The list is at [53:17] but I put it down here with reference links, mostly to the British Amazon. Gonna PIN this comment as you are not the first person who asked and EDIT it if I find that I missed something - Camera - Canon 80D - Considering to switch it to Canon90D or R when this one dies - Lens: Canon 18-135mm for large props, Canon Macro 105mm for small props. - Hoya HD Gold Circular Polarisation filter - you need to pick the size correct for your lens diameter (amzn.to/3qktKLD) -ScanSpace Ar400 Ring Flash Polarisation Filter (scanspace.nz/) - X-Rite ColorChecker Passport - I suggest to purchase an original one from X-Rite (amzn.to/3zLKY7t) - Aluminium Manfrotto 190Go! Tripod with twisted locks, no clips as clips are much heavier. Carboon version is about 300 lighter and honestly.. still not sure if it is worth to switch. If I have a choice and a lot of money, I would probably pick the carboon one. But for props scanning it can be any which is stable enough and designed to hold the weight (amzn.to/3nbzgOD) Manfrotto XPRO Ball Head with 200PL Quick Release. I used the RC2 but it is out of stock and isnt produced anymore. This one tho can hold the flashed angled. (amzn.to/34DDHv9) If you plan to shot a lot of weirdly angled images I would consider the one with Arca Swiss mount. - Monopod: Sirui P-326SR Carbon Fibre (amzn.to/3F63QiI) - Wimberley Plamp II PP-200 (amzn.to/3JQBInn) - Emart T-Shape Portable Background Backdrop Support Stand Kit 1.5M (5ft) Wide 2.6M (8.5ft) Height Adjustable Photo Backdrop Stand with 4 Spring Clamps (amzn.to/3tdtik7) - Godox XT32C Wireless Power-Control Flash Trigger Transmitter 2.4G Wireless X System 1/8000s HSS for Canon Cameras, Godox XTR-16 2.4G Wireless X-system (amzn.to/3zG19mI) + (amzn.to/3HWdZQZ) but I would replace it with PRO ST-III Plus 2.4GHz Radio Frequency TTL Flash Trigger with High-Speed Sync (amzn.to/3r41dcb) just pick the right for your camera type - 10 Pieces Adhesive Felt Sheets,Black Velvet Fabric - RIKO400/ Witstro AR400 400Ws Ring Flash amzn.to/3qaj6GU - Syrp Genie Mini II (amzn.to/3nbBTjt) - Turntable for Genie Mini - Nortex Mill Plain Black 100% Polyester Bi-Stretch (amzn.to/3raO5SO) Hope that helps :) Cheers!
Superheroes exist and they live among us. Great video, and such a huge effort! Now you're a known pioneer of photogrammetry. Many thanks for making this content public! :)
Omg, so coool. Didnt know. I am his big fan tho, this guy is awesome and has amazing talent to share his knowledge. His donut was the first thing I ever made in Blender :)
Big thank to you too, trying to do my best and put as much effort as I only can to each one .. yeah.. would be great if they are shared. Feel free to share links to them :) as every single share is a big help for this channel and helps it to grow.
You have gone through a lot of experience while working on Photogrammetry. Many of the things you mentioned in this video weren't known to me. It is insane to think about the amount of tremendous information you put in this single video. Thank you for making this. Definitely subscribing. :)
Thanks Mike, appreciated :). Regarding the Substance part.. that was the plan since the beginning but after I found the video is one hour long I decided to split it into two parts.. one about prop scanning and the other one about scan usage. In the next one than I am going to present how to turn these scans easily into high quality atlas texture sets and how to scatter them across already existing materials but even how to create a totally brand new ones. I was researching this subject since months too and have got very promissing results.. which I am planning to share soon :). This is why I just mentioned this at the end of the video instead of turning it into a 1.5 hours long one :) Cheers!
Thanks, bear in mind that it took me a few years to build this setup, so just be patient and purchase gear one by one picking those you need the most. So I guess.. camera first.. lens.. color checker.. tripod etc. Also its just the option, knowledge is the most important in here as allows you to adjust the workflow to the setup you have. If you know all 'why's you can scan even with you mobile. Cheers!
Fantastic, thanks so much! I've got the Godot and am slowly getting into photogrammetry, the tip for the nz polarizer came just in time as I got stuck on a good solution for that. Definitely follow up with videos on useful ways of using this scan data.
Excellent video, very detailed and clearly explained with nice diagrams and footage to show everything clearly. Thanks for sharing! + great cameo from the dog :)
Thank you for sharing all this, especially the mistakes. It will prevent so much wasted time, money and resources from being wasted. I will watch this over... and over again. Much respect to you!
Thank you very much. The content of this video is not outdated to this day and is full of knowledge points. You can still obtain content knowledge from this video
Thank you and good luck. There is one thing I have changed since this time I made this video. I purchased even better remote flash transmitter - the one which supports TTL. It doesnt change much for this setup but it does when you ever use any Flash with TTL.. so for example if you plan to use part of this setup for Photometric Stereo and use the AD200 flash light as a source of light. SO basically I ended up wih the: PRO ST-III Plus 2.4GHz TTL Flash Trigger with High-Speed Sync & Bluetooth (X2T)
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Thank you very much. I've set up everything here provisionally and take pictures with my mobile phone in RAW format on a turntable. Next, I'll buy the camera and a lens. I also bought a tutorial on photogrammetry. But your video is better suited for studio recording.
Thank you, amazing explanation. Lot's of people saying it's not possible to to photogrammetry without reference in the background - finally someone who can properly explain why this is mis-information and how to do it.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Sad that yo did not get sponsorship from some these brands, as for example the -ScanSpace Ar400 Ring Flash Polarisation Filter it's now SOLD OUT hahaha
Amazing video. I'm excited to learn how you process your scanned 3D objects. How do you create roughness maps for example. I hope we will get a workflow video soon. Keep up the good work!
Thanks. This one is an example of how I used scans, created and modified roughness: ruclips.net/video/5rB7pqPXxSE/видео.html I turned them into an Atlas texture and used this texture to generate material of ploughed earth :). I also presented details of how I created roughness using Substance Designer in one of my previous videos about surface.. it was the one about sand as far as I remember.
Howdy Neighbor! This was a really good video! Thank you for making it! I enjoyed it and the hard work you did for this. I hope you have a wonderful day!!
All I can say, from the bottom of my heart is ...... GOD BLESS YOU Baran ! Lots of love to you Buddy !♥ This video, above all, was honest ! apart from being categorically informative, tightly cut & very well laid out, sequentially ! Keep up the good work.
blender guru andrew price suggest me through me his newsletter.... awesome content sir... subscribed your channel... thank you sir for this amazing tutorial
Outstanding tutorial! Thank you very much...! ... ...and with the best possible ending. 😄 After the dog appearances during the video, we wanted to know how cute he is! 😍
That was a fascinating video. I watched the whole thing from start to finish. Your use of ring flash to illuminate your subjects is something that had not occurred to me. Managing to keep the subject properly centred and securely held in place can be very time consuming. Working out the best way to maximise the available depth of field is another task that consumes a lot of my time when engaging in photogrammetry. Once all that is figured out, taking the photos themselves is fairly straightforward.
Wow, we built a scanner at our Makerspace ourselves using the OpenScan System with a stepper motor and a turntable from Ikea which can hold quite a bit of weight. I still had always problems with the lighting. I never thought to use a ring light since we built the lights ourselves. Great job and amazing walkthrough!
Yeah, the light is definitelly a tricky subject and needs some calculations and supportive camera setting. This is why I suggested to shot a few test images before to make sure that we utilise dynamic range properly. And big thanks for kind words.. very appreciated :)
If your stepper motor and turntable from IKEA ends up being too small or not accurate enough, Iconasys has different size and capacity software-controlled photography turntables. iconasys.com/applications/photogrammetry-3d-models
Genialne! Prawdziwe kompendium wiedzy. Ten film to czyste złoto. Widząc twoje zmagania z materią -polecam zainteresowac sie kupnem drukarki 3d. Np Ender 3 v2 - tania jak barszcz, a otwiera drogę do tworzenia tysiecy przydatnych narzędzi. // Epic! A real compendium of knowledge. This movie is pure gold. Seeing your struggles with the matter - I recommend that you buy a 3d printer. Eg Ender 3 v2 - dirt cheap, and opens the way to the creation of thousands of useful tools.
Dzieki wielkie :) Najpierw musze uzbierac na drukarke a mam jeszcze kilka projektow przez soba, ktore chce pchnac w pierwszej kolejnosci a moga mnie one sporo kosztowac.
Ever tried reality capture? I used to work in metashape but it was just so slow. With reality capture i can align the images in less than 3min and do a 200mil poly mesh in an hour. The only downside is that its perpetual licence is very expensive. But i convinced my boss to buy it and i'm using it for everything now.
Yes I did but not for private use. Reality Capture was way to expensive for me and I never was a big fan of subscription model they offered. I purchased the Metashape 5 years ago for 130USD and I still use it while getting all updates for free. As far as I know Reality Capture is still faster but not as much as it used to. Also reconstruction quality is totally comparable between RC and Metashape, not mentioning improved resource management so the Metashape doesnt need super strong PC anymore. Regarding image alignment.. you can also align images in 3 minutes with the Metashape, it depends on the setting you chose and amount of images used. I am working on a comparison video where I compare Reality Capture, Metashape, 3DF Zephyr and Meshroom since about a year. To be honest.. one of initial reasons I built the setup which is the subject of this video was to scan some props I can use in this comparison :). I might never finish this video tho as this is not the only one I am working on since over a year. Another one is the one which covers Photometric Stereo reconstruction.. its also an ongoing one :).
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Oh, you're aligning images in 3min? strange, i have to wait 10min for "matching points" and half an hour for "camera locations". i'm trying to align 300 cameras with the highest alignment settings and 80,000 points, and it's a model scan not a texture scan, maybe that's the problem. What are your alignment settings? Also would love to see that comparison video!
@@jvolto Not at all.. every software moves forward.. as I mentioned Metashape has changed a lot recently. And of course a lot depends on setting used. You can set the amount of points to 40million and it will take hours. But if you do that with the RC the result will be exactly the same. Anyway, just for you I took the scan of the small soil lump you can see on this video when I talk about the dirt sitting on the platform. It was captured with 174 RAW images in 24Mpx and I processed directly these RAW files without any postprocessing. For reconstruction I used Metashape 1.7.2. I didnt mask any images. I used default high quality setting for the alignment with generic preselection active and default key point setting: Accuracy: Highest Key Point Limit: 40,000 Tie point limit: 4000 The full alignment took 2mins 32secs But to compare I grabbed 3DF Zephyr Lite in version 5.019 and I processed the same images there with General setting with everything set by default. The image alignment took there 2 mins 12 secs I used the PC config described in my video about bakers.. so nothing fancy. Hope that helps :)
I got on my own as far as camera, lens, software, small tripod, and realized I needed a turntable for the small things I want to do. This just filled in ALL the blanks I would have had to fight through to do the smaller things I want to try that are not nature. Nice.........
great work, as always. onkly thing i would add, is to always try to extend centre column on the tripod as less as possible, since you only adding vibrations to the camera . i know it come handy, but stiil. your tripod is already probably on weak side with all stuff on top. but then again,, exposure times is short enough that shake is not intruduced..
Yeah, with the flash and such short exposure time all vibrations get frozen and never were the issue, especially that the capture is fully automated so I dont walk around adding additional floor vibration. Vibration become an issue with LED light being used or with significantly increased magnification levels. In this case the solution is to add more delay time between each shots to let camera calm down (optionally use electronic shutter with the LED light so we dont get any vibrations from the shutter movement).
Thanks, no worries. Going to cover 'software' side next time :). Still not sure should I cover reconstruction process and automasking in a separate video or do quick preview in the one I am planning to make to cover atlas textures tho. Different apps have slightly different tools for automasking but if you know how it works its quite easy if the capture was well done.
One thing I'd say is - don't be afraid to use full-frame cameras. I've tried with both sensor types and the full-frame cameras having physically bigger photosites is a big advantage in both lower noise and overall sharper image. Also even something as old as the original Canon EOS 5D works very well if you have enough light and a sharp lens on it - I've done 3D scanning that way too with fantastic end results (I have a couple of those as just "banger" cameras to carry around for daily walk purposes). High resolution cameras help with more getting more detail, but that mostly applies to scanning very large objects (such as buildings), since with small objects you're likely to have way more resolution across all the angles than you'd realistically need anyway.
I think its not that simple. I used both cameras and currently I use a full frame one. Smaller sensor isnt always a disadvantage and has nothing with noise level in controlled lighting conditions. Smaller sensor usually offers higher physical resolution per same focal length. Since smaller sensor captures cropped image, it also get rid of all these side distortions like perspective one, or vignetting, which can be very significant if you dont use a very expensive and fancy lens and shot in wider focal lenght. These are noticeable when we deal with kit lenses.. I tested these but havent make a video about that yet. So cropped sensor and full frame sensor are totally fine for purpose of props capture. Since full frame is simply physically larger, it allows more light to get in proportionally - but it matters in limited light conditions really which isnt really the case here. Regardign image resolution: you are right that larger resolution is better as it allows us to capture more information per image. But in practice, more images under different angles are always better to less images but in higher resolution. So the choice between crop and full frame sensor isnt as obvious and if you deal with small subjects in controlled, indoor lighting environment, the crop sensor is a better solution. Full frame is a better for outdoor captures. I would say that in both cases, its really the lens which seems to be more important here, not the actual, physical sensor size. So in my opinion, both: full frame and cropped one are fine. Last but not least, images captured with high resolution cameras might very easily become a bottleneck for photogrammetry reconstruction - due to memory constraints and processing time. So for example, when I use a Sony A7R4 camera even with SONYs high quality flag lenses, I still dont use its full resolution 60Mpx matrix in full frame mode, but I use the cropped mode instead.
Great video! Instead of the Syrp Genie Mini one could also buy a Orangemonkie Foldio360. It's not battery powered. It can carry 5kg instead of 4kg and also has an app with the similar settings. It can trigger your camera remotely via infrared, but you need a simple IR extender because the flash light blocks the signal. Mounting clams to it unfortunately won't be possible.
Big thanks. 'Orangemonkie Foldio360' looks interesting. I was considering different turntables but unfortunately didn't see this one. Big thanks for sharing, definitelly worth to consider as its way cheapper.
Iconasys makes nice software controlled photography turntables that sync with a DSLR camera too. (0.7kg-227kg) It automates the capture process and makes getting hundreds and hundreds of images super eays. iconasys.com/360-product-photography-turntables-and-software
Great video Grzegorz! I learned a lot of new things from it :D Btw could you say in your opinion what's the minimum focal length for proper scans? I know it depends on many factors but I'm wondering is there a universal lens for indoor prop scanning like 35mm/50mm or better will be zoom?
Thanks Grzegorz. The answer to your question is very complex as it depends on many things which I called in this video DEPTH OF FIELD DEPENDENCIES. This is why I wanted to share basics of it so everyone can make a concious choice while setting the camera for scanning. Basically it depends on the prop size, its complexity/form and its coverage in the cameras frame. Everything after follows it. Technically the closer you are to the subject, the better as you get stronger light, but if the prop is large, deep and complex.. you need to increase the distance to compensate light falloff since as I said in the video it depends on distance multiplication. So there is no the only one setting. This is why I suggest to a zoom lens for prop scanning. But if you ask me about numbers.. I would say that a zoom lens which covers range between 35-70mm would be enough. The soil lumps I scanned were captured with 50mm focal length (cropped sensor), gargoyle 42mm. Hope that answers your questio :D
excellent tutorial as always, and what a ride, several months and hundrets of dollars later, i guess learning by burning holds true. ever thought about buying a 3d printer ? this would propably save you a lot of money and open up a lot more possibilities, like printing the magnetic polirization holder yourself, or printing your prop holders instead of using toilet paper rolls anyway, nice work !
Thanks a lot. Yeah, I was thinking about the printer but since company or corporation I have a very limited budget to spend on my research and have to prioritise things. The 3D printer is in queue of stuff to get at some point .. but there is still a few things I want to cover first.. dont wanna spoil it though :). Regarding the toilet paper .. .. finally I decided to use the alluminium foil cardboard roll ;P
Thank you, there are way more usage for scans then nanite systems in U5 but yeah.. thats something that is going to utilise scans better and make them way more common. Anyway, I want to focus on material aspect of them and in my new video I am planning to show how to turn a scanned prop into very high quality atlas texture set but also how to scatter them across already existing surfaces to create different variations of them. This way we can also create totally brand new, scan based materials from scratch :). Not mentioning that scans can be used as alpha stamps in zbrush.. or .. scaterred using physics simulation systems :D
Brilliant summary! What is the practical lower size limit for subjects captured like this? Is depth of field the primary limitation and, if so, have you tried focus stacking in place of single images?
Omg!!!! Hey Allan, welcome to my channel and veeeeeery big thanks for watching :). Regarding the subjects size limit.. actually there is no size limit and anything that can be captured with the camera as long as we can provide consistent light and if subject has solid enough surface (isnt too reflective or too transparent) can be used for photogrammetry reconstruction. I know that some folks managed to scan some insects in quite decent quality this way already (without image stacking). In theory image sharpness and surface readability are main constraints. So it doesnt matter if we capture a Statue of Liberty or a small insect.. same rules and expectations applies. If something gets out of focus, we simply need to capture a few additional images with each having enough overlapping space for photogrammetry software to find shared orientation points to combine data from coresponding images together. Technically there is no image limit for 3D processing.. we can process even 50.000 images if we want. I guess that focus stacking would complicate the process a lot and would increase overal capture time but if autmated its doable. I am not sure if focus stacking dont mess with actual data and doesnt blur it too much tho as sharpening is a bit fake. To be honest I would avoid focus stacking and rather capture more images from different angles with different focal points. I also believe that light can be a big challenge for micro captures as ring light has quite long minimum workig distance. So it wold probably need to be some kind of ambient light. So regarding the maximum magnification level for photogrammetry... I wouldnt risk shooting with microscopic objectives as the DOF seems to be too shallow and I would rather use a lens where I can push the apreture size to the diffraction's limit getting as long depth of field as possible. With subjects which has irregular shape, auto focus option might be also very useful. So I guess that 1:1 with macro lens is an easy peasy. Even 1:2.5 magnification with macro lens should be totally fine even if definitelly more challenging. I never achieved anything above 1:3 for standard macro lens but I guess that diffraction at this magnification level limits the effective DOF signifficantly and about 1:5 becomes a real issue. Also I have noticed that at magification levels above x2.5 we start seeing individual elemets substances are made of and in most cases they are half transparent and they might not have enough surface features photogrammetry software can use as navigation points for reconstruction, but it depends on an exact surface type. So as far as I know, its challenging but totally possible to scan small insects like wasps or ants in 3D using photogrammetry and get quite decent detail level. But I personally never did that before :) .. not to mention I am still not mentally ready to deal with insects :D.. they scare me. From the other side, it might be very interesting too see how close I can actually go to the subject with the photogrammetry and find out where is the actual limit :). Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Hi Grzegorz! Thanks for this exhaustive answer - I didn't see this reply until now and we have made a lot of progress along the same lines you describe. We are also encountering a lot of the same difficulties you outline. Your videos remain a very valuable source of information and your work with textures is groundbreaking. Keep up the good work and if you ever get over your dislike of creepy crawlies, get in touch - I think there are opportunities for collaboration! All the best! Allan
Does anyone have a written shopping list for everything aside from the camera and camera tripod?
The list is at [53:17] but I put it down here with reference links, mostly to the British Amazon. Gonna PIN this comment as you are not the first person who asked and EDIT it if I find that I missed something
- Camera - Canon 80D - Considering to switch it to Canon90D or R when this one dies
- Lens: Canon 18-135mm for large props, Canon Macro 105mm for small props.
- Hoya HD Gold Circular Polarisation filter - you need to pick the size correct for your lens diameter
(amzn.to/3qktKLD)
-ScanSpace Ar400 Ring Flash Polarisation Filter
(scanspace.nz/)
- X-Rite ColorChecker Passport - I suggest to purchase an original one from X-Rite
(amzn.to/3zLKY7t)
- Aluminium Manfrotto 190Go! Tripod with twisted locks, no clips as clips are much heavier. Carboon version is about 300 lighter and honestly.. still not sure if it is worth to switch. If I have a choice and a lot of money, I would probably pick the carboon one. But for props scanning it can be any which is stable enough and designed to hold the weight
(amzn.to/3nbzgOD)
Manfrotto XPRO Ball Head with 200PL Quick Release. I used the RC2 but it is out of stock and isnt produced anymore. This one tho can hold the flashed angled.
(amzn.to/34DDHv9)
If you plan to shot a lot of weirdly angled images I would consider the one with Arca Swiss mount.
- Monopod: Sirui P-326SR Carbon Fibre
(amzn.to/3F63QiI)
- Wimberley Plamp II PP-200
(amzn.to/3JQBInn)
- Emart T-Shape Portable Background Backdrop Support Stand Kit 1.5M (5ft) Wide 2.6M (8.5ft) Height Adjustable Photo Backdrop Stand with 4 Spring Clamps
(amzn.to/3tdtik7)
- Godox XT32C Wireless Power-Control Flash Trigger Transmitter 2.4G Wireless X System 1/8000s HSS for Canon Cameras, Godox XTR-16 2.4G Wireless X-system
(amzn.to/3zG19mI) + (amzn.to/3HWdZQZ)
but I would replace it with PRO ST-III Plus 2.4GHz Radio Frequency TTL Flash Trigger with High-Speed Sync
(amzn.to/3r41dcb) just pick the right for your camera type
- 10 Pieces Adhesive Felt Sheets,Black Velvet Fabric
- RIKO400/ Witstro AR400 400Ws Ring Flash
amzn.to/3qaj6GU
- Syrp Genie Mini II
(amzn.to/3nbBTjt)
- Turntable for Genie Mini
- Nortex Mill Plain Black 100% Polyester Bi-Stretch
(amzn.to/3raO5SO)
Hope that helps :)
Cheers!
One of the greatest tutorials I have ever seen. Didn’t even realize how long I was watching until it ended. Thank you keep up the good work
Thank you Leo, very appreciated
Hell yes,, this guy is a wizard
The quality of content on this channel is off the roof. I am glad people like you exist. Thanks.
Omg.. you've just made my day. Thank you soooooooooo much for kind words. Very, very appreciated
@@GrzegorzBaranArt
www.artstation.com/greenwood070 I followed you on artstation and press liked on pretty much all your tutorial pages. :)
The BEST tutorial video I've ever watched!
THIS VIDEO IS RICH!
thank you
Thank you :)
Superheroes exist and they live among us.
Great video, and such a huge effort! Now you're a known pioneer of photogrammetry. Many thanks for making this content public! :)
Thank you for such kind words
Blender guru put this video in his weekly emails
Omg, so coool. Didnt know. I am his big fan tho, this guy is awesome and has amazing talent to share his knowledge. His donut was the first thing I ever made in Blender :)
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Awesome!
Get this man a donut
🙄good for him....
Niesamowicie inspirujące, dziękuję! :)
Best tutorial I have seen!
Thanks, very appreciated
Brilliant job, thanks for including the wrong decisions you made as well, this helps to realise we are all human :)
Thanks John, yeah, mistakes are usually the best way to learn, unfortunately the most expensive one too ;)
It also helps us NOT to buy the cheaper version of things that we think we might be able to get away with
I love your scientific approach to the subject
Cheers!
BIG THANK to you! Your videos are very well done and they should appear on Artstation learning and 80.lv.
Big thank to you too, trying to do my best and put as much effort as I only can to each one .. yeah.. would be great if they are shared.
Feel free to share links to them :) as every single share is a big help for this channel and helps it to grow.
Thank you man, you bought me a lot of precious time!
Amazing tutorial!! You taught me more questions than I ever knew I had. Thank you so much, I’m forever grateful!
I am really happy to hear that :). Cheers!
Great in depth video. Loving the MacGyver fixes you've come up with and hats off for showing your mistakes and learning process.
Thanks, glad to know you enjoyed the video :), Cheers!
You have gone through a lot of experience while working on Photogrammetry. Many of the things you mentioned in this video weren't known to me. It is insane to think about the amount of tremendous information you put in this single video. Thank you for making this. Definitely subscribing. :)
Thanks, very appreciated :)
This was super helpful! Thank you!!
Cheers, appreciated :)
Great video! I love how you keep refining the process to streamline it. Would love to see more on substance designer towards the end.
Thanks Mike, appreciated :). Regarding the Substance part.. that was the plan since the beginning but after I found the video is one hour long I decided to split it into two parts.. one about prop scanning and the other one about scan usage. In the next one than I am going to present how to turn these scans easily into high quality atlas texture sets and how to scatter them across already existing materials but even how to create a totally brand new ones. I was researching this subject since months too and have got very promissing results.. which I am planning to share soon :). This is why I just mentioned this at the end of the video instead of turning it into a 1.5 hours long one :)
Cheers!
Thanks a lot for sharing your findings in such detail. You are Amazing!!!
Thank you and thanks for watching and support, you are amazing too :)
Thank you so much for this detailed and complete guide!
You are welcome. I am really happy to know so many of you found here something useful :). Cheers!
So much value in one video; I just can't believe it. Thank you!
Thank you David, very appreciated
Love it, I can't afford to get into this currently but glad you are here to share the topic. Thank you!
Thanks, bear in mind that it took me a few years to build this setup, so just be patient and purchase gear one by one picking those you need the most. So I guess.. camera first.. lens.. color checker.. tripod etc. Also its just the option, knowledge is the most important in here as allows you to adjust the workflow to the setup you have. If you know all 'why's you can scan even with you mobile. Cheers!
amazing... very thorough great job
Thanks :)
Thank you for sharing your valuable learning. Good luck to you and your family!
Thank you very much. Same to you
Just brilliant. I’ve been through many of the same learnings as you. Wish I’d come across this earlier!
Cheers Daniel!
Fantastic, thanks so much! I've got the Godot and am slowly getting into photogrammetry, the tip for the nz polarizer came just in time as I got stuck on a good solution for that. Definitely follow up with videos on useful ways of using this scan data.
You are welcome, glad to know you found something useful for yourself in here :). Cheers!
Excellent video, very detailed and clearly explained with nice diagrams and footage to show everything clearly. Thanks for sharing! + great cameo from the dog :)
Thank you Barnyz :), appreciated
Thanks for such an in-depth video of your setup. Extremely helpful
You are welcome Johan
Excellent and thorough setup. Thank you!
Cheers! :)
60mn of learning and pur sharing, no crap no usless talk! You are helping me a lot for my future setup....You are the best.
Cheers dude! Appreciated
Thank you for sharing all this, especially the mistakes. It will prevent so much wasted time, money and resources from being wasted. I will watch this over... and over again. Much respect to you!
Glad to know you found something useful in here :) Cheers!
BIG THANK YOU
very helpful video. very well and thoroughly explained.
Thanks, doing my best :D
This video isn't a tutorial on photogrammetry, it's a complete walkthrough on perservation in the face of technical set backs
Cheers :D
Best 3d scanning tutorial out there!
Wow, thanks!
Wow! you went through a lot, but the results were worth it
Incredible video thank you!
You are welcome :)
Travail extraordinaire. Un grand merci de Paris !
Merci Manuel :)
Thank you for this video!!
You are welcome
Thank you very much. The content of this video is not outdated to this day and is full of knowledge points. You can still obtain content knowledge from this video
Happy to hear that, and you are very welcome
This is a very honest video. You described all of your mistakes. Thanks for that. I am now trying to copy your setup.
Thank you and good luck. There is one thing I have changed since this time I made this video. I purchased even better remote flash transmitter - the one which supports TTL. It doesnt change much for this setup but it does when you ever use any Flash with TTL.. so for example if you plan to use part of this setup for Photometric Stereo and use the AD200 flash light as a source of light. SO basically I ended up wih the: PRO ST-III Plus 2.4GHz TTL Flash Trigger with High-Speed Sync & Bluetooth (X2T)
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Thank you very much. I've set up everything here provisionally and take pictures with my mobile phone in RAW format on a turntable. Next, I'll buy the camera and a lens. I also bought a tutorial on photogrammetry. But your video is better suited for studio recording.
Thank you so much for sharing this work! Amazing
You are welcome
Amazing video, thanks a lot.
Hey Timo! Big thanks
WOW this video is Amazing. Well made!!
Thank you Bjorn, very appreciated
Thank you, amazing explanation. Lot's of people saying it's not possible to to photogrammetry without reference in the background - finally someone who can properly explain why this is mis-information and how to do it.
Thanks :)
Absolutely brilliant content! I’m sure I’ll be reviewing what you thought us soon. It was so easy to hit the subscribe button. Cheers for sharing
Thanks a lot and welcome to my channel
Powaliłeś mnie szczegółowym podejściem do filmu. Proszę o więcej, subscribed.
Milo mi to slyszec :) Dziekowac i witam na moim kanale
Brilliant! Thank you👍
No problem 👍
!!!!AWESOME!!!!
Thank you :D
Excellent, thank you.
Thanks and you are welcome :)
This video is great! I've been looking for information on this sort of photogrammetry for a while and I don't know how I didn't find it sooner.
Glad to know it and hopefully welcome to my channel :)
Perfect video. Period.
Thank you, appreciated
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Sad that yo did not get sponsorship from some these brands, as for example the -ScanSpace Ar400 Ring Flash Polarisation Filter it's now SOLD OUT hahaha
@@dm.b7560 By being sponsored I risk my independency and freedom which I veeeeery appreciate
Amazing video.
I'm excited to learn how you process your scanned 3D objects.
How do you create roughness maps for example. I hope we will get a workflow video soon.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks. This one is an example of how I used scans, created and modified roughness: ruclips.net/video/5rB7pqPXxSE/видео.html
I turned them into an Atlas texture and used this texture to generate material of ploughed earth :). I also presented details of how I created roughness using Substance Designer in one of my previous videos about surface.. it was the one about sand as far as I remember.
Fantastic explanation. Thanks a lot !!
You are welcome :)
Fantastic educational video, presented with style!
Thank you :)
Great info. Thanks a lot!
No probs, anytime :)
Marvelous explination! Thank you, very much. 😃
Thank you and you are very welcome
Thank you for showing us a professional way to use quality camera set up for best photogammetry results..subscribed!
You are welcome
WHAT A QUALITY CONTENT !!!
Thanks, doing my best :)
wanted to skip trough video but somehow without noticing have been watching it for 1/2h already! amazing video! thank you for sharing your experience!
:D
thank you! your process of in this video is really what i needed, i learned a lot👏
You are welcome
many thanks for tutorials , great help :)
anytime, always happy to help :)
thanks a lot! awesome explanation!
You are welcome :)
Brilliant work i feel like i learned a lot! Thank you very much!
Happy to hear that. Cheers!
Howdy Neighbor! This was a really good video! Thank you for making it! I enjoyed it and the hard work you did for this. I hope you have a wonderful day!!
Cheers Paul :) very appreciated. Have a lovely day too ❤️
All I can say, from the bottom of my heart is ...... GOD BLESS YOU Baran ! Lots of love to you Buddy !♥
This video, above all, was honest ! apart from being categorically informative, tightly cut & very well laid out, sequentially !
Keep up the good work.
Thank you, very appreciated
muchas gracias, muy bien explicado , muy completo
De nada, feliz de saber que :)
this is such a great video, thank you so much!
Thanks, you are welcome :)
blender guru andrew price suggest me through me his newsletter....
awesome content sir...
subscribed your channel...
thank you sir for this amazing tutorial
hey, I am very happy to know you've found something useful in here .. and welcome to my channel :)
this is a great video ty for taking the time and effort to help others.
No probs, doing my best :)
Amazing video! Very well put together, with loads of useful field information. Thank you very much :)
You are welcome. I am glad you found it enjoyable
awesome work, cheers!
Thanks, very appreciated
honestly thanks for all this
You are very welcome Thomas :)
Outstanding tutorial! Thank you very much...!
...
...and with the best possible ending. 😄 After the dog appearances during the video, we wanted to know how cute he is! 😍
Thank you :) very much. Yeah, he is sweet :)
hermano, entiendo todo el esfuerzo que debe haber significado hacer este video, increíble. Gracias!
Gracias eres muy bienvenido compañero :)
Awesome
Cheers!
That was a fascinating video. I watched the whole thing from start to finish. Your use of ring flash to illuminate your subjects is something that had not occurred to me. Managing to keep the subject properly centred and securely held in place can be very time consuming. Working out the best way to maximise the available depth of field is another task that consumes a lot of my time when engaging in photogrammetry. Once all that is figured out, taking the photos themselves is fairly straightforward.
Cheers, hope this video was helpful to improve your photogrammetry workflow :)
Bravo, really enjoyed your journey with this project 👍
Glad to hear that
Wow, we built a scanner at our Makerspace ourselves using the OpenScan System with a stepper motor and a turntable from Ikea which can hold quite a bit of weight. I still had always problems with the lighting. I never thought to use a ring light since we built the lights ourselves. Great job and amazing walkthrough!
Yeah, the light is definitelly a tricky subject and needs some calculations and supportive camera setting. This is why I suggested to shot a few test images before to make sure that we utilise dynamic range properly. And big thanks for kind words.. very appreciated :)
If your stepper motor and turntable from IKEA ends up being too small or not accurate enough, Iconasys has different size and capacity software-controlled photography turntables. iconasys.com/applications/photogrammetry-3d-models
Genialne! Prawdziwe kompendium wiedzy. Ten film to czyste złoto. Widząc twoje zmagania z materią -polecam zainteresowac sie kupnem drukarki 3d. Np Ender 3 v2 - tania jak barszcz, a otwiera drogę do tworzenia tysiecy przydatnych narzędzi. // Epic! A real compendium of knowledge. This movie is pure gold. Seeing your struggles with the matter - I recommend that you buy a 3d printer. Eg Ender 3 v2 - dirt cheap, and opens the way to the creation of thousands of useful tools.
Dzieki wielkie :) Najpierw musze uzbierac na drukarke a mam jeszcze kilka projektow przez soba, ktore chce pchnac w pierwszej kolejnosci a moga mnie one sporo kosztowac.
Ever tried reality capture? I used to work in metashape but it was just so slow. With reality capture i can align the images in less than 3min and do a 200mil poly mesh in an hour.
The only downside is that its perpetual licence is very expensive. But i convinced my boss to buy it and i'm using it for everything now.
Yes I did but not for private use. Reality Capture was way to expensive for me and I never was a big fan of subscription model they offered. I purchased the Metashape 5 years ago for 130USD and I still use it while getting all updates for free. As far as I know Reality Capture is still faster but not as much as it used to. Also reconstruction quality is totally comparable between RC and Metashape, not mentioning improved resource management so the Metashape doesnt need super strong PC anymore.
Regarding image alignment.. you can also align images in 3 minutes with the Metashape, it depends on the setting you chose and amount of images used.
I am working on a comparison video where I compare Reality Capture, Metashape, 3DF Zephyr and Meshroom since about a year. To be honest.. one of initial reasons I built the setup which is the subject of this video was to scan some props I can use in this comparison :). I might never finish this video tho as this is not the only one I am working on since over a year. Another one is the one which covers Photometric Stereo reconstruction.. its also an ongoing one :).
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Oh, you're aligning images in 3min? strange, i have to wait 10min for "matching points" and half an hour for "camera locations". i'm trying to align 300 cameras with the highest alignment settings and 80,000 points, and it's a model scan not a texture scan, maybe that's the problem.
What are your alignment settings?
Also would love to see that comparison video!
@@jvolto Not at all.. every software moves forward.. as I mentioned Metashape has changed a lot recently. And of course a lot depends on setting used. You can set the amount of points to 40million and it will take hours. But if you do that with the RC the result will be exactly the same.
Anyway, just for you I took the scan of the small soil lump you can see on this video when I talk about the dirt sitting on the platform. It was captured with 174 RAW images in 24Mpx and I processed directly these RAW files without any postprocessing. For reconstruction I used Metashape 1.7.2. I didnt mask any images. I used default high quality setting for the alignment with generic preselection active and default key point setting:
Accuracy: Highest
Key Point Limit: 40,000
Tie point limit: 4000
The full alignment took 2mins 32secs
But to compare I grabbed 3DF Zephyr Lite in version 5.019 and I processed the same images there with General setting with everything set by default. The image alignment took there
2 mins 12 secs
I used the PC config described in my video about bakers.. so nothing fancy. Hope that helps :)
I got on my own as far as camera, lens, software, small tripod, and realized I needed a turntable for the small things I want to do. This just filled in ALL the blanks I would have had to fight through to do the smaller things I want to try that are not nature. Nice.........
Glad to hear that. A good turntable can make the job much easier :)
great work, as always. onkly thing i would add, is to always try to extend centre column on the tripod as less as possible, since you only adding vibrations to the camera . i know it come handy, but stiil. your tripod is already probably on weak side with all stuff on top. but then again,, exposure times is short enough that shake is not intruduced..
Yeah, with the flash and such short exposure time all vibrations get frozen and never were the issue, especially that the capture is fully automated so I dont walk around adding additional floor vibration. Vibration become an issue with LED light being used or with significantly increased magnification levels. In this case the solution is to add more delay time between each shots to let camera calm down (optionally use electronic shutter with the LED light so we dont get any vibrations from the shutter movement).
Great work 👍😊
Thank you Peter
Great video. That said the software side of things might be the more problematic topic.
Thanks, no worries. Going to cover 'software' side next time :). Still not sure should I cover reconstruction process and automasking in a separate video or do quick preview in the one I am planning to make to cover atlas textures tho. Different apps have slightly different tools for automasking but if you know how it works its quite easy if the capture was well done.
Thanks so much for this video
You are welcome
YEESSSSSSS - they sent you a Peanut Slab!! Kiwi confectionery icon!
One thing I'd say is - don't be afraid to use full-frame cameras. I've tried with both sensor types and the full-frame cameras having physically bigger photosites is a big advantage in both lower noise and overall sharper image.
Also even something as old as the original Canon EOS 5D works very well if you have enough light and a sharp lens on it - I've done 3D scanning that way too with fantastic end results (I have a couple of those as just "banger" cameras to carry around for daily walk purposes). High resolution cameras help with more getting more detail, but that mostly applies to scanning very large objects (such as buildings), since with small objects you're likely to have way more resolution across all the angles than you'd realistically need anyway.
I think its not that simple. I used both cameras and currently I use a full frame one. Smaller sensor isnt always a disadvantage and has nothing with noise level in controlled lighting conditions. Smaller sensor usually offers higher physical resolution per same focal length. Since smaller sensor captures cropped image, it also get rid of all these side distortions like perspective one, or vignetting, which can be very significant if you dont use a very expensive and fancy lens and shot in wider focal lenght. These are noticeable when we deal with kit lenses.. I tested these but havent make a video about that yet.
So cropped sensor and full frame sensor are totally fine for purpose of props capture. Since full frame is simply physically larger, it allows more light to get in proportionally - but it matters in limited light conditions really which isnt really the case here.
Regardign image resolution: you are right that larger resolution is better as it allows us to capture more information per image. But in practice, more images under different angles are always better to less images but in higher resolution. So the choice between crop and full frame sensor isnt as obvious and if you deal with small subjects in controlled, indoor lighting environment, the crop sensor is a better solution. Full frame is a better for outdoor captures. I would say that in both cases, its really the lens which seems to be more important here, not the actual, physical sensor size.
So in my opinion, both: full frame and cropped one are fine.
Last but not least, images captured with high resolution cameras might very easily become a bottleneck for photogrammetry reconstruction - due to memory constraints and processing time. So for example, when I use a Sony A7R4 camera even with SONYs high quality flag lenses, I still dont use its full resolution 60Mpx matrix in full frame mode, but I use the cropped mode instead.
Video nice
Cheers!
Very good video!!!
Thank you Alexandre :)
Dobra robota!
Dziekuje!
Im only 13min on but had to comment already what a wonderful tutorial!
Thanks, appreciate the comment :), hope it was also fun to watch after 13min :)
excellent video with some great tips, should have subscribed ages ago ;-)
Thank you and welcome to my channel then :)
Great video! Instead of the Syrp Genie Mini one could also buy a Orangemonkie Foldio360. It's not battery powered. It can carry 5kg instead of 4kg and also has an app with the similar settings. It can trigger your camera remotely via infrared, but you need a simple IR extender because the flash light blocks the signal.
Mounting clams to it unfortunately won't be possible.
Big thanks. 'Orangemonkie Foldio360' looks interesting. I was considering different turntables but unfortunately didn't see this one. Big thanks for sharing, definitelly worth to consider as its way cheapper.
Iconasys makes nice software controlled photography turntables that sync with a DSLR camera too. (0.7kg-227kg) It automates the capture process and makes getting hundreds and hundreds of images super eays. iconasys.com/360-product-photography-turntables-and-software
Thanks!
Thank you :)
I see you are a man of culture as well
Cheers!
Great video Grzegorz! I learned a lot of new things from it :D Btw could you say in your opinion what's the minimum focal length for proper scans? I know it depends on many factors but I'm wondering is there a universal lens for indoor prop scanning like 35mm/50mm or better will be zoom?
Thanks Grzegorz. The answer to your question is very complex as it depends on many things which I called in this video DEPTH OF FIELD DEPENDENCIES. This is why I wanted to share basics of it so everyone can make a concious choice while setting the camera for scanning. Basically it depends on the prop size, its complexity/form and its coverage in the cameras frame. Everything after follows it. Technically the closer you are to the subject, the better as you get stronger light, but if the prop is large, deep and complex.. you need to increase the distance to compensate light falloff since as I said in the video it depends on distance multiplication.
So there is no the only one setting. This is why I suggest to a zoom lens for prop scanning. But if you ask me about numbers.. I would say that a zoom lens which covers range between 35-70mm would be enough. The soil lumps I scanned were captured with 50mm focal length (cropped sensor), gargoyle 42mm. Hope that answers your questio :D
excellent tutorial as always, and what a ride, several months and hundrets of dollars later, i guess learning by burning holds true.
ever thought about buying a 3d printer ? this would propably save you a lot of money and open up a lot more possibilities, like printing the magnetic polirization holder yourself, or printing your prop holders instead of using toilet paper rolls
anyway, nice work !
Thanks a lot. Yeah, I was thinking about the printer but since company or corporation I have a very limited budget to spend on my research and have to prioritise things. The 3D printer is in queue of stuff to get at some point .. but there is still a few things I want to cover first.. dont wanna spoil it though :). Regarding the toilet paper .. .. finally I decided to use the alluminium foil cardboard roll ;P
thanks!
You are welcome :)
I've learned so much, you're a real pro! Are you excited about being able to use photogrammetry scans in Unreal Engine 5?
Thank you, there are way more usage for scans then nanite systems in U5 but yeah.. thats something that is going to utilise scans better and make them way more common. Anyway, I want to focus on material aspect of them and in my new video I am planning to show how to turn a scanned prop into very high quality atlas texture set but also how to scatter them across already existing surfaces to create different variations of them. This way we can also create totally brand new, scan based materials from scratch :).
Not mentioning that scans can be used as alpha stamps in zbrush.. or .. scaterred using physics simulation systems :D
Brilliant summary! What is the practical lower size limit for subjects captured like this? Is depth of field the primary limitation and, if so, have you tried focus stacking in place of single images?
Omg!!!! Hey Allan, welcome to my channel and veeeeeery big thanks for watching :).
Regarding the subjects size limit.. actually there is no size limit and anything that can be captured with the camera as long as we can provide consistent light and if subject has solid enough surface (isnt too reflective or too transparent) can be used for photogrammetry reconstruction. I know that some folks managed to scan some insects in quite decent quality this way already (without image stacking). In theory image sharpness and surface readability are main constraints. So it doesnt matter if we capture a Statue of Liberty or a small insect.. same rules and expectations applies. If something gets out of focus, we simply need to capture a few additional images with each having enough overlapping space for photogrammetry software to find shared orientation points to combine data from coresponding images together. Technically there is no image limit for 3D processing.. we can process even 50.000 images if we want.
I guess that focus stacking would complicate the process a lot and would increase overal capture time but if autmated its doable.
I am not sure if focus stacking dont mess with actual data and doesnt blur it too much tho as sharpening is a bit fake. To be honest I would avoid focus stacking and rather capture more images from different angles with different focal points. I also believe that light can be a big challenge for micro captures as ring light has quite long minimum workig distance. So it wold probably need to be some kind of ambient light.
So regarding the maximum magnification level for photogrammetry... I wouldnt risk shooting with microscopic objectives as the DOF seems to be too shallow and I would rather use a lens where I can push the apreture size to the diffraction's limit getting as long depth of field as possible. With subjects which has irregular shape, auto focus option might be also very useful.
So I guess that 1:1 with macro lens is an easy peasy. Even 1:2.5 magnification with macro lens should be totally fine even if definitelly more challenging. I never achieved anything above 1:3 for standard macro lens but I guess that diffraction at this magnification level limits the effective DOF signifficantly and about 1:5 becomes a real issue. Also I have noticed that at magification levels above x2.5 we start seeing individual elemets substances are made of and in most cases they are half transparent and they might not have enough surface features photogrammetry software can use as navigation points for reconstruction, but it depends on an exact surface type.
So as far as I know, its challenging but totally possible to scan small insects like wasps or ants in 3D using photogrammetry and get quite decent detail level. But I personally never did that before :) .. not to mention I am still not mentally ready to deal with insects :D.. they scare me. From the other side, it might be very interesting too see how close I can actually go to the subject with the photogrammetry and find out where is the actual limit :).
Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Hi Grzegorz! Thanks for this exhaustive answer - I didn't see this reply until now and we have made a lot of progress along the same lines you describe. We are also encountering a lot of the same difficulties you outline. Your videos remain a very valuable source of information and your work with textures is groundbreaking. Keep up the good work and if you ever get over your dislike of creepy crawlies, get in touch - I think there are opportunities for collaboration! All the best! Allan
Thanks for video ^_^
Hey Alex, you are welcome :)