in the U.S. Target briefly opened it to pre-orders, sold out immediately, and ended up canceling some of the orders. I'm not sure if any of them went through successfully though.
How do the mold and buttons compare between the two? Is there anything transferable from one to the other so I can replace or rebuild by old controllers and still use them on a NES?
For me, the controller is a more important part of the retro feel. Its what connects you to your game. I had plans to mod the new controllers since modding older ones is sacrilege, but it looks like it isnt as mod friendly since it uses SMTs. Still very spacious inside though!
Wow the original NES controller PCB looks like it was hand taped some poor guy had to lay out those traces by hand with thin black tape on a transparent sheet to make that PCB. Nowadays we use CAD software like Altium, Eagle, or KiCad and can spit out a PCB like that with little effort how technology has changed.
Strangely enough, I had quite literally just finished taking apart my Classic/Mini controllers to spot some differences and came across some observations. (Note, my Mini controller is from the re-released version, if there is any difference at all.) Here's some questions you may have (and I've seen from the comments).
Do the old parts fit in the new controller?
Kind of. It looks as though the B/A button pads would work just fine, as well as the Start/Select pad, but the old D-Pad will not fit properly. The new silicone pad only connects to the bottom right post, whereas the older version connected to the bottom right and top left. The top left post in the Mini version has two bits of plastic that prevent the silicone from seating properly. You could always just cut it to make it work, but it may end up shifting around.
How about the other way around?
Yes, to a degree. The plastic bit for the D-Pad assembly seems to work just fine, but the new silicone pad has a smaller hole (not by much, but it's smaller). You could probably use it just fine. The silicone for the B/A buttons seems to work just fine as well. The Select/Start buttons are shaped differently and will need to be "smushed" into place by a small amount, but shouldn't affect the overall feel.
How about the buttons?
For me, the B/A buttons themselves fit, but feel slightly wider. When released, there's a small amount of friction that prevents the silicone pad from popping the button back up the way the Classic controller would. Other than that, everything else should work. Ultimately, the Classic D-Pad will require its original silicone, as the pivot point on the plastic is shaped differently and will not fit in the Mini's silicone.
Can I just replace the board and call it a day?
Technically yes, but the layout of the pins that the board falls into is, once again, slightly different. In the long run, it most likely will not cause any issues, but will put a small amount of stress on internal components. The biggest issue is the cord itself. The Classic controller's cord is thicker, and the hole on the Mini's controller will not allow it to fit. Conversely, the Mini's cord is smaller, so the cord will flop around a bit in the Classic's larger hole.
Other than design differences, the controllers are the same, right?
Yes, and no. The physical layout of everything is actually pretty much dead on, but the silicone pads are stiffer and slightly shorter, allowing for faster button pushes with less travel. The D-Pad plastic is actually slightly shorter as well. For me, the pivot doesn't seem "deep" enough. It's hard to explain unless you're comparing controllers right next to one another. There's small differences, but overall, they're pretty much identical.
Side note: The Classic controller I'm using I had purchased brand new, sealed in box a few years ago. I've used it for gaming, but have maybe logged in only about 40 hours or so (I used it for emulation using a USB dongle) which tells me that these controllers aren't really worn. Still, I could immediately feel a difference when playing a game I've played many, MANY times when doing so on the Mini. It's a very slight difference, but it's there.
Thanks for the detailed review!
I saw one of these for sale new and for a split second I thought Nintendo was kind enough to manufacture new controllers for their old system. How great would that have been?
Could you put the original PCB in the new mini case? Some of my controllers are kind of beat to shit, so this seems like a good way to refurbish them.
The cable is so short because it is designed to also work with the Wii Remote as a "classic controller." It was a design choice. They definitely should have made that more clear and they definitely should have either included an extension or had them for sale next to the system as an official "NES Classic" accessory.
This may have been answered but is there a way to convert the NEW classic controllers to be used on an actual NES? I am wondering if its possible to convert the mini plug to original NES and not the other way around.
Would the new board and cable fit in the old controller ?
Do the silicone parts fit the old controllers?
Looks like a no but I'm thinking we could just put the original PCB and cord into the shell and contacts to form an almost new controller.
Yeah, I did wonder that!
Amir Jubran I'm going to do that to my broken original NES controller to play on my original NES with a brand new controller ^^
Yes sort of. They do fit and work but to be honest I've picked up $2 new silicone pads off eBay that work perfectly in the original NES controller. I would do that instead of using these parts.
Well, with the new Mini I can use my Wii Classic or Classic Controller Pro as well as my Wii Hori Battle Pads, etc. With my original NES I found knockoff contacts just plain suck.
It looks like the original controller has 5 internal wires and the mini has 4. Could these be soldered together? Thanks
maybe quite a noob Q, but If i want to solder this board to an arcade controller, where exactly is the ground? i cannot locate it. Thanks!
I noticed that the pcb board uses a connector that the wire connects to. I wonder if a controller with a longer wire is connected the same way to their pcb. If it is you can just swap out the wire to the controller, or if you have the skill just splice a longer wire to the connector that way you have a longer wire with out it being obvious that its an extension cable.
The controller chainise Is compatible with the Wii remote AND games of virtual consola?
Been having an issue since getting the NES Classic when it first released where the d-pad does not respond properly. PacMan is the worse as pushing down, Pacman turns back or simply ignores me pressing down. SW seems ok. Purely seems to be with the D-pad (on all my controllers except the wireless) as its consistently inconsistent for all games. Having a huge problem finding any info on this. Very odd situation. Frustrating at times.
I had the same issue. It was as if multiple directional inputs were being processed.
I managed to fix it (somewhat) by taking apart the controller and with a knife, cutting out the center section of the d-pad silicone membrane. Just cut the center circle region so that it's a little bigger then button the controller back up.
It's not a perfect fix, but it is performing noticeably better.
@@thecryogenicdrummer1110 thx for the idea. Will give it a try!
What kind of connector is used to connect the cable to the board? Can you disconnect it from the board easily?
I am thinking you could get one of the extension cables, strip the female end, use one of those white connectors on the loose wires, then use it to replace the short existing cord so the cable ends up being maybe 6ft or 10ft instead.
Does it seem like something that would be possible?
Could you take a Wii nunchuck and solder the Wii nunchuck to it the new nes classic controller
Correct me if I'm wrong but did they use a 0 ohm surface mount resistor to jump over traces instead of spinning a two sided board. If so then parts have become cheaper than machine time or it makes for a more robust board :)
It looks simple but reliable. Let's see if they break with a bit of play.
Michael Hodgson Yep - it's just a way of routing the traces more easily on a cheapo single-layer board. ;)
Wish I'd bought one now. I even had it in the shopping cart on Amazon, but talked myself out of it. lol
I stupidly didn't expect there to be such a huge deal about the apparent "lack" of stock afterwards, since there were plenty to pre-order a few weeks ago.
What I don't get is why the people who REALLY wanted one didn't just pre-order online though?
There were no pre-orders in the U.S. Target briefly opened it to pre-orders, sold out immediately, and ended up canceling some of the orders. I'm not sure if any of them went through successfully though.
Nice video, just subbed. What camera/mic did you use for this video? The quality is very nice.
How do the mold and buttons compare between the two? Is there anything transferable from one to the other so I can replace or rebuild by old controllers and still use them on a NES?
xj1ggy they work perfectly fine ... I'm going to a video in it ...
Can you solder the mini nes cable to the original nes controller?
I am looking for the following part… f1-04
it is rubber piece behind the red B A buttons.
Does anyone know who makes these replacement parts
can sb tell me what pin for (2:18)
G'day mate , just wondering how to use a Japanese Original Famicon in Australia, I'm currently in Japan now and really want to pick one up , cheers
For me, the controller is a more important part of the retro feel. Its what connects you to your game.
I had plans to mod the new controllers since modding older ones is sacrilege, but it looks like it isnt as mod friendly since it uses SMTs. Still very spacious inside though!
Hopefully I can grab one one day.... I didnt stand a chance thursday morning D:
so looks like you could change the housing between the classic and the original.
The board was always going to be very different. It's a necessity, because it's compatible with the Wii, it needs to be broadly USB compatible.
does the wii classic controller work with the nes classic mini
Yes. And vice versa.
xj1ggy I've just seen that if u use the classic controller u don't have to reset from the box just press the home button on the classic controller
I didn't have a wii classic controller to test sorry. I suspect they will work fine though.
Wow the original NES controller PCB looks like it was hand taped some poor guy had to lay out those traces by hand with thin black tape on a transparent sheet to make that PCB.
Nowadays we use CAD software like Altium, Eagle, or KiCad and can spit out a PCB like that with little effort how technology has changed.
i like how nintendo marked all 9 points so i can circuit hijack one of these into a full sized arcade stick now
Seems like the old PCB would fit the new controller.
If so that would be awesome. New NES controllers for €10!!!
Just get a longer HDMI cable
A longer HDMI and USB power is an option for sure.
You are impressed of the build quality? It's Nintendo.