Another great video, thank you! Your lovely CAT1 is right - take HV measurements at mA range but please be careful(!). Also, I love your hand-drawn schematics, you've got a damn talent. All the best and greetings from Poland.
The first one of these I had I was checking 240 Volt AC and had the dial 180 degrees wrong way at the ohms setting by mistake. There was a big flash, a loud bang and a new pair of underpants required. But started my intrest in multimeters.
Recently, DT-830B I purchased came with battery($5). However, the socket for hFE measurement had all pins were omitted. After transplanting the pins of IC socket, I was able to measure hFE normally.
Harbor Freight gives these meters away with a coupon found in the newspaper. I got a few and gave one to my friend's kid. Showed him what happens when you touch the leads and how to get it to show 'numbers' when touched to a battery. These are good meters for toddlers. I love watching your videos before going to sleep. There's something about your cadence and tone that I find relaxing. Keep going.
You can actually overclock these little meters because it uses an RC oscillator, which you can change to change the clock. This way you can get a much higher refresh rate on the LCD, the accuracy does go down a bit.
There are a ton of those. I bought 2 D03047 for 5$ on a big distributor (Farnell). It also includes a continuity beeper (most important thing, works well enough), comes with 2 fused inputs and has even a rubber protection cover. I use them for my MCU projects to measure mostly voltage and they are very light and small so they don't bother me too much. If you need something to quickly check something on a normal max 12V circuit no issue and good value. For good measurement I use the EEV blog Multimeter of course, but I never had any missreadings with them either.
Exactly. Don't knock these el cheapo meters as it works great for checking batteries and continuity which is pretty much all you need for home repairs.
I got one of these a year ago and I was surprised how accurate it was, especially when compared to much more expensive meters. But I don't expect it to be very durable.
Accuracy is cheap to make those days. But it's not cheap to make it safe and reliable. Fuses, MOV's, PTC's and high voltage resistors are now more expensive than chips :).
We all know, it will not survive this test. But it is OK to check batteries or even check the 230V mains voltage in the home. Of course not in current mode.
No protection fuses/zener diodes... but then again that's all you're gonna get for $3usd. At least they could have included a $0.10 varistor on the input to ground for protection... and let's not even talk about the inadequate current sensing resistors and voltage dividers... it's like having sex without a condom protection... baahaha!
Maybe you didnt knew, but there are powercords with switches so you could plug the probes in, and then switch the power on(or do it like me, using a single outlet with a breaker attachd to it)
Historically several factories have been churning versions of this out for at least 30 years; internally they can be significantly different from each other. It's likely that in the territory where they're made no-one knows or cares who holds the original patents and copyright for it. This example has a much smaller PCB than mine, and of course SMD resistors. One consistent factor is that the test leads are utter crap. When a fuse IS fitted they tend to be glass, which can be swapped out for a ceramic sand filled one if you can get the correct size and rating. No-one can pretend that they are 'safe' when measuring high voltages.
The best DT830B variants are those from the 90's. They use all through hole parts and everything is just better. Not necessarily prettier to the untrained eye but still much better quality. I don't know about the UNI-T brand which also has a DT830B in the menu and it's a little different in the transistor connections. But otherwise probably the best DT830B you can get is the DIY/kit version. That has large through hole resistors, fuse and large 10A resistor too - not too far away from your older version. The downside though is you have to calibrate it yourself so investing in a good voltage is recommended. They're not too expensive though and may come in handy for other things too - so no need to invest in an expensive lab multimeter in order to calibrate it more than good enought for any use you'd sanely use a DT830B for.
The metal strips from the probe connectors are the fuses. They work like the battery fuse in your tesla. The metal strip is designed to melt at a specified current, and this way you don't need a fuse. Look at the left metal strip where it meets the board. It has a notch in it where it will melt.
The worst thing you can do in electronics is to use test equipment that may not be reliable. I once had a somewhat better but still cheap multimeter. Testing a circuit with it was giving me readings I did not believe so I got out my better quality meter and confirmed it was wrong. Turned out the 9 volt battery was nearly dead but the meter had no low battery warning indicator. Cheap equipment can cause a lot of frustration as well as danger.
Question for you? When measuring the US Robotics 9v/1A power adapter you said you were measuring "AC voltages", and it was'nt good at them.. But wasn't that 9V DC? Or do you mean, measuring DC voltage that's been converted from AC? Thanks.
Have the dt830b a friend gave me. I soldered a plug to put a rechargeable NiCd battery that i glued to the back. Btw mine has a fuse! Its really barebones but for now i can live with it
My DMT-7, which is basically the same as these two meters, is fused. These meters are perfectly good for low energy applications such as breadboard electronics, but you need a higher end meter for house work or industrial applications.
They work fine for DC circuit testing and can do AC voltage test fine too even if it's not safe. But like most people I only check batteries and fuse so voltage and continuity is all you need for basic home repairs. They're great but $20 more you can get a much better quality. I'm amazing how cheap they can make these.
I like the shunt touching the battery wires inside 🙂 Those death traps make me happy already. There are many DMM on the makret that do not meet any saftey standards.
I bought two of those, around $6 each, battery and probes included, from local shop. Same price, same looks, same shop, one actually have fuse inside! And the other one don't have a place on board for it. Don't remember having problems with rotary switch, but that's because they're sold by local re-seller, and probably passed some at least very basic QA.But probes were complete garbage. Wires are held in place by their own copper only, and thus they fall apart in a few hours of use. Soldered alligator clips on them in place of probes, and bought some better-looking ones for $4.Good thing about them is that their price allows to go wild and learn more about measurements by altering them for your own needs. As of accuracy, well, at least they are consistent with each other. Also, pcb says "5A' on the 10A input, he-he.
I'vr bought this multimeter several times and in several occasions. I find it cheap & useful for most "normal" applications. I have the DT-830D with the "CAT1" marked on it, and have struggled alot to add a buzzer for the "short finder", which I know someone did on YT but my version won't accomodate it for unknown reasons, Do you have any idea? I use it in my "emergency bag" just for emergency.
Exclamating every end of each sentance like that !!!! I dont know if i find this hilarous or I should take you seriously and listen or Just cryyy from suffering xD
I have a similar multimeter - that is used only for batteries - I never notice until today how simple is the circuit and looking this video it just put a smile on my face - how this is cheap lol - I need to say, at least mine has a fuse of 250 ma :p - great video as always !
This exact type of meter has been made almost identically for decades, it literally looks the same as my first meter I got in 2001, only that the circuit board on this one is smaller, crappier and simplified to the bone. The warnings on the back about the fuse are probably there because they use the same exact injection mold for the casings for all variants of the meter. They are OK as basic meters, their weakest point actually being the crappy leads.
I am using that multimeter for almost a year, its usuable. When I got it battery cable solder was broken and I had to resolder it. Switch is so bad sometimes it wont work But its usuable as I say. I use it when I dont want to risk my better multimeter.
Yes do the safety check! Maybe some big capacitors charged to high voltage! Nice video! And even though the meter does not get the cat, I am glad the cat is still there ;)
I found this multimeter to be very accurate. 95% of the time. The other 5% of the time it would show wildly exaggerated readings. Accuracy isn't enough - consistency is necessary of one is to trust a measuring instrument. Consequently I threw mine in the bin, and would not recommend anyone buying one of these.
DioneGoneWild: it appears from your testing that the rotary switch of these "smaller 830B" has much more contact problems than the almost identical switch on the larger/older meters. I mean, they were a bit flaky on the older ones as well, but not that bad. Is there really a difference between them?
I think the chips themselves are light sensitive - so I'd guess that the black resin is just a cheaper way to protect it from damage than encasing it in the full plastic package more common in less budget devices.
In the latest version of dt830d it has a fusible track and no fuse in the pcb board. The fuse is only for the mA range and no fuse track for 10A. So the 10A shunt can burn and melt down if we exeed the 10A
I have a very similar meter bought several (5-10) years ago at Tesco for 99 czech crowns - battery included. I was for a nice weekend in czech republic with some friends and had to check some batteries for our music. I had a cheap multimeter which needed one of this tiny, expensive 12V batteries, but I forgot to switch it off. So I tried to get a new battery but this was not available. Instead I got a whole meter with (9V) battery for about the same price :-) I have it always in the car, just in case I want to test something. You know while camping on festivals sometimes there are problems with cooling, music, car battery and power. Be aware, that the test leads of this meter are "not of the best quality", very thin wire. This I had to replace already.
i’ve been using the same one for more than a year and it’s still working perfectly i love it cause it’s so cheap lol i’ve damaged 2 of them in high voltages and wrong ranges 😂 don’t use it for high voltages (+1kV) and never use the wrong range, other than that it’s perfect 😁
11:02 I heard this, then looked back right as she was walking over the page and thought there was some masterful editing going on where the page would be filled out once she passed over it and I had to double take.
Sorry to tell you but the factory worker wages has risen a lot faster than ours income, so if you still want to buy cheap Chinese stuff, they have to cut down on components cost. This multimeter is still very useful for most of us doing measurements on low voltage PCB's. If you are a professional electrician invest in a $100+ Fluke meter, but if you are working on low voltage components this meter will perform as well at a fraction of the cost. Still your video is informative as it shows the quality degradation of Chinese products.
BTW Eastern Europe with its low wages, higher automation and duty free within EU could easily compete with China. Theyt need to work on shipping cost, as the cheapest shipping for that a multimeter within my country would be 5€. The EU should also been able to ship such product within EU or to China at such low fare.
That's what he WTO World Trade Organization is all about, fair trade, I don't see it, when I can buy an item from China a product for $0.25 delivered when a national post stamp cost $0.6. and if I need to ship it back it will cost me $15, I love to get those items, but where is fair trade.
Sorry but this cheap is more of a hindrance. It will confuse the novice more than help. Did you see how inconsistent it was? The dial you have to fiddle with. How is a new comer supposed to tell what is the correct jiggle? No you don't need a 100 fluke but spend a little more. Plus the first wrong probe or setting and it's melted down anyway. Which doesn't take long with a novice. Better off burning the 3 bucks for heat.
The price should really tell everyone what to expect! You really get a lot for the money but not a very good LOT. PS. I was a little worried when the cat walked in, with those test probes laying on the bench!!
The "830B" meters almost are a canditate for a whole new research subject in itself. It is the study of how to eliminate the most possible number of "unnecessary" components from a circuit board. Of course, if a component is only used occasionally for protecting something or someone, then it isn't really needed. Thus it can be removed. You shouldn't use the meter in this way anyway; you're using it wrong! This usage is outside the meter's design criteria, so do it at your own risk.
I bought one of these years ago for hobby/beginner use, also on eBay. In the USA, Harbor Freight tools often gives them away for free (with coupon) too. My main complaint is the test leads that come with it. The wire in the leads is super thin -- and very dubious for the 10A advertised by the meter. The strain relief on the leads is terrible and I've broken several by just rotating the leads to whatever was convenient for what I was measuring (i.e. regular use). Mine came with a fuse soldered on the board, though I blew it when I shorted something during a current measurement. I replaced the fuse with a fuse holder so I can short-out many future projects! Also, it is common for the multi-meter to produce a current reading, even when the leads aren't connected to anything. I suppose at this point, it is time to buy a real meter :)
Good old memory of the most cheapened "multimeter" around the ancient 7106 chip... The single diode topology is OK for the use, the stated accuracy uses to be 4dig+3% or so, which gives practically 4V room for error on the diode, it is below that. And for the typical 2..3% accuracy grade of these cheepeese meters you don't need any trimpot, the resistors and on chip references use to be accurate enough.
where i live they sell these for less then $2 with a crappy 9v battery and fuse included, some models even has a beeper for continuity tests, and also the PCB design is way better than the thing you .reviewed
I'd just like to say; that the DT830B is made by the same manufacturer, it is the change of revision where they have cheaped it out really bad nowadays... Better off getting the kit version, it's actually "safe" to use!
Wow, nothing inside but air and tumbleweeds-! Every time I see a newer version of these theres less and less components on the board - and less and less board for that matter. We get these free with any purchase at Harbor Freight when its offered, theyre like the door prize at a party that nobody wants. These things are scary dangerous for anything but measuring battery voltage, might be a bit more useful if they still had a continuity tester like they did years ago.
Watch out for the 2 small (very) ball bearings and 2 tiny springs beneath the range selector. The balls need to position correctly to ensure the selector could move freely.
they made it worse, the shunt is now a thin wire, the blue plastic transistor thingy isnt soldered and battery contacts are integrated into the case and they bend and loose contact every time you drop it.
interesting mine seems better than the one in the video mine has a calibration knob and a green rectangular thing i assume its a capacitor and the control knob is using spring and metal ball as the clicking mechanism rather than plastic "spring"
I also have this multimeter, but light green. I want to install a backlight But I think that I will get an auto range multimeter tomorrow (Christmas) And also VOLTCRAFT VC-330, I guess Recently I tested the voltage on a relay without a diode, it showed 1999+V on 250V (max scale) BUT IT DIDN'T BLOW UP!!! NOT EVEN THE FUSE WAS BLOWN 8:00 Mine does the same
6:57 with the subtitles on
HAHAHA!!
OMG IM DYING XD
:DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD
XD
stick it in ......... xD Panebože.......
Always use a multimeter that has a proper cat rating! 😸
Ah, now I get it!
CAT rating = rated by DiodeGoneWild's cat
@@benhetland576 the multimeter was rated and certified by a highly educated CAT.
Meow
If you don't have a CAT on your multimeter you should adopt one :D
I not only have a CAT on my multimeter, but I also have a CAT at home :)
Actually, I have 4 CATs.
I should be fine.
Another great video, thank you! Your lovely CAT1 is right - take HV measurements at mA range but please be careful(!). Also, I love your hand-drawn schematics, you've got a damn talent. All the best and greetings from Poland.
You must be new to the channel . The kitty draws the schematics. That's why they are purrr , pretty!
The question is does this cheap multi-meter measure CAT5/6 cables, or just real CATs? tsk-tsk
The first one of these I had I was checking 240 Volt AC and had the dial 180 degrees wrong way at the ohms setting by mistake. There was a big flash, a loud bang and a new pair of underpants required. But started my intrest in multimeters.
"new pair of underpants required" :D
Recently, DT-830B I purchased came with battery($5).
However, the socket for hFE measurement had all pins were omitted.
After transplanting the pins of IC socket, I was able to measure hFE normally.
Harbor Freight gives these meters away with a coupon found in the newspaper. I got a few and gave one to my friend's kid. Showed him what happens when you touch the leads and how to get it to show 'numbers' when touched to a battery. These are good meters for toddlers. I love watching your videos before going to sleep. There's something about your cadence and tone that I find relaxing. Keep going.
"The other one has no cat". Camera pans to the cat with a disgusted expression🤣
Still waiting for a 1000 V test of analog one
Krystian Wychowanek He done that
Polska?
You can actually overclock these little meters because it uses an RC oscillator, which you can change to change the clock.
This way you can get a much higher refresh rate on the LCD, the accuracy does go down a bit.
How do you do that?
I'm in love with your calculator!!
There are a ton of those. I bought 2 D03047 for 5$ on a big distributor (Farnell). It also includes a continuity beeper (most important thing, works well enough), comes with 2 fused inputs and has even a rubber protection cover. I use them for my MCU projects to measure mostly voltage and they are very light and small so they don't bother me too much. If you need something to quickly check something on a normal max 12V circuit no issue and good value. For good measurement I use the EEV blog Multimeter of course, but I never had any missreadings with them either.
Exactly. Don't knock these el cheapo meters as it works great for checking batteries and continuity which is pretty much all you need for home repairs.
I got one of these a year ago and I was surprised how accurate it was, especially when compared to much more expensive meters.
But I don't expect it to be very durable.
Accuracy is cheap to make those days. But it's not cheap to make it safe and reliable. Fuses, MOV's, PTC's and high voltage resistors are now more expensive than chips :).
A "safety check" maybe stick it in mains while it's in the current range. Or go for a higher energy circuit and really blow it up.
I would REALLY love to see that meter being used in a 750VAC test. Might see some 🔥🔥🔥🤣
We all know, it will not survive this test. But it is OK to check batteries or even check the 230V mains voltage in the home. Of course not in current mode.
No protection fuses/zener diodes... but then again that's all you're gonna get for $3usd. At least they could have included a $0.10 varistor on the input to ground for protection... and let's not even talk about the inadequate current sensing resistors and voltage dividers... it's like having sex without a condom protection... baahaha!
Maybe you didnt knew, but there are powercords with switches so you could plug the probes in, and then switch the power on(or do it like me, using a single outlet with a breaker attachd to it)
Historically several factories have been churning versions of this out for at least 30 years; internally they can be significantly different from each other. It's likely that in the territory where they're made no-one knows or cares who holds the original patents and copyright for it. This example has a much smaller PCB than mine, and of course SMD resistors. One consistent factor is that the test leads are utter crap. When a fuse IS fitted they tend to be glass, which can be swapped out for a ceramic sand filled one if you can get the correct size and rating. No-one can pretend that they are 'safe' when measuring high voltages.
The best DT830B variants are those from the 90's. They use all through hole parts and everything is just better. Not necessarily prettier to the untrained eye but still much better quality. I don't know about the UNI-T brand which also has a DT830B in the menu and it's a little different in the transistor connections. But otherwise probably the best DT830B you can get is the DIY/kit version. That has large through hole resistors, fuse and large 10A resistor too - not too far away from your older version. The downside though is you have to calibrate it yourself so investing in a good voltage is recommended. They're not too expensive though and may come in handy for other things too - so no need to invest in an expensive lab multimeter in order to calibrate it more than good enought for any use you'd sanely use a DT830B for.
The metal strips from the probe connectors are the fuses. They work like the battery fuse in your tesla. The metal strip is designed to melt at a specified current, and this way you don't need a fuse. Look at the left metal strip where it meets the board. It has a notch in it where it will melt.
No, they are not. They would just draw an arc, so current continues to flow uncheck...
The worst thing you can do in electronics is to use test equipment that may not be reliable. I once had a somewhat better but still cheap multimeter.
Testing a circuit with it was giving me readings I did not believe so I got out my better quality meter and confirmed it was wrong. Turned out the 9 volt battery was nearly dead but the meter had no low battery warning indicator. Cheap equipment can cause a lot of frustration as well as danger.
Question for you? When measuring the US Robotics 9v/1A power adapter you said you were measuring "AC voltages", and it was'nt good at them.. But wasn't that 9V DC? Or do you mean, measuring DC voltage that's been converted from AC? Thanks.
It took Australia 4 years to sell this in its largest hardware store. Most stores want 10 bucks, eventually I scored on fro $3.80.
which is to prove:
no reliable and safe measurements and no proper workshop if you have no cat.
thats why I love your channel!
Best review of a multimeter i have ever seen......Love from INDIA
Have the dt830b a friend gave me. I soldered a plug to put a rechargeable NiCd battery that i glued to the back.
Btw mine has a fuse!
Its really barebones but for now i can live with it
Perfect meter for low voltage and current scenario.
My DMT-7, which is basically the same as these two meters, is fused. These meters are perfectly good for low energy applications such as breadboard electronics, but you need a higher end meter for house work or industrial applications.
They work fine for DC circuit testing and can do AC voltage test fine too even if it's not safe. But like most people I only check batteries and fuse so voltage and continuity is all you need for basic home repairs. They're great but $20 more you can get a much better quality. I'm amazing how cheap they can make these.
I like the shunt touching the battery wires inside 🙂 Those death traps make me happy already.
There are many DMM on the makret that do not meet any saftey standards.
I've got about 8 of them. You can get them for free in the US. They sit around waiting for the battery to corrode for a science experiment.
I bought two of those, around $6 each, battery and probes included, from local shop. Same price, same looks, same shop, one actually have fuse inside! And the other one don't have a place on board for it. Don't remember having problems with rotary switch, but that's because they're sold by local re-seller, and probably passed some at least very basic QA.But probes were complete garbage. Wires are held in place by their own copper only, and thus they fall apart in a few hours of use. Soldered alligator clips on them in place of probes, and bought some better-looking ones for $4.Good thing about them is that their price allows to go wild and learn more about measurements by altering them for your own needs.
As of accuracy, well, at least they are consistent with each other.
Also, pcb says "5A' on the 10A input, he-he.
I'vr bought this multimeter several times and in several occasions. I find it cheap & useful for most "normal" applications.
I have the DT-830D with the "CAT1" marked on it, and have struggled alot to add a buzzer for the "short finder", which I know someone did on YT but my version won't accomodate it for unknown reasons,
Do you have any idea?
I use it in my "emergency bag" just for emergency.
Exclamating every end of each sentance like that !!!!
I dont know if i find this hilarous or
I should take you seriously and listen or
Just cryyy from suffering xD
You can not expect much for that money either.
Will be a copy of the original meter.
Love your cat.
I have a similar multimeter - that is used only for batteries - I never notice until today how simple is the circuit and looking this video it just put a smile on my face - how this is cheap lol - I need to say, at least mine has a fuse of 250 ma :p - great video as always !
I see you have a cat there to measure the cat rating---not much good as a meter but makes a great detonator-LOL Beautiful cat, best part of the video.
This exact type of meter has been made almost identically for decades, it literally looks the same as my first meter I got in 2001, only that the circuit board on this one is smaller, crappier and simplified to the bone. The warnings on the back about the fuse are probably there because they use the same exact injection mold for the casings for all variants of the meter. They are OK as basic meters, their weakest point actually being the crappy leads.
I'm in love with your cat!
Meooooooow
The question is does this cheap multi-meter measure CAT5/6 cables, or just real CATs? tsk-tsk
My dog also is in love with cats. Loves to catch them. :)
cat
I am using that multimeter for almost a year, its usuable. When I got it battery cable solder was broken and I had to resolder it. Switch is so bad sometimes it wont work But its usuable as I say. I use it when I dont want to risk my better multimeter.
in fact DC means Direct Current, so DC meter is correct, DC current meter would mean direct current current meter...
You're right, but then DC voltage meter means direct current voltage meter :).
The DT-830B seems to be a popular generic digimultimeter design. I see it everywhere when searching around.
Yes do the safety check! Maybe some big capacitors charged to high voltage! Nice video! And even though the meter does not get the cat, I am glad the cat is still there ;)
They could have skiped the pnp - npn tester and add a BUZZER to check cables! With this add, it would be much more useful.
it's actually LC-Display. The D in LCD already stands for Display
LCD - Liquid Crystal Display
I found this multimeter to be very accurate. 95% of the time. The other 5% of the time it would show wildly exaggerated readings. Accuracy isn't enough - consistency is necessary of one is to trust a measuring instrument. Consequently I threw mine in the bin, and would not recommend anyone buying one of these.
6:57 turn on automated caption x)
Good catch. LoL
DioneGoneWild: it appears from your testing that the rotary switch of these "smaller 830B" has much more contact problems than the almost identical switch on the larger/older meters. I mean, they were a bit flaky on the older ones as well, but not that bad. Is there really a difference between them?
I came for the test and teardown, stayed for your cat. ^^
@Diodegonewild do you know where to add the piezo speaker to get buzzer?
Nice review man, i suggest you can do some reviews for multimeters in the market, there are so many chinese made multimeter nowadays.
why do they black blob DMM chips ? great vid , your electronics genius .
I think the chips themselves are light sensitive - so I'd guess that the black resin is just a cheaper way to protect it from damage than encasing it in the full plastic package more common in less budget devices.
In the latest version of dt830d it has a fusible track and no fuse in the pcb board. The fuse is only for the mA range and no fuse track for 10A. So the 10A shunt can burn and melt down if we exeed the 10A
Great Video, please keep them coming!!
I have a very similar meter bought several (5-10) years ago at Tesco for 99 czech crowns - battery included. I was for a nice weekend in czech republic with some friends and had to check some batteries for our music. I had a cheap multimeter which needed one of this tiny, expensive 12V batteries, but I forgot to switch it off. So I tried to get a new battery but this was not available. Instead I got a whole meter with (9V) battery for about the same price :-)
I have it always in the car, just in case I want to test something. You know while camping on festivals sometimes there are problems with cooling, music, car battery and power.
Be aware, that the test leads of this meter are "not of the best quality", very thin wire. This I had to replace already.
addition: I am quite sure I have the version with the bigger blue resistors and fuse.
i’ve been using the same one for more than a year and it’s still working perfectly i love it cause it’s so cheap lol
i’ve damaged 2 of them in high voltages and wrong ranges 😂
don’t use it for high voltages (+1kV) and never use the wrong range, other than that it’s perfect 😁
My first one blew up
11:02 I heard this, then looked back right as she was walking over the page and thought there was some masterful editing going on where the page would be filled out once she passed over it and I had to double take.
I love your videos and your cat. A greeting from Spain
Sorry to tell you but the factory worker wages has risen a lot faster than ours income, so if you still want to buy cheap Chinese stuff, they have to cut down on components cost. This multimeter is still very useful for most of us doing measurements on low voltage PCB's. If you are a professional electrician invest in a $100+ Fluke meter, but if you are working on low voltage components this meter will perform as well at a fraction of the cost.
Still your video is informative as it shows the quality degradation of Chinese products.
BTW Eastern Europe with its low wages, higher automation and duty free within EU could easily compete with China. Theyt need to work on shipping cost, as the cheapest shipping for that a multimeter within my country would be 5€. The EU should also been able to ship such product within EU or to China at such low fare.
That's what he WTO World Trade Organization is all about, fair trade, I don't see it, when I can buy an item from China a product for $0.25 delivered when a national post stamp cost $0.6. and if I need to ship it back it will cost me $15, I love to get those items, but where is fair trade.
Sorry but this cheap is more of a hindrance. It will confuse the novice more than help. Did you see how inconsistent it was? The dial you have to fiddle with. How is a new comer supposed to tell what is the correct jiggle? No you don't need a 100 fluke but spend a little more. Plus the first wrong probe or setting and it's melted down anyway. Which doesn't take long with a novice. Better off burning the 3 bucks for heat.
Thank you man
You are awesome. Thank you.
0:39 Isn't DC the abbreviation for Direct Current? Why say current once more?
go open a multimeter shop. you are the best at this works
The price should really tell everyone what to expect! You really get a lot for the money but not a very good LOT.
PS. I was a little worried when the cat walked in, with those test probes laying on the bench!!
The "830B" meters almost are a canditate for a whole new research subject in itself. It is the study of how to eliminate the most possible number of "unnecessary" components from a circuit board. Of course, if a component is only used occasionally for protecting something or someone, then it isn't really needed. Thus it can be removed. You shouldn't use the meter in this way anyway; you're using it wrong! This usage is outside the meter's design criteria, so do it at your own risk.
These cheap multimeters are good for hobbyists that does work with low voltage stuff like in 3.3v to 12v stuff.
I bought one of these years ago for hobby/beginner use, also on eBay. In the USA, Harbor Freight tools often gives them away for free (with coupon) too. My main complaint is the test leads that come with it. The wire in the leads is super thin -- and very dubious for the 10A advertised by the meter. The strain relief on the leads is terrible and I've broken several by just rotating the leads to whatever was convenient for what I was measuring (i.e. regular use).
Mine came with a fuse soldered on the board, though I blew it when I shorted something during a current measurement. I replaced the fuse with a fuse holder so I can short-out many future projects! Also, it is common for the multi-meter to produce a current reading, even when the leads aren't connected to anything. I suppose at this point, it is time to buy a real meter :)
Good old memory of the most cheapened "multimeter" around the ancient 7106 chip... The single diode topology is OK for the use, the stated accuracy uses to be 4dig+3% or so, which gives practically 4V room for error on the diode, it is below that.
And for the typical 2..3% accuracy grade of these cheepeese meters you don't need any trimpot, the resistors and on chip references use to be accurate enough.
The cat went to watch electroboom
Lol
where i live they sell these for less then $2 with a crappy 9v battery and fuse included, some models even has a beeper for continuity tests, and also the PCB design is way better than the thing you .reviewed
I'd just like to say; that the DT830B is made by the same manufacturer, it is the change of revision where they have cheaped it out really bad nowadays...
Better off getting the kit version, it's actually "safe" to use!
I have this with me here in India and seems to be very useful.
I made my Chinese DT830B a bit more reliable by putting silicone grease on the contacts of the switch.
great info.
With Precisions Resistors Top Multimeter first Class. I heave this Multimeter 15Year working with Precisions Resistors Include
Wow, nothing inside but air and tumbleweeds-! Every time I see a newer version of these theres less and less components on the board - and less and less board for that matter. We get these free with any purchase at Harbor Freight when its offered, theyre like the door prize at a party that nobody wants. These things are scary dangerous for anything but measuring battery voltage, might be a bit more useful if they still had a continuity tester like they did years ago.
Your cat never meowing!
Definitely needs to be "stress tested"... :P
No, we know it will not survive - quite useless test.
Great job as usual. Thanx
Explosions are ALWAYS a good idea so please HV test it!!
yes good idea to do a high voltage test :-) You know what you are doing.
Czenglish hype!
Nice, thanks for sharing 😀👍
I had the same meter and liked it
I had this meter few years ago and it exploded when I accidentally connected the 10A to mains and exactly what he said happened lol
my dt 830 now has a malfunctioning ammeter.
Useful video 👍
One thin good is that tester is faster than the Klein tools that takes forever to read ac voltages.
It's probably because there's no protection in this.
Hi. You very good ..... thanks for your video.
oh god! I have a multimeter like this. i will use keeping in mind your warnings :)
Sure it has protection, if it goes up in smoke you're only out $3 unless you were holding it.
Watch out for the 2 small (very) ball bearings and 2 tiny springs beneath the range selector. The balls need to position correctly to ensure the selector could move freely.
The one in the video doesn't have that type of ratcheting mechanism it's just a simple plastic "spring"
Thanks for the video =)
Jak to má řešené měření odporu? Jak by si to poradilo s připojhením na napětí?
Pravdě podobně i to měření odporu je přes ten 1M odpor.
My recent one does not have a current shunt but 2 resistors R24 R010 and R25 R100.
they made it worse, the shunt is now a thin wire, the blue plastic transistor thingy isnt soldered and battery contacts are integrated into the case and they bend and loose contact every time you drop it.
interesting mine seems better than the one in the video
mine has a calibration knob
and a green rectangular thing i assume its a capacitor
and the control knob is using spring and metal ball as the clicking mechanism rather than plastic "spring"
@@TimJorden506 Does your have a fuse and the PTC, they are the mmost importhant safety feature missing
@@filenotfound__3871 sadly no :(
@@TimJorden506 Then please dont use it on anything connected to mains voltages.
@@filenotfound__3871 alright thanks
I have cheap $5 Sinmeter DVM. As there is not beeper inside the DVM, is there any way I can hack it to beep for continuity or resister tests?
Using a French power plug and European doorhandles, why are you talking about US Dollars? But anyway, a great review of these items. Well done!
I also have this multimeter, but light green.
I want to install a backlight
But I think that I will get an auto range multimeter tomorrow (Christmas)
And also VOLTCRAFT VC-330, I guess
Recently I tested the voltage on a relay without a diode, it showed 1999+V on 250V (max scale) BUT IT DIDN'T BLOW UP!!!
NOT EVEN THE FUSE WAS BLOWN
8:00 Mine does the same
Did you really thought some protection for 3$ :-)
I Agree with RikerRC greetings from Germany
I connected accidentally ohms to 220v AC and now i have all false readings.Can this be repaired.
these are great in the garage because I'm too lazy to go upstairs to get my better meter
Please make teardown of cheap e-bay FM radio