*This free video took WEEKS to make!* If you’d like to support Paul’s efforts, links below: 👑Get your PDF clamp meter tutorial here: tinyurl.com/PDF-Clamp-Meter 📽Watch ad-free here: www.patreon.com/theengineeringmindset
I only accept useful and relevant sponsorsors. I turn down all games, crypto, fashion, makeup, trading, shaving clubs etc etc despite high offers on a weekly basis.
When I was starting out, I was told to check to ensure the clamp meter I was going to buy had both the AC and DC current modes. Glad I did. Had to return the first one as I forgot the advice I was given. The meter I bought more than 12 years ago still serves me very well.
Back in the day when I was a young ish spark there was no such thing as a DC clamp meter ( only some crappy thing from snap on for cars. Can’t remember when DC meters came out mid to late 90’s ? These cost about ten times the price of an AC meter ( probably a weeks wage) now we buy them at throwaway money. Sooner or later we all accedently smoked an old analogue AVO by forgetting it was left on ohms, if you were lucky it just popped the fuse, if not you were looking at a couple of days wage for a new one 😳
So cool to review clamp-on meters again. My first college co-op job in the late 60’s was to repair these and I learned so much. Back then, nearly all meters were made in USA and analog.
I learnt a lot from this - particularly the use of hall effect sensors for DC current sensing!! That's incredibly cool - however, I do have a couple of things to mention: - The directions for current flow used with the clamp-type DC multimeters is called conventional current (TEM obviously know this and the video is correct, but just some added detail). Technically speaking, current flows from negative to positive (electron flow) but that's just confusing and unnecessary for most people - Compounding from the previous point, connecting the neutral/negative first is almost always a good idea, but it won't save you. Car chassis are tied to battery negative, so you should always connect negative first because it can't short against the chassis whereas connecting the positive first means your circuit could short against the chassis. The same idea mostly applies with household circuitry - neutral and ground are tied together, so _theoretically_ you remain in phase with any current if you ground yourself accidentally. However, shorting to literal "ground" (i.e. touching grass) will hurt just as much as putting hot to the same location.
I think you missed something in your point about not always connecting the negative/neutral first. You didn't give an example of when it's appropriate to connect to positive first. You mentioned car batteries, so I think you may have intended to mention that when installing a car battery, you should always attach the positive terminal first (unless you have a weird British car with a positive ground frame). The reason you do this is, once the positive terminal is installed, accidently touching the negative terminal to any metal part of the car (for example, by dropping a wrench in a way that touches the negative terminal and the frame of the car) completes the circuit as normal with all the car's protection circuits in the loop, and 12 volts is so low there is almost no risk of shock if you accidently complete the circuit with your body. If you install the negative terminal first, then if you accidently touch the positive terminal of the battery to any metal part of the car besides the positive cable, you will short the battery, and it will try to dump its full rated current of 600+ amps through what ever you touched it to and the negative cable. Because the frame is ground and directly connected to the negative of the battery, there is no current protection to save you from this mistake. Another example of how this could become dangerous is if, after installing the negative terminal of the battery, you go to install the positive terminal, and while tightening the positive cable, your wrench or tool contacts the frame at the same time, you will short the battery. For the same reasons as above, when removing a car battery, you should always disconnect the negative terminal first, or if you're just disconnecting the battery to do work on the electrical system, the negative terminal is the one you should disconnect.
@@jsax01001010these are certainly very important safety tips when working on automotive electrical systems. Well said Worth noting that American cars made before 1955, and British and Asian cars, as well as some motorcycles and farm tractors from before the very early 1970s, could have either a positive or negative ground frame. Anything made within the last 55 years, can be presumed to be negative ground. But if you're working on a classic car or tractor that has a positive ground system, you simply follow the opposite procedure, that is, you should remove the positive cable first and reconnect it last. If you're working on old cars or tractors and aren't sure of what ground system was used, you can find out by locating the cable bolted to the chassis and noting which terminal of the battery it's connected to, assuming of course a battery was installed when you got there.
Absolutely correct and detailed video for people who is willing to listen. BUT. For those who just want to know how to stick your probe to something and get it "fixed" "quickly", please CLOSE the video and DO NOT TOUCH ELECTRICITY! Watch the whole video first if you want to "play" with live electricity! You might not only playing with YOUR life, but others as well, if you perform dodgy repairs! Be warned. Thanks for the video!
Its also so important to be qualified and competent FOR THE WORK YOU ARE PERFORMING. I have an electrical engineering education and experience in electronics technician work, but I am not an electrician. I am highly knowledgeable in loads of topics about electricity, but I still call the electricians in if I'm needing something done on the panel. If the power is off, working with low voltage, working after the breaker, outside of the wall, I am perfectly competent and qualified. But I am NOT an electrician. They shouldn't do my job, and I shouldn't do theirs.
Wow. Very comprehensive explanation. Not sure how this came up in my suggested viewing as I’m basically a guy who took electronics in high school some 40+ yrs ago. I do have a new CL390 and this is very helpful. Thx.
that depends on the thermocouple ig? His looks like it has the wires exposed, which would corrode (galvanic corrosion), especially over time But they usually have some cap afaik, either some glass, metal or plastic, which can make them safe to dip (it should say that somewhere on the packaging)
Of course he did. I found it on my startpage. I sort of live in simbiosis with the algorithm. It shows me videos that really fit in with what I'm interested in at the moment. I rely on it to get new content. By the way! Finally!!! I have been waiting for this video for a long time. It's filling a big gap in my journey of learning to understand what's going on in electronics land. I started my journey in electronics land on this channel. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 Just yesterday it happens to be that I realised, that I feel comfortable now; being able to follow what is shown in all these videos. Finally. By today I declare myself a well enough educated citizen of electronics land. Following the paths ahead of me. With a much better insight and a relaxed mind. It feels like it took me three years. I'm not sure about that. Will look that up some time. So thank you for being part of it and giving me the opportunity to make my first steps. You guys are really good educaters and the channel also evolved really good. Thank you for being there. Kurt
Dorsal fins and Cucamonga. By the way, Electronics Land just put in a new vacuum tube circuit coaster. Get shot out of a cathode at the speed of light and see if you get to travel all the way to the speaker by jumping the 'Cap Gap' and win a prize (or just lolly gag back to the power supply transformer).
My fluke is my companion, savior, and a money maker. Its accurate, safe, reliable... And most importantly protects me from myself when human errors occur, only to blame on none other than myself. 😅
dunno 'bout all that butt I will tell ya that the Fluke the company I worked for back in 84 as a field technician, is Still going strong. 😅 Wanna good laugh? Go look up the price for a new 378 fc. You'll appreciate it all the more.
I enjoy this channel, really need refreshers, and more learning and these videos really do help with expanding my knowledge, some things I get lost at, like with 3 phase power, but at least I can go back and watch it again. Thank you
I know this is an ad, but as an ordinary electrician fluke is all you really see. Even among instrument techs (thet calibrate sensors, sensors which control valves), the 789 is the preferred choice.
I use Klein and fluke meters. However, when I had to troubleshoot a non-working air conditioning compressor, I used a Klein CL800 (I rotate meters yearly for calibration purposes only). I could not find why the compressor was not working, but the fuses were popping. Another guy comes in with his fluke, sets it to continuity (same as me), and saw that the compressor was grounded. The Klein could not find it. My diagnosis was incorrect, and kept the unit down an extra month because we had to replace both compressors, not just the one. In short, buy fluke. If it’s just a hobby, buy a cheaper fluke. I’m currently in the process of replacing my Klein meters, and will pass them down to my son when he starts learning about the trades.
@@modorangeorge4991Yep, sponsored marketing taken a little too seriously when someone really believes you need a certain brand to find a ground continuity 😂
When I was in college back in 99, the Fluke rep came to visit us. A few of my classmates bought a meter (model 88? 98?) but I couldn't afford their outrageously priced stuff. I think our instructor even told us to think really hard before buying one 😜I got out of that industry not long after anyway.
my favourite meter is an ancient Fluke10. a bit low on features by modern standards, but it just works and it's yearly calibration never results in any adjustment
You definitely can. I use my DMM (MTP make), when working on fire alarm systems and would use the clamp for the DC currents that are in the system. Just make sure your meter is set to the proper mode.
20:30 - A good way of measure resistance on an energized circuit is indirectly through calculation, for example, put a load and measure current value and current drop value, for example, a load put on outlet give a current of 10 amps, and the voltage drop is 4v between open circuit and closed circuit, so calculate, U/I = R, so 4 / 10 = 0.4 Ohms or 400 miliOhms.
I have about a dozen multi meters - one is a real spendy Fluke - the others stay chucked in a drawer of the toolbox. It is an un-aggravating tool to use, it just works.
very good information, im learning and want to be more electricity smart, no electrician schooling and My understanding has grown no expert but definintly learned something
I don't know if its a Fluke thing, but we were taught in RV A/C class that multimeter have filters in place to protect them from surges such as what would come from a charged capacitor. As such it was suggested to have a modest pair of insulated pliers to do just that. Our instructor had the misfortune of being "nipped" by a capacitor after he thought his multimeter had discharged it, when in fact, it didn't.
I still have mine and will use them periodically. I find my digital meter (with the clamp), makes it much easier when measuring current as I don't have to disconnect any wires for this. Yup, I confess I'm a tad lazy.😏
I remember trying to measure dc current in an appliance wire using a clamp meter clamped over both of the conductors. It was my first time using it despite seeing it in action many times, so it took me some time to figure out why it didn't work...
Yes a DMM energies the circuit for continuity and resistance checks, but only the voltage of the onboard battery so it's only a few volts (3v to 9v depending on batteries used) and wouldn't damage components.
Typically its very little current (maybe a miliamp). I've never seen it, but I have heard rumors of possibly damaging specialty equipment. Honestly if you work in a field where a miliamp can damage equipment you should know better.
Modern multimeters send a constant current and measure the voltage drop. It's usually not an issue. Old curve tracers and Huntrons were high enough current to damage new sensitive electronics, but modern-ish multimeters are good enough for all but super specialty applications. And like the other commenter said, if that applies to you, you will probably know, and by nature of getting that advanced job, you will probably know enough about electronics to mitigate.
Very good video that covers the basics. Very annoying to me that some selector dials don't have a white or black dot indicating pointer position. Easy to have the wrong function selected by accident, such as on Ohms when measuring voltage. I end up marking the selector arrow with paint, white out, or marker pen.
You could also connect clamp meters in series with other clamp meters or multimeters just like how you would connect batteries in series to combine their voltages. This combines the voltages of the diode test functions so that you could test LEDs that you otherwise wouldn't be able to test with a single clamp meter or multimeter. Or you could connect a multimeter or a clamp meter in series with any battery to achieve the same results. If the battery's voltage exceeds the LED's required voltage, it will not fry the LED if it (the battery) is connected in series with a clamp or multimeter.
Are you doing install type work? Repair at the board/component level? For general use, a 115 is great, for more detailed electronics repair, something in the 180 range might be best for you. 187 maybe? I'm forgetting that lineup. With audio, you might want an oscilloscope, which is a whole other can of worms.
Great video but 2 quick questions: 1) If a Meter has a Min/Max function, is a different option still needed to measure InRush current? 2) If an Amp / Current function is selectable on a Clamp meter does that means readings could be captured via Clamps OR Probes? In other words, if a Clamp meter has a selection for AC Current and Voltage and a different selection for DC Current and Voltage, then it automatic that the Clamp can perform all 4 functions?
Thank you, glad you enjoyed. The min/max will not capture the inrush, it will capture some of it but it won't be the full wave. The probes shouldn't be used and should be disconnected for current readings. I haven't seen one that can do both, they might exist, probably it needs a separate function to work.
In the ad about fluke you said a calmp meter can measure voltage through the clamp. Between which two points does it measure the voltage? I don't get this.
It isn't a great measurement because it doesn't have a solid reference point, but it measures relative to itself, in a time average. If you have a 120v line, you see it going up and down, call the average zero, and see what the amplitude is. Don't rely on this reading, use your brain and investigate further with other methods of a reading doesn't make sense.
If I touch neutral and I am grounded I would have a shock, right? I mean in the case that current flows through the neutral anyway because I have another load at the same circuit..
In theory, no shock. Because you are at the same voltage level at the neutral, the neutral is physically grounded to the earth. The live/hot wire is a much higher voltage so it will give you a shock. Notice how birds can land on a 200kV power line and be completely fine, but it they put one leg on the wire and one on the grounded plyon.....boom. If two live/hot wires of the same voltage and same phase difference touch, no current flows. However, if you are not properly grounded or there's an electrical fault/short and you touch the neutral, then you will get a shock so you shouldn't try it.
10:00 is somewhat ironic, it's a DC motor that gets called an alternator(which by definition outputs AC) but since car alternators have built in diode packs their output is DC similar to the motor used in the example, honestly that's a very confusing situation all around.
It's strange hearing a British guy call live 'hot' and demonstrate on an american outlet but im guessing its what Fluke wanted. That Fluke meter is really smart but for £600 I don't think I could convice my boss to get me one.
14:00 Ik why 240VAC was used here but technically the UK did change it's mains voltage to 230VAC to match the rest of europe...and I just looked it up and apparently that change was in 2002???? I thought it was far more recent
It's a mistake. Should be "A" not "V". Graphics were taken from a previous video to save time, forgot to change the unit. Classic editing at 2AM copy paste mistake.
You would probably blow a few more minds if you had covered the Fluke 365 with both AC & DC Current with a 1m interconnecting cable. This avoids having to fit the meter into small spaces. ATTENTION: DC Current means automotive troubleshooting and Solar Collector & Battery Stack checking....
I’d like to ask everyone’s opinion on what OL means on these meters. My research has shown it to indicate Over Load or Over limit. I’ve had this debate with other electronics techs. Most seem to agree with it meaning Open Loop. I respectfully disagree. I have a Fluke 117 and it can measure up to 60 Mohms, if I were to test a higher value resistance would I see OL? Clearly that would not be an open loop. I haven’t tested out my theory. What are your thoughts?
One article on the Fluke website states "If the measurement is higher than the set range, the multimeter will display OL (overload). The most accurate measurement is obtained at the lowest possible range setting without overloading the multimeter." I tend to use, and probably did in this video, OL to mean open loop for continuity and Outside limits for resistance. It's not official terminology (according to their article) but I find it easier to visualise. www.fluke.com/en-gb/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/accuracy-precision
At the end of the day, OL is just what they programmed into it when the resistance/voltage/whatever is too high for the range. We can call it open loop or over load or whatever, but it's just some LCD segments turned on to indicate a thing.
*This free video took WEEKS to make!* If you’d like to support Paul’s efforts, links below:
👑Get your PDF clamp meter tutorial here: tinyurl.com/PDF-Clamp-Meter
📽Watch ad-free here: www.patreon.com/theengineeringmindset
Great well researched video 👍
0:12 😂😂😂 Electric shock
I think this may be the first time I saw Fluke as a sponsor.
Yeah I've never seen that either
They dont need to sponsor. Everybody in any somewhat related field knows its fluke or its trash.
@@dannythompson1948I only buy fluke. I own five flukes 😌
@@dannythompson1948 Really? Fluke is good but isn't the only good brand. Have you ever even heard of Brymen or Fieldpiece?
Same. This guy got the hook up for sure.
finally real sponsor. instead of other useless services and products you only find in yt
I only accept useful and relevant sponsorsors. I turn down all games, crypto, fashion, makeup, trading, shaving clubs etc etc despite high offers on a weekly basis.
Gaymes are uselful@@EngineeringMindset
@@EngineeringMindset respect 😎
@@2-BIT_OfficialGameDEV +1
@@EngineeringMindset
thank you that not all are bad bloggers. but if you took it apart and showed what’s inside it would be absolutely wonderful
Wow you really blew my mind by showing me a DC current and then explaining why the AC-only meter was not measuring any current.
When I was starting out, I was told to check to ensure the clamp meter I was going to buy had both the AC and DC current modes. Glad I did. Had to return the first one as I forgot the advice I was given. The meter I bought more than 12 years ago still serves me very well.
Need me one of those new flukes I'm due an upgrade.
Back in the day when I was a young ish spark there was no such thing as a DC clamp meter ( only some crappy thing from snap on for cars. Can’t remember when DC meters came out mid to late 90’s ? These cost about ten times the price of an AC meter ( probably a weeks wage) now we buy them at throwaway money. Sooner or later we all accedently smoked an old analogue AVO by forgetting it was left on ohms, if you were lucky it just popped the fuse, if not you were looking at a couple of days wage for a new one 😳
So cool to review clamp-on meters again. My first college co-op job in the late 60’s was to repair these and I learned so much. Back then, nearly all meters were made in USA and analog.
I learnt a lot from this - particularly the use of hall effect sensors for DC current sensing!! That's incredibly cool - however, I do have a couple of things to mention:
- The directions for current flow used with the clamp-type DC multimeters is called conventional current (TEM obviously know this and the video is correct, but just some added detail). Technically speaking, current flows from negative to positive (electron flow) but that's just confusing and unnecessary for most people
- Compounding from the previous point, connecting the neutral/negative first is almost always a good idea, but it won't save you. Car chassis are tied to battery negative, so you should always connect negative first because it can't short against the chassis whereas connecting the positive first means your circuit could short against the chassis. The same idea mostly applies with household circuitry - neutral and ground are tied together, so _theoretically_ you remain in phase with any current if you ground yourself accidentally. However, shorting to literal "ground" (i.e. touching grass) will hurt just as much as putting hot to the same location.
I think you missed something in your point about not always connecting the negative/neutral first. You didn't give an example of when it's appropriate to connect to positive first. You mentioned car batteries, so I think you may have intended to mention that when installing a car battery, you should always attach the positive terminal first (unless you have a weird British car with a positive ground frame).
The reason you do this is, once the positive terminal is installed, accidently touching the negative terminal to any metal part of the car (for example, by dropping a wrench in a way that touches the negative terminal and the frame of the car) completes the circuit as normal with all the car's protection circuits in the loop, and 12 volts is so low there is almost no risk of shock if you accidently complete the circuit with your body.
If you install the negative terminal first, then if you accidently touch the positive terminal of the battery to any metal part of the car besides the positive cable, you will short the battery, and it will try to dump its full rated current of 600+ amps through what ever you touched it to and the negative cable. Because the frame is ground and directly connected to the negative of the battery, there is no current protection to save you from this mistake.
Another example of how this could become dangerous is if, after installing the negative terminal of the battery, you go to install the positive terminal, and while tightening the positive cable, your wrench or tool contacts the frame at the same time, you will short the battery.
For the same reasons as above, when removing a car battery, you should always disconnect the negative terminal first, or if you're just disconnecting the battery to do work on the electrical system, the negative terminal is the one you should disconnect.
@@jsax01001010these are certainly very important safety tips when working on automotive electrical systems. Well said
Worth noting that American cars made before 1955, and British and Asian cars, as well as some motorcycles and farm tractors from before the very early 1970s, could have either a positive or negative ground frame. Anything made within the last 55 years, can be presumed to be negative ground.
But if you're working on a classic car or tractor that has a positive ground system, you simply follow the opposite procedure, that is, you should remove the positive cable first and reconnect it last.
If you're working on old cars or tractors and aren't sure of what ground system was used, you can find out by locating the cable bolted to the chassis and noting which terminal of the battery it's connected to, assuming of course a battery was installed when you got there.
Absolutely correct and detailed video for people who is willing to listen. BUT. For those who just want to know how to stick your probe to something and get it "fixed" "quickly", please CLOSE the video and DO NOT TOUCH ELECTRICITY! Watch the whole video first if you want to "play" with live electricity! You might not only playing with YOUR life, but others as well, if you perform dodgy repairs! Be warned.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for all you do informing techs. I swear your breakdowns and narrations are more thorough and easy to understand than most trade schools. ❤
I thought I was a pro now I feel like a newb ❤ thank you for sharing your info very much!
I like how you said "qualified and competent"😄
I'm trained and competent (not qualified) and have had so-called professionals reported to the ombudsman successfully a few times.
Its also so important to be qualified and competent FOR THE WORK YOU ARE PERFORMING.
I have an electrical engineering education and experience in electronics technician work, but I am not an electrician. I am highly knowledgeable in loads of topics about electricity, but I still call the electricians in if I'm needing something done on the panel.
If the power is off, working with low voltage, working after the breaker, outside of the wall, I am perfectly competent and qualified. But I am NOT an electrician. They shouldn't do my job, and I shouldn't do theirs.
Wow. Very comprehensive explanation. Not sure how this came up in my suggested viewing as I’m basically a guy who took electronics in high school some 40+ yrs ago.
I do have a new CL390 and this is very helpful. Thx.
Since I've just bought a Fluke 325 this was the perfect video. I've also bought the pdf. Thank you for your work!
Absolutely great video, it is insane how much I learned for your channel. Thank you Paul for all your work!
Great to hear!
I submerged my k thermocouple all the time in water. Why is it said don’t do that? Works great for me. Most excellent video!
that depends on the thermocouple ig?
His looks like it has the wires exposed, which would corrode (galvanic corrosion), especially over time
But they usually have some cap afaik, either some glass, metal or plastic, which can make them safe to dip (it should say that somewhere on the packaging)
Of course he did. I found it on my startpage.
I sort of live in simbiosis with the algorithm. It shows me videos that really fit in with what I'm interested in at the moment.
I rely on it to get new content.
By the way!
Finally!!! I have been waiting for this video for a long time. It's filling a big gap in my journey of learning to understand what's going on in electronics land.
I started my journey in electronics land on this channel. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Just yesterday it happens to be that I realised, that I feel comfortable now; being able to follow what is shown in all these videos. Finally.
By today I declare myself a well enough educated citizen of electronics land. Following the paths ahead of me. With a much better insight and a relaxed mind.
It feels like it took me three years. I'm not sure about that. Will look that up some time.
So thank you for being part of it and giving me the opportunity to make my first steps. You guys are really good educaters and the channel also evolved really good.
Thank you for being there.
Kurt
Dorsal fins and Cucamonga. By the way, Electronics Land just put in a new vacuum tube circuit coaster. Get shot out of a cathode at the speed of light and see if you get to travel all the way to the speaker by jumping the 'Cap Gap' and win a prize (or just lolly gag back to the power supply transformer).
Very comprehensive. You have taken a long time to make this video thank you
My fluke is my companion, savior, and a money maker. Its accurate, safe, reliable... And most importantly protects me from myself when human errors occur, only to blame on none other than myself. 😅
What is the model?
@@mdinjamulhaquesardar mine is 378
@@mdinjamulhaquesardar 1587 FC. I'm an HVAC technician, this meter is perfectly suited for my line of work.
dunno 'bout all that butt I will tell ya that the Fluke the company I worked for back in 84 as a field technician, is Still going strong. 😅
Wanna good laugh? Go look up the price for a new 378 fc.
You'll appreciate it all the more.
I enjoy this channel, really need refreshers, and more learning and these videos really do help with expanding my knowledge, some things I get lost at, like with 3 phase power, but at least I can go back and watch it again. Thank you
I know this is an ad, but as an ordinary electrician fluke is all you really see. Even among instrument techs (thet calibrate sensors, sensors which control valves), the 789 is the preferred choice.
Can't wait to give a shot of clamp meter fluke. Thank you for my request for a video of clamp meter. ❤
You lucky dog free fluke meters! Your living my dream
I use Klein and fluke meters. However, when I had to troubleshoot a non-working air conditioning compressor, I used a Klein CL800 (I rotate meters yearly for calibration purposes only). I could not find why the compressor was not working, but the fuses were popping. Another guy comes in with his fluke, sets it to continuity (same as me), and saw that the compressor was grounded. The Klein could not find it. My diagnosis was incorrect, and kept the unit down an extra month because we had to replace both compressors, not just the one.
In short, buy fluke. If it’s just a hobby, buy a cheaper fluke. I’m currently in the process of replacing my Klein meters, and will pass them down to my son when he starts learning about the trades.
I will take your advice.
Certainly not the meter was the problem there.
@@modorangeorge4991Yep, sponsored marketing taken a little too seriously when someone really believes you need a certain brand to find a ground continuity 😂
why would u hobble them with a piece of junk?
I've had the same Fluke meter since 1984
Thanks!
Thank you!
I too have metravi clamp meter ,but after your video I know all the functions and tricks
Thank you. 😊
Excellent video. Very clear and complete explanations !
When I was in college back in 99, the Fluke rep came to visit us. A few of my classmates bought a meter (model 88? 98?) but I couldn't afford their outrageously priced stuff. I think our instructor even told us to think really hard before buying one 😜I got out of that industry not long after anyway.
my favourite meter is an ancient Fluke10. a bit low on features by modern standards, but it just works and it's yearly calibration never results in any adjustment
I didn’t know that you could do dc with a clamp. So was good to learn
It's literally on the meter.
You definitely can. I use my DMM (MTP make), when working on fire alarm systems and would use the clamp for the DC currents that are in the system. Just make sure your meter is set to the proper mode.
20:30 - A good way of measure resistance on an energized circuit is indirectly through calculation, for example, put a load and measure current value and current drop value, for example, a load put on outlet give a current of 10 amps, and the voltage drop is 4v between open circuit and closed circuit, so calculate, U/I = R, so 4 / 10 = 0.4 Ohms or 400 miliOhms.
Your videos are always top notch
This was great, thank you! Another video on these same topics for 3 phase electric systems would be awesome 🤩
3 Phase is covered in this video, but our next video is on 3 phase systems, I'll tag you
I have about a dozen multi meters - one is a real spendy Fluke - the others stay chucked in a drawer of the toolbox. It is an un-aggravating tool to use, it just works.
very good information, im learning and want to be more electricity smart, no electrician schooling and My understanding has grown no expert but definintly learned something
I don't know if its a Fluke thing, but we were taught in RV A/C class that multimeter have filters in place to protect them from surges such as what would come from a charged capacitor. As such it was suggested to have a modest pair of insulated pliers to do just that. Our instructor had the misfortune of being "nipped" by a capacitor after he thought his multimeter had discharged it, when in fact, it didn't.
Very helpful and detailed. Amazing vid!
I get along just fine with my analog meters
I still have mine and will use them periodically. I find my digital meter (with the clamp), makes it much easier when measuring current as I don't have to disconnect any wires for this.
Yup, I confess I'm a tad lazy.😏
You're absolutly great
I remember trying to measure dc current in an appliance wire using a clamp meter clamped over both of the conductors. It was my first time using it despite seeing it in action many times, so it took me some time to figure out why it didn't work...
Fluke made a good choice.
TY for the video but I Wasn't ready for this much information, now I'm floating..
Someone ground him!
Thanks. The video helped me understand multimeters better. I usually use analog meters so can you elaborate on it?
Can DC voltage be tested with the clamp or just current?
Yes, please see the section on DC voltage
I don't need a 378FC, but I want a 378FC, but I can't afford a 378FC.
Honestly dont buy it. It's too nice i dont use mine lol
How does measuring resistance work? Does it energize the probes with certain voltage? Is it enough to fry sensitive components?
Yes a DMM energies the circuit for continuity and resistance checks, but only the voltage of the onboard battery so it's only a few volts (3v to 9v depending on batteries used) and wouldn't damage components.
Typically its very little current (maybe a miliamp). I've never seen it, but I have heard rumors of possibly damaging specialty equipment.
Honestly if you work in a field where a miliamp can damage equipment you should know better.
Modern multimeters send a constant current and measure the voltage drop.
It's usually not an issue. Old curve tracers and Huntrons were high enough current to damage new sensitive electronics, but modern-ish multimeters are good enough for all but super specialty applications. And like the other commenter said, if that applies to you, you will probably know, and by nature of getting that advanced job, you will probably know enough about electronics to mitigate.
Very good video that covers the basics. Very annoying to me that some selector dials don't have a white or black dot indicating pointer position. Easy to have the wrong function selected by accident, such as on Ohms when measuring voltage. I end up marking the selector arrow with paint, white out, or marker pen.
Damn those fluke meters are amazing
Awesome introduction 👍 Love Flukes.
can you recommend on a comprehensive online course / book of electricity and electronics mainly about fixing circuit boards?
Excellent video! 👏👍
I want that fluke meter even though I know I really don't need it. That is really cool.
Do the meter measure AC/DC BOTH have ct or they have only hall sensor?
You could also connect clamp meters in series with other clamp meters or multimeters just like how you would connect batteries in series to combine their voltages. This combines the voltages of the diode test functions so that you could test LEDs that you otherwise wouldn't be able to test with a single clamp meter or multimeter. Or you could connect a multimeter or a clamp meter in series with any battery to achieve the same results. If the battery's voltage exceeds the LED's required voltage, it will not fry the LED if it (the battery) is connected in series with a clamp or multimeter.
The line splitter linked in the description is for a US plug. Is there a link for a UK one?
I have seen them before, but I don't remember where. Keep your eye out for them, and buy it the first time you see it.
Hi just need some video for , which DMM is best to use for Audio Video products servicing..
Are you doing install type work? Repair at the board/component level?
For general use, a 115 is great, for more detailed electronics repair, something in the 180 range might be best for you. 187 maybe? I'm forgetting that lineup.
With audio, you might want an oscilloscope, which is a whole other can of worms.
Great video but 2 quick questions:
1) If a Meter has a Min/Max function, is a different option still needed to measure InRush current?
2) If an Amp / Current function is selectable on a Clamp meter does that means readings could be captured via Clamps OR Probes? In other words, if a Clamp meter has a selection for AC Current and Voltage and a different selection for DC Current and Voltage, then it automatic that the Clamp can perform all 4 functions?
Thank you, glad you enjoyed. The min/max will not capture the inrush, it will capture some of it but it won't be the full wave.
The probes shouldn't be used and should be disconnected for current readings. I haven't seen one that can do both, they might exist, probably it needs a separate function to work.
Excellent presentation
Thanks for this video ❤❤❤
In the ad about fluke you said a calmp meter can measure voltage through the clamp. Between which two points does it measure the voltage? I don't get this.
It isn't a great measurement because it doesn't have a solid reference point, but it measures relative to itself, in a time average. If you have a 120v line, you see it going up and down, call the average zero, and see what the amplitude is.
Don't rely on this reading, use your brain and investigate further with other methods of a reading doesn't make sense.
You connect the common port on the meter to ground using the black cable and clip before you use the clamp to measure voltage.
Thank you so much 🔌
If I touch neutral and I am grounded I would have a shock, right? I mean in the case that current flows through the neutral anyway because I have another load at the same circuit..
In theory, no shock. Because you are at the same voltage level at the neutral, the neutral is physically grounded to the earth. The live/hot wire is a much higher voltage so it will give you a shock. Notice how birds can land on a 200kV power line and be completely fine, but it they put one leg on the wire and one on the grounded plyon.....boom. If two live/hot wires of the same voltage and same phase difference touch, no current flows. However, if you are not properly grounded or there's an electrical fault/short and you touch the neutral, then you will get a shock so you shouldn't try it.
I love these videos!!
Loving this video! Good job
Gracias x los detalles, saludos desde Chile
And somehow I watched this for fun...
Very informative though.
How does it caculate both voltage and current from the clamp?
what happens to a clamp meter when testing current with the clamp and the probes are connected?
Thank you
As a guy with klein meters, that i do love...i wish i had the flukes
Good video - thanks
Thank you!
I love you all vedios
10:34 wrong units... measure curent and display V ??
10:00 is somewhat ironic, it's a DC motor that gets called an alternator(which by definition outputs AC) but since car alternators have built in diode packs their output is DC similar to the motor used in the example, honestly that's a very confusing situation all around.
Can you please make a video on “Whats is Impedance,Resistance and Reactance” and whats the difference between them it will help me alot
In essence, resistance and reactance are specific types of opposition to current, while impedance is the overall opposition combining both.
Some clamps meters has PICK and INRUSH current features, together or only one...what is difference, can you made one episode for that?
How small amp can it detect?
Nice and valuable video. Btw it scared me at 11:48 ;-) Greetings!
What product is your Tablet/Ebook reader?
I believe an alternator makes AC current hence its name. It is converted to dc by a rectifier. Unlike a generator that makes Dc
Thank you upload a new video I was waiting
Can u explain how SD cards storage information?
21:27 Capacitors
It's strange hearing a British guy call live 'hot' and demonstrate on an american outlet but im guessing its what Fluke wanted. That Fluke meter is really smart but for £600 I don't think I could convice my boss to get me one.
14:00 Ik why 240VAC was used here but technically the UK did change it's mains voltage to 230VAC to match the rest of europe...and I just looked it up and apparently that change was in 2002???? I thought it was far more recent
awesome video thank you
My fluke 319 not working not measuring amps ac and dc both plz give me any solution
can you teach me how to measure wire using ohms
Greetings: 12:00 True. Also RMS and average R not mathematically the same.
In some rare instances a analog meter is needed so always have a cheap one handy.
Thanks again
Beautiful ˋ Clasś´ on multimeter
Use……..!
Sir please make a complete video on EMI & RFI Filters
I have a 387
True rms clamp meter
When i switch to continuity and i check ac voltage
It’s open loop
It’s show a resistance and beep
Am i dumb or are they measuring current in Volts at 10:37 and 10:47 ?
It's a mistake. Should be "A" not "V". Graphics were taken from a previous video to save time, forgot to change the unit. Classic editing at 2AM copy paste mistake.
@@EngineeringMindset No worries, love your videos.
If you get the correct reading, its a Fluke!
Can you make video' for three phase motor connections convert to single phase connections how
I noticed on all my devices that NCV goes off when you bump the meter mechanically. Why is that?
You would probably blow a few more minds if you had covered the Fluke 365 with both AC & DC Current with a 1m interconnecting cable. This avoids having to fit the meter into small spaces. ATTENTION: DC Current means automotive troubleshooting and Solar Collector & Battery Stack checking....
10:35 hmmm yes current is measured in Volts
Yeah, I also reacted to that flaw. I was surprised that this happened.
Field piece has left the chat.
I’d like to ask everyone’s opinion on what OL means on these meters. My research has shown it to indicate Over Load or Over limit. I’ve had this debate with other electronics techs. Most seem to agree with it meaning Open Loop. I respectfully disagree. I have a Fluke 117 and it can measure up to 60 Mohms, if I were to test a higher value resistance would I see OL? Clearly that would not be an open loop. I haven’t tested out my theory. What are your thoughts?
One article on the Fluke website states "If the measurement is higher than the set range, the multimeter will display OL (overload). The most accurate measurement is obtained at the lowest possible range setting without overloading the multimeter." I tend to use, and probably did in this video, OL to mean open loop for continuity and Outside limits for resistance. It's not official terminology (according to their article) but I find it easier to visualise.
www.fluke.com/en-gb/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/accuracy-precision
At the end of the day, OL is just what they programmed into it when the resistance/voltage/whatever is too high for the range. We can call it open loop or over load or whatever, but it's just some LCD segments turned on to indicate a thing.