Strange, no matter which shellholder in the kit, I cant get the brass sized enough. Used them all and cannot get the desired shoulder setback. However, if I go to the regular same brand shellholders, I can??
Instead of disassembling the bolt to find the max brass length, have you tried partly setting a spent primer in a fired piece of brass then chamber the case and use the bolt to fully seat the primer and measure with a comparator to the seated primer? This has worked well for me and has provided consistent results with no disassembly required.
Thanks Keith, I really look forward to your videos. Always learning from you. I think skipping the details of these steps leads to wasting valuable time and components. You are the Bob Ross of gunpowder and lead!
As a noob, I would like to thank you for actually showing the process to get the bolt ready for your method. I saw another video on finding headspace that didn't mention removing the ejector (probably because their bolt worked differently) and I overworked my brass. I kept resizing and wondering why there was still resistance.
Just like to say , thanks for choosing the 6.5CM . In today’s world it has been sort of forgotten and passed over , but it such a versatile and accurate round . 👍
But they don’t compensate the springy reloading press. Redding competition shellholders are therefore the better solution. Just adjust that there appears no light between die and shellholder, when sizing a case.
@@winninginthewindgive SAC dies a try. You can use any combination of neck bushing and expander mandrel. The time savings and quality are worth the $$$ in my opinion.
Which load development technique do you use?? OCW or ladder?? And do you start load developement only after fireforming new cases?? Thanks for the content! Its the most informative oit there
Using the dry media cleaner can leave a clog in the primer pocket and flash hole. Have you any feeling for using the wet SS pins cleaner. Great job live you videos. Dan Martin.
Most people are going away from SS pins for a couple reasons. 1. It can dent and roll the case mouths if tumbled for too long. 2. It removes too much carbon from the case neck causing rough and inconsistent bullet seating. This can be fixed only by using dry neck lube before seating or throwing them in the tumbler for 30 minutes
Can you help me better understand your process for choosing your bushing size and mandrel size? I watched a couple videos from Primal Rights. I believe, for a .003 of “neck tension” (so a mandrel of .261) he says to go to select a bushing that is .006 smaller than your loaded diameter. So, doing the math: (.261-(.014*2))-.006=.283 Just trying to figure it out and have been confused on the disparity between your bushing size and his!
I’ve got a 6GT I’ve been using for midrange fclass. I’ve been strictly using a bushing sizer(size recommended by GAP). I’m wondering if I’ll get a little more consistent ES/SD if I go a size down and then mandrel for neck tension.
Most precision shooters don’t wet tumble because it can damage the case mouth. Even if the case mouth isn’t damaged you are still removing the carbon from the case mouth which acts as a lubricant when seating bullets….
@@bawhitham23 Thanks ... but not 100% on-board with that. I've seen case mouths damaged if you use steel pins, but I don't, and have thousands through my wet tumbler without ever seeing any damage. Also, I lube the case mouth with NeoLube #2 before running my mandrel and seating, as I'd much rather use that for lubrication than consciously leaving residual carbon build-up from prior firing. To each his own ... but that's how I roll.
Wet tumbling is great. It doesn't damage the case mouth if you don't overload the tumbler and keep the tumbling time down. I started doing it to remove the oxide layer left on the brass from flame annealing. However, you will then need to lubricate the necks(I use one I make with 99% ISO and graphite powder) or you will lose accuracy potential. The powder residue inside a case which is not wet tumbled normally takes this role. It definitely makes a difference. I saw group size increases of nearly 20% with squeaky clean necks in one of my benchrest guns.
How'd you choose your aztec case..? I appreciate your headspace approach.. In past I check all fire formed brass...there is usually up to 3 thou variance..I put the longest cases to the side and gently feel for resistance on bolt close...this case gives me the maximum measurement...and aim to size a thou shorter... No problems yet.. Lee neck collet I like...can't afford redding dies anyway. Redding body die for when headspace is too big...which is rare...so far.. Love your work Keith... Thanks for sharing.. After trimming and chamfering. 600 cases recently..the Girard trimmer looks like heaven....does I have a VLD option though?
I have noticed in some of your videos where you're shooting you have a small magnifier on your scope so you can see the turret I would like to have information on that because I'm not getting any younger thanks .Bob
I just do it the way I do it. Some people say trimming can change the case mouth slightly. Expanding afterward might help. For me it's just a ritual to do it in the order I do.
You need to look at the induction anealers from south africa with the glow sensors(arc anealer), no need to sacrifice cases, and waaaaay cheaper... oh, and come with an auto feeder
I've never had a problem in over a dozen rifles just taking a shoulder measurement off fired brass using a comparator and then sizing to reduce that measurement by 0.001" or 0.002" depending on the application. Given that you're using your comparator to "save" your measurement and test all future brass this seems unnecessarily complicated.
I agree if I set the die up and I'm between. 001 and .003 and it chambers I'm good if I want it to work in any gun then I bump .004 or .005 I've seen other guys do it his way but they were all geeks with pocket protectors and lived and died by how small there groups are. Buy the way I have one of them geeks in the family you could by all my reloading stuff for what just there scale cost nuts.
Secret between friends: you can easily reform 6.0CM fed GMM brass to 6.5 with graphite and patience with remarkable consistency and be able to use small primers. Identical dimensions but for neck diameter. Small primers CAN be a lot more consistent; when you think about the size of the cup and the process of manufacture that should probably be fairly self evident. And they’re roundly more abundant! S&B’s process of manufacture for large was apparently superior vs our domestic options for consistency (their large had amazingly linear response vs powder mass at johnny’s reloading bench; might’ve been bolt action reloading) but must’ve been more dangerous... bah. I wonder what that process is. Must’ve been equivalent to our domestic benchrest process.
Well if we can buy this ammunition at Walmart… Clearly this guy has no idea what he’s talking about. You have to shoot an EXOTIC caliber to know what you’re talking about.
I sure appreciate your content sir. Just absolute top of the bill material. PrestonJMoore has an excellent channel if you don’t know about it. You two should be running mates and save this country.
Of course you put this video out a few days after I swore i wasn't going to take my bolt apart again. Time for another 8 hour adventure!
Sometimes..putting that pin back in... without proper tools and only 2 hands...can be a bit trying...ha.
I love the Redding competition shell holders!
Strange, no matter which shellholder in the kit, I cant get the brass sized enough. Used them all and cannot get the desired shoulder setback. However, if I go to the regular same brand shellholders, I can??
I always look forward to Winning in the Wind videos. Excellent informative and instructional videos by Keith. Cheers 🍻 🍻
Instead of disassembling the bolt to find the max brass length, have you tried partly setting a spent primer in a fired piece of brass then chamber the case and use the bolt to fully seat the primer and measure with a comparator to the seated primer?
This has worked well for me and has provided consistent results with no disassembly required.
Interesting indeed! Clever.
Thanks Keith, I really look forward to your videos. Always learning from you. I think skipping the details of these steps leads to wasting valuable time and components. You are the Bob Ross of gunpowder and lead!
I got distracted for a moment by the Wolf Primers, oh we miss those primers. Awesome quick detailed tutorial.
As a noob, I would like to thank you for actually showing the process to get the bolt ready for your method. I saw another video on finding headspace that didn't mention removing the ejector (probably because their bolt worked differently) and I overworked my brass. I kept resizing and wondering why there was still resistance.
Just like to say , thanks for choosing the 6.5CM .
In today’s world it has been sort of forgotten and passed over , but it such a versatile and accurate round .
👍
Agreed💯 all these 6mm cartridges are so overwhelming
These videos are very helpful. Sharing your experienced methods is much appreciated.
Thank you.🙏 Awesome content.
Great information thanks! Subbed
Sweet! I love the tape idea.
You might try the Whidden click lock die ring. They are .001 adjustable and make dialing in the case trim length a piece of cake.
But they don’t compensate the springy reloading press. Redding competition shellholders are therefore the better solution. Just adjust that there appears no light between die and shellholder, when sizing a case.
@@ralfrude3532 I’m talking about using them on the trimmer die. Not the press.
Great info. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
Old School RC-ii are a lot better than anything RCBS offers today!
Is there an expander ball in that sizer or has it been removed?
Thanks for the video!
No expander in that one. Honestly, I would rather be able to do the entirety of sizing in a single pass.
@@winninginthewindgive SAC dies a try. You can use any combination of neck bushing and expander mandrel. The time savings and quality are worth the $$$ in my opinion.
Which load development technique do you use?? OCW or ladder?? And do you start load developement only after fireforming new cases?? Thanks for the content! Its the most informative oit there
Using the dry media cleaner can leave a clog in the primer pocket and flash hole. Have you any feeling for using the wet SS pins cleaner.
Great job live you videos.
Dan Martin.
Most people are going away from SS pins for a couple reasons. 1. It can dent and roll the case mouths if tumbled for too long. 2. It removes too much carbon from the case neck causing rough and inconsistent bullet seating. This can be fixed only by using dry neck lube before seating or throwing them in the tumbler for 30 minutes
Does or did you mandrel ever bell or put a lip on the mouth of the case?
Can you help me better understand your process for choosing your bushing size and mandrel size? I watched a couple videos from Primal Rights. I believe, for a .003 of “neck tension” (so a mandrel of .261) he says to go to select a bushing that is .006 smaller than your loaded diameter. So, doing the math:
(.261-(.014*2))-.006=.283
Just trying to figure it out and have been confused on the disparity between your bushing size and his!
I’ve got a 6GT I’ve been using for midrange fclass. I’ve been strictly using a bushing sizer(size recommended by GAP). I’m wondering if I’ll get a little more consistent ES/SD if I go a size down and then mandrel for neck tension.
As with any technique, your mileage may vary. The big question you might want to answer first is how consistent are the seating forces now?
Great video ... agree with all except the corncob media vibrator. Web-tumbling is much neater and does a better job (IMHO).
This is going to sound weird, but wet tumbling is too good.
Most precision shooters don’t wet tumble because it can damage the case mouth. Even if the case mouth isn’t damaged you are still removing the carbon from the case mouth which acts as a lubricant when seating bullets….
@@bawhitham23 Thanks ... but not 100% on-board with that. I've seen case mouths damaged if you use steel pins, but I don't, and have thousands through my wet tumbler without ever seeing any damage. Also, I lube the case mouth with NeoLube #2 before running my mandrel and seating, as I'd much rather use that for lubrication than consciously leaving residual carbon build-up from prior firing. To each his own ... but that's how I roll.
Wet tumbling is great. It doesn't damage the case mouth if you don't overload the tumbler and keep the tumbling time down. I started doing it to remove the oxide layer left on the brass from flame annealing. However, you will then need to lubricate the necks(I use one I make with 99% ISO and graphite powder) or you will lose accuracy potential. The powder residue inside a case which is not wet tumbled normally takes this role. It definitely makes a difference. I saw group size increases of nearly 20% with squeaky clean necks in one of my benchrest guns.
How'd you choose your aztec case..?
I appreciate your headspace approach..
In past I check all fire formed brass...there is usually up to 3 thou variance..I put the longest cases to the side and gently feel for resistance on bolt close...this case gives me the maximum measurement...and aim to size a thou shorter...
No problems yet..
Lee neck collet I like...can't afford redding dies anyway.
Redding body die for when headspace is too big...which is rare...so far..
Love your work Keith...
Thanks for sharing..
After trimming and chamfering. 600 cases recently..the Girard trimmer looks like heaven....does I have a VLD option though?
The inside chamfer angle is pretty shallow like a VLD inside chamfer tool.
@@winninginthewind thank you Keith..I like my KM VLD inner chamfer tool...
Like many things...not sure the dif it makes...but like VLD chamfer idea...
Are you using pin gage to check case mouth I.D. ? If so, how many thousandths under projectile size do you like to go? Thanks for the videos!
Not on these. I do that for my F-class rifles, but not for the PRS stuff. I don't have appropriate pins for .2600-.2635
I have noticed in some of your videos where you're shooting you have a small magnifier on your scope so you can see the turret I would like to have information on that because I'm not getting any younger thanks .Bob
I'm trying a different manufacturer right now. There are a few offerings out there. Give the internet a search for turret magnifier.
What’s the compitition shell holder ??
Redding product. See their online catalog..
Why is the firing pin removed ?
The ejector is removed because it pushes on the base. Leaving it in would keep you from measuring the correct dimension.
So would you advise to trim after sizing and before expanding instead of after sizing and expanding? Does it matter?
I just do it the way I do it. Some people say trimming can change the case mouth slightly. Expanding afterward might help. For me it's just a ritual to do it in the order I do.
Aztec Sacrifice……….🤣 well played !
You need to look at the induction anealers from south africa with the glow sensors(arc anealer), no need to sacrifice cases, and waaaaay cheaper... oh, and come with an auto feeder
I'd be interested in checking these out. Can you post a link?
👍👍🤝🤝
Real Riflemen let the 308 do their talking. With a new sleeve of Unis/Ginex primers for 499.99 plus shipping plus hazmat plus applicable taxes.
If you Aztech your brass after 3,5,7 firings you should get different codes. Will sacrificing 5 cases give you the same code? Do it for science.
I've never had a problem in over a dozen rifles just taking a shoulder measurement off fired brass using a comparator and then sizing to reduce that measurement by 0.001" or 0.002" depending on the application. Given that you're using your comparator to "save" your measurement and test all future brass this seems unnecessarily complicated.
I agree if I set the die up and I'm between. 001 and .003 and it chambers I'm good if I want it to work in any gun then I bump .004 or .005 I've seen other guys do it his way but they were all geeks with pocket protectors and lived and died by how small there groups are. Buy the way I have one of them geeks in the family you could by all my reloading stuff for what just there scale cost nuts.
*299 cases... sans Aztec.
You got me! Actually, it was 298 because I lost one on the ground during fireforming at a match.
Those hurt. I sweat more about the crumbs I lose than the morsels I eat. Sacrifices should be canonized.
Secret between friends: you can easily reform 6.0CM fed GMM brass to 6.5 with graphite and patience with remarkable consistency and be able to use small primers. Identical dimensions but for neck diameter. Small primers CAN be a lot more consistent; when you think about the size of the cup and the process of manufacture that should probably be fairly self evident. And they’re roundly more abundant! S&B’s process of manufacture for large was apparently superior vs our domestic options for consistency (their large had amazingly linear response vs powder mass at johnny’s reloading bench; might’ve been bolt action reloading) but must’ve been more dangerous... bah. I wonder what that process is. Must’ve been equivalent to our domestic benchrest process.
Well if we can buy this ammunition at Walmart… Clearly this guy has no idea what he’s talking about. You have to shoot an EXOTIC caliber to know what you’re talking about.
🤦🏻♂️
I saw a guy say he was going to unsubscribe the other day after the heretical conversion to 6.5...
I know what he's talking about. Thanks to him 👍
🤣
I sure appreciate your content sir. Just absolute top of the bill material. PrestonJMoore has an excellent channel if you don’t know about it. You two should be running mates and save this country.