I spend this afternoon (-30C outside) watching your videos on the Ender 3 Pro... then ordered one off Amazon. I have flagged every upgrade and Thingiverse mod that you mentioned in each of your videos... Thanks for a series of fantastic videos- clear, concise, and no questions of where you got something. I have great faith of what to expect, and how to tweak it into an epic monster!
Pull those dampers off and throw a new mainboard in with either 2208's or 2209's in it. My E3 Pro has the Creality silent board running 1.1.9 Marlin and it is whisper quiet, no whine at all, just fan noise.
Whilst looking into buying a 3D printer, finding the Creality E3P, I stumbled upon your videos.. And I must say, I like your style; being your camera man, narrator and mechanic at the same time, cudos! You also helped me to decide whether or not it would make sense investing in this device. Since you clearly have had time and experience with this particular machine it's clear it's well worth the price. Subbed to keep track of your insightful videos, can't promise to be a faithful 'new upload buster' ;)
Dimitri yeh the same with me I have had two Malyan m200 in the past two years simply because they are super cheap so when one died I just bought another and ive finally been able to spend money on a new printer all though I can’t afford the pro 😂
For the bowden tube, when putting it in the hot end, make sure to secure the push fit connector to the tube first, and make sure the spacer that holds the movable part away from the metal bit is secured in place. This will grab the tube, so that when you tighten the nut, it will actually put pressure down. The way done in the video is probably okay, but what he described versus what he did were to entirely different things.
When putting in new ptfe tubing, loosen nozzle 1/4 turn, heat up hotend, press tubing all the way in, tighten nozzle snugly. It will also help ensure that filament doesnt leak by the contact area of tubing and nozzle.
Vlad, many thanks for these videos, my Pro is with UPS right now, so I will be looking at adding these mods to my machine very shortly. Really appreciate your work here, and showing how much effect they have on the final prints.
I was amazed too on how effective those dampers are. As I had the same problem with the y-axis motor hitting the bed after adding a damper there (to an extent where it did not even reach the limit switch) I found a solution on ebay that is just an about 1 - 2 mm thin sheet of temp resistant silicon, predrilled holes, ready to install for the Nema motors. That worked as good as the dampers like yours but helped to not have to do anything weird with the motor spindle. And no more hitting the bed and no preventing to hit the limit switch.
They have black and blue square pads made of different compounds of rubber at any plumbing supply place, they are anti vibration pads and they would match the ender perfectly and are like a buck or two a piece brother. For the feet I mean...
I wouldn't faff around with stepper motor dampers. You can get the BigTree SKR E3 Mini, which is a drop-in replacement for the Creality main board, for under $30. This has trinamic stepper drivers and once installed, the motors are near silent. I must say I was skeptical but I was amazed at the difference. The loudest thing is now the fan in the electronics box. I'm tempted to remove that or replace it with a Noctua fan.
I assembled already my new 3D printer which is identical to your printer. I want to upgrade exactly the same with your printer. Where I can get or buy the program to print the parts for my printer? Greetings from one of your subscribers from Canada 🇨🇦
warning putting foam under the printer will make it silent but will make it shake too and cause problems in long wrong sometimes. so be careful. I had a lot of layer line issues that were slightly shifting
Honestly you should have more likes there's a reason CNC machines and Lathes etc.. have concrete and weighted bases it's to dampen resonance frequencies foam padding does nothing to help other than hide or mask some of these and in some cases can cause more problems than they solve.
I was thinking the same thing with the stepper motor dampeners. Wasn't it just last video he put in the one way boards to make sure the stepper motors stopped faster to keep it from being off on the layering ? Now this one he put dampeners in between the frame and stepper motor that will make them able to shift more. Isn't that a little one step forward and 2 back ?
thanks. I too love my ender 3 pro and will proceed with the dampers and I also have the metal extruder\boden upgrade. I also got the Swiss hot end I will install. I have a set of pullers and I'm also looking for a wider or longer gear.
I got to 5m55s when I was blown away by the fact that you've been posting 3d printer videos for 9 months without owning a craft knife or a scalpel! (nice vid, keep it up fella)
8:42 You should have unscrewed that nut a little bit like you did for the hot end. That would have forced the end of the tube up against the inside wall of the red extruder, and further into the "teeth" of the holding nut when tightening it, thus lessening tube movements to almost zero during feeding/retractions. The way you did it will still allow the tube to move slightly anywhere from 1-2mm (or more over time), and that is even with the clip in place and using Cap tubing, because it's outer diameter is exactly the same as the stock tubing). I loosened mine almost one full turn before inserting the tube, and then tightened it, and now my stock tube barley moves a fraction of a millimetre at that location, which helped cleaned up the surface of my prints, and allowed me to set my retraction distance to a much lower number.
Sticking the foam piece underneath the printer was the first thing I did. And DAAAAAAMN, it really does make a huge difference! Waiting for my X/Y dampers to take it to the next level, haha.
People replace the flexible magnetic bed because either the flexible bed itself is warped, or their heatbed underneath is warped and the flexible bed follows the warped contour of the heatbed. Either problem affects print quality and makes it extremely difficult to properly level the bed, so by replacing the flexible magnetic bed with borosilicate glass you eliminate both of those issues. It's a fairly cheap fix, the Creality borosilicate glass bed costs ~$20. I've also heard of people using a section of mirror glass, I wouldn't recommend that because mirror glass isn't able to handle thermal shock as well as borosilicate glass and may crack/shatter/explode after being rapidly heated and cooled so many times.
To answer your ? slicepage YES! and when when he said after beating pounding the shafts it may come out this side I thought no S%!+ but I will sat I have a pro and I have it sitting on the shipping foam cut out the section under the board for air flow and I have had no issues with noise
My Capricorn tubing arrived perfectly cut.. Also, I’ve been hammering at one of the motor rods for right about 40 minutes, and it hasn’t moved even a millimeter. I’m using the exact same tool mix that yer using, and all I’ve done was damage my table some
A tip for getting a 90 degree cut on the tube - put the tube into the fitting so that it protrudes a bit from the bottom, and using the end of the brass fitting as a guide, slice the tube so that it is flush with the brass fitting. Oh yeah - and has been noted. Invest a couple of bucks in an X-Acto knife (or similar).
im looking to replace my bed because my aluminium base plate is warped. not to the point of being un-usable, but i have to put a fat raft on all of my prints to get any 1st/2nd adheasion. hoping a glass bed will be abit flatter
I got mine in a package that included the metal extruder, though I have yet to fit it. I am running it using the basic slicer that comes with it, and am getting beautiful prints right out of the box. The only problem I have spotted so far is that there is an error in the assembly instructions relating to the placement of the Z axis limit switch. Rather than placing it at 32mm height, simply place it as low as the spur that has been newly added to the part will allow. The spur rests on the base extrusion. I have printed some upgrades to the filament path that seem to be popular, but so far they have caused more trouble than the original configuration. Granted there may be weaker parts that need replacement over time, but I think a lot of these upgrade projects are not necessary, and I am not the only one saying this. Both CHEP, and Salanderer have videos that say the same thing. The upgrades are fun, but they are also great subject matter for videos whether they really work better than the basic machine or not.
I wonder if instead of using those specialized rubber dampers, you cut a sheet of thin rubber or like an inner tube to put in between the motors and the mounting plate. I know you would still have contact through the bolts but it might make it better.
You added the motor dampers which pretty much completely eliminated the 'salmon skin' artifacts, but another possible cause I've heard of is the belt teeth running along a smooth idler bearing surface (which I see is used on at least the Y-axis of the Ender 3), it can introduce a vibration that can cause salmon skin. It doesn't look like it's much of an issue though on the Ender 3.
To have a tight fitting, tighten the coupling first then heat the nozzle to 230 or so, unscrew the nozzle half thread, push the nozzle all the way through until it touches the nozzle and then tight the nozzle back.
another method is a little simpler. tighten nozzle all the way (retighten hot) loosen coupler 2 turns. insert ptfe seat it and the release clip into place. THEN finish tightening the coupler the last 2 turns. perfect mating every time. fast easy painless and fool proof.
Have you replaced bed springs yet with the amazon orange ones? Id like to see you upgrade to those or even better the silicone stabilizers and do another benchy
I've done that recently... just ordinary stiff springs, not "painted" orange ones. It's made a huge difference to my prints... They're better... I got 20 of them for less than a fiver.
I've printed 3 stabilising cylinders that catch the screw and the spring (they both have their own space, with a small ring between the screw and spring), so the springs can not make the awfull S-shape anymore when the bed might be leveled down a reasonable amount, to shop the bed shifting from travelling movements. It helped quite a bit in limiting the bed shifting because of fast travelling. The base of the cylinders is quite large so the screws stay upright as much as possible. There also is a 3.5 mm high base that the springs rest on so they have much more force in pushing the bed up, which helped even more (I used several small metal rings below the springs at first, but they could shift position just like the springs, and while it definitely was an improvement, it wasn't a very good one.
Did the fan mod works great my benchy prints are a lot nicer the only problem I'm getting is a retraction line going down one side of the boat anyway this can be fix thank for the video as well
The Filler spool holder won't work properly when side mounted like that, the inside of the spool will rub on the brace part a lot of the time. You really want the spool to be resting solely on the round cylinder with the bearings, which you can't do with it at an angle. There are stands and other attachment methods available on the Thingiverse page for it.
So you put electronic smoothers in and next you introduce play every time you move with the motor dampeners :) Don't hammer the stepper motor axel... if you hate the noise make an enclosure of some sort. Creality prob. changed the design so people wont use dampeners... now people start to break their motors... Don't replace the tubing when the extruder is hot, materials expand so when it's hot and you place the tubing it it opens up when cooling (or cooler then the set temp). Want the tightest fit place it cold.
Do not change your bowden tubing this way. Search RUclips for other ways, as in the correct way. You're supposed to heat the nozzle and unscrew it about 3/4 to one full turn. Then you screw in the bowden tube connector all the way. Push the bowden tube as far in as you can. Then you retighten the nozzle which should give you a very good, tight seal between the nozzle and the bowden tube. Again, there's plenty of RUclips videos that show the proper way of doing this.
Not too bad, print quality in overall is really good. But there are some noticeable Z axis marks on the benchy, actually on both. You must have some issue there as they are exactly at the same height in both.
I have had two occasions where printing PETG at 240C after when I tried to load pla in the machine the capricorn appeared to be wavy and I had to install new tubing.
thise coolers are important for parts with really small / short in time layers, also when you have very thin walls like that single walled trash can you made
One other question. Could you provide a list fastener and nuts to secure the various components that were not part of the Ender3. Or were you able to use fasteners that came with the printer? Richard
@@niklas1723 On amazon : Search "creality 1.1.5" Youll will find plenty of Silent 1.1.5 boards. I personnaly went with the Comgrow one, as I also bought the Glass Bed. Other worthwhile upgrades : all3dp.com/1/20-must-creality-ender-3-upgrades-mods/ My highlights : A rasberry pi 4 with Octoprint and a V2 camera. (Cura can then send jobs to and communicate with the Octoprint server over the network and also get the camera feed (to watch your job) (case is the #2889371 on thingiverse) Print this camera mount too, very well designed. #2987719 The HeroMe Fanduct from thingiverse Can help with part cooling, it gets very good results in overhangs. Then change the big fans (Bit of electronic "fidgetery", be careful with the PSU, capacitors can retain harmful/deadly charge even when off) : 2 buck converter to convert 24V -> 12V then hook up some more silent Noctuas fans (One 40mm X 20mm for the Extruder. one 80mm X 10mm for the PSU) use the 12V non-PWM "FLX" ones. That's where i'm at, a few very nice upgrades can be found with a little "Ender 3 Upgrades" search on the Google.
He probably just means the printer loud in general cause let’s face it they all make a bit of noice he wasn’t saying it’s particularly loud compared to others he was just saying it loud because printers are
"pretty loud" compared to silence. It's also pretty quiet compared to a hurricane. Both of these, he could've said, and someone would've still left a comment like this. Not defending someone who's done so much stupid shit in one video, you could take it and pretend it's 'americas funniest home videos' for people that have ever come into contact with electronics before. Don't make a tutorial if you know jack shit basically.
Bro.. I never thought to do the foam feet. Going to do the rubber dampeners for sure but those pieces of foam I had lying around made a HUGE difference in noise alone.
Decoupling a 3D printer from the table eliminates most of the vibration induced noise. The stepper dampers are also pretty effective and a cheap way to silence it even more, but upgrading the Ender series with a better mainboard with silent Trinamic drivers is the better long term measure, if you are willing to invest the money for it. Will also improve your print quality a bit.
If its your only machine and that is the path you wish then sure. However, stepper dampers are about $1.20 to $1.60 a pop. I have a box full of them. same with TL smoothers. around $3 a pop. a replacement mainboard and drivers is 60% to 120% the cost of the entire machine. dampers and tl smoothers are 5% the cost of the machine. I have 6 Ender 3's I can BUY 3-6 more ender 3's for the price of upgrading the 6 with full on boards and drivers.
@@nerys71 That is indeed a weighty economical argument. I too am generally very opposed to investing more money into upgrades than the base printer costs. Especially on those cheap chinese printers, one could easily replace everything but the frame with better components for a significant price and very modest increase in visible print quality. Would probably make for an interesting video to compare the practical print quality of a base Ender 3/5 to a fully upgraded one and how much improvement is actually achievable for a reasonable price and effort.
actually the cheapest option is a concrete slab £2 and bolt your printer to it. TL smoothers are junk and do nothing apart from generate heat, Dampers can work as long as they are good quality cheap ones can actually cause problems.
Just bought my Pro a few days ago. There is no way you can fit a knob, as there's nothing sticking up from that cog anymore. I assume they changed that recently.
Hi Vlad..perfect video..need some help, just about to install bampers as same as you..but i heard the add more temperature to engines, giving as result less life at future...is it really like that?
ehh its not going to hurt it :-) give it whacks! just not full berries. :-) FYI you can push that shaft a wee bit further into that bearing on the bottom to better center the Pulley Drive Gear.
@@nerys71 nice to see you here. the chances are good to find new subscribers here after some upgrades simply lack important additional information and then are looking for solutions
Not sure if blowing fresh air to the nozzle (via a fan duct) is a good idea. It cools the nozzle...Supposedly it should blow to the piece being printed, not the nozzle. Also you can use a whole pad made of eva rubber, instead of those foam feet.
life hack i just thought about when cutting the bowden tube put it in the fitting let it stick out a little and used the edge of the fitting as a guide.
Most wonderful videos! Watched every minute of a couple of your videos! I am a total rookie regarding 3D printing but over the past couple of days I've learned a lot. I do not yet own a printer but am seriously considering buying an Ender 3 V2. I am a model railroader. The particular reason I'm interested in 3D is because I want to print small gears. I've been looking for info about resolution but not having much luck. The gear I'm interested in printing is 6.7 mm with 15 teeth. The gear tooth "module" is just under .5, pretty small gear. Do you think this printer has the resolution to print the teeth with very fine resolution?
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Ender 3 Pro: geni.us/xUMach
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
Upgrade Links: ⬇
Capricorn tubing:geni.us/nOtX
Stepper Dampers: geni.us/pXvmFBR
Silicone Sock: geni.us/rArnrL
Metal Extruder: geni.us/SqP89R
TL Smoothers: geni.us/eBM2vv
Gear Puller: geni.us/Edm856p
Timing belt pulley: geni.us/BAvciy8
Printable Upgrades:
Fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3365114
Filament Guide: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2770487
Ribbon Clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2880021
E-Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115901
Tool Tray: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3162464
Side Spool Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967567
Spool Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211
PCB Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987100
Pressure fitting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683
Z-axis Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080
The hand gestures are the best I've ever seen on a 3D printer video. Actually they might be among the best on RUclips as a whole.
Bowden Tube 2:20
Fan Duct 9:20
Stepper Dampers 15:45
I spend this afternoon (-30C outside) watching your videos on the Ender 3 Pro... then ordered one off Amazon. I have flagged every upgrade and Thingiverse mod that you mentioned in each of your videos... Thanks for a series of fantastic videos- clear, concise, and no questions of where you got something. I have great faith of what to expect, and how to tweak it into an epic monster!
I have my ender 3 in my bedroom. The best fix is to get used to it 😂
You just need tmc drivers (different board) to make it completely silent. At least the fans will always do some noise.
The foam pieces alone made a huge difference.
You like the smell of fresh plastic in the morning?
I hope your bedroom is well ventilated.
True just get used to it its gonna be in my room
Me who waiting in the mail for it still
Pull those dampers off and throw a new mainboard in with either 2208's or 2209's in it. My E3 Pro has the Creality silent board running 1.1.9 Marlin and it is whisper quiet, no whine at all, just fan noise.
This is what I was thinking. Silent maiboard is the way to go. Total silence, no banging on motors, no physical modifications.
Ty
I cut some foam feet from the black foam that the printer was packaged in and it works well!
Whilst looking into buying a 3D printer, finding the Creality E3P, I stumbled upon your videos.. And I must say, I like your style; being your camera man, narrator and mechanic at the same time, cudos!
You also helped me to decide whether or not it would make sense investing in this device. Since you clearly have had time and experience with this particular machine it's clear it's well worth the price.
Subbed to keep track of your insightful videos, can't promise to be a faithful 'new upload buster' ;)
Dimitri yeh the same with me I have had two Malyan m200 in the past two years simply because they are super cheap so when one died I just bought another and ive finally been able to spend money on a new printer all though I can’t afford the pro 😂
Think its kudos not cudos
I think I'm most impressed that lifting the chassis to put those feet under it while printing didn't affect anything
For the bowden tube, when putting it in the hot end, make sure to secure the push fit connector to the tube first, and make sure the spacer that holds the movable part away from the metal bit is secured in place. This will grab the tube, so that when you tighten the nut, it will actually put pressure down. The way done in the video is probably okay, but what he described versus what he did were to entirely different things.
Try flipping the magnetic bed over so you are printing on the back. Smooth bottom and no stick issues at all. I have the 3 pro too.
Another tip is corn pads for under the feet. they work great and have adhesive on them in case you have to lift to clean under your printer.
When putting in new ptfe tubing, loosen nozzle 1/4 turn, heat up hotend, press tubing all the way in, tighten nozzle snugly. It will also help ensure that filament doesnt leak by the contact area of tubing and nozzle.
Vlad, many thanks for these videos, my Pro is with UPS right now, so I will be looking at adding these mods to my machine very shortly. Really appreciate your work here, and showing how much effect they have on the final prints.
Same here. I'm gonna mod the s..t out of it.
same here! i might be able to pick it up tonight, if not, tomorrow! i got half of my upgrades before the printer lol
@Zsavage1 damn paid 259$ mines at Microsoft but I originally got the powerspec i3 mini and then exchanged for this I think a 118$ difference
I was amazed too on how effective those dampers are. As I had the same problem with the y-axis motor hitting the bed after adding a damper there (to an extent where it did not even reach the limit switch) I found a solution on ebay that is just an about 1 - 2 mm thin sheet of temp resistant silicon, predrilled holes, ready to install for the Nema motors. That worked as good as the dampers like yours but helped to not have to do anything weird with the motor spindle. And no more hitting the bed and no preventing to hit the limit switch.
Can you add a link to it? I cannot seem to find what you're refering to on ebay unfortunately.
Got a link to that part?
Its silly he keeps calling the fan duct a fan duck. Even in the desc.
If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, is a duck.
Lmao
🦆
Awesome progress, i have the squash ball feet, dampers, and a few other things, but those two upgrades made a big difference with the noise
They have black and blue square pads made of different compounds of rubber at any plumbing supply place, they are anti vibration pads and they would match the ender perfectly and are like a buck or two a piece brother. For the feet I mean...
Washing machine isolation pads....
I wouldn't faff around with stepper motor dampers. You can get the BigTree SKR E3 Mini, which is a drop-in replacement for the Creality main board, for under $30. This has trinamic stepper drivers and once installed, the motors are near silent. I must say I was skeptical but I was amazed at the difference. The loudest thing is now the fan in the electronics box. I'm tempted to remove that or replace it with a Noctua fan.
Nice to see a new video about the ender 3pro
I assembled already my new 3D printer which is identical to your printer. I want to upgrade exactly the same with your printer. Where I can get or buy the program to print the parts for my printer? Greetings from one of your subscribers from Canada 🇨🇦
I like the stock sound. I like white noise/industrial sounds.
8:15 spider on the wall
subscribed, awesome videos man, I just got my ender 3 pro and loving it so far!
Next think you know, today we have 3d printed the whole ender 3
You can print dampeners in place of foam feet they snap together i think and go under each corner
2 mm EVA foam mat under the printer ought to do it. Plenty of surface area to soak up any vibrations from the floor upwards as well.
warning putting foam under the printer will make it silent but will make it shake too and cause problems in long wrong sometimes. so be careful. I had a lot of layer line issues that were slightly shifting
Honestly you should have more likes there's a reason CNC machines and Lathes etc.. have concrete and weighted bases it's to dampen resonance frequencies foam padding does nothing to help other than hide or mask some of these and in some cases can cause more problems than they solve.
I was thinking the same thing with the stepper motor dampeners. Wasn't it just last video he put in the one way boards to make sure the stepper motors stopped faster to keep it from being off on the layering ? Now this one he put dampeners in between the frame and stepper motor that will make them able to shift more. Isn't that a little one step forward and 2 back ?
thanks. I too love my ender 3 pro and will proceed with the dampers and I also have the metal extruder\boden upgrade. I also got the Swiss hot end I will install. I have a set of pullers and I'm also looking for a wider or longer gear.
You might want to try the Hero Me fanduct. I think it directs the air better from both sides. Also is a modular system that can be upgraded over time
Genius awesome Teach ..the only RUclips video explaining dumpers or dampers instalation with huge of details..Now is my turn... im really afraid
I got to 5m55s when I was blown away by the fact that you've been posting 3d printer videos for 9 months without owning a craft knife or a scalpel! (nice vid, keep it up fella)
8:42 You should have unscrewed that nut a little bit like you did for the hot end. That would have forced the end of the tube up against the inside wall of the red extruder, and further into the "teeth" of the holding nut when tightening it, thus lessening tube movements to almost zero during feeding/retractions. The way you did it will still allow the tube to move slightly anywhere from 1-2mm (or more over time), and that is even with the clip in place and using Cap tubing, because it's outer diameter is exactly the same as the stock tubing). I loosened mine almost one full turn before inserting the tube, and then tightened it, and now my stock tube barley moves a fraction of a millimetre at that location, which helped cleaned up the surface of my prints, and allowed me to set my retraction distance to a much lower number.
Hii
If you turn around the arm of your support filament, you can get full use of it...just unbolt it and turn front to back
there is a friendly spider on the wall at 8:15 hahaha
Alexandre Legault how did you see that?!
like spider 3d printer weave plastic objects
Just came to type this hahaha
I hate u
I saw that too. instantly. Living in Florida has truly taught me the skill of noticing small movement. Man I hate bugs.
Got an Ender 3 pro for a crazy good deal today. Can’t wait to get started with my first 3d printer
NuckFugget same ! Had mine for 2 days and love it!
I still have to wait for next week but I’m already stocking up on filament lol. Happy printing!
Got an Ender 3 Pro for 148 EUR ($163) on some black friday sale.
tstrrtstrr I got mine on Black Friday as well around the same price. 2 more days before it arrives sadly
For the flexible bed, you could use a metal one that acts the same
Sticking the foam piece underneath the printer was the first thing I did. And DAAAAAAMN, it really does make a huge difference! Waiting for my X/Y dampers to take it to the next level, haha.
About the packing material: Use what your Ender came with! It's the perfect thickness and density.
People replace the flexible magnetic bed because either the flexible bed itself is warped, or their heatbed underneath is warped and the flexible bed follows the warped contour of the heatbed. Either problem affects print quality and makes it extremely difficult to properly level the bed, so by replacing the flexible magnetic bed with borosilicate glass you eliminate both of those issues.
It's a fairly cheap fix, the Creality borosilicate glass bed costs ~$20. I've also heard of people using a section of mirror glass, I wouldn't recommend that because mirror glass isn't able to handle thermal shock as well as borosilicate glass and may crack/shatter/explode after being rapidly heated and cooled so many times.
Just bought one today! Counting down on when I get it! thanks for all of your tips!
Same here.
This is a great set of videos. I'm excited to upgrade my Ender 3 pro. Thanks!!!!!
To answer your ? slicepage YES! and when when he said after beating pounding the shafts it may come out this side I thought no S%!+ but I will sat I have a pro and I have it sitting on the shipping foam cut out the section under the board for air flow and I have had no issues with noise
excellent work vlad,a lot of great upgrades and fixes for what is a really good machine.
Thank you so much for your videos!
This made my first steps with the Ender 3 so much easier!
My Capricorn tubing arrived perfectly cut..
Also, I’ve been hammering at one of the motor rods for right about 40 minutes, and it hasn’t moved even a millimeter. I’m using the exact same tool mix that yer using, and all I’ve done was damage my table some
Great video of all the Ender 3 upgrading process...What material did you used to print all the upgrade parts for the Ender 3?
if you slow your print speed down 10 to 15 percent it will solve the sound problem. You can adjust in menu will its printing
A tip for getting a 90 degree cut on the tube - put the tube into the fitting so that it protrudes a bit from the bottom, and using the end of the brass fitting as a guide, slice the tube so that it is flush with the brass fitting. Oh yeah - and has been noted. Invest a couple of bucks in an X-Acto knife (or similar).
im looking to replace my bed because my aluminium base plate is warped. not to the point of being un-usable, but i have to put a fat raft on all of my prints to get any 1st/2nd adheasion. hoping a glass bed will be abit flatter
I got mine in a package that included the metal extruder, though I have yet to fit it. I am running it using the basic slicer that comes with it, and am getting beautiful prints right out of the box. The only problem I have spotted so far is that there is an error in the assembly instructions relating to the placement of the Z axis limit switch. Rather than placing it at 32mm height, simply place it as low as the spur that has been newly added to the part will allow. The spur rests on the base extrusion.
I have printed some upgrades to the filament path that seem to be popular, but so far they have caused more trouble than the original configuration. Granted there may be weaker parts that need replacement over time, but I think a lot of these upgrade projects are not necessary, and I am not the only one saying this. Both CHEP, and Salanderer have videos that say the same thing. The upgrades are fun, but they are also great subject matter for videos whether they really work better than the basic machine or not.
I wonder if instead of using those specialized rubber dampers, you cut a sheet of thin rubber or like an inner tube to put in between the motors and the mounting plate. I know you would still have contact through the bolts but it might make it better.
If you use the SKR mini E3 that will eliminate all the noise, no need for the dampeners
Use the foam from the Ender 3 Pro box... Nice black foam.
Nice videos Vlad, bought myself a pro couple a days ago. nice to see these pretty handy upgrades. Thanks. And well recorded!
You added the motor dampers which pretty much completely eliminated the 'salmon skin' artifacts, but another possible cause I've heard of is the belt teeth running along a smooth idler bearing surface (which I see is used on at least the Y-axis of the Ender 3), it can introduce a vibration that can cause salmon skin. It doesn't look like it's much of an issue though on the Ender 3.
Oooo myyy god thank you sooo much for the dampener hack I thought I would never be able to use the dampers
Try pieces from Dr. Scholl's shoe inserts, for the feet to desk
I replaced the tubing and couplers when I first built mine.
To have a tight fitting, tighten the coupling first then heat the nozzle to 230 or so, unscrew the nozzle half thread, push the nozzle all the way through until it touches the nozzle and then tight the nozzle back.
another method is a little simpler. tighten nozzle all the way (retighten hot)
loosen coupler 2 turns. insert ptfe seat it and the release clip into place. THEN finish tightening the coupler the last 2 turns. perfect mating every time. fast easy painless and fool proof.
If you pull out on the collar as you push in it should seat properly without the clip
You may try a small piece of rubber on your fan focuser to help absorb the vibration and help keep it solid
Just awesome videos, all details like it should be and all explained. When I go to buy the 3d printer Ender 3 I will see these videos to go great.
Have you replaced bed springs yet with the amazon orange ones? Id like to see you upgrade to those or even better the silicone stabilizers and do another benchy
I've done that recently... just ordinary stiff springs, not "painted" orange ones. It's made a huge difference to my prints... They're better... I got 20 of them for less than a fiver.
I've printed 3 stabilising cylinders that catch the screw and the spring (they both have their own space, with a small ring between the screw and spring), so the springs can not make the awfull S-shape anymore when the bed might be leveled down a reasonable amount, to shop the bed shifting from travelling movements. It helped quite a bit in limiting the bed shifting because of fast travelling.
The base of the cylinders is quite large so the screws stay upright as much as possible. There also is a 3.5 mm high base that the springs rest on so they have much more force in pushing the bed up, which helped even more (I used several small metal rings below the springs at first, but they could shift position just like the springs, and while it definitely was an improvement, it wasn't a very good one.
Did the fan mod works great my benchy prints are a lot nicer the only problem I'm getting is a retraction line going down one side of the boat anyway this can be fix thank for the video as well
The Filler spool holder won't work properly when side mounted like that, the inside of the spool will rub on the brace part a lot of the time. You really want the spool to be resting solely on the round cylinder with the bearings, which you can't do with it at an angle. There are stands and other attachment methods available on the Thingiverse page for it.
So you put electronic smoothers in and next you introduce play every time you move with the motor dampeners :) Don't hammer the stepper motor axel... if you hate the noise make an enclosure of some sort. Creality prob. changed the design so people wont use dampeners... now people start to break their motors... Don't replace the tubing when the extruder is hot, materials expand so when it's hot and you place the tubing it it opens up when cooling (or cooler then the set temp). Want the tightest fit place it cold.
Put lighting behind the camera facing the prints for better comparison shots
Dude you guys wanna play a game? Take a shot everytime he says "alright guys" 😂great vid tho
I don't know if I'd change out the tubing where who knows what can go wrong just to have a different tube
The Capricorn upgrade is not optional. It is necessary.
Do not change your bowden tubing this way. Search RUclips for other ways, as in the correct way. You're supposed to heat the nozzle and unscrew it about 3/4 to one full turn. Then you screw in the bowden tube connector all the way. Push the bowden tube as far in as you can. Then you retighten the nozzle which should give you a very good, tight seal between the nozzle and the bowden tube. Again, there's plenty of RUclips videos that show the proper way of doing this.
Not too bad, print quality in overall is really good.
But there are some noticeable Z axis marks on the benchy, actually on both.
You must have some issue there as they are exactly at the same height in both.
Would you sell the needed upgrade parts as a kit?
hi, do yoy have a video of all the settings for the ender 3 pro??
it seems like you have very good results..
tnx!!
18:46 why not just print a puller? Would be easy to design
I have had two occasions where printing PETG at 240C after when I tried to load pla in the machine the capricorn appeared to be wavy and I had to install new tubing.
thise coolers are important for parts with really small / short in time layers, also when you have very thin walls like that single walled trash can you made
i'm worried the dampener is going to ruin my prints somehow. cause the motor can rotate. but I could just use TMC2208 ;3
One other question. Could you provide a list fastener and nuts to secure the various components that were not part of the Ender3. Or were you able to use fasteners that came with the printer? Richard
The MUST have upgrade is the Upgraded Motherboard. There is some magic there and the stepper stop making that whinning noise !
Where do I find that or what is the name of that board?
@@niklas1723 On amazon : Search "creality 1.1.5" Youll will find plenty of Silent 1.1.5 boards. I personnaly went with the Comgrow one, as I also bought the Glass Bed.
Other worthwhile upgrades :
all3dp.com/1/20-must-creality-ender-3-upgrades-mods/
My highlights :
A rasberry pi 4 with Octoprint and a V2 camera. (Cura can then send jobs to and communicate with the Octoprint server over the network and also get the camera feed (to watch your job) (case is the #2889371 on thingiverse)
Print this camera mount too, very well designed. #2987719
The HeroMe Fanduct from thingiverse Can help with part cooling, it gets very good results in overhangs.
Then change the big fans (Bit of electronic "fidgetery", be careful with the PSU, capacitors can retain harmful/deadly charge even when off) : 2 buck converter to convert 24V -> 12V then hook up some more silent Noctuas fans (One 40mm X 20mm for the Extruder. one 80mm X 10mm for the PSU) use the 12V non-PWM "FLX" ones.
That's where i'm at, a few very nice upgrades can be found with a little "Ender 3 Upgrades" search on the Google.
"Ender 3 is pretty loud" actually it's one of the most quiet ones in the sub 1000$ range.
i figured that out myself aswell! love it....clap clap clap! LOVE IT!
He probably just means the printer loud in general cause let’s face it they all make a bit of noice he wasn’t saying it’s particularly loud compared to others he was just saying it loud because printers are
"pretty loud" compared to silence. It's also pretty quiet compared to a hurricane. Both of these, he could've said, and someone would've still left a comment like this. Not defending someone who's done so much stupid shit in one video, you could take it and pretend it's 'americas funniest home videos' for people that have ever come into contact with electronics before.
Don't make a tutorial if you know jack shit basically.
There are plenty of silent printers around the $400 mark. I have even seen some dip down to $200.
wouldnt it be simpler to print a smaller bed leveling knob instead of using washers and loosing print space
Bro.. I never thought to do the foam feet. Going to do the rubber dampeners for sure but those pieces of foam I had lying around made a HUGE difference in noise alone.
Decoupling a 3D printer from the table eliminates most of the vibration induced noise. The stepper dampers are also pretty effective and a cheap way to silence it even more, but upgrading the Ender series with a better mainboard with silent Trinamic drivers is the better long term measure, if you are willing to invest the money for it. Will also improve your print quality a bit.
If its your only machine and that is the path you wish then sure. However, stepper dampers are about $1.20 to $1.60 a pop. I have a box full of them. same with TL smoothers. around $3 a pop.
a replacement mainboard and drivers is 60% to 120% the cost of the entire machine. dampers and tl smoothers are 5% the cost of the machine.
I have 6 Ender 3's I can BUY 3-6 more ender 3's for the price of upgrading the 6 with full on boards and drivers.
@@nerys71 That is indeed a weighty economical argument. I too am generally very opposed to investing more money into upgrades than the base printer costs.
Especially on those cheap chinese printers, one could easily replace everything but the frame with better components for a significant price and very modest increase in visible print quality.
Would probably make for an interesting video to compare the practical print quality of a base Ender 3/5 to a fully upgraded one and how much improvement is actually achievable for a reasonable price and effort.
actually the cheapest option is a concrete slab £2 and bolt your printer to it. TL smoothers are junk and do nothing apart from generate heat, Dampers can work as long as they are good quality cheap ones can actually cause problems.
Just bought my Pro a few days ago. There is no way you can fit a knob, as there's nothing sticking up from that cog anymore. I assume they changed that recently.
im a little new, but I can tell you that your cooling fan was not running when you said it was making noise.
Mag bed loses its magnetism when you hit a high enough temp. Won't work for ABS or higher temp plastics. 2c
Hi Vlad..perfect video..need some help, just about to install bampers as same as you..but i heard the add more temperature to engines, giving as result less life at future...is it really like that?
anyone else cringe when the motor spindle was bashed?
ehh its not going to hurt it :-) give it whacks! just not full berries. :-)
FYI you can push that shaft a wee bit further into that bearing on the bottom to better center the Pulley Drive Gear.
No cringe here
@@nerys71 nice to see you here. the chances are good to find new subscribers here after some upgrades simply lack important additional information and then are looking for solutions
lol...what time did that happen? I'm curious now.
@@stringfellowhawk4843 I'm not going to spoil it for you, rewind.
Plz tell me all your setting ( if you can ) for PLA
Is there a video of you replacing the pully?
Take a heat gun to those pulleys after 30 40 seconds you should be able to pry pulley into position
Sorry what part you said you can move easier with a heatgun?
Not sure if blowing fresh air to the nozzle (via a fan duct) is a good idea. It cools the nozzle...Supposedly it should blow to the piece being printed, not the nozzle. Also you can use a whole pad made of eva rubber, instead of those foam feet.
Loving your videos, many thanks!
life hack i just thought about when cutting the bowden tube put it in the fitting let it stick out a little and used the edge of the fitting as a guide.
Most wonderful videos! Watched every minute of a couple of your videos! I am a total rookie regarding 3D printing but over the past couple of days I've learned a lot. I do not yet own a printer but am seriously considering buying an Ender 3 V2. I am a model railroader. The particular reason I'm interested in 3D is because I want to print small gears. I've been looking for info about resolution but not having much luck. The gear I'm interested in printing is 6.7 mm with 15 teeth. The gear tooth "module" is just under .5, pretty small gear. Do you think this printer has the resolution to print the teeth with very fine resolution?
8:15 Is there a spider on the wall?
Use the Sound Level App on your phone to actually measure the noise levels.
I don't see the link to the filament guide that clips the cables in place. Am I just not seeing it? Thanks.
part for filament guide at 1:25 ?
How did you get the extruder knob to work as the ender 3 pro doesnt have a knotch