How to install an intake gasket on a 1988-1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado
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- Опубликовано: 22 ноя 2018
- In this video I will show you how toHow to install an intake gasket on a 1988-1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado. This job will save you
some big $$ by doing it yourself. The link to where I bought the product is below at Amazon.
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Авто/Мото
Incorrect. Not 88-98. That motor was used from 87-95.
This video just solved my problem thank you !!!!!
Thanks you gave one of the best videos I’ve seen yet Ty
My 92 C2500 at 286,000 miles
finally needs this gasket. They don't make em like they used to.
How did you know it needed a intake gasket?
Are you the original owner?
Thank you! Helped a lot
You do good work. Very thurl. Thank you for sharing this video 👍🏼
Excellent video. I will be changing my EGR today
Still the bomb,...thank you Sir...
Realistically you didn't have to move the engine to top dead center or anything. Alls you needed to do was mark the distributor at the bottom to block an then make a marking by your rotor bug so u know witch way it was facing also.
What do you mean motor bug
I might add if you plan on painting intake you can take small punch, chisel and lightly hammer a mark at base of distrubutor to intake before you lossen distributor. Now you can clean, paint intake with out worry of losing magic marker lines. Just enough do not hit with 2lbs. hammer. Work safe diy'ers regards
I have to change my manifold and head gaskets on my Chevy caprice 305 this video is the first to show how to actually get to it lol thanks for this I could use a few tips tho
How did it go?
Nice work would I have to remove the throttle body I was going to leave it on manifold when I replace intake gasket
Do u have to do top dead center ? Can u just mark bottom of post then on intake
We're there any other indicators that the intake gasket was bad? Any smoking from the tailpipe?
Good job!!! I'm not a mechanic but I know the 96-98 gm were different. Vortech motors and I believe they were plastic intakes.
I just did my heater core bolt into intake and the intake but my heater core bolt was so loose it unscrewed from manifold with my hand unbroken ! I was shocked !
You guys with these chevy trucks if you are getting a stumble when accelerating or have a dead spot check the coolant level in the radiator, if it's low and the coolant temp sensor isn't wet and is only exposed to air (because the coolant level is low) the computer will be confused and not know what kind of settings to throw at things like air/fuel, timing, anyway you will get a stumble and hesitation if the coolant is low enough that the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold is dry.
Thank you for this info.....I think that may be my issue
If you want to keep the heater hose quick disconnect fitting parts stores sell one that is real metal and won't break off.
What was your step-by-step process to get The block that clean? How did you get it Hospital clean? as you say. I know you said you did it for a couple hours but did you only use acetone? What was your method?
Wish you had actually showed how you removed the gaskets, keeping the galley and ports free from debris. Pointers on that is the only reason I checked in.
Put a rag in all of the ports to keep debris free
@@Blondie77 Oh yeah. I went off with cut pieces of canvas in the ports and over the whole valley and sucked up everything with a shop vac.
What Chevy 5.7 manual did you use?
Is there any way you could send me that part number on that alternator I just put a new motor in my '94 and the alternator I got doesn't have a spot to bolt the support bar for the alternator to the intake
Is there anyway the coolant leak was from the bolt and bracket on top and not the manifold gasket? I have a similar leak on my driver and passenger side of my intake manifold but only those first two bolts that run through mounting brackets. No white smoke at all when the truck is running or driving and the amount of coolant lost is a very small amount over time. Just curious if anyone has any thoughts.
I have a 1995 GMC Sierra 1500, 350, 5.7. I was loosing coolant with no external leaks. I found I have coolant in one spark plug hole. That's a head gasket correct? I have not run it hot.
Did you have to set the timing afterwards? I presume, yes but figured I'd ask. It looks like you have everything marked up perfectly.
Did you end up having to set the timing?
Great video 👍 what's the thread pitch on that 3/8 tap?
1/2 ntp14
Why do the intake bolts need to be new clean ? Enlighten me ? If I can install them why do I have to make them hospitable clean ?
I need to replace the ignition coil but the driver-side bolt can not be accessed because of the fuel line. How to remove the fuel lines? since you forgot to record it. Which option is the easiest way - remove the fuel line, remove the throttle body, remove the clamp that holds the fuel line (where is it?) Please let me know ASAP. PLease explain in a simple way, I'm a woman & new to this thing. Thank you so much.
I want to tackle this job on my ‘88 350 but that timing is intimidating! How do you set the timing any resources for this? Thanks.
The timing is easy, the hard part it getting the distributor lined up when you put it back in. For the timing you just mark that notch on your harmonic balancer with white nail polish or something so you can see it. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt enough you can rotate the whole unit left and right. Hook up your timing light to the #1 plug wire (on the right bank it's first plug in front of you if you're in front of the truck) then you just aim the light at the timing mark on the engine block while it's running and adjust the distributor position until the timing mark lines up on 0° with the balancer.
@@andrewwheeler9073 thank you for the reply!
Is there PIP plug you have to unplug to make sure the computer isn’t advancing time while your trying to get at 0
@@LPWSzzz yes you have to unplug the timing advance wire it’s on the passenger firewall or inside the cab under glovebox should be tan wire with black stripe. Unplug it restart engine using timing light set it on 0 shut off engine tighten down distributor and plug the wire back in and all done
Do you still have this 89 silverado? If yes can you send me some pictures of the front of the engine I need to know where the brace bars go. I see the one that goes from the exhaust manifold to the back of the alternator. I need the location of the other braces. PLEASE
Did you get your braces figured out? I just R&R ed the manifold on a GMC of that vintage and took pix .My e mail doesnt pix too well but can try.Both the round steel rod type braces go to the same area on this truck.One to a stud on the back of the A/C and one to a bolt that goes into the back of the belt tensioner.Pretty self evident where other end goes at that point.Hope this helps if still needed.
I have to replace the Intake gaskets on my 1998, 350 small block. I really dont want to mess with my distributer. But I might have to. oof
set at tdc and mark appropietly you will be fine. once you learn you will be ready for tasks only people with less nerve will attempt. You will not only save $$ you will know engine and be sure it is done right. If you make a mistake call it learning and do not get discouraged. Best of luck fellow DIY.
I watched another vid from 1A TRQ Auto and he did the intake bolts to only 25 ft pounds, while you and the book say 35 ft pounds, I will be doing what you and the book say. But does that mean he was totally wrong when he said 25 ft pounds or are some different maybe?
So what's the pipe on the driver side intake manifold
Looks like vacuum line to power brake booster.
Do you have to move the motor to 0 degrees before removing distributor?
I wonder this also what purpose is this
I would also like to know this
no
Why have to put motor tdc
Timing is advanced a bit too much, unless your running nitrous I'd advance it just a touch👌
just got all the parts to do my 1994 Silverado. Typical Chevrolet. Mine in leaking oil at the rear manifold seal.
Jerry is you leak behind the distributor area.?My 92 seems to have the same issue.
@@bengonzalez1730 you are dead on right. Also make sure your oil sending unit is not leaking. Mine was leaking there too. Plus the valve covers had some leak. All in the rear where you can not get to it unless you pull the intake.
One thing I would do is not put that intake back on I rebuild a 5.7 decided to have the intake looked at in the Machine Shop it was warped went and got another one warped anything over 200 thousand miles you don't want it get an aftermarket Holly sells one it's not for everyday use it does not work you want the Elder Brock no spacer plates and it has the coolant port in the back Holly does not they're not that much they are actually cheaper than OEM don't reuse your intake plus the Elder Brock the airport that goes through the middle is blocked so you don't get that extra hot heat through your intake
It's "Edlebrock".
i couldnt get my surfaces that clean and i scrubbed and scrubbed for hours
i got them clean but didnt look that good
My heater hose broke off and I can't get that peice out of my intake. So until I can get it fixed I can't do a thing
What happens if some coolant falls in to the oil and you use the truck like that
Risk bending something
coolant eats bearings!!
If you want your heater to work don't block the rear heater port on the passenger rear!!!! Wrong gaskets in video, use 93317 set
Those are the correct gaskets in the video for a TBI. You need to stop posting nonsense.
@@YouSoundButtHurt ok you can use any gaskets you want. I found a piece of silicone clogging the heater fitting.
Wrong gaskets. The rear water ports have the block off with those gaskets. Engine will overheat with that set. Need the gaskets with all 3 water ports open for each head.
Use 93317 gaskets, not the 93318
Skipped too many steps