I got the gen 3 little bastered on my 6.5 Creedmoor. It was expensive but worth the money. Didn't have to change the zero at all. No recoil. Feel like a 22 caliber
Why shifting point of impact with the plugs, you can do that with your scope adjustments. I would like to see if you can tune it to differences in group sizes
nice review, do you think there is a difference in recoil between the gen 2 and gen 3 with recoil? Not interested is the tuning part so much, If yes, how much more recoil percentage does the gen 3 remove? Thanks...
Hi The Tactical Texan. Very helpful video, thank you kindly for posting it. Just so I understand you correctly, when you said at 13:21 "I was hitting, watching it move", you don't mean that's where the shots were hitting - you mean that's where the scope/rectile moved to - as in that postion? Hope that makes sense mate. Cheers - Stu :)
Correct! I was paying attention to where the reticle moved to due to the recoil. Then adding or removing the port plugs to try and keep it centered on the target
Great video! Why did you go little over fat for a .260? I have a lighter Tikka CTR 20 inch in 6.5 Creed and one seller was recommending me to go with the fat over the little because the rifle was light. What should I go with?
Honestly I've never used the fat so it's hard for me to compare. I have heard from other shooters that the fat does a marginally better job than the little. If it's a super lightweight rifle I say go with the fat for the $30 extra and be safe. My rifles are heavy so the little B has always been good. Hope this helps! Any more questions don't hesitate to ask
What one did you go with? I just ordered the Fat on the recommendation of veteran long range shooter. Mine is going on my 6.5cm RPR and even though I will be upgrading rifles at some point I'll already have a nice brake.
APA recommends the fat for .338 and larger. When asked an APA customer service representative what they recommended for a .308 he said the micro bastard would be plenty. But, because I also have a rifle that is on the lighter side I went with the fat bastard. It works great for a light weight .308 rifle.
I started with the front two tune ports open instead of the back two. My end result is dead center! You might try retuning your break starting in the front. I'm fairly certain you will get the dead center result your looking for.
Did APA have a sight-in procedure they recommended that was different than yours? Trying to understand what this is going to do for me vs an established zero. From the standpoint of hitting where you aim or are dialed for, are you using this as an attempt to keep any barrel movement as close to zero so you can judge each impact better? If it keeps the crosshairs glued to the target through the shot then it makes perfect sense. Where you ended up at, did you just add a click of windage to the right to complete the zero? Thanks for the video.
Sorry if I was unclear. You will use a standard zeroing procedure with the scope. The tunable ports on the muzzle break are to aid you in staying on target through recoil so you can see your hits/misses. And it works incredible for that. I can tell a difference in where the rifle ends up with every port I open/close
Great video, these type of muzzle brakes are new to me and it was a big help having a video on the installation. BTW - are the drones behind you for racing or AP?
It's really not. I'd say if your a right handed shooter take all the plugs out of the right side and half out of the left. Then reverse that advice if your a left handed shooter. Quick and easy 😁
So I came from using an APA gen 2, so the lateral recoil management was the same. But the URP ports helped tune the muzzle rise a ton. In my opinion definitely worth the upgrade to not even come off the target
Not sure im following what your saying. You want to tune to your POA. The closer the rifle ends up to your POA the easier it is to spot your hits/misses. Unless of course im completely misunderstanding you?
I'm gonna decent here and say on a properly setup target rifle there should be no barrel compensation only recoil reduction. If a rifle has a center of gravity and butt pad aligned with the barrel no comp is necessary. Now if you have a lever action rifle my bets are off.
I got the gen 3 little bastered on my 6.5 Creedmoor. It was expensive but worth the money. Didn't have to change the zero at all. No recoil. Feel like a 22 caliber
They recommend "hand tight", because that clear thread lock/lock tight they provide will hold anything lol!
Why shifting point of impact with the plugs, you can do that with your scope adjustments.
I would like to see if you can tune it to differences in group sizes
Hello, I would like to know the distance from the end of the barrel to the first hole of the compensator to obtain the best accuracy. Thank you.
I have a 300 vanguard, but will I have to get the barrel threaded or am I missing something.
nice review, do you think there is a difference in recoil between the gen 2 and gen 3 with recoil? Not interested is the tuning part so much, If yes, how much more recoil percentage does the gen 3 remove? Thanks...
Nice review brother
Hi The Tactical Texan. Very helpful video, thank you kindly for posting it. Just so I understand you correctly, when you said at 13:21 "I was hitting, watching it move", you don't mean that's where the shots were hitting - you mean that's where the scope/rectile moved to - as in that postion? Hope that makes sense mate. Cheers - Stu :)
Correct! I was paying attention to where the reticle moved to due to the recoil. Then adding or removing the port plugs to try and keep it centered on the target
@@thetacticaltexan8102 thanks mate sorry about the late reply. Cheers Stu
Just picked this brake up from opticplanet lastweek for $160. Did you notice any change to point of impact from no brake to putting on this break?
Great video! Why did you go little over fat for a .260? I have a lighter Tikka CTR 20 inch in 6.5 Creed and one seller was recommending me to go with the fat over the little because the rifle was light. What should I go with?
Honestly I've never used the fat so it's hard for me to compare. I have heard from other shooters that the fat does a marginally better job than the little. If it's a super lightweight rifle I say go with the fat for the $30 extra and be safe. My rifles are heavy so the little B has always been good. Hope this helps! Any more questions don't hesitate to ask
What one did you go with? I just ordered the Fat on the recommendation of veteran long range shooter. Mine is going on my 6.5cm RPR and even though I will be upgrading rifles at some point I'll already have a nice brake.
@@dustyrhodes1655 I went with the little. It helps so much on my lighter rifle and will be perfectly at home on my 6mm
APA recommends the fat for .338 and larger. When asked an APA customer service representative what they recommended for a .308 he said the micro bastard would be plenty. But, because I also have a rifle that is on the lighter side I went with the fat bastard. It works great for a light weight .308 rifle.
I started with the front two tune ports open instead of the back two. My end result is dead center! You might try retuning your break starting in the front. I'm fairly certain you will get the dead center result your looking for.
Based off your knowledge and experience, would you recommend this brake for a .300 win mag? The rifle weighs about 7lbs.
Maybe trie the big bastard.
Did APA have a sight-in procedure they recommended that was different than yours? Trying to understand what this is going to do for me vs an established zero. From the standpoint of hitting where you aim or are dialed for, are you using this as an attempt to keep any barrel movement as close to zero so you can judge each impact better? If it keeps the crosshairs glued to the target through the shot then it makes perfect sense. Where you ended up at, did you just add a click of windage to the right to complete the zero? Thanks for the video.
Sorry if I was unclear. You will use a standard zeroing procedure with the scope. The tunable ports on the muzzle break are to aid you in staying on target through recoil so you can see your hits/misses. And it works incredible for that. I can tell a difference in where the rifle ends up with every port I open/close
The Tactical Texan Thanks
Great video, these type of muzzle brakes are new to me and it was a big help having a video on the installation. BTW - are the drones behind you for racing or AP?
I'm glad you enjoyed it! The drones are for racing, I did that for about 4 years but have since sold them to shoot matches full time.
Do you still have the gen 2? Interested in selling it?
How mandatory is the tuning process??
It's really not. I'd say if your a right handed shooter take all the plugs out of the right side and half out of the left. Then reverse that advice if your a left handed shooter. Quick and easy 😁
Great content. Were you able to see impacts better and did it minimize recoil?
So I came from using an APA gen 2, so the lateral recoil management was the same. But the URP ports helped tune the muzzle rise a ton. In my opinion definitely worth the upgrade to not even come off the target
Is that a FOD can on the second shelf????
No, I wish! Lol
Not sure I agree with your tuning procedure. My guess is to tune to the return to point of impact. Tune POI with scope.
Not sure im following what your saying. You want to tune to your POA. The closer the rifle ends up to your POA the easier it is to spot your hits/misses. Unless of course im completely misunderstanding you?
I'm gonna decent here and say on a properly setup target rifle there should be no barrel compensation only recoil reduction. If a rifle has a center of gravity and butt pad aligned with the barrel no comp is necessary. Now if you have a lever action rifle my bets are off.
WHAT !!! Grease your threads Sir.
Tacticam plz or it didnt happen.