The 360 camera was pretty cool! I felt like you could tell the story you wanted to and show us what was needed. I hope editing it isn't too much trouble.
They have a app to edit the video. It’s not hard to do. I use that first then output a file from there into premier. But I think they also have a premier add on to do it directly in premier.
Always a pleasure watching you work Pete! This setup reminds me of a shaft straitening fixture I designed and built many years ago. I was using it to straighten shafts that had been thrown into the scrap iron. Boss was pleased because it saved him a lot of money. When I quit that job, I left it there. Wish I had got some compensation for it but I guess I did get paid while I was building it...
I didn't know you had an accident I havnt been on for a while I've been battling cancer,I hope you are ok brother I can see you'd arm looks like it's troubling you,I hope you feel better soon my friend
The heat necessary to do that would change the certification of the material. That couldn’t be done without retesting the materials mechanical properties.
The only bad thing about this is that it will only typically bend in one spot, so that ends up making your half tube's out of round. Not sure how important that is for where it's going.
That's why I hate jobs like these. You go off of the tolerances they set but you don't know what goes in it or if they thought about how you would achieve such tolerances
@@LongJ0hn That goes for a lot of things. lol.. I built custom homes and metal buildings for over a decade with my own crew.. and it's super often that the engineer and architect would have flaws in the drawings and only allow for certain size rafters or joists, for example-- and I'd have to tell the home owner that we can't build it how they have drawn.. Or a floor not being thick enough to run the air ducts like they want/ or a common one is for the stairs. They almost never allow enough space for the stairs to work correctly-- and there are strict codes for how wide and how tall the steps have to be, etc.... Or that the larger lumber required for the span over a room or roof is going to look different than what is drawn- and I'd have to make sure the home owner understands the differences before I build it; because the last thing you want is to surprise them with a difference. People are so very picky about every little detail, so you always have to tell them up front about these things, to set expectations. Or often they would have windows in a certain spot on the "elevation drawings, where you can see the side of the building.. But then on the actual floor plan, it would be in a completely different place- because they moved it to line up with a sink or centerline of a cabinet on the inside, rather than center of the wall outside.. etc. etc... Dozens and dozens of prints and I NEVER remember seeing one without flaws; They always had flaws that I would have to overcome and be the problem solver, when no one has any answers. It gets annoying sometimes.
The heat required would change the certification of the material. People don’t seem to understand. You can’t just start heating material without retesting it’s mechanical properties.
@@EdgePrecision Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. Makes perfect sense. I just assumed the cutting process had already introduced heat in the parts. You’re a very talented individual. Thanks again for sharing.
I always appreciate the considered discourse in the comments. I too wondered how torching it may have introduced heat into the part. I guess the plasma torch doesn't have the effect of heat soaking the part enough to effect it? I imagine the area immediately adjacent to the cut is certainly affected, but will be machined off. Pete, do you take any precautions to make sure you don't overheat a part while cutting it?
@@93Martin No the plasma torch doesn’t even get the part hot. I can pick it up right after cutting it. When I mill the track in the part. There is only about 1/16” of material left to cut thru. It cuts as fast as I can move the torch. Hardly any heat gets into the part. Also there is still about 1/4” of material to get machined away.
Do you have a vice setup that you mount in the Integrex for milling jobs? I'm about to set something up that can go between my 4th axis mills and my grex.
@@EdgePrecision ahhh yep. I see. I'll be going for something a little more modular and easy to whip in and out than that with some sort of zero point fixturing (still trying to decide on a brand to go with)
@@EdgePrecision pretty cool. I saw it pop up while I was holding.035 in a 4 inch dia because my saw guy forgot how to read a tape measure. I going to try it. I run a Mori sl 2500 and always looking for new ideas and your videos give me plenty ty
Peter, if you all happen out to SoCal (LA) area you might want to visit with Jay (Pierson Workholding) as he is considering Buying a building instead of renting. It would be very neat for you and him to conference with your vast experience in owning/running a big shop.
Lets see how Jody does (welding tips and tricks) running the 5-axis Mazak... Your welding was fine, and I assume the filled in hole was a "change in plan".
I was in an accident in my truck. A person ran a red light and hit me on the passenger side of the truck. That spun me around in a circle. At the moment of impact I was shifting gears. So I had hold of the stick shift. When I spun around so quickly I must have grabbed on to the shift stick so hard that I ruptured my bicep muscle and tore some ligaments in my right shoulder.
Milling cutter for centering? The only place I use'd a milling cutter on this fixture was to mill the hole for the shank, that fits into the ram of the press. Does that answer your question?
I guess once you figure out how much deflection there is you could make a stop to press down to. Different batches of material will probably act differently so that might not work.
That could work. I would just have to be careful at the ends. as I said in the video its possible to kink the part where it turns back to tubular shape.
I'm surprised you didn't have the dial indicator read off the top of the part, instead of the upper jaw, so it could not only measure the amount of squeeze, but show the tube diameter when released.
@@calholli No, I was thinking of a setup where the indicator stays in the same position much like Peter has it, but the contact arm is free to touch the top of the tube instead of the top jaw. Lots of ways to make that happen. I guess it all depends on how many parts you have to do and the repeatability of the corrections required.
@@RambozoClown But it's literally the exact same. The jaw is directly touching the tube. So he's still measuring the same thing-- all he has to do is rest the jaw directly on the tube, and he could see how much it had moved and stayed.
@@calholli I totally get what you're saying but the repeatability of the jaw touching the tube is lost because the press/jaw is static (prob not the correct term). You want the indicator to 'indicate' immediately when it touches the tube. It does that because it's spring loaded. You don't get that feedback using the jaw. Using the jaw, you're just guessing when it touches the tube. I hope all that made sense.
Yes this is the third time I have done this job. Before my truck accident I straightened them with the vise. But now I can’t do that without the possibility of re injuring my right arm. So I think it’s worth the time.
Audio is a bit odd, are you trying to do something clever with 2 mics to reduce background noise like polarity flipping onr? It's kind of distracting once you notice it. Give NVIDA RTX voice a go if possible.
It is very noisy in the shop. I have to put a lot of denoise filter on the sound. It makes it sound strange. But without it it really sounds bad. The 360 X3 camera records sound in stereo. I the Rode Go mic puts each mic on a separate channel so using the two mics gets both right and left channels. There may be a setting for mono. But so far I haven’t figured it out.
@@EdgePrecision yeah your voice goes a bit robot at points. Cutting a little 200hz (boomy) and 800Hz (honky / naisely) would help and seems to be where slot of the artifacts are and is not important for inteligibility ( 1-4khz). Highly recommend checking out RTX voice ai noise reduction too though, very impressive reduction with not too many unwanted artifacts. A decent headset microphone would also help a lot, I guess you can plug an external mix into Rode wireless Mics ?
@@tedsaylor6016 if that works it may be a bit better than the rode lapels as I guess airpods have a bit of beam forming going on with there mics,. Though generally the closer you can get the mic to the facehole the better.
@@bassplaya69er If it does pair with airpods, I'd buy a decent truckers headset with the boom mic and pair that. But there is no guarantees it will work at all.
I hope your arm recovers completely and quickly Peter. Take care of yourself.
The 360 camera was pretty cool! I felt like you could tell the story you wanted to and show us what was needed. I hope editing it isn't too much trouble.
They have a app to edit the video. It’s not hard to do. I use that first then output a file from there into premier. But I think they also have a premier add on to do it directly in premier.
@@EdgePrecision you could work for google now
Always a pleasure watching you work Pete! This setup reminds me of a shaft straitening fixture I designed and built many years ago. I was using it to straighten shafts that had been thrown into the scrap iron. Boss was pleased because it saved him a lot of money. When I quit that job, I left it there. Wish I had got some compensation for it but I guess I did get paid while I was building it...
Love the camera work Pete, and the context is all ways the best off the best.
Always looking forward to your posts, and you never let us down.
A lot of finesse in straightening those parts.
Your videos have such interesting parts and content.
Buen trabajo maestro 👍
You're a clever guy
Good camera angles have good day.
360 camera is so good thx
good video peter
Good content thank you
Muito bom !
If you made the video private can you send me the link. I always love the complex projects you make.
I weld some sleeves like those but they are made from 304.
They do also make these type of parts out of stainless steel. Some of them they actually drill and hone out of solid round bar to make the tubing!
I didn't know you had an accident I havnt been on for a while I've been battling cancer,I hope you are ok brother I can see you'd arm looks like it's troubling you,I hope you feel better soon my friend
Would some heat on the tube help the process, or just an unnecessary step?
The heat necessary to do that would change the certification of the material. That couldn’t be done without retesting the materials mechanical properties.
The only bad thing about this is that it will only typically bend in one spot, so that ends up making your half tube's out of round. Not sure how important that is for where it's going.
That's why I hate jobs like these. You go off of the tolerances they set but you don't know what goes in it or if they thought about how you would achieve such tolerances
@@LongJ0hn That goes for a lot of things. lol.. I built custom homes and metal buildings for over a decade with my own crew.. and it's super often that the engineer and architect would have flaws in the drawings and only allow for certain size rafters or joists, for example-- and I'd have to tell the home owner that we can't build it how they have drawn.. Or a floor not being thick enough to run the air ducts like they want/ or a common one is for the stairs. They almost never allow enough space for the stairs to work correctly-- and there are strict codes for how wide and how tall the steps have to be, etc.... Or that the larger lumber required for the span over a room or roof is going to look different than what is drawn- and I'd have to make sure the home owner understands the differences before I build it; because the last thing you want is to surprise them with a difference. People are so very picky about every little detail, so you always have to tell them up front about these things, to set expectations. Or often they would have windows in a certain spot on the "elevation drawings, where you can see the side of the building.. But then on the actual floor plan, it would be in a completely different place- because they moved it to line up with a sink or centerline of a cabinet on the inside, rather than center of the wall outside.. etc. etc... Dozens and dozens of prints and I NEVER remember seeing one without flaws; They always had flaws that I would have to overcome and be the problem solver, when no one has any answers. It gets annoying sometimes.
Thanks for sharing, hope your arm feels better soon. Wondered if you introduced some heat while holding the press at the desired radius?
The heat required would change the certification of the material. People don’t seem to understand. You can’t just start heating material without retesting it’s mechanical properties.
@@EdgePrecision Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. Makes perfect sense. I just assumed the cutting process had already introduced heat in the parts. You’re a very talented individual. Thanks again for sharing.
I always appreciate the considered discourse in the comments. I too wondered how torching it may have introduced heat into the part. I guess the plasma torch doesn't have the effect of heat soaking the part enough to effect it? I imagine the area immediately adjacent to the cut is certainly affected, but will be machined off. Pete, do you take any precautions to make sure you don't overheat a part while cutting it?
@@93Martin No the plasma torch doesn’t even get the part hot. I can pick it up right after cutting it. When I mill the track in the part. There is only about 1/16” of material left to cut thru. It cuts as fast as I can move the torch. Hardly any heat gets into the part. Also there is still about 1/4” of material to get machined away.
@@EdgePrecision Cool!
Do you have a vice setup that you mount in the Integrex for milling jobs? I'm about to set something up that can go between my 4th axis mills and my grex.
Look at my video called Special Groove Gauge. You will see the one I have in that video.
@@EdgePrecision ahhh yep. I see. I'll be going for something a little more modular and easy to whip in and out than that with some sort of zero point fixturing (still trying to decide on a brand to go with)
ruclips.net/video/Xorv9zJ5tgo/видео.html for anyone looking
How did you get the 3 hard jaws to hold the flat stock? Did you mill the bottom jaws?
You can see at 8:49 in the video that the plate catches the step on the bottom 2 jaws.
Just the standard jaws. This is light machining so it’s OK. But this isn’t a way I’d run a real job.
@@EdgePrecision pretty cool. I saw it pop up while I was holding.035 in a 4 inch dia because my saw guy forgot how to read a tape measure. I going to try it. I run a Mori sl 2500 and always looking for new ideas and your videos give me plenty ty
@@agie170hss2 I went back and caught it. I figured at first he had some jaws notched for holding rectangles.
Peter, if you all happen out to SoCal (LA) area you might want to visit with Jay (Pierson Workholding) as he is considering Buying a building instead of renting. It would be very neat for you and him to conference with your vast experience in owning/running a big shop.
Never seen peck tapping before.
Maybe a impact driver help with the vise
I did think about that. But I was worried about being able to control the amount of squeeze with that.
Also hard on the thrust bearing on the vise screw
Lets see how Jody does (welding tips and tricks) running the 5-axis Mazak...
Your welding was fine, and I assume the filled in hole was a "change in plan".
No I always planned to fill the hole in.
how did you hurt your arm?
I was in an accident in my truck. A person ran a red light and hit me on the passenger side of the truck. That spun me around in a circle. At the moment of impact I was shifting gears. So I had hold of the stick shift. When I spun around so quickly I must have grabbed on to the shift stick so hard that I ruptured my bicep muscle and tore some ligaments in my right shoulder.
What is the milling cutter for centering? With what plates?
Milling cutter for centering? The only place I use'd a milling cutter on this fixture was to mill the hole for the shank, that fits into the ram of the press. Does that answer your question?
@@EdgePrecision 10:32
@@martin32238 it’s a spot drill.
Are these the super duplex parts from a few years ago?
No there steel tubing.
@@EdgePrecision Do you know what grade?
@@purerhodium Nice try competing industry
So as long as your mechanizing this step, maybe make 24" long jaws for fewer steps? Another cool vid tho... thx
I guess once you figure out how much deflection there is you could make a stop to press down to. Different batches of material will probably act differently so that might not work.
That could work. I would just have to be careful at the ends. as I said in the video its possible to kink the part where it turns back to tubular shape.
@@EdgePrecision perhaps a plug could help
Столько инструменты только работать надо.
I'm surprised you didn't have the dial indicator read off the top of the part, instead of the upper jaw, so it could not only measure the amount of squeeze, but show the tube diameter when released.
I was trying to keep things as simple as possible.
Then you have to move your indicator every time. It's inefficient
@@calholli No, I was thinking of a setup where the indicator stays in the same position much like Peter has it, but the contact arm is free to touch the top of the tube instead of the top jaw. Lots of ways to make that happen. I guess it all depends on how many parts you have to do and the repeatability of the corrections required.
@@RambozoClown But it's literally the exact same. The jaw is directly touching the tube. So he's still measuring the same thing-- all he has to do is rest the jaw directly on the tube, and he could see how much it had moved and stayed.
@@calholli I totally get what you're saying but the repeatability of the jaw touching the tube is lost because the press/jaw is static (prob not the correct term).
You want the indicator to 'indicate' immediately when it touches the tube. It does that because it's spring loaded.
You don't get that feedback using the jaw. Using the jaw, you're just guessing when it touches the tube.
I hope all that made sense.
Is this D. O. M. Tube?
I’m not sure. It is seamless. But it has a lot of stress in it. When I plasma cut it. I can see and hear the stress relieved as it’s cut.
@@EdgePrecision ok, should be dom tube if there is no seam. Maybe you can send the tube to stress relief before cutting, might help.
Pete, whose fault was the accident? Just curious.
The other driver ran a red light and hit my truck on the passenger side.
Is this something you plan for when you quote a job? Seems like just this straightening the pipe is fairly labor intensive.
Yes this is the third time I have done this job. Before my truck accident I straightened them with the vise. But now I can’t do that without the possibility of re injuring my right arm. So I think it’s worth the time.
Audio is a bit odd, are you trying to do something clever with 2 mics to reduce background noise like polarity flipping onr? It's kind of distracting once you notice it.
Give NVIDA RTX voice a go if possible.
It is very noisy in the shop. I have to put a lot of denoise filter on the sound. It makes it sound strange. But without it it really sounds bad. The 360 X3 camera records sound in stereo. I the Rode Go mic puts each mic on a separate channel so using the two mics gets both right and left channels. There may be a setting for mono. But so far I haven’t figured it out.
@@EdgePrecision yeah your voice goes a bit robot at points. Cutting a little 200hz (boomy) and 800Hz (honky / naisely) would help and seems to be where slot of the artifacts are and is not important for inteligibility ( 1-4khz). Highly recommend checking out RTX voice ai noise reduction too though, very impressive reduction with not too many unwanted artifacts.
A decent headset microphone would also help a lot, I guess you can plug an external mix into Rode wireless Mics ?
@@bassplaya69er There is rumor that the Insta 360's will pair with bluetooth devices (apple airpods for instance), may want to give that a try.
@@tedsaylor6016 if that works it may be a bit better than the rode lapels as I guess airpods have a bit of beam forming going on with there mics,. Though generally the closer you can get the mic to the facehole the better.
@@bassplaya69er If it does pair with airpods, I'd buy a decent truckers headset with the boom mic and pair that. But there is no guarantees it will work at all.
Bam... I'm 1st !
You're not.. I've seen this comment before; in other videos.