I think you actually showed us that boot issue a year or two ago when doing front brakes (rotors, pads, calipers,...) 😂😂😂 like button has been tapped 👍🏻
Good memory. I had a similar repair on the 98 pickup over a year ago (which I hope was the one you recall), but I had a disk drive failure on the laptop and lost the video. So when I noticed this one before Winter set in I took extra care not to lose the recording again. ;-) Finally getting warm enough to cross some of these pending repairs off that I don't like dealing with in the cold weather.
@@DrShock yes, that must be the one I remember 🙂 I’m also happy for the warmer weather to get caught up on my own vehicle repairs. It’s amazing how they pile up over the cold, winter months
Been looking for the swage part numbers, thanks! I need a 36652-1 and can't find it. The aftermarket kits are garbage, they might last 12 months, if you're lucky. Probably need to bring my shafts to a dealer and bend over, I just need the crimp done:)
Could you state how to determine if to replace the boots, or to replace the full half shat? Some new aftermarket shafts are nearly the same price as new boots and the time to replace. Thanks in advance !
First off there's vast differences in quality and fitment between OEM parts and aftermarket (typically asian imports). If the boot is only slightly damaged, or the damage is caught early, I always urge the owner to just replace the boot to retain the higher quality and better fitting OEM axle components. Only if the shaft itself is damaged, or the boot damage has gone many miles without being addressed (and thus letting water and dirt get inside and initiate corrosion and wear on the CV components), would I go towards replacing the actual axle. And then I will search for genuine OEM, or NOS, or even used before going with an inferior aftermarket offering only as a repair of last resort.
I cant justify buying a 300 swage clamp tool just to use it once and only these clamps. You think I can get away with using the gm boot and snap ring and grease just using a different style clamp?
Usually what I've come across is GM used an Oetiker style clamp (aka ear clamps) in the boot kits instead of the swage style used on the assembly line. But for some reason on these GMT400 3/4 ton axle boot kits, they retained the swage style clamp. I'm sure there's some engineering reason for that decision which I'm not aware of, as the additional labor time and tool costs to the dealerships are higher than if GM had just used an Oetiker style clamp. If you are only working on one truck yes it's hard to justify the special service tool cost, but if you do even one additional truck the tool pays for itself vs farming the work out to a shop.
@@DrShockok thanks I ordered everything I need for the replacement hopefully I can do all the work up to the compressing the ring part and just take my whole cv axle to my gm dealer and see if they can compress that swage ring for me.
![Eminem - Temporary (feat. Skylar Grey) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZaK9Wi5ho0o/mqdefault.jpg)
I think you actually showed us that boot issue a year or two ago when doing front brakes (rotors, pads, calipers,...) 😂😂😂 like button has been tapped 👍🏻
Good memory. I had a similar repair on the 98 pickup over a year ago (which I hope was the one you recall), but I had a disk drive failure on the laptop and lost the video. So when I noticed this one before Winter set in I took extra care not to lose the recording again. ;-)
Finally getting warm enough to cross some of these pending repairs off that I don't like dealing with in the cold weather.
@@DrShock yes, that must be the one I remember 🙂 I’m also happy for the warmer weather to get caught up on my own vehicle repairs. It’s amazing how they pile up over the cold, winter months
Thanks for your attention to detail and including the correct torque values at the end.
Excellent job! Very informative and professional. Thank you.
Been looking for the swage part numbers, thanks! I need a 36652-1 and can't find it. The aftermarket kits are garbage, they might last 12 months, if you're lucky. Probably need to bring my shafts to a dealer and bend over, I just need the crimp done:)
Excellent tutorial. Would there be any fundamental difference in a 1994 k2500? Thanks much.
It should be very similar though there were some part design changes that prompted me to cap this at 1997 in the video title.
Could you state how to determine if to replace the boots, or to replace the full half shat?
Some new aftermarket shafts are nearly the same price as new boots and the time to replace.
Thanks in advance !
First off there's vast differences in quality and fitment between OEM parts and aftermarket (typically asian imports). If the boot is only slightly damaged, or the damage is caught early, I always urge the owner to just replace the boot to retain the higher quality and better fitting OEM axle components.
Only if the shaft itself is damaged, or the boot damage has gone many miles without being addressed (and thus letting water and dirt get inside and initiate corrosion and wear on the CV components), would I go towards replacing the actual axle. And then I will search for genuine OEM, or NOS, or even used before going with an inferior aftermarket offering only as a repair of last resort.
Will this part number also work as a replacement for the inner boot?
As best I recall, the kit part number shown in this video is just for the outer boot.
Will I need an alignment?
Not on this particular model of GM trucks for this specific repair procedure.
Are torque values applicable to half ton?
Yeah, should be the same for all 4WD axle half shaft components.
I cant justify buying a 300 swage clamp tool just to use it once and only these clamps. You think I can get away with using the gm boot and snap ring and grease just using a different style clamp?
Usually what I've come across is GM used an Oetiker style clamp (aka ear clamps) in the boot kits instead of the swage style used on the assembly line. But for some reason on these GMT400 3/4 ton axle boot kits, they retained the swage style clamp. I'm sure there's some engineering reason for that decision which I'm not aware of, as the additional labor time and tool costs to the dealerships are higher than if GM had just used an Oetiker style clamp. If you are only working on one truck yes it's hard to justify the special service tool cost, but if you do even one additional truck the tool pays for itself vs farming the work out to a shop.
@@DrShockok thanks I ordered everything I need for the replacement hopefully I can do all the work up to the compressing the ring part and just take my whole cv axle to my gm dealer and see if they can compress that swage ring for me.