Such a great video, just wish the step of bleeding it had been recorded as well for us newbies. Saved so much time and money with this video. Thank you!
Best video ive seen, had trouble getting mine out, tried to avoid taking out all the surrounding parts, you really do need maximum access to clean around the injector so no shortcuts! will try again tommorow with more light! feeling more positive now ive seen how all the parts fit together. cheers dude your a a star.
OK chapter 2, got the injector out, good, got the plastic washer/seal out, a tiny chip of plastic went into the hole, ok ish, now the black seal didnt come out as clean as yours, it has caramelized into the hole been picking out tiny bits at a time with an electronics needle hook but its extremely difficult to get the black seal out of the recess spent 45 minutes on this alone and seem to be getting nowhere at this point. Any tips?
Thank you very much for this video. I waged absolute war with one of mine last night... was a right pita. Hammers, chisels, spanners, screwdrivers and 30mins later it was free! All sounding good again. Maybe I shouldn't have ignored it for two years 😂
The injector fuel union, to the which the pipe screws onto, in the Haynes manual says not to remove this. I have just done the seals on no2 injector and now have a diesel leak from somewhere. Do you normally remove and re-fit this union with no problems?
I think a great tip for anyone thinking of giving this a go themselves is to buy some Carb Cleaner and generously spray over the build up of all the leaked out liquid, give it about an hour or so and you should find that the injector will be easier to remove
Great video but you leaving that hole open for some parts of the procedure gave me serious anxiety..... They should make some temporary rubber plugs or something to put in there...
I did the same but I took the tips off put them in a ultrasonic cleaner machine and put them back together easy job and new seals on ebay £9 save yourself a small fortune at garages mine had a rough tick over on start up changed sensors and egr valve was the injector seals leaking after all
I have replaced many injectors over time, and never experienced the difficulty I now have in getting the car to run. I have bled it a thousand times and no start. checked relays, and fuses and still no joy. To remove my injectors .they had to be pulled, and they were well stuck. so the injector heads were removed to install the puller. everything was reinstalled as it should ..
This is one of the very best "how to's" I've seen in a very long time. Thank you very much as I need to do this on my wife's 2011 Mini. I feel much more confident to have a go at it now. Just one question please? On most diesel injector leak videos the only seal changed is the copper one on the injector tip; never any mention of the spacer and the rubber(?) upper seal. Do all injectors have these additional components ?
Jim seriously the best video and so informative I'd say this video is used in class rooms to teach machanics. I was worried about doing mine but not anymore and to be honest im kinda looking forward to it now cause I know I can't go to wrong once I have your video to hand. Only one injector is leaking on my focus... Would this cause the cars engine warning light to come on when in a high gear at lowish revs? Engine goes dead when over taking on a motorway. It's kinda dangerous. Keep up the great work Jim.......
Wow thanks for the kind comment, I wouldnt have said that would be causing your problem, you may have another problem aswell (mabie an injectors going dodgy) but the only real way to know is to read the car for fault codes to see whats stored then sort the leaking problem out and take it from there , hope that helps... 👍
Tightened my injector nuts on re-fitting today. Only set torque wrench to 5 Nm (Haynes manual says 4 Nm and 65 degrees). Didn't even get the first seven to 'click', before I could no longer tighten, as the studs were then so high in the nuts that the allen bit had no nut left to bite into. Studs had clearly been stretched too far before. When tightening last nut on Injector no.1 - 'ping', the injector stud snapped off in the head. Aaaarggghh ! This was not even 5Nm - Do NOT ever attempt to torque these nuts to 9 Nm !!!! After 12 hours hard work, I now have 3 injectors that are leak free, and one that is pissing diesel out, and the prospect of having to take to garage to get the head removed to get out the snapped stud (I hope) Beware people - had I known about these 'torque stretch' studs, I would have ordered 8 new studs and nuts before I started. Lesson learned at great cost and worry :(
Yes it is a shitty design! They are stretch bolts, but even when they are tightened to yield the clamping force isn't enough to avoid leaking injectors. I wonder if it is possible to increase the threads from m6 to m7 so they are beefier, and exert a bigger clamping force. Maybe you can soak the broken off bolts in penetration oil for some time and then weld a small nut to the broken off bolts and manage to get it out of the cylinder head. I just changed my 1.7 DTI corsa to a 1.6tdshiti, I must say that the 1.7 appears overengineered compared to the 1.6 plastic toy engine. Lots of horrendous engineering choices on the 1.6 tdci
I have a lot of black smoke at high revs and followed the process to remove the injectors, very straightforward and easy to follow. There was a lot of carbon on the tips, so I cleaned the injectors and spray pattern is now good. I have refitted, but am having an issue with bleeding the fuel system. I have a hand pump in the green return pipe as suggested, but no fuel is pulling through. I have checked the fuel return pipes are seated correctly etc...Should the fuel come through after many pumps
Stephen Hammerson hi, it may take quite a few pumps to get the fuel through depending on your primer, silly question but if its a hand pump one have you got it the right way round as they are fitted with one way valves and sometimes have a directional arrow on them,you can also try it with the ignition on, if your really struggling with that method try the cracking off injector fuel supply pipes individually/ one at a time and getting someone to crank the engine until fuel starts to spit out the union then tighten that one and repeat for the other 3 and it should fire up afterwards
Thanks for your reply. Yeah, pump was fitted in correct direction but was not working. I found a way to make it work by placing my finger over the exit outlet, and as the bulb expanded it pulled the fuel through. So all is good and engine starts. Still have a little black smoke, so will check air filter and egr valve next.
I have a fiesta with the 90bhp variant, and will be fitting the 110 spec injectors, I've seen there's 4 seals on the injector (copper washer, and 2 on the injector and one seal) but in the video only saw the copper washer and seal, are the others worth doing? Also are new stretch bolts needed or not important either? Thanks for a really detailed and nice video. No stupid 10 year old music, nice and calm and easy to follow
Hi there, very good vid,thanks! I’ve had 2 out of 4 leaking and swapped all four copper seals. Only thing I’ve struggled with was the rubber seal. I forced a 17mm socket in the seal with wd40, that covers the metal circle in the tube. This was the only way for me to get the whole rubber on the outside circle. Your way 13/14 mm socket I wasted 3 of them. Either you are handy or I’m clumsy, probably the last option😉.
I also wasted the first rubber seal :-) It's by default... I think everyone makes this mistake the first time. Anyway : I was able to place it with a 14mm socket with WD40.
thank you, very well done! However better use Silicone spay instead of WD40 on the rubber seal. The mineral oil in WD40 will cause the rubber to swell which will shorten its lifetime.
Great video thanks. Only problem I have is followed it all and put back together can see it slowly leaking still... the rubber seal didn't go in as easy as yours seemed is it possible being too aggressive simply ruined the new seal or perhaps it was not having anytools to clean the inside part so crud inside is causing it to leak... I bought a set and only 1 is leaking so 3 more attempts left 😂
Hi, jim as I don`t have a fuel pump connected to my ford focus Tdci 1.6 2011 could i bleed from the fuel filter ? and when you say bleed by cranking the engine and loosen the inlet feed nut to the injector is this with the battery connected? One last question if the car has air in fuel line will the engine still run,
Hi, I'm finding it hard to find out how to remove the fuel return pipe to bleed the fuel through, I can't see how to get the hose off the green marked joint at the end of your video.. any tips how to do this?
Thank you so much for such a detailed video. I have a 2006 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi with a blowing injector. I didn't know where to start but you have solved it for me. Thank you 😉
Do you normally have any trouble taking the union off the injector with it leaking afterwards? The union to where the fuel pipe screws onto? It says not to remove it in the Haynes manual, but I removed it and now have a slight fuel leak?
Hi - Great, informative video - I have a 1.8 tdci and can source the copper seals no problem but can you point me in the direction of the O rings and plastic spacers - loads of kits for the 1.6 but not the 1 8. . ??
If your having trouble just pop into any ford main dealers parts department they can source them for you, they arnt expensive - or ask them for the part numbers and you can find them that way 👍
Hi there, you can disconnect the battery if you wanted but theres no need to aslong as you dont switch the ignition on until after its all finished, and yeah this particular leaks caused from faulty seals 👍
Hey, this is by far the best video I've seen... I had black death all over my berlingo 1.6 and it was tapping like you demonstrated... Everything runs great now and sounds just like it should.. No oil leaks but injector 4 is leaking diesal :( I can't locate the exact leak but have you any advice? I've changed the seals/coppers 3 times hoping it might seal up but no luck.
Thanks! If its leaking diesel its most likley going to be from the return pipe or the feed pipe, see if the return pipe is clipped in 100% and check it for damage, if it is clipped in fine then unclip it and check to see if the little rubber seal is still intact and attached. Check the feed pipe is nice and tight 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hey, thanks for the response, unfortunately I replaced all them tiny little rubber seals on the return lines and all is clean on top. It appears to be coming from the injector itself which is a little odd. Maybe the high pressure fuel line but who knows! Getting a specialist to look tomorrow as I've lost the will to live. Thanks for your help! You saved me around £350 with your video so I'm still chuffed. 😁
Hi great video thanyou for doing this i changed sealer just like you did .i started the engin worked fe second it stoped want start agabe dont know way..is it to do whith air on diesel now need to bleed it out
Hi, dumb question, but if the seals are on the loverside on the injektors, why is it wet or dirty on the top side, just benethhe the hoses... Thanks for replying, ang great tourtorial.. OZ
Hi there, because when they wear out / fail they blow / go past the seal and up the injector seat / tunnel and blows out the top rubber seal then sets hard
Hi. Nice job!! 10 months ago a Ford mechanic replaced the injector joints and also a cracked air intake hose on the motor. The car was running poorly and I can't remember what else. He showed me (diesel fuel ?) bubbling next to one or two of the injectors. He had a hell of a time getting out one of the copper washers. Anyway, the problem that I have now is an odor coming inside the car through the ventilation. I thought it was a hole in the exhaust manifold, but now I see (what seems to be) oil at the base of the injectors, and I saw some blue smoke rising from that point when the car was idling. I smelled some of the fluid on a paper towel and it doesn't smell like diesel. I'm thinking that this is running down onto the turbo / exhaust manifold? Do you have any ideas? Thanx
Obviously without actually working on the car myself it would be near impossible to say for sure, however if your injector seals are leaking like you said around the bases (it wont smell like diesel as they dont actually leak diesel its a carbon like substance) id get them changed first and clean the area and then test again, you may find that solves your problem as when they leak they can let off a smell that youd notice in the car 👍
First of all thanks for the video, very thorough. I don't suppose you have the tourqe specs for the injectors and anything else that needs removing do you please. What to do the job myself but want to ensure I have the correct tourqe wrench before I start. Many thanks.
Martyn Allatt thanks! The torque settings for the injector brackets are at 18:00 (i believe, 9NM then 75 degrees with a bar) the rocker cover bolts are around 15nm there only small bolts so dont need swinging off! So realistically you only need a quarter drive (small) torque wrench, Hope that helps 👍
Hi. Nice video. My car sounds the same and my car mechanich is also say its looks diesel injector’s sound. How long I can run the car? On which max. speed? I am at hill station round 200km away from home :(
Couple of things you seem to have missed. You need to clean the carbon from the bottom of the injector where the copper washer sits to ensure a good fit. Also the injector nozzle does need to be cleaned. Build-up of carbon or glazing will alter the spray pattern or block the holes. Place the injector tips in carb cleaner whilst you clean the mess up around the head. And once its all back together pray you can get it to start.....its not as easy as it seems!
Martyn Lee thanks for the comment dude, i had cleaned around the nozzle where the copper washer sits but i dont dip the end of the nozzle like you said in carb cleaner while trying to clean the top that would not only be super awkward but abit of a waste of time for this job as it wasn't a problem with the running of the car due to fuel injector blockage etc, but just leaking seals, i do give them a clean after with brake cleaner and abit of maintenance spray but you shouldn't mess with the end too much if not needed, ive never seen one clogged or carbon build up right on the nozzle jets as they are on a high pressure fuel system, that would indicate another problem, also everyone i do fires up pretty much straight away as i make sure the fuel system is fully primed. Thanks for your comment and view thou its appreciated 👍
jimmyboy283james no worries. I run an 2010 s40 with the same engine. Currently sitting at 155000 miles, owned from new. Seal replacements are pretty much a job you get used to lol
SunzOffski just re use the old ones if they arnt damaged or anything, theres no need to buy new nuts aslong as you torque/ tighten them enough you wont have a problem. End of the day your also still putting them on the old studs so theres not much sense in putting new nuts on old studs is there if something was going to break it would be the old stud and your not told to change the studs... Sorry abit of a long winded rambling answer..... In short no re use old!
Agree with using the old nuts. If you are careful removing them they are fine. Beware that they are made from a very soft metal and it is easy to destroy them.
Hi Jim what size Allen key socket do I need to remove the injector locking bolts 6mm too small 8mm to big I've also tied a 1/4 inch and that's too small, can you help me please.
Where exactelly u have to place the priming tool in the green return line?into the one which comes from injectors or the one which comes from the filter?
Hi there, I normally put it on the fuel return line from the fuel filter until it pumps through, you can also put it on the supply line if your using a manuel pump and push it through till it goes hard 👍
Hi great video, i just replaced all the seals but after putting everything back i cant start it? what could be the reason and did you do enything to it after replacing the seals to start it?
It most likley will have an air lock in the fuel if everything is put back together correctly. Leave it to stand for 15 mins so the starter motor cools down as some cars disable the starter after some time of cranking and give the fuel system a really good bleed before trying to start again 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM thank you for the reply, I started it, the solution was to eliminate the error codes, after eliminating them I used starter spray after a few turnes on starter spray the engine started to run by itself. The guy who came with the diagnostic equipment said that the error of the belt sensor was the reason. Cheers wish a fantastic day sir
Just about to attempt this, following this superb tutorial. But before I start can you tell me the diameter of the injector seat cleaner that you used plz? Is about the only item I don't have and don't fancy buying loads of different sets to find the 'right' one.
Thankyou! To be honest i dont know the diameter of the cleaner i used although id take a guess its about 12mm in diameter, sorry i cant be much more help 👍👍
All done. Perfect video tutorial. Injectors came out so easily and they had absolutely no carbon build up. Copper washers came out with the injectors and looked almost new. The black seal washers, might as well not have been there for the condition they was in. All 3 washers/spacers replaced and the green o ring on the fuel feed connectors also replaced. Car sorted many thanks
Injectors will make it run really bad or not run at all, seals will generally just make a chuffing noise and leak, if unsure get someone to do a fuel leak off test first, that will tell you if the injectors are working as they should 👍
HI, embarking on making sure I have all the right tools, the injector cleaning tools I can find on amazon come as sets, do you know what mil size the injector bore is? The tool you seem to be using seems tapered but the ones I found are fixed size...
@@andyward1970 hi! I dont know the exact size of the bore but its around the 15mm mark, some crud will fall down you cant really stop that but to minimize hoover or used compressed air around the injectors before pulling them out so the big bits youve broken up get removed then i put blue roll down the bores when ive got injector out further clean the top and once im happy its clean enough hoover/ blow top again pull out the blue roll and then clean the bores with the tool. Hope this helps 👍
Hi there! No dont touch the insides of the injector unless you want to end up buying new ones, if you want to clean them inside the best way is after all this is done use premium fuels or a good fuel additive 👍
Can i use the old white spacer?because ive order the whole kit but it didnt come with spacer ive got only orings black rubber injector seals and the small little green seals for return pipes
Providing you put each injector back in the exact same place and everythings tight- so no fuel leaks it will be most likely just be a case of air in the system that needs working out 👍
Theres a few ways , Either get a hand primer like shown in the video, or you can try keep cranking it periodically and it will work itself out. Or you can crack one of the injector fuel supply pipes off, get someone to crank the car and when fuel starts spluttering through tighten it and repeat this for all 4 injectors then it should start, beware though using this method as fuel will go everywhere
will leaking injector seal cause it to blow black smoke out of exhaust changed fuel pump regulator and new filter its chucking black soot out of exhaust
Hi there, not generally although it wouldnt help, its generally caused by incomplete diesel combustion (or excess fuelling) was it doing it before you replaced the pump? Can be caused by a number of things like : Incorrect timing Dirty or worn injectors Injectors sticking open too long (Common Rail Diesel type) Over-fuelling Faulty turbocharger (ie not enough air to match the fuel) Incorrect valve clearance Incorrect air/fuel ratio Low cylinder compression (eg sticking piston rings or worn components) Dirty air cleaner Restricted induction system (eg system too small or kinked inlet piping) Carboned up intake manifolds (esp Common Rail Diesels) Other engine tune factors Poor quality fuel Excessive carbon build up in combustion and exhaust spaces Cool operating temperatures If it was doing it before your work, and youve sorted anything else obvious out try running a quality fuel e.g. shell v power for a few tanks and a fuel cleaner and taking it for a few long spirited drives as the black smoke wouldnt clear immediatley anyway as the engine and exhaust would be full of it 👍
Im in the process of doing this on my 2006 1.6 tdci focus. Ive changed all the seals and put it all back together. But a bit confused on the bleeding of the fuel system. When i unplug the return pipe, which bit do i attach the pump to? And what do i do with the othe end of the pump?
Such a great video, just wish the step of bleeding it had been recorded as well for us newbies. Saved so much time and money with this video. Thank you!
Best video ive seen, had trouble getting mine out, tried to avoid taking out all the surrounding parts, you really do need maximum access to clean around the injector so no shortcuts! will try again tommorow with more light! feeling more positive now ive seen how all the parts fit together. cheers dude your a a star.
What an awesome comment , thanks for watching👍👍
OK chapter 2, got the injector out, good, got the plastic washer/seal out, a tiny chip of plastic went into the hole, ok ish, now the black seal didnt come out as clean as yours, it has caramelized into the hole been picking out tiny bits at a time with an electronics needle hook but its extremely difficult to get the black seal out of the recess spent 45 minutes on this alone and seem to be getting nowhere at this point. Any tips?
Many thanks.Mine has just started to leak.I am lucky.There is no burned carbon around the injectors.Hopefully it goes well.Thanks again mate.
in order not to lose fuel return pipe clips, you only need to push on them to unplug pipes, instead of removing
Thank you very much for this video. I waged absolute war with one of mine last night... was a right pita. Hammers, chisels, spanners, screwdrivers and 30mins later it was free! All sounding good again. Maybe I shouldn't have ignored it for two years 😂
grazie , veramente un buon video .... thanks, a really good video
I have the same problem. Good to know that its not too difficult job just time taking. Great video, thank you!
Thank you in advance for the torx tip you used to insert the injectors.
oil leaks around 1.6PSA injectors usually come from the injector retainer bolts threadings
How do you fix this?
@@deanharris7482 loctite 566 threadlocker in 8x injector bolts
yanntwelve Thanks! I will order some, but I do have silicone sealant , for bonding the cam cover on, would that work?
@@deanharris7482 cam cover should Be mounted with Black silicone seal heat and oil resistant like loctite 5910
Mate, you're a life saver! Engine sounds new again
The injector fuel union, to the which the pipe screws onto, in the Haynes manual says not to remove this. I have just done the seals on no2 injector and now have a diesel leak from somewhere. Do you normally remove and re-fit this union with no problems?
I think a great tip for anyone thinking of giving this a go themselves is to buy some Carb Cleaner and generously spray over the build up of all the leaked out liquid, give it about an hour or so and you should find that the injector will be easier to remove
Man this is the best video and clean job ever...thankyou
Great video but you leaving that hole open for some parts of the procedure gave me serious anxiety..... They should make some temporary rubber plugs or something to put in there...
I actually bung the holes with blue roll to try prevent anything going down 👍
Thank you so much, i have the same engine in my c30 and the same problem with leaking fuel injectors, this video made it so much easier for me
Thats great to hear! Thanks for commenting and watching 👍
Brilliant :-) had my 1.6 tdci a week and noticed all that burnt diesel around the injectors. I'll order a set and get them fitted
Damn good video, one of the best out there 👍👍👍👍👍👌👌
Thanks for the awesome comment 👍👍👍
Thanks for the video. I would just clean the engine before I start to do the job. Besides that, great piece of info.
the best tutorial for this type of engine I saw, thanks man
alehand76 thanks! Glad you liked it 👍👍👍👍
Thank you for this brilliant video! Now I know why engine from my ford focus mk2 tdci 1.6 make this noise! 😁!
I did the same but I took the tips off put them in a ultrasonic cleaner machine and put them back together easy job and new seals on ebay £9 save yourself a small fortune at garages mine had a rough tick over on start up changed sensors and egr valve was the injector seals leaking after all
I have replaced many injectors over time, and never experienced the difficulty I now have in getting the car to run. I have bled it a thousand times and no start. checked relays, and fuses and still no joy. To remove my injectors .they had to be pulled, and they were well stuck. so the injector heads were removed to install the puller. everything was reinstalled as it should ..
Excellent video, just finished replacing the injector seals of my 2007 ford focus 1.6 tdci. Thanks!
very good master
What is the size of that injector bore reamer and wouldn't want to use it before you install the new seal? Btw., great video!
Rather then music would of been better to talk way through the job of replacement...
Very Good Job 👍.
Thanks for Reggae music.
Thanks for that vidéo Don’t you think it woul have been better to claque the bore injector before fixing the gasket? Nice video!
This is one of the very best "how to's" I've seen in a very long time. Thank you very much as I need to do this on my wife's 2011 Mini. I feel much more confident to have a go at it now.
Just one question please? On most diesel injector leak videos the only seal changed is the copper one on the injector tip; never any mention of the spacer and the rubber(?) upper seal. Do all injectors have these additional components ?
Thanks for the kind comments, and No not all injectors have all those it varies from vehicle to vehicle 👍
Jim seriously the best video and so informative I'd say this video is used in class rooms to teach machanics.
I was worried about doing mine but not anymore and to be honest im kinda looking forward to it now cause I know I can't go to wrong once I have your video to hand.
Only one injector is leaking on my focus... Would this cause the cars engine warning light to come on when in a high gear at lowish revs? Engine goes dead when over taking on a motorway. It's kinda dangerous.
Keep up the great work Jim.......
Wow thanks for the kind comment, I wouldnt have said that would be causing your problem, you may have another problem aswell (mabie an injectors going dodgy) but the only real way to know is to read the car for fault codes to see whats stored then sort the leaking problem out and take it from there , hope that helps... 👍
two of my copper washers are stuck solid screwdriver isn't working, also one of the injectors came out with the head sleeve
Tightened my injector nuts on re-fitting today. Only set torque wrench to 5 Nm (Haynes manual says 4 Nm and 65 degrees). Didn't even get the first seven to 'click', before I could no longer tighten, as the studs were then so high in the nuts that the allen bit had no nut left to bite into. Studs had clearly been stretched too far before. When tightening last nut on Injector no.1 - 'ping', the injector stud snapped off in the head. Aaaarggghh ! This was not even 5Nm - Do NOT ever attempt to torque these nuts to 9 Nm !!!!
After 12 hours hard work, I now have 3 injectors that are leak free, and one that is pissing diesel out, and the prospect of having to take to garage to get the head removed to get out the snapped stud (I hope)
Beware people - had I known about these 'torque stretch' studs, I would have ordered 8 new studs and nuts before I started.
Lesson learned at great cost and worry :(
Yes it is a shitty design! They are stretch bolts, but even when they are tightened to yield the clamping force isn't enough to avoid leaking injectors. I wonder if it is possible to increase the threads from m6 to m7 so they are beefier, and exert a bigger clamping force. Maybe you can soak the broken off bolts in penetration oil for some time and then weld a small nut to the broken off bolts and manage to get it out of the cylinder head. I just changed my 1.7 DTI corsa to a 1.6tdshiti, I must say that the 1.7 appears overengineered compared to the 1.6 plastic toy engine. Lots of horrendous engineering choices on the 1.6 tdci
... and to avoid diesel pissing out, just unplug the injector and run on 3 bangers? Until you get the broken stud out
Great video, very thorough. I think you'll find the web of the seal fits over the sleeve though else not sure what it's sealing.
I have a lot of black smoke at high revs and followed the process to remove the injectors, very straightforward and easy to follow. There was a lot of carbon on the tips, so I cleaned the injectors and spray pattern is now good. I have refitted, but am having an issue with bleeding the fuel system. I have a hand pump in the green return pipe as suggested, but no fuel is pulling through. I have checked the fuel return pipes are seated correctly etc...Should the fuel come through after many pumps
Stephen Hammerson hi, it may take quite a few pumps to get the fuel through depending on your primer, silly question but if its a hand pump one have you got it the right way round as they are fitted with one way valves and sometimes have a directional arrow on them,you can also try it with the ignition on, if your really struggling with that method try the cracking off injector fuel supply pipes individually/ one at a time and getting someone to crank the engine until fuel starts to spit out the union then tighten that one and repeat for the other 3 and it should fire up afterwards
Thanks for your reply. Yeah, pump was fitted in correct direction but was not working. I found a way to make it work by placing my finger over the exit outlet, and as the bulb expanded it pulled the fuel through. So all is good and engine starts. Still have a little black smoke, so will check air filter and egr valve next.
Great video, thanks for making it 🚙👍
I have a fiesta with the 90bhp variant, and will be fitting the 110 spec injectors,
I've seen there's 4 seals on the injector (copper washer, and 2 on the injector and one seal) but in the video only saw the copper washer and seal, are the others worth doing?
Also are new stretch bolts needed or not important either? Thanks for a really detailed and nice video.
No stupid 10 year old music, nice and calm and easy to follow
Hi there, very good vid,thanks!
I’ve had 2 out of 4 leaking and swapped all four copper seals. Only thing I’ve struggled with was the rubber seal. I forced a 17mm socket in the seal with wd40, that covers the metal circle in the tube. This was the only way for me to get the whole rubber on the outside circle. Your way 13/14 mm socket I wasted 3 of them. Either you are handy or I’m clumsy, probably the last option😉.
Aha! Yeah they can be a pain in the backside! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
I also wasted the first rubber seal :-) It's by default... I think everyone makes this mistake the first time. Anyway : I was able to place it with a 14mm socket with WD40.
thank you, very well done! However better use Silicone spay instead of WD40 on the rubber seal. The mineral oil in WD40 will cause the rubber to swell which will shorten its lifetime.
Great video ,thanks saved lots of my time
Thats great! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Perfektní video pomohlo děkují 🙃
Wow Great video... explaining everything very well .. and not making the job difficult for people many thanks 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video thanks. Only problem I have is followed it all and put back together can see it slowly leaking still... the rubber seal didn't go in as easy as yours seemed is it possible being too aggressive simply ruined the new seal or perhaps it was not having anytools to clean the inside part so crud inside is causing it to leak... I bought a set and only 1 is leaking so 3 more attempts left 😂
Yeah its easy to wreck the new seals ive done it a few times too! 🤣
Nice one good too with the screw driver to get the seal out . And the air bleed .👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
good video, nice and clear, the sound effects at the end show the difference,
Thanks! And thanks for commenting 👍
bravo ottimo lavoro!
Hi, jim as I don`t have a fuel pump connected to my ford focus Tdci 1.6 2011 could i bleed from the fuel filter ?
and when you say bleed by cranking the engine and loosen the inlet feed nut to the injector is this with the battery connected?
One last question if the car has air in fuel line will the engine still run,
Great vid, thanks. not the same vehicle as mine but some awesome tips that I can transfer over to my car.
Hi, I'm finding it hard to find out how to remove the fuel return pipe to bleed the fuel through, I can't see how to get the hose off the green marked joint at the end of your video.. any tips how to do this?
Thank you so much for such a detailed video. I have a 2006 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi with a blowing injector. I didn't know where to start but you have solved it for me. Thank you 😉
Thats great! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍👍
Hi guys my ford focus TDCI 2007 2,0 is very smoking white smoke sometimes change to Grey. And it doesn't want to start at all.
Do you normally have any trouble taking the union off the injector with it leaking afterwards? The union to where the fuel pipe screws onto? It says not to remove it in the Haynes manual, but I removed it and now have a slight fuel leak?
Fantastic how to, really clear and well presented, cheers 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the kind comment! 👍
Great video thanks a lot!
Great vid thanks, got the job done and pretty easy to follow.
Adamsın dostum ne güzel bi video kaydetmişsin, on numara beş yıldız.
Hi - Great, informative video - I have a 1.8 tdci and can source the copper seals no problem but can you point me in the direction of the O rings and plastic spacers - loads of kits for the 1.6 but not the 1 8. . ??
If your having trouble just pop into any ford main dealers parts department they can source them for you, they arnt expensive - or ask them for the part numbers and you can find them that way 👍
Did the new injectors have to be recoded to the engine
would it be advised to disconnect the battery? as you are disconnecting the wire harnesses.
also, would the leak only be caused by damaged seals?
Hi there, you can disconnect the battery if you wanted but theres no need to aslong as you dont switch the ignition on until after its all finished, and yeah this particular leaks caused from faulty seals 👍
Hey, this is by far the best video I've seen... I had black death all over my berlingo 1.6 and it was tapping like you demonstrated...
Everything runs great now and sounds just like it should.. No oil leaks but injector 4 is leaking diesal :( I can't locate the exact leak but have you any advice? I've changed the seals/coppers 3 times hoping it might seal up but no luck.
Thanks! If its leaking diesel its most likley going to be from the return pipe or the feed pipe, see if the return pipe is clipped in 100% and check it for damage, if it is clipped in fine then unclip it and check to see if the little rubber seal is still intact and attached. Check the feed pipe is nice and tight 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hey, thanks for the response, unfortunately I replaced all them tiny little rubber seals on the return lines and all is clean on top. It appears to be coming from the injector itself which is a little odd. Maybe the high pressure fuel line but who knows! Getting a specialist to look tomorrow as I've lost the will to live. Thanks for your help! You saved me around £350 with your video so I'm still chuffed. 😁
Does anything need torquing up at the end
Hi great video thanyou for doing this i changed sealer just like you did .i started the engin worked fe second it stoped want start agabe dont know way..is it to do whith air on diesel now need to bleed it out
Hi yes it will be because of air in the diesel system 👍
Great video. Thanks for the guide. I’ve got 1.6 with the same issue. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🏴
No problem. Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍
Excellent video, thanks for sharing.
Can broken injector seals also lead to oil standing on the motor / leaking oil?
Hi, dumb question, but if the seals are on the loverside on the injektors, why is it wet or dirty on the top side, just benethhe the hoses... Thanks for replying, ang great tourtorial.. OZ
Hi there, because when they wear out / fail they blow / go past the seal and up the injector seat / tunnel and blows out the top rubber seal then sets hard
Hi. Nice job!! 10 months ago a Ford mechanic replaced the injector joints and also a cracked air intake hose on the motor. The car was running poorly and I can't remember what else. He showed me (diesel fuel ?) bubbling next to one or two of the injectors. He had a hell of a time getting out one of the copper washers. Anyway, the problem that I have now is an odor coming inside the car through the ventilation. I thought it was a hole in the exhaust manifold, but now I see (what seems to be) oil at the base of the injectors, and I saw some blue smoke rising from that point when the car was idling. I smelled some of the fluid on a paper towel and it doesn't smell like diesel. I'm thinking that this is running down onto the turbo / exhaust manifold? Do you have any ideas? Thanx
Obviously without actually working on the car myself it would be near impossible to say for sure, however if your injector seals are leaking like you said around the bases (it wont smell like diesel as they dont actually leak diesel its a carbon like substance) id get them changed first and clean the area and then test again, you may find that solves your problem as when they leak they can let off a smell that youd notice in the car 👍
Hi,
A brief list with the tools needed? What sockets? Are these metric or imperial?
Cheers!
Can dirty injectors cause bad smoking in the car
Very nice video.
I have same engine but after the procedure it doesn't start.
I try to bleed fuel system but nothing
A quanti Nm vengono stretti i bulloni degli iniettori?
Same problem have JTD and CDTI engines.
man, you got a really good video, ten five stars ...
Thankyou!👍
at 16:22 i can see the lip of the seal, and at 16:24 there is no lip. Did you just pressed the seal until the lip fell off?
No! Dont do that or the seal is broken! It has to tuck behind the lip to seal properly
First of all thanks for the video, very thorough. I don't suppose you have the tourqe specs for the injectors and anything else that needs removing do you please. What to do the job myself but want to ensure I have the correct tourqe wrench before I start.
Many thanks.
Martyn Allatt thanks! The torque settings for the injector brackets are at 18:00 (i believe, 9NM then 75 degrees with a bar) the rocker cover bolts are around 15nm there only small bolts so dont need swinging off! So realistically you only need a quarter drive (small) torque wrench, Hope that helps 👍
ALL THINGS JIM
Perfect, big thanks.
Sats 9Nm & 75deg on here - Haynes manual says 4Nm and 65 deg ?
Split the diff at 6Nm and 70 deg I say
Hi. Nice video. My car sounds the same and my car mechanich is also say its looks diesel injector’s sound. How long I can run the car? On which max. speed? I am at hill station round 200km away from home :(
Couple of things you seem to have missed. You need to clean the carbon from the bottom of the injector where the copper washer sits to ensure a good fit. Also the injector nozzle does need to be cleaned. Build-up of carbon or glazing will alter the spray pattern or block the holes. Place the injector tips in carb cleaner whilst you clean the mess up around the head. And once its all back together pray you can get it to start.....its not as easy as it seems!
Martyn Lee thanks for the comment dude, i had cleaned around the nozzle where the copper washer sits but i dont dip the end of the nozzle like you said in carb cleaner while trying to clean the top that would not only be super awkward but abit of a waste of time for this job as it wasn't a problem with the running of the car due to fuel injector blockage etc, but just leaking seals, i do give them a clean after with brake cleaner and abit of maintenance spray but you shouldn't mess with the end too much if not needed, ive never seen one clogged or carbon build up right on the nozzle jets as they are on a high pressure fuel system, that would indicate another problem, also everyone i do fires up pretty much straight away as i make sure the fuel system is fully primed. Thanks for your comment and view thou its appreciated 👍
jimmyboy283james no worries. I run an 2010 s40 with the same engine. Currently sitting at 155000 miles, owned from new. Seal replacements are pretty much a job you get used to lol
SunzOffski just re use the old ones if they arnt damaged or anything, theres no need to buy new nuts aslong as you torque/ tighten them enough you wont have a problem. End of the day your also still putting them on the old studs so theres not much sense in putting new nuts on old studs is there if something was going to break it would be the old stud and your not told to change the studs... Sorry abit of a long winded rambling answer..... In short no re use old!
Agree with using the old nuts. If you are careful removing them they are fine. Beware that they are made from a very soft metal and it is easy to destroy them.
Soaked mine in Winns diesel fuel injector cleaner - then re-used it by dosing up my fuel filter so not wasted
Thank you for doing this :-)
Hi Jim what size Allen key socket do I need to remove the injector locking bolts 6mm too small 8mm to big I've also tied a 1/4 inch and that's too small, can you help me please.
CRV7
Where exactelly u have to place the priming tool in the green return line?into the one which comes from injectors or the one which comes from the filter?
Hi there, I normally put it on the fuel return line from the fuel filter until it pumps through, you can also put it on the supply line if your using a manuel pump and push it through till it goes hard 👍
Hi great video, i just replaced all the seals but after putting everything back i cant start it? what could be the reason and did you do enything to it after replacing the seals to start it?
It most likley will have an air lock in the fuel if everything is put back together correctly. Leave it to stand for 15 mins so the starter motor cools down as some cars disable the starter after some time of cranking and give the fuel system a really good bleed before trying to start again 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM thank you for the reply, I started it, the solution was to eliminate the error codes, after eliminating them I used starter spray after a few turnes on starter spray the engine started to run by itself. The guy who came with the diagnostic equipment said that the error of the belt sensor was the reason. Cheers wish a fantastic day sir
What store should i try getting the washer set?
Just about to attempt this, following this superb tutorial. But before I start can you tell me the diameter of the injector seat cleaner that you used plz?
Is about the only item I don't have and don't fancy buying loads of different sets to find the 'right' one.
Thankyou! To be honest i dont know the diameter of the cleaner i used although id take a guess its about 12mm in diameter, sorry i cant be much more help 👍👍
Ok ive just done a google search for the diameter of the injector copper washer and its a 15mm so 15-16 cleaning tool you will need if thats correct👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Ok thanks for the reply
@@ALLTHINGSJIM That's wonderful thank you
All done. Perfect video tutorial. Injectors came out so easily and they had absolutely no carbon build up. Copper washers came out with the injectors and looked almost new. The black seal washers, might as well not have been there for the condition they was in.
All 3 washers/spacers replaced and the green o ring on the fuel feed connectors also replaced.
Car sorted many thanks
Hi. your job is very niche.
plz where can i find the glow plug? my car is as this car ford focus da3.
i would appreciate it.
How do you know if it’s the seals or the injectors that are bad?
Injectors will make it run really bad or not run at all, seals will generally just make a chuffing noise and leak, if unsure get someone to do a fuel leak off test first, that will tell you if the injectors are working as they should 👍
Good video thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
HI, embarking on making sure I have all the right tools, the injector cleaning tools I can find on amazon come as sets, do you know what mil size the injector bore is? The tool you seem to be using seems tapered but the ones I found are fixed size...
Also, was wondering why the crud doesn't fall through the hole into the cylinder when you're using the tool to clean, is it closed off?
@@andyward1970 hi! I dont know the exact size of the bore but its around the 15mm mark, some crud will fall down you cant really stop that but to minimize hoover or used compressed air around the injectors before pulling them out so the big bits youve broken up get removed then i put blue roll down the bores when ive got injector out further clean the top and once im happy its clean enough hoover/ blow top again pull out the blue roll and then clean the bores with the tool. Hope this helps 👍
This vid is great. Just a question, did you clean the injectors inside, how, what did you used?
Hi there! No dont touch the insides of the injector unless you want to end up buying new ones, if you want to clean them inside the best way is after all this is done use premium fuels or a good fuel additive 👍
How do I bleed through the hose you label as green at the end? Which end needs sucking on etc thanks
You can do it with a hand pump or an airline , you suck it from the end going to the engine not the end going back to the tank 👍
Can i use the old white spacer?because ive order the whole kit but it didnt come with spacer ive got only orings black rubber injector seals and the small little green seals for return pipes
You should get away with using the white spacer if its not damaged /distorted and you cant source new 👍
Neznam gde se sipa ulje za servis volan ne vidim posudu u ford fokus tdci 2006g
great video i wish i could do :)
Thanks, give it a try you might suprise yourself! 👍
How many mileage have the car ?
Can u make a video of how exactelly bleed the fuel system please?
Watch the one with the diesel filter, I explain how to do it in that one 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM have you a link can’t find it
Why would u fit the new top seal then risk damaging it by shoving the cleaning tool through it. 🤔
Is it HHDA (?)
Hi, do the injectors need replacing in the same irder they were taken fron? Thanks
Yes its important you put them back in where each came from 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM thank you. And thank you also for the great video
Hi, i have cleaned 3 injectors and did the same proces after that car jist cranks but wont start do you know what it could be ?
Providing you put each injector back in the exact same place and everythings tight- so no fuel leaks it will be most likely just be a case of air in the system that needs working out 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thanls for reply, i think it could be air ,how to take this out
Theres a few ways , Either get a hand primer like shown in the video, or you can try keep cranking it periodically and it will work itself out. Or you can crack one of the injector fuel supply pipes off, get someone to crank the car and when fuel starts spluttering through tighten it and repeat this for all 4 injectors then it should start, beware though using this method as fuel will go everywhere
will leaking injector seal cause it to blow black smoke out of exhaust changed fuel pump regulator and new filter its chucking black soot out of exhaust
Hi there, not generally although it wouldnt help, its generally caused by incomplete diesel combustion (or excess fuelling) was it doing it before you replaced the pump? Can be caused by a number of things like :
Incorrect timing
Dirty or worn injectors
Injectors sticking open too long (Common Rail Diesel type)
Over-fuelling
Faulty turbocharger (ie not enough air to match the fuel)
Incorrect valve clearance
Incorrect air/fuel ratio
Low cylinder compression (eg sticking piston rings or worn components)
Dirty air cleaner
Restricted induction system (eg system too small or kinked inlet piping)
Carboned up intake manifolds (esp Common Rail Diesels)
Other engine tune factors
Poor quality fuel
Excessive carbon build up in combustion and exhaust spaces
Cool operating temperatures
If it was doing it before your work, and youve sorted anything else obvious out try running a quality fuel e.g. shell v power for a few tanks and a fuel cleaner and taking it for a few long spirited drives as the black smoke wouldnt clear immediatley anyway as the engine and exhaust would be full of it 👍
Im in the process of doing this on my 2006 1.6 tdci focus. Ive changed all the seals and put it all back together. But a bit confused on the bleeding of the fuel system. When i unplug the return pipe, which bit do i attach the pump to? And what do i do with the othe end of the pump?
Help please.
Hi would this seal leaking stall the engine when I accelerate
Erm no, not really