Vacuum Pump AC Lines and Break the Vacuum with Refrigerant: Setup, Micron Level, Weighing
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- Опубликовано: 11 авг 2017
- In this HVAC Training Video, I go over how to properly pull a vacuum, how to test the vacuum for leaks, how to break the vacuum with liquid refrigerant into the liquid line as well as other tips. I also go over why you want to weigh liquid refrigerant into the liquid line instead of the vapor line. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
Tools Used In The Video
CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge: amzn.to/2v1nM3O
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Appion Valve Core Removal Tool: amzn.to/3X4hnRj
JB Vacuum Pump Oil - amzn.to/2mGrlXy
JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump - amzn.to/2nqbvo8
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Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided.
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you are lossing the vaccum when connecting the charging hose.
@@mk696 only if he did not purge the charge line
Super video!!
Thanks for your dedication and devotion.
Just found you on RUclips recently.
I'm turning the younger guys I work with onto your channel for the really great techniques.
Certainly THE BEST channel on HVAC knowledge (both concept and practice) and detail .. No Competition.. Great Job by the channel owner .. :)
I'm sure you here this sorta thing all the time, but I haven't been to a tech school in many many years. Too many to mention. Your videos are much better and much more interesting than anything I was ever originally exposed to. Thank you very much.
PS: I love you book.
AC Service tech provides the best videos hands down! Their training products are top notch as well! I just use the manifold set and don’t remove any cores. I haven’t experienced enough benefit in time or $$ to justify the $300+ dollar cost of the extra hoses and the time to set up the Appions. Although, it certainly is the absolute correct way to do it, I don’t.
Your training is superb. You are very thorough and do a great job with the video quality. I am a rookie HVAC tech and this really gets me up to speed.
Thanks a lot Benny ad glad to help!
I love your video thanks sharing your knowledge to make us better HVAC technicians
I appreciate your comment Kareem!
Great video really helpful for all the new guys coming n to the field
Thanks a lot Chris!
Excellent video as always! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Glad to help Steve!
I pump systems down basically the same way. Although I don’t necessarily think this method reduces leaking points. You have screw on fittings everywhere , it’s at least just as leak prone IMO as a manifold set. Also I have ran vacuum without removing cores and found it to be a negligible time difference. Despite all that tho, this is the best practice I have found.
Thanks a million for your explanation , I love your videos , I learned a lot from them.
Thanks Mohamed!
Thanks again ACServicetech for another informative learning video!
Thanks L Brown!
thank you so much!!! acservicetech for sharing Excellent video partner keep em rollin''
Thank you jimbolla77!
Just found your channel. Great stuff man!
Thanks very good video!
Thanks a lot Dionisis!
Great video.
Thanks Alex!
Enjoyed the video👍
Thanks a lot Nor Cal!
Great video..!!! Thanks
Thanks monterrozacesar5!
I have the sman460. I just use the 3/8 adapter out of the top of my vaccum pump. Didnt know you could even get a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer. I do like how you pump down the high side and low side at the same time.
Thanks Jason, yeah there are many ways to pull a vacuum, that's for sure, thanks
I love this video as a tech of 34 years this is almost identical to how I pull a vacuum the only difference is I use two micron gauges so you can see both sides of the system as there can be a big difference until all the moisture is removed.
Very nice!
Show,very good. Tks.
Thanks Fernando!
Excellent instruction for obtaining consistent vacuums eliminating leak variables. Sometime would appreciate a video on vacuums w/ 2-3x nitrogen sweeps. Also I just became a Community Patreon member towards financially supporting your efforts to continue producing the best, technically detailed, by-the-book (the big 1500+ page Refrigeration Technology text) HVAC-R vidoes I've seen. I also subscribe to Working JoesRoundtable, HVACR School.com, HVAC in SC, NathanHVAC, and variety of others. Thanks again for your devotion & passion in sharing knowledge including steps & info more experienced techs take for granted.
Hey papa joe, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I and my wife were away for our 10th anniversary. I would like to show how to do a triple evacuation while using nitrogen in the future, thanks. I just got in and checked the Patreon feed. I appreciate you wanting to be a part of the new platform. Is your user name there Joe Reinhard?
Great video and I do the same technique but use 1/2 " Appion hoses. A week after I ordered my new 1/2" Appion hoses I see that 3/4" Vacuum hoses are now available lol. I also purchase vacuum pump oil by the gallon so I change my vacuum pump oil after each use. Keep up the awesome videos.Thanks
That's awesome to hear coolmandude1000!
You absolutely don't need to change the vac oil everytime. Just add nitrogen and release quickly via quarter valve to make sure all crap in your system is kicked out, then if your oil allows to reach the vacuum needed regarding to the lowest temperature around your system. 'Water saturation curve'
Another excellent video! Thanks!
Thanks Brian!
thank you so much
Buddy ,I've been watching videos for several weeks now, I highly respect and admire knowledge and tips, I have learned a bunch from your video, I got a quick question I'm getting ready to order some vacuum hoses I know you're using the red hoses from oppian ,which are 3/8 should I get the 3/8 hoses or the 1/2" let me know, I am not going to be working on any commercial units only residential's nothing big, again thank you for your time and priceless tutorials
You could get the 1/2" ones but they may be a little pricey. What I am trying to show everyone is that could can put together a vacuum hose setup fairly cheaply. I personally use that 3/8" hose with the 3/8" connection and 1/4" connection. For the liquid line, I just use a very inexpensive 1/4" hose. With this setup, I have vacuumed 125' line set 1 1/8" by 3/8 tubing with a used evap in under twelve minutes to a vacuum level of 200 microns. It held 200 during the standing vacuum test. I have the tools I use linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech. I also receive a commission with any amazon purchase after clicking through any of the links. The price for the consumer does not change at all and the purchase doesn't even have to be the item clicked through initially. Anyway, it doesn't hurt to go bigger. It will be an even faster vacuum, just make sure to keep the manifold gauge set off of the vacuum setup, thanks Al!
Just like a Surgeon working on a heart.
Hi there Craig Migliaccio, I purchased a very informative tech book from you guys but couldn't find anything much on "non-condensables" but great references book that I keep in my truck and would like to say thx for sharing your knowledge. I ran across an almost new heatpump with non-condensables in seal system and removed all old refrigerant and filter dryer and triple evacuation and still having decay failure. Ck for leaks and it seems to be tight.
Installed new 20 cubic inch filter dryer. I did haft to recharge and noticed fluctuating head pressure. I new it wasn't dry due to vacuum decay test. Any advice sir???
Thx much!!
Could you do a full video on reclaiming refrigeration then vacuum and pressure test then charge the system AKA how to use the manifold gauges correctly
Well unfortunately that video sounds like it may be 4-6 videos for me but yes I understand that it would be nice to see a full run down from start to finish. Thanks Green Hornet Bandit!
why not include the connected refrigerant hose as part of the vacuum pull. So the line-set and the line going to the refrigerant tank valve is all under vacuum. Even though you purged the line, it seems like you risk a small amount of moisture going into the system - especially from where the connection is made. Having under vacuum and holding under 500micron , then break vacuum by only opening up the the tank valve seems like a better way to go.
can micron gauge be attached on either low and high side? some videos attached the micron gauge on yellow hose to vacuum pump..thanks
great video ^_^
Thanks ZE!
Where did u get the adapter from 1/4 to 3/8 I bought the hoses on you list but my vacuum has a 3/8 on one the other is 1/4
After I weigh in one pound at least. Do I add the rest after the system is running?
In your experience how long it takes to pull a vacuum down to 500 micron? Understand it may differ from type of pump and system but for a 3CFM pump and 5Ton unit with 100ft piping?
I have the exact same setup as your mine will only drop to 720 micron. Now when I isolate the pump with a valve the micron level don’t rise at all telling me there is no leak however when I connect the pump back and try to pull more vacuum it won’t do down below 720 and vacuum reading on my vacrometer start to rise which is odd. I even left my inside fan on but same result. Amy idea what I’m doing wrong?
do you add 1 lb of liquid refrigerant to all systems new and used after a evacuation?
One suggestion: I have had Schrader valves leak vacuum fairly often. My practice is to install the charge hose, purged of air and with the ball valve closed, before I pull vacuum. After all that work, to hear a hiss when you take the cap off so you can attach the charge hose would push my buttons...
Leo, yes I have always wondered if the valve core has a weaker return spring it would act as a check valve and pass the vacuum but block the normal pressure in the line?
My advise would be to add refrigerant to break the vacuum first before adding the schrader valves back in, thanks Leo and r aeronca, I hear you and there is nothing more frustrating than wasting time with a problem with a vacuum, thanks and did you check out these other vacuum videos?- ruclips.net/video/jlzecsOImqs/видео.html -- ruclips.net/video/RA7BY7dixIg/видео.html
Yes, I’ve had this happen where the side port of the appion shrader core sucks in air when in a deep vacuum. I’d highly recommend removing the micron gauge and charging there. Of course purge before opening the valve on core removal tool. I’ve done this many times and it seems to work well. I’m a little ocd when it comes to pulling a vacuum. Good video.
I like this setup. One question I have is could you have left the refrigerant hose valve open, vacuumed down the system including line running to refrigerant tank, then released the refrigerant? This seems easier to me, no need to purge air out but your setup would likely use the vacuum to suck the refrigerant out of hose. I suppose your method would make sure not refrigerant left in hose after whereas doing it other way would possibly allow some of it to float around in the hose after.
Great thoughts mo, I try to limit the amount of hoses when vacuuming, thanks!
Can you use 2- 3/8" vacuum hose? Or 1 with the 1/4" hose is better, also is the 1/4" gauge set hose with the shrader removed.
Thank you
So I have a dedicated vacuum set that I use some of the items for recovery as well. I do not use these to check the charge and I don't include the manifold unless checking the charge, adding or recovering refrigerant with the system compressor. The hoses used for the recovery machine and for vacuum do not have valve core depressors in them. This will all be spelled out when the book is complete. You can use (2) 3/8 hoses as long as you have 3/8" ports on your vacuum pump. The other side of the hose will be 1/4" as they connect to the valve core removal tools. Don't use reducers but these will all be one hose like the ones in the links I gave earlier. I happen to use that 2' 1/4" hose because I only have one 3/8" port on that JB vacuum pump but the new fieldpiece has two 3/8" ports and that 2' 1/4" hose I linked is only around 12 dollars. You also want a small short hose for the outlet of your recovery machine anyway, thanks. Check out- ruclips.net/video/os9gKLf7LJg/видео.html - and ruclips.net/video/wYZ8Wudksb0/видео.html
Can you vaccuum from just one side vs both?
Do you ever lubricate the shrader cores with a very small amount refrigerant oil when you reinstall? Do you think that step is beneficial to improve the seal?
Do you lubricate the shaft and seals of the vcrt with refrigerant oil?....I got your book by the way and I find it very helpful. Thanks again.
If anything, I just put a small dab of oil on the rubber grommets but I don't continue to relubricate them. They usually have some oil on them. The schrader valves can take a little oil on the neoprene but will also work without with absolutely no problem, thanks!
if you want to utilize the refrigerant in the tube why dont you shut it off by the bottle?
Just wondering about something. When you connect and purge the yellow refrigerant hose then screw it all the way onto the valve core of valve core removal tool, isn't the vacuum inside the lines pulling air with moisture into the system in addition to refrigerant (which you have partially flowing) till the hose nut is completely tight?
I think you are talking about breaking the vacuum with refrigerant. So purge the air out at the end of the hose connected to the liquid line valve core removal and also when tightening it on. There will be no air or moisture left to pull into the system but just refrigerant, thanks
Thanks for the great video. In this set up I see that you have the micron gauge on the suction side and not the highside. Does it makes a difference? i have always been told to connect it on the highside please help me clarified my concern. Thanks.
I connect it to the vapor line because this is the larger line and it will read a slightly lower micron level since the tube is slightly larger, thanks!
Thank you !
I would like to disconnect the vacuum hose on the liquid line side and connect charging line to the port of the core removal tool but not side port. When you put charging hose to the side port very likely your charging hose depressor will touch the core of the core removal tool, which will introduce air into the system. Thank you
I agree and I never have a valve core in the side of my valve core removal tool. That is usually where I put my third tool anyway, thanks!
How does the micron gauge get included In the vacuum if the ball valve on the first core remover is blocking off the access to the port the second core remover is on?
The valve is of the shut off valve core removal tool is closer to the hose so the other one is still reading the vacuum of the system. Also, I don't have the valve cores in the sides of the valve core removal tools, thanks!
I was going through your list of tools and I couldn’t find a Oxygen-Acetylene set up. Do you have a recommendation on amazon. Thanks!!
Hey Danny L, This is the one we use- amzn.to/2DpL1Yz - thanks for supporting the channel with purchases through links on amazon. Even when someone enters amazon through one of those links and doesn't purchase the item but does purchase some item after that then a commission is awarded to the channel. Every bit helps. This is all a lot of work, ha ha!
Thank you for your amazing videos and clear concise procedures. You have helped me tremendously in life! I can't seem to find an answer to this question, so I assume it's not the standard way to do things but
When installing a new heat pump w/txv whose lineset is under deep vacuum, would it be easier/better/possible to weigh in the additional charge (or most of the additional charge) required for extra line length in this same way (letting the vacuum pull it into the liquid line), then open the service valves, start the system and do final adjustments? Especially when its cold out? Would that create an analogous situation to having the exact length lineset for the initial charge, or am i missing something?
That is called the total weight method and it is exactly what you do when installing a heat pump in the middle of winter since you can't check the charge on most when it is really cold outside since the amount of refrigerant in the accumulator is not known. In ac mode with a temp above 70 degrees, the accumulator is drained and you just check the charge with superheat or subcooling. Yes make sure you weigh into the liquid line, thanks and great thoughts Brian!
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you, so very much! I did just that yesterday afternoon - it was easy! The system is running perfectly! Wow! I really appreciate you taking your time to create such a vast and diverse Library of information - Your videos are by far the clearest, most concise, and most actionable here. 👏
Thanks a lot Brian! I really appreciate that!
Not gonna lie I copied this set up for a while. Great results. I replaced the cps gauge with a testo 552 and that micron gauge claiming to be the most accurate takes forever to pull down. I've heard this issue many times online with the testo 552 . Kinda wish I got another cps or bluvac. Issue I had with cps is the screen cracked and no longer had a display . I see the yellow body cps went away and now they're black. At least in my area
Yeah a lot of people complain about micron gauges and it is hard to tell when reading reviews if they know what they are doing. I love that CPS and the Supco have always been reliable too!
Well done but why you don't go for charge with weight ?
Regarding your on-screen text at 8:03.....Does it speed up the process if you vacuum a mini split from both liquid and vapor service ports if the metering device is by the condenser? Is it worth it or do you just vacuum with one hose from one port? Thanks again.
We usually just vacuum from one side because like you said, the metering device is in the outdoor unit, thanks!
I haven’t found a big advantage of vacuuming from both sides of the system. We’re not talking about huge volumes of air being removed so the CFM quickly drops so I’d rather have fewer overall fittings hooked up to the vacuum pump.
I tried to use the 2 hose method but couldn't get the micron gauge to register. Tested my pump with sing hose got below 100 microns. Went with one hose setup got down to 900 on low side decided to pull from high got down to 240 SMH at this point. I repeat with same results after opening the valves to the condenser. Still SMH but decide to break the vac after it set for 30 minutes at 240. I start weighing in refrigerant get to 3.5 lbs and it just stops! The system capacity is about 10lbs. Any thoughts on what is going on? Clogged filter? Stuck TXV?
HI there i have a 4 CFM pump will it still work for mini split ?
john off grid trion solar. Yes
Probably a non sense question but after you hook up your hose from the tank and hook into high side service valve, then open tank to fill hose and then zero out scale, purge air and then open ball valve to weigh in refrigerant?
As opposed to hooking hose into tank and to high side service valve, then zeroing out scale before refrigerant is released into hose.
You want the hose to fill with refrigerant but not allow it into the valve yet before zeroing because the hose will have weight in it when you are done so it will be more accurate of a weight, thanks and the valve core removal tools are a must to really get the procedure down, thanks!
Thank you again.
at 9:27 the text comment is somewhat wrong. While R410A is a near azeotropic some refrigerants are not azeotropic, hence the ratio of constituents in vapour is drastically different than the ratio of constituents as intended. You have to weigh such refrigerants as liquid, to have loaded mixture ratios as close as possible to intended.
Hey One Two, this is only in reference to weighing in any refrigerant in a large quantity to break the vacuum. Vapor is what applies the pressure so we are trying to weigh in the mixture in liquid, regardless if the refrigerant is r22 single component, r410a two component near azeotropic, or r407c zeotropic, thanks One Two!
In this video you charged r410a refrigerant from discharge line to the system.if it’s r22 unit so you need switch that T appion valve removal tool and micron gauge to discharge line from suction line,then add r22 to the system?
You don't have to switch anything since the system is in vacuum, weigh liquid into the liquid line to break the vacuum, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC thanks I always learned something from your channel.thanks again!
I have a quick question, I just bought the blue vac LTE. I pulled a few vacuums with it but each time I'll get down to about 300 microns and as soon as I shut it down and isolate to leak test it goes all the way back up to 2500 microns and stays or slowly starts falling back down but never below 2000 microns I even isolated it on a new recovery tank to check it on there but same thing. Do you know what could be causing this?
Try isolating the micron gauge with the valve you are using for just one second and then open it back up while keeping the vacuum pump running. I noticed that sometimes there is some trapped air in or around that valve so that is what I do usually but it is closer to a 300 micron jump not that high. Where is the micron gauge? are you able to get it close to the vapor line service valve and away from the vacuum pump? thanks
acservicetech thank you for getting back to me on this, I have the hilmore 4 valve manifold so I hook the 3/8 line up to my vacuum pumpand I remove the yellow hose and attach my micron gauge on the manifold
Can this same whole procedure be used on a carrier heat pump? Or are there any differences. Thanks
Yes it is the same procedure heat pump or ac condensor, thanks
acservicetech I appreciate your prompt reply 👍
Quick question.. would it technically be breaking your vaccum when you attach the hose from the refrigerant tank to the core removal tool?
Yes you have a vacuum trapped and we are breaking it with refrigerant regardless of the steps to get there, thanks!
I know it's off the topic in this video but do you have a video that shows how to charge 427a after recovering from R22 and do you still go back with factory charge amount?
I actually do not but weigh in about 90-95% of the poundage listed unless short lineset and then turn the unit on and add charge as needed, thanks Michael!
acservicetech thank you I appreciate that I was just making sure I did that correctly.
The tech I just had come out brazed a line that was leaking. Never ran nitrogen, never did an oil blow out. Only did this portion of refilling 3.5 lbs according to the sticker and never hooked guages by the TXV to check superheat and sub cool. I have a 60' line set. It only cools 50% of the evap coil(25° temp dif from both sides of evap) Did he not do the job correctly?
We only hook gauges up at the outdoor unit after vacuuming and breaking the vacuum with refrigerant. We check the charge with superheat or subcooling depending on the metering device to confirm the charge, thanks!
Hi Ac, If you have to do a repair on 1 part of the system can you trap the refrigerant in the half that you are not working on or do you have to remove it all first ?
Yes you can pump the unit down and hold the refrigerant in the outdoor unit. But you can't do the reverse and hold it in the evap on standard residential light commercial units, thanks
Great stuff, once again hope you don't mind me asking questions so much
Its ok!
Is it nessesary to remove the shrader valves? I am replacing a unit for my son and I do not have the core removal tool
It really really helps when vacuuming but it doesn't absolutely have to be done. A vacuum with removal of the valve cores may take 3-10 minutes where as one without may take 1-2 hours in order to reach below the 500 micron level. Then we do the standing vacuum test to see if it rises, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC p
10:00 - CAN YOU ADD REFRIGERANT AT THIS STEP WITH A GAGUE?
Interesting approach and I understand its purpose for faster vacuums, but I'm a little concerned with something.
You mentioned not using manifolds to reduce the potential for leaks, yet there seems to be a lot more connections being made and broken here that could lead to leaks or air and moisture in the system.
How often do you change the oil in your vacuum pump AC Service Tech? I've heard people say you should change it after every use. That seems exsessive to me. I have never changed the oil in the vacuum pump that I use for Auto AC.
If its not clear or has crap floating in it, its time to change it.. like if it has any color to it at all it will not pull the vacuum of the pumps potential.. like any dye or doodoo floaters...
The deeper the vacuum is needed (regarding to temperature) the fresher your oil must be. If you work during summer, you will less likely change your oil.
When you attached the refrigerant hose, did you not just allow air to get sucked in? Wouldn't it have been better to have vacuumed the system with the hose already attached with the ball valve closed?
I purged the air out of the new hose with refrigerant, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel I've been practicing your method since I've had issues with vacuuming through my gauges and ive had excellent results so far. Thanks. I want to be clear with the introduction of refrigerant as shown in your vid. From what I see, the hose valve is half open when you tighten the hose on. That release of refrigerant is enough to avoid allowing air into the vacuumed system correct?
Wouldn't have you sucked in air when connecting the hose from the bottle to the liquid line service valve? Regardless if you purged as you connected it, you would have sucked in the slightest amount of air mixed with the refrigerant as you depressed the schrader.
snaptrav . At 10:30 ? At this point I vacuum the yellow hose ; and then turn on the bottle valve. And so on.
@@Froggability mate you have no clue
So after evacuation is satisfied on a new AC system and high, low and vacuum knobs are shut off and I need to add the extra 410a which in my case is (18ft x .6) =10.8oz.
Do I after prepping jug on scale:
Open just high side guage with service valves on AC unit still (seated) closed until I read the 10.8oz on scale.
Then shut high side and jug off.
Open service valves on AC unit, turn on power and start up system?
INFO. I have no valve core tools so evacuation in my case will be I guess old school until I can purchase them. So straight hoses from guages to service valves.
In that case then you would attach the r410a bottle upside down to the yellow service hose, purge air to the end of the yellow hose connected to manifold. Then zero the scale and weight liquid refrigerant into the liquid side until you get to the weight desired. If it is a system that you can turn on and check in superheat or subcooling then weigh a little less than needed and do final adjustments while the system is running but I would highly highly recommend getting 3 appion valve core removal tools. I have them linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech , Have you looked up the video on vacuuming- "acservicetech full vacuum procedure"? Thanks
AC Service Tech LLC I do plan on getting the removal tools, just trying to save up for them. This job came up for a great friend and I wanted to get it done for him now. It is a new 3.5 ton Ruud AC unit and new Ruud "N" coil. I was told to do everything as I was asking you earlier except that they said to open both low and high side hoses after evacuation and weigh the 410a in, then shut hoses, open service valves and turn on power. I just thought opening both high and low side was incorrect and I only needed to open high side?
Yes thats right, just open the high side. It is just so the liquid has a chance to go through the metering device before making it to the suction side as a vapor. It is only a small amount 10.8oz so it would have been ok but we just want to get in a habit of breaking the vacuum with refrigerant into the high side. When you need to weigh more than that, the only way is to put it in the high side so you can get enough refrigerant in before the liquid has a chance to vaporize and apply pressure against the pressure of the bottle, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC thank you very much.
question why is it necessary to vacuum after pressure testing the line`s thank`s
You have to remove water vapor and air from the inside of the tubing so that it doesn't mix with the refrigerant and refrigerant oil. The system won't work if air is in there, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks for the get back
Sir if you refill an empty tank of refrigerant it is necessary to vacuum it before refilling tnx
Yes absolutely you must vacuum the empty tank before adding refrigerant, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannelonce I vacuum a recovery tank how much more can my micron gauge go up ? after I shut the suction valve off.
I have never seen a video on YT that explains how service techs use digital gauges to determine superheat. The analog gauge method is to use WB and DB temps to determine SH but the digital apparently don't use this method. I did see a Testo video that said their SH display was low side saturation temp. less suction line temp. Why is WB important on analog gauges and not on digital?
Digital gauges give you the actual superheat, but you have find out your target superheat using the wetbulb.
I found a Fieldpiece set of gauges that have sensors to enter WB and DB and it displays target SH on the screen. Fancy.
Yes Steve, I will at some point be going over the job app by fieldpiece. I would also like to do some videos with the digital gauges just to go over them with everyone, thanks.
Thanks. Where I got confused is when someone explains how to calculate target SH but doesn't clarify that target SH may be different from actual SH measured at the gauge. Also, that adding or recovering refrigerant should correct the actual SH to match the target.
Download for free (Check and Charge app) it will tell you to add or recover refrigerant to match your target superheat. when your actual superheat is above your target superheat, add refrigerant. and when is below, remove refrigerant. 5+/-
@acservicetech what would you use if you cannot use the core removal because service valves not straight or not enough space to hook them up
I just had this problem the other day. You don't really have a choice and you will need to just leave the valve core there and connect your hose with valve depressor on it. If you can get one on then do that though, thanks HVAC-JC!
You can't break your vacuum by just backseating the valves that come with a pre-charged factory setting and then turn the unit on and then add refrigerant if needed or is that bad
With the two position service valves backing up the valves is not like backseating with a 3 position valve which would shut the port off. These were two position valves and you can break the vacuum with either refrigerant from the system or from liquid out of the bottle into the liquid port, thanks Bobbe!
if you have your lines vacuumed to 250 microns and you open the lever of your valve core remover to perch air out, before replacing the valve, what your actually doing is letting more air in. If not correct please explain.
He had already added 1 pound of refrigerant to pressurize the system.
xrayneoo, he broke the vacuum adding refrigerant before replacing the cores.
Thank you both for answering the question and thanks for the question xrayneoo!
I just wanted to know since if one pound is enough to brake all the suction and is it the same for a freon that requires less pressure like R22?
xrayneoo 1 pound of refrigerant should be enough to get the system pressure above 0 psig so no air is sucked in. I always attach a pressure gauge to the opposite line of my micron gauge so I will always no I have positive pressure once a small amount of refrigerant is added to break the vacuum. One line has a micron gauge attached and one line has a compound pressure gauge attached when I start to pull a vacuum, most importantly do not get any air in the system.
I don’t understand why you used two valve core removing tools on the vapor line just for the micron gauge.
Its so the micron gauge doesnt get contaminated, then it wont read the microns correctly once contaminated with refrigerant oil
Whats up with all the mini split videos? Are people having more issues out of those little bitty units or something?
Hey there I have a couple questions if any boy can help.
Is it possible to use only one hose and pull a vacuum and just have the other port capped off.
Also I'm pulling down to below 100 microns in about 5 minutes is that possible ?
It is possible to pull down that low but the real test is when the vacuum pump is valved off and then shut off to see if the vacuum level rises. It is quicker and more effective to pull from both sides because of the restriction in the middle which is the metering device, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel ok thanks. I'll continue to double and triple check
You should never put 410a as a vapor for any situation anyways. Always put it in as a liquid.
Yes R-410A has to come out of the bottle as a liquid. Only single component refrigerants can come out of the bottle as a vapor such as R-22, thanks Chris!
Love your videos by the way, keep up the great work!
Thanks Chris, will do!
14:42 you started removing the appion valve core removal tools. I know you purged it everyone of them but isn’t the system under a vacuum!! So instead of causing a purge , to me it’s going to suck air in🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Aren't you compromising your vacuum buy connecting to that schrader port? Instead, remove your 1/4” vacuum hose from the VCRT, purging your hose after connecting to the VCRT and then opening the VCRT ball valve?
It seem risky connecting your hose to the VCRT schrader port when under vacuum.
Hey Patrick, this is breaking the vacuum with refrigerant from the bottle. You have to disconnect the vacuum hose to connect the hose with refrigerant to the valve core removal tool and we already determined the valve on the vcrt is holding vacuum with the standing vacuum test, thanks
I thought that when you add gas you put it into the low side. Something about pressures are to high on other side.